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Another project on my list: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bza7k0eLG5U Table saw router wing, which would be awesome after I get my outfeed table complete. I just need to determine how it would attach to my Steel City TS. The end of that video he pulls out a fence attachment for the router that looks hella cool.
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Feb 28, 2020 15:14
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I keep floating the idea of a router wing but the table saw is lower than I'd like for a router table. It would need to be about 3-4 inches higher to comfortably (and safely) use.
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Feb 28, 2020 16:20
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JEEVES420 posted:I keep floating the idea of a router wing but the table saw is lower than I'd like for a router table. It would need to be about 3-4 inches higher to comfortably (and safely) use. I have the bosch router table, but rarely use it due to how short the surface is. It is just one more item taking up space in the shop. Not all that different from my planer, which requires surfaces level before and after so long pieces can be shaved down accurately. But again, once I get this outfeed/assembly table completed, I can build a base at the perfect height for the planer so the O/A table can be used for at least the outflow end. The router though, if I can incorporate it with the table saw, the bosch table can go to craigs list. Unless I cannibalize it for the power switches and such. On another subject: Can someone send me some surplus HDPE so I can upgrade my fence and make a few runners for sleds? Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Feb 28, 2020 |
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Feb 28, 2020 16:27
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If you google around, you may have a plastics supplier/fabricator near you. If they’re really nice they’ll let you dig around in their dumpster for scraps. The one here was happy to rip me 6” off the edge of a 4x8 sheet of 3/8” HDPE for much cheaper than buying little bits and pieces online at the woodworking jig parts markup.
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Feb 28, 2020 17:49
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Its usually the shipping that is killer. I get a lot of my HDPE from Amazon for that reason. Never buy HDPE from Rockler/Woodcraft, their markup is ridiculous. You can also look at cutting boards and Restaurant supply companies though sometimes thats more expensive as it's a "specialty" item.
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Feb 28, 2020 18:30
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TooMuchAbstraction I got a video for next time you're trying to take bark off  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6Ue3gQwquU
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Feb 28, 2020 19:02
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Right, next time I'll keep in mind that I should only try to debark perfectly round and straight logs.  Seriously though, that's really impressive, especially the inner carvings.
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Feb 28, 2020 19:12
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I sharpened my drawknife the other day and I have a stanley 151 spokeshave so I grabbed some sticks from the yard and started debarking and my goodness. It's one of those totally zen tasks that is super satisfying and enjoyable to do. A couple weeks ago I was in an antique store and bought what I thought was an oddly designed round-bottomed spokeshave, but turned out to actually be a shoemaker's tool: a Snell & Atherton Heel Shave. Here's a representative picture (not actually the one I bought):  I sharpened mine up a bit and it did a pretty decent job of carving bark out of a slight hollow on one of my sticks. The blade doesn't get super sharp, and it has a fairly open throat that can't be closed, but it worked pretty well.
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Feb 28, 2020 22:24
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I bought some really expensive whetstones today. eep.
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Feb 28, 2020 22:46
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Jaded Burnout posted:I bought some really expensive whetstones today. eep. Did you end up with Shapton? I went diamond stones, but I think the Shapton setup would have been great.
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Feb 28, 2020 23:40
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Falco posted:Did you end up with Shapton? I went diamond stones, but I think the Shapton setup would have been great. Naniwa Chosera.
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Feb 28, 2020 23:47
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Thanks, yes they are veneered. The edges were done after the case was glued up, glue one oversized edge down. Then line the other edge up over it and cut through both at the same time with a wide chisel, then you have nearly a perfect mitre when you glue the second edge on. There was no hammering involved for this particular project, didn't even use my vacuum press. I actually glued up the case before veneering, so I just used a chunk of 1/2" plywood as a caul and a bunch of clamps. I used pva glue as well. Meow Meow Meow fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 01:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you google around, you may have a plastics supplier/fabricator near you. If they’re really nice they’ll let you dig around in their dumpster for scraps. The one here was happy to rip me 6” off the edge of a 4x8 sheet of 3/8” HDPE for much cheaper than buying little bits and pieces online at the woodworking jig parts markup. Definitely check locally. Last time I needed some offcuts of HDPE for a project I found a local supplier who could sell me a full sheet for less than shipping would have cost, and scored me a 3"x8' offcut from another job for five bucks.
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Feb 29, 2020 03:23
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I just finished these little boxes with drawers, the smaller drawer is sized to fit a packaged tea bag to get an idea of the scale. The case is spalted chenchen and the drawer fronts are macassar ebony. Jaded Burnout, you need to create one more tag for this guy and a few others- Magnificent Woodworking Bastard. Never stop posting your work, forums user Meow Meow Meow.
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Feb 29, 2020 17:49
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Thanks friend.
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Feb 29, 2020 19:42
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Somebody local is selling a 6" ridgid jointer for $300. I don't have a jointer. Would I regret getting this? I have no problem edge jointing boards with a table saw. When I need to face-joint boards I use a no. 7 plane to get one side flat enough run through my planer. I just can't really do that very well with longer boards. Do you think that little jointer would handle a 6 foot board on it's 42" table? Any of you have a 6" jointer and regret it?
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Feb 29, 2020 22:55
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Graniteman posted:Somebody local is selling a 6" ridgid jointer for $300. I don't have a jointer. Would I regret getting this? I have no problem edge jointing boards with a table saw. When I need to face-joint boards I use a no. 7 plane to get one side flat enough run through my planer. I just can't really do that very well with longer boards. Do you think that little jointer would handle a 6 foot board on it's 42" table? Any of you have a 6" jointer and regret it? I got the Porter Cable 6" jointer new for that much and I kind of regret it because it can't do well with longer boards, which is what I need to joint more often than small stuff. It mostly takes up space until I do smaller projects, which I could have done easily on the table saw or hand plane anyway.
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Feb 29, 2020 23:03
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Graniteman posted:Somebody local is selling a 6" ridgid jointer for $300. I don't have a jointer. Would I regret getting this? I have no problem edge jointing boards with a table saw. When I need to face-joint boards I use a no. 7 plane to get one side flat enough run through my planer. I just can't really do that very well with longer boards. Do you think that little jointer would handle a 6 foot board on it's 42" table? Any of you have a 6" jointer and regret it? I picked up the same jointer off Craiglist years ago for $250 with some light rust on it. I changed the blades and gave it some elbow grease and it has been a great boon to my woodworking, I say go for it. Just be careful, as this was the same jointer that took the tip of my finger once. I posted pictures in this very thread, if you're interested in seeing
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Mar 1, 2020 15:53
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Liquid Communism posted:Definitely check locally. Last time I needed some offcuts of HDPE for a project I found a local supplier who could sell me a full sheet for less than shipping would have cost, and scored me a 3"x8' offcut from another job for five bucks. Sadly, I live about an hour from any area that would have such places.
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Mar 1, 2020 16:32
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Graniteman posted:Somebody local is selling a 6" ridgid jointer for $300. I don't have a jointer. Would I regret getting this? I have no problem edge jointing boards with a table saw. When I need to face-joint boards I use a no. 7 plane to get one side flat enough run through my planer. I just can't really do that very well with longer boards. Do you think that little jointer would handle a 6 foot board on it's 42" table? Any of you have a 6" jointer and regret it? If you can get a perfect 90 with your table saw, a planer will clean it up nicely, assuming the board isn't wider than 4-5 inches. I think the biggest knock on that size joiner is the bed length, although I wouldn't be afraid of running a 6 footer through it. If I had one, I'd seriously be trying to rig some outfeed extensions to the beds to lengthen them. That said, idk a thing about ridgid tools, but that doesn't seem like any bargain to me.
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Mar 1, 2020 18:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:If you can get a perfect 90 with your table saw, a planer will clean it up nicely, assuming the board isn't wider than 4-5 inches. I think the biggest knock on that size joiner is the bed length, although I wouldn't be afraid of running a 6 footer through it. If I had one, I'd seriously be trying to rig some outfeed extensions to the beds to lengthen them. That said, idk a thing about ridgid tools, but that doesn't seem like any bargain to me. It's a JP0610 jointer, which sells new for $600 or so. It's not a bench top model, but the bed is still only like 40 inches long. So the guy is selling it for about half of the new price, which seems typical for craigslist tools around here. Not an amazing deal, but I'd been eyeing that jointer. I think I'll probably build a jointer sled for my planer instead. Then I can face joint much wider stock than any jointer I'm likely to ever buy.
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Mar 1, 2020 19:29
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Graniteman posted:It's a JP0610 jointer, which sells new for $600 or so. It's not a bench top model, but the bed is still only like 40 inches long. So the guy is selling it for about half of the new price, which seems typical for craigslist tools around here. Not an amazing deal, but I'd been eyeing that jointer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzmSjlXJ2fg
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Mar 2, 2020 01:55
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Today I Learned: walnut has its own, more permissive grading system! Firsts and Seconds (FAS) is normally the best grade in hardwood and requires boards be at least 6”wide x 8’ long and be mostly clear of defects on one face. FAS walnut only has to be 5” wide on the best face by 6’ long and allows more defects even on the best face. So FAS walnut is really more like high grade #1 Common in another hardwood species. I hadn’t bought any walnut in a few years I guess and the quality definitely has gone down. The retail place wanted $8/bf for the saddest FAS 4/4 walnut I’ve seen! Found some better looking stuff at a much better price, but still pretty meh. China quit buying most domestic hardwoods in response to Trump tariffs, but apparently they are still buying all the walnut the can get. Cherry is super cheap right now though so stock up!
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Mar 2, 2020 22:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Today I Learned: walnut has its own, more permissive grading system! Firsts and Seconds (FAS) is normally the best grade in hardwood and requires boards be at least 6”wide x 8’ long and be mostly clear of defects on one face. FAS walnut only has to be 5” wide on the best face by 6’ long and allows more defects even on the best face. So FAS walnut is really more like high grade #1 Common in another hardwood species. $8/bf FAS rough cut is about average around here for Black Walnut. People went nuts over Black Walnut slabs for live edge and river tables. Which means a lot of trees that would of been boards and cut offs have become slabs so they could get $1500 for 2in slices. Not to mention the more defects the better as that's just character!
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Mar 2, 2020 23:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Today I Learned: walnut has its own, more permissive grading system! Firsts and Seconds (FAS) is normally the best grade in hardwood and requires boards be at least 6”wide x 8’ long and be mostly clear of defects on one face. FAS walnut only has to be 5” wide on the best face by 6’ long and allows more defects even on the best face. So FAS walnut is really more like high grade #1 Common in another hardwood species. Speaking of which, I've got a walnut tree we planted about 25 years ago as a sapling, looking like it died last year from accumulated drought years. It's about a foot through at the base, 8 foot trunk. Now taking bids...
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Mar 3, 2020 01:25
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JEEVES420 posted:$8/bf FAS rough cut is about average around here for Black Walnut. People went nuts over Black Walnut slabs for live edge and river tables. Which means a lot of trees that would of been boards and cut offs have become slabs so they could get $1500 for 2in slices. Not to mention the more defects the better as that's just character! I wouldn't mind paying $8/ft for nice stuff, but this looked like #2 common they were selling as FAS or something. 4" wide boards with a wane on one face and poo poo in there. They just changed management/ownership and I don't think it's gonna work out. I wound up paying $5/bf for nicer stuff from a distributor which was cheaper than I thought. I remember a few years ago even wholesale 4/4 was $6.50/bf and 8/4 got up to $7.50. Maybe everything being painted white is good for hardwood prices? Mr. Mambold posted:Speaking of which, I've got a walnut tree we planted about 25 years ago as a sapling, looking like it died last year from accumulated drought years. It's about a foot through at the base, 8 foot trunk. Now taking bids...
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Mar 3, 2020 03:13
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JEEVES420 posted:$8/bf FAS rough cut is about average around here for Black Walnut. People went nuts over Black Walnut slabs for live edge and river tables. Which means a lot of trees that would of been boards and cut offs have become slabs so they could get $1500 for 2in slices. Not to mention the more defects the better as that's just character! Sounds like barn wood around here. Edit: and beetle riddled fir logs. Rich folks love the squiggly lines. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Mar 3, 2020 |
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Mar 3, 2020 14:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I wouldn't mind paying $8/ft for nice stuff, but this looked like #2 common they were selling as FAS or something. 4" wide boards with a wane on one face and poo poo in there. They just changed management/ownership and I don't think it's gonna work out. I wound up paying $5/bf for nicer stuff from a distributor which was cheaper than I thought. I remember a few years ago even wholesale 4/4 was $6.50/bf and 8/4 got up to $7.50. Maybe everything being painted white is good for hardwood prices? David Pye sounds like a schmuck. Farmers and rurals were encouraged to plant walnuts during the Dust Bowl as wind breaks (and paperthins as a food source), but a lot of constant wind will mess up the grain of a tree. Idk what I'm getting at with that, but no decent, self-respecting tree can grow in constant shade of other trees. Survival of the biggest and fastest. For some anecdotal context I do recall a friend of mine going into a Paxton's some 40 or so years ago and seeing an old-timer complaining about the available walnut only being 5-7" wide boards, not like when he was a lad and 12" wide walnut was plentiful. Which my friend promptly bitched him out and blamed his generation for why there wasn't any choice wood left. So, ok boomer. I presume you know also that lumber producers also have their own shenanigans with it in steaming or altering boards to get sapwood to darken so they can grade it as usable lumber? Because who wants to use walnut sapwood.
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Mar 3, 2020 16:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:
 The top mouldings are still finished, but the small flat part under them is old wood.  Old walnut at top, new lightly steamed at bottom. Probably should have used African mahogany but oh well.
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Mar 3, 2020 22:20
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I love the contrast between sapwood and heartwood and it's very confusing to me that people want to hide it. e, also out here in California we grow a shitload of walnuts but I believe that modern orchard management says to cut them down at a certain age because their productivity drops as they become more elderly trees, so that might be another reason there's a lot less very large walnut boards out there. It's the same for almond, but almond wood mostly winds up as firewood.
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Mar 3, 2020 22:44
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I know this isn't a for-sale section, but I've got a worksharp 3000, stand, extra glass plates and discs I'm going to sell locally for cheap, and I know i've seen a few dallas area goons on this very thread, so I'd be happy to sell it to them even cheaper. It's pretty much brand new, I'll let a local good have it all for $50. Edit: looks like it’s sold to Jeeves bobua fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 02:12
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bobua posted:I know this isn't a for-sale section, but I've got a worksharp 3000, stand, extra glass plates and discs I'm going to sell locally for cheap, and I know i've seen a few dallas area goons on this very thread, so I'd be happy to sell it to them even cheaper. Dang that’s a phenomenal deal! If I was in the area, I would snap that up. I’m actually borrowing a friends right now to correct the bevel angle on some old planes and chisels I picked up at garage sales.
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Mar 4, 2020 02:53
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bobua posted:I know this isn't a for-sale section, but I've got a worksharp 3000, stand, extra glass plates and discs I'm going to sell locally for cheap, and I know i've seen a few dallas area goons on this very thread, so I'd be happy to sell it to them even cheaper. I'll take it. I'll pm for details.
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Mar 4, 2020 03:23
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Leperflesh posted:I love the contrast between sapwood and heartwood and it's very confusing to me that people want to hide it.  Finish 'Spergin  AheadI got into the weeds a bit on that walnut and trying to blend the colors and do a bit of sapstaining. I usually do this with toner/shading lacquer later in the finishing process but I've been trying to get better at color matching with water based dyes and decided to do it that way instead. I took a bunch of pictures of the steps for reference and so I guess  The problem:  There's some real warm/tan/orange/red old walnut at the top and the rest is new cool/grey new walnut. It's got a big strip of sapwood in it I'm gonna try and blend a bit better because this is on an antique and for the most part they didn't like sapwood back then (and they had a bunch of 24" wide walnut boards sitting around). To make these disparate parts match, the new wood needs to warm up and the old wood needs to cool down/grey out , and hopefully they meet in the middle. The sapwood also needs some color, and then when everything is in the same neighborhood, it'll all get a coat of the same color to help tie it together. Hopefully. I know how to warm up the new, grey walnut- Lockwood's American Walnut dye is a nice amber for warming steamed walnut back up and bringing the warm browns back. Because it needs to match this old, (really pretty red) walnut, I added a tiny bit of Georgian Brown Mahogany which has some strong red undertones. Greying out the old walnut was trickier. Lockwood's Nut Brown Walnut is a greyish brown, but not grey enough so I added some Silver Grey which always works to cool stuff down. There were still some strong orange undertones and I wanted to kill those some more, so I added a little tiny bit of blue. After a few experiments, this is where I wound up:  Since we are goons here and would rather touch computers than stain and color theory is tricky, I picked some colors out of those dye samples and used them as a transparency in GIMP:  Not perfect, but maybe helps. Dyes act basically like transparencies-they add a transparent layer of color to the existing wood without obscuring the figure of the wood underneath like a pigment based stain. Unfortunately, that also means they can accentuate differences in color between boards, where pigment stains will do a better job of making everything look consistent at the cost of hiding some grain/figure. First I hit the sapwood with the grey stain:  The brush can leave hard edges so I followed up with a wet rag on the edges to help the stain bleed a little. Forgot I put blue in there-whoops.  Put some of the American Walnut on top of that to start giving it the warmer tones:  Water based dyes like this don't really have a binder or fixative, but if you let one color dry well and then put another over it, it doesn't lift the first color too much, just don't scrub it or really soak it. (If you screw up, you can really soak it down and scrub it and get alot of the color out. Water based dyes are very forgiving and easy to work with) Hit the old walnut with the grey stuff. Sapwood has grey stuff + Am. Walnut:  Do all the new walnut with the American Walnut:  Again I lightly wiped/wetted the hard edge between new and old wood. I thought the sapwood still looked a bit light/yellow, so I hit it again with the grey stuff:  A heat gun helps if it's a humid day and you are super impatient like me! Now everything has been stained to match its neighbor reasonably well. Wiped on a coat of the american walnut over the whole thing-this always seems to help pull everything together:  This honestly came out a whole lot better than I thought it would. The old wood is a bit redder than the new, but it's much much better than before. The sapwood streak is also still visible, but it looks a lot more like a natural variation in the heartwood than an odd streak of white wood in the middle of a headboard  I think it'll come out fine after a little glaze and toning, but I definitely would have been better off using african mahogany(right) instead of walnut. A coat of Nut Brown Walnut to kill some of the orange/pink in it and a little toner and it's a perfect match for warm walnut (left). 
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Mar 4, 2020 03:25
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Walnut chat: I wonder how WWI and WWII effected the walnut supply in the states, seeing as literally multi-millions of walnut rifle stocks were produced for them.
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Mar 4, 2020 16:40
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Been making a lot of pixel cutting boards lately after one of mine was featured on AGDQ. I never thought I'd be making a wooden Kenny from South Park, but who am I to argue with a commission.   Pretty happy with how it turned out. The orange wood is Paela and really pops after oiling. In making these boards Im chewing through a lot of 80 grit sanding discs. Has anyone tried these carbide ones?  https://duragrit.com/DuraDisc-Carbide-Sanding-Disc.html I see Stumpy Nubs recommending them but I've never seen anyone else discuss them. It's hard to pull the trigger for $50 USD on a gamble.
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Mar 4, 2020 18:15
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How are you prepping the boards before finish sanding? Do you run them through a planer or drum sander? I only use 220 and 320 grit discs, couldn't imagine trying to tackle an end grain board with 80 to get flat.
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Mar 4, 2020 18:52
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JEEVES420 posted:How are you prepping the boards before finish sanding? Do you run them through a planer or drum sander? Explain?
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Mar 4, 2020 18:58
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Different species of end grain being denser than others means more "waves" when using an orbital sander. That and starting at 80 is just a lot of hand sanding. I will take 1/64th to 1/128th off with a planer to get it flat or, when I can, use a drum sander with 80 then 150 before going at it with the orbital and 220 to 320. Even then its a 2 day process of orbital sanding with 220, rub it down with a water soaked rag, let dry, sand with 220 then 320, water and let dry, 320, lots of water and let sit over night, 320 again, then the oil bath.
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Mar 4, 2020 19:23
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keep it down up there! posted:Been making a lot of pixel cutting boards lately after one of mine was featured on AGDQ. I never thought I'd be making a wooden Kenny from South Park, but who am I to argue with a commission. Nice cutting board! Using an orbital sander to flatten an end grain cutting board is gonna take forever no matter what. A belt sander will get it flat much faster. If orbits sander is your only option, I’d start with a lower grit like 60. No experience with that carbide thing but seems gimmicky? What kind of sandpaper are you using? Using a good brand like Klingspor or 3M makes a world of difference in the life of the paper.
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Mar 4, 2020 19:24
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