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Warbird posted:That's super interesting. What sort of presets do they have to let you tweak rendering? I do a decent amount of GPU rendering for Blender piddling and you can certainly go down the rabbit hole if you so choose. There are literally two presets: HQ and LQ. One is for when you feed it high quality video, like 1080p it 720p and one is for when you feed it low quality video, which is pretty much everything else. The weird thing about the AI upscaling is the way you tweak it is by changing what you feed it. Taking your video and sharpening it, downscaling it and generally changing it will give you different results. This video explains it pretty well https://youtu.be/rl1pbEG2kgA
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Mar 19, 2020 20:46
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The FAA considers itself applicable to:quote:(4) Except as provided for in §101.7, any unmanned free balloon I think that means you have a max payload weight of 6lbs, or 4lbs if the payload above a certain density. If you were going to use that to guide the size of your vehicle you'd be looking at a balloon between 5'8" and 4'10" diameter according to some chart I made: 
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Mar 20, 2020 06:57
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It makes sense to go after hydrogen. Aside from being able to make it yourself from water, helium is only going to rise in price. The problem with helium is its an unrecoverable resource. When you pop a helium balloon that helium goes straight up to space and you dont get it back. When I worked at GE Healthcare we used liquid helium to quench the magnets in our MRI machines in the event of a runaway, and the helium costs were enough of a problem that we were actively speculating on helium prices and working to find new sources of it. Even supercooled helium will slowly boil off and the gas is able to pass through most containers that arent a solid layer of salt 3000 feet below the earths surface What I'm saying is dont buy helium baloons yall its a limited resource in ways most people dont realize Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Mar 20, 2020 |
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Mar 20, 2020 15:56
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Sheesh, quit catastrophizing. We can always make more helium in nuclear reactors 
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Mar 20, 2020 16:05
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It makes sense to go after hydrogen. Aside from being able to make it yourself from water, helium is only going to rise in price. The problem with helium is its an unrecoverable resource. yeah, i’ve got great plans for a dry-plate water electrolyzer that separates the anodes/cathodes with membranes and vents each product separately so you don’t just end up with the hydrogen and oxygen in a decidedly non-lifting explosive gas mix. i primarily want it for generating fuel gas + oxidizer on demand for a tankless oxy-hydrogen torch, but it should be adaptable for this as well. most people launching balloons don’t even bother with anything that elaborate, they just dump a bunch of metal filings/steel wool/clean aluminium scrap into a container filled w lye water in precalculated amounts and put the balloon neck over the vessel spout and let chemistry do the, heh, heavy lifting
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Mar 20, 2020 16:37
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Sagebrush posted:Sheesh, quit catastrophizing. We can always make more helium in nuclear reactors 3.6 Roentgen, its fine for a party baloon
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Mar 20, 2020 17:20
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What are you using for power? I've long held a pipe dream that ETFE flexible solar panels would make a good zeppelin skin.
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Mar 20, 2020 17:22
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DreadLlama posted:What are you using for power? I've long held a pipe dream that ETFE flexible solar panels would make a good zeppelin skin. this is extremely preliminary but just whatever battery i can source that meets the payload needs and has the best possible energy density, prolly just a decent lipo. weather balloons aren’t controllable and flights are only a couple hours in duration, they go up + drift with the wind until their envelopes swell enough from the low air pressure that they burst and drop the payload. nothing there really justifies solar panels or other longer-term approaches. the payload would prolly be a fairly typical lightweight radiosonde deal, any desired sensors/telemetry plus a means of tracking like a GSM module + sim card, and maybe a gopro or comparable camera if there’s enough payload capacity left. my dream cargo would be an air sampler that catches particulates on a growth medium, so i could culture n generally investigate high-atmospheric airborne organisms, but i don’t have lab access now and won’t until the dread covid has passed us over, so it’d be sth more mundane like a generic barometric-temperature-humidity environmental sensor suite w data logger, so you get a little more from it than just cool pics and bragging rights (although those are also excellent + desirable don’t get me wrong)
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Mar 20, 2020 18:33
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Are RC gliders a thing? It would be a hoot to send one up on one of those balloons and pilot it back to you in FPV or something like thing. I'd assume the distances involve would quickly result in things being infeasible and/or illegal to transmit that amount of data over that distance. I wonder if you could do an autonomous solution.
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Mar 20, 2020 20:27
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Yes, people definitely send RC planes up to the edge of space with balloons https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpBnurznFio
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Mar 20, 2020 21:29
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gonna send a bunch of tardigrades up to the edge of space and expose them to intense UV radiation. not for, like, science purposes, that sounds like work. i just despise the dreaded tardigrade and want them to know fear
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Mar 20, 2020 23:12
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Fuckin tiny rear end fat bears
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Mar 22, 2020 01:22
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I just got a tiny hawk RTF Kit. I see stuff about using beta flight to calibrate stuff — is this necessary, and how do I actually connect any of this to a computer? A link to a recommended guide or something would be very helpful if possible I’m a bit lost. E: I’m also having a hard time trimming it correctly, it seems to always drift to the side. Is there anything to know when doing that?
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Mar 22, 2020 08:30
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tildes posted:I just got a tiny hawk RTF Kit. I see stuff about using beta flight to calibrate stuff — is this necessary, and how do I actually connect any of this to a computer? A link to a recommended guide or something would be very helpful if possible I’m a bit lost. I got this kit a few months ago. At the top of the drone, there's a USB micro connector. Plug in there (you won't need the battery connected). You'll need to install betaflight Configurator, it should let you connect. This software is where you can mess with the calibration and tuning. You don't need to do any tuning yet but eventually you'll want to (when you want to go faster and do cool tricks) but this will let you calibrate the accelerometer. Put it on a surface so it's sitting level and press the calibrate accelerometer button and you should lose most of the drift. I recommend Joshua Bardwell on YouTube for instructions on how to do pretty much everything
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Mar 22, 2020 11:05
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Splode posted:At the top of the drone, there's a USB micro connector. Plug in there (you won't need the battery connected).
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Mar 22, 2020 11:11
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evil_bunnY posted:TAKE YOUR loving PROPS OFF first It's a tinyhawk dude and I did say not to connect the battery
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Mar 22, 2020 19:10
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Splode posted:It's a tinyhawk dude and I did say not to connect the battery Ok so keep the battery disconnected, but why out of curiosity? I assume so it doesn’t start flying somehow? Splode posted:I got this kit a few months ago. Thank you this is super helpful. Right now the drift is pretty bad so rly hoping this will work
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Mar 22, 2020 19:23
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Several other safeties have to be bypassed but yes, it's so it doesn't spin the props. Also just because you don't need it, you'll just heat up your video transmitter for no reason. People using larger quads also take the props off because full size 5 inch props can do a lot of damage.
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Mar 22, 2020 19:37
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Splode posted:Several other safeties have to be bypassed but yes, it's so it doesn't spin the props. Also just because you don't need it, you'll just heat up your video transmitter for no reason. Then there was the time back when I first got into quads and plugged the battery into my Aerosky C6 with 10” bi-blades. And tried to catch it with my hands.
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Mar 22, 2020 19:54
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evil_bunnY posted:TAKE YOUR loving PROPS OFF first 1) Have you ever tried taking the props off a Tinyhawk? 2) "Props off" mostly pertains to when you have battery power connected and are configuring your ESCs in BLHeliSuite or BLHeli Configurator, or testing motors in Betaflight Configurator. Betaflight will keep an arming disable flag active while connected to the configurator (MSP), so you don't have to worry about accidentally hitting any switches on your transmitter in this situation. 3) While the ESCs on many all-in-one boards will power on and run off 5V USB (same with the camera and VTX), this power source won't be able to provide nearly enough current to cause any sort of chaos. The worst I've had happen was when configuring a SailFly-X from scratch on USB power only and one of the motors started spinning on its own at low RPM while remapping the motor outputs (a necessary step because the board is mounted upside down on that model), and I think that only started happening because I hadn't yet switched the ESC protocol from the default ONESHOT over to DSHOT. tildes posted:E: I’m also having a hard time trimming it correctly, it seems to always drift to the side. Is there anything to know when doing that? I have only briefly messed with the Tinyhawk RTF transmitter, but doesn't it play a unique tone when you've reached trim center? I would make sure all trims are at center, then observe what is happening in the Receiver tab in Betaflight Configurator. It will provide a nice visualization of all your transmitter channels as well as show what effect it has on the maneuvering rates of your model. Even on hobby grade transmitters, I usually find I need to set RC Deadband and Yaw Deadband to somewhere between 2 and 10. You may need more on a device using game controller pots instead of real gimbals. Because the Tinyhawk uses an all-in-one board, the receiver should still be active on USB power only (this is true for both SPI and external receivers), so you won't need a battery connected for this. Edit: it just occurred to me that you may actually be talking about flying it in angle mode and may be dealing with an accelerometer trim issue (i.e. the sensor that tells it which way is up). If you change into acro mode and it doesn't slowly roll to the side, it's probably not transmitter-related. You can adjust the accelerometer trim manually in Betaflight Configurator, and you can also use stick commands to do it while disarmed. Bardwell has a video on this here. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 22, 2020 |
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Mar 22, 2020 19:59
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It's better to add trim in betaflight rather than the transmitter if it's necessary, but it shouldn't be necessary. I only had trouble with my tinyhawk when I tried to run it on the betaflight 4.1 mockingbird tune and it couldn't get the gyro to stabilise (never fixed that properly, ended up reverting to 4.0 and the original tinyhawk mockingbird tune)
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Mar 22, 2020 20:09
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I love this DJI FPV setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mx8t3Ya90a4
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Mar 23, 2020 04:03
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Re: trim & drift chat - some drift is normal and expected. These aren't DJI drones with 20 cameras pointed in all directions and GPS to ensure they can hover completely still. Especially when you start flying in acro mode, the thing will constantly be moving. Sure, it's worth getting it roughed in calibration wise so the gyro doesn't think it's on a 20 degree angle when it's not, but don't go crazy trying to get it perfectly dialed in because it won't. Been flying a lot over the last couple weeks with all the downtime and it's made a huge difference. I'm still no pro but I'm getting a lot better.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAQxvAUzH-o
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Mar 23, 2020 18:28
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Zorilla posted:... Thank you, this is perfect! This got the drone waaay more centered than it was before -- it still isn't a perfect hover obviously, but when I'm flying around now it really isn't noticeable. I've been doing angle instead of acro since I'm currently stuck inside a pretty small apartment unfortunately and even angle is pretty challenging for me right now. Just to make sure I am not doing something dumb here -- right now my left stick is throttle/yaw, and the right stick is pitch/roll. This is correct, right? Or do people usually do a different combo? e: I'm pretty bad at keeping my throttle consistent while also turning at the same time right now. e2: OK this seems to be standard, so I guess my issues are just purely my own problems lol. Also, I've been sort of "pinching" my sticks between my fingers instead of just using my thumb alone like with a game controller. It sort of feels like this gives finer control, but it also seems weird enough that maaaybe this isn't the recommended route. Is there a particular suggestion on this? tildes fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Mar 24, 2020 |
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Mar 24, 2020 02:29
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Some people do fly pincher style. Do what works for you.
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Mar 24, 2020 04:37
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tildes posted:Thank you, this is perfect! This got the drone waaay more centered than it was before -- it still isn't a perfect hover obviously, but when I'm flying around now it really isn't noticeable. All of this is fine and normal. One thing I will say is, when I started I read a lot of stuff about how angle mode is the training wheels mode and everyone flies acro. This is true for almost all quads with the notable exception of quads like your tinyhawk (1S battery cell powered indoor "tinywhoops"). The pros actually race these in angle mode, it's undeniably faster. I wasted a lot of time avoiding angle mode when I should have embraced it sooner. Acro is still worth learning but it's really for bigger drones.
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Mar 24, 2020 08:19
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I only fly tiny whoops in angle mode, and only fly anything larger in acro.
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Mar 24, 2020 11:09
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bring back old gbs posted:I only fly tiny whoops in angle mode, and only fly anything larger in acro.
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Mar 24, 2020 12:41
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bring back old gbs posted:I only fly tiny whoops in angle mode, and only fly anything larger in acro. This is the way
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Mar 24, 2020 16:29
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Rincey posted:This is the way I finally ended up buying a set of Skyzone O30 (or is it 03O? loving dumb product name) and have a bunch of packs on them now. Flippin' amazing screen clarity, contrast, and color compared to my old EV800D box. I got wobbly knees the first couple batteries flying outside as the trees I was coasting upside down over weren't just greyish blobs, but actually had detail. Super comfortable weighing less with a battery than the box goggles did without, and all the weight is close to my face so it doesn't feel like a toddler is pulling down my face all the time. The video reception is really lackluster though compared to the EV800Ds however which really sucks because they receivers are integrated in the goggles so I'm stuck with it unless I want to glue a fatshark module to these new $400 goggles. I flew them back to back with the old goggles, swapping the antennas, and the reception is clearly inferior compared to the $85 box goggles. I would imagine the have the same VRX modules inside both so it comes down to software which would make me hopeful if they ran open source software, but I highly doubt Skyzone is going to ever put out a new firmware for them that magically makes reception better. There's also the possibility that the image is just so clear on them that I can see the video noise and flickers more clearly.
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Mar 24, 2020 22:17
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My skyzone sky02X goggles arrived yesterday and I'm loving them, huge improvement over the emax transporter box goggles I had before. They're way more comfortable, the picture is nicer, and all the extra features like built in DVR and various video in/out options are cool. Can't fairly compare the reception yet until the 90 degree SMA adaptors I ordered arrive, but using the lovely stock antennae it's adequate. Still out-ranges my x lite transmitter (I really need to get an external antenna for that...)
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Mar 25, 2020 06:55
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Good to know about angle mode! I figured out how to hook my transmitter up to my computer to run a simulator, so I guess I’ll use that to practice acro for the distant future when I have a larger drone 👍🏻👍🏻 TY for all the advice. FPV is still blowing me away, it’s such a step up from flying my old little toy drones by line of sight.
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Mar 25, 2020 08:08
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Does anyone know what kind of connector this is?  It's on a 3s lipo that's supposed to charge via balance via USB. Charging a 2500mah battery at 5V at 2A (10Watts I think?) is too slow for my taste. According to this website: https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/charging-how-tos/wattage-for-charging I would probably be happier charging at ~200W. I'm eyeballing some ISDT chargers on amazon, but trying to use one of them without a reliable male connection to the battery could be bad. I know I could technically get away with something like jamming a pair of 20ga. nails in the connection and connecting to the charger with alligator clips but it seems inevitable that one of the nails would eventually slip and result in a short circuit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ9nDbC8dGw
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Mar 25, 2020 09:15
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That’s a proprietary spade receiver. If you can get the spade cluster that’s in your drone you could make a harness.
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Mar 25, 2020 09:47
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Male spade terminals pressed into a small block of wood sounds like a plan. Thank you. edit: There's more proprietary stuff on this drone than I thought. Would someone with a DJI spark do me a tremendous favour? On top of your motors there is a quick release mount held in place with 2 screws.  Could you measure the distance between those screws to see whether or not they are 9mm apart? DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 12:29
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My parrot Bebop 2 has a very similar connector and I was able to just splice the factory charge cable into an xt60 and add a balance port. Might be worth seeing if the connectors are similar E: I can grab the measurements of my Bebop battery terminals if you want, that way you could hack up a Bebop cable you get from amazon or something. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 17:44
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That would be cool and awesome. I suspect this drone is a ripoff of either the mavic air or spark so discovering that it's able to use a lot of DJI parts is kind of my hope/expectation.
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Mar 25, 2020 17:53
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Slapped some calipers on it and here is the album https://imgur.com/a/geBJgxY Looking at it and your battery, it doesn’t look like it will fit but 
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Mar 25, 2020 18:13
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Thanks but unfortunately you're right. It would not fit. But I have just learned that standard 110v male plugs prongs are exactly the right distance apart to fit into the two outermost slots. One would need some filing to fit as the slots are too narrow. This would mean a hot male connection. At least it is a rigid hot male connection. It would be safer to have the battery to slot into a box. I think I understand why they went with the usb balance charger.
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Mar 25, 2020 19:34
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DreadLlama posted:This would mean a hot male connection. At least it is a rigid hot male connection. text me
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Mar 25, 2020 19:55
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