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Thats called "charm"
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Apr 8, 2020 19:35
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I believe your deck can be called "rustic".
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Apr 8, 2020 19:48
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Rotten Cookies posted:I built my entire deck by dragging my 23" monitor out next to every board and marking it out because I just can't trust my Starret 12" rule. This girl wanted help measuring for a new rug and so I dragged my monitor all the way there...
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Apr 8, 2020 20:14
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Karia posted:I believe your deck can be called "rustic". This is outdated the hot term now if you wanna go that way is "organic". It works far too well for me
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Apr 8, 2020 20:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This girl wanted help measuring for a new rug and so I dragged my monitor all the way there... this is why she kissed her boyfriend when he showed up. When this happens I just use my dick to measure it's 12" exactly so I just do a split and measure away.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:22
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^^^ posts like that remind me how much I hate being on jobsites with a crew. It's never ending
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Apr 8, 2020 20:30
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If it was on Zillow or redfin it would be "Carpenter's dream!" Meaning nothing is square, nothing is uniform measurements and all the materials were salvaged from pallets or whatever building was recently demolished nearby. This is my current rental house. Built in 1905 in a predominantly swedish fisherman's neighborhood of Seattle ... Seemingly by hand using rough cut lumber and backwoods engineering. All the fixes over the years are Band-Aids on Band-Aids and I highly doubt most of it is not up to code. I can't wait to buy a house in the next year only to unwrap 50 years of neglect and patchwork repairs.
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Apr 8, 2020 21:21
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If you got an actual starrett, you and everything else you own are wrong. It is correct. Fight me.
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Apr 8, 2020 21:55
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Your mom is a carpenter’s dream, she loves being nailed.
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Apr 8, 2020 22:04
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Hey can I get a sanity check on this Craigslist rigid portable table saw. https://austin.craigslist.org/tls/d/austin-ridgid-table-saw/7103129970.html I'm looking to build up a small wood shop in my garage, planning to start with some basic garage storage, basic cabinets, work tables with simple half lap joinery. Looking for basic table saw to do this. How often is this rigid model on sale, I saw it was $250 new sometime last year at Home Depot. Is $250 a decent price?
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Apr 8, 2020 23:29
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Motronic posted:FYI, those adapter suck rear end. They either fail, fail in a way that takes out the battery, or just "work normally" which means draining any 20v battery you leave on the tool to the point that the charger wont' charge it anymore. Which is distinct from the second scenario if you jump some wire between the pos and neg of the "bad" battery to a good one just to get enough charge back in it that the charger will do the rest of the job. Ah, I didn't know that. When I swapped to 20v I just sold the couple 18v drills I had. I believe it though, found out the hard way how the leaf blower will destroy a battery if you leave it in. I think the hold capability on the trigger doesn't turn quite all the way off, even though the motor isn't getting enough voltage to spin. Also, this week I sold my chainsaw (which was my last 2 stroke tool) and got a DeWalt 16" flexvolt saw. Holy crap the 9ah battery is big. Reviews call it pretty solid, if it's half as capable as they claim it will serve me just fine. The chain brake (which also turns power off to the motor) has a very solid and uh, satisfying action which is an odd thing to say about a chainsaw. Also re: circ saw chat - I have an ancient Makita (it's RED) one that was left on the outside of a dumpster like the owner wanted rid of it but hated to throw it away. I've put two blades on it, and it's still going strong, despite the OSHA violation original cord I'll fix it next time I swear. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 23:46
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AmericanBarbarian posted:Hey can I get a sanity check on this Craigslist rigid portable table saw. https://austin.craigslist.org/tls/d/austin-ridgid-table-saw/7103129970.html That seems expensive for a used saw portable saw but maybe it depends on the area, I'm in Canada. Especially because I don't think Rigid's lifetime warranty transfers between owners? Maybe it does but I've heard that thay can be rather strict. I had the one size saw up from that one, the job site one, and it was pretty decent. The fence was accurate and well aligned right out the box and I got some good use out of it while I learned about woodworking until I upgraded to a cabinet saw.
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Apr 8, 2020 23:46
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AmericanBarbarian posted:Hey can I get a sanity check on this Craigslist rigid portable table saw. https://austin.craigslist.org/tls/d/austin-ridgid-table-saw/7103129970.html I don't know much about the Ridgid, but I don't think I would pay that close to retail from craigslist. For jobsite saws, I almost always see the Dewalt DW745 as the go to. It's $100 more, but new and very capable from my understanding.
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Apr 8, 2020 23:47
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edit: didn’t see the new page, but to ruler person: How do you know your “good” ruler is the good ruler? I have never tried to use a monitor as a ruler, is that actually accurate? Are you sure there isn’t something specific to your setup and display that’s making your “good” ruler measure as though it’s right when maybe it isn’t really?
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Apr 9, 2020 01:19
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powderific posted:edit: didn’t see the new page, but to ruler person: How do you know your “good” ruler is the good ruler? I have never tried to use a monitor as a ruler, is that actually accurate? Are you sure there isn’t something specific to your setup and display that’s making your “good” ruler measure as though it’s right when maybe it isn’t really? I DON’T know if my “good” ruler is good, but it’s the one I’ve been using to make and double-check all of my measurements up to now, and it agrees with the “accurate” “actual size” ruler images I found on google, so I’ve just been pretending it’s right and using it as though it is.  My problem now is that I need a longer ruler, at least 3 feet long, but all the markings I’ve already made were made with the “good” ruler. So I need the longer ruler to sync up with the “good” ruler so I don’t mess a bunch of poo poo up. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 03:03
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Seriously, this whole discussion is nutty, unless you are milling parts for precision machinery, and then a ruler is the wrong tool. Get a name brand tape measure and be done. Your saw kerf probably has more variability based on temperature than two name brand tape measures.
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Apr 9, 2020 03:13
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I don’t know. My head hurts. This is loving stupid. I ordered one more ruler and that’s the last loving one I’m buying. And I’m probably gonna use it from now on instead of that “good” one. If they don’t line up with each other then gently caress it, I’m just gonna erase all of my old measurements and make new ones.
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Apr 9, 2020 03:19
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<....................................... > 1" on my phone screen if that helps
Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 03:27
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:<....................................... > 1" on my phone screen if that helps
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Apr 9, 2020 03:41
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The reason we suggest using a tape measure instead of a ruler is because the tape measure can measure semi-arbitrary distances and is going to be internally consistent enough for any realistic work you'll be doing. For carpentry, rulers are pretty much limited to a) measuring the widths of boards, and b) being a straightedge. Keep in mind that for fine-fitting work done by amateurs, you don't rely on measurements. You cut oversize, and then do test fits and nibble a bit off at a time until you have the right length. Or you get one piece and cut other pieces to match that piece, and who cares whan their actual measurements are? The people who need something to be exactly X length with a tolerance of +-.001" or whatever are machinists who are making parts that need to fit with other parts with similarly-defined tolerances. That is not what you are doing.
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Apr 9, 2020 03:43
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I. M. Gei posted:I don’t know. Mods rename this goon One Thing to Rule Them All. Thank.
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Apr 9, 2020 03:50
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I. M. Gei posted:I don’t know. Op I have never been sure if you are trolling or just a bizarre goon, but I have never in my carpentry and woodworking career used a ruler to measure much of anything except a scale to look at drawings. Use a tape measure. They are all more accurate than you are. They are all more than accurate enough to put up a trellis for some apple trees and cat poop. Even if two of them don’t line up exactly, it doesn’t matter. A poor carpenter blames his tools and all that. If you mark for a hole or a cut line precisely, are you going to drill it that precisely into masonry with a hammer drill, or is the bit going to wander a quarter inch? (Pro tip: it is going to wander and it doesn’t really matter) If you mark your cut line precisely to the thousandth of an inch, it doesn’t matter because any cut you make with a circ saw is only really likely to be accurate to a sixteenth, and that’s if you’re pretty good. Drill all your holes in the brick, doesn’t really matter where they are. Stick whatever wood is going on top them up there and mark where the holes actually are. Doesn’t matter where they are supposed to be, and how many inches apart they are is completely irrelevant. Build off what you have at each step, and at each step you can get things more precise and tightly fitted. The foundations of a house are correct to the inch, the framing to the quarter inch, the drywall to the eighth, the finish carpentry to the sixteenth and the trim to the thirty-second. You’re project is firmly in the framing or foundation category-don’t overthink it.
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Apr 9, 2020 04:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The reason we suggest using a tape measure instead of a ruler is because the tape measure can measure semi-arbitrary distances and is going to be internally consistent enough for any realistic work you'll be doing. For carpentry, rulers are pretty much limited to a) measuring the widths of boards, and b) being a straightedge. ...... I actually do need a straightedge for what I’m doing. But yeah, you’re right, I need to get a better tape measure too. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Keep in mind that for fine-fitting work done by amateurs, you don't rely on measurements. You cut oversize, and then do test fits and nibble a bit off at a time until you have the right length. Or you get one piece and cut other pieces to match that piece, and who cares whan their actual measurements are? The thing I’m building has eyehole screws screwed into it every 2 feet, and it’s gonna look lovely if I don’t measure out where to put those. It’s also pretty big and going in a space of relatively limited size. Maybe this’ll help. This is a lovely MSPaint mockup of what I’m building. It’s an espalier trellis for a row of apple trees I’m planting along the side of my house. A lot of people doing this might just put the eyehole screws for the trellis wire directly into their wall, but I didn’t have that option because I couldn’t plant my trees close enough to my house (due to some foundation poo poo being in the way) or find eyehole screws long enough to make that work, so I’m putting some 4x4s up on the wall and screwing the longest eyehole screws I could find into those to make them stick out the right distance.  Bottom Line: I’m taking measurements because this’ll look like poo poo if I don’t. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 04:39
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I'm not saying "don't measure", I'm saying "don't build in such a way that your measurements have to be perfectly accurate". In particular if you need something to fit a gap, don't assume that the gap is what it "should" be according to the plans, and don't assume that the board you cut to fit the gap is going to be exactly what you measured it to be before cutting. Your eyehooks? Hook your tape measure to one end of the board, then work your way along marking every 2'. Then use a speed square to put a crossmark across those every-two-feet marks, and where those cross is where you put the eyehooks. They'll be within 1/4" of exact and that's more than enough.
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Apr 9, 2020 04:47
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I. M. Gei posted:I don’t know. What did you get that's a step up from Starrett? Are you going to be using gage blocks to lay this out? Ooh! Did you buy one of the obsolete National Prototype Metre Bars? I really want to imagine you lugging a 140 year old multi-kilogram piece of platinum iridium around to mark holes on wood. EDIT: Hey, NIST does ruler calibrations! Send them your Starrett rule, they'll measure it for you to a 95% confidence interval of about 28 micrometers. That's honestly not great, it's about 1.1 thou, but it's limited by the width of the ruler marks. I doubt they'd calibrate your "true" 12" plastic ruler, but maybe if you ship them your monitor they'll calibrate your online rulers? Post their respose! https://www.nist.gov/pml/sensor-science/dimensional-metrology/precision-metal-rulers Karia fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 04:48
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I. M. Gei posted:The thing I’m building has eyehole screws screwed into it every 2 feet, and it’s gonna look lovely if I don’t measure out where to put those. It’s also pretty big and going in a space of relatively limited size. Based on what I can gather, you have one measuring tool that you find "correct." Why not use that tool to create a story stick which measures exactly the distance you need, and transfer the measurements to your work that way? If it's a repeated measurement, it will actually be a more consistent way to get the same distance each time vs. you measuring/marking/cutting/drilling/whatever each time.
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Apr 9, 2020 05:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm not saying "don't measure", I'm saying "don't build in such a way that your measurements have to be perfectly accurate". In particular if you need something to fit a gap, don't assume that the gap is what it "should" be according to the plans, and don't assume that the board you cut to fit the gap is going to be exactly what you measured it to be before cutting. I think I’m already doing all of this, though? I’m just doing the second thing with a ruler instead of a tape measure.
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Apr 9, 2020 05:06
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Trabant posted:Based on what I can gather, you have one measuring tool that you find "correct." Why not use that tool to create a story stick which measures exactly the distance you need, and transfer the measurements to your work that way? This isn’t a bad idea. I could probably do it with the back of that lovely Home Depot yardstick I have.
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Apr 9, 2020 05:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:Mods rename this goon One Thing to Rule Them All. Tools: One straightedge to rule them all
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Apr 9, 2020 05:25
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I'm going to compare all the rulers and tape measures I own later, just to see how little the differences matter.
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Apr 9, 2020 09:09
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I'm honestly speechless.
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Apr 9, 2020 09:18
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Yeah.....seriously. IM - what you are being told that it doesn't seem like you understand: your measuring devices are fine. They're both the WRONG ones for this job and you are doing it wrong. Stop blaming the accuracy of the incorrect tools you are using in the incorrect way. You don't have a tool problem: you have a skill and technique problem.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:37
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I. M. Gei posted:Maybe this’ll help. This is a lovely MSPaint mockup of what I’m building. It’s an espalier trellis for a row of apple trees I’m planting along the side of my house. A lot of people doing this might just put the eyehole screws for the trellis wire directly into their wall, but I didn’t have that option because I couldn’t plant my trees close enough to my house (due to some foundation poo poo being in the way) or find eyehole screws long enough to make that work, so I’m putting some 4x4s up on the wall and screwing the longest eyehole screws I could find into those to make them stick out the right distance. https://extension.msstate.edu/content/conducive-conditions-common-termite-risk-factors
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Apr 9, 2020 14:48
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I. M. Gei posted:I think I’m already doing all of this, though? I’m just doing the second thing with a ruler instead of a tape measure. Which is why all of your measurements are wrong. Look: if you take a measurement from A to B with any device, I don't care how accurate it is, there will be some measurement error because humans are fickle and frail. Let's say it's 1/32" for the sake of argument. Now let's say you have a 20' long board that you want to mark off every 2'. If you use the tape measure approach, where you hook the measure on the end of the board and just walk along marking every 2', every single one of your marks will be +- 1/32". That's fine. If you take your ruler, put it at the end of the board, measure 2', and mark, that first mark will be +- 1/32". If you then take that same ruler and measure from your first mark to the second mark, that second mark will be +- 1/16". And the third will be +- 3/32". And so on until at the last mark you'll be +- 5/16". That of course assumes that your start point for the ruler exactly matches the end point for the last ruler-placed location. That's hard to do though so probably you're getting another 1/32" at least of error right there, which means your cumulative error at the end is +- 5/8". In short: use a tape measure. You're making this harder than it needs to be.
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Apr 9, 2020 15:09
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A tape measure and speed square have been used to make far more complex things OP and trying to do it with a goofy plastic ruler you validated using your computer screen is bizarre. You have to tell us if you’re trolling, pretty sure it’s a law.
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Apr 9, 2020 15:14
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powderific posted:A tape measure and speed square have been used to make far more complex things OP and trying to do it with a goofy plastic ruler you validated using your computer screen is bizarre. A trellis does not require NIST-certified measuring tools. And TooMuchAbstraction did a good job of explaining how you're error stacking your way into frustration. All of us are sitting here like  because you are so hyper focused on absolutely the wrong thing, and getting rear end results because of it. You can measure things smaller than the length of a ruler with a ruler. Pretty much full stop. There's a reason most of us have a 12', 16', 25', 30', and 100' tape. Because every time you measure part of something, move your measuring tool, and measure the rest, you introduce error. Use a goddamn tape measure and a speed square, put a mark every 2 feet along the length, put your speed square against it, mark the width halfway or wherever you want the holes, and drill. You're building a trellis, not a clock. Edit: if you don't believe us, go take a square and tape and check things that you think are square or of equal length. Your mind will be blown that everything you think is a square or rectangle is some variety of rhomboid or trapezoid. I don't think I have a single actual 90 degree corner in my house. stealie72 fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 15:28
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Also, and I mean this in the most helpful way I can, you seem to have a habit of running out and buying new tools when you're not getting the sort of results you expect with your current tools, without pausing to understand why your expectations aren't meeting up with reality. Then your new tools don't work either and you get frustrated and buy more and more expensive tools on the assumption that tool quality is the issue. I don't think a Makita hammer drill is going to break within a week of normal use, and I don't think a Starrett rule is off by any amount you or I have the ability to measure. Your assumptions, techniques, or understanding are faulty, not your tools. Stop rushing, take a pause, and do your best to understand the source of an issue before jumping to a solution. If it helps, very practical and slim textbooks exist (in the UK at least) to help guide apprentice carpenters through common tasks and processes, and we're happy to help out if you're willing to take your time. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 15:39
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Jaded Burnout posted:I don't think a Makita hammer drill is going to break within a week of normal use I did not put together that this was "hammer drill doesn't work" person also. Yes, IM needs to put a pause on all of this and do some actual research with books or videos to learn basic techniques and how to use tools. That's not a dig - everyone who knows how to use tools had to learn somehow/somewhere. Techniques and proper use aren't always obvious, and I think that there are a lot of incorrect assumptions being made.
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Apr 9, 2020 16:16
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I'm looking forward to when this moves into a discussion of callipers and their accuracy, OP will need to make sure all his apples trees have diameters within .001 for the work he's doing.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:18
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I'm looking forward to when this moves into a discussion of callipers and their accuracy, OP will need to make sure all his apples trees have diameters within .001 for the work he's doing. Gaze into the abyss: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3902892&pagenumber=10&perpage=40
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Apr 9, 2020 18:02
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