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I. M. Gei posted:One of my 4x4s is stuck to the wall. Somehow two of the lag screws holding it up broke inside of it, they’re both buried too deep for me to pull them out, and the wood is too close to the wall for me to be able to get at them with bolt cutters or a saw. Sawzall and an 18" demo blade works like a champ. You can bend the blade a shocking amount and still get it to cut good. They're basically jobsite fuckup erasers for anything held together with nails or screws. You can work the blade between just about anything if you rock it back and forth while cutting. Or you can use a wonder-bar or other nail removing prybar to remove them. Dig the prybar under the screw head to put tension on it, then just back the screw out.
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Apr 19, 2020 11:48
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Crowbar would be my go-to if you don't have a sawzall, yeah. If you don't have access to the screw head, you can still just muscle the entire 4x4 off. Stick a piece of scrap wood next to the 4x4 to give the crowbar something to pivot against that isn't your wall -- the scrap will distribute force enough to avoid damaging the wall. But why do you need to take it down? Wasn't sticking the 4x4s to the wall the point of this exercise?
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Apr 19, 2020 14:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Crowbar would be my go-to if you don't have a sawzall, yeah. If you don't have access to the screw head, you can still just muscle the entire 4x4 off. Stick a piece of scrap wood next to the 4x4 to give the crowbar something to pivot against that isn't your wall -- the scrap will distribute force enough to avoid damaging the wall.
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Apr 19, 2020 14:39
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Hole saw centered over the broken screw (without the centre guiding bit) unless you can pry the whole thing off with a crowbar.Slugworth posted:Calling it now - They were off by an eighth of an inch over forty feet. Fucken lol.
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Apr 19, 2020 14:44
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cakesmith handyman posted:Hole saw centered over the broken screw (without the centre guiding bit) unless you can pry the whole thing off with a crowbar. The hole saws I'm familiar with have a depth of cut of maybe 1", so they can't cut through even a 2x4 without having to approach the cut from both sides of the board. There's no way they'll be able to drill around a screw in a 4x4. Are there hole saws with vastly larger depths of cut?
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Apr 19, 2020 14:52
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:But why do you need to take it down? Wasn't sticking the 4x4s to the wall the point of this exercise? Slugworth posted:Calling it now - They were off by an eighth of an inch over forty feet. If only that was all that was wrong... No, I have to move it a whole foot down, or else the entire frame won’t fit on the wall at all because it turns out I forgot to measure where my roof overhang was when I drew up my plans. 
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Apr 19, 2020 17:05
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So, protip for next time: before you go cutting things or sticking things to the wall, use a 2x4 or other stick to lay out your plan in situ. Just kind of hold it up about where you're planning to put the real thing, and do that for as much of the project as you can before you start the "real" work. Plans rarely survive contact with the work site unaltered, so this helps you figure out what you need to change before changing it becomes a massive pain.
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Apr 19, 2020 17:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Are there hole saws with vastly larger depths of cut? Yeah. But I think what cakesmith meant was to just take out enough material where he can get on the head of the sunken bolt. I think a regular bit going round the edge of the lag bolt head would also do this, while removing less material.
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Apr 19, 2020 17:58
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This is one of the few good uses for oscillating multi-tools as well, if there's no gap to slip even a recip blade through the multi-tool can just cut its own small slot on its way to cutting the screw/nail while leaving most the piece intact. Not that I'd expect you to have one laying around or this to justify buying one. I'd be a little worried about prying it out honestly if we're really talking lags into the structure of the house, I'd say just drill them out.
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Apr 19, 2020 18:15
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Just bear in mind two things when it comes to drills 1 drilling bolts is hard work and I'd personally aim to remove wood rather than metal 2 if you are cutting away the wood then a drill is the wrong tool for anything except drilling holes. The flutes on the side look sharp but they're for clearing chips, not cutting, and putting side load on the drill bit can damage the bearings in your drill.
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Apr 19, 2020 18:25
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You know even outside the contiguous 48 a regular ol 4x4 is only like like $12 at the local Home Depot, maybe just call it a loss and cut it up instead of risk damaging the side of your house, ruining a drill bit, or buying new tools?
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Apr 19, 2020 18:36
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I. M. Gei posted:One of my 4x4s is stuck to the wall. Somehow two of the lag screws holding it up broke inside of it, they’re both buried too deep for me to pull them out, and the wood is too close to the wall for me to be able to get at them with bolt cutters or a saw. I might be missing something here, but can you remove the other screws, remove the 4x4 and then just get a pair of pliers on whats left of the broken screws? If the threads from the broken screws are holding the 4x4 in place, just drill down beside the broken screws to open up the hole. After some fiddling, you should have the holes big enough that the screw threads won't hold it in place any more.
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Apr 19, 2020 19:08
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So, protip for next time: before you go cutting things or sticking things to the wall, use a 2x4 or other stick to lay out your plan in situ. Just kind of hold it up about where you're planning to put the real thing, and do that for as much of the project as you can before you start the "real" work. Plans rarely survive contact with the work site unaltered, so this helps you figure out what you need to change before changing it becomes a massive pain. This is good advice and has been good advice for several millennia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storey_pole quote:A storey pole (or story pole, storey rod,[1] story stick,[2] jury stick,[3] scantling,[4] scantillon[5]) is a length of narrow board usually cut to the height of one storey.[6] It is used as a layout tool for any kind of repeated work in carpentry including stair-building, framing, timber framing, siding, brickwork, and setting tiles. The pole is marked for the heights from (usually) the floor platform of a building for dimensions such as window sill heights, window top heights (or headers), exterior door heights (or headers), interior door heights, wall gas jet heights (for gas lamps) and the level of the next storey joists. It makes for quick, repeatable measurements without the need of otherwise calibrated measuring devices or workers skilled in using them.
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Apr 19, 2020 21:19
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Elem7 posted:You know even outside the contiguous 48 a regular ol 4x4 is only like like $12 at the local Home Depot, maybe just call it a loss and cut it up instead of risk damaging the side of your house, ruining a drill bit, or buying new tools? Have you read anything this poster previously posted?
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Apr 19, 2020 23:53
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I. M. Gei posted:One of my 4x4s is stuck to the wall. Somehow two of the lag screws holding it up broke inside of it, they’re both buried too deep for me to pull them out, and the wood is too close to the wall for me to be able to get at them with bolt cutters or a saw. No great options, but hole saw around the lag screw?
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Apr 20, 2020 00:59
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Carefully disassemble the house from the other side to access the back of the lag bolt.
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Apr 20, 2020 09:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:So, protip for next time: before you go cutting things or sticking things to the wall, use a 2x4 or other stick to lay out your plan in situ. Just kind of hold it up about where you're planning to put the real thing, and do that for as much of the project as you can before you start the "real" work. Plans rarely survive contact with the work site unaltered, so this helps you figure out what you need to change before changing it becomes a massive pain. DreadLlama posted:This is good advice and has been good advice for several millennia. I’ll keep this in mind for the future. Thanks! Elem7 posted:You know even outside the contiguous 48 a regular ol 4x4 is only like like $12 at the local Home Depot, maybe just call it a loss and cut it up instead of risk damaging the side of your house, ruining a drill bit, or buying new tools? They’re not even that much around here. They’re more like $7. And I even have my own circ saw now, so I can cut it to size myself this time. I was really hoping to reuse the wood and not have to buy more, but it looks like cutting it up may be the best option at this point. It’s not like it’ll be a ton of effort to replace it anyway.
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Apr 20, 2020 09:13
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I. M. Gei posted:I was really hoping to reuse the wood and not have to buy more, but it looks like cutting it up may be the best option at this point. It’s not like it’ll be a ton of effort to replace it anyway. Squirrel it away and you'll find a use for it somewhere I imagine.
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Apr 20, 2020 10:52
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If you don't have a big ol' pile of scraps waiting for a purpose, then you're probably one of those people who has regular bonfires. (don't burn pressure-treated wood, finished/painted wood, or plywood) Another protip: you're always going to gently caress something up. Buy more supplies than you need, and save the excess for a rainy day. Eventually you'll find that you'll be able to do the occasional odd job without having to go to the hardware store at all!
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Apr 20, 2020 14:37
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I have entire bins of scraps waiting for a good time to do a bonfire.
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Apr 20, 2020 14:57
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have entire bins of scraps waiting for a good time to do a bonfire. Doesn't the UK have an entire night dedicated to that sort of thing?
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Apr 20, 2020 15:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have entire bins of scraps waiting for a good time to do a bonfire. Same. Also, it's never a bad idea to get some extra, standard dimensional lumber while you're at the hardware store (and have a truck/large car handy.) A couple 2x4s, 4x4s, 1x2/1x3 furring strips, and maybe some plywood. If you have a basement, you can store the long stuff in the joist bay of the floor above. Besides the plywood, the basic stuff shouldn't cost you more than $30, and can save you time in running to the store. My backup supply has been getting hit hard as I've been working on random projects during this lockdown.
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Apr 20, 2020 15:15
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Doesn't the UK have an entire night dedicated to that sort of thing? It's true, but last november my garden was in such a state I would've burned down half the street if I'd tried it.
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Apr 20, 2020 15:16
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's true, but last november my garden was in such a state I would've burned down half the street if I'd tried it. Isn't that the point of that dedicated night?
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Apr 20, 2020 17:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Doesn't the UK have Thaaat's better.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:28
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Mr. Mambold posted:Isn't that the point of that dedicated night? Only in the way that the 4th of July is intended for accidentally shooting your neighbours.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:32
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HD has the Ryobi 4 1/2in brushless cordless angle grinder with two batteries for $100 today. In the near future I need to change out the strut towers on my truck which are riveted to the frame with some pretty hefty rivets. Guessing they're about a 1/2 in diameter. Would it be up to the task of cutting the heads off those? Or will I just blow through batteries and should spend the same money or a little less on a Metabo or Bosch corded model.
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Apr 20, 2020 19:59
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Get a corded one. Cordless is for when you've already got a couple grinders. Although get it if you want the batteries and buy a cheap harbor freight corded model to go along with it.
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Apr 20, 2020 20:43
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sanchez posted:HD has the Ryobi 4 1/2in brushless cordless angle grinder with two batteries for $100 today. In the near future I need to change out the strut towers on my truck which are riveted to the frame with some pretty hefty rivets. Guessing they're about a 1/2 in diameter. Would it be up to the task of cutting the heads off those? Or will I just blow through batteries and should spend the same money or a little less on a Metabo or Bosch corded model. Got a link? I can't find that. They're probably 2v batteries, but if even 3v, I'd jump on it.
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Apr 20, 2020 21:16
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coathat posted:Get a corded one. Cordless is for when you've already got a couple grinders. This. The angle grinder is my only cordless tool that chews through multiple batteries in one use.
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Apr 20, 2020 21:21
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Mr. Mambold posted:Got a link? I can't find that. They're probably 2v batteries, but if even 3v, I'd jump on it. Looks like 3Ah batteries: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-1...-P423/311807642
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Apr 20, 2020 21:55
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Thank you chaps, corded it is!
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Apr 20, 2020 22:02
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Rexxed posted:Looks like 3Ah batteries: Out of stock, lmao.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:07
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Just a reminder that these are the best got drat utility knives out there. I've had mine for years and picked up a second one because who doesn't need like 2-3 of these in random places. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-18mm-11-Blade-Folding-Utility-Knife/1001592028
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Apr 20, 2020 23:53
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tater_salad posted:Just a reminder that these are the best got drat utility knives out there. I've had mine for years and picked up a second one because who doesn't need like 2-3 of these in random places. Agreed. When I figured out the part under the blade could be used to scrape drywall edges my mind was blown, chews right through it for those tight fit cuts. I have had it for something like 10y, says patent pending on it.
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Apr 21, 2020 00:38
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I have similar ones under the brand Rolson https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000WDXMYG And yeah, I've got 3 of them.
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Apr 21, 2020 00:45
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Today I learned Husky no longer makes the best utility knife ever, their quick change one. It was fantastic, you put 5 blades in at once, and when one dulled, you'd press a button, pull the blade out, and then retract the knife, and when you extended it back out, there was a new blade on. Made demo jobs where you were cutting a bunch of carpet and drywall a breeze.
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Apr 21, 2020 02:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have entire bins of scraps waiting for a good time to do a bonfire. I have a bin dedicated just to plane shavings to use as fire starters. It's magical
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Apr 21, 2020 02:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does anyone know if anyone makes something like this that isn’t $500? People have replied, but I thought I should throw the Dräger mask into the ring. I’ve got a half mask which I like, but they make full masks too. https://www.draeger.com/en_uk/Products/X-plore-5500 The present state of affairs makes searching on Amazon difficult, but I think the X-plore range is what you want. One point to keep in mind is that while the separate perspex face shields posted are good for impact protection they don’t help with floating dust. It’s not much of an issue normally, but if you’re sanding something like toxic tropical hardwood the dust is very fine and bad news to get in your eyes even floating around.
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Apr 21, 2020 10:53
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DreadLlama posted:This is good advice and has been good advice for several millennia. THis is why we need a Beavis and Butthead sitting on the couch giggling smiley thing.
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Apr 21, 2020 14:27
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