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JEEVES420 posted:That was me too They're awesome! We use them at one of our stores for the Open sign hanging from the top of the 10 foot window. Now our employees don't need to risk life and limb climbing on lobby chairs to stretch out and flip the rocker switch on the side of the sign. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 19:11
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so simple and cheap, such a vast improvement. Hang the key fobs from the blast gates and never forget to open/close again.
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:My Fluke 87v reads 2 or 3ohm when the leads are shorted (no decimals). I tried cleaning the leads but no luck. It also reads 2 or 3 ohm high when measuring resistance. It's highly unusual for them to go out of cal by that amount in my experience. I've got 3x Fluke 87s: 2x 87IIIs, and 1 87V, and none of them have ever been officially calibrated, but all are accurate to <0.1 ohms. I'd wager something has failed in the meter... is the battery fresh? Any cal lab is going to be $100 minimum, plus shipping. I'd be inclined to send it to Fluke. If the meter has failed internally, they might just replace it.
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Jun 8, 2020 19:11
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I say sent it into Fluke too. The probes on my 87V test at 0.2 ohms. I suppose that you could use Relative mode in the meantime?
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Jun 8, 2020 19:14
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I have no need for these in the foreseeable future but I'm curious if anyone's tried these Bora sawhorses (video starts at right timestamp): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60lkKqCguqw&t=52s I think that One Day I'll have a small space to do my dumb projects in, and I'm wondering whether these + a small Paulk workbench top would make for a decent, semi-collapsable work surface.
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Jun 8, 2020 19:31
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Trabant posted:I have no need for these in the foreseeable future but I'm curious if anyone's tried these Bora sawhorses (video starts at right timestamp): Those are cool but I think for $140 I’d rather have 7 of these indestructible little guys: https://www.lowes.com/pd/EBCO-24-in-W-x-29-in-H-Steel-Saw-Horse-1-000-lb-Capacity/3073379 I had no idea tactical woodworking vests were a thing until that video. Now I’m not sure if I need one or not?
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Jun 8, 2020 19:59
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I recently got a shop apron and I absolutely love it Especially now that it's summertime and a shop hoodie is no longer practical
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Jun 8, 2020 20:08
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sharkytm posted:It's highly unusual for them to go out of cal by that amount in my experience. I've got 3x Fluke 87s: 2x 87IIIs, and 1 87V, and none of them have ever been officially calibrated, but all are accurate to <0.1 ohms.  kid sinister posted:I say sent it into Fluke too. The probes on my 87V test at 0.2 ohms. I suppose that you could use Relative mode in the meantime? I've got other multimeters so it's not like I'm without options. I'm curious though if relative mode is even accurate at this point. I guess it's time to dig out a bunch of resistors and start dumping test results into a spreadsheet. Since we're on the topic, anyone have any recommendations for a cheap precise bench top multimeter? That's what I was really after, but I just happened to stumble upon this 87v so I snagged it.
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Jun 8, 2020 20:17
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Check the fuses, your meter has one for the v/ohm/f setting also fluke has a calibration manual on their website if you wanna try diy.
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Jun 8, 2020 23:29
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MRC48B posted:Check the fuses, your meter has one for the v/ohm/f setting Fuses were good. But I just tested them using the meter self test and got some odd results... There are 4 pins in the connectors for each lead. When I touch either of the top two pins with my lead, I get the expected result of 1.002k ohms in the mA jack, and .8 ohm in the A jack with the lead plugged into the V/ohm jack. Interestingly, if I do the same thing except touch the BOTTOM pins in the mA or A jack, I get a flashing "LEAD" error. But that appears to be by design: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWYzAYsLGCU&t=112s
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Jun 9, 2020 00:25
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MRC48B posted:also fluke has a calibration manual on their website if you wanna try diy. If it's the calibration manual I've seen it tells you how to hook it up to the calibration unit.
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Jun 9, 2020 01:58
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https://dam-assets.fluke.com/s3fs-public/8xv_____cmeng0100.pdf Sorry, you are right, you do need a precision current or voltage source, and precision resistance to do a full calibration. still possible, but that 150 is seeming like a better deal if that is really the issue.
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Jun 9, 2020 02:16
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Sockser posted:I recently got a shop apron and I absolutely love it Brand? I've been thinking about getting one. If I'm going to spend all my time in the shop reorganizing tools and never making anything, I might as well play artisan dress up.
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Jun 9, 2020 02:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:I just want to build this glorified shed without spending more on tools than materials and beer Do not speak such heresy in the tools thread.
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Jun 9, 2020 04:11
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Fresh battery, yeah. Cheap and Precise don't exactly go hand in hand. There are plenty of old HP meters with a non-backlit LCDs or dim VFDs for $150 or less, but they'll all need calibration (unless you really luck out). Fluke made a couple of decent ones, maybe a Keithley if you can snag one on eBay. HP 3478A (5.5 digit) HP/Aglient 34401A or 33405A (5.5 digit) Fluke 8800A (5.5) Lots of more expensive options if you need 6.5 digit... or higher. some dude on EEVBlog posted:If I translate "quality bench meter that will last a long time" by Keysight, Fluke, Keithley..., ::edit:: Forgot to mention- Benchtop meters, especially higher-end ones, are unforgiving of mistakes and have some weird limitations. They aren't meant to be used in the field and abused. They'll be fused, but if you gently caress them up, they'll go up in smoke. Most of them also don't measure high currents, and some of them need significant warmup periods to reach their stated accuracies. If you wanna dump your 87v, post it here, someone will probably buy it. I've already got one or I'd be interested. I actually like my 87IIIs because they default to DC current instead of AC like the 87V. I have to swap the V back to DC constantly, as I don't work on AC voltages at all. I've also got an 88, which I like a lot. 0.1% DC Voltage accuracy instead of .05%, but it's a good meter. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 04:20
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Erwin posted:Brand? I've been thinking about getting one. If I'm going to spend all my time in the shop reorganizing tools and never making anything, I might as well play artisan dress up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G7WDS5Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I got Has a snap buckle in the back rather than needing to tie it which is quite nice, padded shoulders, two hammer loops, two hip pockets The breast pocket is a little fucky but it works well enough for holding a pencil
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Jun 9, 2020 05:07
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drat the Ryobi 18v+ impact driver and the impact wrench are scary powerful the first time coming from 12v systems. Was amazing to have whizzing off the nuts when doing wheel swaps though.
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Jun 9, 2020 05:25
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sharkytm posted:Cheap and Precise don't exactly go hand in hand. There are plenty of old HP meters with a non-backlit LCDs or dim VFDs for $150 or less, but they'll all need calibration (unless you really luck out). Fluke made a couple of decent ones, maybe a Keithley if you can snag one on eBay. I should say that by precise I mean like 2 decimal places. I think I've stumbled upon the HP 3478A before. I've watched EEV blog tear into a 3457A before I'm sure. Thanks for the recommendation.
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Jun 9, 2020 06:11
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MrOnBicycle posted:drat the Ryobi 18v+ impact driver and the impact wrench are scary powerful the first time coming from 12v systems. Was amazing to have whizzing off the nuts when doing wheel swaps though. I bought one of the older non brushless impact wrenches in about 2012/2013 and it's served its purpose countless times. Cuts down a tyre change to about 5 mins including jacking up and down. I got one of their smaller impact drivers a couple years ago in the brushless variety and it's fantastic. Makes short work when I'm doing fastened joinery or putting together a Flatpack or something.
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Jun 9, 2020 08:34
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Hexigrammus posted:Do not speak such heresy in the tools thread. Sorry that should have been in the beer thread Speaking of Ryobi impacts I've got the 3 speed wrench and it comes with a 1/2" to hex adapter, do they really expect you to drive screws with this thing? Because I will, if that's an option.
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Jun 9, 2020 08:53
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I’ve had a HF plug in impact wrench for a couple years. I realized just how pathetic it was after I got a ridgid 1/2 cordless. Night and day. I’ll probably just donate the old one to goodwill to free up its space in the tool box.
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Jun 9, 2020 12:54
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Trabant posted:I have no need for these in the foreseeable future but I'm curious if anyone's tried these Bora sawhorses (video starts at right timestamp): I bought a pair of similarly designed sawhorses a couple years ago: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TOUGHBUILT-42-4-in-W-x-28-8-in-H-Steel-Sawhorse-and-Jobsite-Table-1100-lb-Capacity-TB-C550/205870368 They work well, but admittedly I've only moved them around a couple times and mostly used them as table legs to rest my chopsaw on.
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Jun 9, 2020 13:53
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I bought a cheap die grinder from HF, should it leak air all the time, even if it isn't running? It does work pretty well when there is pressure but it uses a ton of air. Claims 3CFM on the box which is ridiculously optimistic or mine is using a lot more air than is normal. I was thinking about trying something else. What's a quality air tool brand that isn't super expensive? Looks like I can get IR or snapon for around $40-50 used This is the one I got: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-angle-die-grinder-32046.html e: I guess it probably wasn't supposed to leak all the time because I got a slightly more expensive one and it does not. taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 18:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:Sorry that should have been in the beer thread Sure, why not?
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Jun 9, 2020 18:57
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My M12 stuff came in today and man are they some solid built tools. Like much nicer than I expected. Can't wait to give them a test drive, time to find a project.
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Jun 10, 2020 03:58
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I am pretty sure that the M12 Fuel Impact Driver is stronger than the Ryobi 18V.
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Jun 10, 2020 06:02
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deimos posted:I am pretty sure that the M12 Fuel Impact Driver is stronger than the Ryobi 18V. Ryobi 1,600 in lbs M12 fuel 1,300 in. lbs M18 fuel is 1,600 in lbs Ryobi has always been pretty decent home user stuff. I'm sure there's other factors at play as well, but I'd take the Milwaukee on up time vs overheating and battery life.
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Jun 10, 2020 06:26
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Need to remember with Ryobi they usually have at least 2 or 3 different versions of every tool from garbage tier brushed motor models using tech 5 years out of date to brushless models that're equivalent to mid-range models from the "pro" manufacturers. Sometimes they even sneak through tools more powerful than the Milwaukee equivalents.
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Jun 10, 2020 06:45
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My dad bought a Ryobi plug-in drill in the early 90's and it built several decks, pergolas, and hung drywall in an entire house, and several other projects as well. It's still going as far as I know. I had the set of blue NiCd Ryobi tools. Despite the short battery life, the drill and driver and sawzall handled a number of my own projects. I even drilled out some rusted solid through many Northeast winters tie rod ends. I've got a current model Ryobi compound miter saw. It cuts straight and feels as solid as anything. It's completely accurate in most cases, but gets a little wobbly at full extension - but if you're doing a compound miter cut 18" out, you'd probably be better off with a table saw.
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Jun 10, 2020 07:09
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taqueso posted:I bought a cheap die grinder from HF, should it leak air all the time, even if it isn't running? It does work pretty well when there is pressure but it uses a ton of air. Claims 3CFM on the box which is ridiculously optimistic or mine is using a lot more air than is normal. I was thinking about trying something else. What's a quality air tool brand that isn't super expensive? Looks like I can get IR or snapon for around $40-50 used No, it shouldn't, but my experience with cheap air tools is that not working at all is usually more of a concern than any leaks. Not sure if this might be part of your air volume issue, but compressor manufacturers lie through their teeth about their compressors. This video was an aha moment for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfjSm_ieRkE
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Jun 10, 2020 08:14
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FogHelmut posted:My dad bought a Ryobi plug-in drill in the early 90's and it built several decks, pergolas, and hung drywall in an entire house, and several other projects as well. It's still going as far as I know. If your Ryobi tools are the ones with the post on the battery (not the sliding batteries) they'll take the new lithium batteries and seem like brand-new tools.
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Jun 10, 2020 08:26
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I'm slowly working on replacing my leftover ni-cad post batteries with lithium. I needed a Recip saw so I got the recip and 2 battery kit so I can kick 2 more nicads to the curb.
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Jun 10, 2020 15:16
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wandler20 posted:My M12 stuff came in today and man are they some solid built tools. Like much nicer than I expected. Can't wait to give them a test drive, time to find a project. I highly recommend the m12 jigsaw if you are in the market.
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Jun 10, 2020 16:37
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cakesmith handyman posted:If your Ryobi tools are the ones with the post on the battery (not the sliding batteries) they'll take the new lithium batteries and seem like brand-new tools. I ended up selling them and buying a Black and Decker set, as it was cheaper than buying new lithium batteries, and they were much lighter and smaller. Those lasted about 4 years until I burned out the Black and Decker drill while drilling 2" hole saw holes through a 2x6. Exploded on like the 3rd hole. That made me angry so I bought 18v Milwaukee Fuel drill/driver combo. I got the set on eBay for over $100 cheaper than Home Depot, but oddly was sent in a Home Depot box. Then I was putting together Ikea and realized that the 18v drill was too heavy and powerful for that poo poo even with the lowest torque setting. But I was so impressed with the build quality and feel of Milwaukee, I bought the 12v brushed Milwaukee screwdriver and 3rd party batteries. Thank you for reading my drill history.
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Jun 10, 2020 17:01
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Hubis posted:I highly recommend the m12 jigsaw if you are in the market. It looks really nice but I have a 20v Dewalt that works great and made using a jigsaw a breeze compared to the lovely old Craftsman one I had.
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Jun 10, 2020 17:06
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FogHelmut posted:Thank you for reading my drill history. Enchanting, a cordless rollercoaster from start to finish. A+
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Jun 10, 2020 17:33
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I've been using a corded drill for years. I justttt got my first set. Never had an impact driver, but goddamn this thing is awesome. The drill rules too. Big thumbs up on the Makita 18v set. Came with 2 batteries too. I built some steps, re-did some shop shelves, and set up some other random poo poo.
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Jun 10, 2020 19:00
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/makita-xsr01pt-18v-circular-saw-kit socketwrencher posted:It really depends on your needs. If you're cutting a lot of sheet goods freehand it's easier to cut straight with a rear handle saw, it's more stable. The added power with 36v helps with 3/4" plywood especially. If you bevel cut or rip 2x material with any regularity, the 7.25" blade is better than the 6.5" on the 18v. So I did end up getting this. It came the other day, had a chance to use it today. The new saw absolutely glides like butter through plywood. The difference in power is very noticeable. Also stops on a dime when you release the trigger. It's a bit too heavy to use for crosscutting 2x4's though. It can be done, but the old (smaller) one is better at that for me. (It's also entirely possible I just need more practice, but it's hard to hold the speed square and use the big one at the same time. Probably if I was a pro I would forgo the speed square and just get better at cutting straight, then this would be better.) Good tool to have in the arsenal, and getting 4 batteries and the dual charger... no regrets at all.
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Jun 10, 2020 21:36
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Home Depot is doing that same deal right now, I haven't had any problems with my current Ryobi saw but I really need more Makita batteries and another charger and $250 would usually just get you those batteries. Guess I'm getting another circular saw. Anyone have experience using open-ended ratcheting wrenches? The concept sounds super useful but online reviews seem to indicate they're super weak defeating the purpose, I'm wondering if that's a universal truth or just brand dependent. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 22:47
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Those are cool but I think for $140 I’d rather have 7 of these indestructible little guys: Good point, although those seem to lack the "insert 2x4 for additional stability" capability. That's kind of what I'm thinking might be the killer feature for me if I use them for a collapsible bench. Nevets posted:I bought a pair of similarly designed sawhorses a couple years ago: Nice -- and so much cheaper than the Bora!
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Jun 11, 2020 01:04
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Trabant posted:Good point, although those seem to lack the "insert 2x4 for additional stability" capability. That's kind of what I'm thinking might be the killer feature for me if I use them for a collapsible bench. You can still screw a 2x to the top (there are already holes drilled) and then screw another 2x into the endgrain of the 2xs you just screwed to the top and do p. much the same thing Source: I have done this many times when I needed a temporary work surface and laying a piece of ply between 2 horses was too flimsy.
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Jun 11, 2020 02:18
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