Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Spookydonut
Sep 13, 2010

"Hello alien thoughtbeasts! We murder children!"
~our children?~
"Not recently, no!"
~we cool bro~

Jaded Burnout posted:

The other bit that feels weird to me is that I'm typically pushing the largest piece towards the fence to keep everything aligned and stable, but doing that when it's on the other side of the blade feels like it could get squirrelly near the end of the cut.

just featherboard the poo poo out of everything

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I got a grr-ripper and it’s been pretty sweet for otherwise more-sketchy stuff.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


I'm not sure what configuration of featherboard I could use to improve things here. Mitre gauge is what I was thinking too, but what I might do is use a magnetic stop block and cut from the side I normally cut from, so that way I can avoid having to calculate each cut.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Leperflesh posted:

Unfortunately, Bolsonaro thinks destroying the Amazon (and especially the native peoples still living in it) is not just OK, but should be actively encouraged.
https://www.reuters.com/article/us-brazil-environment/deforestation-in-brazils-amazon-surges-bolsonaro-readies-troops-idUSKBN22K1U1
And now he's using the illegal logging as an excuse to deploy troops. Dude's a Trumplike posturing right-wing moron and the situation is dire.

I wouldn't buy any Brazilian-sourced wood right now. The corruption is severe and I wouldn't trust any particular certification. But I think you're generally right that there are sustainable sources, and that we can seek them out, and it's good to encourage others; but the large wood consumers are in construction and we have to get them to change or there's not much hope, your home hobbyist buying 100 board feet of something sustainable isn't going to make enough of an impact.

Well, he's got covid-19 now, so, umm, there's that?

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Bad Munki posted:

Awesome poo poo

I love posts like these. They're the reason I come here.

Your desk is awesome. You are crazy. Just like all of us. And now I need more pipe clamps...

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

So the new place that my SO and I moved into had an extremely ugly mantle above the fireplace.

(this is the staging photo)



Rather than replace it completely I figured I'd take a shot at cleaning up the hunk of scrap wood they'd shoved up there.


So far I've stripped all of the paint on top of it and sanded it down with 80 grit. One of the issues I've had so far though is that in the process I've discovered that the wood has a lot of unsightly black marks on it.





I read online that these might be iron stains, which can be removed with a coat of barkeeper's friend or bleach. The photos above are from this morning after having wiped off the second try with BKF with a wet rag. It seems to have helped, but they're still pretty prominent.


I'm planning on ultimately finishing the whole thing a with a water-based translucent cedar stain, so I'm worried about those black marks really coming forward in an unsightly way at the end.

Any advice from here?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



You've turned poo poo into gold with character. That's what the dings and marks are. Just move on and finish it.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah I completely agree, those marks look great and are character and they tell a story about the history of that hunk of wood.

I'm more annoyed at the dent marks from the strapping or whatever crushed that corner in one spot, I don't think that looks especially good but I've got no idea how to fix it so I'd probably just leave that be as well.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Okay! A few more rounds of sanding, cleaning, sanding, touchups and staining and here are the results!





And then mounted (ignore the wall-"art" that's just a placeholder for now until we can find something that fits):



ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

I actually preferred it with the black marks :)

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

ImplicitAssembler posted:

I actually preferred it with the black marks :)


Well that's just how it looked wet, the extra round of sanding was just 180 grit and a touch-up. I don't think it removed any of the black marks, it just turns out the stain didn't highlight them very much.


e: This morning in better light and after I polished it they came out a bit better

I really don't know much about staining/polishing wood at all though so overall I just used what was on hand. I know it's RBS, but I didn't feel like I had the expertise to try something else and end up with something nice looking.

El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 10, 2020

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Sorta woodworking related. Renovated a drawknife, one of two from my grandmothers place.

Started with electrolysis for rust removal.


Removed most of the dirt from the handles, see the other for an example of what they both looked like.


Stained the handles and blackened the ferrules using a blow torch and oil dip.




Then I just needed to start using it. Pine sap gets everywhere! I feel like I need to bathe in isoproply alcohol.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

You guys got any idea on the age/origin/wood of this thing? Family heirloom bed that I am getting rid of because it's kinda impractical, not terribly comfortable and way too big for this house...




Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

Nettle Soup posted:

You guys got any idea on the age/origin/wood of this thing? Family heirloom bed that I am getting rid of because it's kinda impractical, not terribly comfortable and way too big for this house...






No offense, but you could probably do with a few more pictures of the hardware, screws, bolts, and any writing or labels, and close-ups of the grain.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

https://imgur.com/a/qS6uLl6

Sure, there's more here.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns



20th century, probably the 2nd half, but maybe from the 20s/30s. Almost certainly factory made. Looks like walnut veneer, maybe cherry, maybe mahogany, maybe just about anything stained brown.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

Ok, later than I thought then! I was thinking late Victorian. Thanks! Probably 30s, from what my mum told me about it, so that's what I'll list it as.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Nettle Soup posted:

Ok, later than I thought then! I was thinking late Victorian. Thanks! Probably 30s, from what my mum told me about it, so that's what I'll list it as.
Ehhh, it could be older than I think. Might be Edwardian. The fact that the veneer on the headboard is in such good shape makes me think it’s probably laid on plywood which is a big part of what’s making me think it’s 20th. C. It’s really hard to tell without physically seeing it in person, and you’re pictures aren’t stellar.

Fake edit: a little google shows Vono was formed in 1896, but I doubt that bed is that old. They were a British company. I can’t quite tell if they made whole beds or just the metal fittings and mattress springs. If there’s family history with it, I think 1920’s/30s is very reasonable.

E2: looking closer at the pictures and the fact that’s it’s British I am more inclined to lean towards it being mahogany than cherry or walnut.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



El Mero Mero posted:

Well that's just how it looked wet. Turns out the stain didn't highlight them very much.


e: This morning in better light and after I polished it they came out a bit better

I really don't know much about staining/polishing wood at all though so overall I just used what was on hand. I know it's RBS, but I didn't feel like I had the expertise to try something else and end up with something nice looking.

It looks good but those stainless brackets hurt my eyes. Probably just my take....

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



His Divine Shadow posted:

Sorta woodworking related. Renovated a drawknife, one of two from my grandmothers place.

Then I just needed to start using it. Pine sap gets everywhere! I feel like I need to bathe in isoproply alcohol.



Nice. Can you source disposable paper hospital coveralls? We called them bunny suits. I took a few home instead of trashing them for jobs like that.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

Mr. Mambold posted:

It looks good but those stainless brackets hurt my eyes. Probably just my take....

I agree. I think it would look better without. But it's miles better than what it was previously.

Nettle Soup
Jan 30, 2010

Oh, and Jones was there too.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Ehhh, it could be older than I think. Might be Edwardian. The fact that the veneer on the headboard is in such good shape makes me think it’s probably laid on plywood which is a big part of what’s making me think it’s 20th. C. It’s really hard to tell without physically seeing it in person, and you’re pictures aren’t stellar.

Fake edit: a little google shows Vono was formed in 1896, but I doubt that bed is that old. They were a British company. I can’t quite tell if they made whole beds or just the metal fittings and mattress springs. If there’s family history with it, I think 1920’s/30s is very reasonable.

E2: looking closer at the pictures and the fact that’s it’s British I am more inclined to lean towards it being mahogany than cherry or walnut.

Yeah, I wasn't sure on if they just made the fittings or not either. Mahogany is what it was always told to me as. The plywood thing would make sense, but there's no veneer chipped off so I can't see what it's laid over. :v:

Wish I could keep it, but it has to go.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

I'd like to set up a shop area in my basement, but what I am reading about dust collection is making me wonder if it's a bad idea. I am in the "I bought a power tool and would like to learn how to use it" category of hobbyist, so I don't know how much woodworking I will actually end up doing. I was going to take some classes but then coronavirus happened. A lot of what I see when googling dust collection is way over my head and out of my price range. But just running the shopvac in my poorly ventilated basement seems like it might be a bad plan even for occasional work. Would anyone have some advice or resources aimed at someone like me?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




A shop vac will take you pretty drat far

I’m still running a shop vac on my big honkin sawstop and it’s less than ideal but it still works

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I used a shop vac in my unfinished basement with poor ventilation for a while until getting the harbor freight dust collector. Never had any problems.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

Trillian posted:

I'd like to set up a shop area in my basement, but what I am reading about dust collection is making me wonder if it's a bad idea. I am in the "I bought a power tool and would like to learn how to use it" category of hobbyist, so I don't know how much woodworking I will actually end up doing. I was going to take some classes but then coronavirus happened. A lot of what I see when googling dust collection is way over my head and out of my price range. But just running the shopvac in my poorly ventilated basement seems like it might be a bad plan even for occasional work. Would anyone have some advice or resources aimed at someone like me?

I use a shopvac in my basement. Keep the shop away from your furnace, use a cyclone (the home depot Dustopper works fine and is cheap) and actually hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it. I do big sanding jobs outside if I can, but otherwise everything is fine.

anatomi
Jan 31, 2015

His Divine Shadow posted:

Sorta woodworking related. Renovated a drawknife, one of two from my grandmothers place.
Beautiful restoration, man. I love old hand tools. I purchased a nice-looking set of augers the other day; looking forward to spending a day cleaning them up and sharpening them.

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007

So among the various furniture I just got are a bunch of chairs. They're pretty nice, except they have wicker seats that are almost universally destroyed at this point. It seems like it should be easy enough to remove the wicker and put in a proper wooden seat, but I've never done anything remotely like this. I'll get some photos later up in a bit, but I think the chairs are meant to be a set with the table I also got. Family legend says the table is solid oak of some sort, so the chairs might be as well? It certainly weighs enough that I'd believe it is solid oak.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

more falafel please posted:

hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it.

This is where having a 3d printer is amazing, I have printed so many dust collector adapters.

A shop vac works fine the only real trade off is capacity and that you have to drag it around with you to each tool you want to use and empty it more often.

I use a shop vac on my CNC in the dining room FWIW.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Also amazon has every kind of adapter you can think of or need, but you do have to pay attention to interior vs. exterior diameters of stuff if you want them to actually stick to each other properly.


wandler20 posted:

I agree. I think it would look better without. But it's miles better than what it was previously.

I'm in this camp too. Love the wood, hate the brackets.


Nettle Soup posted:

Yeah, I wasn't sure on if they just made the fittings or not either. Mahogany is what it was always told to me as. The plywood thing would make sense, but there's no veneer chipped off so I can't see what it's laid over. :v:

Wish I could keep it, but it has to go.

Haul it to the stockpile and sell it to the next caravan, just don't try to offer it to elves.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

more falafel please posted:

I use a shopvac in my basement. Keep the shop away from your furnace, use a cyclone (the home depot Dustopper works fine and is cheap) and actually hook it up to every tool. This is annoying because literally every tool has slightly different fittings, but it's worth it. I do big sanding jobs outside if I can, but otherwise everything is fine.

I appreciate all the replies. I'm glad that you guys think that's fine. I have one more probably dumb question, while I am at it: I can't avoid having the shop space near my boiler. The boiler air intake is outside, though, which I think is the primary concern. How well do I need to close it off from the shop space?

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
Some recent marquetry work, still need to press it to a panel then make something with it. This is going to be a box exterior and lid interior.





El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

Mr. Mambold posted:

It looks good but those stainless brackets hurt my eyes. Probably just my take....

No that's a good point. Here they are before:




and now painted:

El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jul 10, 2020

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Meow Meow Meow posted:

Some recent marquetry work, still need to press it to a panel then make something with it. This is going to be a box exterior and lid interior.


:eyepop: I do this a lot with tile and stone but I love to see it in wood

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM

Meow Meow Meow posted:

Some recent marquetry work, still need to press it to a panel then make something with it. This is going to be a box exterior and lid interior.







:stare: amazing work man

Are you doing these with a laser cutting or something? By hand?

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Super Waffle posted:

:stare: amazing work man

Are you doing these with a laser cutting or something? By hand?

Thanks, it's all cut by hand. If you click the question mark to see my post history i did a little tutorial a while back on how i do it. I find it very relaxing, almost meditative.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?

Meow Meow Meow posted:

Thanks, it's all cut by hand. If you click the question mark to see my post history i did a little tutorial a while back on how i do it. I find it very relaxing, almost meditative.

You do just amazing work man, and you didn't even make a dead butterfly!

Olothreutes
Mar 31, 2007


This is astonishingly pretty. I'm very impressed.

Also I think I understand the thread title now.



Olothreutes posted:

So among the various furniture I just got are a bunch of chairs. They're pretty nice, except they have wicker seats that are almost universally destroyed at this point. It seems like it should be easy enough to remove the wicker and put in a proper wooden seat, but I've never done anything remotely like this. I'll get some photos later up in a bit, but I think the chairs are meant to be a set with the table I also got. Family legend says the table is solid oak of some sort, so the chairs might be as well? It certainly weighs enough that I'd believe it is solid oak.

Here's one of the chairs in question, the wicker in this one is probably the most in tact of them all. It looks like there's a seam in there that holds the wicker over a bit of the frame wood, it might be possible to remove the wicker and then set a new seat on that lip? I'm sure there are a bunch of other ways I'm not thinking of.



Click for more.

Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jul 10, 2020

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?

El Mero Mero posted:

No that's a good point. Here they are before:




and now painted:



Much better, good choice.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Olothreutes posted:

This is astonishingly pretty. I'm very impressed.

Also I think I understand the thread title now.


Here's one of the chairs in question, the wicker in this one is probably the most in tact of them all. It looks like there's a seam in there that holds the wicker over a bit of the frame wood, it might be possible to remove the wicker and then set a new seat on that lip? I'm sure there are a bunch of other ways I'm not thinking of.



Click for more.

Those are indeed oak. What you are calling wicker is usually called caning and that may help your googling-those are caned chair seats. You can get the caning in sheets and replace it if you want. There is usually a spline that you pound into a groove that holds it together, or sometimes the caning goes in little holes all around. You can probably buy the splines too. You could add an upholstered slip seat or something on top of that, but it may wind up being higher than is comfortable. Maybe set a pillow on top of one and see if it feels right. I’m not sure a flat wooden seat would be all that comfortable, but a stick a board across the top and see how it sits.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply