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I'd add that if a riving knife is causing an issue with a rip cut, it's because it's badly adjusted/bent/oversized for the blade or you should absolutely not be making that cut. If there are binding problems, that wood shouldn't be anywhere near a rip cut on a table saw. Also yeah, the quality of life improvement over a real riving knife that's below the top of the blade and lifts/lowers with the blade over a splitter can't be overstated. It's so much nicer. Also also, shark guard retrofits literally any saw ever made for an easily adjustable splitter. It's expensive, but they'll make it.
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Jul 13, 2020 22:09
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Speaking of riving knives, I’ve recently inherited a bunch of my dad’s power tools, including this Craftsman tablesaw. It has no blade guard or riving knife installed and so I’ve been a bit terrified to use it. I’ve found the blade guard in a pile of junk in the shed, but it’s a bit bent and I’m not sure if I can bend it back true enough to work. And I’ve had no luck at all finding a riving knife, or even finding if it’s possible to retrofit one onto it. Does anybody know if it’s possible? I’d like to use his stuff when it gets cool enough outside to do woodworking, but I’ve watched enough kickbacks on YouTube to know that I have no interest in using a tablesaw without the proper safety gear installed.
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Jul 14, 2020 02:53
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Khizan posted:Speaking of riving knives, I’ve recently inherited a bunch of my dad’s power tools, including this Craftsman tablesaw. Shark Guard https://www.thesharkguard.com/product/rear-mounted-guards/
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Jul 14, 2020 03:24
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I just bought a house so I'll be able to upsize my shop from the 5' x 10' utility room corner I've been using in my rental. I'm super pumped to be able to make furniture again after two years of strictly making boxes. I sold all my stationary tools a few months ago when my in-laws sold their farm where I was storing them, which means I'm on the hunt for some new equipment. Does anyone here have a combo jointer/planer and can offer some thoughts? Im also leaning towards a short stroke euro style sliding tablesaw, does anyone have any experiences to share?
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Jul 15, 2020 01:30
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I'm planning to buy this https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/karlby-countertop-oak-veneer-70335207/ to make a computer desk. Are there any alternatives I should consider? The desk needs to be shared by 2 people on a computer, so that was the best I could find.
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Jul 15, 2020 16:21
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm planning to buy this https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/karlby-countertop-oak-veneer-70335207/ to make a computer desk. Are there any alternatives I should consider? The desk needs to be shared by 2 people on a computer, so that was the best I could find. What is your tool situation like and your willingness to build stuff? Is cost more important than looks, or vice versa? What is your legs/stretchers/aprons plan for that slab?
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Jul 15, 2020 16:25
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Huxley posted:What is your tool situation like and your willingness to build stuff? Is cost more important than looks, or vice versa? What is your legs/stretchers/aprons plan for that slab? I don't have any tools right now, but I could borrow a few things from friends and family. I have some wood working experience from having helped build sheds and the like. Only caveat is I'm moving into a new house, and I want something quick and easy. I haven't picked up any specific legs yet but I am open to suggestions. I would love to add a few pencil drawers under the table. I basically have something similar to this desk. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/micke-desk-white-90214308/ which has served me really well, but it's beginning to sag in the middle, and I need something stronger. I'd like the desk to have room for 2 computer chairs, so me and the SO could share the same computer desk.
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Jul 15, 2020 16:56
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If you just want something functional, particularly with drawers (which can be tough), there's nothing wrong with just buying Ikea and moving on with your life. Eg, two of these side by side https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/micke-desk-black-brown-10244743/ Solve all your problems for as cheap as that slab. If you want to build something as easily as possible, you could do a 3/4 plywood top over a pipe frame and not need to buy a saw. Pipe gets pricey, though. And making a double-wide desk of pipe is going to weigh roughly a thousand pounds (don't do this, make 2 desks). Your other option is plywood and either prefab legs or 2x4s, 1x4 aprons and a kreg jig. Again, you'll want to build two because "a desk to fit two people" is never going to be as flexible or useful as two of one thing pushed together. All of these options will require some amount of finishing on the top (borrow a round-over bit and a router, then a good sander, then poly or something like it). Huxley fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jul 15, 2020 |
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Jul 15, 2020 17:11
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Huxley posted:If you just want something functional, particularly with drawers (which can be tough), there's nothing wrong with just buying Ikea and moving on with your life. Eg, two of these side by side My current desk is particle board, and I am not happy with how it held up. I figured the countertop would be more sturdy. Would it make for a poor desk? I did find some videos of people doing just this, but I don't know if they know what they're talking about. My current plan is to varnish it, mount some legs on it and secure the thing to the wall with a L bracket to stabilize it. Maybe something like this under it. https://www.amazon.com/Sliding-Under-desk-Organizer-Standing-Desk/dp/B01N47GZFR Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Jul 15, 2020 |
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Jul 15, 2020 17:38
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Bioshuffle posted:My current desk is particle board, and I am not happy with how it held up. I figured the countertop would be more sturdy. Would it make for a poor desk? I did find some videos of people doing just this, but I don't know if they know what they're talking about. Keep in mind the KARLBY is "thick" oak veneer on a particle board core, it is also pre-finished. No idea how thick, thick is, but it is probably fine for desk duties. If you are looking for solid wood something like this from HD is in the same price ranges and is unfinished. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hardwoo...2574C/301812823
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Jul 16, 2020 02:36
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I'm trying to cut shoulders into a slab with an irregular surface, and it's not going great. The mortise itself was reasonably straightforward, but I've never figured out how to get a flat surface with a chisel, which is kind of important for shoulders. Worse, this wood is very prone to tearout, presumably due to having interlocked grain? I know that holding the chisel with the flat side up helps keep it from digging deeper into the wood and allows you to take more consistent shavings off. Where I'm having the most trouble is at the ends, where I need to cut straight down and then across. It's hard to get my body into a good position to apply the chisel, due to the size of the piece. Any advice? My current plan is to cut down enough that each point is level with the point opposite -- you can see I've marked at intervals how far down I have to cut. If the right edge of the slab were perfectly flat, then I'd be done, but instead at that point I'll then need to remove further material to bring everything down to the lowest point, which is the bottom-right corner in this case. Operating without any known flat/straight surfaces makes life surprisingly difficult.
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Jul 16, 2020 16:28
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That is a classic case for getting a hand router plane, if you're open to buying a new hand tool. Or using a power router, if you prefer a power tool. e. The way you'd do it for a rough surface would be to clamp wood around the hole to give you a flat and level reference point, and then route down from that reference point. Some plywood scrap would do.
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Jul 16, 2020 16:38
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Is there a hand router plane that you'd recommend?
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Jul 16, 2020 16:40
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https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/router/52609-veritas-router-plane also watch a bunch of Paul Sellers' router plane videos on Youtube to see how to put a wooden sole onto one, and to see how they work and techniques and stuff. Here's a good one to start with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUyDYbIdq2E here's paul's method for cutting mortise and tenon joints using a router plane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-08PY3stgo Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jul 16, 2020 |
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Jul 16, 2020 16:41
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Is the opposite side of the slab fairly flat? I would probably try using a forstner bit in the drill press to get the bottom of the mortise/shoulder flat and parallel to the other side (presumably the top?) of the slab. Then use a chisel to clean up. This will get you a consistent flat you can then square up with the chisel E: a router on a sled/platform Parallel above the piece would do the same thing if that is easier. I’m not sure a router plane is going to help much here without some kind of similar sled or sole plate, but I haven’t used one much. E2: leperflesh explained that better than I did! Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jul 16, 2020 |
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Jul 16, 2020 17:23
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Could also do a one off router plane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk
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Jul 16, 2020 19:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is the opposite side of the slab fairly flat? I would probably try using a forstner bit in the drill press to get the bottom of the mortise/shoulder flat and parallel to the other side (presumably the top?) of the slab. Then use a chisel to clean up. This will get you a consistent flat you can then square up with the chisel You can do this even if it isnt flat if you're feeling froggy and use some clamps creatively and go slow
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Jul 16, 2020 19:36
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Thanks for the recommendations! I'll research them when I have some spare time. I gather that the router plane basically gives you a blade with a flat sole (-> makes a flat surface in the piece) that you can run into a hole in your workpiece, and that's why it's recommended here? Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is the opposite side of the slab fairly flat? I would probably try using a forstner bit in the drill press to get the bottom of the mortise/shoulder flat and parallel to the other side (presumably the top?) of the slab. Then use a chisel to clean up. This will get you a consistent flat you can then square up with the chisel I was all set to say that the slab is much too wide to fit on my drill press, but I figured I'd be thorough, go take some measurements to prove how impossible it was, and whaddaya know?  It fits. That makes things much easier! I think I'd been reluctant to check because the mental image of wrestling this slab around on the small drill press table was intimidating. But this mortise is right at the center of balance of the table, and the slab doesn't weigh more than 50 pounds I'd guess, so it's not really a problem. I mean, it's awkward, but nothing I can't handle.
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Jul 16, 2020 20:56
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Still clamp that before you do it, things can get fucky on a drill press if you twist at all
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Jul 16, 2020 21:18
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I made a little stool out of the scrap cherry I had left over from last year's dining table build. I wanted to try making a circular thing. It's hard! It turned out OK, definitely looks "hand made" though, haha. I took off the bulk with handsaws, then refined the bevels down into a circle with a spokeshave.
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Jul 16, 2020 22:36
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I love the hard-edged and rough look. Looks like it was chiseled by a giant.
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Jul 17, 2020 10:34
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That stool looks awesome Coldpie. Thought about having a small flatness to the edge so it isn't so angular? I'm thinking about possible damage where it gets so thin. Managed to finish one side of my house of windows. I built the window frames, removed the 70 year old windows, 70 year old siding, and re-wrapped the house, installed windows, siding and trim myself. It's pine, stained red, with two part epoxy lacquer finish.  
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Jul 17, 2020 11:47
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anatomi posted:I love the hard-edged and rough look. Looks like it was chiseled by a giant. Thanks! poopinmymouth posted:That stool looks awesome Coldpie. Thought about having a small flatness to the edge so it isn't so angular? I'm thinking about possible damage where it gets so thin. Yeah, I did knock that edge down with a sanding block before finishing. It's a shop/outdoor stool, so I'm not too worried about it; I'll just call any damage "patina".
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Jul 17, 2020 13:26
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poopinmymouth posted:That stool looks awesome Coldpie. Thought about having a small flatness to the edge so it isn't so angular? I'm thinking about possible damage where it gets so thin. This looks great. I love all the trim detail. A+
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Jul 17, 2020 13:37
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ColdPie posted:I made a little stool out of the scrap cherry I had left over from last year's dining table build. I wanted to try making a circular thing. It's hard! It turned out OK, definitely looks "hand made" though, haha. I took off the bulk with handsaws, then refined the bevels down into a circle with a spokeshave. I'd like to mess around with staked stuff-it seems to simple and easy, but I'm sure it's more complex. Did you taper the holes with a reamer or are they just straight?
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Jul 17, 2020 14:02
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ColdPie posted:I made a little stool out of the scrap cherry I had left over from last year's dining table build. I wanted to try making a circular thing. It's hard! It turned out OK, definitely looks "hand made" though, haha. I took off the bulk with handsaws, then refined the bevels down into a circle with a spokeshave. Clean, would like to sit in that.. speaking of which if you arent in Kaiser Schznitzel's chair thread and you are in this one you're blowing it Gonna cross quote them here so you can click and go learn cool stuff and I wont poo poo up their thread with some pics from my salty old logging bud. He is 93, was the only one cutting Humboldt in the NW and we can STILL go find his stumps. Insane. His saw buck is in a bunch of this books pics. I cant remember if I posted these yet but they are far too cool to not post yearly imo. The guy is so old and salty when they used to call up loggers for fires when they needed someone to take big trees they would line em all up and give em a "bottle a 'shine" each before they sent them out. No water or food just moonshine Click their name and go learn! Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Please do! I love big trees, dead or alive. My great uncle is a forester and spent a while out west in like the 50's/60's when they were still cutting mostly virgin timber and talks about insane stocking rates in dougfir and redwood. 200-300,000 bf per acre when the 100yr old second growth yellow pine he was used to in the southeast might have 30-40,000 bf per acre Hehe I just looked at a pic of 2 guys standing on a 487 year old tree with 38k bf in it. I'll see if I can find some olds one for ya  
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Jul 17, 2020 14:39
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:speaking of which if you arent in Kaiser Schznitzel's chair thread and you are in this one you're blowing it
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Jul 17, 2020 14:58
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Hehe I just looked at a pic of 2 guys standing on a 487 year old tree with 38k bf in it. I'll see if I can find some olds one for ya
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Jul 17, 2020 15:11
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Squibbles posted:Could also do a one off router plane https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk This is the router plane I did, except I didn't really shape the base as much: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FdA0ImXjbI kind of a step above that one, but still pretty cheap and easy to make. Elder Postsman posted:I made a router plane!
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Jul 18, 2020 00:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I love that. Nah, it's exactly as simple as it looks. The only specialized tools you need are the tapered tenon cutter and matching reamer. Lee Valley sells a matching set, I use the 5/8" tenon cutter. Rough cut the tenon, then taper it with the giant pencil sharpener. Lay out and drill your mortise holes, then ream them until the tenon seats correctly. I use a hand drill because I'm a dork, but it works fine in a power drill. The sliding bevel helps with your drilling angle, although to be honest, I've never gotten it completely right. Need more practice. Apply glue, drive in the tenon with a mallet, and you're done. You can backwedge the tenon from the top to give the tenon some extra pressure against the mortise walls while the glue dries. It's all explained in detail in The Anarchist's Design Book, but really, it's straightforward.  
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Jul 18, 2020 00:48
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I'm planning to make a king sized bedframe out of construction lumber (2x12's and 2x4's). If I use 2x4's for the support slats does anyone have thoughts on what kind of spacing I should use? It's for a memory foam mattress. Should I just space them to basically have even spaces? e.g. 3.5" gaps between the boards? We had our mattress on the floor for a few months and found it was getting condensation underneath so I'm concerned if I put the slats too close together it might not have enough airflow to stay dry but I also don't want them so far apart that the mattress sags in between them.
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Jul 18, 2020 02:39
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Yeah that’s about the spacing on every bed I’ve ever owned. Also a 2x4 seems like way overkill for slats in terms of thickness. Commercial beds are about 18mm. Maybe thicker ones won’t need to be flipped as often though...
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Jul 18, 2020 03:03
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I used 1x4s for my bed and they're still way stronger than I need.
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Jul 18, 2020 03:19
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How do they flip? This is important. I bet they flip like a pancake.
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Jul 18, 2020 03:21
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It's just a convenient size to buy. Also I was going to see if I could get away with no center support. Not sure if that would be wise or not though
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Jul 18, 2020 05:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I love that. I made two three legged stools for my kids and I just drilled a straight hole. Drilled with bit and brace and used a sliding bevel to indicate I was drilling the right angle. No special tools required.
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Jul 18, 2020 06:37
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:
That's just sad 
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Jul 18, 2020 06:43
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Squibbles posted:It's just a convenient size to buy. Also I was going to see if I could get away with no center support. Not sure if that would be wise or not though I'd think probably not. You'll bow the slats even if you flip them regularly without one. Just put a center support. It's not like you'll see it and it'll only cost a few dollars.
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Jul 18, 2020 08:49
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Jhet posted:I'd think probably not. You'll bow the slats even if you flip them regularly without one. Just put a center support. It's not like you'll see it and it'll only cost a few dollars. Yeah I think you're right
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Jul 18, 2020 12:35
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ImplicitAssembler posted:That's just sad I am 100% with you, the book (which I will look up when I'm back home) makes a big deal out of the last 10' tree to ever go through the mill. 10' Doug fir would be a monster of a straight tree to see ga drat. It's part of the reason I enjoy keeping a chainsaw in my rig and asking people if they don't mind me grabbing a chunk to carve up whenever I see wood left to rot.
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Jul 18, 2020 15:51
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