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Beardcrumb posted:I was browsing FB marketplace for some offcuts and stumbled onto this. Wild. Yeah that’s some serious jackleg engineering. For $20 though I’d buy it-there’s some good parts in there, just don’t ever actually use it as built.
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Jul 25, 2020 00:33
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah that’s some serious jackleg engineering. For $20 though I’d buy it-there’s some good parts in there, just don’t ever actually use it as built. Either the motor or the pillow blocks in that picture are worth the price if it works. I'd buy it if I had room to dismantle it at the time.
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Jul 25, 2020 02:19
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I posted a few weeks back about mould growing on my tool board from a leak in the roof. Roof leak is (hopefully) fixed and I've finished sanding everything that got mouldy. Took the opportunity to reorganise the tool board too. Replaced some lovely looking screws with nicer wood brackets where I could. Matias had some good ideas - I particularly liked the pliers rack. https://woodgears.ca/tool_holders/ Everything is now coated in a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and turps. Hopefully that's enough to protect everything from ambient moisture. 
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Jul 25, 2020 08:42
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Granite Octopus posted:I posted a few weeks back about mould growing on my tool board from a leak in the roof. Roof leak is (hopefully) fixed and I've finished sanding everything that got mouldy. Took the opportunity to reorganise the tool board too. Replaced some lovely looking screws with nicer wood brackets where I could. Matias had some good ideas - I particularly liked the pliers rack. https://woodgears.ca/tool_holders/ I need to change my pants now. That is amazing. edit: On the topic of tool racks does anyone have pictures of their storage for lathe chisels, I need to make something to hold my huge set now that I have a lathe.
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Jul 25, 2020 12:38
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Beardcrumb posted:I was browsing FB marketplace for some offcuts and stumbled onto this. Wild. That looks like the original table saw of 1804 or some Amish rig. There are combo machines for limited space havers.
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Jul 25, 2020 15:55
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Are there some rules I should follow when using screws in wood? I am making some french cleat shelves and realizing I know nothing about how to use screws with wood other than making a pilot hole.
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Jul 25, 2020 16:14
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Does anyone recommend a project guide for a computer desk? I'm thinking I'd like to build my own.
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Jul 25, 2020 19:49
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ughhhh posted:Are there some rules I should follow when using screws in wood? I am making some french cleat shelves and realizing I know nothing about how to use screws with wood other than making a pilot hole. The more threads you have biting into the wood, the stronger the fastening force...though remember that a significant amount of the force holding a piece up against the wall is the static friction between it and the wall. That is, the biggest job the screw has is to clamp your piece against the wall. That takes load off of the screw shaft, which is strong but brittle. I don't have any rules of thumb for what size of screw to use, or when to switch to lag bolts (beyond "I really don't want this to fall down"). You can find screw strength tables if you look for 'em; I mostly just buy boxes of 1.5" / 2.5" / 3.5" #8 star-drive deck screws and use them for everything.
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Jul 25, 2020 20:18
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Anyone got any recomendations on a router lift / table plate / etc? I'd like to just turn one of the wings of my 15? foot miter station into a router table
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Jul 25, 2020 20:21
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first experiment with making french cleat shelves for my roommate who didnt give me any directions on where or how they wanted a shelf. so i just made the french cleat where they can move the shelf around or add more to their liking:  All i have is a handheld jigsaw and a regular saw so pardon my uneven cut (cutting at 45* is hard), but i think it looks cool in the end. Next step is to finish priming and coating the thing. It doesn't look like it in the pictures, but my spirit level shows both shelves as being level when seated properly.
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Jul 25, 2020 20:35
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ughhhh posted:Are there some rules I should follow when using screws in wood? I am making some french cleat shelves and realizing I know nothing about how to use screws with wood other than making a pilot hole. Follow the instructions on the box of screws, most tell you if they are self-tapping or if you need a pilot hole (and exactly what diameter hole you should make)
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Jul 25, 2020 22:32
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Sockser posted:Anyone got any recomendations on a router lift / table plate / etc? I just ordered a JessEm 02310 for my table saw wing project...or a free standing table I keep flip flopping. Is your miter station against a wall? Seems kinda awkward to have router station against a wall as it limits your movement some.
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Jul 26, 2020 03:00
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JEEVES420 posted:Is your miter station against a wall? Seems kinda awkward to have router station against a wall as it limits your movement some. It is against a wall, but I can't think of any scenario where I'd need all that much room behind the table ?
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Jul 26, 2020 03:09
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I have had to put an edge on some pretty long and curvy pieces that against a wall would of prevented. But you're right, that is kinda rare, depending on what you're normally making.
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Jul 26, 2020 04:02
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Did some work on an outfeed table for my tablesaw today, figured I'd show it off. http://imgur.com/a/H6izMCl In my defense, I'm terribly dumb. (To that end, how do you get an image url off of the imgur mobile app? Why does it get harder to use imgur every 3 months?)
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Jul 26, 2020 04:02
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Your outfeed table is trash. Absolute garbage. And maybe some recycling?
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Jul 26, 2020 04:05
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Bad Munki posted:Your outfeed table is trash. Absolute garbage. And maybe some recycling?
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Jul 26, 2020 07:32
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My chip collection keeps clogging at the intake port. Do chips of this size indicate that I need to sharpen my planer blades? 
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Jul 26, 2020 12:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:My chip collection keeps clogging at the intake port. Do chips of this size indicate that I need to sharpen my planer blades? Clearly it means you need to invest in a helical cutter head to make smaller chips for you
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Jul 26, 2020 12:50
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If my experience with hand planes tells me anything, it's that whenever you ask yourself "should I sharpen this?", the answer is "yes, and a bit sooner too". I don't know much about power thickness planers, or even if it's viable to sharpen them yourself at all, but sharpening can't hurt I guess.
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Jul 26, 2020 12:58
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rt4 posted:Does anyone recommend a project guide for a computer desk? I'm thinking I'd like to build my own. Maybe https://woodgears.ca/student-desk/index.html although Matthias' projects tend to depend on having all the machines available.
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Jul 26, 2020 13:05
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Squibbles posted:Clearly it means you need to invest in a helical cutter head to make smaller chips for you  Just Winging It posted:If my experience with hand planes tells me anything, it's that whenever you ask yourself "should I sharpen this?", the answer is "yes, and a bit sooner too". I don't know much about power thickness planers, or even if it's viable to sharpen them yourself at all, but sharpening can't hurt I guess. They are resharpenable, yeah. This is they: https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-hss-260mm-planer-knives-pkt3-101568 quote:Made from T1 HSS and re-sharpenable many times
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Jul 26, 2020 13:29
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Chips look normal to me. Intake port looks like it's got some weird things inside it to make it catch stuff more easily though
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Jul 26, 2020 13:35
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Jaded Burnout posted:My chip collection keeps clogging at the intake port. Do chips of this size indicate that I need to sharpen my planer blades? Yeah like HDS said it looks like there are some funny nubs on the intake that are catching things. Two other things you can try are taking smaller cuts (shallower depth of cut per pass) and using a slower feed rate if that is adjustable. Feeding one board at a time instead of multiple helps too. I don’t think sharpness is the problem here (if anything dull knives might make smaller chips) but as ballpark, I change my HSS planer knives about once a year. They’re still usually pretty sharp, and I plane plenty of hard oak and maple and sapele. You shouldn’t need to sharpen them after a workbench worth of soft pine. E: I ran my 24”, straight knife planer on a small 1HP Harbor freight Dust collector for a while and it basically did fine as long as I used the slowest feed rate. You should be able to run that machine on that collector without any huge headaches. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jul 26, 2020 |
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Jul 26, 2020 13:51
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I’ve found softer pine make larger chips like that. They tend to clog up my cyclone and hoses heaps quicker because they are so light and whispy. Emptying my buckets well before they are full to keep the suction up seems to help but I think it’s just the type of wood tbh.
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Jul 26, 2020 13:58
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Squibbles posted:Clearly it means you need to invest in a helical cutter head to make smaller chips for you The Powermatic jointer with helical head at my makerspace clogs all the time, the planer on the other hand never does.  Jaded, does your planer actively blow out chips without the dust collector sucking them out? Are the chips "sticky" to the touch? They could just be hitting each other and sticking to the fins in the outlet.
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Jul 26, 2020 15:20
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His Divine Shadow posted:Chips look normal to me. Intake port looks like it's got some weird things inside it to make it catch stuff more easily though Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah like HDS said it looks like there are some funny nubs on the intake that are catching things. JEEVES420 posted:They could just be hitting each other and sticking to the fins in the outlet. That's the outlet from the planer, and those are what I assume are airflow fins, and while they do catch some chips they're not the main problem. The main problem is the inlet on the cyclone (not pictured) which does have an inverted-radiation-symbol-shaped guard on it which I'm loathe to cut off. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Two other things you can try are taking smaller cuts (shallower depth of cut per pass) and using a slower feed rate if that is adjustable. Feeding one board at a time instead of multiple helps too. Depth of cut could be an issue, this was while cutting a lot of material at 2mm DoC. Feed rate isn't adjustable, was feeding one at a time. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t think sharpness is the problem here (if anything dull knives might make smaller chips) but as ballpark, I change my HSS planer knives about once a year. They’re still usually pretty sharp, and I plane plenty of hard oak and maple and sapele. You shouldn’t need to sharpen them after a workbench worth of soft pine. Interesting that you only change them that infrequently. I did give them a bit of a fingertip and paper test and they feel kinda dull to me. JEEVES420 posted:Jaded, does your planer actively blow out chips without the dust collector sucking them out? Are the chips "sticky" to the touch? It doesn't actively blow them out, other than from the spinning of the blade cradle. They're not sticky-feeling. Granite Octopus posted:I’ve found softer pine make larger chips like that. They tend to clog up my cyclone and hoses heaps quicker because they are so light and whispy. Emptying my buckets well before they are full to keep the suction up seems to help but I think it’s just the type of wood tbh. I've been trying to keep on top of it, it's currently only half full, and I think it's largely about them catching at the intake guard and not breaking up.
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Jul 26, 2020 17:54
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This is the underside of the intake. 
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Jul 26, 2020 18:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:This is the underside of the intake. Both dust collectors I've owned (bought used) had that guard cut off, probably because of clogging. Just need to be careful you don't suck up big things that will damage your impeller.
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Jul 26, 2020 18:36
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Jaded Burnout posted:This is the underside of the intake. Jaded Burnout posted:Interesting that you only change them that infrequently. I did give them a bit of a fingertip and paper test and they feel kinda dull to me. I use some fancy swiss TERSA knives because that's what my planer takes, but they are still just HSS. I priced carbide and they're like $800/set, lol. HSS works for me. They really last well and give a good cut but $$$ (like $150/set for HSS?) and not resharpenable. The planer I used at my old shop had cheap-ish disposable knives and we only went about 6 months (but that planer was also only running 2 knives?) with them. Usually the symptoms of dull knives are: 1) Loud as hell-Sounds more like the knives are beating the wood than cutting it 2) Poor surface finish-either lots of tearout or the wood looks very dull. Very sharp knives will leave a shiny, silky finish (but not for long) 3) Small chips-lots of small dusty chips instead of big shavings.
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Jul 26, 2020 21:00
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Those are put there by lawyers to keep your fingers out of the fan and have to be removed by the user ime. DCs will do fine on dust from saws with them on but are hopeless with chips. Sounds like I have a date with a cut-off wheel. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It's possible they didn't come super sharp from the factory? Blades/knives that come with stuff aren't always the best. They are easy enough to lightly touch up in the (unplugged) cutterhead with very fine diamond stones. They also move really really fast and don't have to be as sharp as you might think (think router bits) They *claim* "razor sharp" but who knows. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Setting up joiner knives is a chore so I wouldn't go too crazy. This one seems OK because it's spring loaded and comes with a setting jig, but I guess I won't know until I have to do it. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I use some fancy swiss TERSA knives because that's what my planer takes, but they are still just HSS. I priced carbide and they're like $800/set, lol. HSS works for me. They really last well and give a good cut but $$$ (like $150/set for HSS?) and not resharpenable. The planer I used at my old shop had cheap-ish disposable knives and we only went about 6 months (but that planer was also only running 2 knives?) with them. Seems like HSS is £40 and TCT around £90 for these, but I'm getting good finish with the HSS. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Usually the symptoms of dull knives are: I think it's OK for now. At the very least I'll wait until the workbench is finished, and see what removing the finger guard does. Which, btw, I've already had my fingers whacked by the impeller twice from the other side, though not while it's actively running.
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Jul 26, 2020 21:37
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Father in law had a chainsaw mill attachment (two actually, I took the smaller one and the longer one will make its way here eventually) and I finally got to give it a spin. Holy cow that’s awesome. I was expecting way more sweat and back breaking labor. Instead, it’s just a casual lean forward against the rig and it slowly melts through the log. It surely helps that I have a special ripping chain, but it also hinders that the late 70s/early 80s rancher I put in it is a bit underpowered for the task. Nonetheless, it was fun and easy and I can’t wait to do more. Bummed I got rained out right after finishing my first cut, but it’s ready now and I’m no longer dreading the work. Already thinking about a bigger saw. Aside from more power, a few more inches on the bar would be ace, this was already at my limit.       The two big logs I have here are both walnut. The one I was cutting on here is 18” by 5’ with a crotch at one end, and the other is 16” by 9’, and pretty drat clear and straight.
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Jul 27, 2020 00:44
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Granite Octopus posted:I posted a few weeks back about mould growing on my tool board from a leak in the roof. Roof leak is (hopefully) fixed and I've finished sanding everything that got mouldy. Took the opportunity to reorganise the tool board too. Replaced some lovely looking screws with nicer wood brackets where I could. Matias had some good ideas - I particularly liked the pliers rack. https://woodgears.ca/tool_holders/ This looks great. What is that thing in the upper middle-left? Bad Munki posted:Father in law had a chainsaw mill attachment That's really cool. How do you keep the ladder from wobbling while cutting? It looks like you cut some channels into it, but I can't imagine you do that for every cut. Does it just sit flat after the first cut?
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Jul 28, 2020 22:16
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Drilled holes through a couple rungs and screwed it to the log. The cuts in the log were just to give me a flat surface to screw against, and to accommodate the rungs because I wanted to set it a little lower into the log. Anyhow, I'm about halfway through the log now, and I just got to this layer. It's going to be a sign for the workshop. My last name is Short, so of course it'll read "The Short Wood Shop" 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jul 28, 2020 |
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Jul 28, 2020 22:24
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Hahaha... that’s a really short sign. I laughed aloud and got looked at like I was crazy. That’s some really pretty wood you have though, I hope it dries out for you really well.
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Jul 28, 2020 23:00
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Bad Munki posted:Drilled holes through a couple rungs and screwed it to the log. The cuts in the log were just to give me a flat surface to screw against, and to accommodate the rungs because I wanted to set it a little lower into the log.  
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Jul 28, 2020 23:02
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Jhet posted:Hahaha... that’s a really short sign. I laughed aloud and got looked at like I was crazy. It's been sitting as logs in my trailer up off the ground for about a year now. And I got it from a neighbor when the wind blew the tree down (huge fuckin' walnut tree, like a 3' trunk), so I think it may have pre-dried for who knows how long before that. No checking at all that I can see, I can only assume it's because of the potentially very long time drying on the vine. Certainly no perceptible juices coming out while slabbing it. I'll haul it down to the shop and park it in a corner there for another year or two, we'll see what happens. I'm in no rush to use it, I don't even know what I want it for. Except a sign, obviously.
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Jul 28, 2020 23:27
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This looks great. What is that thing in the upper middle-left? Thanks! I assume you mean the plough plane because it’s kind of hard to see.   It’s a record 043 for light duty ploughing. I mostly use it for creating grooves for plywood drawer bottoms. I was actually using it last night for some new drawers for my assembly bench. Heaps of fun to use and really quick at its job. Probably one of my favourite planes.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:14
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:How do you keep the ladder from wobbling while cutting? It looks like you cut some channels into it, but I can't imagine you do that for every cut. Does it just sit flat after the first cut? Just realized I missed the second half of this question. The first cut uses the ladder, which is screwed to the log. It’s just there to provide a flat surface for the rig to ride on. After that, yeah, you just use the previously cut surface as the guide. Works great, I’ll get some process pics from the next log.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:24
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Bad Munki posted:Drilled holes through a couple rungs and screwed it to the log. The cuts in the log were just to give me a flat surface to screw against, and to accommodate the rungs because I wanted to set it a little lower into the log. I was really surprised how light the wood was-not at all that fresh walnut purple-but maybe that's because it's so dry? Almost looks more like European walnut than American black walnut. Really really pretty either way. In my very limited experience walnut dries very well, and I'd imagine it being a little dry already probably helps even more.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:30
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