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I have channeling in a couple spots on my long rear end cast iron sewer lateral. The place where it connects to the big pipe in the lane isn't deep enough to install a new pipe to code, and roto rooter said they wouldn't touch it. Would it be a dumb idea to excavate the pipe and replace everything from a foot to either side of those bellies with a and leave the old cast iron connection to the sewer? Would trenchless pipe fixing be a better option?
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Jul 29, 2020 07:59
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I'm having a bit of trouble following you here, but it sounds like you have a problem with your sewer lateral, and RR won't touch it as a possible code issue, and you want to know if you can dig it out yourself and replace it towards both ends. Yes you can. Use schedule 40 4" PVC. You have to get good fernco fittings (for both ends) that can be buried, and be sure that your new line is on a constant downgrade.
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Jul 29, 2020 15:16
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PainterofCrap posted:and be sure that your new line is on a constant downgrade. Which with the existing slope and a belly means you will need to backfill with crushed stone tamped down to make the correct grade since you won't be able to excavate to undisturbed soil at the current pitch.
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Jul 29, 2020 15:59
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PainterofCrap posted:I'm having a bit of trouble following you here, but it sounds like you have a problem with your sewer lateral, and RR won't touch it as a possible code issue, and you want to know if you can dig it out yourself and replace it towards both ends. So basically the sewer connection is way too shallow and I have a total of about 90' of sewer pipe because they decided to run the sewer line from the house out the back and around instead of our the front where the main sewer is. So the slope is supposedly not sufficient to be up to code. Roto Rooter said that the only thing they would do was to cap off and abandon the existing connection, flip my sewer line around underneath the house, excavate underneath the foundation wall, and re-tap the sewer. They want $20k t9 do.yhis work. The thing is that it has backed up maybe 3 or 4 times in the 7 years I've been living in the home, and at least a couple of those times a baby wipe had made it into the lateral somehow. So I kind of feel like if I cut out the places where it is channeling, it might actually be fine since that sewer line has been there for at least 60 years, maybe longer. I did call the permit office at the sewer company, and the guy gave me a call back saying that he recommended running it out the front of the house too and it was clear he was surprised at how shallow it was when he checked the depth. But he did say that if I keep it on my property and didn't touch the main I would not need a permit. He also sent me a sewer profile (his term, I haven't seen it yet) and maps of the sewer main and the lateral on my property from the sewer company's records.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:21
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How about re-lining the soil line? https://pipelt.com/sewer-repair/sewer-line-belly-vs-pipe-channeling/
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Jul 30, 2020 04:25
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For the dishwasher install, kill the water to the whole house and not rely on the valve under the sink. Don't ask me how I know.
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Jul 30, 2020 13:06
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:For the dishwasher install, kill the water to the whole house and not rely on the valve under the sink. Don't ask me how I know. Meatpimp's gone through hell with his dishwasher flood, I was absolutely planning to shut it fully off.
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Jul 30, 2020 14:40
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Colostomy Bag posted:For the dishwasher install, kill the water to the whole house and not rely on the valve under the sink. Don't ask me how I know. ....Go on 
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Jul 30, 2020 14:48
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KKKLIP ART posted:....Go on Eh not much excitement. Just some el-cheapo egg valve that is 40 years old and wondering why the loving dishwasher maker didn't put the the brass elbow in with the the install. WTF. This is a Kitchenaid and well, Maytag/whirlpool can go gently caress themselves. So getting it out then trying to shove the new one back in. So fast forward got that replaced, elected to have the new one installed. I think delivery, install, removal was $140 and I was all in. So what happened? You guessed correctly. Anyways, hooked up, no leaks. But now won't fill. Called in a plumber to redo/repack the valves (they ain't easy under the sink). I took solace in the fact that the plumber had to make another trip for the right parts.
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Jul 30, 2020 21:04
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Any tips for installing this Kohler flush valve? It needs to be re-inserted, then twisted in (this is the style and gently caress everything about it). Problem is that the gasket needs to be squished to about half its size in order to screw in. Requires an insane amount of wrist/tricep strength to do this, and there's no space behind the valve to leverage in and physically push it inward from behind. I'm sitting AC Slater-style on this toilet and the gasket needs to be pulled INWARDS towards me which is really difficult.  It's a top down view. Any cheat methods for making this fit? I'm starting to see why current Kohler toilets don't have this dumbass design anymore and now have the ones that press-in vertically downwards. This thing is a bitch to install. I even tried applying some olive oil to make it easier to slide and rotate- no dice. Update: I "pre-squished" the gasket by removing the gasket, inserting in AFTER I placed the flush valve into the hole. It gave me that extra 1-2mm I needed to make it work. Seems solved, for now. melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 19:57
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I liked how Kohler somehow designed a gasket to only last 4 years in their newer toilets.
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Aug 2, 2020 10:00
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Sort of plumbing adjacent question... I recently had some excavation work done on an old alley driveway to flatten it out and dump some more gravel to prep it for a concrete driveway. During excavation, we discovered the previously buried water service shutoff box. The cast iron lid was broken in half, and the pipe down to the shutoff is filled with debris. Here in a few weeks I’m going to get the driveway paved, and it’ll probably be a few inches above where the box caps off now. I’d like to clean out the debris and buy a cap to replace the broken one and extend the box up for the concrete pour. Would anyone have any advice for this? I’ve found some specialized tools for cleaning out the service box, but I’d rather not spend 80$. Would harbor freight have something that’d work? Also, I’m finding irrigation shutoff boxes, but not much in the way of water service shutoff box extenders. Probably not googling the right thing... would anyone have a link or recommendation on what to search? Thanks in advance! E: I think something like this might be what I’m looking for? https://www.usabluebook.com/p-387371-valve-box-adapter-slide-type-riser-2-12-to-8quot.aspx Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Aug 2, 2020 |
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Aug 2, 2020 15:13
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OSU_Matthew posted:Sort of plumbing adjacent question... Did you call your water company about it? It's generally their property, they may come out and fix it for free.
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Aug 2, 2020 15:36
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I can't speak to what kind of box you need (probably should call your water utility, they should provide one), but I have cleaned out plenty of similar excavations with a shop-vac. At least it will pull out the smaller debris. At any rate, you -definitely- want to make sure the shutoff is properly accessible before pouring concrete over it. May be worthwhile to have the utility inspect and possibly test the shutoff now, while it could be repaired if necessary.
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Aug 2, 2020 16:21
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Colostomy Bag posted:I liked how Kohler somehow designed a gasket to only last 4 years in their newer toilets. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Aug 2, 2020 17:22
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devicenull posted:Did you call your water company about it? It's generally their property, they may come out and fix it for free. angryrobots posted:I can't speak to what kind of box you need (probably should call your water utility, they should provide one), but I have cleaned out plenty of similar excavations with a shop-vac. At least it will pull out the smaller debris. That’s really great advice, thanks! I’ll call their office tomorrow morning and explain what’s going in and see if they can clean it out and test it. That would also help explain why I can’t easily find the tools or extension caps.
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Aug 2, 2020 17:45
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devicenull posted:Did you call your water company about it? It's generally their property, they may come out and fix it for free. Definitely do this first. When I moved in, I couldn't find my curb stop anywhere. Called the water company, and they sent a crew to find it. Took them almost 2 hours, but they located it deep in one of my front flower beds (POs buried in a mulch mound.) They added a new riser and cap so that it was level with the garden bed. The guy even found the property pins in my front yard with his metal detector when I asked him nicely. All free.
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Aug 2, 2020 18:12
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Y'all got any recommendations on bathtubs? I live in a townhouse and we'll probably be here another 10-15 years. We want to re-do our bathtub as I'm pretty sure it's an original fiberglass from the 60s. I originally wanted cast iron as we had it at our old place, but this is going into our 2nd floor bath and our contractor was very hesitant on installing it. I can't blame him since we're looking at a 300lb tub and dragging it up the stairs is probably not the safest thing. He recommended looking into some acrylic tubs, but pretty much all of them are soaking tubs with a high threshold, and I mostly just shower. I also have two young kids who will probably start showering on their own in a couple of years, and that threshold height will probably be unsafe for them. The only tub I could find that would fit my needs (acrylic, decent quality/brand, standard height) is a Kohler Entity: https://www.lowes.com/pd/KOHLER-Entity-60-in-x-30-in-Alcove-Bath-with-Integral-Apron-Integral-Flange-and-Right-Hand-Drain/1002968732 Home Depot sells it as an exclusive called an Elmbrook, but it's sold out 100mi from me: https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-...-RA-0/311699666 Anyway, my only reservation is that I am afraid this thing will need to be replaced again in 10-15 years before I sell this place. I lived in my old place for 10 years and the cast iron tub still looked brand spanking new. Acrylic just seems like it'll crack or web at some point much sooner than cast iron. Can anyone here who installs tubs chime in?
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Aug 3, 2020 07:43
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Buy the $150 steel tub from Lowe's Depot and live happily thereafter. They are solid enough to feel like cast iron, but require a lot less fuckery and money.
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Aug 3, 2020 08:12
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I'm trying to fix the "water doesn't flow uphill" issue under my sink and the only correct solution is drilling a new hole in the wall. Believe me, I've bodged this previously and no collection of pvc fittings can fix gravity. I have 40mm push fit waste pipe (which is about 41mm obviously) but I can only see 38 and 52mm core drills at the local DIY stores, what's the dumb thing I'm missing here? Do I drill a 52mm hole and silicone the gap?
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 12:41
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'm trying to fix the "water doesn't flow uphill" issue under my sink and the only correct solution is drilling a new hole in the wall. Believe me, I've bodged this previously and no collection of pvc fittings can fix gravity. I have 40mm push fit waste pipe (which is about 41mm obviously) but I can only see 38 and 52mm core drills at the local DIY stores, what's the dumb thing I'm missing here? Do I drill a 52mm hole and silicone the gap? Are you trying to drill a hole into a pipe? If you're just talking about drilling into the wall, just go with the bigger size.
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Aug 5, 2020 00:57
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Nitrox posted:Buy the $150 steel tub from Lowe's Depot and live happily thereafter. They are solid enough to feel like cast iron, but require a lot less fuckery and money. Thanks! I'm going to see if he'll install it. If not, I think I might just use a different contractor willing to install a steel one. My contractor really wants acrylic because it's lighter, but that only helps him, not me, who will probably have to get it replaced in another 10 years.
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Aug 5, 2020 01:14
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devicenull posted:Are you trying to drill a hole into a pipe? Into the wall. My neighbor has a set of core drills so I didn't have to buy them, used a 52mm.
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Aug 5, 2020 17:08
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Pittsburgh is in the process of replacing all of our pre-19th century pipes and just replaced mine. So now I have to flush all my pipes for 30 minutes with the aerators removed and take a water sample to send to the water utility to test it for lead. Only problem is I have these square Moen faucets and I have no clue how to remove these aerators. There's no screw on the back and I don't want to risk just yanking it out with pliers and breaking them. Anyone know how the hell I do this?
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Aug 6, 2020 02:34
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You need a special tool to remove those cache aerators.
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Aug 6, 2020 05:45
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melon cat posted:Holy poo poo are you serious. And I thought that Kohler was supposed to be one of the "better" brands alongside Gerber and American Standard. I just replaced my mom's old-style ball cock supply valve (don't know the brand), which has been in service for over 20 years. It only recently stopped working. Yep, have two and both failed within a few years. The replacement is a different color and supposedly better. Of course they give you the honor of charging $7 for about 5 cents worth of rubber.
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Aug 6, 2020 11:35
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Bank posted:
Did a lot of reading on this when I installed mine several years ago (8 maybe?). Anyways I decided to do a mortar base. I basically made a "mortar taco" with a sheet of plastic. That way if it ever comes out there will be no fuss. The floor of the tub feels solid as hell.
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Aug 6, 2020 11:49
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kid sinister posted:You need a special tool to remove those cache aerators. Is this something I can grab at Home Depot or will I have to fork out like $30 on their website for a piece of plastic? Edit: Taking a closer look to try to find a model # I found that the bottoms are removable plastic covers that were hiding the hex screw. Voila! PIZZA.BAT fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 14:36
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Just wanted to chime in and say thanks for the advice to call the water company to come out and replace the cap and test my service shut off! Got ~95% of the muck and gravel out with a shop vac with a fabricobbled fence pole extension. However when the water department guy came out he couldn’t get his tool on the shutoff so they just wound up bringing out the hydro excavation truck, cleaned out the service shutoff, tested everything, and put on a shiny new cap, all for free. So, hell yeah, thanks for the advice everyone!
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Aug 8, 2020 04:40
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I'm doing a kitchen and bath remodel and I'm sick of lovely faucets and hoping to get guidance on the fixtures. Are Kingston Brass OK? How about Phister? 8 have eschewed Delta and Moen because That's what they have at Home Depot.
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Aug 9, 2020 01:16
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I've had great luck with Grohe and Hansgrohe.
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Aug 9, 2020 02:11
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therobit posted:I'm doing a kitchen and bath remodel and I'm sick of lovely faucets and hoping to get guidance on the fixtures. Are Kingston Brass OK? How about Phister? 8 have eschewed Delta and Moen because That's what they have at Home Depot. Find a plumbing supply place near you and order faucets there. Definitely make sure the particular model numbers are not available at Lowes/Home Depot
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Aug 9, 2020 02:28
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There is nothing terribly wrong with Delta/Moen faucets. Just get whatever looks good to you. Even from Home Depot.
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Aug 9, 2020 04:36
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Nitrox posted:There is nothing terribly wrong with Delta/Moen faucets. Just get whatever looks good to you. Even from Home Depot. Sure, if you like cheap, tinny faucets that often don't last very long. There's nothing wrong with that if that's the price you're willing to pay. But there is a very obvious quality and fit and finish/visual increase outside of big box store.
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Aug 9, 2020 04:52
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devicenull posted:Find a plumbing supply place near you and order faucets there. Definitely make sure the particular model numbers are not available at Lowes/Home Depot I am. They have a bunch of Kingston Brass there but the reviews online are mixed. Nitrox posted:There is nothing terribly wrong with Delta/Moen faucets. Just get whatever looks good to you. Even from Home Depot. I really don't like grabbing a faucet handle or sprayer and having it feel like cheap plastic poo poo in my hand. Additionally I hate dealing with plumbing issues and I hate paying to have stuff redone because something cheap broke.
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Aug 9, 2020 06:18
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therobit posted:I am. They have a bunch of Kingston Brass there but the reviews online are mixed. I have a Kingston Brass swan-neck kitchen faucet and love it. After four years, however, the hot-water valve went bad (leaking out from under the escutcheon when on) I was surprised since I installed an IKEA faucet in the bathroom sink fifteen years ago and have had zero issues yet. I could only find replacement valves online, so ordered two sets. No local plumbing supply carried them. I may order another set of valves. I have had good success with the IKEA kitchen and bath faucets - solid milled brass bodies and faucets. Heavy, and reasonably priced, and no issues in 10+ years. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 16:54
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Thanks for the suggestion. Ever tried Phister faucet?
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Aug 10, 2020 05:21
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When too much water goes down the bathroom sink, it strata dripping from the p trap. Would clearing out the clog have any kind of effect at all? Or should I go ahead and disassemble everything and replace all the parts? I imagine even if it was clogged, the water should back up at the sink, not be leaking, right? I bought a replacement kit, but I didn't want to replace it if all it took was a good cleaning.
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Aug 11, 2020 15:19
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Bioshuffle posted:When too much water goes down the bathroom sink, it strata dripping from the p trap. Would clearing out the clog have any kind of effect at all? Or should I go ahead and disassemble everything and replace all the parts? Put a bucket under it, disassemble it, inspect the seals. They might be rotted out or simply poorly seated. If the seem fine enough re-seat them and replace it. Clean the ptrap out while you're in there. Hope you have a strong stomach. The torque spec is gud-n-hand-tight. In my experience using tools to reassemble it will make things worse, but it should be quite snug.
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Aug 11, 2020 15:27
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What's involved in replacing a kitchen faucet / sprayer built into the counter like this: with something more like this?  I found a well-reviewed local plumber, but is a plumber likely to know how to deal with the counters in a way that doesn't look awful? What kind of options do I have? Both the faucet and sprayer are terrible.
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Aug 11, 2020 19:15
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