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Aug 7, 2020 19:17
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Aug 7, 2020 20:48
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sweet
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Aug 7, 2020 21:09
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lmao, this is amazing
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Aug 7, 2020 21:33
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As soon as the transfer of the forums is complete and Lowtax receives no money from forum purchases... I'm going to make this into a forum gif
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Aug 7, 2020 21:42
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It's like a BYOB sig made real
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Aug 7, 2020 22:19
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You can't be mad at that mural. It's great.
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Aug 7, 2020 22:31
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we're the last house on a dead end too so people come here to smoke weed, stare at the mural and the view of the park below us
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Aug 7, 2020 22:34
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Hubis posted:It's like a BYOB sig made real
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Aug 7, 2020 23:29
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I love the mural even more than the trap door. And I'm a man who loves a good trap door. I rented an attic apartment once that had gotten around the multiple egresses requirement by placing a trap door in the kitchen floor that went down to the second floor hallway/staircase. It was janky as hell, and a pain to use, but it was my preferred method of visiting the downstairs neighbors vs just using the stairs.
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Aug 8, 2020 12:57
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New floor is all done in the kitchen! Just gotta apply a couple quick coats of polish.
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Aug 8, 2020 13:16
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Our lawyers are saying we need to renegotiate the following "No Holdbacks" part of our contract for a new build. I am not well versed in this stuff - what should be aiming for in Canada?
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Aug 12, 2020 15:54
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Vintersorg posted:Our lawyers are saying we need to renegotiate the following "No Holdbacks" part of our contract for a new build. I am not well versed in this stuff - what should be aiming for in Canada? That's a great question for your lawyer.
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Aug 12, 2020 17:45
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I am no lawyer, certainly not a Canadian lawyer, but I think you should tell your lawyer to "redline" that. Ask the builder for a word version of the document cc'ing your lawyer. Should get the ball rolling on needing to find another place to buy. In the USA the words would include progress payments and punch list and final sign off and certificate of occupancy for payment in full.
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Aug 12, 2020 18:37
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Vintersorg posted:Our lawyers are saying we need to renegotiate the following "No Holdbacks" part of our contract for a new build. I am not well versed in this stuff - what should be aiming for in Canada? Not a lawyer. You want a holdback because if the GC doesn't pay their subcontractors when the job is finished you have to come up with the cash to clear the liens the subs will put on the house.
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Aug 12, 2020 18:49
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Motronic posted:That's a great question for your lawyer. 
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Aug 13, 2020 10:34
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It seems to be sorted now. I thought I could trust this builder - he seemed really nice and down to earth but our lawyers hated that this was snuck in.
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Aug 13, 2020 15:34
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Vintersorg posted:It seems to be sorted now. I thought I could trust this builder - he seemed really nice and down to earth but our lawyers hated that this was snuck in. Trust has no place in contracts.
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Aug 13, 2020 16:04
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Vintersorg posted:It seems to be sorted now. I thought I could trust this builder - he seemed really nice and down to earth but our lawyers hated that this was snuck in.  They bank on people blindly signing. What terms did you come to if you don't mind sharing?
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Aug 13, 2020 16:08
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That star wars mural is amazing I want to support a string light from this corner of my house. It needs to bear a good amount of weight, since it's going to hold up a ~25ft span of a heavy rubber cable pulled taut. From down here it appears to be all vinyl. Is there one surface in this shot that should have lumber behind it I could put a good hook into? Or is there a smart way to attach it to the roof?  (motronic this is the other thread you answer all my questions in)
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Aug 13, 2020 21:17
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H110Hawk posted:
This is what it came too: quote:The builder has agreed to do a holdback for deficient/unfinished items. The holdbacks will be released upon your agreement that the work has been finished. Please note, however, you will have five business days to respond once the builder advises that the work has been finished. If you do not respond in five days, the builder’s lawyer has the right to release the holdbacks to the builder.
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Aug 13, 2020 22:22
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Vintersorg posted:This is what it came too: Looks good. I don't know what Canadia has in the way of inspection laws and mechanics liens for subcontractors, but hopefully inspection is part of completion near you? (For example, with my new AC system they asked for payment in full right after install, don't blame them, but it wasn't inspected which was part of the order. I offered them 75% pending final inspection and they accepted. If they didn't I would have offered them 0% and a mechanics lien so I was glad it worked out. But in your case it sounds like the money is held in escrow so you want to be much more specific.)
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Aug 13, 2020 22:59
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I believe before they get the final payment or something we do a final walk through and they fix anything we mark with tape that we feel is broken. We are doing a builders loan where they get to pull more money once they complete a step and it's approved.
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Aug 14, 2020 01:19
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The Wonder Weapon posted:That star wars mural is amazing The fascia boards (the 2x6s coming down the gable and behind the gutters) are likely wood, at least I've never heard of vinyl 2x6....In the corner where the gable fascia ties into the fascia behind the gutter it should be strong enough to support a string of lights unless you're putting crazy tension in it.
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Aug 14, 2020 04:37
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H110Hawk posted:My first options were interior-only padlocks through the track itself to prevent the wheels from raising, but if that is your only way out in case of a fire you shouldn't add locks like that to the door. Or add the crossbar but put a metal pin through it to prevent retraction on either side. Yeah, I apparently replied to the wrong post, or misread, or something. Your advice was really spot on. I've been a locksmith for close to a decade, so anything lock or security-related totally sets me off, because the stuff people worry about is almost always completely superfluous, while the really important stuff gets ignored. Unless you have other exits, don't padlock or double-sided deadbolt a door. You're far more likely to die fumbling for a key in a fire than suffer any kind of consequences from a break in. Also, it doesn't do any good to get your knob and deadbolt keyed differently. All you're doing is making it more likely that you'll lock yourself out, and anyone determined enough to bypass your deadbolt will also be able to bypass your knob blindingly easily. I have had people completely and utterly lose their poo poo on me for not doing this, and no amount of explanation of security or lock theory was ever able to sort the situation out. The only key that matters is the deadbolt- if that can be picked or bypassed, then nothing else matters, and throwing up a differently keyed knob isn't going to slow down anyone competent enough to get through the deadbolt, which the vast majority of thieves aren't even going to loving bother with for something as inconsequential as your lovely apartment! Do get your locks changed when you move in, though, as you don't know who all might have the old keys. Also, if you're in an apartment building, it may be worth replacing the locks entirely, and giving the office a copy, rather than just letting them add you onto the existing master key system. A bad master key system is going to have a ton of overlap, and they're likely going to be working within a pretty limited selection of possible key cut combinations, depending on how big the system is. I can say this from personal experience, as I've had a few buildings ask me to build a master key system for a certain number of doors, and then come back later and want me to triple or quadruple the amount of change (door) keys on the same master. There's either going to be some overlap, or there's going to be a bunch of un-paid rework (I'll let you guess which). Always lock your deadbolt. They're not 100% secure, but they keep the vast majority of people out. If you only have a knob or lever, stop reading this post, AND GO GET YOURSELF A DEADBOLT. If you call me (or someone like me) because you accidentally locked your knob/lever before walking outside, then I (or someone like me) will have your door unlocked within a matter of seconds, and you'll owe somebody like $100 for showing up and shoving some plastic in your door frame, best case scenario. These skills are not the sole purview of state licensed contractors, nor are they the limit of the tools available to a security professional's disposal, so take that as you will. The drill should always be the last resort, with one important exception*. If your chosen locksmith hops straight to the drill, and you don't have one of the locks mentioned below, tell him to get hosed, and call somebody else. And don't pay the drill-happy guy anything just for showing up, because you are not obligated to, and that's how they gently caress people. Do not be intimidated- obviously I am not a lawyer- but they likely don't have any power to compel you to pay them for showing up if they haven't done any work. Look out for any outfit that won't give firm pricing. "Starting at" is the language they use to scam people into paying way too much for simple services. As for garages, I'm honestly not sure what to say. As long as your garage door opener has a manual release, your garage is vulnerable, but it's impossible to really lock it if you actually use it. I've personally pulled countless release cables for people who went out for a smoke or whatever and couldn't get back in. It's almost embarrassingly easy if you have the tools, which the many rashes of garage burglaries say is not entirely uncommon. Simple car unlocking tools(not a slimjim, never buy or attempt to use a slimjim unless you want to totally gently caress up your car) can get you into most garages. *Kwikset Smartkey and Schlage Securekey locks cannot be picked in the conventional sense, and must be drilled or otherwise destroyed to bypass. I know this seems attractive, because it makes clandestine access that much more difficult, but they're extremely prone to failure, so much so that schlage pulled its version from the market like a decade ago. Kwikset's are somewhat less terrible, but still extremely prone to failure when used with copied keys, and are really good at locking people out of their houses- one day you just stick your key in the lock and it won't turn. They did mostly resolve the issue where you could just force them over with a half cut key, so that's something. If you have mul-t-lock, schlage primus, or medeco, then uh....this post is not really for you, but you should definitely PM me so we can nerd out on lock poo poo BLARGHLE fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 05:55
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ROJO posted:The fascia boards (the 2x6s coming down the gable and behind the gutters) are likely wood, at least I've never heard of vinyl 2x6....In the corner where the gable fascia ties into the fascia behind the gutter it should be strong enough to support a string of lights unless you're putting crazy tension in it. Is this the face you're referring to? It's vinyl on the face, but it's got a solid backing. I can't easily get behind it to verify it's lumber, but it's gotta be, right? What else would it be? I figure I can drill my single hole and then toss some silicone caulk around the hook I'm installing just to be sure. 
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Aug 14, 2020 20:27
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BLARGHLE posted:Yeah, I apparently replied to the wrong post, or misread, or something. Your advice was really spot on.  Lock nerd. I was confused as to the hostility as well and it totally makes sense from that mindset. My house is secured* by Kwikset Cheapest At Home Depot quality locks, with deadbolts up top and never-locked handle "locks" below. I can tell when someone has accessed my house with their loaned key because they invariably lock the handle and it confuses me. Fixed pinning, all the same all the way around. Even replaced the core in a cheap Abus padlock to match. Had a hard sell on Medeco, which was embroidered into the shirt, from the locksmith who re-keyed my house on move in, and later had to explain the above to our GC who was installing our new locks that yes I wanted them all to match the whole rest of the house. If you're going to do me harm I presume you're going to enter my house through the plate glass windows if the door somehow gives you hassle. Don't worry, the hinges aren't studded (but interior pinned), the frame isn't reinforced, but the strike plate is accurately placed to retract the little pin that makes the handle latch not move. I assume the screws in the strike plate are AT LEAST an inch in length.  Security is a hobby of mine, both in technology and the physical sense. You don't start with "how can I secure this" but "what is the threat model we want to protect against?" * lol
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Aug 15, 2020 01:32
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BLARGHLE posted:Always lock your deadbolt. They're not 100% secure, but they keep the vast majority of people out. If you only have a knob or lever, stop reading this post, AND GO GET YOURSELF A DEADBOLT. If you call me (or someone like me) because you accidentally locked your knob/lever before walking outside, then I (or someone like me) will have your door unlocked within a matter of seconds, and you'll owe somebody like $100 for showing up and shoving some plastic in your door frame, best case scenario. These skills are not the sole purview of state licensed contractors, nor are they the limit of the tools available to a security professional's disposal, so take that as you will. OK so I have a question for you. The way I have my door set up is to not auto-lock on close. Most people round here do, because you can't forget to lock it, but I'm personally more likely to forget my key than to forget to lock it, and even more likely to forget my key than to forget to lock it on a day that a thief decides to try the door. Because the door is a multi-point lock, the only way to lock it then is with a key, inside or out, so the only way to lock the door at night (that didn't involve an automatic night latch for reasons above) was with a key, and that's what I did for a while. I switched to using a hotel-style security bar (like a chain but the solid loop bar kind) because it's faster to operate and I can see if it's secured at a glance from the other end of the house. Now it's obviously not super strong security. People can still open the door a little bit, and four screws into wood/PVC aren't going to hold up to someone really determined to shoulder it in, but is this a reasonable approach? One issue is that anything I add has to sit on the surface of the door/frame because the multipoint lock takes up the entire edge face.
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Aug 15, 2020 09:15
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All of my doors have a glass window that you could easily smash in with a crowbar to unlock the inside with. I just don't bother locking my doors so I don't have to carry keys with me.
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Aug 15, 2020 16:11
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How bad would you expect your property value to be hit by two sex offenders moving in next door? I've had two brief visits earlier this year with local detectives asking me if I had children and after I responded no they informed me that an offender was potentially moving to the area. Well this morning I got confirmation in a way that there are two of them moving into one of the empty houses next door (investors like leaving houses empty I guess). I'm not really looking to sell but if the right job came along I would have to eat that loss, plus after looking them up it gets worse. I've put a lot of work into this place and now it feels like its being undone and there's really nothing I can do about this it looks like.
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Aug 15, 2020 18:48
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KillHour posted:All of my doors have a glass window that you could easily smash in with a crowbar to unlock the inside with. I just don't bother locking my doors so I don't have to carry keys with me. *lives in a house full of fragile glass windows *has bank vault door I mean I get barrier to entry.. but if someone wants to kick in my door kind of effort.. they'll also probably be willing to pick up any stick or stone and go through my picture windows
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Aug 15, 2020 18:56
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SpeedFreek posted:How bad would you expect your property value to be hit by two sex offenders moving in next door? Congrats on becoming neighbours with lowtax. tater_salad posted:*lives in a house full of fragile glass windows I even help out by leaving piles of bricks near both entrances!
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Aug 15, 2020 18:59
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SpeedFreek posted:How bad would you expect your property value to be hit by two sex offenders moving in next door? I know I crossed off a property I was looking at when I found out a rapist lived next door but this topic seems to come up so infrequently that I wonder how many people even bother to check.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:02
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Jaded Burnout posted:OK so I have a question for you. Do you mean a mortice style lock? Because to my knowledge there is no reason that "requires" a key inside other than it was the option chosen when it was installed. You might even be able to replace the internal deadbolt with a quarter turn which gives you a visual indicator of locked/unlocked. There are a huge variety of options you can replace it with, but if you're having trouble remembering a key and cannot or will not improve that then buy a Samsung smart lock. I see them sold at DEFCON which makes me presume they're actually worth installing. It is what I would install on my door if I decided to do it. (Probably when the kids get old enough to start coming and going on their own - but I assume that in however many years that is it will be something else.) Any kind of chain/hotel loop can be easily bypassed by someone jiggling handles to enter your home, it wouldn't even necessarily be tamper evident. (They aren't necessarily ripping the screws out of the wall to open it.) It would literally take 30s including first opening the door if they brought the right tool with them. The biggest deterrents to someone entering your home are an actually locked door and an alarm company sign. From there, you want an appropriately installed strike plate which retracts the little pin on your handle to prevent shimming the latch back. Everything else is either getting suddenly into needing a full security workup on your house, or insanity. Thieves don't use lockpicks, the government does, and if you need to protect yourself from the government you should get a LOT more money together. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortise_lock SpeedFreek posted:How bad would you expect your property value to be hit by two sex offenders moving in next door? The sex offender registry is something to be taken with a whole heaping spoonful of grains of salt. I say this as someone with 2 small children. I believe there are a few within walking distance of my house but I'm unconcerned in general. It's not going to impact your house unless the person is literally within visual sight of your door and it was recent and it was violent and it was someone unknown to the person and it was the correct gender and age of your children. It is a very narrow list of people you are eliminating from your pool of potential home buyers, outside of the usual pearl clutchers who will find any ignorant reason to not buy a house.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:20
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There’s a lot more visibility in breaking glass on the door, possibly getting cut and leaving a clear indication you were there, versus checking if a door is unlocked and walking in with zero witnesses and relying on the homeowner to realize something was taken in a time frame fast enough to determine a time frame. All assuming no security cameras. So yeah it’s actually very different.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:36
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SpeedFreek posted:How bad would you expect your property value to be hit by two sex offenders moving in next door? I would say it's probably not a huge deal because in my experience most home buyers just look at a house and buy it based on that criteria without any additional research. I'm the mad man who looked up crime statistics, sex offenders, 100 year flood planes, nearby railroad tracks, airplane flight paths, and upcoming city developments before buying. I got a lot of looks when I mentioned looking up ANY of these things, let alone all of them. I get the impression that most people see shiplap on a wall in a nice neighborhood in their price range, and mash buy-it-now.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:43
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H110Hawk posted:Do you mean a mortice style lock? It's a mortice lock, yes, in the sense that the gearbox is in a mortice in the door, but it's a multipoint one so the mortice extends the entire height of the door so it can activate deadbolts at the top and bottom. The way it works is when you turn the handle upwards it runs a central deadlock and top/bottom hooks into receptacles in the frame, and then you lock the cylinder to prevent the handle from moving back down again. Without turning the key to lock it you can just pull the handle down from inside or outside and it'll unlock everything. H110Hawk posted:Because to my knowledge there is no reason that "requires" a key inside other than it was the option chosen when it was installed. Yes this was my choice. The standard behaviour in the UK (in my experience) is to have a split spindle, so the handle on the outside only actuates the latch, not the gearbox, so you need the key to get in always, but not to get out. I chose to have a solid spindle because of the aforementioned anxiety about leaving my key behind, which doesn't happen often, but is such a loving hassle when it does. H110Hawk posted:Any kind of chain/hotel loop can be easily bypassed by someone jiggling handles to enter your home, it wouldn't even necessarily be tamper evident. (They aren't necessarily ripping the screws out of the wall to open it.) It would literally take 30s including first opening the door if they brought the right tool with them. The biggest deterrents to someone entering your home are an actually locked door and an alarm company sign. From there, you want an appropriately installed strike plate which retracts the little pin on your handle to prevent shimming the latch back. Everything else is either getting suddenly into needing a full security workup on your house, or insanity. Thieves don't use lockpicks, the government does, and if you need to protect yourself from the government you should get a LOT more money together. Honestly the main reason I fitted it is that trades and delivery people kept walking into my loving house unannounced, and I do lock the door with the key at night. I suppose it would not be the worst thing in the world to have something more secure for when I'm actually in the house. And I really need to get around to replacing the strike plate. H110Hawk posted:You might even be able to replace the internal deadbolt with a quarter turn which gives you a visual indicator of locked/unlocked. There are a huge variety of options you can replace it with, but if you're having trouble remembering a key and cannot or will not improve that then buy a Samsung smart lock. I see them sold at DEFCON which makes me presume they're actually worth installing. It is what I would install on my door if I decided to do it. (Probably when the kids get old enough to start coming and going on their own - but I assume that in however many years that is it will be something else.) It uses a euro cylinder so I could almost certainly buy one with a key outside and turn inside. Not sure how I feel about that bearing in mind it's the UK so we have letterboxes. If all you had to do was get your hand on the turn then you wouldn't need a key, anyone can reach that far unless I go down the road of putting cages around the letterbox. As for smart locks, I will never in my life install a smart device in my house unless I wrote the firmware myself. I just can't trust that poo poo, defcon seal of approval or otherwise.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:48
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SpartanIvy posted:I'm the mad man who looked up crime statistics, sex offenders, 100 year flood planes, nearby railroad tracks, airplane flight paths, and upcoming city developments before buying. I got a lot of looks when I mentioned looking up ANY of these things, let alone all of them. I get the impression that most people see shiplap on a wall in a nice neighborhood in their price range, and mash buy-it-now. I did a few of these things, but indeed folks should do all of it. Really is going to depend on housing market. It's more insane than ever currently (at least where I am) and honestly most people here are just happy to get an offer accepted at ~5% over asking price. I sold my first house years ago, it had train tracka and an intersection next to it, the buyers never even thought of it. Suckers.
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Aug 15, 2020 20:16
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H110Hawk posted:The sex offender registry is something to be taken with a whole heaping spoonful of grains of salt. I say this as someone with 2 small children. I believe there are a few within walking distance of my house but I'm unconcerned in general. It's not going to impact your house unless the person is literally within visual sight of your door and it was recent and it was violent and it was someone unknown to the person and it was the correct gender and age of your children. It is a very narrow list of people you are eliminating from your pool of potential home buyers, outside of the usual pearl clutchers who will find any ignorant reason to not buy a house. I understand that there are things that can get you on the list that aren't serious, 3x public urination puts you on the list in WI. But these guys both, are pedos, have re offended, have broken the terms of their releases before, and there is this gem about one of them: "the state had asserted NAME “suffers from a mental condition that predisposes him to engage in acts of sexual violence” and “that NAME is dangerous as his mental disorder makes it likely that he will engage in future acts of sexual violence.” At least I have some distance from my neighbors but I would have bought the drat house next door if I would have known this would happen but I already am trying to buy the nicer one on the other side, that until recently I would have been able to sell for a fortune as a horse farm. edit: I'm wishing I would have gone with the nicer Schlage locks when I did all the doors a little while ago now that I'm thinking about it. SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 20:20
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's a mortice lock, yes, in the sense that the gearbox is in a mortice in the door, but it's a multipoint one so the mortice extends the entire height of the door so it can activate deadbolts at the top and bottom. That is one fancy door you have there. I got nothin for the letterbox havers. My MIL has a mail slot and quarter turn lock, I hadn't considered that attack surface. I definitely couldn't reach up there and undo it given my arm is thicker past the elbow than the slot. I assume some special tools could get it done. I am generally entirely adverse to Io(shi)T things. We don't have an "alexa" or "nest" or similar device in our home. It makes me mad I can't buy a TiVo or Roku without the voice features, and cannot force them entirely off if I accidentally hit their stupid button on the remote even if they allege they are not always listening. This lock has the features you want (it's a lock) without the features you don't (lol wifi): https://smarthome.samsungsds.com/doorlock/product/view?prdId=26&gotoPage=1&searchWord=&searchPrdType=SD&searchCateId1=3&searchCateId2=0#none I believe you can get some middle ground ones which also have NFC keys. This goes back to "how secure" do you need the door to be given the other weaknesses in your home? If someone clones your nfc tag that's a very sophisticated attack akin to picking the lock, if there is an NFC vulnerability AND a thief drives around looking for your exact lock that's getting pretty out there in terms of burglar sophistication. SpeedFreek posted:I understand that there are things that can get you on the list that aren't serious, 3x public urination puts you on the list in WI. But these guys both, are pedos, have re offended, have broken the terms of their releases before, and there is this gem about one of them: "the state had asserted NAME “suffers from a mental condition that predisposes him to engage in acts of sexual violence” and “that NAME is dangerous as his mental disorder makes it likely that he will engage in future acts of sexual violence.” Yup, that's a doozy. Basically you do not have to allow them near you, can trespass them from your property, etc. If it had even been like "rape of adult 20 years ago" with a sentence and no further charges in the intervening time I would consider that person rehabilitated. Not going to go out of my way to be their friend, but there is a real chance they learned their lesson. It's still unlikely to have a meaningful impact on your home value. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 21:25
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