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goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

lil poopendorfer posted:

Forgive my cross post please but I’d love your input:

Anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for indoor grow lights? This would be my first go around, just for a few tropical trees and succulent propagation. Seedlings too. I was looking at some of the Hansi LED bulbs on Amazon, seems simple enough and less obtrusive then a LED bar—but if the LED bulbs suck, I’ll probably get a Mars Hydro LED bar. No grow tent or anything like that, just wanna try my hand at indoor growing and give my plants a boost

I’d like to keep it to $100 or less but I’ll spend more if absolutely necessary

I use a 6500k and 5000k pack of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P2CBY9K

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CaptainCrunch
Mar 19, 2006
droppin Hamiltons!

Ok Comboomer posted:

Count two nodes up from the bottom and cut past there. Also you can very easily propagate those cuttings in water for replanting, if you’re not planning to just eat them now, and double your basil (and your fun).

showbiz_liz posted:

You can chop off everything above that second set of leaves! The plant will invest in making the smaller ones bigger once the big ones are gone. In general you can take off way more of a basil plant than you think and it will bounce back.

Fantastic! I'll do that, then. The trimmings go on tomorrow night's pizza.
Which is what I got this thing for. That and the Thai Basil will go in some Khao Pad Bai Kraprow soon.
Really appreciate the help!

SubG
Aug 19, 2004

It's a hard world for little things.

Ok Comboomer posted:

Not that I know of. Maybe change the water daily to prevent bacteria from killing your propagates.

I know some people use rooting hormone and put them straight in sterile soil but that’s a lotta :effort: for me, and water seems to be more foolproof and successful based on word of mouth.
I've never used rooting hormone with basil and never fiddled around with daily water changes--I use mason jars and just add a little water when it starts getting low.

The only tweak I've used while rooting basil is using purified/distilled water. Where I live the tap water is very hard, and that seems to affect rooting. Which is a little odd, because I use the same water to irrigate the garden and I don't have any trouble with transplants, growing from seed, and so on...but whatever. Side-by-side, basil trimmings from the same bunch rooted bigger and faster with RODI water compared to tap water.

Jan
Feb 27, 2008

The disruptive powers of excessive national fecundity may have played a greater part in bursting the bonds of convention than either the power of ideas or the errors of autocracy.

SubG posted:

The only tweak I've used while rooting basil is using purified/distilled water. Where I live the tap water is very hard, and that seems to affect rooting. Which is a little odd, because I use the same water to irrigate the garden and I don't have any trouble with transplants, growing from seed, and so on...but whatever. Side-by-side, basil trimmings from the same bunch rooted bigger and faster with RODI water compared to tap water.

Oh, I should try that. I've decided to take some relatively intact cuttings from my devastated (indeterminate) tomato plants to clone them, but they aren't putting out roots in tap water. The water here is in the ~200-300 mg/L CaCO3 hardness range, soooo... yeah.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
I think it has to do something with the buffering capabilities of the soil pH versus just the water, but I’ve had similar issues just with water that hasn’t been filtered. You don’t need to distill, but using a filter to take out a bunch of the hardness definitely seemed to help me.

Basil though is one of those plants that will just keep growing if you cut it. Mint will do it too if it’s cut long enough. Rosemary is popular too because it’s so terrible to start any other way.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Is there anything to propogating basil beyond letting your trimmings root in water?
Basil is in the mint family and everything even slightly related to mint (oregano and marjoram come to mind) roots like crazy in water ime.

Neat about the distilled water thing. I haven't had problems rooting basil with tap water, but that's a good thing to be aware of that I didn't know about.

showbiz_liz
Jun 2, 2008

Jhet posted:

Rosemary is popular too because it’s so terrible to start any other way.

I grew rosemary from seed this year! I started several and only one survived but it's like 8 inches tall now. I didn't even know this was a thing.

Earth
Nov 6, 2009
I WOULD RATHER INSERT A $20 LEGO SET'S WORTH OF PLASTIC BRICKS INTO MY URETHRA THAN STOP TALKING ABOUT BEING A SCALPER.
College Slice
What is the right way to set a post?

I have an extra cattle panel that I was going to make into another grape arch, but I have a small yard so I'm not doing that. Rather I'm going to cut up the cattle panel and make myself two trellises for clematis plants. I want to set these in the ground and don't want the posts to rot. Basically interested in framing the 6' by 4' cattle panel with 4"x4"x8' treated lumber with the bottom 2' buried to hold the trellis up.

I guess also tell me if this is a dumb idea.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Earth posted:

What is the right way to set a post?

I have an extra cattle panel that I was going to make into another grape arch, but I have a small yard so I'm not doing that. Rather I'm going to cut up the cattle panel and make myself two trellises for clematis plants. I want to set these in the ground and don't want the posts to rot. Basically interested in framing the 6' by 4' cattle panel with 4"x4"x8' treated lumber with the bottom 2' buried to hold the trellis up.

I guess also tell me if this is a dumb idea.

How long do you want them to not rot for? Because they're gonna rot.

Are they pressure treated or not?

What kind of soil? Does it free there? Will there be significant side load on them?

This is totally do-able, but you need to get them below the frost line if there is one, and if there is any side loading you probably want them deeper and/or in concrete.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
Do your clematis not die back in the winter? Because everyone I know who does the cattle panel on a post thing just puts them on some wood and then shoves them into the ground a couple feet, and then they put them into a garage or shed or just not in the ground over winter when it freezes. You can get a good 5-7 years before replacing the wood at least.

Earth
Nov 6, 2009
I WOULD RATHER INSERT A $20 LEGO SET'S WORTH OF PLASTIC BRICKS INTO MY URETHRA THAN STOP TALKING ABOUT BEING A SCALPER.
College Slice

Motronic posted:

How long do you want them to not rot for? Because they're gonna rot.

Are they pressure treated or not?

What kind of soil? Does it free there? Will there be significant side load on them?

This is totally do-able, but you need to get them below the frost line if there is one, and if there is any side loading you probably want them deeper and/or in concrete.

Yes, pressure treated is the plan. Mostly clay soil. No side load I know of, up against a wall.

How do people get wooden fences to last 20 years. I've got to figure that's what I need to do for this to work.

Jhet posted:

Do your clematis not die back in the winter? Because everyone I know who does the cattle panel on a post thing just puts them on some wood and then shoves them into the ground a couple feet, and then they put them into a garage or shed or just not in the ground over winter when it freezes. You can get a good 5-7 years before replacing the wood at least.

They're perennials. At my last house I was able to get one growing for quite some time (~3 years) into a respectable trellis climb before a neighbor killed it.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost
Thanks for the input all.

Ok Comboomer posted:

The trick to really ugly grow lights that aren’t in a tent or whatever is to run them really early in the morning, you start them at like 5 and they’re done running between 9am and noon depending on what you’re lighting, why, and how much natural sun you can get.

Unfortunately I get very little direct light so my lights are gonna have to be doing the heavy lifting. On the 'bright' side, I'm anticipating superior growth than I get on my balcony. Turn the off season to the on season :madmax:

I'm gonna do some more research but I think normal light fixtures + LED grow bulbs from a mainstream manufacturer is gonna be the move. These fly-by-night companies on Amazon put out effective lights for sure but I don't trust the data/specifications they offer.

A grow bar in a tent is a no brainer but I see home setups where people have these fancy LED bars out above there plants, kinda like I would have. What benefit is there to these over a normal shop light + grow bulb? The ability to provide fancy specialized light schedules? Wifi integration? It looks cool?

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Earth posted:

What is the right way to set a post?

I have an extra cattle panel that I was going to make into another grape arch, but I have a small yard so I'm not doing that. Rather I'm going to cut up the cattle panel and make myself two trellises for clematis plants. I want to set these in the ground and don't want the posts to rot. Basically interested in framing the 6' by 4' cattle panel with 4"x4"x8' treated lumber with the bottom 2' buried to hold the trellis up.

I guess also tell me if this is a dumb idea.

Dig 2 feet down, pour concrete in hole, mix in hole with water. Brace with 2 stakes holding each direction

Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Aug 22, 2020

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Is there anything to propogating basil beyond letting your trimmings root in water?

I've always been propogating my stuff in water and they root 100% of the time but then they don't always do well when it comes time to pot in actual physical medium. I've heard that the roots put out in water are a different kind than those put out in soil, which can make the transition difficult for the plant. I've been experimenting with cuttings potted in sphagnum moss, covered with an inverted mason jar. Almost as easy, with the advantage of a formed rootball. Let's see if it works though

Anyone else noticing that their water rooted cuttings fail after potting?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


With my basil this year at one point I did a lazy trimming and just poked the fresh cuttings into the soil and they all took. Some of them had only one node on them.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Earth posted:

Yes, pressure treated is the plan. Mostly clay soil. No side load I know of, up against a wall.

How do people get wooden fences to last 20 years. I've got to figure that's what I need to do for this to work.

Fences that last 20 years, at least the posts, are pressure treated and not in areas that hold a ton of moisture. Your clay might be a problem for that.

Without any side loading 2 feet should do it. Concrete won't be necessary with clay soil. If you want to give them a little better chance dig down two and a half feet-ish and throw in 4"-6" of 3/4" clean stone or something else that will drain well. Tamp it down, set your post on top of that. Back fill 6 inches, level the post in all directions, tamp it down. Check level again. Keep adding 6" or so of loose soil and tamp it down until you get to the top, tamp it down. Mound it just a bit.

If you're in a hurry to get the posts really solid, drip/spray a house over your backfill for a few hours. It takes a few rains or cycles of this + drying out to get them really set.

If you want to get this done faster, you can still use concrete. In my above instructions after the stone and setting the post you would put in about 8"-12" of concrete. You don't even really need to wet this - it ill pull moisture out of the soil, but you can wet if if you're in a big hurry. Give it a bit of stir. Making it too wet is fine here - since you're not going to be working with it/trying to finish it. Just don't make it so wet you can't continue backfilling.

Note, you don't want concrete to the top. The idea is that you want the weight of it plus a ball of it below the soil line to keep it from squeezing out with groundwater pressure, frosts, etc.

Since you didn't answer the freezing question I'm assuming it doesn't where you live. If it does, take the 2' depth I've been using and turn it into your frost line + 6".

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Nap Ghost
Also if using concrete, you want the hole to be larger at the bottom than the top before you put it in. Frost heave will eventually thrust out a shape that's cylindrical or narrower at the bottom

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I'm bored so I'm making coffee in my compost heap

SubG
Aug 19, 2004

It's a hard world for little things.

lil poopendorfer posted:

Anyone else noticing that their water rooted cuttings fail after potting?
Nah, I haven't found a way to kill basil. I've never transplanted to a pot, just the ground. And they usually look a little wilty and like being watered every day for a couple days. But never had any problems with them just falling over or anything.

Same with transplanting grocery store/CSA alliums.

CommonShore posted:

I'm bored so I'm making coffee in my compost heap
I believe it's more common to call it "tea".

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

Pulled most of the pepper and tomato rows, pulled the squash entirely. A few of the heirloom plants are still trucking, ironically.

Tempted to pave this poo poo next year.

Earth
Nov 6, 2009
I WOULD RATHER INSERT A $20 LEGO SET'S WORTH OF PLASTIC BRICKS INTO MY URETHRA THAN STOP TALKING ABOUT BEING A SCALPER.
College Slice
Thank you to everyone for the post info. I will implement it.

Next stuff! I've mentioned espalier trees a bit back. I was going to do two pear trees to get the variety, but now I'm thinking I'm going to do one pear and one apple. The challenge will be finding a place that I can get grafts so that the pear and apple have two varieties on the same trunk. I'm going to have to ask around about buying trees that are already grafted. This is going to be hard, but probably worth it. One of the fun things was I actually found some pre-built espalier trees and was warned they were expensive. They were, at $300, but I'm enjoying my hobby so if it would have been the right thing I wouldn't have balked at paying that. I already spent $1k on getting three raised beds, what's a little more?

From the garden, I got everything going very late this year. Going to get four peppers, and two cucumbers. Woop.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


SubG posted:

Nah, I haven't found a way to kill basil. I've never transplanted to a pot, just the ground. And they usually look a little wilty and like being watered every day for a couple days. But never had any problems with them just falling over or anything.

Same with transplanting grocery store/CSA alliums.

I believe it's more common to call it "tea".

I put coffee and water into a jar and buried it in a hot spot for like an hour. It was drinkable.

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.

CommonShore posted:

I put coffee and water into a jar and buried it in a hot spot for like an hour. It was drinkable.

Wait, what?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Bi-la kaifa posted:

Wait, what?

I was bored so I decided to use the heat from my compost to brew coffee.

(I filtered it, too).

mischief
Jun 3, 2003

:chloe:

sugar free jazz
Mar 5, 2008

I have a container garden with fairly limited space. I have 6 tomato plants and I’m trying to figure out what to do with the soil next year.

To prevent disease and tomato death it enough to just rotate to like....tomatillos in that soil? Should the soil just sit in a garbage bin for a year?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man



Things are rough round here right now

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
I mean if you could make your coffee and keep your citrus greenhouse heated in the winter off your compost why wouldn't you?! My dream garden is a cross between the hanging gardens and a rube goldberg machine

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

I mean if you could make your coffee and keep your citrus greenhouse heated in the winter off your compost why wouldn't you?! My dream garden is a cross between the hanging gardens and a rube goldberg machine

It just didn't work that well for coffee. Heating the greenhouse from the compost is the dream though

Bi-la kaifa
Feb 4, 2011

Space maggots.

I've heard of people putting big copper coils in mulch piles to heat stuff. With a little planning I'm sure you could setup a decent heat exchange for a greenhouse.

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Nap Ghost

Bi-la kaifa posted:

I've heard of people putting big copper coils in mulch piles to heat stuff. With a little planning I'm sure you could setup a decent heat exchange for a greenhouse.

It's a challenge because you can't steal too much heat or you'll kill the microbes generating it, or else make them go dormant.

There's lots of stories of Holocaust survivors that would hide in compost garbage piles while fleeing the regime. It was a nice warm place in the depths of winter, was unlikely to be searched, and had plausible deniability for the homeowners since they were outside the home.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Just put the compost in the greenhouse. It doesn't need to be more complicated than that.

I could dig it up but there is an 18th century Georgic poem about how to grow winter cucumbers in England and it boils down to "compost manure to heat a glass house and grow in there"

SubG
Aug 19, 2004

It's a hard world for little things.

CommonShore posted:

I put coffee and water into a jar and buried it in a hot spot for like an hour. It was drinkable.
That's what I thought you meant, I was making a joke.


Speaking of jokes, the cycle of life continues. By which I mean everything in the garden is dying. Or at least the prolonged heat seems to be finally beating everything down. Even the bitter melon, which generally prefers things tropical, is now producing fruit that get over-ripe before they grow to full size. This guy is about half the size of most of the bitter melons I've harvested from the same vine this season, and all the melons that are bigger than an inch or two have started doing it:



On the other hand, the lovage deciding to call it quits for the season has revealed a clump of volunteer replicator shallots that had been hidden (the lighter green leafy stuff and stems on both sides are the remaining lovage). Alliums love adversity:



And finally the Sichuan peppercorns are almost ripe. The plant itself has a few leaves that are wilting from the heat, but Zanthoxylum simulans is another plant that loves adversity:

DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Nap Ghost
Ugh my Aerogarden glitched out and didn't indicate it was out of water, and all the herbs are looking desiccated. Will be interesting to see if they recover, but this is disappointing

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

The oppressive heat has backed off enough that my broccoli is actually growing florets now instead of just growing leaves and seeds.

:3:

Sprue
Feb 21, 2006

please send nudes :shittydog:
:petdog:

sugar free jazz posted:

I have a container garden with fairly limited space. I have 6 tomato plants and I’m trying to figure out what to do with the soil next year.

To prevent disease and tomato death it enough to just rotate to like....tomatillos in that soil? Should the soil just sit in a garbage bin for a year?

Yup you're fine to plant something else in that space next year, with the caveat that tomatillos are also nightshades, so they are in the same family as tomatoes. Plant a more distant relative, like lettuce or squash :)

Orb Crabmelt
Jan 16, 2011

Nyorp.
Clapping Larry
Plant tomatoes again but give them little disguises for each plant, like Groucho Marx glasses.

Hexigrammus
May 22, 2006

Cheech Wizard stories are clean, wholesome, reflective truths that go great with the marijuana munchies and a blow job.

SubG posted:

And finally the Sichuan peppercorns are almost ripe. The plant itself has a few leaves that are wilting from the heat, but Zanthoxylum simulans is another plant that loves adversity:



What zone are you in? I've been wondering about growing these but haven't got around to researching them yet.



I think I mentioned previously about only growing Golden Pearls, Wonderberries, and other small solanums in pots over concrete. Just had to deal with another flush springing up in the newly planted Walla Walla onion bed. I'm losing count of how many flushes I've had to weed out so far.

They need to taste better to put up with this poo poo.

SubG
Aug 19, 2004

It's a hard world for little things.

Hexigrammus posted:

What zone are you in? I've been wondering about growing these but haven't got around to researching them yet.
Zone 8 most of the time. Currently, whatever hardiness zone Silent Hill is.

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guri
Jun 14, 2001
Did a big harvest today during preparations for a big typhoon approaching. Tomatoes have been mostly a bust this year. I saved a lot of suckers while cutting my bushes to replant once the storm passes. This was my first time growing bell peppers and they've done absolutely amazing. As usual birdseye chilies have been super productive for me. Today I cleaned up my main garden bed and once the heat of the day passes need to do the same for my rooftop containers. I figure I will plant late summer/fall seeds and the upcoming rain will make them all very happy along with my okra and eggplants which are starting to flower again.

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