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Klyith posted:Can you grab CPU-Z and look at / post a screenshot of the memory tab? It says "channel #" in the upper right. If your memory is actually in single channel mode that's a big performance loss, which should be easy to fix. But speccy isn't totally accurate some times. CPU-Z is reporting "Channel #: Single" with the same timings so looks like I do need to fix that up!
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 16:36 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 08:34 |
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I_Socom posted:CPU-Z is reporting "Channel #: Single" with the same timings so looks like I do need to fix that up! If you have two sticks of memory all you need to do is move them around. Memory should go into slot 2 and 4, where 1 is closest to the CPU and 4 is furthest away. If you have just one 16gb stick you'll need to get a 2nd one of the same specs. CPU-Z can also read your memory details on the "SPD" tab.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 16:43 |
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Current laptop just had a fan bearing go and now it emits a constant ear piercing whine. Was really hoping to hold out for the next gen of nvidia gpus, but I can't stand this noise. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.95 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon) Thermal Compound: Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($12.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: *ASRock B550 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg) Memory: *Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($74.99 @ B&H) Storage: *ADATA Swordfish 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: *NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($499.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *EVGA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($109.63 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A12x15 PWM 55.44 CFM 120 mm Fan ($19.95 @ Amazon) Total: $1444.25 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-26 12:26 EDT-0400 Which cooler do I want? I want a quiet and cool build. Not planning to OC, I just hate excess noise. E: I just want to play video games on pretty settings for a few years and would like the option to hook up a VR maybe. Monitors still seem insane and I haven't a clue what to do about that. Sextro fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Aug 26, 2020 |
# ? Aug 26, 2020 17:27 |
Sextro posted:Current laptop just had a fan bearing go and now it emits a constant ear piercing whine. Was really hoping to hold out for the next gen of nvidia gpus, but I can't stand this noise. I don't know if I just got lucky or what but I'm using a FD Define 7 with the stock 3600 cooler and I can't hear it even if I run prime 95 until it throttles (about 15 minutes). It sits on the floor about 2 feet from me and I have the loudest fan profile on the mobo running that's not full tilt. If I turn all the fans to run constantly I can't tell but a sound meter on my phone says it's about 50db on top of the case. It does run pretty hot but it's not throttling under normal use for me and it's quiet so I guess I'll take the $100CAD savings! Oh, I also bought a 140mm fan for the case (it comes with a 120mm in and out) and it brought temps down a couple of degrees but otherwise has made no difference and it'll shave like $200 off your build so may be worth the test. tuyop fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Aug 26, 2020 |
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 17:50 |
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Sextro posted:Current laptop just had a fan bearing go and now it emits a constant ear piercing whine. Was really hoping to hold out for the next gen of nvidia gpus, but I can't stand this noise. For a 3600 the D15 is hilarious overkill. Any of the usual suspect 120mm coolers like the Hyper 212 or AC Freezer 34 CO would be plenty if you don't like how loud the stock cooler is. Or just try the stock cooler and see if it pisses you off or not. For motherboards I'd go with the B550M Bazooka instead. That RAM is really good but you probably won't notice much difference if you drop down to some 3200 CL16 that's on the board's QVL. I don't recognize that SSD but apparently it's fine. Noctua sells Redux versions of the fans that are cheaper and aren't poop brown but have exactly the same noise/performance in testing. The Meshify C really only needs 2x140 added to the front and the stock 120 in the back for exhaust. You can replace that one with a Noctua PWM too if you really want but I kinda wouldn't bother.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 18:12 |
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Klyith posted:If you have two sticks of memory all you need to do is move them around. Memory should go into slot 2 and 4, where 1 is closest to the CPU and 4 is furthest away. Fixed now! As it turns out slots 1&2 - documented in the motherboard manual as the correct slots for dual channel - do not support it. The sticks are now in slots 1 and 4 but I'm running in dual-channel mode so it's all good. I've updated my original post with updated timings etc.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 18:47 |
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Klyith posted:Plus the video card, where you have some decisions. New stuff from Nvidia and AMD is coming later this year, but it's starting with high end $$$ ones. If you don't plan to upgrade the monitors, you really don't need a 3070. Thanks for the build suggestion. As for the graphic card, i've always picked Nvidia in the past, but i'm so far behind on knowledge of which card / company provides the best product for the price. Any recommendations on which card I should choose between the Radeon RX 5700 XT, GeForce RTX 2060 or GeForce RTX 2060 Super ?
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 18:56 |
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Anyone have any recs for good WiFi cards for under $50? Just moved apartments and am tired of having cables run all the way across rooms to connect the computers to the router.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 19:09 |
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Mordiceius posted:Anyone have any recs for good WiFi cards for under $50? Just moved apartments and am tired of having cables run all the way across rooms to connect the computers to the router. Wifi cards don't get benchmarked by the major publications so it's hard to give specific recs. Grab a card that does 802.11ac by one of the major networking brands (TP-Link, Linksys, Netgear, etc) and you should be fine. In my experience with 2 different wifi cards, the ones with a seperate antenna vs ones coming directly off the card work better. Also consider power line Ethernet. It takes an outlet near both the router and PC, but is way way better than wifi, if not as good as direct Ethernet.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 19:19 |
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Is there any problem if I buy a power supply that's too much power? Looking around at recommended power supplies and a lot of the 650W units are actually a lot more expensive than 750W units. https://www.newegg.com/evga-supernova-750-g3-220-g3-0750-x1-750w/p/N82E16817438093%A0for example, is $130 for 750W while it's $220 for the 650W also it looks like RTX30xx using 12-pin connectors instead of 8-pin connectors is true: https://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2020/08/26/nvidias-ampere-rtx-3000-teaser-pretty-much-confirms-everything-we-already-knew/ what does that 'mean' for buying a PSU. am i gonna need new wires direct from the supplier Jinnigan fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Aug 26, 2020 |
# ? Aug 26, 2020 19:45 |
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Jinnigan posted:Is there any problem if I buy a power supply that's too much power? Looking around at recommended power supplies and a lot of the 650W units are actually a lot more expensive than 750W units. Nah. PSU pricing and availability is hosed all around so weirdness like that isn't uncommon.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 20:05 |
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Sextro posted:Current laptop just had a fan bearing go and now it emits a constant ear piercing whine. Was really hoping to hold out for the next gen of nvidia gpus, but I can't stand this noise. FYI you can get replacement fans on aliexpress or ebay (shipped from china natch) if you search with the laptop model, or possibly open it up and find id numbers on the cooling unit inside. I have done this, it's generally not super difficult if you take your time. And there are disassembly videos for pretty much every vaguely popular laptop model on youtube. Not to dissuade you from also getting a desktop for yourself, but fixing the laptop fan means you still have a usable laptop. And they're $10-15. Cyberdud posted:Thanks for the build suggestion. As for the graphic card, i've always picked Nvidia in the past, but i'm so far behind on knowledge of which card / company provides the best product for the price. Any recommendations on which card I should choose between the Radeon RX 5700 XT, GeForce RTX 2060 or GeForce RTX 2060 Super ? The 5700XT has 2070 level performance (sans ray tracing) for the same prices as 2060 supers, but has some up and down driver issues. If you can cope with the occasional bug or rolling back drivers if one version is hosed up for you, it's not terrible. I have a 5700 and while back in January I would tell people not to buy one until things got fixed, recently I have had few problems. A 5700XT is also really overkill for a 1080P screen. The 2060 & 2060 Super also basically don't do ray tracing from a practical standpoint. They have it, but if you use raytracing it drops your FPS to the 20s. Between the two, at 1080p you could just grab a regular 2060 (the EVGA "KO" edition is a standout) but in general the Supers are better performance per buck. Honestly if you're not changing from 1080P/60hz the 1660 Super is good enough -- it keeps up 60FPS at high settings for most everything right now.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 20:06 |
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Jinnigan posted:Is there any problem if I buy a power supply that's too much power? Looking around at recommended power supplies and a lot of the 650W units are actually a lot more expensive than 750W units. The picture at the top of the article you linked says there is going to be an adapter included for standard PCIe 8 pin to the new 12 pin. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Aug 26, 2020 |
# ? Aug 26, 2020 20:49 |
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Some Goon posted:Wifi cards don't get benchmarked by the major publications so it's hard to give specific recs. Grab a card that does 802.11ac by one of the major networking brands (TP-Link, Linksys, Netgear, etc) and you should be fine. In my experience with 2 different wifi cards, the ones with a seperate antenna vs ones coming directly off the card work better. I would do power line ethernet, but I live in an apartment complex so that seems dangerous (and I'm not sure I have enough free outlets to make it work). At the same time, I don't need something that is crazy powerful with long range. With my current layout, the router is about 10 feet away from the computers (it just happens to be on an opposite wall so there's no way to easily connect them without running wires straight through the center of the room). Mordiceius fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 26, 2020 |
# ? Aug 26, 2020 21:59 |
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Screama posted:Just seeing if anyone can see any major issues with this build before I purchase parts (Prices are in AUD). Looks good, no complaints from me. - The 212 is a super common cooler that sees a lot of use. As long as it comes with the universal mount for AMD use, you're good. - Does the PSU have at least a five-year warranty? I know the Cooler Master MWE Bronze V2 PSUs do. As for power, you're more than fine, a 650w would already be more than enough for like a 2080 Ti & R5 3600. - I don't personally, but the Meshify C is one of the most commonly recommended cases in the thread, so you'll be fine.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 22:46 |
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The Meshify C Mini is a good case but keep in mind it has pretty much the exact same dimensions as the normal Meshify C except it's like 2 inches shorter (5 cm). You really don't save any desk space or anything, really. Might as well get the normal size and have the option to buy an ATX motherboard in the future if you need to.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 22:49 |
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Speaking of which - as I'm interested in a mini ITX build in the near future, I'm curious what cases people recommend. This one looks promising for example: https://www.lian-li.com/pc-tu150/
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 22:55 |
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Has anyone ever done that EVGA 90-day upgrade program? I’m thinking about making some bad decisions...
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 23:17 |
Spacedad posted:Speaking of which - as I'm interested in a mini ITX build in the near future, I'm curious what cases people recommend. I love this little case but get that tempered glass out of here.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 23:21 |
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I've got a GTX 960 made by Gigabyte, and I suspect that it's starting to flake. Final Fantasy 14 won't start in DX11 mode, and Guild Wars 2 had some weird performance issues the other day, so it looks like it's time to start window shopping. I'm in Canada, so prices are at least 30% higher than they'd be in the States. Boo. I'm running an Intel processor (i5 4990); I don't know if that'd cause any issues with AMD cards or what. I'm a gamer, but mostly MMOs and single player stuff. I don't really need bleeding edge gear. My comfort range for cost would be around $250-350 CDN, though I can go higher.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 23:23 |
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Coucho Marx posted:- Does the PSU have at least a five-year warranty? I know the Cooler Master MWE Bronze V2 PSUs do. As for power, you're more than fine, a 650w would already be more than enough for like a 2080 Ti & R5 3600. The corsair CX/CXM have 5 year warranties and are IMO the best bronze supplies around (particularly the non-modular CX). The bit I'd look at is that in Aussie prices there are good 550W Gold units for not much more -- I saw a seasonic focus and a corsair TXM in PCPP for $150. Those move you up to 7 years or better on the warranty and an overall better PSU, and can still easily handle any mid-range CPU + GPU combo. Spacedad posted:Speaking of which - as I'm interested in a mini ITX build in the near future, I'm curious what cases people recommend. Those cases are great quality, but have some caveats: • Actually kinda big for a ITX / SFF system. The upside is they can fit full-size air CPU coolers, but measure out the cube IRL to make sure it's hitting your idea for a small system. • If you are looking at a high-power build they can be a bit of a hotbox. The front ventilation is weak, and the bottom intake is sandwiched between floor and the gpu. OTOH if you want a case with a lunchbox handle they're the best game in town. I'm kinda attracted to them myself. I had a lian-li PC60 way back when, I've always liked them. And for tuyop, there's non-glass versions.
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 23:38 |
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Spacedad posted:Speaking of which - as I'm interested in a mini ITX build in the near future, I'm curious what cases people recommend. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3776587
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# ? Aug 26, 2020 23:44 |
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Coucho Marx posted:Looks good, no complaints from me. Yes, I believe the PSU has a 5 year warranty, I don't think I really need longer than that with my current situation. Mu Zeta posted:The Meshify C Mini is a good case but keep in mind it has pretty much the exact same dimensions as the normal Meshify C except it's like 2 inches shorter (5 cm). You really don't save any desk space or anything, really. Might as well get the normal size and have the option to buy an ATX motherboard in the future if you need to. I have an ATX case I'm currently using if I decide I need to go back in future, but it's a few inches too big to sit flush where I want it. The C Mini should be the exact right size for my space which is why I'm going for this mATX build. Thank you both for the responses!
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 02:04 |
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Furiously checking r/buildapcsales every day for good deals and also furiously not clicking buy on anything until Sept 1st is quite a feeling, folks
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 02:56 |
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Spacedad posted:Speaking of which - as I'm interested in a mini ITX build in the near future, I'm curious what cases people recommend. I used a cooler master elite 130 https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/mini-itx/elite130/ for the computer I run on my TV. I fit a short 1060, 1 2.5" SSD, and 2 3.5" HDDs. The wiring is a bit much, but I just swapped out the ram this week and it only took about 30 minutes. The PSU is fully modular so I only put in the minimum cables necessary. Make sure to double check the clearance so your graphics card will fit. Edit: The main reason I went with the 130 is that it is all black and matches the rest of the stuff with the TV. FORUMS USER 1135 fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Aug 27, 2020 |
# ? Aug 27, 2020 03:39 |
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My 2013 gaming PC is getting very long in the tooth, and I suspect the motherboard is starting to crap out, so I'm looking to upgrade. I want something that can run recent stuff (say, Borderlands 3) on high settings at 1440p/60 FPS, and anything from a few years ago at 1440p/120 FPS; emulate 3DS/GameCube/Wii games with Citra & Dolphin with rock-solid performance; and record and edit 1080p gameplay footage. My budget is about $1500. What I've put together is this: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($206.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE AX AM4 ATX Motherboard ($169.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($74.99 @ B&H) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: *EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB BLACK GAMING Video Card ($479.00 @ Walmart) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($154.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap 82.52 CFM 140 mm Fan ($24.90 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap 82.52 CFM 140 mm Fan ($24.90 @ Amazon) Total: $1444.72 I've picked the Aorus Elite AX for the built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. I can stand to wait for next week to see what the options will be with the new Nvidia cards, but I figured I'd put everything else together and see whether you guys have any changes to recommend.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 03:55 |
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Zoran posted:CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($206.99 @ Amazon) The 3600X is generally not worth the $ over the 3600. #1 a 3600 can become a 3600X by setting the PBO watts higher, which is about the simplest OCing you can get. #2 there's minimal performance gain anyways. If you want more performance the 3700X is the way to go. Get a 3600 and put the money towards a heatsink instead.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 04:19 |
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Nice. This'll be a big help.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 12:12 |
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Klyith posted:The 3600X is generally not worth the $ over the 3600. PC Part Picker has the price difference between the two at $7. Do you think that's worthwhile? And should I definitely replace the stock cooler regardless?
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 12:43 |
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Zoran posted:PC Part Picker has the price difference between the two at $7. Do you think that's worthwhile? And should I definitely replace the stock cooler regardless? Normally the markup is higher for the X. For that small a difference I'd say sure why not. e: It looks like 3600 prices have gone up, they used to be $159.99.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 13:12 |
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so in upgrading my PC I'm planning on reusing (for a little bit of time) 16GB this ram. https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-8gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820231886?Item=N82E16820231886 Understanding that it will be slower than what I CAN use.. will it still work with the following Ryzen 3600 ASUS ROG STRIX B450 motherboard I will be bumping up to a higher speed ram probably next month sometime and tossing the Gskill in my second computer made from harvested intel bits from my tower.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 15:03 |
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^^ that'll work fine, it's only like 5% performance loss on average using slow ram. I think you'll still be pretty happy.Zoran posted:PC Part Picker has the price difference between the two at $7. Do you think that's worthwhile? And should I definitely replace the stock cooler regardless? sean10mm posted:e: It looks like 3600 prices have gone up, they used to be $159.99. Whack, it jumped $40 pretty much overnight. I wonder why that happened? Maybe they were selling too fast, so they'd run out of 3600s before the 4000s could make it to shelves. For $7 get a X, why not. Anyways an aftermarket cooler is a big deal if you care about noise at all. The stock coolers keep the CPU operating at 100% but they're not quiet even at idle. An inexpensive $30 heatpipe tower is a massive difference, near-silent at idle and stay under 1200 RPM at load. Especially with a mesh-front case, those let all the noise out. Klyith fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Aug 27, 2020 |
# ? Aug 27, 2020 15:10 |
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Getting ready to build soon for the first time thanks to this thread! Appreciate the confidence you all have given me in your suggestions. Mobo question; I've got the MSI MPG 550 Gaming Plus. Looks like my one-slot PCIe's are both under the 16 slot for the GPU. I should probably install my wifi card on the bottom most slot so it doesn't block the GPU fans, right?
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 15:30 |
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JoeGlassJAw posted:Mobo question; I've got the MSI MPG 550 Gaming Plus. Looks like my one-slot PCIe's are both under the 16 slot for the GPU. I should probably install my wifi card on the bottom most slot so it doesn't block the GPU fans, right? Sounds good. Most wifi cards are pretty small anyways, wouldn't block out the whole GPU cooler even if it had to be the next slot down. PCIe cards can also go into bigger slots than they need -- a 1x card will work fine in a 16x slot for example. Not that you should do that, but you could if that layout was what worked best.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 15:53 |
Zoran posted:And should I definitely replace the stock cooler regardless? I think I'm doing fine with mine but if you have a really thin case the sound might bug you. I'm in the "wait and see" camp because you can always add fans and stuff later!
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 15:58 |
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I'm not super interested in revisiting mounting stuff after a build unless I really really have to, so I always buy a cooler if it's even lightly recommended just to get it out of the way, because I'm just not going to go digging around in there after the fact.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 16:13 |
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Zoran posted:PC Part Picker has the price difference between the two at $7. Do you think that's worthwhile? And should I definitely replace the stock cooler regardless? I found the stock cooler on the 3600 to be pretty awful and loud. But I am pretty picky and I have my Meshify case on my desk close to me so YMMV. If you do get a better cooler be sure to change your fan profile in the bios so your CPU fan doesn't ramp up like crazy when you just open up a few firefox tabs.
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# ? Aug 27, 2020 23:25 |
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From what I've seen, the cheap-but-still-good fanswaps for the AMD stock coolers are usually just about the same in performance but quieter. With some exceptions. Deepcool Gammaxx 400 and Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO are cheap budget options but are better in performance than the stock. I actually have the cooler master hyper 212 evo on my old intel PC too. It is very quiet.
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# ? Aug 28, 2020 03:07 |
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How's this Super Flower Leadex III 750w look for powering a 3700x/nVidia 30xx system? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($289.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL20 Memory ($293.20 @ Amazon) (i bought this for ~$110) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($499.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-A14 PWM 82.5 CFM 140 mm Fan ($21.95 @ Amazon) Total: $1581.03 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-27 22:18 EDT-0400
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# ? Aug 28, 2020 03:18 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 08:34 |
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Jinnigan posted:How's this Super Flower Leadex III 750w look for powering a 3700x/nVidia 30xx system? Techpowerup reviewed it & said it was fine, they have real psu testing equipment. 750 is well more than watts than you need, the nvidia "OMG 12-pin power!" has been answered, and it's nothing more than a physical space issue. The cards will come with an adapter for 2x 8-pin and won't need monster power supplies. So if you were looking at that one because it's $10 less than other gold 750s, the 650W seasonic is in stock for $100 and will be totally fine for 30xx cards.
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# ? Aug 28, 2020 04:13 |