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wesleywillis posted:True, but they might still have buried electric or phone lines. Or buried gas lines... I’m always surprised when hiking around a forest and find utility corridors, especially for pipelines
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Aug 29, 2020 23:09
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Motronic posted:
As I said I'm no expert on this, but on the face of it, it sounds like a utility-level scale issue. As a third option just to reduce the cost, if you're getting underground power run to the house site and the POCO's trench route works for you, it is possible they will allow joint use. Like, they trench at 4-5', install their conductor (or roll duct), then put 12-18" of cover dirt in, and you roll in your water line. The utility I work for has done it before, especially if you say the magic words "I'll have equipment on site to help backfill". We've done power, water, and phone in one trench on occasion. Can't hurt to ask.
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Aug 29, 2020 23:30
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OSU_Matthew posted:Or buried gas lines... I’m always surprised when hiking around a forest and find utility corridors, especially for pipelines Pipelines are VERY well marked and typically kept on a well maintained right of way. I'm still all about "call before you dig". angryrobots posted:As a third option just to reduce the cost, if you're getting underground power run to the house site and the POCO's trench route works for you, it is possible they will allow joint use. Like, they trench at 4-5', install their conductor (or roll duct), then put 12-18" of cover dirt in, and you roll in your water line. The utility I work for has done it before, especially if you say the magic words "I'll have equipment on site to help backfill". We've done power, water, and phone in one trench on occasion. Can't hurt to ask. Yeah, I don't know how much the codes vary on that, but it's 100% okay to do layered trenches here. In fact, I'm going to be doing one of those for a friend shortly.............turns out having a baby/micro-ex is worse than being the dude that owns a pickup truck. (loving it, this this is so fun to run......buncha pins ordered to replace everything on the dipper)
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Aug 29, 2020 23:43
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angryrobots posted:As I said I'm no expert on this, but on the face of it, it sounds like a utility-level scale issue. I interviewed most of the neighbors about it. They all said use the public water. There is a house at the same elevation I will be, they use a booster on the public water without issue. Electric is a co-op and they charge 400 a pole. Its a non issue there. Internet is fiber and the local coop installs free. I would do a thread, but I am going to be on cell only for the next year. The property itself is hilly as gently caress. I mowed the perimeter today, at least the non wooded part. There are 4 old coal mines, 3 drift and one pit. The drifts are all closed. A cemetery, 2 ponds, a house from 1810, old barns, lots of rubble. The back fence line is terrifying. There are ravines someone dammed up that T into another sketchy ravine and the fence runs along the top. The weeds (giant ragweed) were so tall I had to go by feel mowing along the top. I suspect there is culvert down in the bottom but I don’t want to find out. Along the very back I put an old tpost through a tire on my mahindra 3616 so thats pretty much ruined my day. We have an amish contractor coming out next week to do high tensile fence along 2 sides and back to the barn. Going to leave the stuff thats too steep to mow to the goats/cows. We booked a local excavation company to do the driveway. Its only 1800’, pretty much straight up the face of the hill. Hes going to put in some 6’ ID clay pipe culverts so animals can cross under the driveway. There was a local clay pipe factory (Can Clay) that the city shut down a couple years back and is slowly selling off their inventory. The excavator we hired has a YouTube channel so expect a video then.
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Aug 30, 2020 00:57
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rdb posted:I interviewed most of the neighbors about it. They all said use the public water. There is a house at the same elevation I will be, they use a booster on the public water without issue. Electric is a co-op and they charge 400 a pole. Its a non issue there. Internet is fiber and the local coop installs free. Oh man.....I get where you're coming from on lots of work to do, being on mobile. But I DEMAND CONTENT! (no, not really......your new place sounds awesome)
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Aug 30, 2020 01:09
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if you're going to be maintaining 95 acres it may make sense into looking at a mid-small size excavator regardless of whether or not you do the trench with it; i don't know how else you would maintain your ponds or drainage (or your culverts). how practical this is will probably depend on whether or not the cows and goats are a moneymaking venture or a hobby (or a bit of both)
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Aug 30, 2020 01:51
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At 95 acres I'd say you need a legit full sized backhoe for the long term. And yeah, gently caress you need a YouTube channel. Rarely does someone have access to this sort of project, and the means to keep it going. RDB, by being "cell only" does that mean you have sold your previous property and living in the 1810 house or RV'ing it?
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Aug 30, 2020 02:07
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I am hesitant to spend that much money on an occasional use machine. My concern with any medium/large tracked equipment is the tracks. I would be lying if I said I could judge an undercarriage, so I would expect to spend $30-50k on a decent one. Also, money itself would be an issue there. I have enough left to build and some of that’s contingent on selling my other mini farm/house. I was hoping that buying a $2500-3000 used ditch witch would save me a few thousand over the cost to have someone else do it, and I could sell the machine when finished. I bought a honda pioneer this week and I am tired of spending. The amish contractor asked for a “gator” and to use my bigger tractor (Powerstar 120). The pioneer is shockingly capable. That thing goes places I cannot believe, and I grew up riding a 4x4 Kawasaki Bayou on my grandparents farm. The pioneer would poo poo on that 4 wheeler. I guess its kinda necessary, but drat is everything outdoor related expensive as gently caress right now.
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Aug 30, 2020 02:07
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angryrobots posted:At 95 acres I'd say you need a legit full sized backhoe for the long term. RV, mostly, for the last 3 weeks. My wife uses the kitchen in the old house. We do laundry in it and use its well/septic. Everything else is camper. Too much lead paint in the house for my toddler, and too much termite damage for me to have any desire to fix it. The floors are spongy, and the exterior walls are bowing in. I am tying into the houses septic tank next week for the RV so I don’t have to use the turd grinder again. First time I used that i connected the hose wrong, and when I turned it on and pulled the black tank valve all hell broke loose. My old house/mini farm is just about fixed to the point where I can sell it. Watching the contractor tear out doors/trim and subflooring there was heartbreaking. That house is from 1930, so its never going to be perfect, but there was some scary stuff hidden. Hopefully the next owners don’t have the same experience there that I did. And if I could have bought some of the neighbors fields there I would have stayed.
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Aug 30, 2020 02:18
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I should add the well in the old house is shallow, the water has 3-4 treatment canisters on it, and it while it doesn’t smell, it does turn cloudy. We don’t drink it.
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Aug 30, 2020 02:20
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again, if you're not planning on making any money on your property (ie farming or ranching), then yeah, it's significantly harder to justify buying (relatively) expensive equipment. i actually don't have a farm truck at all, i literally only ride a gator. given how capable the utility vehicles are nowadays i'm shocked whenever i see a neighboring farm actually driving their trucks out in their fields. if it's rutty by you i'd keep the tires a little lower than you'd expect, if you work them hard off-road with stiff tires you'll beat the hell out them (you'll also rattle your teeth out of your head)
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Aug 30, 2020 02:21
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We do make money with the goats but its not my day job. The cows- we only have a couple but are expanding. Working with wagyu angus crosses to get some decent marbling. Trying to be a little different than everyone else around here. The only equipment we want now is hay related. But I would settle for custom baling and save my vacation days. Its about 60 acres open, 30 or so I would have the balls to run a baler over. The rest is going to be pasture or I am going to just let it grow back in. The remainder is woods. It was logged a couple years back but they mostly took ash and oak. Theres still a ton of huge hickory, walnuts, some beech and some huge pines. E: and yeah, you guessed it. I tore up a running board, and having my truck covered with mud is old. I care way too much about the truck to take it back there again. rdb fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 02:30
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Motronic posted:
At that point, how feasible is just setting up a small elevated water holding tank on your property and just keeping it topped up with a low volume pump?
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Aug 31, 2020 01:17
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Hubis posted:At that point, how feasible is just setting up a small elevated water holding tank on your property and just keeping it topped up with a low volume pump? The mechanics are easy. The sanitation.....maybe not so easy.
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Aug 31, 2020 02:37
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Motronic posted:The mechanics are easy. The sanitation.....maybe not so easy. Yeah, I guess that kind of thing makes much more sense for something like irrigation than tap water.
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Aug 31, 2020 03:16
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Is there such thing as free or inexpensive landscape design software, or at least any that you'd recommend? I'm tired of my lovely sketches in my gardening journal.
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Sep 1, 2020 04:40
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It’s more .095 acres than 95 acres, but I wanted to get an electric lawnmower. Lowes currently has the Kobalt 80v brushless ones on end of season sale, and I was wondering if the 250$ push would really be 150$ worse than the self propelled: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-80-volt-Max-Brushless-Lithium-Ion-Push-21-in-Cordless-Electric-Lawn-Mower/1000698036 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-80-volt-Max-Brushless-Lithium-Ion-Self-propelled-21-in-Cordless-Electric-Lawn-Mower/1000698046
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Sep 3, 2020 14:36
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In all of my experience with small lawnmowers I never have once wished for one to be self propelled. Seems as if it would piss me off more often than not. E. The mowers are identical otherwise? But I only see a 50$ difference. CommonShore fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 14:46
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I have the Ryobi self-propelled electric. The self-propel only turns on when you pull the triggers, otherwise you can just push like normal. I will say though, even on the lowest setting, the self-propel hauls rear end. I think if I cranked it up it'd be going like 10mph.
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Sep 3, 2020 14:55
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I have moved into a property which has grass. This is the first time i've had to take care of grass really ever, however my grass is largely yellow and poo poo. it is in full sun, and the previous owner really didn't take care of the lawn at all. While I am not looking to have golf course grass, changing the color to green would be beneficial to me. We've had a very dry late summer in the midwest, and i understand this will probably be a longer term project to bring this grass back, however does anyone have a guide, or a "here is a way to get started actually taking care of a lawn" something. I know we're moving into fall so this, from my research, would be a good time for aeration, overseed, fertilizer (maybe?) however i'd like to prep for spring and actually take care of this correctly.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:05
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The house I lived in growing up was on 1 acre of grass and had slopes too steep for a riding mower. The self propelled mower was a life saver.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:17
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FogHelmut posted:The house I lived in growing up was on 1 acre of grass and had slopes too steep for a riding mower. The self propelled mower was a life saver. Yeah even with just moderately steep slopes on my yard a self propelled would be awesome. It's one of those "don't know what you're missing til you use it." That said... my current mower is not self propelled and it gives me one helluva workout sometimes.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:26
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Twlight posted:I have moved into a property which has grass. This is the first time i've had to take care of grass really ever, however my grass is largely yellow and poo poo. it is in full sun, and the previous owner really didn't take care of the lawn at all. While I am not looking to have golf course grass, changing the color to green would be beneficial to me. The first thing I would do is figure out what kind of grass you have. Grasses like fescue spread from seeds, grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine spread via stolons (like long tendrils that grow and sprout grass out of them as they stretch). If you see stolons in your yard, it's probably one of those three. The next thing I would suggest is watch Lawn Care Nut's youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSjF378bQhLKO-ISsrHE7ng You can basically just search Lawn Care Nut + whatever grass you have and he'll probably have several videos of advice for you. Now, it's probably too late in the midwest to worry about getting green grass. I believe y'all are almost to the topdress and overseed portion of the year. When you DO have grass though, using fertilizer to fill in the nutrients that your soil is lacking will help your grass stay green. You can also throw down something called Ironite or Milorganite which will inject iron into the lawn and that also gives you the dark green color. But start with the grass type and Lawn Care Nut. He's very easy to understand and follow along.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:46
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I probably need to do a thread... But we hired an Amish contractor to run fence. These are the beams he is using for corners. They are 10-12’ long and pounded 5-6’ into the ground. I’m not even sure they were intended to be posts. 
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Sep 3, 2020 23:27
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Daric posted:The first thing I would do is figure out what kind of grass you have. Grasses like fescue spread from seeds, grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine spread via stolons (like long tendrils that grow and sprout grass out of them as they stretch). If you see stolons in your yard, it's probably one of those three. thank you so much for this, ill get started!
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Sep 4, 2020 02:14
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rdb posted:I probably need to do a thread... The gently caress is he putting them down? Mule powered pile driver?
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Sep 4, 2020 05:21
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CommonShore posted:In all of my experience with small lawnmowers I never have once wished for one to be self propelled. Seems as if it would piss me off more often than not. Huh, interesting! Here it was 250 for the push, 407 for the self propelled. They seem to be priced by zip code from what I’m seeing.
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Sep 4, 2020 05:47
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angryrobots posted:The gently caress is he putting them down? Mule powered pile driver? A post driver on the back of a Kubota M7060 open station. They have a newish case track loader with an auger on the front so they can pre drill some of the tough ones. I am not sure what the rules are. I see them drive the equipment, but they have an 18 year old helper to drive the aluminum body F550 PSD, and sometimes he drives the kubota. But you can tell hes new at both. The local livestock auction is also owned by an Amish family. Its hooked to grid power. So I think the rules around what businesses can do is different from what families can do. No one ever said they were poor.
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Sep 4, 2020 11:33
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rdb posted:A post driver on the back of a Kubota M7060 open station. They have a newish case track loader with an auger on the front so they can pre drill some of the tough ones. I am not sure what the rules are. I see them drive the equipment, but they have an 18 year old helper to drive the aluminum body F550 PSD, and sometimes he drives the kubota. But you can tell hes new at both. I think tolerance for this kind of thing in the name of business is very community specific. Phones, credit card readers, computers, internet access, etc at the materials place I frequent. Most of the younger ones that work there are carrying the local volunteer fire department pagers too.
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Sep 4, 2020 12:04
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Twlight posted:I have moved into a property which has grass. This is the first time i've had to take care of grass really ever, however my grass is largely yellow and poo poo. it is in full sun, and the previous owner really didn't take care of the lawn at all. While I am not looking to have golf course grass, changing the color to green would be beneficial to me. Daric posted:The first thing I would do is figure out what kind of grass you have. Grasses like fescue spread from seeds, grasses like Bermuda, Zoysia, and St. Augustine spread via stolons (like long tendrils that grow and sprout grass out of them as they stretch). If you see stolons in your yard, it's probably one of those three.  He's in the midwest, so it's probably going to be some mix of kentucky bluegrass and perrenial rye (and/or maybe fescue). And weeds, obviously. Actually, now is the very end of summer dormancy hell for Northern grass where heat and drought will cause it to brown and dieback. Fall is peak time for cool season grass, and if you want to rehab a lawn now is the ideal time to start. It's probably brown from some combination of drought stress, heat, and nutrient deficiency. Thin/bare patches may be light, traffic, or compaction problems. Easy rehab instructions: 1) Measure your lawn. Divide it into convenient 1000sqft ish sections. 2) Go buy yourself a few bags of Milorganite, and apply it at the recommended rate. One 36lb bag should cover roughly 2500 sqft, but you're not going to burn anything if you go a little bit heavy. 3) Order some Sulfate of Potash and spread it at about 1lb / 1000sqft. 4) Water Water Water. Between rain and irrigation you want 0.5-0.75" every 3-4 days. 5) Mow Mow Mow. You're going to be applying a goodly amount of nitrogen, which will revitalize any healthy turf. Keeping it mowed will encourage it to thicken and spread. 6) Do all this again in October. You're looking to apply roughly 1lb of Actual Nitrogen every 4 weeks ("the Fall Nitro Push"). 7) Do one more application of Milo in November. The grass will start to go dormant from the cold, but the roots are warmer and they are still hardening off, and storing energy for spring regrowth. This feeding will help it do that better. Milorganite (and other organic Nitrogen sources) aren't really ideal in cold weather, but the combination of slow-release, micronutrients (Iron and Sulfer especially), and soil-improving qualities will all make it a great first step to fixing everything up. There's a lot more nuance you could go into, but this is pretty straightforward and you should hopefully see results this season. Once you see how well it responds you can get an idea for where to go from there (probably spring pre-emergent and overseeding next fall).
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Sep 4, 2020 21:56
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amish don't avoid technology as a rule, just when it seems like it would be super disruptive to whatever they've decided their 'culture' is. the sawmill i use has most of their logging done by amish and they use chainsaws, forwarders, etc etc. he still has to drive down there and ask them in person because they don't use phones.
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Sep 4, 2020 22:17
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I'm getting ready to start the fall nitro push soon, but I also need potassium. You know if there are any liquid solutions? I've got 35,000 sq. ft of grass (don't judge me!) so I've taken to liquid application of everything with the tiniest little baby spray trailer I've ever seen. Just the right size to do the whole mess in 2 or 3 fills.
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Sep 4, 2020 22:21
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Hubis posted:
This is super key, I did see about milogranite in some of the youtube videos which we're linked in the other comment. Thank you for this! Should I just get any ol' spreader? or is there a good type to buy? I've seen scotts spreaders in HD, but not sure if they're fine or i will even understand the difference.
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Sep 5, 2020 03:52
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Twlight posted:This is super key, I did see about milogranite in some of the youtube videos which we're linked in the other comment. Thank you for this! Should I just get any ol' spreader? or is there a good type to buy? I've seen scotts spreaders in HD, but not sure if they're fine or i will even understand the difference. How big of a lawn? The larger spreaders are nice if you have a larger area to cover and can throw things down with fewer trips (andctheycar generally more durable in general) but the Scott's EdgeGuard spreaders are fine for home use. I've got an EdgeGuard mini that works just fine. The eponymous "edge guard" is really nice for keeping your fert and seed off the sidewalk/flower beds.
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Sep 5, 2020 07:24
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Motronic posted:I'm getting ready to start the fall nitro push soon, but I also need potassium. You know if there are any liquid solutions? I've got 35,000 sq. ft of grass (don't judge me!) so I've taken to liquid application of everything with the tiniest little baby spray trailer I've ever seen. Just the right size to do the whole mess in 2 or 3 fills. A quick search for "liquid potash" on DoMyOwn.com will give you some good options. I've seen Nucleus 0-0-21 spoken of well on some lawn forums. I haven't used their potash mixes, but I've had good results with the TurfGrass Pro products. Interestingly they have a 0-0-26 Potassium Phosphite product and a 0-0-29 Potassium Acetate product. I wasn't sure what the practical differences were, but I guess Potassium Acetate has very good foliar absorption, while Potassium Phosphite has some residual anti-fungal properties. So my guess would be the 0-0-26 ProPhite would be a solid pick for your situation. This is definitely stretching my personal experience though, so let me know what you end up trying and how it works! Edit: it looks like Nucleus is Potassium Sulfate, so I imagine that would give you some good color response. Hubis fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Sep 5, 2020 |
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Sep 5, 2020 07:47
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Twlight posted:This is super key, I did see about milogranite in some of the youtube videos which we're linked in the other comment. Thank you for this! Should I just get any ol' spreader? or is there a good type to buy? I've seen scotts spreaders in HD, but not sure if they're fine or i will even understand the difference. Btw, if you want to add effort/cost, I'd suggest: 1) Getting a decent Hose End Sprayer (the Chapin or Ortho ones are fine) and getting The Green County Fert Bio-stimulant Pack. This will give you tools to address a lot of new lawn problems. 2) get this as your Sulfate of Potash product (much better pricing per pound, though it's more upfront) 3) try this BalX 16-4-6 Granular Fertilizer instead of the Milorganite. It will have better action as it cools down (different form of Nitrogen) and is a more complete Fert than Milorganite (Milo is still great for Spring application, though).
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Sep 5, 2020 14:58
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Motronic posted:I'm getting ready to start the fall nitro push soon, but I also need potassium. You know if there are any liquid solutions? I've got 35,000 sq. ft of grass (don't judge me!) so I've taken to liquid application of everything with the tiniest little baby spray trailer I've ever seen. Just the right size to do the whole mess in 2 or 3 fills. were you looking to do it in one application? i'm imagining yes? we don't do any x-0-x applications but i can call my guy and see if he has any recs
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Sep 5, 2020 16:55
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Hubis posted:A quick search for "liquid potash" on DoMyOwn.com will give you some good options. Ahhhhh, I was searching wrong. I tried 0-0-50 and.....something else, neither of which turned up what I was looking for. Thanks! A 50S RAYGUN posted:were you looking to do it in one application? i'm imagining yes? we don't do any x-0-x applications but i can call my guy and see if he has any recs Nah, it only takes me 45 minutes or less to do an application and I've got nothing but time. I've already got my nitrogen, so I ordered a 5 gallon bucket of nucleus. I'll do them sequentially and then hit it up with some 2,4-d, MCPP and dicamba around the first frost. I considered overseeding this time of year, but really it's too much of a poo poo show. I need to get the soil corrected and burn down the weeds and I'll deal with the rest in the spring. Which may include glyphosating sections and just starting over if necessary.
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Sep 5, 2020 18:05
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Hubis posted:How big of a lawn? The larger spreaders are nice if you have a larger area to cover and can throw things down with fewer trips (andctheycar generally more durable in general) but the Scott's EdgeGuard spreaders are fine for home use. I've got an EdgeGuard mini that works just fine. The eponymous "edge guard" is really nice for keeping your fert and seed off the sidewalk/flower beds. I got the same scott's edgeguard today, after doing lawn measurements im at 4000~ SQ ft which isnt too bad, however its not continuous so the smaller spreader should work great.
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Sep 5, 2020 18:42
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Took out the riding mower (JD e160) for the first time ever today. Was reasonably slick and easy, though I was surprised to see that the front wheels could tear up the grass a bit on tight turns. No bagger yet. I fluked into a free sweeper trailer so I'll try that out before dropping any cash.
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Sep 5, 2020 18:53
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