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When you are able to get 0% financing on a new vehicle with 0 down, is there a reason you would want to have any type of down payment?
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Aug 29, 2020 16:03
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Depending on how much the car costs, you may want to bring the amount owed to the bank down in case of an accident or if you need to resell for some reason. If the car is valued by insurance (or the market) at $20k and you still owe $25k on it welp. Also double check on that 0% financing deal- if we had gone with the dealer’s in house 0% financing when we bought last week, we lost out on dealer incentives that added up to decently more than what we are paying on interest using outside financing. If you have very good/excellent credit you can get some stupidly low apr deals that may let you retain more dealer discounts.
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Aug 29, 2020 16:12
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I haven’t been able to find non dealer financing lower than ~2.8 and running the math it’s basically a wash between cash incentives and 0% financing.
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Aug 29, 2020 16:45
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It was really a heater core issue - I think it's supposedly fixed but I'm too lazy to try to read up on the technical differences between the EZ30 and late EZ36s. I ended up buying a CPO 2018 Outback 3.6R with 27k miles and splurged for the CPO wrap warranty which goes bumper to bumper to 100k miles or 10 years. Will report back in 2027.
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Aug 29, 2020 18:40
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hey people. looking to buy a new car and need advice/suggestions: - Proposed Budget: no more than $20k - New or Used: New -Body Style: Compact or midsize. I just need a regular car that I can carry groceries and suitcases and get me from point A to point B. -How will you be using the car?: Almost entirely for work, groceries, errands. Though I do plan on using it for road trips as well. -What aspects are most important to you? reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, MPG -i'm in the u.s. basically, i'm looking for something that's solid, reliable, and doesn't use a lot of gas. i'm a fan of toyotas, hondas and nissans, so ideally one of those would be great, but i'm not opposed to buying another brand that is just as good. edit: for reference, i have a 2004 nissan sentra se-r spec v. it's been (understandably) breaking a lot and apparently the parts are really expensive to replace for this particular model. so that's also something i'd like to factor in: replacing parts easily. Mr Interweb fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 18:50
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Mr Interweb posted:hey people. looking to buy a new car and need advice/suggestions: Enjoy your new Toyota Corolla.
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Aug 29, 2020 19:39
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skipdogg posted:Enjoy your new Toyota Corolla. i should also point out that i know pretty much nothing about cars aside from certain brand names = good, so you'll have to be a bit more specific
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Aug 29, 2020 20:10
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Mr Interweb posted:i should also point out that i know pretty much nothing about cars aside from certain brand names = good, so you'll have to be a bit more specific The Corolla is a compact car made by Toyota that checks all your boxes. It's a cheap and reliable human transporter. My older car is a Toyota Matrix, which is basically a Corolla with a big butt. It is the definition of "perfectly serviceable." You will never have fun driving a Corolla, but you will successfully go back and forth between places without worry for the next decade or two.
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Aug 29, 2020 20:28
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You're looking for Corolla, Civic, Elantra, in that order. You may be able to squeeze Mazda 3 in there. Start looking at what's available at the dealers nearby, go test drive cars in that segment and see what you actually like. As far as reliability and cost of ownership there is very little difference between those cars. If your budget-minded, look for the best incentives versus the highest turn level within your budget. Just don't buy anything you do not enjoy sitting in for long periods of time just because it was a couple of grand cheaper. You may regret it
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Aug 29, 2020 20:30
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Shine posted:The Corolla is a compact car made by Toyota that checks all your boxes. It's a cheap and reliable human transporter. Nitrox posted:You're looking for Corolla, Civic, Elantra, in that order. You may be able to squeeze Mazda 3 in there. Start looking at what's available at the dealers nearby, go test drive cars in that segment and see what you actually like. As far as reliability and cost of ownership there is very little difference between those cars. If your budget-minded, look for the best incentives versus the highest turn level within your budget. Just don't buy anything you do not enjoy sitting in for long periods of time just because it was a couple of grand cheaper. You may regret it Two questions: 1. i'm assuming there's more than one kind of carolla, no? 2. i 've always hear people talking about how 'fun' driving certain cars are, and it may possibly be a dumb question, but what do people mean by it? i've owned a grand total of 2 cars in my life (the aforementioned sentra and a buick riviera), and i don't know if i ever had 'fun' driving either of them. but i did like the sentra a lot more as it felt more maneuvarable and less like a tank.
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Aug 29, 2020 20:38
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Mr Interweb posted:hey people. looking to buy a new car and need advice/suggestions: The Honda Fit and Kia Soul are good, inexpensive basic cars that have a new MSRP comfortably within your price range. The Honda Civic, Hyundai Elantra, and already-mentioned Corolla are towards the higher end, also good, and will feel a little bit nicer in a lot of ways. e: Mr Interweb posted:Two questions: Almost every car on the market has multiple "trim lines", with different features, ranging from little extra bits in the interior to a more powerful engine or different transmission. They used to be important if you wanted things like air conditioning, power windows and locks, or an automatic transmission. These days, it's more about different interior finishes, performance options, and infotainment. You're probably going to want to look at the lower end of the market - the only big optional feature you'll want to make sure you get is Apple Carplay/Android Auto integration, because automakers can't design a useful user audio/navigation interface to save their lives. You can look at features and pricing for different trim lines on manufacturers' websites. Keep in mind that the MSRP they show you is a starting point for negotiations with the dealer; you probably aren't going to shave tons of money off of it buying an economy car, but you shouldn't expect to pay the sticker price, either. There are various companies out there that offer you a pre-negotiated price that can work well for high-volume cars like the ones you'll probably be looking at. Costco's auto buying program is one, and it's worth checking out if you have a membership. Of course, never buy a single dealer-installed add-on, new-car extended warranty package, or VIN etching/rustproofing/paint protectant scam treatment. "Fun" cars, generally speaking, are ones that respond quickly and predictably to driver inputs, and provide feedback about the car and road to the driver - basically, something that gives you some of what you'd expect from a high-end sports car in a more affordable and practical package. To some degree, "fun" means making sacrifices to practical concerns. A firmer suspension is more precise on the road, but you'll feel more bumps inside the cabin. Quicker steering means you can make faster inputs, but you have to be more careful when you're just driving down the road. A bigger engine and lower gearing means that you'll accelerate faster when you hit the gas, but you'll also be putting more gas into the engine. Stickier tires respond better, but they wear faster, don't perform well out of their element (you don't want summer tires in winter, or snow tires in summer), and cost more to replace. With that said, though, modern cars have gotten pretty good about mixing "fun to drive" characteristics into something you can live with every day, and little cars can be fun just because they're small, light, and easy to toss around compared to something like an old Buick. Mazda and Honda have a reputation as being a bit more fun than most other manufacturers, but really, what you should be doing here is taking cars for test drives and seeing if you like how they feel. Space Gopher fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 20:46
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BadSamaritan posted:Depending on how much the car costs, you may want to bring the amount owed to the bank down in case of an accident or if you need to resell for some reason. If the car is valued by insurance (or the market) at $20k and you still owe $25k on it welp. Just a note, you mean the OEM/manufacturer's 0% financing, and OEM/manufacturer incentives. Those are separate from dealer discounts.
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Aug 29, 2020 22:53
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I think Space Gopher's post above needs to be added to the first post in this thread. Good job
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Aug 30, 2020 03:56
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Nitrox posted:I think Space Gopher's post above needs to be added to the first post in this thread. Good job I would also settle for "please explain why a Prius is not right for you".
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Aug 30, 2020 04:27
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thanks. giving it some thought, i think i may go for either a carolla or a civic. my next question: should i buy or lease?
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Aug 30, 2020 05:42
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Mr Interweb posted:thanks. giving it some thought, i think i may go for either a carolla or a civic. Buy. Leasing only makes sense if you know you're going to want to give up the car at the end of the lease term. For instance, if you're wealthy, like having the latest model, and don't want to own an expensive-to-fix luxury car outside the warranty, leasing can make sense. Businesses that can work depreciation accounting into a tax benefit or want to play "I Can't Believe It's Not Capex!" games also tend to like leases. Those things probably don't describe you. And, car payments suck. If you buy, you'll eventually end up with a car and no payments. If you lease, you'll have a payment to deal with as long as you have a car.
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Aug 30, 2020 06:31
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Buying a car means that you pay for the entire life-cycle of the car. Leasing a car means that you pay for a portion of the life-cycle of the car. If you plan to drive the car until the wheels fall off (or like ~10 years), buying makes sense. However, there are a couple of situations where it may make sense to lease: buying premium cars The way that the premium car business works at this point is that you lease the car to the first owner, then you take the car back, do some small work on it, put an extended warranty on it, and sell or lease it again to a second owner as a CPO vehicle. This is highly profitable, and means that the OEM and dealer double-dip on financing and car sales margins. (Interestingly, used car sales margins are extremely good compared to new for dealers) As a result, luxury brand leases are really cheap compared to sales, because in addition to margin on the lease, there's a lot of margin on the lease turn in and resulting sale. Again, if you're gonna drive it til it dies, it makes sense to buy. But for current BMW 2-series sequential lease vs finance (and the current finance deal is $3,000 off MSRP plus 0.9% for 60 mos, which is strong), the break-even point where it's advantageous to finance means keeping the purchased car for minimum six years and eight months. That ignores any repair costs on the financed vehicle, which will have been out of warranty for two years and eight months. buying electric vehicles EV tech is changing extremely quickly and whatever you can buy right now is going to be significantly worse than what you can buy in three years. Leases for EVs tend to be further subsidized to move cars to generate carbon offsets for regulatory purposes. buying in advance of a lifestyle change The short term of a lease can work to your advantage if you know your lifestyle and vehicle requirements will change in the near term. Eg: right now I work an hour away from my home and have a moderate daily commute, so I want a nice efficient car with bluetooth and CarPlay and good sound deadening. But in three years, I am gonna have enough cash banked to move to Wyoming to pursue my dream of becoming a professional ski instructor / cowboy / fly fisherman / whatever the gently caress and I will need/want a 4Runner. Therefore, I should lease a Civic now at an absurdly low lease rate! This is also very applicable to people who plan to start a family in the near future and will want a minivan/Subaru Outback/whatever the gently caress parents demand, but don't want one right now as they purchase a car. you have car ADD and can afford to support your car ADD habit if you do not want to keep a car more than 24-42 months, leasing has generally favorable economics vs buying. Car ADD is generally expensive, though! If there's interest, I can post Lease Economics again. if you do not fit in to one of the buckets above, do not lease a car. Also, do not lease a CPO car, this is evidently a thing now and it is stupid.
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Aug 30, 2020 15:34
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Leasing an EV also means that technically, you personally are not taking the federal tax credit, but you get the benefit of it in the lease price. Makes the monthly payment much lower since you aren't financing $7500 that shows up in your federal refund. Leasing is just a long term rental. Only one I've ever considered was a $200/mo lease on a Leaf where the lease+electricity would have been the same as I was spending on gasoline+parts for my beater Ranger.
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Aug 30, 2020 15:43
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Alrighty. Buying it is, then. Some more questions: 1. what kind of engine should i get? 2. are digital dashboards safe nowadays? my old buick had one (which was kind of cool i guess for something made in 1990), but i always worry about having to replace the entire thing if something goes wrong.
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Aug 30, 2020 18:55
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Mr Interweb posted:2. are digital dashboards safe nowadays? Do NOT ask this question in the Microsoft Flight Sim thread.
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Aug 30, 2020 19:03
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Digital dashboards are not only good, they are rad as gently caress. Particularly ones from the 80s and 90s
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Aug 30, 2020 19:10
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Mr Interweb posted:Alrighty. Buying it is, then. 1. You’re buying a sub-$20,000 new car. Get the cheap engine on whatever model you buy. 2. Every dashboard is digital. No new car uses a speedometer cable and drag cup setup, or a pulse counter wired from the ignition into the tach. It’s just a question of whether you want to see the readout from the digital backend on a dial driven by a stepper motor, or some kind of LED or LCD display. If anything goes wrong in the dashboard, you will probably need to replace the whole unit, no matter whether it uses dials or a display as its main output. The good news is that in-car electronics are far, far more reliable than they were in the 80s and 90s*, and so the chance that the instruments will die before the rest of the car is very low. The only thing you might possibly need to worry about is if you have a favorite pair of polarized sunglasses, because those don’t always play well with LCDs. *even the Italians are better, although they’ve only caught up to “80s-90s Honda” levels Space Gopher fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 19:38
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Gangringo posted:Digital dashboards are not only good, they are rad as gently caress. Particularly ones from the 80s and 90s they do indeed look cool Space Gopher posted:1. You’re buying a sub-$20,000 new car. Get the cheap engine on whatever model you buy. well i mean, they have engines based on the kind of driver you are right? i'm mostly going to use it for going to and from from work, and the occasional long road trip. quote:2. Every dashboard is digital. No new car uses a speedometer cable and drag cup setup, or a pulse counter wired from the ignition into the tach. It’s just a question of whether you want to see the readout from the digital backend on a dial driven by a stepper motor, or some kind of LED or LCD display. huh, didn't know all this. well that makes things easier.
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Aug 30, 2020 19:52
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Mr Interweb posted:well i mean, they have engines based on the kind of driver you are right? i'm mostly going to use it for going to and from from work, and the occasional long road trip. Not really in a way that matters to you (or most people.) In the price range you’re looking at just go for the cheapest thing. There’s nothing about the driving habits you listed that is going to make any difference. For the most part engine options are going to make the car feel faster or tow more, which is not something you need. The base engines will be fine. I suppose there’s diesel, but that’s not going to be an option.
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Aug 30, 2020 20:35
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Mr Interweb posted:well i mean, they have engines based on the kind of driver you are right? i'm mostly going to use it for going to and from from work, and the occasional long road trip. Functionally there's really no change aside from mileage so you're not looking to buy the SuperTorque option or extra NoS canisters or whatever.
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Aug 30, 2020 20:47
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Interesting you all are telling him to get the cheapest engine option. Sometimes those are really underpowered, and it is fun having a bigger engine. The question is whether you want to pay for it in TCO or efficiency.KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Again, if you're gonna drive it til it dies, it makes sense to buy. But for current BMW 2-series sequential lease vs finance (and the current finance deal is $3,000 off MSRP plus 0.9% for 60 mos, which is strong), the break-even point where it's advantageous to finance means keeping the purchased car for minimum six years and eight months. That ignores any repair costs on the financed vehicle, which will have been out of warranty for two years and eight months. I for one would be interested in a Lease Economics post, specifically how you arrive at the breakeven point as you mentioned. 
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Aug 30, 2020 21:44
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i know i said my budget is max $20k, but i didn't realize that a carolla hybrid and a prius were both only a few thousand dollars more (i figured both those were $30k+ ). given the savings i'd get on mileage, i'd be very willing to buy either of them. thoughts? edit: honda insights too! Mr Interweb fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 22:48
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Mr Interweb posted:i know i said my budget is max $20k, but i didn't realize that a carolla hybrid and a prius were both only a few thousand dollars more (i figured both those were $30k+ ). given the savings i'd get on mileage, i'd be very willing to buy either of them. how much are you driving, because it takes a while for you to pay off the initial purchase price in fuel savings the corolla (probably good to spell it right for the paperwork etc) hybrid is a good car. Inner Light posted:Interesting you all are telling him to get the cheapest engine option. Sometimes those are really underpowered, and it is fun having a bigger engine. The question is whether you want to pay for it in TCO or efficiency. It's 2020, no cars sold in the USA are underpowered enough to be unsafe and i would argue that no cars are underpowered either
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Aug 30, 2020 23:15
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:how much are you driving, because it takes a while for you to pay off the initial purchase price in fuel savings i'd say roughly 20-30 miles per day?
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Aug 31, 2020 05:29
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Mr Interweb posted:i know i said my budget is max $20k, but i didn't realize that a carolla hybrid and a prius were both only a few thousand dollars more (i figured both those were $30k+ ). given the savings i'd get on mileage, i'd be very willing to buy either of them. FWIW, I don't have an Insight, and have in fact never even driven one--but I've read some very positive reviews in Motor Trend etc. and I think they look a heck of a lot nicer than a Prius and most other low-cost hybrids.
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Aug 31, 2020 05:32
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Mr Interweb posted:well i mean, they have engines based on the kind of driver you are right? They do! And based on the kind of driver I can tell you are, you want... No, you need something with a Hellcat engine. You'll thank me later.
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Aug 31, 2020 06:08
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KillHour posted:They do! And based on the kind of driver I can tell you are, you want... No, you need something with a Hellcat engine. I have never in my life been more tempted to start the car game.
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Aug 31, 2020 06:37
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It's 2020, no cars sold in the USA are underpowered enough to be unsafe and i would argue that no cars are underpowered either It can certainly feel that way in places with ridiculously short onramps and heavy traffic, like the 101 in LA around echo park / silverlake or the pasadena freeway.
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Aug 31, 2020 08:01
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Mr Interweb posted:i'd say roughly 20-30 miles per day? You drive somewhat below average, then, I'll call it 10k miles a year that splits the difference. For a 52mpg combined Corolla Hybrid vs a 33mpg combined Corolla, you will save about 110 gallons of gas per year, so roughly $275/year. The Corolla LE is $20,750 and the Hybrid is $23,400, for a $2,650 price difference. You'll roughly make it back in a bit under 10 years. The Hybrid will retain a bit of resale value, so maybe more like eight years. luminalflux posted:It can certainly feel that way in places with ridiculously short onramps and heavy traffic, like the 101 in LA around echo park / silverlake or the pasadena freeway. The slowest poo poo you can buy in the US runs mid 10s.
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Aug 31, 2020 13:55
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luminalflux posted:It can certainly feel that way in places with ridiculously short onramps and heavy traffic, like the 101 in LA around echo park / silverlake or the pasadena freeway. Those onramps were built between 1953 and 1955. A 1953 Corvette took 11 seconds to get to 60. A 2020 Mitsubishi Mirage (The slowest car available in the country right now according to 10 seconds of googling) can get to 60 in 12 seconds. For comparison, a 1959 Mini Cooper took 29+ seconds to get to 60. A 1954 Beetle 1200 took 35 seconds. I agree that a Prius feels really slow, but its 10.2 second 0-60 time would have been exhilarating when those ramps were built. No car sold new in America today is slow enough to be unsafe.
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Aug 31, 2020 17:55
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Number_6 posted:FWIW, I don't have an Insight, and have in fact never even driven one--but I've read some very positive reviews in Motor Trend etc. and I think they look a heck of a lot nicer than a Prius and most other low-cost hybrids. yeah, i just discovered them yesterday and they look pretty nice KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You drive somewhat below average, then, I'll call it 10k miles a year that splits the difference. For a 52mpg combined Corolla Hybrid vs a 33mpg combined Corolla, you will save about 110 gallons of gas per year, so roughly $275/year. The Corolla LE is $20,750 and the Hybrid is $23,400, for a $2,650 price difference. You'll roughly make it back in a bit under 10 years. The Hybrid will retain a bit of resale value, so maybe more like eight years. i suppose it's worth pointing out that the reason i drive so little to begin with isn't out of personal choice. my car's pretty old so i can't really drive very far distances and in recent years, various parts have been getting broken so i try to minimize my driving time to things that are just necessary. if i had a new car, those driving habits would change significantly, i'd imagine
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Aug 31, 2020 18:54
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Tricky Ed posted:Those onramps were built between 1953 and 1955. A 1953 Corvette took 11 seconds to get to 60. A 2020 Mitsubishi Mirage (The slowest car available in the country right now according to 10 seconds of googling) can get to 60 in 12 seconds. I think the big problem with this is the F-150s and whatnot all going 80 instead and forgetting whatever ‘merge’ or ‘right lane ends’ could mean, not necessarily road design issues. There is a busy 50mph road near me that is lined with strip mall/big box stores. We have a stop sign at the end of the on ramp, and the entry lane exits again immediately on the other side of an overpass. I would actually appreciate a lot more acceleration than my Focus had, because we would literally have to floor it to not get rear ended. Ah, Boston 
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Aug 31, 2020 19:13
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BadSamaritan posted:I would actually appreciate a lot more acceleration than my Focus had, because we would literally have to floor it to not get rear ended. Ah, Boston In a city full of notoriously awful drivers, on a road that required you to accelerate hard to safely join traffic, your car had enough power to get up to speed and merge. But, because you had to actually use all the power that's available and push the pedal to the floor, it's "underpowered?" It is OK to push the gas pedal all the way down and "literally floor it" if you need to get up to speed quickly. It is OK for the tachometer to go near the red line, as long as the engine is warm. It is OK for your engine to make loud noises when you are asking it to deliver power. It is OK to make decisive inputs, especially now that ABS, traction control, and stability control are nearly universal.
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Aug 31, 2020 21:21
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I've noticed some newer cars seem to be accounting for people not wanting to push the pedal to the floor in their drive by wire tuning. Our 2015 Mazda3 felt really zippy if you only got lightly on the gas, but if you continued to push the pedal to the floor you discover that it was basically floored already. I also remember the WRX has its throttle mapped so the ECU is requesting 90% engine power at like 10% pedal position.
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Aug 31, 2020 21:50
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throttle mapping is hosed these days because Americans are bitchmade and complain about cars being underpowered when they apply 20% throttle
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Aug 31, 2020 21:57
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