|
SimonSays posted:Thanks for the advice about the bark. We already scraped a couple of them but I'll finish the job before putting them away. Timbor is much cheaper and should do the job if there are no bugs in it currently:https://www.domyown.com/timbor-professional-p-144.html GEMorris posted:Often processors will allow wood to air dry first, down to a certain MC, and then Kiln dry. Kilns are often the bottleneck and using them to do what time and the environment would do automatically was often seen as a waste of energy and capital resources. A good bit of the cost of lumber is in the drying, and it absolutely is a bottleneck. 5-6 years ago there were a few months when our distributor couldn't get any walnut. All the sudden it was the hot wood, but it with a few months of air drying and then a week or two in the kiln, it takes 6 months to get a log from the woods to the distributor and supply couldn't keep up with suddenly increased demand. When China quit buying american hardwoods due to the trade war apparently some drying operations really got hosed because of the time it takes to dry stuff. If they had bought green oak for $.90/bf and planned to seel it for $1.25/bf, they were only able to sell the dry wood for $.95/bf 6 months later which didn't nearly cover their costs etc.
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 19:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 03:19 |
|
|
Old US furniture plants usually ran their own drying ops, the one weird thing about furniture manufacturing in the US was how much of finishing processes etc were established and sometimes even run, in the furniture factory, by an outside finish supplier.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 19:29
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you can, mixing up some boracare/timbor and spraying it all over with that before stickering will help with the bugs. Powderpost beetles absolutely love maple and birch ime and if it's not going in a kiln, they are about impossible to get rid of. I'll look around at what I can find in Canada!
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 21:12
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:Also if you use a kiln to dry your wood too fast (very easy to do if it is super green) then you can end up with case hardening and all sorts of other problems. Ask me about the lot of flash-dried Arkansas walnut I bought out of a storage facility that later warped and twisted all to hell. (no, don't ask, that's rhetorical, please let me forget about it again) One other thing is that kiln dried lumber properly done typically takes the moisture down to around 6% iirc, as opposed to 11 or 12 at best via natural air drying. Which is still totally usable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2020 23:11
|
|
|
https://i.imgur.com/CJSz8bl.mp4 I made a bench! First of nine total. I wanted a low maintenance surface treatment. Wood is northern white cedar. Next benches will only have the top flame'd and that will be done pre-assembly in one big batch.     Dog for scale.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 00:38
|
|
|
Any recommendations for dado sets? I have the lovely Avanti one and it doesn't cut flat bottoms at all. I'm probably not going to go for Forrest or Ridge Carbide, but I'm willing to spend $100-175 ish probably. Unless there's some reason I can't think of why I would really need an 8" dado set, 6" would probably be fine. I've never cut a dado more than ~3/4" deep before. Also, are magnetic shims worth it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 01:37
|
|
|
more falafel please posted:Any recommendations for dado sets? I have the lovely Avanti one and it doesn't cut flat bottoms at all. I'm probably not going to go for Forrest or Ridge Carbide, but I'm willing to spend $100-175 ish probably. Unless there's some reason I can't think of why I would really need an 8" dado set, 6" would probably be fine. I've never cut a dado more than ~3/4" deep before. I have the 8” Freud (maybe diablo?) set from Home Depot and it has worked fine for me. I’m not sure if it makes perfectly flat bottoms because that’s not something I’ve ever really paid attention to. It’s not a wobble dado that makes curved bottoms if that helps? E: I have this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-8-in-x-12-Teeth-Stacked-Dado-Saw-Blade-Set-DD208H/100086071 Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Sep 9, 2020 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 02:27
|
|
|
The 8" Freud super dado set is excellent (though just a bit higher than that price range). I don't have any experience with 6" dado sets, but the 6" version is cheaper. That said, I used an 8" Olshun dado set (Amazon) for about 4 years and it was honestly 90% as good as the freud. Slight bat ears at the corners, but nothing bad. e: magnetic shims are imo not worth it. It just takes a little wiggle and normal shims free up nicely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 02:29
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have the 8” Freud (maybe diablo?) set from Home Depot and it has worked fine for me. I’m not sure if it makes perfectly flat bottoms because that’s not something I’ve ever really paid attention to. It’s not a wobble dado that makes curved bottoms if that helps? Yeah, by "not flat bottoms" I don't mean bat-ears, the chippers just aren't uniform diameter, so the bottom of the dado is just 5 strips of different depths. For anything that needs to look nice or actually fit snugly, I have to do a lot of work with a chisel. It sucks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 03:45
|
|
|
So I haven't used any other sets to personal comparisons too but the Olshun's mentioned are what I have and the biggest reason I got those instead of a bigger name like Freud is due to the full body chippers in what is a pretty affordable set. I've heard from multiple sources that poor dado set cut quality can be caused by the wing chippers in most sets and even some of the more expensive Freud sets seem to come with those for whatever reason.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 08:07
|
|
|
more falafel please posted:Yeah, by "not flat bottoms" I don't mean bat-ears, the chippers just aren't uniform diameter, so the bottom of the dado is just 5 strips of different depths. For anything that needs to look nice or actually fit snugly, I have to do a lot of work with a chisel. It sucks. Took some dado pictures I cut with the set above on my 20yr old delta Unisaw. It has 2 tooth wing chippers, not full round chippers. I’ve had it 3? years and never sharpened it, but I need to. It tears out cutting cross grain more than it used to. The tenon feels much smoother than it looks-all those lines are from the pointy edges/tips of the teeth, not different levels. Hopefully they help?   
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2020 15:32
|
|
|
What would be the recommended way to attach something like this https://www.etsy.com/listing/588713252/2-pack-2-wide-14-thick-metal-square to a table top so that it easily can be repeatedly detached and reattached?
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2020 03:29
|
|
|
don't worry, the racking forces will rip the screws out of your table top in no time flat anyway I'd go with through lag bolts of huge diameter and big washers top and bottom and still assume they're going to rock and divot into the wood and generally be horrible. You need something to brace your table top so it doesn't rock on those legs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2020 03:50
|
|
|
Leperflesh isn't wrong, in that if you want repeatable assembly/disassembly, bolts are generally the go-to solution. Screws into the wood itself will eat their holes to bits over time. You could hide the bolt holes in the top of the tabletop with decorative panels. That doesn't do a thing to solve the racking problem of course.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2020 03:56
|
|
|
You can use inserts like the ones below, ideally with epoxy, if you want to use a bolt or machine screw to attach something to wood without drilling all the way through and still have it be removable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YS2RGJK Still may tear the wood without adequate bracing if any racking forces are put on the piece.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2020 04:08
|
|
|
Anyone every used a round skew? I've seen some British production turners using them and they seem pretty slick, but they all also make every tool look like easymode.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2020 04:17
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone every used a round skew? I've seen some British production turners using them and they seem pretty slick, but they all also make every tool look like easymode. Like Bob Ross and a brush...gently caress you man, my trees are not happy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2020 19:43
|
|
|
Well I sold an old truck so I got $1500 to spend on tools. I was thinking thickness planer, table saw, and then maybe a jointer. I am trying to go used and saw this on Craigslist:  They want $700. Is that a good deal? I am building a bassinet at the moment so I don't need to work with large pieces of lumber.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 15:36
|
|
|
Big Dick Cheney posted:Well I sold an old truck so I got $1500 to spend on tools. I was thinking thickness planer, table saw, and then maybe a jointer. I am trying to go used and saw this on Craigslist: In my area (Seattle) it would not be a good deal. While Powermatic is a great brand, that’s still a contractor style saw and in my opinion is only worth $2-300max. For $700 you’re nearly at hybrid contractor saw territory buying new.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 15:58
|
|
|
Big Dick Cheney posted:Well I sold an old truck so I got $1500 to spend on tools. I was thinking thickness planer, table saw, and then maybe a jointer. I am trying to go used and saw this on Craigslist: It's an okay to good deal because of the extended Biesmeyer style fence. Although Powermatic have always been the pricey tool kids on the block, I agree with Falco it's essentially a very nice contractor saw....see if he'll take 5 benjamins.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 17:08
|
|
|
I can't tell 100% but does that have a riving knife? Looks like it may not. Personally I'd rather spend that money on a new Hybrid rather than an old PM missing a critical safety feature. Also personal preference, I hate those skeletonized wings, how am I supposed to pile all my crap on the table like that?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 17:59
|
|
|
I'm sure a powermatic contractor saw is a nice contractor saw, but ehhhhh on spending $700 on a used contractor saw. They have often lived very hard lives if they've actually been used by contractors.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 18:03
|
|
|
Thanks everyone. I thought $700 was a little high and I'm not very experienced with tool purchasing. I'll keep looking, the guy won't go down to $500.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 18:26
|
|
|
Elem7 posted:I can't tell 100% but does that have a riving knife? Looks like it may not. No riving knife and it is belt driven with the motor hanging off the back. I am with you on the wings, they were a cheaper option and to reduce weight on contractor saws. As for price, I have seen them range from 400-1000 on Craigslist. Finally got my jointer  Grizzly had sent a replacement since UPS lost the first. It showed up and then the next day UPS was back with a second one. Guess they found the first when they received the second.  Getting it up onto the stand was fun. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 18:30
|
|
|
Any thickness planer recommendations? I have about $500-$600 in the budget for one. Do I go with the Dewalt? Is the 735 worth the extra money? Or can I go cheaper? 12" is plenty for what I'm going to use it for.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 20:20
|
|
|
Get the 735, that thing is the gold standard for any planer below $1500 or so. Like, you might be able to make the argument for the 734 or the Makita if lugging the thing around a jobsite was a thing you regularly did, but otherwise, just get the 735. Its like that Rigid oscillating spindle sander, one company does the thing so well everyone jist acknowledges it as the "default" for that job.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2020 20:35
|
|
|
A buddy recently inherited a small sailboat from his dad, and He’s been working on getting it back into shape. His first trip out, one of the cracks in the rudder turned into a full-on split that needed to be repaired, so he brought it over to my shop. Plan was to just saw it along the crack, run it over my jointer, add some dowels, and glue it back up. Unfortunately, taking a longer look at it revealed a bunch of other cracks that will soon need to be repaired and the whole rudder will be more dowels and epoxy than actual wood pretty soon So, pivot, building a new rudder and reusing the hardware from the old one. Simple enough, panel glue up, shaping, router out some slots for the hardware, etc. But what sort of finish do I want to use on something that is effectively living underwater? A bunch of coats of thin-set epoxy? Some sort of urethane? Also, just winging it with white oak for this thing, don’t know if that the correct wood, don’t think it should matter too terribly much?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 17:33
|
|
|
Sockser posted:A buddy recently inherited a small sailboat from his dad, and He’s been working on getting it back into shape. I suppose you can use oak, 19th century ships' hulls were made of it. I'd think a more flexible wood, especially a tropical type used in water settings might be more fitting, however. Finish-wise, idk, you might look for some sailing forums to get hands-on opinions. I think there's a boaty guy who posts sometimes itt who'd likely have a better answer.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 17:55
|
|
|
Well, I bought the Oshlun 8" dado set, and it's basically a dream. It's easier to set up with the teeth evenly spaced, the quality of the cut is much nicer (it's smooth, even across the grain of crappy plywood), and it actually cuts flat bottoms (with bat ears, but I know that's to be expected). Plus, it has a 3/32" chipper, which would have been way handier when I was cutting shittons of dados in undersized 3/4" plywood for shop furniture. I did a test cut with the stack set up for 23/32", and it was just a bit snug on some other pieces of undersized plywood, but I'd rather shim that up to a nice fit than deal with shimming up from 11/16". The only drawback is that it doesn't come with a case, so I guess I have to make something now 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 20:14
|
|
|
Yeah but you can make the case using the dado set!
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 20:55
|
|
|
I'm a woodworking beginner that just stained his first project, and I'm wondering what I should use for a finish. The thing I made is a decoration that will be up on a wall, not furniture, so I don't expect a lot of wear and tear on it. I got myself a spray can of polyurethane, which seems like an easy and quick method, but my grandmother-in-law, who used to do a bunch of woodworking herself, insists that stuff is garbage and gave me a can of finishing wax. Everything I've researched so far says that wax can be a bit of a time consuming pain to get right. I tried it out on some other pieces I tested the stain out on and I didn't really like the way it looked, but I'm very much willing to believe I didn't do it right. Any advice would be appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 21:18
|
|
|
Sockser posted:A buddy recently inherited a small sailboat from his dad, and He’s been working on getting it back into shape. White oak (heartwood only) is a durable, rot-resistant wood that I would think should be fine for a rudder. You may want to use quarter/rift sawn so the rudder stays flatter? Oak isn't the most stable wood. Teak is the gold (and also $$$$$) standard for nautical woods, but alot of other tropical hardwoods are good too-ipe, cumaru, purpleheart, genuine mahogany, spanish cedar to some extent. Black locust is a really good domestic boatbuilding wood but hard to find. I'm not sure about coatings exactly. I'm about to have to do some finishing on parts for a boat and I need to make a deeper dive into it. From what I understand, modern thinking is to not rely so heavily on rot-resistant woods, but rather to coat them in a completely watertight way. I think this usually involves epoxy, and then coating the epoxy (which generally has poor UV resistance) with spar varnish or paint or something? If it's a pretty simple solid board of rot resistant wood, leaving it unfinished and just replacing it every 10 years as needed may be easier and cheaper than than trying to make a waterproof finish, especially on a part that stays submerged? I think there is boat thread in AI somewhere-you might check there too. JEEVES420 posted:No riving knife and it is belt driven with the motor hanging off the back. I am with you on the wings, they were a cheaper option and to reduce weight on contractor saws.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 21:22
|
|
|
Most of a year ago, I got some pine logs from a neighbor's tree and milled them into boards on my bandsaw. I painted the ends and put them on stickers in my workshop, on top of some old construction lumber that's been sitting around for the better part of a decade. Notably, I did not debark them. A few days ago I checked in on them and found a bunch of little piles of sawdust from some kind of insect.  Aside from debarking the boards (I've already done a couple, and found several insect tracks), what else do I need to do to protect my shop and its contents? Almost all of my project wood is kiln-dried, which I seem to recall makes it more resilient against insects? But the construction lumber, including the exposed studs and rafters and so on of the workshop itself, mostly isn't.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 21:30
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Most of a year ago, I got some pine logs from a neighbor's tree and milled them into boards on my bandsaw. I painted the ends and put them on stickers in my workshop, on top of some old construction lumber that's been sitting around for the better part of a decade. Notably, I did not debark them. A few days ago I checked in on them and found a bunch of little piles of sawdust from some kind of insect. Are the powderpost beetles going to eat your shop and all the wood you have stored in it? Probably/hopefully not. The ones that eat softwoods require fairly wet (14%+ MC) wood from I can tell. This is a very informative article I just found because I was curious: https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef616 oh dope posted:I'm a woodworking beginner that just stained his first project, and I'm wondering what I should use for a finish. The thing I made is a decoration that will be up on a wall, not furniture, so I don't expect a lot of wear and tear on it. I got myself a spray can of polyurethane, which seems like an easy and quick method, but my grandmother-in-law, who used to do a bunch of woodworking herself, insists that stuff is garbage and gave me a can of finishing wax. Everything I've researched so far says that wax can be a bit of a time consuming pain to get right. I tried it out on some other pieces I tested the stain out on and I didn't really like the way it looked, but I'm very much willing to believe I didn't do it right. Any advice would be appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 21:56
|
|
|
oh dope posted:I'm a woodworking beginner that just stained his first project, and I'm wondering what I should use for a finish. The thing I made is a decoration that will be up on a wall, not furniture, so I don't expect a lot of wear and tear on it. I got myself a spray can of polyurethane, which seems like an easy and quick method, but my grandmother-in-law, who used to do a bunch of woodworking herself, insists that stuff is garbage and gave me a can of finishing wax. Everything I've researched so far says that wax can be a bit of a time consuming pain to get right. I tried it out on some other pieces I tested the stain out on and I didn't really like the way it looked, but I'm very much willing to believe I didn't do it right. Any advice would be appreciated! Grandma is right, but you can still compromise because wax is like a zero finish. Hit it with a good coat from the rattle can, rub that down with 0000 steel wool, and then go over it with the wax. That way you can tell Grandma truthfully you did it her way. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 22:05
|
|
|
 Posting a shop update as I finally installed the router in the bandsaw table extension.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 22:41
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Congratulations, you have some species of powder post beetle! Being kiln dried doesn't necessarily protect wood, but kiln drying (actually the staying at 140F+ for a few days) kills any bugs/eggs already in/on the wood, and the lower MC makes it generally less desirable. I would remove the infested boards from your shop asap. Personally I'd call them firewood, but there is a product called Boracare that you can treat them with. Supposedly it penetrates deep enough into the wood to kill the things, but I have my doubts about that. If the pieces are small enough to fit in your oven, you can park them in there at low temp for a few hours. The center of the board needs to get to 140 for a decent bit of time, and wood is a very good insulator. This is also going to probably cause your wood to check up pretty badly. Bleh, thanks. I was looking forward to working with some home-milled wood, but yeah, it's not worth the hassle for some small pine slabs. Any idea if I can put the painted ends into my yard waste bin?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 22:43
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:
Dang you really fit a ton into a small space. Is that an inca bandsaw? I've always heard good things but never known anyone that had one-I'd love to have one of their smaller ones as a tiny but decent bandsaw to take onsite.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2020 23:09
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
It's pine. I found several planks of it in the crawlspace of my new house, and since I've been thinking about getting into woodworking for a while now, it seemed like destiny. Mr. Mambold posted:Grandma is right, but you can still compromise because wax is like a zero finish. Hit it with a good coat from the rattle can, rub that down with 0000 steel wool, and then go over it with the wax. That way you can tell Grandma truthfully you did it her way. If I go this route, I assume I would give the polyurethane 24 hours before the steel wool and wax? It says "fast drying" on the can but I don't really have a frame of reference for that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 00:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 03:19 |
|
|
I decided if I'm not gonna turn those boards into anything then I might as well use them to cover over some of the spots where Pavlov, my dog, likes to dig. So now they're a chew toy, I guess.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2020 00:27
|
|