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Colostomy Bag posted:The 3800 is a tank. Here's hoping. The safety inspection gave a clean bill of health. The Buick has quite a few features I've never had in a car before, including power windows and seats, all wheel disc brakes, a set of winter tires on rims, heated side mirrors, some sort of GM satellite radio thingy... Though I noticed the transmission develops a certain high-pitched whine if you floor it. As this is totally without any harsh shifts or any other abnormal behavior, I'm not sure if that's how the transmission is, or a sign of a problem. Quick googling revealed several minor issues that can cause it.
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Sep 20, 2020 01:45
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My grey car is making a noise. 09 Corolla 2.4litre. It's making a sound like a 'buzzy humm'. Think of a propeller plane sound from movie. It changes with vehicle speed and doesn't *seem* to go away when I go left or right. My first inclination is that it's a wheel bearing. But as I mentioned it doesn't seem to go away when I turn left or right. It seems like it comes from the driver side though I could be wrong. Had the car up on a jack and tried to wobble the wheels and what not but no noticeable play. If it was a worn wheel bearing the abs light may come on would it not? Since there doesn't seem to be any play in the bearing, would a noise like that be indicative of a seizing bearing? I haven't measured the temperature of my hubs but that's my next course of action. A bearing that going to seize would be noticeably hotter? What about a bad CV joint? I feel like It's probably the driver side rear bearing but maybe I'm wrong.
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Sep 20, 2020 03:10
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That sounds like a classic wheel bearing failure. It'll sound a bit rumbly at first. It will get louder. If you reach peak Fat Lady, the hub may be preparing for an unplanned disassembly. The CEL for the sensor will occur within a week or so if you're driving it daily.
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Sep 20, 2020 04:31
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Not... always. I've had a bad wheel bearing for several months on my car. The only time I've had the ABS light come on is when I put the car on jackstands and put it in drive, was trying to see if I had a bent hub or wheel (it was the hub). ABS light came on because the ABS kicked in when I applied the brakes - not all of the wheels stopped at the same time, it got pissy over that. Nebakenezzer posted:Here's hoping. The safety inspection gave a clean bill of health. The Buick has quite a few features I've never had in a car before, including power windows and seats, all wheel disc brakes, a set of winter tires on rims, heated side mirrors, some sort of GM satellite radio thingy... You sure it's the transmission? I remember my mom's 3800 whining a bit at high RPMs. I always chalked it up to the alternator or power steering pump. It had ~20k when she got it, ~50k when she got rid of it. Granted, a much older 3800 (it was in a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue - she got it around 2001), but still essentially the same engine. Sounded exactly like every other 3800 I've heard wound up. The car I have now is my first with power seats, heated mirrors, heated windshield, and heated seats. First with antilock brakes. 2nd with 4 wheel discs. That GM satellite thing is either OnStar, or OnStar + SiriusXM. SiriusXM is pretty neat if you drive a lot, though the streaming plan is a better deal (especially if you have unlimited data on your phone) and actually works everywhere. OnStar is nice if you want a safety net in case of an accident, but it's expensive after that free 3 month trial is up (they'll always haggle on pricing though, they'd rather sell the service close to their cost if it means keeping a customer on the books).
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Sep 20, 2020 08:30
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, public transport in Pitt is really good, the city is very walkable, and parking is really bad. I wouldn’t take a car to the city proper if I didn’t absolutely have to. I think I have to spend $200-$300 a month to park my truck. I guess it's okay. So the plan is, drive. Park. Then take public transport. Lol I posted way too much information in that post but I guess it's too late now, I was bored at work.
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Sep 20, 2020 10:57
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Nebakenezzer posted:Here's hoping. The safety inspection gave a clean bill of health. The Buick has quite a few features I've never had in a car before, including power windows and seats, all wheel disc brakes, a set of winter tires on rims, heated side mirrors, some sort of GM satellite radio thingy... Yank the trans dipstick, see if the fluid is pink. The 4t60/4t65 aren't the greatest in the world. If you start getting hard shifts it is a good chance it is the pressure control solenoid. Bad news on that is the valve body cover sits behind the subframe which is a lot of work to get out of the way.
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Sep 20, 2020 14:56
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C-Bangin' it 
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STR posted:You sure it's the transmission? I remember my mom's 3800 whining a bit at high RPMs. I always chalked it up to the alternator or power steering pump. It had ~20k when she got it, ~50k when she got rid of it. Granted, a much older 3800 (it was in a 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue - she got it around 2001), but still essentially the same engine. Sounded exactly like every other 3800 I've heard wound up. I am totally not sure it is the transmission, it could be those things. Will observe and report. Also, anti-lock, add that to the list of firsts :fist bump: Colostomy Bag posted:Yank the trans dipstick, see if the fluid is pink. e: did that, fluid is pink, no metal bits, no burny smell if that's a thing with the fluid
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Sep 20, 2020 14:57
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Yeah trans fluid can absolutely smell burnt. Usually starts getting darker by then.
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Sep 20, 2020 19:31
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My wifes mini is missing a gel decal on her door, ive bought a replacement but how the hel do I stick the thing? Just glue? The backsdie is slightly tacky so that it sticks to the plastic it came in. Do I heat gun it?
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Sep 21, 2020 10:28
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Anyone have a trailer tire recommendation for the 205/75/15 size? I know gently caress all about these things. e: here, have a pic of a 14ft aluminum trailer 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 00:48
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone have a trailer tire recommendation for the 205/75/15 size? I know gently caress all about these things. Been happy with the stock ones on my 9k tandem axle dump trailer in that size. Rainier - https://www.tredittire.com/tire/rainier-st/
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Sep 23, 2020 02:26
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I have Trailer Kings on my trailer. They're round, they hold air. PO of the trailer put them on not long before selling it.
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Sep 23, 2020 04:09
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excellent bird guy posted:Can I get some advice about moving to the city? I am taking a temp job (13 weeks) in South Pittsburgh, a pretty hoppin nightlife area so parking will be on the street. My job is only 2 miles away and I could take a bus. For groceries, you can use a rolling grocery cart thing if you don't wanna carry them. Bringing in a backpack is also fine. If you have more questions, feel free to ask in the Pittsburgh thread. Edit also $200-300 a month to park may or may not be a lot of money to you but it's a lot of money for almost every other neighborhood in Pittsburgh. I wouldn't spend the cash on it if I lived in the Flats. Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 06:21
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PainterofCrap posted:That sounds like a classic wheel bearing failure. It'll sound a bit rumbly at first. It will get louder. If you reach peak Fat Lady, the hub may be preparing for an unplanned disassembly. Yup, brought it in yesterday. Left front. 720 buckos later its fixed. Guess my brake rotors can wait for a bit..... sigh..
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Sep 23, 2020 11:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:I have Trailer Kings on my trailer. Motronic posted:Been happy with the stock ones on my 9k tandem axle dump trailer in that size. Rainier - https://www.tredittire.com/tire/rainier-st/ Thanks, I'll check these both out. I'm just half surprised that the normal brands don't really have anything
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Sep 23, 2020 16:55
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So I don't know poo poo about cars, let alone car electronics. The cigarette lighter in the car wasn't working and the internet told me to try changing the fuse. I got the exact same fuze, same voltage and swapped them out. It was a 15v blue fuse that was here - https://ibb.co/NnjbLY0 Now, when I start the car there is a very loud screeching / distorted noise and the car doesn't start. The lights on the dash and front also go haywire and 'strobe'. Sounds kinda like this, but much louder: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/h8ncn7/screaming_fuse_panel/. This is only for a second before I turn the key back off. What the hell? I used the exact same component in the exact same place. I put the old one back, same result. Tried without both in, same result. Any idea what the hell happened? The locks and radio are fine and the car still has power, but won't start. It's a Golf mk5 2016. That'll teach me for trying something myself 
henpod fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 17:32
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Why did the fuse blow? (They don't generally fail because of age or anything like that - it's because something was shorted or too large of a load was plugged in. Did you plug in something weird? Spill a drink near the outlet?)
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Sep 23, 2020 17:36
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Nope, nothing like that. I don' think anything blew, there was no pop or any indication of that.Swapped a like-for-like fuse and then this happened. Maybe the battery drained overnight for some reason although we've driven the car a lot recently. I suspect the new head unit maybe has been draining the battery, but the guy who installed it said not to worry about that. If that's the case, I'm gonna kill him. Either way, its a bit of a coincidence that I changed the fuse and this then happened, plus would a battery drain in just one day? Anyway, my wife's dad who knows about cars is gonna have a look tomorrow and test the battery. Thanks for the reply 
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Sep 23, 2020 18:27
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Probably the battery. Should be fairly easy to measure parasitic draw if in fact the guy messed something up.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:53
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Yeah, agreed. A headunit can easily drain a battery in a day, absolutely.
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Sep 23, 2020 19:17
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Thanks guys. I'm pretty annoyed because I specifically told him about a wire he was supposed to disconnect to stop battery drain but he waved it away, so I figured he was the expert and let him do his thing. It's weird because we've gone days without using the car (after head unit installation) and it started just fine. This was just 24 hours after a bunch of driving. Anyway, I don't know poo poo, but thanks for taking the time to reply.
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Sep 24, 2020 10:12
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It's possible the battery just crapped. How old is the battery?
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Sep 24, 2020 14:40
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask. I got my first car ever this week and want to know what essentials I should buy for it. Recommendations for specific products that are easy to use (I don't know anything about cars) would be preferred, but essentials for car maintenance (simple stuff like oil changes) would be helpful as well.
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Sep 24, 2020 15:37
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Make and model? I'd get a cheap set of tools just to handle random things that may come up (eg, have a wrench on hand to disconnect the battery). Harbor Freight is fine for the occasional use, the sockets are pretty good, but they're cheap and sometimes get what you pay for. I stick with the Pittsburg Pro line, but hear good things about the new ICON line. Sockets and screwdrivers are good enough for the most basic things, I buy more specific tools depending on the job and vehicle. Basic socket set: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/38-in-drive-sae-metric-high-visibility-socket-set-21-pc-61954.html Could go cheaper if you know you need SAE or metric only. (EDIT: looks like they are getting rid of the "Pro" branding, looking for ratchets with the rubber grip handles, the all metal ones are trash) I'd also get a big rear end breaker bar and a socket to fit your lug nuts to get the wheels off. It's easier than using whatever was included with the car. I keep one in the car. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/sockets-ratchets/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html My German cars love Torx and Hex fasteners. I personally like to use sockets for these as I can use them as a screwdriver, on a ratchet, or with a power tool. My Harbor Freight ones have broken often with light use. My Capri sets have held up better, but still have had smaller bits broken by coworkers (  ). I'd probably get Gearwrench next time, but may not be worth the money for you. L-wrenches are an affordable alternative. Tekton or Bondhaus are good. I keep some one hand as a backup and sometimes they just reach where a socket can't. Check your model to see what you actually need in this case, especially if it's metric or SAE. Also have a couple of pairs of pliers for clips and things. Needle nose if you can. That should handle most basic tasks around the car. Oil changes require a drain pan and a funnel and something to get the filter off. Whatever works for the first two, the filter tool would depend on the specific car. NEVER EVER get under a car without a jack stand. I don't have a specific suggestion for this except not Harbor Freight. They've had multiple recalls for failing ones. I've seen people talk about ones with a second locking pin, but don't have a specific brand to say right now. Look in the tool thread. A hydraulic jack makes lifting the car easier than whatever was included with the car (usually called a "widow jack", NEVER get under a car held up by a jack alone, no matter what kind). I like mine, but they don't make it anymore (or renamed it). It also doesn't lift high enough to be useful on my mom's SUV. I've heard good things about the Dayton jacks at HF. HF has coupons. Use them. The jacks go on sale often, don't pay full price. The also take back broken hand tools. Tip: get a bottle of anti-seize and put a little bit on the round part of the wheel hub (see red arrow) when you take the wheels off. It makes getting them off next time so much easier, especially if you experience snow. Don't get it on the brakes, don't put it on the threads, don't get it on your clothes, just a little goes a very long way.  For stuff in the car, jumper cables, spare phone charger, I personally keep things to keep me comfortable and safe while calling for help (I have an extra gear bag for the winter in case I need to make a trek in the snow). Maybe consider if AAA works for your habits. Wirecutter has a pretty decent breakdown. https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-gear-for-a-roadside-emergency/ Uthor fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 16:36
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The make and model is a 2017 EDIT: Honda (I'm a moron) Accord Sport, not sure what metrics they use. Thanks for your recommendations!
Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 16:59
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Honda makes the Accord  99.99% sure every fastener on that car will be metric, at least. Oh, I forgot to list Google. First thing I do every time I work on my car is type in "2016 Honda Accord [repair] diy" and look for forum posts and YouTube videos. Beyond showing how to do something, they'll list the tools and anything else you need. Uthor fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 17:30
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I can think of a half a dozen fasteners that may be SAE, but it's extremely unlikely you will be removing or installing your seatbelts, so it's not your problem. Everything else will be metric.
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Sep 24, 2020 17:41
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Have you insured your car with the same company since you’ve leased it? The reason I ask is because you can try this gambit - do nothing now, turn in the car at the end of the lease. If they don’t ding you, great, you’re done. If they do say something and you’ve insured the car with the same company the entire time, you just didn’t notice it until now and then you can submit a claim. Since you’ve had the same insurance company the entire time, it had to have happened during a covered policy period. Yeah, it's always been Geico. That's clever. The Slack channel already turned me on to paint repair pens, so I'm gonna do that and if they notice, keep this in my back pocket.
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Sep 24, 2020 17:54
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kastein posted:I can think of a half a dozen fasteners that may be SAE, but it's extremely unlikely you will be removing or installing your seatbelts, so it's not your problem. Everything else will be metric. I don't know where the goon is from*, but the lugnuts might be imperial rather than metric. *Don't know what its like outside North Freedomerica.
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Sep 24, 2020 18:02
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Mom's CR-V of the same year has metric lug nuts.
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Sep 24, 2020 18:10
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Most passenger vehicles rolling in the US are either 19mm, which a 3/4" will fit, or 21mm, which is approximately 13/16"
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Sep 24, 2020 23:30
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MRC48B posted:Most passenger vehicles rolling in the US are either 19mm, which a 3/4" will fit, My VW was 17 mm, which 11/16" would fit, but a bit sloppily.
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Sep 25, 2020 00:15
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Chromed lug nuts often swell up so you need a loose fitting socket for those anyway.
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Sep 25, 2020 12:41
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And then the rust gets crushed and falls out and the stupid loving chrome condom gets jammed in your socket It took me 15 minutes to pry one of those fuckers out with a Leatherman on the side of the road once. Never again. I replace those lovely loving lug nuts right off the bat now.
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Sep 25, 2020 17:44
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spankmeister posted:Chromed lug nuts often swell up so you need a loose fitting socket for those anyway. Doesn't that only happen to lovely 90s gm products? I figured we had evolved past that now.
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Sep 25, 2020 21:49
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Ford does it too. I didn't even realize it when my wife first got her car because I threw gorilla lugs on it right away, but I worked on her cousin's similar year F150 which had the same style lug, and we had that problem. (This was a 2016 F150.)
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Sep 25, 2020 21:51
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Definitely had to start using the plain nuts from my winter wheels full time two years ago on my Fiesta when the factory plastic capped crap gave out.
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Sep 25, 2020 23:38
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wesleywillis posted:Doesn't that only happen to lovely 90s gm products? Jeep cherokee and Comanche as well.
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Sep 26, 2020 01:10
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Holy gently caress. I remember working on pile of poo poo gm poo poo at a garage in the late 90s and that was standard stuff, the chrome caps with rust underneath you would curse them off before using a socket two sizes smaller to actually get the wheels off. Guess that survived longer than I thought.
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Sep 26, 2020 02:25
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How do I bench test an O2 sensor heater circuit? I tried one from ebay ($18), no dice, tried another from Rockauto ($120); seemingly solved the P1150, P1155 code. I just want to know how so I don't have to guess next time. specifically this is an Air/Fuel Ratio sensor.
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Sep 26, 2020 22:01
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