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Calling this one done I think     
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Sep 13, 2020 22:44
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Neddy Seagoon posted:There is, in the same kit line! lilljonas posted:An alternative to hlj is:
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Sep 13, 2020 22:55
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Symetrique posted:Calling this one done I think Amazing work on such a tiny plane!
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Sep 14, 2020 01:23
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Symetrique posted:Calling this one done I think Adorable. Oh, and in walmart recently in the craft section I spent $30 on a fiskars kit that contains several hobby saws, knives and chisels. It is good if you need those things
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Sep 14, 2020 01:53
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Thanks! Pretty happy with the way it turned out. Definitely need to take a break from 1/144 for a bit though.
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Sep 14, 2020 03:37
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Okay, so I've assembled, painted, decalled, and varnished my first tank. Weathering is next... Planning some chipping, oil dots, pin washes and then mud. Obviously the mud goes on last but does the order really matter for the rest?
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Sep 19, 2020 00:54
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Chipping should go before oils since all the other effects will blend it in.
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Sep 19, 2020 02:37
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Depends on your chipping method. I did silver pencil chipping on my recent B-25 as the penultimate step before pastels. For a tank chipped with a sponge or something to that effect, I would do that before much weathering.
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Sep 19, 2020 03:38
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What’s a good brush-on gray primer? I’ll be somewhere I can’t use my airbrush or a can of spray. Any tricks/tips for brushing it on? I’m afraid I’ll apply it too thick or leave brush marks behind.
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Sep 20, 2020 02:16
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Multiple lighter layers works better with brush painting.
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Sep 20, 2020 02:51
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Lincoln posted:What’s a good brush-on gray primer? I’ll be somewhere I can’t use my airbrush or a can of spray. Any tricks/tips for brushing it on? I’m afraid I’ll apply it too thick or leave brush marks behind. Vallejo surface primer it levels and shrinks I think. I've never had a problem brushing it on and I've gone too thin and too thick without any real issues. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Sep 20, 2020 |
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Sep 20, 2020 03:36
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Seconding vallejo surface primer, I like it. Still hard to get even coats brushing on thing like planes.
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Sep 20, 2020 06:00
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use a big flat brush. 1 inch flat is my preferred.
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Sep 20, 2020 06:02
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Avenger flight crew and crew chief are done. First figures I've painted in probably 4-5 years, but I think they turned out really well. I see a few places I can improve next time, but I had so much fun doing this. I think I'll have to start painting more figures for my kits. All told, these guys represent about 15-16hrs of work. The two standing guys are Black Dog resin figures. The pointing one will have a map in his hands. The kneeling guy is a Reedoak 3D printed figure and the detail there is just amazing. Better than resin by far. The crew chief is an Ares Aerobonus "US Tow truck driver" who I will have sitting in the cockpit of the Avenger. I had to do some pretty major surgery to him to get him to fit the seat and rudder pedals in the Avenger. I'm going to put a chinstrap on is hat with a strip of Tamiya tape painted brown. The clipboard in his hands is scratch made, including the clip that doesn't show up well in the pic. I'm going to put a pencil in his hand and print a checklist to stick to the clipboard.     
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Sep 21, 2020 00:07
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Greetings, solvent aficionados! DIY Secret Santa signups are now open! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3941260
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Sep 22, 2020 19:31
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CF7AaWKAGo
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Sep 23, 2020 00:55
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Less flavor than the real thing, though not by much. I bought several for gag gifts this winter.
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Sep 23, 2020 01:09
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I want one for real it’s just so silly I love it
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Sep 23, 2020 12:58
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Hit a milestone today. (!!!) https://i.imgur.com/74bfQ3O.mp4
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Sep 26, 2020 22:00
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I haven't done any kits for a while. Probably because I'm running out of shelf room. Well, I got the bug and picked up a Tamiya P-38H to build. Of course the construction was a joy because it's Tamiya. Sometimes it's a bit dissapointing as in you want more of a build challenge, but I wanted to try to improve my paintwork on this one.     I wanted to do a European Lightning, because the base paint scheme was just too boring. So I had an excuse to do invasion stripes mostly. The markings probably don't fit historically, as I believe Tamiya included the markings for a Pacific bird. But gently caress it, I like it better this way. I considered doing a naked P-38, but my aluminum paint isn't that great and my airbrush setup hates spraying metallics. I ended up spraying it aluminum anyway, as I did all the fuselage chipping by hairspraying an aluminum base coat then painting the top coat and doing some toothpick work. It looks overdone at first, but once you do a wash over the panel joints it makes the chipping much more subdued. I did brush chipping on the smaller parts like the propellers and gear doors though, it turned out okay but I still think it ends up too blobby without a really deft touch.  Here's the problem though. gently caress canopies forever, I've never done a plane and not had the canopy turn into a shitshow. At least I didn't emboss a fingerprint on this one, but I have NO idea how that overspray of zinc chromate got INSIDE the rear canopy. I glued the canopy parts on before peeling the masking off, so once I noticed it it's too late. I'm still pondering a way to snake something in there to scrape it off. This kit is a "Special edition" which seems to mean it includes a canopy mask. Big selling point for me as I hate masking these things, but it's not pre-cut. It's literally a sheet of Tamiya masking tape with the proper shapes printed on, you have to cut them out with a knife. I'm fairly satisfied with it though, I may go back and add a bit more sooting effect behind the exhausts though.
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Sep 26, 2020 22:32
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Question for you guys. When I was growing up, my local playground/baseball field had an M41 Walker Bulldog in it that was part of the playground equipment. I have a lot of fond memories of climbing all over that tank, misidentifying it as a Patton, of course. Unfortunately a few years ago they "restored" and now have it on display beside the road. I was thinking of modeling a diorama of the tank as I remember it, as a weathered piece of playground equipment. Does anyone have any reccomendations for a good Walker Bulldog kit that would allow me to model the tank with its gun in the travel locked position, but also small enough to make into a diorama? (Top left is how I remember it) 
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Sep 28, 2020 02:54
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jadebullet posted:Question for you guys. When I was growing up, my local playground/baseball field had an M41 Walker Bulldog in it that was part of the playground equipment. I have a lot of fond memories of climbing all over that tank, misidentifying it as a Patton, of course. Tamiya makes an excellent Bulldog model. It's very no frills (no internals, rubber treads) but very affordable and it includes the parts for the travel locked position.
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Sep 28, 2020 03:17
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I did the Bandai Darth Vader's TIE & regular TIE fighter set after not doing any models for a while. I liked how they went so decided to do the R2-D2 and BB-8 kit. I have been really shocked at how well designed the kits have been. Aside from gluing a couple of pieces the BB-8 was practically a snap together kit. I grew up on Monogram and Revell and there were kits (specifically the big Corsair) that never wanted to fit together. I've started on the R2 kit and my only complaint is that the "head" isn't chrome. I want to paint it but I'm not sure what household glue (Elmers?) /paints / tape can be used as a mask.
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Sep 28, 2020 06:50
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jadebullet posted:Walker Bulldog Seconding the Tamiya kit. I bought a second for parts, even. Under no circumstances should you pay more than twenty dollars for the kit, and honestly fifteen is probably pushing it. If for whatever reason you can't find one at that price, let me know and I'll dig out my spare. Darth Brooks posted:I did the Bandai Darth Vader's TIE & regular TIE fighter set after not doing any models for a while. I liked how they went so decided to do the R2-D2 and BB-8 kit. I have been really shocked at how well designed the kits have been. Aside from gluing a couple of pieces the BB-8 was practically a snap together kit. I grew up on Monogram and Revell and there were kits (specifically the big Corsair) that never wanted to fit together. I've started on the R2 kit and my only complaint is that the "head" isn't chrome. I want to paint it but I'm not sure what household glue (Elmers?) /paints / tape can be used as a mask. Pretty much all Bandai's kits are designed to be snap fit; if you want to see some real ridiculous engineering, get you a nice Real Grade Gundam kit. As far as masking, I'd use regular old masking tape. Stick it down to a clean surface first, then peel it back up to tone down some of the adhesiveness. If you want to be real sure about leaks around the tape, paint a thin line of varnish around the edge to seal it.
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Sep 28, 2020 18:27
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jadebullet posted:Question for you guys. When I was growing up, my local playground/baseball field had an M41 Walker Bulldog in it that was part of the playground equipment. I have a lot of fond memories of climbing all over that tank, misidentifying it as a Patton, of course. I was gifted the kit a year or so ago and I'm 100% sure I'll never build it. I'm having a crappy day, so it would make me feel better to do some good in this world. If you want the kit and you're in the US, email me at cdouglasn (at) gmail.com and I'll send it to you gratis.
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Sep 28, 2020 20:27
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Gewehr 43 posted:Hit a milestone today. This is awesome! Doing the canopies is always my favorite part, but once the plane is together, it is so dark in there that you can't see any of the detail. I'm going to give the LED route a try on my next 1/32 or large 1/48 plane. What are you using for a motor? edit: if you want to diffuse the internal lights (or any LEDs) you can sand down the lens. As long as you don't sand into the metal and electronic parts, you're good. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 13:27
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SkunkDuster posted:This is awesome! Doing the canopies is always my favorite part, but once the plane is together, it is so dark in there that you can't see any of the detail. I'm going to give the LED route a try on my next 1/32 or large 1/48 plane. What are you using for a motor? Thanks! I'm pretty stoked with how it's coming along. I won't recommend the motor I'm using because under load, it builds up too much heat. So, I can't run it more than a couple minutes at a time without risking damage to the polystyrene surrounding it. Basically, it's trying to turn the prop at an RPM that it can't sustain under the load of the heavy propeller, so it's drawing too much current and building up heat. If/when I do this again, I'll try to find something that's higher torque, lower RPM so that I can avoid this problem. But, finding such a thing in the micro, brushless format, is proving difficult.
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Sep 29, 2020 16:41
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I finally finished picking at the AFV Club M5A1, early production style. It's a mixed bag.    Decals and instructions are thoroughly alright, and you do get a nice mix of countries and looks for your tank. There are some vinyl tracks, PE mesh grills and a metal barrel supplied, and those are also entirely adequate. The detail on the kit is really nice! Details are clear, and in ample supply. There's nice texture on the gun mantle, bolt heads and weld lines are nice and sharp even if they're molded straight onto the hull, raised features are all very sharp and clean. The problem is, to get all that detail, the engineering of the kit has some compromises, especially with the hull construction. Everything's built like it's flat-pack furniture - no hull tub, the turret's in multiple sections, you have to assemble individual door components for the engine hatches, etc. You don't have any jigs provided for you, nor is there any interior structure to speak of, so you have to eyeball the whole structure from step one. If you're like me and assemble any part of the hull even a couple thou off, you're going to have a lot of slow, tedious hand-refitting ahead of you. The inside of the hull of my tank is a horror show.  I decided to try a shading technique I've seen floating around that's sort of inverse from what I'd think to do normally. I think if I had to do it again, I'd redo my white highlights after the color modulation step and throw in some grimier pre-shading. The general shading and color turned out nicely, but I'm pretty down on the paint job as a whole. There's a whole bunch of spots you can see where I obviously have no idea what to do for weathering. It looks pretty alright compared to the family photos, though.  
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Sep 29, 2020 17:01
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Gewehr 43 posted:Thanks! I'm pretty stoked with how it's coming along. I won't recommend the motor I'm using because under load, it builds up too much heat. So, I can't run it more than a couple minutes at a time without risking damage to the polystyrene surrounding it. Basically, it's trying to turn the prop at an RPM that it can't sustain under the load of the heavy propeller, so it's drawing too much current and building up heat. If/when I do this again, I'll try to find something that's higher torque, lower RPM so that I can avoid this problem. But, finding such a thing in the micro, brushless format, is proving difficult.
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Sep 29, 2020 17:49
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Arquinsiel posted:That sounds like you could do something to limit the power to it somehow. I'm no good at electronics but my gut says that someone, somewhere, has had this problem and solved it on the internet. Sure, much googling has been done. I really think there's just a better suited motor out there, but it's so niche I'm struggling to find it. Airfix makes/made one for their 1/24 Spitfire kit, but it's impossible to find. So, I know something exists out there for this application. It's just that drone motors and cell phone vibrator motors are all one finds when googling. Anyway, I'm equally no good at electronics - though this has taught me a lot - but with the day I took that video above was the first time I'd tried to run all the electronics together including the full kit propeller. Previously, I'd only run the motor unloaded + all the lights. The latter setup ran fine on a 3v power supply, but when I put the motor under load at 3v, the lights dimmed to the point of being useless. So, I had to wire in a third battery in series to give me 4.5v, or the max rated voltage for the motor. In doing that, everything's running like a champ, but I'm 99.9% sure that doing so will exacerbate the heat generation issue on the motor. Everything's all glued together now, so I'll just have to take it on faith that if I run it for a minute or so for pics or demonstrations, it won't melt the plastic engine.
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Sep 29, 2020 18:16
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Is miniature paint (Vallejo, GW, etc) appropriate for small models? I'm thinking of the smaller Bandai Star Wars models and whatnot. For that matter, what's best for standard-size models? You know, like a 1:48 jet or something. I only have experience with gaming minis.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:21
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Lincoln posted:Is miniature paint (Vallejo, GW, etc) appropriate for small models? I'm thinking of the smaller Bandai Star Wars models and whatnot. For that matter, what's best for standard-size models? You know, like a 1:48 jet or something. I only have experience with gaming minis. If you have a brand you’re already familiar with then I’d stick with that. Vallejo has lines called Model Color and Model Air which are intended for scale models, as well as Mecha Color which is somewhat more durable and was designed with an eye towards poseable Gundam kits. I use Tamiya through an airbrush.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:34
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Lincoln posted:Is miniature paint (Vallejo, GW, etc) appropriate for small models? I'm thinking of the smaller Bandai Star Wars models and whatnot. For that matter, what's best for standard-size models? You know, like a 1:48 jet or something. I only have experience with gaming minis. Should be fine, your only issue would be the colors that are available.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:48
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grassy gnoll posted:I finally finished picking at the AFV Club M5A1, early production style. It's a mixed bag. Sorry to hear about your build woes but you pulled off a fantastic final result.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:56
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Gewehr 43 posted:Sure, much googling has been done. I really think there's just a better suited motor out there, but it's so niche I'm struggling to find it. Airfix makes/made one for their 1/24 Spitfire kit, but it's impossible to find. So, I know something exists out there for this application. It's just that drone motors and cell phone vibrator motors are all one finds when googling.
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Sep 29, 2020 19:57
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Gewehr 43 posted:I was gifted the kit a year or so ago and I'm 100% sure I'll never build it. I'm having a crappy day, so it would make me feel better to do some good in this world. If you want the kit and you're in the US, email me at cdouglasn (at) gmail.com and I'll send it to you gratis. Thanks man, I really appreciate it. I will definitely make sure that I post pictures of it as it comes together.
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Sep 30, 2020 03:37
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I lost a piece. It was tiny, black and ovular. I was holding it betwixt my tweezers, and now it is gone into the nether. I do not know if it will turn up again. But I do know right now, my car is asymmetrical, and there is no god.
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Oct 1, 2020 00:18
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Immolat1on posted:I lost a piece. I lost a gunpla part that was the exact same color as my carpet and gave up on ever finding it. Months later, after having vacuumed on multiple occasions, I stepped on it. Directly in my walking path. I have no idea how I missed it for months. Is it something you could use the mirroring part to scratch build?
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Oct 1, 2020 00:37
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Gewehr 43 posted:Sure, much googling has been done. I really think there's just a better suited motor out there, but it's so niche I'm struggling to find it. Airfix makes/made one for their 1/24 Spitfire kit, but it's impossible to find. So, I know something exists out there for this application. It's just that drone motors and cell phone vibrator motors are all one finds when googling. I'm not sure if it would physically fit, but I believe the rumble motors out of game console (PS/XBOX) controllers are lower speed and higher torque. I don't have much experience with DC motors, but it might be worth hooking your current motor up on a separate circuit powered by a 9V battery. As you raise the voltage, the current will drop, so in theory the wattage (heat) will remain the same, but I'm wondering if the internal resistance (heat) might go down if it has enough voltage to get it running at full speed under load. Just a guess. If you run the LEDs on their own circuit separate from the motor, you can use this LED wizard to calculate your power supply and resistance values. It is dead simple to use. http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 01:12
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I once had an entire suspension upright from a car go flying off my deck in a light breeze while I was preparing to spray primer. I found it in a pot plant and I think the main reason I found it was because it was teal green at the time. I might finally be able to finish a project I started last christmas as I now have both the correct colour paint and a set of decals to go with it. The second set of decals I was going to use when the paint originally sold out are still sitting in Spain where they've been sitting since july. Only real downside of the decal set is it doesn't come with placement instructions so I'm gonna have to figure it out myself. Thankfully I found some progress pics on instagram that should help me out.
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Oct 1, 2020 01:12
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