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Are there general guidelines on the type of vent cover to use? E.g. fixed vs movable louvers for bathroom fan exhaust or dryer? I'm replacing some and bought the same movable louvered pieces for dryer and bathroom, and noticed the previous bathroom used a fixed style. Wondering if I ought to be concerned.
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Oct 31, 2020 14:23
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Today I went to replace one of the bulbs in the kitchen track lighting. I was having trouble remembering how it goes back on the track, so I removed the head next to it to see how it worked. Having figured it out, I replaced both heads and flipped the switch, but neither turned on. Removing the second head and re-installing it had apparently made it stop working. As an experiment, I removed another head, then put it back, and it too stopped working. I now have only 2 out of 5 heads working, so I'm stopping before I throw the kitchen into darkness entirely. I used my voltage detector pen and I see that the track appears to have power, and it also lights up in the exact same pattern around heads that are working and that are not. I used my multimeter and verified continuity between the track contacts and the bulb socket. I feel reasonably confident that I am re-installing these heads properly, but here I am with half the lights out. Any ideas? Edit: gently caress a duck, googling had turned up sites telling me to bend the contacts *up* a little, but it seems I have to bend them *down*. poo poo's working now. gently caress. Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 22:07
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One of my kitchen cabinet hinges exploded, for want of a better word. So I need to replace it. Home Despot doesn't have this variety of hinge, so I need to order it, but I don't know the name of it. You can see that there's a semicircular recess cut into the cabinet frame, a metal sleeve is secured in that recess by screws through the ears, and the the hinge in turn gets secured to that sleeve with another screw.   What is this style called?
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Oct 31, 2020 23:02
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Phanatic posted:One of my kitchen cabinet hinges exploded, for want of a better word. So I need to replace it. Home Despot doesn't have this variety of hinge, so I need to order it, but I don't know the name of it. You can see that there's a semicircular recess cut into the cabinet frame, a metal sleeve is secured in that recess by screws through the ears, and the the hinge in turn gets secured to that sleeve with another screw. You can search for concealed or euro-style hinges. How easy it will be to get the exact fit I'm not sure.
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Oct 31, 2020 23:27
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Phanatic posted:One of my kitchen cabinet hinges exploded, for want of a better word. So I need to replace it. Home Despot doesn't have this variety of hinge, so I need to order it, but I don't know the name of it. You can see that there's a semicircular recess cut into the cabinet frame, a metal sleeve is secured in that recess by screws through the ears, and the the hinge in turn gets secured to that sleeve with another screw. Taking the whole thing to Lowes and looking through their hardware section is the best bet. Or ship yourself 10 and return the rest.
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Nov 1, 2020 00:11
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Jenkl posted:Are there general guidelines on the type of vent cover to use? E.g. fixed vs movable louvers for bathroom fan exhaust or dryer? Registers are used for supply vents. Grilles are used for return vents.
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Nov 1, 2020 04:42
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Not exactly sure where to ask this, but I'm looking into asking my family to help chip in for a wood burning stone for my parents this year for Christmas. My dad was recently diagnosed with a terminal cancer, and a wood burning stove has been one thing they have wanted in their house since they retired a few years back, but just haven't been able to afford it. So it's a nice comfort item I'd love to be able to surprise them with. What would be a good option to go with that isn't too costly? I'm thinking $1k at the most. They live in New Mexico close to Albuquerque, so it can get pretty cold, but their walls are pretty thick, so it actually stays fairly comfy with the electric heat they have. Their house is approx 1200 sq/ft. My dad also wants it to have a fairly large window on the front as well as a blower. This is the one they had been looking at, but it's a bit above the budget I'm setting. https://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_1500_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo1501.htm it shriveled up fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Nov 1, 2020 |
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Nov 1, 2020 07:21
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Keep in mind that you'll need to budget for (proper) installation as well.
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Nov 1, 2020 17:49
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Half of my door trim fell off one of my doors. I attempted to use a regular nail to re-attach it and it split the trim  I assume you need one of those nail guns but the "nail" that is in was used seems almost as thin as staples and the two from this link is too thick: https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/brad-nails-vs-finish-nails/9ba683603be9fa5395fab9080804568 Any ideas?
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Nov 1, 2020 18:11
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There's a lot of different kinds of nailguns, but you don't have to use a nailgun. You can drive finishing nails (which are what was used here) by hand, ideally with a tack hammer but a regular claw hammer used carefully can do it too. You'll also want a nail set to push the head of the nail below the surface of the trim, so you can then paint over it. Finishing nails can bend easily and are a little finicky to drive straight; I recommend practicing on some scrap wood before you approach your trim piece again. If you have a very narrow drillbit (narrower than the width of the nail), you can also drive a pilot hole in the trim.
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Nov 1, 2020 18:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Finishing nails can bend easily and are a little finicky to drive straight; I recommend practicing on some scrap wood before you approach your trim piece again. If you have a very narrow drillbit (narrower than the width of the nail), you can also drive a pilot hole in the trim. And the added benefit of when you snap the tiny little bit clean off that's one fewer nail you have to drive. gently caress finishing nails forever, especially the double cheese grade ones ikea gives you to attach their cardboard backings to their nightstands.
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Nov 1, 2020 19:03
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wesleywillis posted:Keep in mind that you'll need to budget for (proper) installation as well. Yeah, they've got friends that can help with that part of it, and they've already got the connection in the ceiling for one.
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Nov 1, 2020 19:07
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I don't remember if it was my father or grandfather who taught me to tap the point of finishing nails lightly with a hammer to blunt them to prevent the wood splitting, but it helps to a noticeable degree.
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Nov 1, 2020 19:46
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I have a buddy who tore some paint/drywall paper off their rental wall using command strips. It doesn't look like the core has been damaged. How do you repair something like this? A couple layers of spackle smoothed over it? Drywall patch kits with the screen are unnecessary since they didn't put an actual hole in the wall right?
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Nov 2, 2020 20:40
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have a buddy who tore some paint/drywall paper off their rental wall using command strips. It doesn't look like the core has been damaged. How do you repair something like this? A couple layers of spackle smoothed over it? Drywall patch kits with the screen are unnecessary since they didn't put an actual hole in the wall right? Yes and yes. To get it anywhere close to correct you'll need a drywall knife that is at least a bit more than half the widest dimension. Better yet for someone not familir with this to get one wider than the patch. That way you can use the contour of the wall to fill the "hole" left by the missing paper. If you do this well you be able to "finish sand" with a wet sponge.
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Nov 2, 2020 20:51
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have a buddy who tore some paint/drywall paper off their rental wall using command strips. It doesn't look like the core has been damaged. How do you repair something like this? A couple layers of spackle smoothed over it? Drywall patch kits with the screen are unnecessary since they didn't put an actual hole in the wall right? I would spackle that and not look back. Small tub of color change spackle (like a cup of it), some fine grit sandpaper, and a drywall knife. Spread some on there, feather it out, and sand a little once dry if you feel frisky. Ask your super for some paint. While you get the hang of it don't be afraid to scrape it off. The go patch bigger holes as well since you own the stuff. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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Nov 2, 2020 21:29
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Regarding the existing flap, cut it off as smooth as you can. If there are any flakes around the edge, cut them off as well. Then proceed with the spackling. The idea with spackling is to smear that poo poo on, wait for it to dry, then sand off the high spots. Repeat spreading and sanding as necessary. The number of coats depends on how deep the hole is and if you mess up the sanding.
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Nov 2, 2020 23:25
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My house has a dining room built-in with a couple drawer holes and no drawers. Anyone have tips or a guide for cobbling together a couple replacements?
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Nov 3, 2020 13:59
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Old box drawers...I doubt you'll find something that will fit properly. How are your finish carpentry skills? The quick/cheap alternative is to put blank faces over them.
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Nov 3, 2020 15:08
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Toebone posted:My house has a dining room built-in with a couple drawer holes and no drawers. Anyone have tips or a guide for cobbling together a couple replacements? A simple box drawer with a false front isn't too hard to make. You can cut the pieces out of plywood and glue+screw them together, then glue the false front on (make this part out of hardwood for preference). Make sure your drawer is smaller than the hole it needs to fit into, especially vertically. Though you may want to make the back of the drawer taller than the hole to make it harder to accidentally pull the entire drawer out. Disclaimer: I've made, like, six box drawers ever.
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Nov 3, 2020 15:45
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PainterofCrap posted:Old box drawers...I doubt you'll find something that will fit properly. How are your finish carpentry skills? False fronts (blank faces) are the right choice here. The unit really isn't in good enough shape to justify building new drawer boxes or hiring someone to build them for you. Bonus, you can buy drawer fronts to install as false fronts from any cabinetry shop. Just tell them you need two false slab fronts primed for on site paint. Give them the sizes - match the width of the doors below, and for height try to replicate the amount of cabinet face (the reveal) showing around the doors below. They may ask you what edge profile you want, and they can show you some examples so you can pick what will look consistent with the rest of the cabinet.
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Nov 3, 2020 16:24
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Toebone posted:My house has a dining room built-in with a couple drawer holes and no drawers. Anyone have tips or a guide for cobbling together a couple replacements? for example: https://cabinetdoorsnmore.com/products/drawer-box There are dozens of places across the country, that thanks to the internet, will do all the heavy lifting and send you what you need. Our local cabinet builders only build boxes and do custom finishes now--all the drawers and fronts can be had online for great prices and great quality**. There are a mind numbing number of options--slide types, wood types, styles. Do a lot of measuring and reading reviews, don't be afraid to call and make sure you get good feels. Heck you can buy drawer fronts now and drawers later if you want.
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Nov 3, 2020 18:57
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General question about DIY lifts and pulleys. I want to rig up some random projects to lift small loads (< 100 lbs) using mechanical advantage, not electricity. Maybe someday I will build my own linear actuators but for now I want to go even lower tech. My question is what to do for safety in the event that a line breaks or I let just let go like a dumbass. I don’t want a locking mechanism, but instead an trying to think up simple, mechanical options for countering or reducing the force of gravity such that if I released a pulley line, the load would slowly settle down vs. free falling. Are there any technical terms I should search for? I was thinking maybe a shock absorber but that doesn’t seem right. Maybe I just don’t understand physics!
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Nov 3, 2020 19:59
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There are shock absorbers for fall protection harnesses. IIRC they work by being stitched together with thread that breaks at a certain point and slows you down as you fall 5 more feet or something. I'm not sure what the best keyword would be, and I think they would be too heavy duty for your application. Once you get something off the ground, attaching a safety cable from the object to a beam or w/e that is short enough to keep it from hitting the ground would work?
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Nov 3, 2020 20:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There are shock absorbers for fall protection harnesses. IIRC they work by being stitched together with thread that breaks at a certain point and slows you down as you fall 5 more feet or something. I'm not sure what the best keyword would be, and I think they would be too heavy duty for your application. In the rock / ice climbing world we call them screamers. Edit: Yeah googling climbing screamer turns up a few. Double edit: Actually reading the OP helps. Screamers are not intended for slowing the descent of an untethered object. They're designed to lower the peak force applied to the anchor in the event of a fall. There are a variety of ascenders and descenders which are designed to allow one-directional rope movement that you may be able to rig something up with, but what is applicable and how to use it would depend entirely on your specific rigging scenario. armorer fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 20:08
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For climbing applications, self-retracting lifelines are pretty common. For lifting loads it's likely you'd use some form of a friction brake on the rope instead to arrest progress in the event you let go rather than lower it back down. The solution to "in the event a line breaks" in the rigging world is generally to inspect your ropes before each use, replace damaged ropes, don't ever exceed the WLL, do your load calcs, and don't stand under the load so you never have a line break to begin with, and if it somehow still does it's only property damage. corgski fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 20:15
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That could work if it comes down to it. The idea is inspired by sailing, that I could apply sailboat rigging to DIY projects. There’s a concept of “blowing the main” in sailing, but that deals with lateral forces, not gravity. I’m really all about the soft descent so I can be extra lazy. Maybe I could do the math and rig up a counter weight to standing end of the line? Or hook it up to some kind of spring? I worry if I can’t find a similar project that I’m misunderstanding or overlooking something fundamental. I’ll look into fall protection shock absorbers. E: didn’t see new replies
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Nov 3, 2020 20:18
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corgski posted:friction brake This sounds promising!
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Nov 3, 2020 20:20
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Keep in mind that brakes like I'm referring to are designed to stop runaways, not lower loads in a controlled manner - usually spring loaded cams or pins that will bind the mechanism when it exceeds a certain speed and stop the fall at the expense of a shitton of wear on the rope and mechanism.
corgski fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Nov 3, 2020 |
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Nov 3, 2020 20:27
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Centrist Committee posted:That could work if it comes down to it. The idea is inspired by sailing, that I could apply sailboat rigging to DIY projects. There’s a concept of “blowing the main” in sailing, but that deals with lateral forces, not gravity. I’m really all about the soft descent so I can be extra lazy. Maybe I could do the math and rig up a counter weight to standing end of the line? Or hook it up to some kind of spring? I worry if I can’t find a similar project that I’m misunderstanding or overlooking something fundamental. I’ll look into fall protection shock absorbers. The issue with using a counter weight on the standing end is that if there is slack in your line then your load will fall some distance before the counter weight is relevant and the line goes taut. As the line goes taut, the peak forces in the system will be many times what the load represents by itself, and can trivially exceed the working load limit. Ascenders and descenders are types of friciton brakes used for ascending or descending a rope, respectively. There are many different types of devices that serve similar purposes in the rigging and climbing worlds, and which one you may be able to use, and how exactly you would add it into your system will depend entirely on the specifics of what exactly you're trying to do. Depending on your budget, you may be able to accomplish what you want by adding a self retracting lifeline into the system as a second tether connected to the load, such that if you released the load by accident the lifeline would (somewhat safely) lower it, but the lifeline would not be used as the lifting rope in that setup. They tend to be pretty expensive though.
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Nov 3, 2020 20:27
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Word, all good advice. If nothing else I have some new terms and concepts to study up on. Even if they don’t fit my exact needs hopefully they’ll point me in the right direction. Thanks for the tips.
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Nov 3, 2020 20:30
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Centrist Committee posted:General question about DIY lifts and pulleys. I want to rig up some random projects to lift small loads (< 100 lbs) using mechanical advantage, not electricity. Maybe someday I will build my own linear actuators but for now I want to go even lower tech. My question is what to do for safety in the event that a line breaks or I let just let go like a dumbass. I don’t want a locking mechanism, but instead an trying to think up simple, mechanical options for countering or reducing the force of gravity such that if I released a pulley line, the load would slowly settle down vs. free falling. Are there any technical terms I should search for? I was thinking maybe a shock absorber but that doesn’t seem right. Maybe I just don’t understand physics! This seems perfect!
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Nov 3, 2020 20:32
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Asked my dad to get me a Dewalt 11 amp angle grinder for my birthday. He got me the 9 amp model instead, because it was all they had at his Lowe's. My gut reaction was to return it and buy the one I asked for, but it occurs to me that I'm probably overthinking this. How big of a difference is there between an 11 amp angle grinder and a 9 amp model? Will I ever even notice? Intended use right now is just to remove some high spots on a rough concrete patch to level a concrete basement floor for tile, and then cut some tile.
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Nov 3, 2020 23:00
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You won't notice a difference, my "7" amp Skil grinder has been under heavy use for years, and my bigger Metabo is only marginally different besides the nicer switchgear.
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Nov 3, 2020 23:47
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I just picked up this guy at an estate sale for super cheap. I'm going to build new drawers for it but I'm trying to figure out the best way to strip the rust. I've used evapo-rust on old tools before but that's just letting them soak in a bucket of it. I know they have a gel version but the reviews on it seem iffy. Any suggestions? 
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Nov 4, 2020 02:55
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Looks ready for primer to me.  In my limited experience, cleaning off contaminants like salt and grease is more important than surface rust.
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Nov 4, 2020 03:42
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Wasabi the J posted:Looks ready for primer to me. If you knock all the flaky rust off with a manual wire brush, then wipe and/or blow the residue off to leave a clean surface with some tightly adherent rust, then a primer listed for use over rusty metal would be appropriate.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:20
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The Spookmaster posted:I just picked up this guy at an estate sale for super cheap. I'm going to build new drawers for it but I'm trying to figure out the best way to strip the rust. I've used evapo-rust on old tools before but that's just letting them soak in a bucket of it. I know they have a gel version but the reviews on it seem iffy. Any suggestions? Maybe it is just the photo, but the greenish/white stuff makes me think it is galvanized or some kind of copper/brass/bronze situation? You might ask in the metalworking thread they know all kinds of weird stuff.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:22
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Apologies if this isn't an appropriate thread. We're moving to California soon and need to figure out what company we're going to use for our stuff. There's always U-Haul, but we'd be willing to pay a bit more to avoid driving a big lovely box truck. Both U-Pack and Trinity Moving seem ok, but of course having used neither I don't really know. Any suggestions are welcomed.
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Nov 4, 2020 04:55
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We used North American Van Lines and have no real complaints. I think we claimed three things were damaged: an unframed canvas painting, a headboard from a crib, and some fabric on one of our couches. We had the insurance on it though and they either repaired (headboard) or paid out (couch, painting) without fuss. This was like 60% of the 40' trailer, it was a lot of stuff, so I'm not surprised there were damages, poo poo's gonna happen on a thousand mile drive. Full disclosure: our move was an insured flat rate since it was paid for by work. But man it was nice to not have to pack all our poo poo, we just hung out with the family while the house slowly disappeared into boxes, and then the reverse at the other end.
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Nov 4, 2020 05:04
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