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DaveSauce posted:Yeah pro-tip: If you find a storage tote you like, stock up. We had a 19 gallon we liked, but only bought as needed. Then when we needed more, we found out it's not made anymore. So now we have mismatched totes. Ah yes, this x100. We literally bought enough to fill every section of our whole garage with them plus like 10%. When they're on sale just buy 50 once and be done with it forever.
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Nov 18, 2020 19:22
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So the master bathroom has one of those pebble-and-grout floors in the shower. Looks nice, but the grout has become pretty dingy in parts... I tried to stay on top of scrubbing it, but clearly didn't do a good enough job, and I didn't know until recently that you're supposed to re-apply a sealant from time to time to help keep it nice. Recommendations for brightening it up? I've tried scrubbing with a vinegar+water mixture, and I tried bleach today, but neither seemed to do too much--although maybe I didn't let either sit long enough before I scrubbed.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:05
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I've had good luck with the scrubbing bubbles foaming bleach spray in getting grout clean. It's a reactive measure, for sure, but it works well enough as long as things aren't too far gone. For some reason it worked where a standard bleach/water solution didn't.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:09
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Make sure you hose off the whole floor thoroughly before moving to a "new" chemical. Don't want to accidentally kill yourself.  Easy to do, just take a shower or whatever, but you really don't want even a little bit of chlorine gas.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:12
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DaveSauce posted:Yeah pro-tip: If you find a storage tote you like, stock up. We had a 19 gallon we liked, but only bought as needed. Then when we needed more, we found out it's not made anymore. So now we have mismatched totes. Yes absolutely this. Sterlite made a fantastic tote with hinged lids that they discontinued and so now I have a bunch of shittier totes with loose lids that also don't stack together. 
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Nov 18, 2020 20:17
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DaveSauce posted:I've had good luck with the scrubbing bubbles foaming bleach spray in getting grout clean. It's a reactive measure, for sure, but it works well enough as long as things aren't too far gone. For some reason it worked where a standard bleach/water solution didn't. Thanks, I'll give that a shot. I actually have a bottle of it, but the sprayer is busted and I'm sure half the "magic" comes from the way the nozzle sprays it. I need to make a Lowes run anyway. H110Hawk posted:Make sure you hose off the whole floor thoroughly before moving to a "new" chemical. Don't want to accidentally kill yourself. Definitely. I'm very paranoid about that sort of poo poo.
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Nov 18, 2020 20:22
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I need to replace some exterior 1x4 trim/fascia. Any thoughts on KDAT pine vs Western red cedar? Is one better for paintholding/durability? Price is fairly comparable on both. When/if I redo it all I may go with a composite/PVC, but for the patching I am doing now, I'd like to stick with wood so I can match the existing profile details.
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Nov 19, 2020 00:50
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Motronic posted:While we're doing building 101 class, please make sure you aren't putting anything other than corrosion resistant fasteners into this PT lubmer. Hot dipped zinc, galvanized, stainless....... You know, this was gnawing at me a bit. So the nails used are definitely hot galvanized. But the screws I used for some of the studs->plate connection are "yellow zinc plated." I'm reading that's not quite the same as a hot dipped zinc and wanted to run it by y'all. Specifically it's these: https://www.homehardware.ca/en/300-pack-8-x-3-yellow-zinc-plated-all-purpose-screws/p/2182441 I'm thinking I might have some screws to change out? Any thoughts Motronic and co.? The only thing I see on the local home depot site that says it's for treated wood would be something like this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin--9-x-2-1-2-inch-star-drive-grk-r4-tm-multi-purpose-framing-screws/1000739588. That one concerns me since it just says yellow zinc. That and decking screws all say ok for PT. Also, side question: for vapour barriers, where wires penetrate, is tape gonna do it or should I embed in acoustical? Thanks!!!
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Nov 19, 2020 03:08
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Yellow zinc is an electroplated fastener, not a hot dip and is not appropriate for outdoor use and I sure as hell wouldn't use them even indoors into pressure treated either. If the wall is still open replace and/or augment with something more appropriate. If it's not......don't kick the bottom of the wall and maybe it will stay attached with the drywall tape and mud.
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Nov 19, 2020 03:44
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Motronic posted:Yellow zinc is an electroplated fastener, not a hot dip and is not appropriate for outdoor use and I sure as hell wouldn't use them even indoors into pressure treated either. Sucks but rather fix it now than deal with it later. Thanks. The walls are still open I've got a couple weeks before this would be unfixable.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:13
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Jenkl posted:Sucks but rather fix it now than deal with it later. Thanks. The walls are still open I've got a couple weeks before this would be unfixable. Oh perfect. Just go grab you some good stainless in the same size and make it happen. Future you will never even remember to thank now you, but future you would have been really pissed otherwise.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:17
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I like that they put "outlasts hot dipped galvanized finish nails and screws" then "indoor use only" Assholes. Something like this is what I'd use for the connection, or better yet galvanized steel angle brackets and structural nails.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:32
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If you want to geek out on fastener spec, don’t use the home center sites use the manufacturers. For example Grabber: http://grabberman.com/Media/TechnicalData/555.pdf The next-to-last page of that PDF has an explanation of what’s recommended depending on this-to-that and environmentals.
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Nov 19, 2020 04:34
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These are partition walls so I'm not so concerned as to use angle bracket. This shouldn't take me too long actually, and I had to go to HD to return something anyways  .Edit: and thanks hed am currently geeking out Jenkl fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Nov 19, 2020 |
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Nov 19, 2020 04:38
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I’ll show my hand on being an idiot, when you’re doing framing when do you go screws over nails? I have rules in my head based off of random googling but never took the time to understand that outside of contractors yelling at each other over forums.
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Nov 19, 2020 11:23
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When you have the time or the need? Framing with nails is fastest. I would occasionally throw a screw into a really tight spot if I couldn't get a framing nailer in there. A screw is really a nail with extreme shanking. It will never slip. So I use them when I want a nice tight grip (as anyone would): shelving, and things under stresses that might release a nail)
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Nov 19, 2020 14:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I need to replace some exterior 1x4 trim/fascia. Any thoughts on KDAT pine vs Western red cedar? Is one better for paintholding/durability? Price is fairly comparable on both. When/if I redo it all I may go with a composite/PVC, but for the patching I am doing now, I'd like to stick with wood so I can match the existing profile details. Cedar is supposed to be pretty rot resistant naturally, but I have no idea how it would stack up against kdat lumber. I’d assume the treated stuff might last longer, but both seem entirely adequate for trim since it’s relying on relying on paint for protection anyways. All the trim I’ve replaced has been with PVC. You can get 1x4 matching boards and trim the profile to match
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Nov 19, 2020 15:28
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All the fascia we've been doing (lately) has been hardie/fiber cement. I can't remember why, something about PVC being more sensitive to temperature changes or something. But we have a mix for sure. Didn't know any better on the first couple pieces and had a handy man just replace with wood. PO had used PVC in one spot, which we found out after having a big section replaced with hardie. I'm pretty sure hardie has a wood grain fascia, so it won't look out of place. Of course the last piece we had replaced was using the flat hardie, so yeah... but it only looks bad if you look for it, it's not very noticeable.
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Nov 19, 2020 17:17
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I've got a bolt that needs replacing, what's the best way to buy a single bolt? It'd be nice to avoid buying a whole bag of them off McMaster. Its 3/16" diameter and ~33 threads per inch for what it's worth. Probably a dumb question.
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Nov 21, 2020 12:51
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eggyolk posted:I've got a bolt that needs replacing, what's the best way to buy a single bolt? It'd be nice to avoid buying a whole bag of them off McMaster. Its 3/16" diameter and ~33 threads per inch for what it's worth. Probably a dumb question. Take it to your local big box store and find one that's the same thread? You can order single bolts online but you'll end up paying a bunch for shipping
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Nov 21, 2020 14:19
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armorer posted:Take it to your local big box store and find one that's the same thread? You can order single bolts online but you'll end up paying a bunch for shipping Yeah, or do what apparently lots of people in my area think is acceptable and just steal the one bolt you want, leaving a baggy with a hole in it and 3 pieces instead of 4.
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Nov 21, 2020 16:21
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Don't know where else to ask this..... My family has an RV trailer, its parked at a campground. Tree fell on the fucker. It came from the "front" side (the side with the doors etc), along the back there are electrical lines and most likely the tree is in contact with them. These aren't huge high voltage lines, they probably only carry like 120 volts or whatever (I know I know, its still enough to kill me). The park is closed for the season, but as is my understanding, there is probably still power in these lines. I should not be loving with this tree until power is shut off correct? I'm planning on heading up tomorrow with my brother to hopefully do some sort of "something" about this. Park owner will be there, hopefully he can get the power shut off.
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Nov 21, 2020 20:24
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Yes make sure there is no power to the tree before touching anything.
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Nov 21, 2020 20:30
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wesleywillis posted:Don't know where else to ask this..... Utility lines will kill you and not notice, voltage be damned. 120v will leave a corpse worthy of an open casket if you are thrown or its just a heart stopper. If you're cooked your going to be scraped into a bag. Now how close to reality this is based on the exact circumstances of the tree fall is anyone's guess but the penalty for error is just a detail in your funeral. If the tree is touching the lines or has damaged them call the utility and tell them that. You will have a very fast response. If these are fused by the park and the owner can clearly lock out the power (put an actual lock on it) and verify its off (with a meter) then you can start loving with the tree. Make the owner go first.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:03
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Ask the property manager whether the lines belong to the park or their utility. If they are utility lines, have the manager call the power company and they'll come out and clear the tree from their lines and you can work safely on the RV from there.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:05
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Word, thanks homies. The lines are well inside the park, and feed each site off a separate meter (Each site has its own meter is what I mean and we are billed electricity by the park) so likely they belong to the park. My brother is talking to the owner, or will be talking to him and we will see what happens from there. Park owner is recovering from knee replacement, so likely he won't be demonstrating that the power is off by swinging the first axe....... I'll bring a lock however, to try and lock out whatever sort of switch disconnects this line. Or lock the box that the fuse is taken out of etc.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:46
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wesleywillis posted:Word, thanks homies. The lines are well inside the park, and feed each site off a separate meter (Each site has its own meter is what I mean and we are billed electricity by the park) so likely they belong to the park. My brother is talking to the owner, or will be talking to him and we will see what happens from there. Ah nice. Should be easy then. Follow the lines and kill the feeder. If they aren't unfused utility lines you should be able to easily find a kill switch for them. Make sure no one is running a generator. Post a picture of the carnage.
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Nov 21, 2020 21:53
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My brother already sent me some pics that he got from the park owner. It doesn't look *that* bad, likely the wires saved the trailer from major damage. Second time something like that has happened to me. The park is closed for the winter, so there shouldn't be anyone there (running a genny) besides the owner and his wife, who normally would have been in florida for about a month by now but, the plague and his knee surgery and all. I shall assume for the time being that the owner knows where the shut off for the line is. Fake edit: For some reason the pics won't upload to imgur. Keep getting an error message.   
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Nov 21, 2020 23:11
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Tell me about using indoor extension cords outdoors for christmas lights. Is that safe?  I have 2 net lights for the bush, and one strand of bulbs circling the tree. I just need the orange extension cord to be about 15 ft. Can I use an indoor extension cord instead of an outdoor one for that purpose? It'd connect to be a GFCI outlet. More specifically, it seems like outdoor plugs have a ground, but the Christmas lights do not have a ground plug. How does that factor in? Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Nov 22, 2020 |
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Nov 22, 2020 20:59
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Use outdoor cords outside.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, or do what apparently lots of people in my area think is acceptable and just steal the one bolt you want, leaving a baggy with a hole in it and 3 pieces instead of 4. When I've needed a single bolt I've just gone to the hardware store and bought a single bolt. Never thought that might not be an option somewhere.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:36
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Bioshuffle posted:Tell me about using indoor extension cords outdoors for christmas lights. Is that safe? wesleywillis posted:Use outdoor cords outside. They're made to be more weather, UV, and "knick" resistant. While it 99% doesn't matter as the GFCI solves most issues, it will probably degrade much faster if it's not outdoor rated. Check amazonbasics for cheap options.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:52
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What is the difference between these gas log sets? https://www.menards.com/main/storeitem.html?iid=1444431365760 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pleasant-Hearth-18-in-45000-BTU-Dual-Burner-Vented-Gas-Fireplace-Logs/1000282171 one is VL-NO18D and one is VL-CA18D. both seemingly claim to have a similar accessory kit? I don't get why one is MSRP $100 more.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:55
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H110Hawk posted:They're made to be more weather, UV, and "knick" resistant. While it 99% doesn't matter as the GFCI solves most issues, it will probably degrade much faster if it's not outdoor rated. Check amazonbasics for cheap options. They seem to seal the pins better too and they're less ugly, if I was buying new I'd get outdoor, if I had a couple oranges lying around though I'd probably just send it. E: ungrounded on a grounded cord it's fine, it's the reverse that is not fine.
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Nov 23, 2020 01:58
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 I'm putting sheetrock ceiling in this shower. For the flat top piece, which way should the factory edge face? Toward the angled piece? Or outward toward the rest of the room? Or does it matter?
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Nov 23, 2020 02:06
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wesleywillis posted:Use outdoor cords outside. My only point of confusion was that outdoor extension cords have a third hole for the grounding prong which does not get covered, as the christmas lights only have 2 prongs. Is it safe to just plug it in and leave an empty hole in the extension cord ?
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Nov 23, 2020 02:20
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Bioshuffle posted:My only point of confusion was that outdoor extension cords have a third hole for the grounding prong which does not get covered, as the christmas lights only have 2 prongs. Is it safe to just plug it in and leave an empty hole in the extension cord ? Yes, it is safe to use ungrounded appliances in grounded sockets or extension cords, the hole being there is not really dangerous. (At least it is safe assuming an appliance hasn’t been tampered with to replace a grounded plug with an ungrounded one, as then you could be shocked by an open ground. Basically the rule is - if a device has a ground pin then it needs it, use a grounded cord/socket. If it doesn't then it's fine.)
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Nov 23, 2020 02:23
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Bioshuffle posted:My only point of confusion was that outdoor extension cords have a third hole for the grounding prong which does not get covered, as the christmas lights only have 2 prongs. Is it safe to just plug it in and leave an empty hole in the extension cord ? Yes, the ground carries no potential (hopefully), the contacts should be coated to resist corrosion (hopefully) it's all good and safe. You can find 2 prong jobies if you look hard enough. Christoph posted:
I hope by "sheetrock" you mean concrete board, or green board with a vapor barrier.
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Nov 23, 2020 02:24
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Elviscat posted:I hope by "sheetrock" you mean concrete board, or green board with a vapor barrier. It is a handsome green, as you can see. Any clue about my question?
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Nov 23, 2020 02:34
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Christoph posted:It is a handsome green, as you can see. Any clue about my question? Nope, sorry! E: I'm pretty sure you're supposed to use cement board for the shower, then greenboard on the ceiling, but again I'm not an expert. None of this is helpful at all, and I hope someone who knows what they're talking about comes along shortly! Elviscat fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Nov 23, 2020 |
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Nov 23, 2020 02:44
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