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ptier posted:This kinda what I did for my Vor’cha class. But more “does this look right” than science. I like that model, looks good aside from where the tape slipped. I used tape to help with painting a BSG Viper and your results are much better than mine. I'd really love to do some Star Trek models, but those mainly seem to be from Polar Lights and the Discovery model I got from them did not impress me at all. Currently I've just started on a Cyber Hobby Jagdpanzer 4/70 Command Version, which is pretty much a reproduced/modified Dragon model. Having mostly done Tamiya models, a kit that uses 100+ pieces for the wheels alone is a bit intimidating, to the point I almost boxed it back up for another time, but I've always loved the aesthetic of this tank destroyer so I'm going to take on the challenge. I really, really want to make a mini-diorama for one of my models, but I'm not sure I want to make the financial investment for all the various scenery and tools, etc. I'm interested to hear ballparks on what others have sunk into it.
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Nov 28, 2020 21:12
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ptier posted:This kinda what I did for my Vor’cha class. But more “does this look right” than science. X'ing IPA also color matching the warbird is a huge pita because the studio model was basically gray and the green was all from lighting. and then they built a second studio model later on and then ds9 repainted the fuckin' things
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Nov 28, 2020 21:32
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Vorenus posted:I like that model, looks good aside from where the tape slipped. I used tape to help with painting a BSG Viper and your results are much better than mine. I'd really love to do some Star Trek models, but those mainly seem to be from Polar Lights and the Discovery model I got from them did not impress me at all. star trek kits imo are all about lighting and aftermarket parts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YYz3jXcUf0 also did you know the romulan warbird has 6 billion window holes to drill out
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Nov 28, 2020 21:34
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Smoke posted:As a result I'm considering switching to Revell Aqua (acrylics) instead as it's much more easily available and it'll make cleanup a lot easier, as well as giving me much faster drying times. Are you hell bent on staying with Revell? Maybe because you build their kits and it's just easier to find the right color that way? If not, I highly recommend Vallejo. I feel like it's kind the next step up from Revell. But if you're happy with Revell by all means stay with them.
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Nov 28, 2020 22:33
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Furism posted:Are you hell bent on staying with Revell? Maybe because you build their kits and it's just easier to find the right color that way? It's an availability thing. I'm in Bulgaria, and there's only a few specialized shops here that seem to not carry Vallejo according to their sites, and they're a bit out of the way. Revell stuff I can get from a decently sized chain that also delivers and is in pretty much every single mall.
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Nov 28, 2020 22:59
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Radio! posted:Hey nerds of small things, do you have suggestions for a beginner wooden ship model? My father requested a model ship for Christmas, but he doesn't have any specific one in mind. He used to do some models as a kid but hasn't done any in decades, although he is very artistic in general. The model Fearless suggested is good, but based on your post, are you sure he wants a wood model and not a plastic ship model? For a wood model I think it's very important that the subject is one they have a real interest in, as they take a while to build and can have a big learning curve. I would make sure that at least you are in an era that he likes (i.e. age of sail vs. WWII warships). There are a couple fantastic kits for beginners from a pretty new company named "Vanguard Models". The guy who started it is a very well know name in the industry, he has been designing models for big companies for years, but now that he is doing them for his own company he can ignore all the restrictions they put on his designs and design for ease of building and quality. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/ Look at the Fifi and Zulu models. He designed those specifically for new modellers and they have gotten extremely high reviews.
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Nov 29, 2020 00:43
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Midjack posted:Isopropyl alcohol will clean tamiya acrylic right up. Use a q-tip so you don’t go overboard. Thank you! I will play with this tonight! grassy gnoll posted:Seconding the Q-tip and IPA. You can also sharpen a toothpick to a needle point and scrape out anything still stuck in the deepest recesses if you can't completely clear it with the swab and it shouldn't score your plastic. I think you've got just about the perfect shade of seafoam-y green. Yea, it worked out well, had to play with the ratio but its ( 1 drop of X-5 Green : 6 drops to X-2 White ) : 4-7 drops of X-20A Thinner depending on humidity I think. Been a while since I painted the base coat. Vorenus posted:I like that model, looks good aside from where the tape slipped. I used tape to help with painting a BSG Viper and your results are much better than mine. I'd really love to do some Star Trek models, but those mainly seem to be from Polar Lights and the Discovery model I got from them did not impress me at all. The Vor'cha and all the old Next Gen / DS9 stuff are the old AMT/Ertl molds that round2 got when they reformed (someone please check my history). They are generally OK, I didn't need to use much putty on this one at all. However, from my experience, stay AWAY from the Enterprise-B. That fucker I ended up dumping when I realized it would be more putty than plastic by the end. On the taping, I did something I am not sure I will do again, which was when I assembled it, I taped the red-clear pieces, then assembled the nacelles around it, and after painting, using an x-acto, cursing, and time peeled it away. If I do it again, I need to ensure that the sticky side of the tape is nullified in some way or the same hell will occur. Either that or fold the tape so it isn't sticky on the parts that go under the model, that sideways force required to pop it out is not fun. Raskolnikov38 posted:X'ing IPA That is nuts, but also makes sense, the Romulan warbirds color always seemed almost slightly out of phase, or "other worldly" while the Kilngons looked like the best lead ship paint 1950's money could buy. Definitely made an impression that they were alien. That also sucks trying to paint match. Raskolnikov38 posted:star trek kits imo are all about lighting and aftermarket parts I would love to do the external kind of work on the D, or Battle Star Galactica. Might gear up for something like that with some stuff that is smaller in scale, like the Oberth class or Miranda class, something I can screw up and it would be OK.
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Nov 29, 2020 00:54
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The Locator posted:https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/
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Nov 29, 2020 02:07
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Slugworth posted:Huh.. Your build thread had pretty well convinced me wood ships were not for me (I mean that as a compliment - I'm blown away), but the instruction manual for the Fifi seems pretty drat reasonable. There's something oddly disappointing about using mdf for some of it, but it looks like a really well engineered kit at a reasonable price. Thanks for the link. One big issue with a lot of old kits is that the bulkheads, but especially the false keel can warp, which must be corrected prior to assembly of the hull will not be shaped right. MDF is actually perfect for these parts of the model because it doesn't warp by nature. It can warp, but basically only if you get just one side of it wet, but it should never warp in a sealed kit box. You won't find any parts that end up being visible made out of MDF I am fairly certain.
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Nov 29, 2020 04:01
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The Locator posted:One big issue with a lot of old kits is that the bulkheads, but especially the false keel can warp, which must be corrected prior to assembly of the hull will not be shaped right.
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Nov 29, 2020 04:19
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you could always make your own. I assume it’s just a flat 2d shape? Easy enough to cut with hand tools then clean up with a file/rasp.
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Nov 29, 2020 05:20
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We used a shitload of MDF and similar products in building architectural models. It is definitely a useful material, but the dust is brutal.
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Nov 29, 2020 05:32
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Raskolnikov38 posted:star trek kits imo are all about lighting and aftermarket parts From hell's heart, I stab at thee. For hate's sake, I spit my last breath at thee
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Nov 29, 2020 07:31
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I know Hobby Lobby is one of those "everything is always on sale" type of places so this might not be an amazing find, and they have a pretty limited selection of stuff, but they are doing 40 percent off on model kits right now. Mostly Italeri and Revell, but they've got some of the Bandai star wars kits that I know a few people here have posted. I'm grabbing an Italeri V-22 in honor of my new home where they fly over my house every 8 minutes. If the kit is bad, don't tell me, it's cheap and a project I'm not super invested in anyways. Also, they have some of those Meng cartoon tanks, for what it's worth. They're pretty cheap to start with though. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Nov 29, 2020 |
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Nov 29, 2020 14:29
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Raskolnikov38 posted:star trek kits imo are all about lighting and aftermarket parts You mean "minor modifications"? Someone recommend good sanding stick please? I've been exclusively using giant sheets of 800/1200 grit cut down with scissors. I also have a set of the metal filing sticks which are great for big gates but mostly feel like the equivalent of trimming fingernails with a chainsaw. Most of the sets I see include grits as heavy as 120 or 240 which I've always understood to be way too heavy for modeling.
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Nov 29, 2020 15:26
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Vorenus posted:Someone recommend good sanding stick please? I've been exclusively using giant sheets of 800/1200 grit cut down with scissors. I also have a set of the metal filing sticks which are great for big gates but mostly feel like the equivalent of trimming fingernails with a chainsaw. Most of the sets I see include grits as heavy as 120 or 240 which I've always understood to be way too heavy for modeling. I'm a fan of the sanding sticks on offer at Flory Models. They have loads of sizes, styles, and grits, and I bought a bunch years ago and they're still going strong.
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Nov 29, 2020 15:56
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The Locator posted:The model Fearless suggested is good, but based on your post, are you sure he wants a wood model and not a plastic ship model? Thank you! I bought the model Fearless suggested, and I was actually going to buy him a plastic one as well so he can try both. If he ends up liking the wooden ones more I will definitely keep this site in mind.
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Nov 29, 2020 17:18
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I'm a fan of the sanding sticks on offer at Flory Models. They have loads of sizes, styles, and grits, and I bought a bunch years ago and they're still going strong. I second this. I'm through several MGs and finally about done with my first couple sticks. They're really good and last a long time.
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Nov 29, 2020 17:30
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Suzaku posted:I second this. I'm through several MGs and finally about done with my first couple sticks. They're really good and last a long time. I go to the local drug store (or Amazon) and buy emory boards. Available in a fair number of grits and super cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MV5772J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_6a9WFb3TFDD2T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Nov 29, 2020 17:46
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Can you use a planer on XPS foam? I want to make a street, and rather than cutting thin strips to make the curbs/sidewalks I'd rather just plane the street out.
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Nov 29, 2020 19:31
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With light pressure and sharp blade it should work. I found that if you put too much pressure while cutting it can bunch up and tear instead of a clean cut.
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Nov 29, 2020 19:36
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The Locator posted:I go to the local drug store (or Amazon) and buy emory boards. Available in a fair number of grits and super cheap. Yeah, same here. The fun part about building models is that a lot of the tools can be adapted from other hobbies/professions, often at far, far cheaper prices.
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Nov 29, 2020 23:26
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Finally done (one third of, at best) the huge Trumpeter 1:16 Panzer IV Ausf.J. Album: https://imgur.com/gallery/HOlDIPu This kit is HUGE. The box has a carrying handle and there are four smaller boxes inside with sprues. Assembly is mostly fine, little sanding is required aside from fitting the final drives into their slots. The most annoying part is finding the right sprue since each individual box doesn't say what sprues are in it. Also there are no painting directions for the interior, so I just went with whatever looks coolest.
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Nov 30, 2020 00:12
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What happened to your Soviet wiretappers avatar, EE?
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Nov 30, 2020 01:40
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I told someone IRL that lagers were garbage and it turns out they were a goon with  to burn.
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Nov 30, 2020 01:51
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Ensign Expendable posted:I told someone IRL that lagers were garbage and it turns out they were a goon with
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Nov 30, 2020 01:54
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  The foremast shrouds are now under tension and the sheer poles have been installed. Tying the clove hitches with tweezers was easier than I thought it would be. There's nothing left to add to the foremast now; it's done. I may finish the main mast shrouds tomorrow, but it's looking like I may only have a couple of day's work left on this until she's finished. Fearless fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 10:45
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Cool boat. What do the flags say?
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Nov 30, 2020 15:15
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Ensign Expendable posted:Cool boat. What do the flags say? “Stuck in old joke factory, come friendly bombs and fall on Slough!”
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Nov 30, 2020 15:42
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Finally
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Dec 1, 2020 17:26
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I'm coming to the conclusion that Revel kits are just poo poo. In an effort to spend more time with friends, my buddy's girlfriend suggested he and I order some projects to do over zoom. (sounds familliar? well it is.) After a lot of discussion, we decided on building the Revell P-61 Black Widow. He's helping some people do stuff with their life for a week or two, so we're not gonna get building until near Christmas. Amusingly, the P-61 is a model I built as a kid. I still remember big parts of it. Including it having a lot of flash that needs to be taken care of. Since I was ordering from OmniModels anyway, I grabbed a cheap plane I don't have yet. A P-40 warhawk. Also by Revell.  The plane is made by ZongShen in china, using a 1967 Mold that's labeled Revell. And the manual is printed in 2017. This all matters, because the kit is terrible.  That looks like pretty normal sprue. But.. the list of "problems" are long. I had to shave the locating pins on the left wing, as they kept the wings open. The cowling never quite closed right. The floor for the cockpit isn't the right width for the fuselage (it's to narrow). The locating features in the fuselage aren't right for the dashboard. There's no closure and the match of the back of the cockpit is terrible. The landing gear covers are.. only vaguely the right size. But since I need practice, I decided I was going forward with this anyway. There's no clear wheel well, so I just painted the whole inside of the wing.  You can see the zongshen stamp. Which amuses me, as I know the company. They make motorcycles and scooters too. Until this model, I've never dry brushed. But after paitning the dashboard I was deeply disapointed in not being able to see ANYTHING.  Dry brushing.. works. You can see I didn't have the brush QUITE dry enough for one pass there. But geeze, there's detail now!  That's really as tight as the forward cowling ever got. Looking into the cockpit while the wings are setting up.. as the wing to fuselage gap was...awful. I did a little more dry brushing on the throttle quadrant.  After dealing with big messes on every other plane, I've decided that when I do putty, I'm going to mask it off.   That is a lot easier to manage, and not mung up the in mold features.  It's not a "lot" of putty, but it's on every major seam. I didn't get photos of all the stuff I had to do on the front of the landing leg fairings. So... I don't have an airbrush. And nearly all of the painting tutorials seem to be with oils. I'm not dealing with oils. Using a 3:1 mix of tap water and tamiya paint, I painted the thing.   And some masking to get the belly painted.  It would take 3-4 coats to get a solid color on the plane. You'll see some of the (not bright enough) green I used to fake alodine peeking out on the fuselage. I used that as surfacer so I could tell if I sanded things well enough on the putty lines. I freehanded the cockpit. I'll buy some liquid mask later. But more than 2' away and you can't really tell.  And then came the decals.   I'm still working on getting the spinner and prop painted properly. But I think the next step is to put some sort of matte or semi-gloss sealer and.. maybe try some oils for weathering? I feel like it's not bad for a model started 11pm friday night. :-) And a model that is genuinely pretty bad.
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Dec 7, 2020 08:57
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That looks like the same P40 kit I did recently and had the same general problems, gaps in the fusillade, crappy cockpit, landing gear, and worst of all the sharks tooth decals didn’t fit right.
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Dec 7, 2020 09:13
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I didn't realize how the landing gear was going to work out. It's mount is a thin, flimsy, nasty little bit attached to the lower wing, which is unsupported on two sides, and has no way to transfer force to the upper wing. And the support struts have nothing to attach to. They just stick out into air. I can't believe I didn't mention it. I still need to put the gear doors on. I'll do that sometime this week. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Dec 7, 2020 |
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Dec 7, 2020 10:08
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I don't have enough base with them to know if Revel is just poo poo in general, but I can't say I've enjoyed any of their kits so far. At least this one isn't overly complex?
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Dec 7, 2020 14:29
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I did that p40b at the beginning of quarantine and yeah Revell is generally poo poo
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Dec 7, 2020 14:32
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I've found Revell to be poo poo, but anytime I see "Revell of Germany" it tends to be a decent kit. I was recently on a BTR kick, all the kits came from either Russia or Ukraine. They were amazingly detailed but unfortunately the injection molding wasn't up to the task. They ended up being exercises in futility. The base kits are cool, but the 37 individual pieces for each wheel assembly was too much.
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Dec 7, 2020 14:44
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Revell of Germany kits are usually pretty good. Most of their stuff is modern-tool. Any kit using molds from the Johnson Administration's era will be this bad. Take a look at scalemates.com to see when a kit shows "new tool." The more modern - generally - the better.
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Dec 7, 2020 15:56
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Revell has the usual problem of a lot of their kits are made using molds they've gotten a hold of from buying other companies (Frog or Matchbox for instance) and their own old stock. They're really positioned for the Walmart market so they can re-use a worn-out mold from the 60s for their P-40 and sell it for $12, or develop a completely new kit and not sell it for $30. Some of their kits are real good, they have the technology. Some of their kits are re-boxed Zvezda kits Italeri is worse because their kits start out terrible Hasegawa is even worse because they re-use old molds but positioned themselves for the hobbyist market. But they often are the only ones selling a certain subject in a given scale. I mean look at this bullshit: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-03317-a-34-comet-mk1--1274771
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Dec 7, 2020 16:03
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Hasegawa does reuse some molds, but the majority of their aircraft kits are close to Tamiya in their engineering. I've built quite a few of their 1/32 kits and they've all been great.
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Dec 7, 2020 16:15
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Revell is one of those brands where prior research really pays off. If you're not careful, you can end up making the mistake of buying the world's crappiest P-38 when a similar amount of cash will get you an impressive Mi-24. I've already learned to not be tempted by impressive decal sheets or boxart but instead rely on reviews and mold age as part of the decision process. Speaking of nasty kits, I finished the MisterCraft Caravelle I posted pictures of a few months ago in this thread. The decals are absolutely terrible, some of them fractured or went to pieces the moment they hit the water, and some of them, such as the windshield, don't even match the shape they have to cover. Keep in mind that the decalsheet was sent to me new by MisterCraft as the included one was incomplete and so out of register the carrier film didn't even match the printing some of the smaller decals at all. From a distance of about 10 meters it kinda looks like a Caravelle though.
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Dec 7, 2020 16:43
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