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I want to build a small loft in my shed to create extra storage space. The shed is 14 feet long, and I want a 2-by-8-by-14ft piece of wood to span that width (so that there is no need for vertical support in the middle). The design I have come up with is to install the "joist' between two studs, one on each of the walls on opposing sides of the shed. I plan on attaching the joist to each stud using a joist hangar (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-2-x-6-Concealed-Flange-Hanger/3034124). Would there be any concerns with attaching this joist hangar to the thin end (1.5 inches) of a stud? Every application I see attaches joist hangars to a ledgerboard.
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Nov 29, 2020 20:16
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I'd have some serious concerns about that being sufficient - even if the hanger is sufficient a 2x4 on the wall of a shed is.......suspect for a shelf/loft you think you need a 2x8 for. Sounds like you should put a cripple under each end of this 14 foot 2x8 at a minimum. Mid span would depend on the load. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Nov 29, 2020 |
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Nov 29, 2020 20:19
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What do I do for a moulding on this corner? https://i.imgur.com/1Jf8E9y.jpg I'd estimate the angle at 30°.
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Nov 29, 2020 21:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Contact the landlords and tell them what you told us -- there's some kind of respiratory hazard inside the unit, you know it's there specifically and not just a coincidence, and the unit is not safe for habitation. It needs to be tested and fixed ASAP. We're waiting to hear back from the landlord, municipality's DoH says Landlord's responsible to fix, we'll see how it goes. Wish she could stay here, but it's like 2 hours from her job, and my house is mostly gutted right now, and her kitties would have to stay with my mom. It's an option though, and I told her to do it if she wants. She snapped some pictures, this is her bedroom window which is about a foot above grade, looks like moisture penetration, I'm concerned it's also leaching into the wall. Outside  Inside  OSU_Matthew posted:Have you had the Rona? I had a nasty dry cough for several months after I caught it back in early February. It’s like all those old white ladies who were complaining to Yankee Candle that their candles don’t smell like anything without any hint of realization. We've both been exposed, so there's a fleeting chance we were just asymptomatic, I really doubt it though, I'm in my 30's, smoke, and am asthmatic, I don't think I'd be that lucky.
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Nov 29, 2020 23:41
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Jose Cuervo posted:I want to build a small loft in my shed to create extra storage space. The shed is 14 feet long, and I want a 2-by-8-by-14ft piece of wood to span that width (so that there is no need for vertical support in the middle). The design I have come up with is to install the "joist' between two studs, one on each of the walls on opposing sides of the shed. I think these would put too much bending load on those studs, it should be pretty easy to nail up a 2x8 ledger board to match your joists, keep everything nice and rigid.
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Nov 29, 2020 23:43
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Motronic posted:I'd have some serious concerns about that being sufficient - even if the hanger is sufficient a 2x4 on the wall of a shed is.......suspect for a shelf/loft you think you need a 2x8 for. The only reason I thought about using a 2x8 is because the joist hangar I looked at fits either a 2x6 or a 2x8, and so for a few dollars more I decided to use a 2x8. I do not expect to have more than 300lbs of stuff up on the loft. Based on your post this is what I plan on doing (this is a top down view): https://imgur.com/a/rqsEGhS Does this look reasonable? Elviscat posted:I think these would put too much bending load on those studs, it should be pretty easy to nail up a 2x8 ledger board to match your joists, keep everything nice and rigid. Given my building skills I think the cripple stud solution sounds more doable, but I will keep this idea in mind. Jose Cuervo fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 01:48
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Jose Cuervo posted:The only reason I thought about using a 2x8 is because the joist hangar I looked at fits either a 2x6 or a 2x8, and so for a few dollars more I decided to use a 2x8. Yeah, that seems a lot more reasonable, 300 lbs should be fine and you can and should use less than 2x8. You're DOWNGRADING your carrying capacity by adding the weight of 2x8s. If you intend to put decent plywood up there and screw it down well in the field you could probably go 2x4 the entire way around. You should definitely be 2x4 only for the everything other than the front span. Maybe sister a couple of 2x4s for that span if you want to be extra careful. 300 lbs isn't a lot. It's nearly what the shelf you're putting up is gonna weigh. The stability of the back wall of your shed and what the cripple rests on (as presented here) matter more than "wider wood better." If you have the free space consider a brace on a 45 under the shelf in one or more places around mid span. If that's not reasonable I still wouldn't worry about it. If you need more carrying capacity and are having too much deflection in the center run a 2x4 above across the shelf and tie the shelf in. Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 02:04
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regulargonzalez posted:What do I do for a moulding on this corner?
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Nov 30, 2020 02:34
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Ive seen the green fiba tape for green board, which makes sense to not have paper where it's exposed to water, but is there special mud for use with mold resistant drywall?
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Nov 30, 2020 03:07
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Motronic posted:Yeah, that seems a lot more reasonable, 300 lbs should be fine and you can and should use less than 2x8. You're DOWNGRADING your carrying capacity by adding the weight of 2x8s. Got it, thanks. Definitely did not consider that using a 2x8 would downgrade carrying capacity. The cripple will be snug up against a stud and go down to the bottom plate (i.e., it rests on the bottom plate).
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Nov 30, 2020 03:30
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Jose Cuervo posted:The cripple will be snug up against a stud and go down to the bottom plate (i.e., it rests on the bottom plate). Perfect. I'm not about to assume based on very little information.
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Nov 30, 2020 03:44
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Jose Cuervo posted:Based on your post this is what I plan on doing (this is a top down view):
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Nov 30, 2020 10:46
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QQ - I have big stacks of acrylic that I print on for framed artwork, but they are stacked on the floor or on shelves that sag in the middle from the weight, and I've noticed some of the acrylic bending from this. What can I buy to act as a metal rectangle base that I can put the acrylic in to guarantee a perfectly level base? Something like a small metal sheet thats bent up on all 4 sides so it cant ever sag? I need a bunch of them (like 10 or so) but I'm not sure what I could buy. The acrylic is around 8.5x11 inches..
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Nov 30, 2020 13:55
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FateFree posted:QQ - I have big stacks of acrylic that I print on for framed artwork, but they are stacked on the floor or on shelves that sag in the middle from the weight, and I've noticed some of the acrylic bending from this. What can I buy to act as a metal rectangle base that I can put the acrylic in to guarantee a perfectly level base? Something like a small metal sheet thats bent up on all 4 sides so it cant ever sag? I need a bunch of them (like 10 or so) but I'm not sure what I could buy. The acrylic is around 8.5x11 inches.. Is there a reason you can't store them upright (on their sides)? If they are actually 8.5x11 I'm sure you can find all kinds of boxes for holding files that will fit them. Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 14:45
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I assumed that would be even worse for some reason. Is that the correct way I should be storing these? I'm gonna need a ton of space since I have fairly large stacks of these things.
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Nov 30, 2020 15:29
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Gf just called, water heater is leaking out of the drain valve on the bottom of it. Guess it needs to be replaced? I dont know anything about them except they are expected to have about a 5 year lifespan around here, and we've been in the house 3 years and I dunno how old the thing is so. My dad is out in the boat fishing so I cant get a hold of him for a while.
codo27 fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Nov 30, 2020 |
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Nov 30, 2020 15:45
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codo27 posted:Gf just called, water heater is leaking out of the drain valve on the bottom of it. Guess it needs to be replaced? I dont know anything about them except they are expected to have about a 5 year lifespan around here, and we've been in the house 3 years and I dunno how old the thing is so. My dad is out in the boat fishing so I cant get a hold of him for a while. Yes probably. Kill the heat source, kill the input water, hook up a hose to it out the door, open the drain, open a tap set to 100% hot or flip the pressure relief valve open. If it's outside or in a place you generally are OK with flooding just kill the input water and heat source. Call a plumber from there if you are not interested in DIY. Figure out why water heaters have a 5 year life near you, you probably need a water softener.
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Nov 30, 2020 16:40
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Its cause our water is poo poo, it looks like iced tea. They cant handle it for any longer. Based on what I'm reading and what she's told me (I'm at work), it sounds like we may not need to replace the whole thing and only the washer around the drain. I hope anyway, dont need this right before Christmas.
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Nov 30, 2020 16:57
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OSU_Matthew posted:The iron piping is likely either gas or old galvanized water supply lines. I would first try feeling the pipe and see if it’s cold. Open a nearby tap and see if it changes temperature or if you can feel water hammer by rapidly opening and closing the tap. If that’s inconclusive, you could take a razor blade and try scraping some paint off and see if the pipes are silver or black, that’d possibly give you some indication (though I’ve got old galvanized gas supply lines from before there was electricity in my place, so may not be helpful depending on when your house was built). The "U" and the capped off stub appear to be 3/4" and 1/2" cpvc, respectively. The house isn't that old (2003) and just one owner before us who I don't think did a lot to the house so it strikes me as something that was plumbed like this when the house was built for some potential future use. We have pretty hard water here so that's why I thought maybe it was done as a water softener installation spot
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Nov 30, 2020 19:55
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FateFree posted:I assumed that would be even worse for some reason. Is that the correct way I should be storing these? I'm gonna need a ton of space since I have fairly large stacks of these things. Baking sheet?
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Nov 30, 2020 20:31
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Wallet posted:Is there a reason you can't store them upright (on their sides)? If they are actually 8.5x11 I'm sure you can find all kinds of boxes for holding files that will fit them. Well I googled it earlier, and the company Acrylite recommends on their sides like you said. I feel dumb for stacking them for so many weeks, I never really thought about it - but I'm guessing on their sides there just won't be so much weight. Hopefully I didn't bend too many of them!
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Nov 30, 2020 20:36
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Final Blog Entry posted:The "U" and the capped off stub appear to be 3/4" and 1/2" cpvc, respectively. The house isn't that old (2003) and just one owner before us who I don't think did a lot to the house so it strikes me as something that was plumbed like this when the house was built for some potential future use. We have pretty hard water here so that's why I thought maybe it was done as a water softener installation spot Pretty sure those loops are commonly installed for exactly that purpose, so I'd vote for your conclusion.
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Nov 30, 2020 23:15
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At work we have a 4-compartment underbar sink and the drain pipes/slip joints get bumped frequently. (Picture: https://imgur.com/a/wqoVac1.) It feels like there's a better way to run drainage pipes so I've tried to read through plumbing code, find installation instructions or example installs for a "correct way," but can't find anything specific enough to give me confidence. Does anyone know what the appropriate thing would be to do here? If nothing else, I'd like to raise the horizontal run to the orange line in the picture, shortening those four vertical pipes, but then I wonder if there's a reason it was installed the way I'm seeing now.
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Nov 30, 2020 23:21
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handle posted:At work we have a 4-compartment underbar sink and the drain pipes/slip joints get bumped frequently. (Picture: https://imgur.com/a/wqoVac1.) It feels like there's a better way to run drainage pipes so I've tried to read through plumbing code, find installation instructions or example installs for a "correct way," but can't find anything specific enough to give me confidence. I'd guess the horizontal run is as far down as it is because that's the level it's at at the wall and the plumber didn't want to put a pair of 90's at the end of the run. As for protecting the run...can you just put some drywall or plywood in front of the pipes? Ideally you'd build a cabinet around all that with doors so you can still access it when necessary.
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Nov 30, 2020 23:28
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Oh, sorry! The picture's misleading. The compartments actually empty into a floor drain, visible just behind the bucket. There's a 90deg bend at the end of that horizontal run that has a short vertical pipe as part of the air gap. A plywood barrier is a good idea, thanks! Things get shuffled around a lot right now so I'll have to see what's getting stored under there and get a real carpenter to put a cabinet in eventually.
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Nov 30, 2020 23:44
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Ahh, I misread the photo. Well, I'm not a plumber, but I don't see why you couldn't raise the run up to where you drew that line. As far as I can tell about the only difference it'd make is if something got jammed you'd have less water pressure to flush it out with.
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Nov 30, 2020 23:58
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FateFree posted:Well I googled it earlier, and the company Acrylite recommends on their sides like you said. I feel dumb for stacking them for so many weeks, I never really thought about it - but I'm guessing on their sides there just won't be so much weight. Hopefully I didn't bend too many of them! As long as you don't stack them multiple rows high without a shelf or something in between them (don't do this) it will just be the weight of the sheet itself on it. With bigger sheets of acrylic they can bow themselves if you don't have them well supported from both sides, but with ~8.5x11 you shouldn't be anywhere near needing to worry about that.
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Dec 1, 2020 01:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Ahh, I misread the photo. Well, I'm not a plumber, but I don't see why you couldn't raise the run up to where you drew that line. As far as I can tell about the only difference it'd make is if something got jammed you'd have less water pressure to flush it out with. I wanna say screw those slip joints too. Get some ABS fittings and cement and build a new run much higher up out of the way that’s not going to get jostled and isn’t going to fall apart or leak if it does.
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Dec 1, 2020 08:27
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FateFree posted:I assumed that would be even worse for some reason. Is that the correct way I should be storing these? I'm gonna need a ton of space since I have fairly large stacks of these things. Upright is how they store them at every warehouse I've seen that stores large plastic sheets. e: Oh I guess they're not even large? Just get a shelf that doesn't sag.
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Dec 1, 2020 09:08
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yippee cahier posted:I wanna say screw those slip joints too. Get some ABS fittings and cement and build a new run much higher up out of the way that’s not going to get jostled and isn’t going to fall apart or leak if it does.
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Dec 1, 2020 18:47
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Elviscat posted:We're waiting to hear back from the landlord, municipality's DoH says Landlord's responsible to fix, we'll see how it goes. I'm a landlord-side attorney but can't give you legal advice, in part because the laws about this sort of thing are different in each state and I'm only licensed to practice law in a different state than yours. That means I don't actually know what the laws are in your specific state. Your state's Attorney General's Office likely has a great tenant information webpage about your rights and your landlords obligations in these types of situations. Do some digging for that. This qualifies as a FAQ regardless of where you live. Three things I think might be universal here: 1. The landlord always has an obligation to provide a living environment that's habitable. Mold and pests are the two most common reasons that apartments are deemed uninhabitable in my area (probably everywhere?). 2. Notify the landlord of the problem IN WRITING and request a fix. In many states, the day that you provide this written notice starts the landlord's clock on when the repairs need to be made (two weeks in Minnesota). A text or a phone call isn't good enough from a legal perspective. Obviously you can be a normal person and call or text with your landlord about things, but consider writing a short two- or three-sentence letter as well to to document the date you first brought it to their attention. When this happened to me once, I wrote the letter, mailed it out, then called my landlord and just said "Hey, I wrote you a short letter about some [mold] issues I'm having in my apartment, but wanted to give you a call as well. Could you please come out and take a look?" This should be enough to get the ball rolling most of the time. 3. If you aren't getting cooperation from your landlord, consider calling the housing/building inspectors' department in your city and requesting an inspection. In my area this costs the tenant nothing, and creates a real headache for the landlord. The inspector will come inspect the property, issue a corrective notice or similar document that lists any housing or building code deficiencies in your unit and provides a reinspection deadline by which your landlord will have to make all of the fixes (usually 30 days out in Minnesota). 9 times out of 10 the inspector will find a bunch of other things unrelated to the mold that the landlord will have to fix as well, so it's a huge pain in the rear end for them and not a good way to make friends. This might be your nuclear option in case you're not able to get anywhere through diplomacy. If none of this gets you anywhere, it's time to contact an attorney about the possibility of withholding your rent. Good luck!
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Dec 1, 2020 21:52
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I'm trying to install a wired video doorbell system. I've found the chime/siren for the defunct security system, but I can't find the transformer. I do have one of these in the garage, is this basically the transformer? The previous house owners didn't really explain what that was. It appears to be a security system panel, but I don't have a security system as far as I know. When I go to the door, there are some wires sticking out.  So, my issues are. I can't find the doorbell chime (save for the siren), and I have these weird colored lights. Should I just get a wireless version so I don't have to mess with all these wires? My understanding is I can just ignore the green and yellow wires and use the black and red, but when I connect them, nothing happens. Presumably because I haven't been able to jump the two cables in the chime, which I can't find. Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Dec 1, 2020 |
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Dec 1, 2020 22:34
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Cross-post from plumbing thread We got a new washer/dryer, but the washer is sticking quite a bit further from the wall than I had anticipated due to the steel water lines, which are both straight ended. I see that they make lines with an elbow on one end, but that would still have the water line sticking out from the water supply box pretty far, and I don't think would give us much more space. Would it be dumb to put an elbow adapter coming off the supplies to angle them down against the wall, then use the elbow end of an elbow hose to attach to the washer? Due to the hose the washer is about 4" from the wall, and the installation manual says it only needs 2". 2" isn't a lot, but it is in the pantry the washer/dryer are in
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Dec 1, 2020 22:39
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Cross-post from plumbing thread Can you take pictures of the setup? Blakkout posted:I'm a landlord-side attorney but can't give you legal advice, in part because the laws about this sort of thing are different in each state and I'm only licensed to practice law in a different state than yours. That means I don't actually know what the laws are in your specific state. Your state's Attorney General's Office likely has a great tenant information webpage about your rights and your landlords obligations in these types of situations. Do some digging for that. This qualifies as a FAQ regardless of where you live. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
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Dec 1, 2020 22:54
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nvm
ufarn fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Dec 2, 2020 |
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Dec 2, 2020 00:05
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A year or so ago my roofers hosed up my gutters and I'm preparing to fix them, because the gutters themselves are pretty nice metal ones. <-- closeup of one of the stripped screws <-- What happens now because of the bent.Basically they just leaned on 'em pretty hard while redoing the roof and now there's a big bow in the middle that pours out and the screws are stripped out pretty hard. I went through a few months ago and tried just tightening it and it didn't work well. So the new plan is basically one of two things after removing the gutter and trying to bend it back into the original shape, either: 1. Try bigger screws if they'll fit in the mounting brackets for the gutter supports or 2. Go nuclear option: drill out the stripped holes, glue in some dowels, and come back later with the original or same size screws. Is there a better option I'm ignoring here?
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Dec 2, 2020 01:28
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Elviscat posted:Can you take pictures of the setup? You can see the water coming off the supply on the top, and going into the washer on the bottom. It's a compact stackable set, so there's a lot going on back there, but I think the main limiter to moving the machine back is the supply line. I haven't done anything yet, but I did pick up two of these hoses, along with these elbows: https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-4-ft-L-3-4-in-FHT-Inlet-x-3-4-in-Outlet-Braided-Stainless-Steel-Washing-Machine-Fill-Hose/1000096748 https://www.lowes.com/pd/EASTMAN-2-Pack-200-PSI-Brass-Washing-machine-connector/1002103270 
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Dec 2, 2020 01:45
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Falcon2001 posted:A year or so ago my roofers hosed up my gutters and I'm preparing to fix them, because the gutters themselves are pretty nice metal ones. I'll admit the slight bit of space between the gutter and your roof at the bottom doesn't really make sense to me as to why the water is pissing over the top that much unless the slope got hosed up and/or there is a blockage in the downspout or gutter run. edit: quoted
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Dec 2, 2020 01:46
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Falcon2001 posted:A year or so ago my roofers hosed up my gutters and I'm preparing to fix them, because the gutters themselves are pretty nice metal ones. If your concern is that the screw won't hold where it is anymore because the wood has too large of a hole in it, by far the easiest way to fix that is toothpicks and wood glue. When you say they stripped the screws that would normally make the think the screw head is damaged, but it sounds like you're talking about the wood. Basically pour some wood glue on a scrap of cardboard, roll a toothpick in it, jam it in the hole. Repeat until the hole is plugged, let dry, then cut flush with a box cutter or whatever. Easier than drilling it out and using a dowel, but just as effective.
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Dec 2, 2020 02:39
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armorer posted:If your concern is that the screw won't hold where it is anymore because the wood has too large of a hole in it, by far the easiest way to fix that is toothpicks and wood glue. When you say they stripped the screws that would normally make the think the screw head is damaged, but it sounds like you're talking about the wood. Yeah, I said it wrong, just spaced out. The screws seem alright and the holes are wrecked. Toothpicks are a good idea. tangy yet delightful posted:Can you get a picture from the topside? There are gutter hangers that go inside your gutter that should work to hold it up properly but it would depend on what sort of lip you have I suppose. I think the slope got hosed up somehow but it's a good reminder to doublecheck my downspout, but I think it is just the middle of the gutter being bent out of shape; I can see over the edge from the walkway nearby so I can doublecheck it but I think last time I looked while it was raining it was bent enough over the length that the standing water level was lower than the downspout entry.
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Dec 2, 2020 05:56
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