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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Turn a rough-cut board into a smooth board where opposite faces are parallel. Oh, poo poo I didn't realize that the bench-vice had a place to attach wood on it! I guess I'm going to have to buy a planer, unless the belt-sander I also inherited should do the job as well?
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Dec 1, 2020 17:04
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If you just want two boards to stick into your vise, you can just buy S2S1E (Surfaced two sides, 1 edge) boards, no need to make them yourself. If you want to be able to turn rough-cut boards into finished projects then you'll want a planer though, yeah. A belt sander might work OK for such a small use case, but as a general solution to flattening boards it's not a good one; much too aggressive and very hard to keep consistent.
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Dec 1, 2020 17:55
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I've been making picture frames for a bit, but I've only made them for a specific piece. Now I want to make one for my sister that has three openings, to hold 5x7 photos of her kids. This might end up being one frame with dividers or three separate frames attached in some manner, but that's not really the point -- I want to use the easel backs you see on commercial frames that are intended to sit on a surface, and I want them to be easily changeable (once a year or so). Would something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Cardboard-Hinged-Hangers-Perfect/dp/B07Y5KDCMX/ combined with these turn buttons (https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Picture-Hanging-Pictures-Drawing/dp/B07WVWCYJ5/) do the job? I assume how this all goes together in the rabbet is glass/acrylic, photo, some kind of compressible shim (foam, corrugated cardboard), easel back, trying to get that as flush with the back as possible or possibly a little proud, then use the turn buttons screwed into the back of the frame to hold it all down. Somehow I can't find any information on how this is supposed to work, people actually making their own frames never make them to be changeable and people making changeable frames are always DIY-ish craft people who are like Velcroing something onto a piece of bead board in a frame they bought, which is fine, but not what I'm trying to do.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:18
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Gonna say that if you have to ask the question on that sander, you probably aren't prepared for the massive pain in the loving rear end that it would be to properly flatten poo poo with a belt sander. EDIT: because I thought the same loving thing some time ago and all I did was make wavy wood and get upset. Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Dec 1, 2020 |
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Dec 1, 2020 19:40
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Depends on if you’re using matting (I would, it keeps the pictures from sticking to the glass), but essentially what you’ve described. The easel back doesn’t sit proud with the back of the frame always, and fasteners would either turn into a thin mortise set into the frame, or with the ones you posted they are fastened to the frame and hold onto the easel back board to whatever depth you set them when attached to the frame. You can always add more cardboard to get your depth right too. Pretty sure the way you’re conceptualizing it will work out right, but there’s a few ways of doing frames which is why it’s annoying to find methods.
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Dec 1, 2020 19:49
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more falafel please posted:I've been making picture frames for a bit, but I've only made them for a specific piece. Now I want to make one for my sister that has three openings, to hold 5x7 photos of her kids. This might end up being one frame with dividers or three separate frames attached in some manner, but that's not really the point -- I want to use the easel backs you see on commercial frames that are intended to sit on a surface, and I want them to be easily changeable (once a year or so). You don't know it yet, but you really need one of these: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/32922-miter-trimmer?item=03H0101 Very handy for inlay work too. Otherwise I think your approach is basically good and should work.
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Dec 1, 2020 20:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You don't know it yet, but you really need one of these: That might happen at some point, but so far I've been pretty good with a table saw sled where I cut one side of each joint on alternating sides. If they don't go together pretty much perfectly the first time I gang up the parallel sides and skim a little dust cut to even them up. If I'm gonna spend $220 at Lee Valley I'd probably rather buy something more general purpose, I make less than 10 frames a year.
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Dec 1, 2020 20:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You don't know it yet, but you really need one of these: 
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Dec 1, 2020 21:38
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turns out that hardwood scraps can make some really nice trivets with just a bit of trimming and sanding.
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Dec 1, 2020 21:47
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Gonna say that if you have to ask the question on that sander, you probably aren't prepared for the massive pain in the loving rear end that it would be to properly flatten poo poo with a belt sander. NGL, I have never used the 20 year old belt sander and I have yet to figure out a use for it (I'm told you can flip it over and use it upside down for precision). The only power-sander I've used is my handy little Ryobi orbital. It seems most of my purchased power tools have been Ryobi due to cost, and they're pretty drat functional.
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Dec 1, 2020 22:12
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I turn mine around and clamp it in place all the time. I’m pretty sure that this is the ideal way to use a belt sander for a lot of purposes. Just don’t be surprised if you sand off the skin on your finger sometime.
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Dec 1, 2020 22:23
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Cpt_Obvious posted:NGL, I have never used the 20 year old belt sander and I have yet to figure out a use for it (I'm told you can flip it over and use it upside down for precision). The only power-sander I've used is my handy little Ryobi orbital. It seems most of my purchased power tools have been Ryobi due to cost, and they're pretty drat functional. The only Ryobi tool I've bought that I'm actually unhappy with is their table saw. I never made a table saw cut I wasn't terrified of on that thing, and it took minutes of fiddling to set the fence square, every time. Everything else has been good enough, and cheap. For a lot of tools (not all) the basic functionality is going to be the same, the high-end brands will have some combination of extra features, better durability, and better comfort when using the tool for a long time, which is obviously important to professionals, but I'm a hobbyist weekend/evenings type woodworker, so a tool that lasts a contractor 2 years and wears their arm out could last me 10 years and not be a problem for the 10 minutes a week I use it.
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Dec 1, 2020 22:44
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Having their 1/2" hammer drill break the first time I used it soured me (the trigger switch failed). And the warranty service was a huge pain. But, they're cheap. I think they're biggest drawback is that their hand tools feel larger and heavier than their competitors'. I can't stand using my impact to change tires without hearing protection when the Milwaukees at work were find for occasional use.
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Dec 1, 2020 23:59
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more falafel please posted:The only Ryobi tool I've bought that I'm actually unhappy with is their table saw. I never made a table saw cut I wasn't terrified of on that thing, and it took minutes of fiddling to set the fence square, every time. Everything else has been good enough, and cheap. For a lot of tools (not all) the basic functionality is going to be the same, the high-end brands will have some combination of extra features, better durability, and better comfort when using the tool for a long time, which is obviously important to professionals, but I'm a hobbyist weekend/evenings type woodworker, so a tool that lasts a contractor 2 years and wears their arm out could last me 10 years and not be a problem for the 10 minutes a week I use it. This is actually really helpful because I'm currently in the market for a table saw. I don't have enough money to purchase one right now, but does anyone have any suggestions on cheapish table saws?
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Dec 2, 2020 00:04
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Cpt_Obvious posted:This is actually really helpful because I'm currently in the market for a table saw. I don't have enough money to purchase one right now, but does anyone have any suggestions on cheapish table saws? How much space do you have and what do you want to use it for?
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Dec 2, 2020 00:12
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more falafel please posted:That might happen at some point, but so far I've been pretty good with a table saw sled where I cut one side of each joint on alternating sides. If they don't go together pretty much perfectly the first time I gang up the parallel sides and skim a little dust cut to even them up. If I'm gonna spend $220 at Lee Valley I'd probably rather buy something more general purpose, I make less than 10 frames a year. Yeah my old boss had one and I miss it about twice a year when it would be really handy, but its definitely not something I need every day. I can make four tight 90 degree miters no problem I just cannot for the life of me get all the pieces the exact same length to make those miters work together, and being able to shave off a tiny slice at a time is really helpful.
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Dec 2, 2020 00:31
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The junk collector posted:How much space do you have and what do you want to use it for? Mostly precision cutting for joints and plywood, I'd imagine. It's a bit down the road for me, as I'm currently using pocket screws to fasten my stuff together right now. As for room, I have about half a one-car garage for my total shop, and I've already got a 6-foot workbench and an old chop-block kitchen unit for workspace.
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Dec 2, 2020 00:34
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah my old boss had one and I miss it about twice a year when it would be really handy, but its definitely not something I need every day. I can make four tight 90 degree miters no problem I just cannot for the life of me get all the pieces the exact same length to make those miters work together, and being able to shave off a tiny slice at a time is really helpful. A shooting board with a 45 degree fence should allow you to do that just fine.
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Dec 2, 2020 01:05
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Gonna say that if you have to ask the question on that sander, you probably aren't prepared for the massive pain in the loving rear end that it would be to properly flatten poo poo with a belt sander. I picked up a frame for a 3x21 Ryobi belt sander for a buck which seemed like a great idea, but I never ended up getting the sander to go with, lol.
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Dec 2, 2020 01:18
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Quill got very rapidly loose in my poor old Craftsman drill press (and it doesn't have a split casting to tighten the quill) so it was finally time to get a new one. I've been agonizing over the upgrade for ~2 years and planning on the Nova Voyager, but it just keeps getting more expensive and I hate the thought of pressing membrane buttons to turn it on and off. I sort of impulse-bought the only belt drive drill press I'm okay with, Delta 18-900. It was (is) on sale at Depot and had free shipping which made it an easy choice. I'm glad Home Depot won't let you cancel orders after 45m because I started second guessing myself and probably would have canceled the Delta and ordered the new Powermatic gear drive/variable speed if I could have. The extra money I'd have spent on that will go to a helical head for my planer instead which is a lot more sane. Still though..  
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Dec 2, 2020 03:17
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Just Winging It posted:A shooting board with a 45 degree fence should allow you to do that just fine. Yeah, and $220 gets you $32 away from a veritas low angle jack plane, which is where my money would go. I'm sure it's nice to have but as a hobbyist with a small shop I can't afford space or money for tools that do one thing, even if they're super, super good at it.
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Dec 2, 2020 08:04
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Everyone with a bench and a handplane should make a shooting board I made mine the exact width so that I can lay a 12" speed square on the bed of the shooting board and use it to shoot 45° miters like this
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Dec 2, 2020 15:14
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GEMorris posted:Everyone with a bench and a handplane should make a shooting board That's really smart.
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Dec 2, 2020 15:25
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GEMorris posted:Everyone with a bench and a handplane should make a shooting board  ooohhh I have those things. Another "after xmas" project. I think I love the "making your own tools" aspect of woodworking best of all. Its very satisfying to make something that is used to make lots of other things
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Dec 2, 2020 16:29
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I made a shooting board recently. I like it. I'm going to modify it to steal the speed square idea.
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Dec 2, 2020 16:51
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I made a shooting board and shooting board plane a few years ago. I'll post pics tonight.
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Dec 2, 2020 17:01
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GEMorris posted:Everyone with a bench and a handplane should make a shooting board Guess I need a shoulder plane next.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:33
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Do do you shooting board users keep the long grain from busting out at the far edge of the cut when shooting across endgrain?
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Dec 2, 2020 20:42
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GEMorris posted:Everyone with a bench and a handplane should make a shooting board I guess. I have one but it rarely gets used. I don't remember when the last time I used it was.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:54
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Do do you shooting board users keep the long grain from busting out at the far edge of the cut when shooting across endgrain? Where I can't chamfer it, I throw in a stop of equal or greater thickness to the board, and advance by mere butthairs at a time.
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Dec 2, 2020 20:57
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Are you guys using good planes with 90 degree sides, or is there something in missing that means only the sole has to be flat for shooting boards?
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Dec 2, 2020 21:01
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Flea Bargain posted:Are you guys using good planes with 90 degree sides, or is there something in missing that means only the sole has to be flat for shooting boards? Regardless of how perfectly 90 the sides are, you still need to tweak the lateral adjust to get a perfect 90 degree on a shooting board. Mostly what matters is that the sides are flat and as close as possible to 90, but perfection isn't necessary. I've made a couple shooting boards with varying degrees of usefulness. I've got a big one (which I spent a ton of time making) that I use a #7 with and I've got a little short one that I use a #4 or jack with. The smaller one is shabby and awful but far more useful. The big perfect one I rarely use. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 2, 2020 |
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Dec 2, 2020 21:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Do do you shooting board users keep the long grain from busting out at the far edge of the cut when shooting across endgrain? The fence at the back of the board should prevent most of this, but it its been damaged or isnt working well enough, do a proactive chamfer to the back corner. ColdPie posted:I guess. I have one but it rarely gets used. I don't remember when the last time I used it was. I don't know when the last time I didn't use one on a project. The level of control is just so high. Also the smaller the pieces the more my work centers around the shooting board.
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Dec 2, 2020 21:29
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I got a cheap table saw recently (ridgid 4514). Apart from the obvious adjustments (square blade to table, square fence to blade, line up riving knife), what components might need tuning or adjustment right out of the box?
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Dec 2, 2020 22:16
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HolHorsejob posted:I got a cheap table saw recently (ridgid 4514). Apart from the obvious adjustments (square blade to table, square fence to blade, line up riving knife), what components might need tuning or adjustment right out of the box? I am seconding the request for cheap table saw advice. I really need to stop trawling Amazon Warehouse deals, but I just couldn't say no to this price: 
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Dec 2, 2020 22:45
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HolHorsejob posted:I got a cheap table saw recently (ridgid 4514). Apart from the obvious adjustments (square blade to table, square fence to blade, line up riving knife), what components might need tuning or adjustment right out of the box? Make sure the blade is parallel to the miter slots. You'll probably also want a zero-clearance throat plate, which might be annoying on a jobsite saw. Make a few blanks while you're at it, you probably also want one for dados.
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Dec 2, 2020 23:17
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Rutibex posted:I am seconding the request for cheap table saw advice. I really need to stop trawling Amazon Warehouse deals, but I just couldn't say no to this price: King Canada comes in two flavours. Cheap, but serviceable, and absolute garbage. You'll know when it arrives.
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Dec 3, 2020 00:09
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Blistex posted:King Canada comes in two flavours. Cheap, but serviceable, and absolute garbage. You'll know when it arrives. 
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Dec 3, 2020 01:05
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So what's the sweet spot on price-quality ratios on the table saw? Would I be better off with a well maintained 1985 craftsman saw or dropping $400+ on a new name brand one? Or
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Dec 3, 2020 01:27
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Rutibex posted:I am seconding the request for cheap table saw advice. I really need to stop trawling Amazon Warehouse deals, but I just couldn't say no to this price: Fence related: Check the fence for flatness as well. It's really nice to know just how far out a cheap fence will skew if you lock it down from different angles, like does it straighten itself up when you lock it down, or is it an accidental taper jig? It's also nice to know just how much force it takes to knock it out of alignment if you run your board into it a little too hard which is really helpful to know when you're batch cutting and wondering why half the boards are a good 1/16" fatter than the rest
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Dec 3, 2020 01:31
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