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Motronic posted:If you can hit studs on each side of the rack I don't see what the plywood gets you. It's probably a net negative. Great. Yeah, that was the image in my head as the "thing to do". I did it with 8x #14 1 inch screws I already had and it's solid as a rock. Glad I didn't overbuild it or buy more crap. (Yes this is a temporary "get internet working again asap" setup currently in the rack)
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Dec 8, 2020 03:38
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H110Hawk posted:Don't put liquid plumber down it. If the sink is accessible underneath its easy to fix assuming they use screwed on things. Call them and tell all bathroom sinks are clogged and not draining so you cannot wash your hands in the bathroom. They just don't answer the phone and never call back. I'd have to go into the leasing office and make a case for it being a habitability issue and that I'm withholding rent under blablabla, assuming I can even make a case, and it's easier to just pull the drat pipe myself and clear it.
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Dec 8, 2020 04:41
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Menards has a finished door that looks extremely close to our existing doors and if my measurements are correct it should fit. As of Friday I have a full month off work so I'm hoping to tackle this project sometime in the next 2 weeks. I have a wide array of tools, will I need anything specialized?
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Dec 8, 2020 05:07
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Rhyno posted:Menards has a finished door that looks extremely close to our existing doors and if my measurements are correct it should fit. These pry bars and a small block of wood to pry against are fantastic for pulling trim. Other than that, a helper wouldn’t go amiss. An air nailer is nice but not necessary. And don’t forget a pack of shims. Depending on what you consider specialized, you’ll also need a chisel or two, drill, and hammer. If you don’t have a good van or truck to transport the door home, it’s worth the 20$ truck rental to make sure the door unit arrives in one piece. Oh, and be sure you’re pulling back the trim and measuring the rough opening for your door before you buy anything. Otherwise it’s a pretty straightforward task, and a great candidate for diy!
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Dec 8, 2020 06:30
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Might need a punch to avoid hammering the trim itself or for any stubborn nails that don’t go down all the way.
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Dec 8, 2020 11:27
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I think I have all of that!
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Dec 8, 2020 12:11
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If you’ve never installed a prehung door before, these kits can help. They’d slow down a pro, but for a one-off, they might be a good idea. EZ-Hang™ Door or Window Installation Kit at Menards https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444435960713.htm
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Dec 8, 2020 15:04
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Rhyno posted:I think I have all of that! You also need a square and a level.
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Dec 8, 2020 15:16
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Motronic posted:You also need a square and a level. I have those as well. Also according to many of the cool kids I am myself a square. I think my main concern here is going to be the door trim.
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Dec 8, 2020 15:26
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Looking for ideas on what to do about sewer smell in my house... I have a two story house, bathroom is upstairs. I've been getting a sewer smell, sometimes pretty strong at really random times. I've been in the house for 5 years and this is the first year we've noticed it. In the spring I had the main drain pipe roto rootered out (first time since living here), the plumber said he pulled a lot of roots out. A couple months ago I had the stack cleaned out from the toilet down. Yesterday morning the sewer smell was bad in the basement and in the bathroom, so I called the city and asked if they can clean the main and they actually did... the guy said that in the middle of the street where we are is a high spot so it's possible debris is sitting in the main that doesn't get moved out due to low-flow toilets etc. He flushed the main out. Then last night I could smell sewer smell in a bedroom that shares a wall with the bathroom and stack again... I'm not really sure what else to even do. Traps are definitely not dried out, where could the sewer smell even be coming from? Everything seems to drain well, we don't get gurgling from sinks or toilet or anything.
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Dec 8, 2020 15:35
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Kashwashwa posted:Looking for ideas on what to do about sewer smell in my house... Are you sure you don't have a floor drain or something that has dried out? When humidity drops in winter you will see those evaporate pretty fast.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:17
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The roto-rooting (whatever that is) broke something and now you've got a sea of poo poo under your house.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:24
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glynnenstein posted:Are you sure you don't have a floor drain or something that has dried out? When humidity drops in winter you will see those evaporate pretty fast. There is a hole in the middle of the ground of our basement, it's not a proper drain though, I honestly think it just goes down like 6 feet or so and stops. I did fill it with water anyway. It's like the previous owner was going to install a drain and bailed on the idea. My house was originally built in 1894, so I have no idea how old anything is.
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Dec 8, 2020 16:29
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Kashwashwa posted:Looking for ideas on what to do about sewer smell in my house... You also mentioned: "A couple months ago I had the stack cleaned out from the toilet down." How old is your house? How many bathrooms? Did you have the smell before the cleaning? The problem with a clogged sewer pipe isn't the smell, its that your pooh has no where to go until it starts pouring out of your lowest drain. For you to smell the sewer gas--the gas has to be getting out somewhere where water can't also get out. The thought being you would notice the water. And if it isn't a trap, that leaves you vent stack as a suspect. If the smell wasn't there before a plumber started running snakes through your pipes and now there is a smell--I'd be thinking something in my vent lines got cracked or punctured. e: I take a long time to post... 1894--yikes!!!
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Dec 8, 2020 16:49
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Rhyno posted:I have those as well. So, back to this for a moment. My basement doorway is a fully finished frame   None of the videos I've watched have dealt with that. It seems like it's going to be more difficult based on this. Like I'm going to have to pull the trim the entire frame and that will effect the size door I need to buy?
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Dec 8, 2020 17:21
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Rhyno posted:It seems like it's going to be more difficult based on this. Like I'm going to have to pull the trim the entire frame and that will effect the size door I need to buy? Yes. You need to know the size of the opening with out the trim on it. "Rough opening". And you may need to change that size. This is why I was asking you how much space was available.
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Dec 8, 2020 17:22
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Motronic posted:Yes. You need to know the size of the opening with out the trim on it. "Rough opening". And you may need to change that size. This is why I was asking you how much space was available. Gotcha. Well I won't know that until I remove it and that won't be for another week at least so I'll come back to this when I am actually ready to do this project.
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Dec 8, 2020 17:27
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I've been binging This Old House on Pluto and man, there's no faster path to humility than to watch these guys at work. Anyway, the end of stage 1 of my house renovation (i.e., I can actually move in) is in sight so I'm excited. Finishing up the plank tile in the kitchen (and fwiw if anyone is planning on laying plank tile, the leveling system was a huge, huge help), then cabinets and a few light fixtures and we can move in! Pretty great feeling given that this is my far the biggest project I've ever taken on. When I'm done I'll post some before and after so y'all can publicly compliment and silently judge my work 
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Dec 8, 2020 18:08
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Rhyno posted:So, back to this for a moment. My basement doorway is a fully finished frame Installing a prehung door is pretty straightforward once you are aware of the steps and once you pop the trim off and are able to see the actual opening. It's basically insert door, shim it plumb, screw it in, reinstall trim. I did my front door which had a few extra steps due to weatherproofing and wrestling with a threshold that was too deep and even then it was still pretty straightforward.
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Dec 8, 2020 18:43
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Not sure where this question should go so I’ll ask here: I bought a shipping container to use as a workshop and don’t know if there’s anything I should be doing to it now to make life easier in the future. It’s a basic 20” triton container built in 2012, retired October of this year. Body and interior have intact paint but the 4 corners have light surface rust. Do I take care of the corners or take the opportunity to repaint the whole thing? And if so, any paint recommendations? Located in the southeast so humidity is ever-present. What I’m worried about is loading my stuff into it and having to unload it 6 months from now to fix something. It’s off the ground, and container desiccant already ordered
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Dec 8, 2020 19:08
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Rhyno posted:So, back to this for a moment. My basement doorway is a fully finished frame ) and it looks like that is a 2x6 wall supporting the stairs? The door next to the opening looks like a steel exterior door? Do your other doors match the trim and jambs? i.e. Are your interior doors solid wood and stained?If your other doors are solid wood--my vote would be to get a raw door and mortise in the hinges. Check the hinge side of the jamb and see if it is plumb. If it is, there is no reason to tear everything apart. Plus, you don't want to replace your trim--it is really nice. If your market is big enough, your big box will stock solid wood doors. https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-...0-in/1001860512. Grab a door, three hinges that match your others--and here is where it gets dicey--either a template and a handheld router or a nice set of sharp chisels. If you are going to DIY the project and have never worked with either set of tools--you'd better practice on both a horizontal and vertical pieces of scrap before showtime. If you screw up the jamb with a wayward router, the worst case is having to tear everything out and install a pre-hung. Hang on to that receipt for the solid wood door! If you do go for the pre-hung door--I'd recommend staying away from the off rack doors. They are typically one step above cardboard and good for closet and utility rooms. If the door is going to be visible in the main part of the house and/or used frequently--spend the money on a nicer door. Think "special order" in a big box store or head to your local builder's supply. If those are 2x6 walls holding up the stairs--you're going to need to special order to get a 6 1/2" jamb versus the 4 9/16 jamb used for most 2x4 walls. And since it is a basement door, if you are special ordering and it is not a solid wood/stain grade door, 100% make sure it is solid core and spend a little extra on upgrading the fire resistance--45min to 60min door between your basement and living space is nice piece of mind.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:13
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best bale posted:Not sure where this question should go so I’ll ask here: I bought a shipping container to use as a workshop and don’t know if there’s anything I should be doing to it now to make life easier in the future. It’s a basic 20” triton container built in 2012, retired October of this year. Body and interior have intact paint but the 4 corners have light surface rust. Do I take care of the corners or take the opportunity to repaint the whole thing? And if so, any paint recommendations? Located in the southeast so humidity is ever-present.
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Dec 8, 2020 19:19
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HycoCam posted:You have stain grade casings and jambs ('cause they're stained This sounds like it might be a viable option, ill look for some how to videos in it. Thanks for the proper terminology!
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Dec 8, 2020 19:39
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Ideas for removing the wash plate from a Maytag Bravos washing machine, model MVWX655DW1? Youtube videos show people wiggling it up after they remove the center bolt or at worst having to tap it with a hammer a few times and mine still isn't moving even after all that, plus grabbing it with channel locks and lifting up until the entire drat drum touched the lid, plus letting it soak in hot water, and now I'm trying soaking the center spline connection with penetrating oil. I'd like to not destroy it since the part I need to replace is $30 and the wash plate is over $100 but it's getting to that point.
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Dec 8, 2020 20:25
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corgski posted:Ideas for removing the wash plate from a Maytag Bravos washing machine, model MVWX655DW1? It’s probably old detergent gumming everything up so if you don’t have bleach/clp/whatever you can use impact driver to put bolt back in and then out. If no impact driver, rubber mallet that poo poo (technical term) on the sides and top of the shaft. Anything to break the stuff up
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Dec 8, 2020 20:34
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I've had the bolt in and out with an impact driver about a half dozen times, I also tried threading it in and tapping it with a mallet while lifting the plate with channel-locks and neither seemed to do much. I'm not sure what CLP is in this context but I do have a big box of TSP if soaking it in a solution of that might work.
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Dec 8, 2020 20:52
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Can’t hurt! I guess it could but I hear that stuff recommended for most everything. Maybe talk pretty to it?
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Dec 8, 2020 21:03
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Here's a video from someone with the same problem looks like the splines strip a little and need to be lined up right to pull the thing out. https://youtu.be/D4J-_FIYBRk I'd try a two or three jaw bearing puller myself, you should be able to rent one for free from most auto parts stores
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Dec 8, 2020 21:03
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best bale posted:Can’t hurt! I guess it could but I hear that stuff recommended for most everything. Maybe talk pretty to it? I called it a lot of names I like to be called but as far as I can tell it's not any looser. TSP soak is happening now. Elviscat posted:
Problem is there's nothing to bear against, there's a 6mm hole in the center which is the exact same size as the hole in the splined shaft in the center and the plate is like 14" wide so even if I could find a puller small enough to fit through that hole that could also somehow grab the plastic and not the threaded hole it wouldn't be able to reach past the wash plate.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:02
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Jenkl posted:
In the grand scheme of things, this isn't a big deal. It would get flagging and stuck in a 'things not to do' powerpoint presentation at a building science conference, but it's hard for me to figure out a gross failure that could occur by having the vapor barrier not quite correct in a small area like that bulkhead. I assume this is a basement, so that bulkhead is right around grade. Is there insulation behind it? Vapor permeance through closed cell is a relationship controlled by thickness, so even if you don't have two inches you have some protection already. Is the bulkhead new work? If it is, that might be an issue. The inspector may be less sympathetic if you had a chance to install the barrier and just got the construction sequencing wrong. I'd ask the inspector what they think before installing the vapor barrier. Don't want to have to tear it out because the inspector has a specific way he wants the condition mitigated.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:25
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I've got a couch that I spend a LOT of time on these days, and I've had to put extra pillows in (like a bed sleeping kind of pillow, behind my back, and a throw cushion between two of the couch cushions ) because I got the couch second hand and a lot of the stuffing is just, flattened. I keep on thinking "I should buy some couch stuffing and re stuff the couch cushions or something?" They're not made of foam, they're made of some kind of stuffing that I can replace entirely or add more to. Any ideas/recommendations?
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Dec 8, 2020 22:40
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corgski posted:I called it a lot of names I like to be called but as far as I can tell it's not any looser. TSP soak is happening now. You’re talking about the large nut that you need a specialty spanner wrench to remove, after you remove the agitator bolt top, correct? I ran into this exact same problem a few days ago while trying to remove the drum from our old whirlpool. I first tried hammering against a pry bar slotted in a tooth after a quick penetrant spritz, but no dice. However, my old Ridgid basin wrench was *just* large enough to grab the jaws on two of the ridges, and once I had it good and grabbed, I was able to tap it free quite easily with a hammer. Getting the force to go around and not inward is the key. My next brightest idea was to use my clamptite tool to secure a sacrificial dowel rod into one of the teeth so I could have a protruding ridge to tap against. I was really hoping a plumbers wrench would do it, but the 8” was too small to fit around the nut, and the 10” was too big to fit inside the drum. E: nvm, different agitator and completely different pita Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Dec 8, 2020 |
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Dec 8, 2020 22:42
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redreader posted:I've got a couch that I spend a LOT of time on these days, and I've had to put extra pillows in (like a bed sleeping kind of pillow, behind my back, and a throw cushion between two of the couch cushions ) because I got the couch second hand and a lot of the stuffing is just, flattened. I keep on thinking "I should buy some couch stuffing and re stuff the couch cushions or something?" They're not made of foam, they're made of some kind of stuffing that I can replace entirely or add more to. Any ideas/recommendations? If you can unzip the cushion covers, you can replace it with some decent high density foam. Measure your cushions and just google high density foam cushions and there’s tons of places you can buy it. A special hotwire tool or electric kitchen knife works alright for cutting foam to fit inside the cushions. If you don’t want to go that way you can buy polyester batting and cram more stuffing in as well. Foam is nicer imho but more expensive.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:49
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corgski posted:I called it a lot of names I like to be called but as far as I can tell it's not any looser. TSP soak is happening now. I'd bear against the head of the bolt, un thread it most of the way, you only need a tiny bit of movement with the puller. Getting purchase with the puller jaws might be more difficult, I was thinking on the three ridges that stand period of that plate.
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Dec 8, 2020 22:59
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OSU_Matthew posted:If you can unzip the cushion covers, you can replace it with some decent high density foam. Measure your cushions and just google high density foam cushions and there’s tons of places you can buy it. A special hotwire tool or electric kitchen knife works alright for cutting foam to fit inside the cushions. I know how handy I am: not at all. I bought some polyester batting. Thank you!
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Dec 9, 2020 00:54
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Tezer posted:In the grand scheme of things, this isn't a big deal. It would get flagging and stuck in a 'things not to do' powerpoint presentation at a building science conference, but it's hard for me to figure out a gross failure that could occur by having the vapor barrier not quite correct in a small area like that bulkhead. I assume this is a basement, so that bulkhead is right around grade. Is there insulation behind it? Vapor permeance through closed cell is a relationship controlled by thickness, so even if you don't have two inches you have some protection already. Thanks a bunch this is very helpful. Bulkhead is not new thankfully. It is in a basement and at grade. The portion of wall behind them are spray foamed, as are the joist bays above (to the degree there was access). I figure yeah like, most of the wall has the needed 2" it's of course at the studs it's an issue. One thing I was thinking about is if insulating that run of duct would help with the idea that the warmth is kept away from any cold back there. I'll run it by the inspector and see what he says. Related question I've not yet been able to get answered: will acoustical sealant safely stick to spray foam? I know some types of adhesives don't work with foams. Edit: just double checked the TDS and it does say it's compatible with foam board... Not the same but it gives me some hope! Jenkl fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 02:58
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HycoCam posted:You have stain grade casings and jambs ('cause they're stained I just wanted to second all this, because it's really not that hard, and at the end you'll have a nicer door and trim. I used this $32.99 trim router and mix n match of hinge templates and a door lock installation kit from whatever was in stock at Lowe's. Actually, I got A LOT of use out of that cheap router and (ab)used it with jobs it was not at all intended for - handy tool to have.
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Dec 9, 2020 04:41
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Jenkl posted:One thing I was thinking about is if insulating that run of duct would help with the idea that the warmth is kept away from any cold back there. If you can stick more insulation between the duct and the exterior wall (ie - between the duct and the spray foam) that can only help. I wouldn't insulate the duct though - as long as it's inside the conditioned envelope (which it is) insulating it isn't going to move the needle very much. If you want to improve the performance of the duct work tape or mastic on the seams is the low hanging fruit. I think your installer did this, but it never hurts to double check and see if there are any missing areas before you seal it all up. The common issue with adhesives and foams are that some adhesives melt foam. So if you aren't sure, just test it on a small piece.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:54
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The sealing you see is all me. Had to go out of my way to even find mastic - apparently it is not common in Canada everybody here just uses tape. My inspector got back to me real quick and said there's no problem here bringing the vapour barrier in front of the ducts. Thanks for pushing me to just ask. Forget how that can be the straightforward solution sometimes.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:58
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Do washing machine drain hose extensions work or is that just asking for a leak?
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Dec 9, 2020 17:48
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