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Speaking of hand planes, I impulse bought some old hand planes from a local auction without really checking to see if they were any good. Here's what I ended up with, I suspect at least one (if not all) are probably not worth messing with: 1st plane:   2nd plane:  3rd plane (this one looks the least bad but I'm actually most suspicious of it):   ...this is the blade:  The handle is sort of faux-wood plastic. Thoughts? I didn't spend a ton of money on these so it's nbd if they're not worth messing with. p.s. please excuse the insane wood floors, this is a 1930s house where the owner (landlord) put some sort of awful varnish on it 10-15 years ago and it's peeling up something fierce
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Dec 9, 2020 20:13
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I almost like restoring planes more than actual woodworking. It's fun to take something old and beat up and make it look nearly factory fresh. Restoring planes can be done with sandpaper, a hard flat surface, some vinegar, paint stripper and a rattle can of rust paint. If the original handles are toast then add a drill, paper, pencil, coping saw and a lathe.   This is an example of one that was 99% rust and required replacement handles and a ton of scraping, painting and sanding to even make half presentable, and actually functional. I think I spend at least 4 hours running it across various grits of sandpaper on top of a table saw before I was happy with the sole. Blistex fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 20:45
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Careful.
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Blistex posted:It's fun to take something old and beat up and make it look nearly factory fresh. Restoring planes can be done with sandpaper, a hard flat surface, some vinegar, paint stripper and a rattle can of rust paint. If the original handles are toast then add a drill, paper, pencil, coping saw and a lathe. This is exactly the project I'm in the middle of doing. I turned the walnut knob last week as practice, as I'm not the most experienced turner. Danhenge posted:Speaking of hand planes, I impulse bought some old hand planes from a local auction without really checking to see if they were any good. Here's what I ended up with, I suspect at least one (if not all) are probably not worth messing with: Is that a little Miller Falls (no16 or something similar)? I have one of those and loving love it. To tell if a block plane is any good (compare plane #1 to plane #2 in your list) is if it has the following: Depth adjustment throat adjustment lateral adjustment without those, I wouldn't bother. Tuning #2 might be a loving pain and fiddly to set. I can't even comment on #3.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:12
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Cannon_Fodder posted:This is exactly the project I'm in the middle of doing. I turned the walnut knob last week as practice, as I'm not the most experienced turner. Thanks. Under the blade and adjustment thing (frog?) it's got a 306-16, googling looks like it's a Miller Falls from the 1938-1971 run, probably an older model because it doesn't have the branding.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:21
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OK here's the full saga:Leperflesh posted:Here we have a rather more decrepit little plane: Leperflesh posted:I've disassembled the small plane with the broken tote and the illegible iron: Leperflesh posted:According to the plane identifier thingy on woodandshop.com, this may be a Type 4 Stanley Bailey Hand Plane (1874-1884). This is based on the shape of the frog receiver, lack of markings of number or patent, recessed back of the lever cap, and lack of a raised ring around the knob receiver screw hole. Leperflesh posted:I'm trying to alternate between restoring tools and making projects with the tools. So with my cat shelf done, I cleaned up a bit and now I'm working on an old Stanley #2 plane from probably the late 1800s, although #2s are harder to date. Plane iron says Stanley Rule & Level Co., 1 9/16" wide which is close enough to the spec 1 5/8" width that I think it's right. So, this plane was an interesting research project, but it was also an interesting restoration. Here were all the parts in original condition:   Cleaning up the iron let me identify its vintage. At various times Stanley changed the stamp/logo, and you can look this stuff up (see the quoted posts above).  I wound up cleaning up and repairing the original tote. To keep the two pieces aligned, and to add strength, I went through my scrap metal and found a small piece of brass tubing with an OD that was exactly the same as the ID of the hole through the tote.  Then I used scrap wood to build a halfassed jig to clamp it in the right way during gluing.   You can never have too many clamps. I joined the rosewood tote with epoxy. Wood glue might have sufficed, but I wanted the wood to also bond with the brass rod. I didn't photograph the rest of the restoration, but it's mostly just sanding off the rust on the body, and then flattening it, and cleaning up all the other parts. I used little dabs of citristrip to remove the paint spatter, lightly oiled the moving parts, and used some Brasso to help clean up the brass parts. I also wound up grinding out that weird back bevel on the iron, because I wanted the iron flat across anyway and I was already grinding out the roundedness that the previous owner had put into it. Here's the finished result. The photos are poor, and it's already a little dusty because I've actually been using it:     Also kindly ignore the disastrous mess on the table, I'm mid-project and my workspace always looks like that. You'll probably notice there's still some pitting, some patina, a little rust here and there. That's intentional. With my restorations I am never looking to create a brand-new look; I am looking to restore functionality and longevity only. This plane is now fully functional, and in fact I'm finding it an absolute joy to use. The tote is a bit small, so my grip usually involves holding the body in some way along with the tote; and it has no lateral adjustment lever even though the frog has the casting void for one. Despite that, it does a better job than a block plane at small woodworking jobs, but is much lighter than a #4 smoothing plane at smoothing. When I'm trying to just finish off a surface of a small piece I've ripped, run a little chamfer along an edge, or level out the round I just put into something by excessive sanding, this little #2 keeps landing in my hands as the tool I want. It's as narrow as a block plane but has a little more mass, a longer sole, and the high angle of a smoothing plane. The rosewood came out slightly darker than I'd intended after treating it to several coats of BLO. Sanding down the knob left the brass nut a hair proud of the wood. I'm not entirely happy with the small leftover pits on the sole, although they haven't affected function so far as I've noticed. But this plane was $15, and I put probably three or four hours into restoring it, and now I have a tool I'd happily pay $100 for, and I learned a lot with this resto, so it's a good result!
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Dec 9, 2020 21:24
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If one of you felt inclined to fix one up and post it in the "HCH Buy/Sell/Trade: Harbor Freight with more cheeto dust" thread at a fair price I am sure it will sell pretty quick.
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Dec 9, 2020 21:40
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Danhenge posted:Speaking of hand planes, I impulse bought some old hand planes from a local auction without really checking to see if they were any good. Here's what I ended up with, I suspect at least one (if not all) are probably not worth messing with: I have turned a $12 lovely Stanley block plane into a functional tool, basically by sharpening the iron, flattening the sole, and then spending ages adjusting the iron (with the one and only screw, which clamps the iron down) and then just never adjusting it. But I have to re-do that every time it needs to be sharpened. It was actually the first plane I owned and the first I cleaned up, and was useful as a project for learning to do that with something I didn't care about ruining. What you have there is considerably better than that plane I did. It has at least some of the adjustments you want to have. It's quite rusty looking but that could be all surface rust. I would take it apart and inspect the iron and parts, and if nothing is bent or broken or badly pitted or chipped, go for it. It'll be a useful low-angle block plane. quote:2nd plane: This is a Stanley #102. These are small, cheap, simple block planes. They're very cheap and available on ebay for around $15 or $20, and not really worth that. That said, it only has three parts and they're easy to fix up, so it's a low-effort cleanup if you want to do it. Note that IIRC the cheeks on these planes aren't flat so you can't shoot with it, although I don't think anyone usually shoots with a block plane anyway. It appears to be missing the iron, though. Is there a blade somewhere? quote:3rd plane (this one looks the least bad but I'm actually most suspicious of it): This is a cheapo Craftsman plane that is not worth fixing up in my opinion. They're sold for like house carpenters to throw in a toolbox for occasional use where they don't mind leaving toolmarks, and have that four-way blade so they can be sharpened less often, at the expense of being really pretty crap at their job. e. If you do decide to fix it up, replace that iron with a normal single-piece one and it'll behave better. But I'd not want to put real effort into reconditioning a plane with plastic handles. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Dec 9, 2020 |
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Dec 9, 2020 21:55
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Also super helpful. I got the whole lot for ~$24 so I don't feel too bad, although it looks like I still may have overspent a little. Also does not help that I could have just not bought the craftsman and then I would've spent ~$12 on the other two. Oh well! The Stanley 102 does not have an iron, it came as is. I feel a little silly but I knew I didn't know what I was doing and it felt low-risk. Is there a low cost option for replacing the iron, or should I just give it up for lost? I'm not feeling super attached to it. The other block plane seems like it might be ok? I'll take it apart later and get some better pictures of the rest of it. The only real concern is that the little mouth adjuster under the finger rest is completely stuck. The edge of the blade feels sharp and looks kind of shiny, so it might have been in use not that long ago.
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Dec 9, 2020 22:37
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Ok, I promise I will post hot, hot planer pics when I get the chance. However, I have a question about wood glue in low temperature: right now my shop is unheated and the temperature can drop below freezing overnight. Should I store my wood glue in doors? Will the temperature damage it? What point does glue stop setting properly?
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Dec 9, 2020 22:41
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I just got hired part time at a custom furniture workshop. Any hot tips for someone that's only been inside highschool shops? Besides "don't gently caress it up?"
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Dec 9, 2020 22:50
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I just got hired part time at a custom furniture workshop. Any hot tips for someone that's only been inside highschool shops? Besides "don't gently caress it up?" If you wear glasses, get a pair of safety goggles that fit over them comfortably.
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Dec 9, 2020 22:54
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I just got hired part time at a custom furniture workshop. Any hot tips for someone that's only been inside highschool shops? Besides "don't gently caress it up?" First impressions are important. In order to assert dominance be sure that the first tool you use is the largest hand saw in the shop.
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Dec 9, 2020 23:09
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Cpt_Obvious posted:If you wear glasses, get a pair of safety goggles that fit over them comfortably. Dropped $100 on a prescription set and I wear my glasses about 20x more often now that I don't need to wear two sets of glasses on top of each other.
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Dec 9, 2020 23:16
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I just got hired part time at a custom furniture workshop. Any hot tips for someone that's only been inside highschool shops? Besides "don't gently caress it up?" Listen, watch, try not to have too many opinions about how things *should* be done. Pretty normal junior-staff stuff. Try to ask *why* things are done the way they are both: In a way that doesn't come off as "I have a better way." And When people aren't in a big rush, so they can explain the thinking and experiences behind their methods.
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Dec 9, 2020 23:19
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Most of my duties will be assembly and sanding. I'm excited to learn how to round edges to a specified degree and be consistent. The biggest tool seems to be the CNC machine so I'll make sure to use that without any knowledge of how.
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Dec 9, 2020 23:43
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Leperflesh, that right there is a very handsome plane. I wish beautiful old ones like that came up more often in my area.
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Dec 9, 2020 23:52
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Danhenge posted:Also super helpful. You can get replacement blades for that 102... but you can buy a used 102 with a blade for the same price as a new, replacement blade. And in both cases you might pay more for shipping than for the tool itself. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=stanley+102+plane&_sacat=0 I'm seeing around $5-$15 for a used vintage plane in OK condition (plus shipping)... or like $10, just for a blade. You'll also need to inspect that 102 and pay attention to vintage, because (I don't know about 102s specifically but) many planes went through design changes over the decades and blades for them weren't always universal across all of those iterations. e, the stuck mouth on the other plane isn't a big deal. It's probably jammed with sawdust. You'll disassemble it completely for cleaning and when you clean it the mouth will probably come free. Take pics and post if you get stuck.
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Dec 9, 2020 23:53
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Cpt_Obvious posted:Ok, I promise I will post hot, hot planer pics when I get the chance. yep, store your glue indoors
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Dec 10, 2020 00:30
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Leperflesh posted:
Cpt_Obvious posted:Ok, I promise I will post hot, hot planer pics when I get the chance. Bi-la kaifa posted:I just got hired part time at a custom furniture workshop. Any hot tips for someone that's only been inside highschool shops? Besides "don't gently caress it up?" Get ready to sand alot. Alot. Get good at sanding, and get used to sanding-it's just part of life. Nobody likes doing it, but you have to do it and do it well (and you can still gently caress stuff up sanding). If you get good and fast at it, your boss will love you (but you might be stuck sanding for forever). Taping your fingertips will help keep your fingerprints intact if you are doing a bunch of hand sanding, lol. Don't sand cross grain and don't skip grits and you'll be fine. Ear protection is as important as eye protection. There's a whole lot of different ways to do most things and woodworking is no different. It's good to show that you have an interest in this stuff outside of work and are learning about it independently, but do it the way the shop usually does it-they probably have a reason. Being curious is good, but there's also deadlines and there isn't always time to explain. This depends a ton on the culture of the shop-some places it's much more a 'how would you do this' and some places it's 'my way or the highway.' The custom furniture world is probably a little more open to different ideas, especially when they get commissioned to do weird stuff they haven't done before. If they do their own finishing, try to learn more about that. Woodworkers who can cut wood and sand wood AND match color and spray finish are a very valuable asset to any shop.
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Dec 10, 2020 01:10
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Ear protection is as important as eye protection. and, given that it's sanding, respiratory protection is probably even more important
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Dec 10, 2020 01:44
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I'm already hearing impaired, I'd like to keep what I have left. The shop does it all, including shipping to local clients. The guy told me to just listen and do everything carefully and I should be ok. It's a small shop and apparently they're crazy busy so it'll be a steep learning curve on how not to gently caress up the sanding. I think if I'm getting paid by the hour to do it now I'll be less motivated to do a half assed job like I would on my home projects.
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Dec 10, 2020 02:11
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Bloody posted:and, given that it's sanding, respiratory protection is probably even more important Seconding this. I can't work with walnut or any exotic without a PAPR now because I breathed way too much of that poo poo back when we had a wood related business.
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Dec 10, 2020 03:09
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GEMorris posted:Seconding this. I can't work with walnut or any exotic without a PAPR now because I breathed way too much of that poo poo back when we had a wood related business. It's easy to think of good dust collection as a luxury one can live without, but it should probably be thought of as a safety thing really. I definitely need to do better about it especially when sanding. Maybe time to finally buy festool? I actually find the half face respirators alot more comfortable than a cloth dust mask, but in the summer they both get way too hot.
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Dec 10, 2020 03:51
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I'm already hearing impaired, I'd like to keep what I have left. Out of curiosity, what part of the country are you in? I’ve got a friend my wife knew who started up his own furniture business and he seems to be growing quite quickly. We’re in the Seattle area.
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Dec 10, 2020 04:29
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Vancouver Island, just a little more north west than Seattle.
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Dec 10, 2020 04:46
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Woodworking: the plane restoration society of something awful
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Dec 10, 2020 05:36
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McSpergin posted:Woodworking: the plane restoration society of something awful Ask, and ye shall recieve. Plane pics:    Bonus inherited router and better closeup of the bench vise:  Edit: any suggestions on sharpening gear for the handplane?
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Dec 10, 2020 05:43
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GEMorris posted:Seconding this. I can't work with walnut or any exotic without a PAPR now because I breathed way too much of that poo poo back when we had a wood related business. This doesn't get enough attention. Exposure to wood dust can cause allergies to develop even if you aren't allergic now. Cedar is the worst, but it's true for all of it. This happened to a neighbor of mine and he was forced to close down his wood shop (he does glass now).
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Dec 10, 2020 05:50
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The junk collector posted:This doesn't get enough attention. Exposure to wood dust can cause allergies to develop even if you aren't allergic now. Cedar is the worst, but it's true for all of it. This happened to a neighbor of mine and he was forced to close down his wood shop (he does glass now). Bloody posted:and, given that it's sanding, respiratory protection is probably even more important What sort of protection should I be looking into? Just a basic face mask or more?
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Dec 10, 2020 05:50
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Cpt_Obvious posted:What sort of protection should I be looking into? Just a basic face mask or more? Half-mask respirator with P95 or P99 filters. You can wear them with goggles and earpro, though you'll need fairly tight seals on both the mask and the goggles to avoid fogging.
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Dec 10, 2020 06:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Half-mask respirator with P95 or P99 filters. You can wear them with goggles and earpro, though you'll need fairly tight seals on both the mask and the goggles to avoid fogging. How serious should I be considering this protection? Should I stop working on any projects until I get it? I can't find any of this poo poo in stores anymore.
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Dec 10, 2020 06:01
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I assume they've got proper dust management in the shop, so yeah something like comfortable n100/p100 construction style respirator would probably be the way to go. Idk how it works in a furniture shop but in a machine shop / manufacturing environment I would expect PPE to be provided, albeit not necessarily the most comfortable variety. For example, we had like a bottomless supply of basic safety glasses and earplugs, but a lot of the full-time machinists wore their own safety glasses or headset style hearing protection or what have you Fe oh you're not the furniture shop poster are you
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Dec 10, 2020 06:02
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Bi-la kaifa posted:Vancouver Island, just a little more north west than Seattle. Awesome, not too far away then. It would have been a weird coincidence if you worked for the guy I knew.
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Dec 10, 2020 06:16
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Bloody posted:I assume they've got proper dust management in the shop, so yeah something like comfortable n100/p100 construction style respirator would probably be the way to go. Idk how it works in a furniture shop but in a machine shop / manufacturing environment I would expect PPE to be provided, albeit not necessarily the most comfortable variety. For example, we had like a bottomless supply of basic safety glasses and earplugs, but a lot of the full-time machinists wore their own safety glasses or headset style hearing protection or what have you I asked about PPE and they said they provide it but if I want something more than a paper mask I should get one. When he showed me around the other guys weren't wearing any ppe (except for the guy wearing his hearing protection) at all which is a bit concerning on account of the mask mandate but that's Vancouver Island for you.
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Dec 10, 2020 07:02
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Here's my plane family. My coworker found this at a swap meet:  It's a craftsman shoulder plane that is missing the depth guide. I haven't used this one yet. And here's all of my standard planes.  From the back to the front, left to right: 1 Stanley #7 from ebay. 2 Stanley #4 1/2 from ebay. 3 Veritas low angle jack plane from the Lee valley seconds sale. 4 Unknown Stanley block plane from my grandfather. 5 Stanley 220 from my grandfather. 6 Low angle block plane from my buddy. 7 Veritas stupid tiny plane because it is funny. They are all danger sharp, but I really need to refinish some of the older ones. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Dec 10, 2020 |
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Dec 10, 2020 13:57
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Bi-la kaifa posted:I asked about PPE and they said they provide it but if I want something more than a paper mask I should get one. When he showed me around the other guys weren't wearing any ppe (except for the guy wearing his hearing protection) at all which is a bit concerning on account of the mask mandate but that's Vancouver Island for you. That's kind of concerning. I wear a facemask when I'm doing something dusty in the woodshop. These guys don't even care about saw dust?
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Dec 10, 2020 13:58
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I don't know if it's just because they're so male-dominated, but not wanting to be seen as a pansy by wearing PPE is endemic. Not just in woodworking, but all trades. Especially with regard to things that don't immediately gently caress you up, but accumulate over time. Sensitization to wooddust, funky damage to your nervous system due to solvents, heavy metal poisoning due to welding fumes, all because wearing a respirator is too much work/make you look like a pansy/interferes with your beard. Hearing damage. hosed up eyes from squinting instead of wearing a visor during welding. All things that can be avoided if you just wear the appropriate PPE for the situation.
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Dec 10, 2020 15:06
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Just Winging It posted:I don't know if it's just because they're so male-dominated, but not wanting to be seen as a pansy by wearing PPE is endemic. Not just in woodworking, but all trades. Especially with regard to things that don't immediately gently caress you up, but accumulate over time. Sensitization to wooddust, funky damage to your nervous system due to solvents, heavy metal poisoning due to welding fumes, all because wearing a respirator is too much work/make you look like a pansy/interferes with your beard. Hearing damage. hosed up eyes from squinting instead of wearing a visor during welding. All things that can be avoided if you just wear the appropriate PPE for the situation.
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Dec 10, 2020 15:28
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Cpt_Obvious posted:How serious should I be considering this protection? Should I stop working on any projects until I get it? I can't find any of this poo poo in stores anymore. My personal list, 1. Safety Glasses - Always always always. Any time you are using a power tool (and hand tools with work under compression), too easy for something to go wrong on a one off and gently caress your eyes forever. 2. Dust mask - When sanding. If you are going to be sanding a lot, spend on a nice one because cheap ones are miserable to wear for long periods. This is less important the less sanding you do unless you have asthma or something then it goes to number 1. 3. Hearing protection - Most power tools are fine for occasional use without protection but extended use or continuous exposure absolutely needs hearing protection. CNCs, powder, and impact tools may require always having hearing protection as well as some larger industrial saws as they can cause hearing damage in short exposure. Hearing never heals, it just gets worse as damage accumulates over time. 3. Dust mask for occasional use - If you are a hobbyist sanding once in a while, and you have good ventilation, i.e. outdoors then a mask is nice to have but not critical. It takes a long time for problems to develop and you may never reach that point from occasional exposure. Spending on decent PPE is 100% worth it. It's night and day more comfortable which means you'll use it, which means it will save you when you need it instead of sitting in a box. If you wear glasses get a prescription safety set with detachable wings. Get a mask that fits. Get hearing protection that you can wear without your ears hurting after an hour.
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Dec 10, 2020 15:56
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Looking for a project to sell next year? We sold 230 of these things for $20-$30 in 3 weekends at a Christmas tree farm. One person can slap together ~ 4 an hour.
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Dec 10, 2020 16:06
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