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Boba Pearl posted:
If it’s feasible I recommend saving for a more full rebuild. Pretty much all those parts are aged out. If you upgrade cpu you also need new mobo/ram. Depending on how old it is PSU may be due for an upgrade too. Since you’re on 1080p, the CPU matters quite a lot. If you’re really gonna upgrade right now on $450 budget I’d probably start with CPU/ram/mobo.
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Dec 13, 2020 00:57
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Tremors posted:One thing I didn't think of before I ordered my parts, what's the state of factory applied thermal paste these days? I believe the cooler I ordered comes with some, but if it's worth spending a few bucks to put something better on I'm all for it. The cooler is this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087VM7HT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_UDv1FbDJ89TTA I'd get some Noctua paste anyway in case you need to reapply some.
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Dec 13, 2020 01:43
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Kingnothing posted:If it’s feasible I recommend saving for a more full rebuild. Pretty much all those parts are aged out. If you upgrade cpu you also need new mobo/ram. Depending on how old it is PSU may be due for an upgrade too. Why do I need a whole new build? I can pick up an i7-4790 for $250 The ram is still 16gb, and it's not like the hard drives need to be upgraded.
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Dec 13, 2020 01:44
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Boba Pearl posted:Why do I need a whole new build? I can pick up an i7-4790 for $250 The ram is still 16gb, and it's not like the hard drives need to be upgraded. Because spending $250 on a 6 year old processor is a very bad idea. The RAM is slow DDR3 and not 4. Your SSD is fine but also old and the new hotness is NVMe.
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Dec 13, 2020 01:48
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Boba Pearl posted:Why do I need a whole new build? I can pick up an i7-4790 for $250 The ram is still 16gb, and it's not like the hard drives need to be upgraded. An i7-4790 isn't remotely worth $250, and a locked processor just won't have the grunt to hang on. It's less powerful than the current $100 i3, for comparison.
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Dec 13, 2020 01:49
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Tremors posted:One thing I didn't think of before I ordered my parts, what's the state of factory applied thermal paste these days? I believe the cooler I ordered comes with some, but if it's worth spending a few bucks to put something better on I'm all for it. The cooler is this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087VM7HT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_UDv1FbDJ89TTA Unless you're doing stuff like de-lidding or extreme overclocking, where every degree counts, the paste that comes with the cooler should be just fine.
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Dec 13, 2020 01:56
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Alright, that makes sense, thank you. What about this for a mobo/cpu/memory combo then? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($215.88 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus PRIME A320M-K Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($58.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Team T-FORCE VULCAN TUF Gaming Allian 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($54.99 @ Amazon) with these parts I already have: Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($95.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4 GB SSC ACX 2.0 Video Card Case: Xion XON 310 MicroATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: Cooler Master V Gold V2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Boba Pearl fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 01:57
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Welp, built my rig, everything works fine except that randomly I get "no signal" blackscreen, and only resetting the PC (not the screen) fixes it. This happens under load and not, but it's consistently died in 4/4 cinebench tests I've ran. I'm suspecting fucky CPU. But this is impossible to test, guh. Any suggestions for what can be borked/how to fix?
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Dec 13, 2020 02:25
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I'm trying to do a CPU-less bios flash of an MSI B550 Tomahawk mobo so I can build a 5800x system, but I don't think it's working. I've been following the somewhat barebones instructions in the mobo manual, and also the directions given in this helpful instructional video. As far as I can tell, I am doing everything correctly - USB drive is FAT32, bios file obtained from here is renamed to MSI.ROM, and nothing is connected or installed on my mobo except for the PSU cables. When I insert the USB drive into the proper bios flash slot and press the bios flash button, it causes a red LED behind the I/O shield to light up, and causes the USB drive LED to flash briefly. The USB drive LED then turns off after a few seconds, but the red LED behind the I/O shield remains lit and solid (no flashing). There are no other LEDs on the mobo that power on, despite the video linked above showing a bright mobo LED that lights up during this process. I can only assume the bios flash is failing, but I have no idea why. I've checked over every step of this process multiple times, and have tried multiple different versions of the bios from MSI's site. I've heard this process doesn't play nicely with some USB drives, but I bought mine within the last few years so I would hope it would work fine? Does anyone have any other ideas as to what might be going on here?
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Dec 13, 2020 02:38
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Boba Pearl posted:Alright, that makes sense, thank you. Is your budget still around $450? If so I’d probably try to get a 3600 (if you can find one in MSRP), a b450/550 board, and that ram or whatever is on sale when you pull the trigger. The issue with your old ram isn’t that it’s slow, but that any CPU worth it’s cost right now requires a motherboard that uses DDR4 not DDR3. Ssd and PSU (if it’s in or near warranty) should be fine. Rhaka posted:Welp, built my rig, everything works fine except that randomly I get "no signal" blackscreen, and only resetting the PC (not the screen) fixes it. Why do you think it’s the CPU? Is audio still playing when it happens or is it a full lock? Before jumping to hardware, I’d probably start with reseats of everything, including PSU cables on both sides (except the CPU itself, cause it’s a pain in the rear end). I’d also probably just make sure all BIOS, drivers, windows, etc are up to date.
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Dec 13, 2020 02:40
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Kefit posted:I'm trying to do a CPU-less bios flash of an MSI B550 Tomahawk mobo so I can build a 5800x system, but I don't think it's working. BIOS flashes are generally super small. For some reason this process also prefers ancient drives to anything newer. It’s also super finicky and doesn’t work with random brands/drives. Even if you have an incredibly old flash drive that’s 256mb you should try that. This should be your first thing to try.
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Dec 13, 2020 02:45
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Kingnothing posted:BIOS flashes are generally super small. For some reason this process also prefers ancient drives to anything newer. It’s also super finicky and doesn’t work with random brands/drives. Even if you have an incredibly old flash drive that’s 256mb you should try that. This should be your first thing to try. Unfortunately this is the only USB drive I have on hand (I try hard these days to not hoard things I don't need anymore!). Are there any suggestions for a cheap USB drive that is known to work well with this kind of thing that I can just order off Amazon?
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Dec 13, 2020 02:51
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I'm trying to have a computer built for my brother for Christmas this year where various family members will pitch in a buy various parts. He mostly plays World of Warcraft and watches Youtube, but not much more than that. Is there a good <1000$ intro build that is worth it these days, or is the recommendation to wait for the CPU/GPU prices to normalize?
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Dec 13, 2020 02:53
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Kingnothing posted:Why do you think it’s the CPU? Audio is still playing, yeah. All the stuff that can be updated is updated. I've eliminated it being the screen (doesn't happen on another rig), and ram/gpu torture testing did nothing. But it's not affected by load, so??? Also had a fair bit of trouble installing the cpu cooler Reseating the psu stuff is probably also a good idea. I'm trying to run a SF750 in a temp ATX case with awful cable lengths, so it's all complete poo poo in there. But everything runs fine otherwise, can't see things shorting or something. Proper case in a day or two, so I'll do a bit of a rebuild then. Hope that fixes things.
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Dec 13, 2020 03:06
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Hello thread! I'm going to build a mid-spec PC for gaming, maybe try VR. I don't know where to start, maybe see what CPU/video cards are on sale at Amazon/Newegg and base a PCPartPicker build around that? Some stuff is out of stock or overpriced right now so maybe I should focus on what is available. I really don't know where to start, please point me in the right direction to go buy stuff. What country are you in? USA and want to shop online due to COVID. What are you using the system for? Gaming, VR, light video editing. What's your budget? $800-1600, whatever gets me a decent midlevel PC and monitor. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Anything you recommend. Edit: haha do I just check /r/buildapcsales/ a few times daily until I see a <$300 AMD Ryzen 5 3600? teardrop fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 03:42
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Neo_Crimson posted:Unless you're doing stuff like de-lidding or extreme overclocking, where every degree counts, the paste that comes with the cooler should be just fine. But it wont come with extra. So be very careful or just spend 10$ to have a tube thermal griz ceramic or noctua paste lying around. Repasting is also good after 2-3 years.
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Dec 13, 2020 03:51
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teardrop posted:Hello thread! I'm going to build a mid-spec PC for gaming, maybe try VR. I don't know where to start, maybe see what CPU/video cards are on sale at Amazon/Newegg and base a PCPartPicker build around that? Some stuff is out of stock or overpriced right now so maybe I should focus on what is available. I really don't know where to start, please point me in the right direction to go buy stuff. That's a really wide band for a budget, but the top end of that will be able to get you a 1440p system with few compromises. Ideally you track down an AMD 5600x CPU and a RTX 3070 GPU. PCPP has this guide for this sort of system, which talks about the some important considerations and breaks down otherwise esoteric poo poo like chipset variations. The thing lands at $1,100 before a monitor. The most obvious place to shave money will be dropping to a 3060 Ti, which will save you $100. You can still rock 1440 but may have to compromise on a setting here and there (the 3060 frankly gives more bang for the buck). You'd be able to push the pixels needed for VR either way pretty comfortably. The real problem is that supply for the key components is absolutely hosed and will be for a while yet, so you may be looking at trying to snipe a CPU/GPU then putting the rest of the system together after. Depending on your luck and availability to slam that buy button, it could be a significant delay. Boxman fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 03:53
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Boxman posted:That's a really wide band for a budget, but the top end of that will be able to get you a 1440p system with few compromises. Ideally you track down an AMD 5600x CPU and a RTX 3070 GPU. PCPP has this guide for this sort of system, which lands at $1,100 before a monitor. The most obvious place to shave money will be dropping to a 3060 Ti, which will save you $100. You can still rock 1440 but may have to compromise on a setting here and there (the 3060 frankly gives more bang for the buck). You'd be able to push the pixels needed for VR either way pretty comfortably. Thanks, budget is weird because I have money to spare but I'm also cheap as hell so it makes me really happy to go with lower-end stuff if I'm getting diminishing returns anyway. If there were great deals on the high end of my budget, or the low end was in-stock today, I would let that decide for me: I'm happy as long as I'm finding a good value and not getting gouged too badly due to supply. So you suggest buying a AMD 5600x and RTX 3070 or 3060 Ti (preferred) as soon as I see one pop up? Any other key component models I should keep an eye out for? Maybe GTX 1660 would be adequate? teardrop fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 04:10
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teardrop posted:So you suggest buying a AMD 5600x and RTX 3070 or 3060 Ti (preferred) as soon as I see one pop up? Any other key component models I should keep an eye out for? For availability, I'd hope not to spend a ton of time refreshing sites, but that reddit seems to have good (and fast-selling-out) deals centralized. That's a fine strategy. I used this discord for near real time stock alerts. I got a 3070 after a few days of following up on alerts from there (combined with working from home meaning I could act quickly). I haven't paid too close attention, since i was only in the market for a GPU upgrade, but - there's a case to be made to slow roll the CPU a little bit. Intel has their next generation chips coming out imminently. That being said, Intel's competitive edge has whittled away to effectively nothing at the budget sweet spot. It's unlikely that their equivalent chip will compete, but there's a chance. And a competitor from Intel might draw at least a few buyers away from the 5600x. As for other parts, again, I'm not sure because I wasn't in the hunt for other stuff, but I think everything else is plentiful, if a bit more expensive than they "should" be.
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Dec 13, 2020 04:17
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Kefit posted:Unfortunately this is the only USB drive I have on hand (I try hard these days to not hoard things I don't need anymore!). I just did the flash on this exact board today using one of these usb drives: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082ZGHXK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share No issues. It took about 5 minutes for the flash and then I heard the power supply cycle as the board rebooted. My CPU and other parts won't be in until next week so I'll have to wait until then to be sure it all worked, but my experience so far was as expected from video walkthroughs. Regarding other board LEDs, make sure the dipswitch is toggled to enable them. Mine was from the factory but it's worth checking. aparmenideanmonad fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 04:18
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Sitting in the Stock Informer discord and hitting the amazon links about 15 seconds after a stock alert goes out, only for nothing to be added to my cart when I hit the button. Very very frustrating!
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Dec 13, 2020 04:50
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I've been hitting them the second they show up when I can and still nothing, it feels impossible. Closest I got was one on the zotac store, I got it in my cart then the whole site ate poo poo and crashed for like 20 minutes
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Dec 13, 2020 04:55
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Ouch. I don't spend that much time online to monitor these, so I might get stuck ending up buying from an Amazon/eBay reseller or driving 90 minutes to Microcenter. Definitely will see if I can luck into any stock first!
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Dec 13, 2020 05:08
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Boba Pearl posted:Why do I need a whole new build? I can pick up an i7-4790 for $250 The ram is still 16gb, and it's not like the hard drives need to be upgraded. I got an i7 4770 and 16GB of RAM from a generous goon a little while ago for $80 shipped to drop in my old H81 ITX board that's currently powering my gaming PC; ask in SA-Mart before setting your money on fire. [edit] Also ask in the Intel thread. Another generous goon shipped me an old i5-2500K, 16GB of RAM, and motherboard for free that I used in a modest gaming PC I built for my goddaughter. Someone might have an old haswell i7 collecting dust. [edit 2] That said, since you're explicitly upgrading to play Cyberpunk, I'd hold off until you can stretch your budget a little further tbh. Seeing how the game struggles on most modern PCs atm, you'd need something way better than a haswell based CPU to make the game playable I think lol. [edit 3] My current PC is an i7 4770, 16GB RAM, and a GTX 1660 Ti. The GPU is roughly equivalent to a 1070 I think. Here's CP2077 benchmarked on a PC with similar specs to mine at the high graphics preset: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyeRHlZtSJc Lol. teagone fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 05:39
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We bought the diablo 3 expansion instead of watching our 1070s cry in cyberpunk. Im waiting on the 3080Ti to see if it overclocks better then the 3080 but I’m not expecting to get either for months. Pandemic is driving people back inside even harder lately.
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Dec 13, 2020 05:49
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spunkshui posted:We bought the diablo 3 expansion instead of watching our 1070s cry in cyberpunk. My 1070 does Ultra (no RTX) at 1080p. 
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Dec 13, 2020 05:52
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aparmenideanmonad posted:I just did the flash on this exact board today using one of these usb drives: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082ZGHXK8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Thanks for the recommendation. I asked a friend to bring me the oldest USB drive he had, but if that doesn't work then I'll grab one of these off Amazon. My friend's USB drive seemed to be working at first - mobo lights turned on, USB drive led started flashing and didn't stop. But now the USB drive led has has been flashing for over 30 minutes without stopping. From what I understand, that means the flash is still going. But I think it's only supposed to take about five minutes? I'm ok just letting it sit here for a while if needed, but something doesn't seem right here.
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Dec 13, 2020 06:29
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:My 1070 does Ultra (no RTX) at 1080p. I didnt buy a 2560x1440 144hz display for that. I can wait, it will have less bugs then anyway.
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Dec 13, 2020 06:31
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teardrop posted:Thanks, budget is weird because I have money to spare but I'm also cheap as hell so it makes me really happy to go with lower-end stuff if I'm getting diminishing returns anyway. If there were great deals on the high end of my budget, or the low end was in-stock today, I would let that decide for me: I'm happy as long as I'm finding a good value and not getting gouged too badly due to supply. That's the general idea. Everybody's on the hunt for the same parts. A good floor for the build might be a Ryzen 3600 (or i5 10400) and a 1660 Super for the GPU. I admit I'm not quite sure just how demanding VR titles are. Some brief reading makes it sound like the big thing is keeping frames smooth, so I guess I'd see what sort of benchmarks are out there with GPUs throughout the various generations.
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Dec 13, 2020 06:40
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Rhaka posted:Audio is still playing, yeah. All the stuff that can be updated is updated. Audio still playing says GPU or software to me more likely than not. Are you running a split power cable for 8-pin on the GPU? Do you have more than one display hooked? I would reseat the GPU in the PCI slot. I would also DDU the GPU driver and reinstall it. Also in such a tiny rear end poorly managed case is heat an issue? You could be punching too high in temps.
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Dec 13, 2020 09:09
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What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Gaming (Cyberpunk 2077, Death Stranding, Resident Evil 2, Control) and development (may need to run a few VMs/containers occasionally, JIT languages) What's your budget? $3000-$5000 CAD max, the lower the better though If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Leaning towards a 2 monitor setup (on monitor arms) or maybe one of those curved screens. I would like to try for 1080p 144hz or possibly better? Looking for recommendations/opinions on monitors. I'm also restricted to Wi-Fi since the router is an inconvenient room and I don't have the place wired... PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: *ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler ($112.71 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: *ASRock B550 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($169.88 @ Canada Computers) Memory: *G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($209.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($198.75 @ shopRBC) Video Card: *MSI GeForce RTX 3080 10 GB VENTUS 3X OC Video Card ($2033.04 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($165.05 @ Vuugo) Power Supply: *EVGA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($153.99 @ PC-Canada) Total: $3043.41 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-13 05:57 EST-0500 Looks like that huge price doesn't even include the Ryzen 5 since it's sold out :| e: the 3080 is usually $1k CAD Would appreciate your recommendations. Thanks! Acer Pilot fucked around with this message at 12:29 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 12:08
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Yeah without the GPU that's a $1000 CAD box (plus the 5600X), you're just being shown Amazon scalper prices
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Dec 13, 2020 12:55
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teardrop posted:Ouch. I don't spend that much time online to monitor these, so I might get stuck ending up buying from an Amazon/eBay reseller or driving 90 minutes to Microcenter. Definitely will see if I can luck into any stock first! Before doing this, check this unofficial Microcenter Discord to make sure supplies are healthy enough that you don't drive all that way just to strike out. When I was shopping, people were queueing an hour before the store opened to hope for stock, which usually arrived around 11 AM. Apparently now, though, my store was able to get enough 5600x stock to last into the evening. I didn't realize you have access to a Microcenter. Depending how down that drive gets you, it may be worth doing a lot - or all - of your shopping with them, for the stuff where you have a choice of retailer. They'll price match pretty happily and you don't have to stress about having a $500 component sitting outside your door. They also give a nice little discount when you bundle a CPU and motherboard. Boxman fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 13:58
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Kingnothing posted:Audio still playing says GPU or software to me more likely than not. I don't think it's the temps--the side panel is off (can't fit in the PSU otherwise), and while the CPU hits 90ish under torture test load the GPU stays below 80. And the signal loss happens with/without load. It's a 3080 FE with 2 seperate 8-pin cables (not the same one!) feeding into that weird 12 pin connector. I've DDU'd the drivers, redone the power cabling throughout, and reseated the GPU. Let's see if this helps! UPDATE: It did not. Waiting for new case tomorrow-ish to do a more thorough rebuild and see where things are at then. Sigh. Rhaka fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 14:13
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Funso Banjo posted:Ah, that’s clearly my fault, I missed it in a rush because 3600’s have been completely out of stock for about a week. As far as I know OEM just means you don't get the normal full retail box with cooler (OEMs probably source their own anyway) and possibly different warranty terms depending on how things work in your country. It should not be any problem with the part itself.
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Dec 13, 2020 15:14
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Im sure a bunch of us have a growing pile of stock coolers, if anyone needs a Wraith Stealth or whatever the gently caress just PM me and pay shipping. Also always have thermal paste on hand, I am using the same tube from Radioshack from like 2005 as long as it's stored well. Or you can get 1 off syringes in a 5 pack from ebay. I have an incredible knack for loving it up (like putting the cooler on so it blocks a RAM slot) or getting a wonderful thumbprint right on the perfectly applied factory paste. Also just as an aside gently caress those heatsinks with thermal tape, thermal adhesive goop for me only now. If you are re-applying a cooler do not take the processor out. Just don't take the processor out if you don't need to, your life will be hell if you get any goop on the socket.
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Dec 13, 2020 15:24
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Do you think prices are so hosed right now due to Xmas? Maybe the scalpers will cool off in 2 weeks.
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Dec 13, 2020 16:24
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teardrop posted:Do you think prices are so hosed right now due to Xmas? Maybe the scalpers will cool off in 2 weeks. I wouldn't bet on it. As long as there's a margin to be made, they'll be there.
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Dec 13, 2020 16:34
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teardrop posted:Do you think prices are so hosed right now due to Xmas? Maybe the scalpers will cool off in 2 weeks. Its been bad for months in the pc buying space. Even things like D15 coolers get sold out and scalped on amazon. I don't expect things to get normal till the vaccine starts rolling out to the general public and people start thinking about other things to spend money on.
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Dec 13, 2020 16:37
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spunkshui posted:Its been bad for months in the pc buying space. Thanks, good to know. Some people seem optimistic so I plan to keep an eye out for a RTX 3060Ti/3070, plus a Ryzen 5600x/3600, for a week or so. But I'm not counting on it because I actually saw a 3070 Discord alert in real time and Amazon still didn't work out for me! Otherwise I'll be planning an in-stock parts build for my midlevel gaming PC, if it isn't good for VR hopefully I can upgrade that later. PCPartPicker suggested this: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-10400 2.9 GHz 6-Core Processor ($168.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.14 CFM CPU Cooler ($31.30 @ Amazon) Motherboard: *Gigabyte B460M DS3H AC Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon) Memory: *ADATA XPG Z1 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($54.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial P5 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($300.74 @ Office Depot) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *EVGA B5 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.69 @ Newegg) Total: $894.68 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-13 12:58 EST-0500 Does that look decent for what's in stock? Should I go with the 10700K, and will I want a better cooler or anything for it? Any other reasonable improvements given what's in stock?
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Dec 13, 2020 19:08
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