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Clayton Bigsby posted:Can't you just rip out the tub and get a shower stall big enough to cover the area where it was? You should be able to get away with doing that for a couple of grand at most. Not the nicest solution but if you're working on a budget... I've seen some huge loving models so should be possible to find one that covers the whole area. Again, the drain is in the wrong spot for any of those, so are the supply lines, and that tile on the wall is going to be problematic. There aren't really any reasonable solutions to this that don't involve a plumber and some amount of tile work. Minimizing that so you don't have to retile the entire floor or match it is a good starting point, but that's just one of the many small expenses that add up to this job being something to save for when you're ready to gut that bathroom to the studs and start over again. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 14, 2020 |
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Dec 14, 2020 20:32
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That looks more like a time machine than a shower, so perhaps they can go back to when the house was being built and change the layout.
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Dec 14, 2020 20:35
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Network42 posted:This is the tub in question: I’m so ridiculously jealous... I’ve been scheming on how I’d be able to put a tub like this in. My current solution is just move out and buy a new house. I get why you’d want an upstairs shower, but man, you’re really giving up such a luxury for it. At the amount of time, expense, and hassle this will be, all for what is effectively a downgrade imho, I’d personally just put up with walking downstairs to shower. Just my unsolicited input
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Dec 14, 2020 20:40
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Motronic posted:Again, the drain is in the wrong spot for any of those, so are the supply lines, and that tile on the wall is going to be problematic. There aren't really any reasonable solutions to this that don't involve a plumber and some amount of tile work. Minimizing that so you don't have to retile the entire floor or match it is a good starting point, but that's just one of the many small expenses that add up to this job being something to save for when you're ready to gut that bathroom to the studs and start over again. Granted I am not familiar with the US models, but ones I can get here have a flexible drain hose so the drain can be located pretty much anywhere underneath the footprint (the "tub" has a decent amount of clearance below it), and the water can be solved pretty easily as well. Remove the tub, stick this where it stood, leave the rest of the tile as-is and accept that it won't be as visually pleasing as a proper remodel but perhaps something to live with for a few years until there's room in the budget for one. The supply lines for the existing tub have got to be from the floor or the wall, and either can be dealt with if you are willing to get a bit creative.
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Dec 14, 2020 21:24
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Motronic posted:...r when you're ready to gut that bathroom to the studs and start over again. Literally the first project we'd planned for our house when we moved in 2013. Then the master bath's shower leaked, then the basement flooded, then ...
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Dec 15, 2020 03:33
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We also planned to redo a bathroom first and then and then and then... heh. Finally working on it, though, and it's going well!
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Dec 15, 2020 04:48
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My corner tub story is a home owner deciding he wanted to change up his bathroom on the spot with the site foreman. Ran out to Home Depot and bought a corner tub and changed up the bathroom layout... The short term problem was a long drain run with bad venting that resulted in hearing the toilet being flushed through the tub drain. The long term problem came when the owner decided he wanted to sink the tub a couple of inches and surround it with rocks... Wait...wrong story... But similar--the corner tub was placed under a window for a great view. Under the window was a $10,000 12' door with a standard header. Anyhow fast forward to I don't know what--but it seems the tub got loaded up and four adults climbed into it. Didn't go through the floor. But hosed up tile work in the bathroom and the wall and ceiling below. I think it was $25,000 to tear apart the bathroom and get rid of the tub or $15,000 to fix the damage and use an LVL header. (They went with the LVL header repair...)
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Dec 15, 2020 21:53
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Granted I am not familiar with the US models, but ones I can get here have a flexible drain hose so the drain can be located pretty much anywhere underneath the footprint Finally, the US can laugh at lovely European construction techniques. No flexible drain pipes here, except for those unpermitted homeowner specials for under the sink.
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Dec 15, 2020 22:01
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Has anyone here ever ordered a custom size solid shower pan? I'm redoing my small bathroom in the spring which has one of those corner shower stalls in it, which I'd like to just remove and replace with a pan that fits the width of the nook it's in. I looked at the standard available sizes on Lowes/HD for reference and it's a bit in between. The other option being getting one made but I'd prefer a solid pan if possible.
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Dec 15, 2020 22:22
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Has anyone here ever ordered a custom size solid shower pan? I don't blame you for wanting a solid pan, but I've got no idea where you'd find one. Perhaps get one made at a welding/machine shop? Otherwise, for odd sizes the Schulter pans are great. Yes, I know lots of us push a lot of Kerdi poo poo and then it devolves into debates about having to mix up both modified and unmodified grout, etc. but the poo poo works. https://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/showers Yes, it's expensive. Yes it's labor intensive. But when done properly it's really really good stuff. That's why it costs that much and has very specific install methods.
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Dec 15, 2020 23:12
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B-Nasty posted:Finally, the US can laugh at lovely European construction techniques. No flexible drain pipes here, except for those unpermitted homeowner specials for under the sink. It might be because bathrooms here are normally sealed wetrooms, so if the flexible drain from shower the breaks it's only going to leak onto the wetroom floor and drain into the same floor drain anyway. Not ideal, of course, but not a disaster either. Many showers don't even have a base, you just stand on the floor and the water drains into the floor drain, and even a cabinet or curtain around it isn't universal. VVV Yeah 
Darkrenown fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Dec 16, 2020 |
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Dec 15, 2020 23:29
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Darkrenown posted:It might be because bathrooms here are normally sealed wetrooms, so if the flexible drain from the breaks it's only going to leak onto the wetroom floor and drain into the same floor drain anyway. Not ideal, of course, but not a disaster either. Many showers don't even have a base, you just stand on the floor and the water drains into the floor drain, and even a cabinet or curtain around it isn't universal. Sweden? I rather like that setup. As well as the external supply lines to things.
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Dec 15, 2020 23:32
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Darkrenown posted:It might be because bathrooms here are normally sealed wetrooms, so if the flexible drain from shower the breaks it's only going to leak onto the wetroom floor and drain into the same floor drain anyway. Not ideal, of course, but not a disaster either. Many showers don't even have a base, you just stand on the floor and the water drains into the floor drain, and even a cabinet or curtain around it isn't universal. It's worth however pointing out that the standards and methods for "wetroom" construction have changed a number of times and not necessarily for the better. There was some test a decade or so ago where they had professionals install all the different types of barriers available and I think something like 75-80% didn't hold up properly afterwards. I redid a half bath in my old house, the requirements there was for the barrier to cover the floor and I think 10-15cm up the walls. Used the stuff from Casco and it was a loving pain in the rear end to work with since the adhesive set so quick you had seconds to get the material in place. But generally it's a good setup if you have a competent installer and the right stuff. We had a "shower corner" in the old house that just had a couple swinging glass doors keeping the spray from going all over the place. Assuming you have the correct slope towards the drain(s) and a decent threshold not too many terrible things can happen either.
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Dec 16, 2020 20:27
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Motronic posted:I don't blame you for wanting a solid pan, but I've got no idea where you'd find one. Perhaps get one made at a welding/machine shop? I don't think there's really a problem with the standard custom method of (Mortar bed + PVC liner + vapor barrier and backerboard) when done correctly either. Schluter pans are also great, but do note that with both the traditional system and schluter system, errors could lead to long term issues with the shower space. Doing it either way will take time, but I've seen both in different custom builds.
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Dec 17, 2020 00:06
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ntan1 posted:I don't think there's really a problem with the standard custom method of (Mortar bed + PVC liner + vapor barrier and backerboard) when done correctly either. There definitely isn't, but the Schulter system is a lot easier to get "right" in regards to slope. I don't do just shower bases for a living so I find it to be a nice bit of safety to make sure things are going in the directions they should be.
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Dec 17, 2020 00:26
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The PO did a poor paint job and it's bubbling up in spots. It's drywall. Do I just sand this poo poo down to the mud and start over? I've never fixed paint on drywall before.
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Dec 20, 2020 06:16
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If it's not the moisture type of bubbling, usually the two causes are either not cleaning off the surface before painting or not priming the surface. Sanding and then re-priming/painting is the only way to really fix this... just note that the sanding is extremely time consuming.
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Dec 20, 2020 06:56
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Yeah it's like midway up an interior wall with no mechanicals in it, I'm confident it was just poor prep (famous last words, I'm sure). There's a lot of bad paint elsewhere in the house. Stuff with uneven coverage, heavy brush marks, paint drips, that sort of thing. Same deal, sand it flat, prime, and paint? Would you TSP before priming?
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Dec 20, 2020 07:57
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ntan1 posted:If it's not the moisture type of bubbling, usually the two causes are either not cleaning off the surface before painting or not priming the surface. Why not just borrow/rent one of these? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-4-7-Amp-Corded-8-7-8-in-Drywall-Sander-with-13-ft-Long-Dust-Collection-Hose-7800/100609443 I own a similar one (renovated two houses from the ground up so it's seen some use) and it's a breeze to use. Obviously the dust evac won't catch all the particles, but it makes a massive difference there too.
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Dec 20, 2020 11:03
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Obviously an electric sander will help, but the problem is that once drywall is painted, painting naturally makes sanding more difficult... especially if you are using a high quality paint.
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Dec 20, 2020 20:02
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I'm not sure this is the right thread for this, but maybe somebody could point me in the right direction if it isn't? I found out today that somebody broke into my garage. It's one that's part of a condo complex that was converted from apartments, and the garages are detached, with the garage door being the only entrance. So, it's got one of those little locks that hooks up to the opener's emergency release cord. It looks like whoever broke in picked that lock (and seems to have broken it in the process) and used it to open the door. So, I need to replace the lock, but . . . are there any that aren't complete garbage? I realize that there's only so much security you can have in one of these things, but is there anything that's even a mild step up from whatever the cheapest option at Home Depot is?
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Dec 21, 2020 01:54
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An automatic door is pretty easy to defeat. I have one of these and there's so many attack vectors that I can think of. 1. Drilling out the cheap bolts 2. A screwdriver and a hammer would probably kill the lock. 3. Just cutting around it with a rotary or multi tool. And pulling on it. Even without the lock a well placed drill hole and fishing around with a hanger can defeat moat automatic doors with an emergency release. poo poo you can get through most garage doors with just a hanger / flat bar if you practice enough and they're not built in ways to prevent this.
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Dec 21, 2020 03:07
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tater_salad posted:An automatic door is pretty easy to defeat. We literally have a specialized "slim jim" on every goddamn fire truck to pull the release on garage doors with zero damage. It's how we get into housese with automatic alarm systems when no one is home or reachable without breaking poo poo. It's why I leave the "man door" from my attached garage unlocked when we're away and the alarm is armed. You want a "garage door" that is reasonably secure? (and I mean takes enough time and makes enough noise to be a deterrent) Look at the steel rollup doors with slide locks that are on every last storage place you've ever seen.
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Dec 21, 2020 03:11
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Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. At least I know I wasn't missing anything, I guess. Thanks!
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Dec 21, 2020 05:26
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Motronic posted:We literally have a specialized "slim jim" on every goddamn fire truck to pull the release on garage doors with zero damage. It's how we get into housese with automatic alarm systems when no one is home or reachable without breaking poo poo. It's why I leave the "man door" from my attached garage unlocked when we're away and the alarm is armed. How do you guys determine if the house has an automatic alarm system?
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Dec 21, 2020 05:54
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Do you really not have a tilt sensor on your garage door? Ima take a guess and say you're the sort whose garage contents is worth almost as much as the rest of the contents of your house and you'd rather it didn't walk away.Hed posted:How do you guys determine if the house has an automatic alarm system? Where I live you have to register your system with the city if you want actual emergency service response. Also generally those systems come with stickers and signs advertising the system in the hope that random thieves gently caress off to an easier target instead of breaking a window, some people just buy the signs and skip actually getting the system.
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Dec 21, 2020 06:19
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Motronic posted:We literally have a specialized "slim jim" on every goddamn fire truck to pull the release on garage doors with zero damage. It's how we get into housese with automatic alarm systems when no one is home or reachable without breaking poo poo. It's why I leave the "man door" from my attached garage unlocked when we're away and the alarm is armed. Some day I will replace my lovely sliding garage door with a proper hinged, double door. Probably one I make myself from wood. I have zero use for an automatic door and they take a lot of space in the ceiling on the inside. In addition to all these issues.
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Dec 21, 2020 08:14
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Elem7 posted:Do you really not have a tilt sensor on your garage door? Ima take a guess and say you're the sort whose garage contents is worth almost as much as the rest of the contents of your house and you'd rather it didn't walk away. I've got my valuables inside. I do have some nostalgic stuff in my other garage (my condo came with two of them), though, that I'd prefer not get hosed up if somebody decides to break into that one. I got lucky in that the one they broke into is all stuff that I was getting rid of anyway. I didn't realize tilt sensors were a thing, though, so I'll do that. That's at least something.
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Dec 21, 2020 08:29
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Hed posted:How do you guys determine if the house has an automatic alarm system? We wouldn't be there if it didn't - something had to call the alarm in and dispatch will say if it was from an automated alarm or an occupant calling in. Elem7 posted:Do you really not have a tilt sensor on your garage door? Ima take a guess and say you're the sort whose garage contents is worth almost as much as the rest of the contents of your house and you'd rather it didn't walk away. I have tilt sensors on the doors as a function of my home automation system, but they are not monitored by the alarm. My attached garage has two cars and chest freezer in it. Have at them. I consider it "unsecured" or "lightly secured" and I don't have to worry about garage doors being closed to arm it or being on a time as I come home and hit the button to open the garage. If I didn't live way out in the exurbs around very few people - but enough that you can see a house or two meaning you can't just got around breaking into unoccupied places at will - I might have a different opinion/security posture on the garage. All the "good stuff" that isn't in the house is in the barn. And that's got its own alarm.
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Dec 21, 2020 15:15
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Progress on the house continues, despite shortages and COVID. In fact, the project manager just told us that our windows and doors are on the ship from Europe soon to be traveling the Atlantic to arrive on site Jan 18. Actually, there are a ton of things happening right now. Electricity was hooked up and a temporary breaker box installed. Garage door choices are being finalized so they can be ordered, HVAC and water heater are being ordered, we making a few changes to the kitchen walls given that we've seen the space now and wanted few tweaks, material finalization for walls, floors, ceilings so we're ready for installation and on-site fabrication (we have a lot of built-ins going in). It is wild how your frame of money shifts when you're doing a project like this. We normally try to save as much as we can on house repairs but with this, just those tweaks to the walls and materials were another $1800 for the architect sketches, designer sketches, etc. It's wild poo poo. That said, we want this right and we only have one chance at it so these costs should save money and/or headaches down the road. Here is where we were in July:  Here's an idea of where we are today with the fireplace framing in place. This is taken from the living room/kitchen area:  Here is the office view:  And a photo of the exterior from a week or two ago. This one doesn't include the screened porch framing that happened yesterday.  It is gratifying to see these pics because the stress has been mildly crushing me. I have been doing months worth of painting and house repairs on our current house, an 1860's farmhouse in rural PA, to get it ready for sale. We were going to put it on the market next week but decided to wait a few more months. Houses are selling in a day and over sale price here right now and if we can avoid moving to an interim rental house before moving to Vermont, it would save a lot of stress and money. As usual, lots of words and pics here: http://www.vtwoods.life
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Dec 22, 2020 13:32
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he1ixx posted:And a photo of the exterior from a week or two ago. This one doesn't include the screened porch framing that happened yesterday. Glad to see an update, that's looking really nice!
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Dec 22, 2020 19:09
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Without reading blog, why do the windows and doors have to come from Europe?
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Dec 22, 2020 19:58
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PO put in this extra bathroom on a platform due to I guess not wanting to break up the floor. I want to replace this poo poo rear end stick on tile with actual ceramic in the spring, what kind of transition edge would be good here? This is where the drywall from the outside wall meets the floor of the bathroom. https://imgur.com/a/S1GaUBY Spring Heeled Jack fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Dec 22, 2020 |
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Dec 22, 2020 20:35
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:PO put in this extra bathroom on a platform due to I guess not wanting to break up the floor. https://www.lowes.com/pl/Schluter-s...xxoCynkQAvD_BwE
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Dec 22, 2020 22:09
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Hoping this is the right thread. Recently closed on a Condo, and we need some work done - a double hung window in the bathroom shower stall needs to be replaced with a smaller awning window, outside will need to be framed and shingled, and the inside will need to be framed and tiled. How do I find a contractor for this? I tried to find a word of mouth contractor, but the one referral I got was too busy (or just didn't want to) take on the project. I was checking Angie's List, and put in a few requests, but not sure how to make sure I don't get a poo poo contractor. Also, how do I set up the contractor work? I assume I'd want a contract with what exactly I am expecting to be done. It's hard to find a good category for this, since it's siding, window, carpentry, tiling. I tried General Remodeling and Handyman. I got a call from HomeAdvisor, which is a subsidiary of Angie's List, and they quoted a fixed price for "window replacement", but I know for a fact the price quote is less than what the project is going to entail, since it was only in as a window replacement. The guy on the phone said since the system said that was the price, that's the price, and if it takes longer then I won't have to pay more. But will HomeAdvisor have to pay more or does the contractor just get hosed? I assume that any contractor on HomeAdvisor is also not getting enough business from word of mouth, so will they even be a good contractor?
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Dec 22, 2020 22:48
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I tried to find a word of mouth contractor, but the one referral I got was too busy (or just didn't want to) take on the project. That's going to be every last contractor that is good enough that you'd want them doing work on your home. Is this an emergent issue that needs to be handled now because something is broken/leaking, or a desired upgrade? If the latter, you're going to want to wait until there's no longer an active global pandemic that is 1.) screwing up the building material supply chain 2.) has everyone with last summer vacation money buring a hole in their pocket while stuck in the house going "it's time to redo this thing."
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Dec 22, 2020 22:54
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Motronic posted:That's going to be every last contractor that is good enough that you'd want them doing work on your home. We were saving to redo our fence this summer and the price of fencing projects nearly doubled this year because wood is so much more expensive around here 
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Dec 22, 2020 22:56
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Is it normal to have to change motor carbon brushes in a washing machine every other year? I just had to swap the ones on my bougie Bosch for the third time. I mean, they’re a wear item, I guess, but I’ve never heard of an appliance needing them changed so regularly. It’s a mess and a pain in the rear end.
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Dec 22, 2020 23:02
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eddiewalker posted:Is it normal to have to change motor carbon brushes in a washing machine every other year? I just had to swap the ones on my bougie Bosch for the third time. lolno. Does that come up as a common fault/issue when you plug the model number into the googler?
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Dec 22, 2020 23:21
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I mean if you search “Bosch axxis not turning” there’s a few YouTube results for how to change the brushes. It just feels so Harbor Freight, except HF tools include the spare brushes and don’t require 3 sizes of Torx to get at them.
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Dec 22, 2020 23:27
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