|
skylined! posted:Is there such a thing as a taller than normal old work gang box, or anyone have any suggestion how to fix this? If you're filling the old holes next to studs a properly grounded metal old work box screwed to the studs works something like this. Or you can use something like this guy and get creative bending the ears. Or patch the wall.
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 06:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 21:55 |
|
|
Elviscat posted:If you're filling the old holes next to studs a properly grounded metal old work box screwed to the studs works something like this. Unfortunately the studs aren’t exactly evenly placed so I guesstimated on box hole placements and am not screwing to studs. Looks like I’ll have to patch or try making a brace glued to some of the lathe above and/or below. Patching some of the plaster today anyway, so will give it a shot..
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 13:49
|
|
|
skylined! posted:Is there such a thing as a taller than normal old work gang box, or anyone have any suggestion how to fix this? I have had this exact issue. I installed a shim above or below the opening and behind the existing lath to bring the height back. The shim should be at least two inches wide, and 2"-4" longer than the opening you are adjusting. It needs to be secure enough not to fall down into the wall, and to back plaster - the pressure of the box tabs will pin it in place. After making sure my wiring in the wall will not be hit by drill or fastener, I fit a 2" or wider, 1/4" shim behind the existing lath, drill pilot holes and and screw straight through the plaster to catch the shim. On the stud-adjacent side, there are a few ways to secure it if you don't face-screw through the existing wall: pre-drill the shim at an angle to screw it to the near stud nad attach it there...or, you can nail or screw a cleat against the side of the stud, back-set far enough to account for the thickness of your shim, then set the shim into the slot you created & throw a couple of trim nails in to secure it. (If this method is used, the cleat will offset the box from the stud a bit, so the other end of of the box opening may need to be trimmed a bit to account for it). The wings should move back far enough to account for the greater thickness (lath+shim, especially 1/4") to catch behind it. If not, get longer machine screws. skylined! posted:Unfortunately the studs aren’t exactly evenly placed so I guesstimated on box hole placements and am not screwing to studs. Looks like I’ll have to patch or try making a brace glued to some of the lathe above and/or below. Patching some of the plaster today anyway, so will give it a shot.. Yup. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Dec 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2020 16:29
|
|
|
Thanks y’all. I was able to make two shims and pull the box out enough. Then using some washers able to get the outlet flush enough with the wall.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 04:22
|
|
|
I found some water in the basement dripping down the corner masonry blocks during a recent heavy downpour. Headed outside to see if a downspout had popped loose or something, but didn't see anything obvious, so I started poking around and whoa... a hole in the house. Somehow in two years in this house we never notices this 3/4"-ish wide gap in the wall letting anything in: bugs? rats? obviously water. I scrubbed it a bit and, since it's basically level with the exposed floor joists in the ceiling of our basement, pulled out the insulation on the inside that was now wet. My plan is just to slap some hydraulic cement in here. Anything else that I should do or is this an easy one? Nervous because, you know, water is bad.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2020 23:57
|
|
|
My dishwasher supply line is dripping, and I don't think I can safely tighten this any further. was I supposed to use teflon tape or something for this? I didn't think so. What else can I do?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 00:22
|
|
|
LlamaTrauma posted:I found some water in the basement dripping down the corner masonry blocks during a recent heavy downpour. Headed outside to see if a downspout had popped loose or something, but didn't see anything obvious, so I started poking around and whoa... a hole in the house. Somehow in two years in this house we never notices this 3/4"-ish wide gap in the wall letting anything in: bugs? rats? obviously water. I would hit that with some great stuff foam and call it a day. That might not be the right thing, but it's what I would do.  Cement/mortar is probably more correct.gvibes posted:My dishwasher supply line is dripping, and I don't think I can safely tighten this any further. was I supposed to use teflon tape or something for this? I didn't think so. What else can I do? Make sure that valve works and add several turns of teflon tape. I bet it stops leaking. Assuming you mean the hose fitting and not the valve itself. If it's the valve itself you need to find another shutoff and buy a rebuild kit, or if you're feelin super frisky and want to play with fire sweat on a quarter turn.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 00:30
|
|
|
I also posted this in the HVAC thread, but: I'm not sure this is the right thread, but my dishwasher sprung a leak, and now the space underneath my laminate kitchen floor is soaked. I was hoping for some recommendations for a dehumidifier to purchase to help dry it all out. Also, the insulation in the basement ceiling underneath the kitchen is now pretty wet. Can a dehumidifier generally deal with that, too?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 00:48
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Make sure that valve works and add several turns of teflon tape. I bet it stops leaking. Assuming you mean the hose fitting and not the valve itself. If it's the valve itself you need to find another shutoff and buy a rebuild kit, or if you're feelin super frisky and want to play with fire sweat on a quarter turn. On a related note, I didn't realize until I replaced the dishwasher, but my dishwasher drain hose has a 7/8" internal diameter (Miele) but the sink has a 1/2" fitting, I think. The prior installation had it jury rigged with a piece of rubber tubing to make up the gap, so I continued that here, but I would like to do this right. Pic below:  Is this what I need? Do I just cut the bottom piece to the desired length to match the existing install? https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-03-433...08767447&sr=8-1 Are the slip joints pretty easy? e: I would normally not do any of this myself, but our dishwasher broke, and it was 2.5 weeks until they could deliver. gvibes fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Dec 24, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 00:57
|
|
|
Quixzlizx posted:I also posted this in the HVAC thread, but: You're totally hosed and probably need to replace a substantial amount of your subflooring and basement ceiling. Water damage is really bad.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 01:19
|
|
|
Elviscat posted:You're totally hosed and probably need to replace a substantial amount of your subflooring and basement ceiling. Water damage is really bad. If I read the post right the floor joists are exposed and they pulled insulation out. Maybe they are lucky and rain only gets in during heavy rain with wind blowing it into that crack and the water damage isn't structural. Take pics OP, not every house should be set on fire
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 01:21
|
|
|
Like I said in the other thread, if you want to diy it buy several high output blowers, remove any insulation and drywall that got wet, and blow air through there until it feels bone dry and then continue for another week or two. But the suggestion you pay a professional is 100% the better option.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 01:25
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:If I read the post right the floor joists are exposed and they pulled insulation out. Maybe they are lucky and rain only gets in during heavy rain with wind blowing it into that crack and the water damage isn't structural. Take pics OP, not every house should be set on fire Leave my very nice and completely structurally sound house alone! Also I read "insulation" as "drywall" because I'm an idiot. I amend my previous post to "OP's subflooring is probably hosed, it might be able to be dried out from the basement, but consult a professional" I'd just replace the insulation, it's cheap enough, and it gets really nasty when wet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 01:40
|
|
|
Quixzlizx posted:I also posted this in the HVAC thread, but: Own? Or Renting? If you own it: call your homeowners insurance. I handle approximately 10,000 claims just like this, every year. You will need a new floor. Insulation. Possibly some mitigation. Maybe even cabinets. Check & see what your deductible is first, so you're prepared. If you rent: call your landlord.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 06:12
|
|
|
gvibes posted:Valve works, and no part of the valve itself seems wet, so I am pretty sure it is the fitting. I put on some teflon tape and will give it another try. Those rebuild kits seem really easy from the youtube videos, but I think I am going to call someone. Because I think I need to shut off the water to whole house to replace it. e: gvibes posted:On a related note, I didn't realize until I replaced the dishwasher, but my dishwasher drain hose has a 7/8" internal diameter (Miele) but the sink has a 1/2" fitting, I think. The prior installation had it jury rigged with a piece of rubber tubing to make up the gap, so I continued that here, but I would like to do this right. Pic below: 
gvibes fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Dec 24, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 18:03
|
|
|
gvibes posted:Update - I was wrong, it is just leaking through the valve stem. Smart move. If you have someone coming already have them replace it with a quarter turn. It will take them twice as long but then you're not praying for it to work for the next 30 years.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 18:10
|
|
|
I would get some backer rod and use a polyurethane caulking. I love that stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 18:40
|
|
|
TacoHavoc posted:I would get some backer rod and use a polyurethane caulking. I love that stuff. yes, who among us does not love the caulk
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 21:20
|
|
|
I want to buy some pegboards for my tools, any brands you guys like? The steel Wall Control ones on Amazon seem popular.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 21:33
|
|
|
Deviant posted:yes, who among us does not love the caulk Once you go polyurethane, you don't go back again.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 23:02
|
|
|
Jenkl posted:Once you go polyurethane, you don't go back again. my ex wanted to be polyurethane, but I wasn't feeling it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2020 23:14
|
|
|
Toebone posted:I want to buy some pegboards for my tools, any brands you guys like? The steel Wall Control ones on Amazon seem popular. Nope, pegboards suck. Pull up and save yourself while you still can. A good chest or tool carrier is much better imho, especially for frequently used stuff. Instead of having to think about what I need for a fix or a project, or making multiple trips back and forth to the tool room for one more thing, I can just grab my tote and have what I need all in one place. Plus most pegboard hangers suck and will tip out at the slightest provocation E: Honestly if you have to have vertical storage, a sheet of metal and magnets are a much better way to go. Hazard Fraught has some nice holders for screwdrivers and spray cans and shelves, I get far more use out of those on the sides of my cabinets than I do with the junk on my pegboard. Also, rare earth magnet hooks are cheap for multipacks on amazon, and will hold stupid amounts of weight, and are easy to reconfigure/pretty sturdy Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Dec 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 03:06
|
|
|
If you get pegboard, go out of your way to get the 1/4 inch thick stuff. Most of the "pegboards suck bro" sentiments are from people who just buy what's in stock at the big box place which is almost always thinner and easier to break. Obviously not applicable if you get metal or plastic.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 03:35
|
|
|
If you want a wall of tools, IMO the way to go is to put up a sheet of plywood and then screw custom tool holders to it. You can usually make a tool holder pretty easily out of a scrap of wood and 5-10 minutes' work that will be nicer and more secure than those pegboard hooks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 04:51
|
|
|
Both thick pegboard and bags. I have a bag each for electrical, plumbing & general carpentry. Same with drills. DeWalt in a case; RIGID for the basement & back-up. What's on the pegboard stays there for bench work unless it's some super-weird or specific job. 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Dec 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 06:48
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you want a wall of tools, IMO the way to go is to put up a sheet of plywood and then screw custom tool holders to it. You can usually make a tool holder pretty easily out of a scrap of wood and 5-10 minutes' work that will be nicer and more secure than those pegboard hooks. Yeah this is what I’ve always done. New place so don’t have the proper workshop set up yet but love this method.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2020 16:39
|
|
|
My mother is trying to reupholster some dining room chairs. They have a back cover made of curved 2mm chipboard that she probably can't reuse because the original fabric is glued to it, so she's looking for information on bending chipboard. Any ideas where I can find anything like that?
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2020 01:36
|
|
|
My parents were cooking something for Christmas and their electric oven triggered the circuit breaker after some time. Apparently it works fine in the grill mode, but everything else trips the circuit breaker eventually. This doesn't really make sense to me, isn't it more likely to actually turn off the heatering elements after reaching the temperature? Apparently they had a look inisde and didn't find anything other than the very simple switch and two temperature sensors.  It's an ~10y.o. Ikea/Whirlpool model, the DÅTID OV8 as far as I can tell. Any ideas what to look for? I'll probably go check it out once the lockdown is eased a bit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 15:05
|
|
|
I'd try changing out the breaker first. They can wear out or be defective. Fire up the oven and go stand by your panel with your hand on the face of the oven breaker, and see if it's heating up before it trips. A little warmth is normal, but it may get hot and you may catch a whiff of hot plastic before it trips.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 16:21
|
|
|
Oooh that's a good idea, I'd never consider that as a possibility. I'll pass it along and/or try it myself once I can.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 17:12
|
|
|
Forgot to add that the breaker may be OK but that the wiring bonds may be loose: check how tight the clamp screw is on the wire on both breakers. Worst case, you may have to pull the oven out and check the snugness of the wire clamps inside the 220V receptacle is well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 17:14
|
|
|
Hey. My gf collects horror memorabilia. She got a big bus shelter ad for Christmas and we want to put it up behind our TV (basically the only place it will fit) with magnets. We are eyeing these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magcraf...roduct-overview However, it will be behind my TV (about 1.5 ft away) and maybe a blu-ray player and/or a Playstation (the electronics float between the bedroom and the living room depending on what I want to play when). Will these magnets gently caress up my electronics? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 19:00
|
|
|
Not likely, unless you have CRTs (big glass TVs that no one but hobbyists keep). I wouldn't put a super strong magnet next to your stuff regardless, since a strong magnet could cause something to dislodge internally, but you're like 95% clear, as most modern electronics do not give a gently caress until you get to the 100s of lbs range.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 19:11
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:Not likely, unless you have CRTs (big glass TVs that no one but hobbyists keep). Word, thanks. I'm actually interested in getting a CRT once we move into a house for old games but that would be kept in a separate room anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 19:16
|
|
|
Then I would add to be careful; a strong magnet could magnetize something harmless, and that object could interfere with your CRT picture later, but it's not likely.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 19:21
|
|
|
Good to know, thanks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 19:22
|
|
|
I’d be more concerned with the magnets chipping or breaking and those fragments falling into your electronics, but you should be good as long as you don’t over tighten them or let them slap together really hard if you have mating ones mounted on the sign.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 19:42
|
|
|
Not my wheelhouse, but look into a scan converter or upscaler device and use your existing flat screen TV for retro gaming. Getting a CRT seems a bit excessive unless you’re posting in yospos.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 20:01
|
|
|
kreeningsons posted:I’d be more concerned with the magnets chipping or breaking and those fragments falling into your electronics, but you should be good as long as you don’t over tighten them or let them slap together really hard if you have mating ones mounted on the sign. A big assortment of felt furniture feet is a useful addition to any DIYer. They're great for applications like this: just cover the magnets on the wall with felt pad circles.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 20:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 21:55 |
|
|
yippee cahier posted:Not my wheelhouse, but look into a scan converter or upscaler device and use your existing flat screen TV for retro gaming. Getting a CRT seems a bit excessive unless you’re posting in yospos. How am I supposed to play duck hunt like that?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2020 20:07
|
|
