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eddiewalker posted:Your insulation doesn’t “go bad” from sitting in the attic. Ya but I believe it can "go bad" from being stepped on, or moved around during e.g. duct installation. How much that matters probably depends on how disturbed it is, what kind it is, other things The last rental I was in the previous tenant had messed with ducting in the attic for his weed grow.
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Dec 30, 2020 20:44
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Epitope posted:Ya but I believe it can "go bad" from being stepped on, or moved around during e.g. duct installation. How much that matters probably depends on how disturbed it is, what kind it is, other things It comes in a compressed bale. Blowing it in fluffs it up. When I squish some down doing maintenance, I fluff it back up as I exit.
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Dec 30, 2020 20:58
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Have it done as part of a whole upgrade and air sealing / insulation of the attic hatch. Make sure everything that needs to be left uncovered is correctly shielded. (Some light figures are rated for "direct contact" and others are not.)
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Dec 30, 2020 21:00
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eddiewalker posted:It comes in a compressed bale. Blowing it in fluffs it up. When I squish some down doing maintenance, I fluff it back up as I exit. Is that what's in OP's attic though? The stuff in the attic I saw was several generations of different materials, not easily re-fluffed
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Dec 30, 2020 21:06
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falz posted:So I've started this project for realz. Habitat for Humanity took my old kitchen on Dec 23 (except sink, keeping until last moment), I patched and painted yesterday, and today hung rails and am 'test driving' upper cabinets. I opted for 1) and 4) which became 'use IKEA's NYTTIG microwave bracket the wrong way'. 1) turned out ok, i put slightly too much texture on the wall when matching but it's mostly obstructed. 4) that NYTTIG piece is basically 2x4-ish sized, supposed to go on the back wall for the microwave to push it out a few inches since SEKTION cabinets are 15" deep. I put it on TOP of the microwave to push it DOWN a few inches. It's recessed an inch or so for the fans. If this becomes problematic I'll change it. This piece has stainless steel on one side, which when used properly faces DOWN to the cooktop per code. The other side is white, i cut it so i could take it off, flip it 180 and get white if I wanted. The stainless matched my micro quite well so leaving it that way for now. Also its smudgy due to fingerprints, ill clean that up when i take the blue protective stuff off of the cabinets (ie the last thing, probably). The micro is still pretty high, the bottom of it is about eye level for me (I'm 5'10"ish), this style is naturally deeper than others, but I prefer for it to be as close to flush with cabinet as possible, which is this way.   
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Dec 31, 2020 17:04
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I don’t want to be an rear end in a top hat but the microwave is just always going to look retrofitted in unless that cabinet above it was longer. The gap is just unnaturally big.
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Dec 31, 2020 17:56
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Feedback definitely appreciated. Ikea doesn't make a cabinet that is "right sized" for this as far as I can tell. The tall ones are 40" this one is 20" tall. Maybe I'm wrong? If so swapping it with the right one (30" tall?) Wouldn't be that hard. I'm going to finish it off this way, if its weird I can deal with it later, perhaps by replacing the microwave or lowering it even further somehow. falz fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 19:07
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I think it looks great and in 6 months no one will notice it.
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Dec 31, 2020 19:15
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Is it possible to cut a 40 incher down to 30 with a circular saw and screw and or bracket the bottom back on? That’s likely the route I’d go because my brain doesn’t let things slide or I’m so warped from quarantining then I can’t not notice house defects constantly.
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Dec 31, 2020 19:27
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Worth noting that the interwebs says range hoods (ie not a microwave) typical height above stove is 28"-36", this is 27", so in that ballpark. Also, or appears that they do actually make a 30" high one. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/sektion-wall-cabinet-frame-white-70265469/ Next time I'm there I may just grab it to have on hand in case I want to change something later. I think it looks fine though, my pictures omit the full wall and floor because it's basically a construction area. I'm waiting to put base cabinets in until floor is done, but both of these should be done next week. falz fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 19:42
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The height looks natural to me, the depth not so much but you won't notice it in a few weeks. Are you going to cut down those cover panels or leave them long like that? We're doing a sektion kitchen in ours and a sektion sideboard to serve as the pantry in our "dining room" since there's zero pantry storage in the house.  The countertop finish is still curing so that was just a dry fit and we've since put all the cover panels on top and bottom. We mounted the cover panels so they're flush with the doors instead of the cab frames, so the 18" handles shown there won't allow the bottom cabs to open. We didn't have handles for these cabs due to a shortage so we're ordering shorter ones for those. Still on the fence about putting handles on the top cabinets, probably will since we got the high gloss doors and I have grubby hands. Kitchen doesn't exist yet because I've been avoiding doing the electrical. e2: don't worry, that poo poo chandelier is going in the loving trash. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 22:13
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Motronic posted:A proper sump pump is the last piece of a chain of much more expensive things that have already happened. It's all about drainage....inside the house, outside the house.....it's situation specific. But that pit or pits are the culmination of all the water mitigation you've done that can't drain away form the house directly. Do these situations fail in weird ways? The house we're renting has a similar looking setup and in the last six months or so starting dumping water into the basement when it rains, but it comes out of the side of the chimney that what I assume an older boiler used to feed into (the house is from the late 1940s). The landlord was convinced that the fault was with the terrible makeshift chimney cap he'd attached to one of the two openings that was a flat aluminum plate secured at a slant to the one good chimney cap. He spent a bunch of money get a double chimney cap crafted for ?? reasons. Needless to say after waiting for weeks for the chimney cap situation to get resolved it did basically nothing for the water coming into the basement. I shop vacuum the water up and dump it into the cistern at the landlord's direction, and the last time it rained I noticed the plastic drain pipe for the side of the house the chimney was on wasn't really dripping water like the other one. That's what got me wondering about the drainage system. I'm not trying to fix it or hire anyone to solve it, but I'm curious about how likely it is for a system that like that which was installed about a decade ago has started to act up like that.
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Jan 1, 2021 02:52
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I've got a kitchen island made of two connected off-the-shelf base cabinets. I am going to build something "custom" (ie, some carpentry and one off-the-shelf base cabinet) to replace it. However, I am an idiot and can't figure out how these cabinets are connected to the floor. I assume they're not just held by their own weight, but for the life of me I can't figure out just by looking where they are screwed down. Every video I've been able to scrounge up is removing them from walls with no connection to the floor. I figure once I start busting it up, it'll become clear, but I'd like some sense of it before I get the crowbar out.
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Jan 1, 2021 07:35
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Huxley posted:I've got a kitchen island made of two connected off-the-shelf base cabinets. I am going to build something "custom" (ie, some carpentry and one off-the-shelf base cabinet) to replace it. Do you have a slab foundation or a subfloor? Is the flooring around it encapsulating the island, or is the island on top of the flooring?
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Jan 1, 2021 09:55
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Huxley posted:I've got a kitchen island made of two connected off-the-shelf base cabinets. I am going to build something "custom" (ie, some carpentry and one off-the-shelf base cabinet) to replace it.
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Jan 1, 2021 14:45
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BonerGhost posted:The height looks natural to me, the depth not so much but you won't notice it in a few weeks. Nice, hadn't thought about SEKTION as a sideboard. Re: my micro depth, you mean because its too shallow or too deep? Neither bugs me, I just wanted to keep it as shallow as possible, which it currently is. Note this style micro is about 2" deeper than most for whatever reason. Curious how you got your side cover panels to be flush with the doors? On mine, the default size was like 1/4" short and I was annoyed. They would fit if there were a gap to the wall, which seemed odd or dumb. It seems like the default size of these should be slightly deeper for this reason. The pic below seems to show them out slightly. I cut mine to be flush to the cabinet, as well as a rail notch on top so I could still take the cabinet down if need be. All of that is hidden as it's sandwiched between other cabinets. My cover panels drop down a few inches, that's intentional. I have yet to add the FÖRBÄTTRA Rounded deco strip. This is an option that's generally used to help conceal any under cabinet lighting, which I added (non-ikea). I'm waiting to add the strip as well as the cover panels on the wall edges until the lowers are installed so they can line up properly with the stove. It will end up looking like this: 
falz fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 16:03
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quote:
I'm sorry but this is absolutely insane looking. The bottom of my microwave is 18" from the top (burners) of the stove. I am also 5'10" and the top of the microwave is probably 5'8". I have to tilt my head down slightly to get a good view through the microwave window. Just go buy the 30" cabinet and correct it now. Seriously. edit: Do you really want to be reaching ABOVE YOUR HEAD to take out very hot items, maybe even hot liquid items that can spill ON YOUR HEAD? Some Guy From NY fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jan 1, 2021 |
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Jan 1, 2021 16:37
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Mircowaves are stored on the counter
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Jan 1, 2021 16:43
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peanut posted:Mircowaves are stored on the counter
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Jan 1, 2021 16:45
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Some Guy From NY posted:I'm sorry but this is absolutely insane looking. The bottom of my microwave is 18" from the top (burners) of the stove. I am also 5'10" and the top of the microwave is probably 5'8". I have to tilt my head down slightly to get a good view through the microwave window. Short people need not apply. This looks like my dream.
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Jan 1, 2021 16:47
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Danhenge posted:Do these situations fail in weird ways?............I noticed the plastic drain pipe for the side of the house the chimney was on wasn't really dripping water like the other one. It's all weird if you don't know what's going on. So let's start with this: internal/retrofitted drain tile goes inside your basement like this:  External is the same, but it's sitting outside of your foundation. Either way, both side typically end at a sump pit. You see that pvc pipe with holes in it in the picture? Nobody uses that anymore. Most typically you're going to fine corrugated pipe. This stuff:  Or even more recently this stuff:  Both of which still have a tendency to clog up with dirt and silt making it's way through the stone and then those drain holes. So in more recent installs it will be corrugated pipe with a filter sock on it like this:  Or even better this:  which has the sock filled with styrofoam filter material. So that's sitting around the inside or outside perimeter of your basement. If it's outside and you have basement windows with the big cut out and your contractors did a good job the well of those windows will have a pipe coming up tee'd off of the drain tile as well. So what could fail? I mean.....now that you see what you're dealing with it could be anything form a pipe that's clogged in some section to a bad install where something subsided/not enough gravel/excavated too far and didn't pack/what have you where the pipe got crushed after installation. Your landlord needs a non-idiot contractor with a plumber buddy who has a camera snake to figure out what's up. This is basic, basic, basic drainage poo poo which tells me your landlord is either hiring the wrong people for the job or is coming to contractors with his own diagnosis.
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Jan 1, 2021 16:52
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MetaJew posted:Do you have a slab foundation or a subfloor? Is the flooring around it encapsulating the island, or is the island on top of the flooring? Subfloor/crawl space. Based on the other cabinets I've moved around I'm pretty sure this one has flooring underneath it, but we'd really have to change our plans up if not. Find out soon enough, I reckon. Slugworth posted:Sometimes they are not connected, if they have a heavy enough counter on top. The usual way though is to screw some 2x4s to the floor, then set the cabinet down, screw the cabinet base to the 2x4, and then install a toekick over the screws. So check your toekick, and if you don't see any screws or nails in it, see if you can remove it to find hidden screws behind it. This is a great tip, and I'll check it out. Thanks both!
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Jan 1, 2021 17:08
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Baby’s first major home project. Even tho I’m renting. I put up thermal curtains cause I was sick of losing a lot of heat through the windows. Plus, they double as blackouts! Also, I learned that hacksaws are awful tools for cutting through metal if you don’t have the right insert.
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Jan 1, 2021 18:06
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In the spirit of the thread title: I did a dumb. We have vaulted ceilings with a main beam running through. We had some painters through last year that painted everything, but the caulk they used along the beam trim had cracked and was driving me nuts. I got up there yesterday and cut the old stuff out and redid it with the flexible stuff. Today I set up the ladder again to paint and finish things off. I leaned my extension ladder up against the beam. The feet slid, the upper end slid down into open air, slammed against the range hood, tearing it down. Nearly hit my wife who was in the kitchen. Traumatized the poor dog in his crate.   I'm mostly okay, just huge bruise on my shin and ego. Took an hour to clean up all the spilled paint. The hood is dented, but it landed on my cutting board which took most of the brunt. Small chip in the edge of the counter and a scratch on the dishwasher handle. Could have been much much worse. Step 1 in fixing this mess:  An appropriate ladder. Learn from my mistake goons, ladders kill some absurd number of diyers every year. I could easily have gone down the stairs or crushed my dog if this had gone differently.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:16
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I'm reminded of the time as a young Deviant I was working at an arcade and changed a light bulb on a tilted ladder set up on two skee ball machines. Don't do what deviant don't does.
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Jan 1, 2021 19:22
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Microwave-gate!Tezer posted:Mircowaves are stored on the counter peanut posted:Mircowaves are stored on the counter 1) A top loading microwave that you pull out like a drawer and is completely hidden. There fridge things like this. (I don't think this exists as a Microwave.) 2) built in like a wall oven 3) Behind a door in a pantry, perhaps pulls out on a drawer 4) Range hood (ie current location) 5) .. 10) stored on the counter Some Guy From NY posted:I'm sorry but this is absolutely insane looking. The bottom of my microwave is 18" from the top (burners) of the stove. I am also 5'10" and the top of the microwave is probably 5'8". I have to tilt my head down slightly to get a good view through the microwave window. The closest IKEA is about 2 hours away and it's out of stock, as well as at any IKEA within hundreds of miles. If I go there again in person, i'll pick it up and store on hand. FYI this is a photo from eye level. I'm starting to think that it is  
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Jan 1, 2021 19:50
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falz posted:Microwave-gate!  how tall are you?
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Jan 1, 2021 20:00
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falz posted:My hot take of preferred Microwave location would be They make (1), I would say about 70% of the kitchens I do have one. Sharp and Wolf are the two that get spec'd the most often in the projects I work on. Number (4) just means you don't actually have a range hood. There does not exist a good range hood/microwave combo. The reason microwaves go on the countertop (or loose fit in a cabinet) is they are a replaceable consumer electronic. When they get built in, now you're talking to a general contractor in five years when you need to replace it because they stopped making the model you originally installed and the cabinet needs to be modified or replaced. No one buys built-in toasters. It's a good idea to avoid built-in appliances unless they don't make sense otherwise (range hoods - they need ventilation so they'll be in a fixed location no matter what), the install style is standardized across manufacturers (dishwashers, mostly), or you know the component can be repaired or replaced easily within the lifetime of your kitchen (like subzero). Half the laundry rooms I work on are triggered by new appliances not fitting into a appliance-sized hole carefully crafted in the 1980s. This winter, we are modifying a laundry room built in 2009 because the new appliances don't fit. EDIT: If you don't have room for a countertop microwave I totally get that, but just because you're forced by circumstances into a over-range microwave doesn't mean it's the right location in abstract. Compromises are always inefficient.
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Jan 1, 2021 20:01
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falz posted:Nice, hadn't thought about SEKTION as a sideboard. Re: my micro depth, you mean because its too shallow or too deep? Neither bugs me, I just wanted to keep it as shallow as possible, which it currently is. Note this style micro is about 2" deeper than most for whatever reason. I think the micro looks a little deep for the space but it's not crazy or anything. That deco strip looks sharp, we're trying to do the ikea under cabinet lighting in the kitchen so probably not as necessary in ours. There is a bit of a gap between the wall and the cover panels, but only about a quarter inch, and it's only really visible on the left side so 
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Jan 1, 2021 21:01
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NomNomNom posted:In the spirit of the thread title: Yowch. Close calls are always a bit humbling. I've had enough run-ins with ladders that I'm at the point where I've sworn them off almost entirely. Even if it's eminently doable, I'll try to hire out if it involves a ladder.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:09
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H110Hawk posted:Short people need not apply. This looks like my dream. The dream for tall people is no upper cabinets, blocking your view of half the counters. Plus raise the counter height by 6 or 8 inches.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:24
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wooger posted:The dream for tall people is no upper cabinets, blocking your view of half the counters. Where am I supposed to store things? I'm not bending down. Those lowers may as well not be there.
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Jan 1, 2021 21:27
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Motronic posted:It's all weird if you don't know what's going on. Thanks for this explanation! It's the black stuff, with or without the filter, but I'd guess just the holes no filter. No contractor was involved in the issue with the chimney, he's said he's looking for someone now. I'm willing to bet there will be some delay though, because he's about to drop a bunch of money on new windows. He's definitely got an extreme case of trying to save $500 now with DIY or stopgap measures so he can spend $10k later to fix a $5k problem now. He's not even a slumlord or anything, he and his wife used to live in this house only about four years ago! Completely insane poo poo. edit: In fact, my new pet theory based on what you've described is that the old stupid chimney cap was allowing a slow trick of water to wash ash and particulate from the chimney down into the basement that was making its way into those drains on top of the normal drainage which has served to clog the drain so now it can't drain into the cistern. I'll let his contractor figure it out whenever it happens, though. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jan 2, 2021 |
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Jan 2, 2021 00:33
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H110Hawk posted:Where am I supposed to store things? I'm not bending down. Those lowers may as well not be there. On the flip side, when my short wife and I design a new kitchen we are going to avoid upper cabinets as much as possible because she can’t effectively reach or see into them. I can only effectively reach about 2/3rds of an upper cabinet without having to get a stool or climb onto the counter. If tall people move in later then they can install their own loving tall people poo poo 
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Jan 2, 2021 00:33
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NomNomNom posted:An appropriate ladder. I'm glad you didn't die using the most dangerous tool in the worksite. Also the solution to the vertically impaired. csammis posted:On the flip side, when my short wife and I design a new kitchen we are going to avoid upper cabinets as much as possible because she can’t effectively reach or see into them. I can only effectively reach about 2/3rds of an upper cabinet without having to get a stool or climb onto the counter. If tall people move in later then they can install their own loving tall people poo poo Ironically my short wife (she claims "tall side of average" but it's hard to hear her up here) has her cake decorating/baking supplies on the top shelf of our uppers. It means she either has to get out the step stool we keep in the kitchen or ask me to get them down. Meanwhile my hosed up back means it's painful to get things out of the back of the bottom cabinets.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:38
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H110Hawk posted:Meanwhile my hosed up back means it's painful to get things out of the back of the bottom cabinets. Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back. https://www.rockler.com/shop-by-brand/rev-a-shelf/pull-outs
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Jan 2, 2021 00:46
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Motronic posted:Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back. Yeah, this is the general idea. We added all slide out shelves to our pantry and a huge drawer at the bottom. It's amazing. Slightly unnerving to fully extend several feet of liquids in various containers right at eye level but man is it nice. It's all on hold due to covid.
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Jan 2, 2021 00:53
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Motronic posted:Roll out trays in the bottom of every cabinet is life changing. Not only for the bending over part but also that you can SEE whats in there and not have to unpack/repack a cabinet to get at things in the back. Oh nice, this is definitely going into the redesign plans!
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Jan 2, 2021 01:24
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All of our base cabinets in the kitchen are drawers that pull out all the way  I'm short but my back has been hosed up for over a decade, I have no patience anymore for leaning over and digging through poo poo.
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Jan 2, 2021 01:47
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H110Hawk posted:Where am I supposed to store things? I'm not bending down. Those lowers may as well not be there. Full height floor to ceiling cabinets on another wall is my choice. And some minimal shelves for stuff I’m actively cooking with. If you replace all lower cabinets with deep drawers they’re much more useable imo.
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Jan 2, 2021 02:02
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