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I. M. Gei posted:
Okay SO... There’s this ditch here between the ground and my fence, that I need to fill in with dirt.   See that gap, between the vertical post and the dog-ear fence slats? This gap?  I need to put a wood plank in that gap, up against the fence slats, to act as a retaining wall for the dirt I gotta put in, so it doesn’t erode into our neighbor’s yard (we live on a hill and our neighbor’s house is below us, separated by a stone wall). As you can see, the gap (which is about the same width/thickness as the fence-board pictured below) is about 1 1/2”. So, a bit thicker than how I remembered it.  The wood I have is JUUUUUUST SLIGHTLY thicker than that gap, like by about 1/16” or 1/8” (so it’s about 1 5/8” thick). Not quite thin enough to slide comfortably into the gap, but close. I need to I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jan 5, 2021 |
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Jan 5, 2021 00:29
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Dude. It's an inch and a half. Where ever are you going to find a piece of ground-contact rated wood that's an inch and a half? Hint: it's the single most common piece of pressure treated wood made. A loving 2xwhatever. Done.
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Jan 5, 2021 00:31
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sharkytm posted:Dude. It's an inch and a half. Where ever are you going to find a piece of ground-contact rated wood that's an inch and a half? Yeah that’s what I already bought. It don’t fit. I tried.
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Jan 5, 2021 00:32
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Glad to see you got a tape measure and are using it! You can either wait for a a normal 2x to dry out and shrink a little so it will fit, or get 5/4 decking board that is a full inch thick, or use a hand saw/chisel/router/circ saw to cut notches in the ends of 2x’s so they will fit in there. A planer is not a good tool for dealing with treated lumber, as others have said. If you’re determined to try to solve this problem with a planer, get the cheapest one you can find because, as many others have told you, you’re going to ruin it by running wet, treated wood through it.
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Jan 5, 2021 00:37
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yeah if it's just to squeeze behind that post I'd just hog out a chunk from a board with any kind of cutting tool or hell if it's close just bash on it with a hammer
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Jan 5, 2021 00:53
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Glad to see you got a tape measure and are using it! ...... yes? I’ve HAD a tape measure. I got the Stanley FatMax because this thread recommended it. I got it like 9 months ago. Why are you still talking about it? Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A planer is not a good tool for dealing with treated lumber, as others have said. If you’re determined to try to solve this problem with a planer, get the cheapest one you can find because, as many others have told you, you’re going to ruin it by running wet, treated wood through it. Can we abandon the loving planer chat now? Please? I have already absorbed the fact that a planer is not the solution to my problem. You keeping on talking about planers is just gonna make others think that I’m still considering using a planer, which I’m not. I am not going to buy or use a planer for this purpose. Please stop mentioning planers. Thank you. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can either wait for a a normal 2x to dry out and shrink a little so it will fit, or get 5/4 decking board that is a full inch thick, or use a hand saw/chisel/router/circ saw to cut notches in the ends of 2x’s so they will fit in there. The plank I got was already dried out when I tried to fit it, and the notch thing is out since cutting a 1/8” deep notch into the end of a plank is...... just...... no. I really hope I don’t have to explain in detail to this of all threads why no to that. The 5/4 deck boards should work though. I have to see the wood in person to make sure, but assuming it’s only about 1” thick then yeah, that should do it. Thanks! (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Jan 5, 2021 01:15
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why is cutting an 1/8" notch in the end of a plank a no
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Jan 5, 2021 01:29
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Have you considered 3d printing something then using your planer ( I am assuming you bought one by now) to pare it down to the right size? Or maybe epoxy? Seriously I'm not seeing anything a 2x4 and a hammer won't solve. If it won't squeeze in, just chisel it down a little.
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Jan 5, 2021 01:51
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Get some rocks and stuff em in there.
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Jan 5, 2021 01:51
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Rufio posted:Seriously I'm not seeing anything a 2x4 and a hammer won't solve. If it won't squeeze in, just chisel it down a little.
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Jan 5, 2021 01:53
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Or a spray foam?
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Jan 5, 2021 01:53
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A temporary board on the back and a little bit of fast setting quickrete and a squirt from the garden hose if you wanna be fancy.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:07
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I. M. Gei posted:The plank I got was already dried out when I tried to fit it, and the notch thing is out since cutting a 1/8” deep notch into the end of a plank is...... just...... no. I really hope I don’t have to explain in detail to this of all threads why no to that. Not trying to be condescending in the least. Setting a circular saw to (1/8" in your case) depth and cutting several times across the notch area and then knocking the tiny "teeth" out with a hammer is SOP for notching posts. Quick and easy and all you need is a circular saw, speed square, and a hammer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wnmCGicpOfY
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Jan 5, 2021 02:11
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Rufio posted:Seriously I'm not seeing anything a 2x4 and a hammer won't solve. If it won't squeeze in, just chisel it down a little. stealie72 posted:This is the answer. My plank is 10” wide and 8 linear feet, and all of that is just slightly too thick. That’s a bit big for a chisel (and I’m not entirely sure how a chisel is cool to use on something that I shouldn’t use a planer on; I guess the blade is different?), although a power sander might work on it.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:13
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I'm confused about what's going on here I guess. It doesnt seem to me that you would need a huge block of wood or whatever in there if you are just trying to block dirt. Where does the 8ft come into play?
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Jan 5, 2021 02:19
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JEEVES420 posted:Not trying to be condescending in the least. Setting a circular saw to (1/8" in your case) depth and cutting several times across the notch area and then knocking the tiny "teeth" out with a hammer is SOP for notching posts. Quick and easy and all you need is a circular saw, speed square, and a hammer. I know how to do this. I already did it on part of that wall trellis. Doing it to a depth of 1/16” to 1/8” over like an inch and a half just to get a piece of wood behind a fencepost just seems like... way more effort-ful a solution than is necessary for what I’m doing. Like why not just sand my wood down or buy the 5/4 deck boards instead? Rufio posted:I'm confused about what's going on here I guess. It doesnt seem to me that you would need a huge block of wood or whatever in there if you are just trying to block dirt. I have to do this over a length of 55+ feet.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:22
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I. M. Gei posted:I have to do this over a length of 55+ feet.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:29
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So you're installing a bottom board across the entirety of the fence line, correct? And you only need to tuck the board a little bit behind those posts to create a barrier, right? So you can just chisel a little bit off the end of the board and tuck it in, or probably just hammer it in since its so close. Why trim the entire board? Okay so kerfing the board with a circular saw over 1.5in is too much effort? I dunno man. Sanding 1/16 to 1/8 off is way more effort than that.
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Jan 5, 2021 02:32
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Out of curiosity, is this a good deal for this jointer? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/778300559558514/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=undefined Seems like it'd probably be a motherfucker to move, but still, a jointer. Edit: Although hmm that cord looks like it might be hosed up near the plug and I guess it might be 220v which would be a no-go for me for the time being.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:09
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Danhenge posted:Out of curiosity, is this a good deal for this jointer? Yeah, it's a good deal. That's when they were built like a cast steel shithouse, and you only have to move it once. The motor might be dual wiring where you can remove a plate switch tabs to get 120v.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:16
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Danhenge posted:Out of curiosity, is this a good deal for this jointer? Those are great. My old boss had one. Especially great for $300 if it’s in decent shape.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:20
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JEEVES420 posted:Not trying to be condescending in the least. Setting a circular saw to (1/8" in your case) depth and cutting several times across the notch area and then knocking the tiny "teeth" out with a hammer is SOP for notching posts. Quick and easy and all you need is a circular saw, speed square, and a hammer. This seems like the easiest and fastest answer. If you're doing a bunch and the spacing is super consistent, you could even gang cut them.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:24
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I. M. Gei posted:My plank is 10” wide and 8 linear feet, and all of that is just slightly too thick. That’s a bit big for a chisel (and I’m not entirely sure how a chisel is cool to use on something that I shouldn’t use a planer on; I guess the blade is different?), although a power sander might work on it. To answer your question, wet wood on a spinning machine gums poo poo up. The treated stuff can gently caress the machine up, over heat it and cause mayhem. A chisel costs ten bucks and can be cleaned off without tearing it to pieces. It can also be resharpened.
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Jan 5, 2021 04:27
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I. M. Gei posted:Yeah that’s what I already bought. It don’t fit. I tried. freeze the wood in liquid nitrogen so it becomes smaller. then put it in place and the ambient temperature will make the wood expand into an unbreakable seal
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Jan 5, 2021 05:33
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Please do not powersand treated wood.
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Jan 5, 2021 07:00
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Construct an elaborate hydraulic press to squeeze the wood thin enough to push into place.
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Jan 5, 2021 07:13
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Rutibex posted:freeze the wood in liquid nitrogen so it becomes smaller. then put it in place and the ambient temperature will make the wood expand into an unbreakable seal Fool! Simply heat the existing fence in a furnace to expand it.
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Jan 5, 2021 09:42
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Genetically engineer termites that are resistant to the chemical treatment, then train them to only eat the parts you want.
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Jan 5, 2021 09:46
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You're over-thinking it. Stand with the fence closer in the foreground and the slat further in the background. Adjust to fit.
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Jan 5, 2021 14:38
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cakesmith handyman posted:Construct an elaborate hydraulic press to squeeze the wood thin enough to push into place. Cannon_Fodder posted:You're over-thinking it. Stand with the fence closer in the foreground and the slat further in the background. Adjust to fit. Vindolanda posted:Fool! Simply heat the existing fence in a furnace to expand it. Platystemon posted:Genetically engineer termites that are resistant to the chemical treatment, then train them to only eat the parts you want.  IM is the gift that keeps on giving. Has anyone checked Motronic's blood pressure lately?
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Jan 5, 2021 16:56
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You’re thinking it might be enough to run the needed hydraulics? Smart.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:12
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At this point I'm thinking it's better to just demo the fence and start over.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:18
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Rufio posted:At this point I'm thinking it's better to just demo the fence and start over. In all seriousness - and I realise that depending on where you are etc this may be impractical - this really looks like a “money can be exchanged for goods and services” situation. Pay someone to make a fence, especially if part of the purpose is to stop your yard sliding into a neighbours yard.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:25
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:
Y'all are doing a fine job of handling this one. It was a little iffy at the start, but the people who know what's actually happening have entered the thread.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:35
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So was the whole thing a troll?
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Jan 5, 2021 17:47
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Rufio posted:So was the whole thing a troll? HOW DARE you say that reveered and respected Poster I.M. GEI would be a troll he's just trying to find the right way to fit his wood around the fence. It's insulting to even suggest this.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:49
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tater_salad posted:HOW DARE you say that reveered and respected Poster I.M. GEI would be a troll he's just trying to find the right way to fit his wood around the fence. It's insulting to even suggest this. You can't just go sticking your wood anywhere you think it'll fit. That's how you get splinters.
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Jan 5, 2021 17:59
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It’s a case of the XY problem.
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Jan 5, 2021 18:10
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I might have missed it, but I think we are all overlooking the obvious solution. Have we considered getting rid of the neighbors?
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Jan 5, 2021 18:14
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El Jebus posted:I might have missed it, but I think we are all overlooking the obvious solution. Have we considered getting rid of the neighbors? You can't "Own" land, man, its mother earths. Tear down that wall!
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Jan 5, 2021 18:20
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