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FogHelmut posted:I've had good luck with a hydrogen peroxide based cleaner and just letting it sit. That was on the floor though. I think you can also do the same with a bleach gel and just trace out the lines. TurdBurgles posted:If you go the bleach route, be very careful. I tried to clean our shower grout and wasn't paying attention and the bleach ran. Now we have bleached streaks on the tile and it looks worse.
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Jan 9, 2021 23:43
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Is there an HCH-endorsed layout/modeling software for planning home renovations? A quick googling returned at least a half-dozen free programs or websites, so it seemed worthwhile to check here and see if anyone has a specific recommendation. Our kitchen is incredibly poorly designed, and we're planning to do a complete gut and rebuild in the spring/summer timeframe. We're trying to plan it out now, and I'd like to be able to iterate on a handful of different layouts for the counters and appliances relatively easily (more easily than CAD, for instance). Also this will absolutely not be the last question about this project. e: realized this is a Homes Zone question, but I'll leave it here for posterity Blowjob Overtime fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 17:28
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Anyone able to recommend a good combination smoke, carbon monoxide and natural gas detector?
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Jan 10, 2021 19:51
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Harold Fjord posted:Any quick tips on identifying what piece of my furnace makes a super loud bang noise as it heats up and cools down and ways to reduce the sound? Our new dog is pretty sensitive and it freaks him out every time it happens. Got a sound sample? Because I'm wondering if it's coming from your furnace unit or the ducting. We had an issue with a loud "thud" that we'd hear every time our furnace turned on and off. Turned out it was the poorly-done ductwork flexing/contracting. Cute pooch, btw. 
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Jan 10, 2021 23:13
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I've been laser cutting some mylar sheets and generally liking the results. The only problem is how quickly these sheets pick up fingerprints. Is there anything I can coat these with to keep them looking nicer, longer? Google isn't helpful, it's just giving me a bunch of advice on how to extract fingerprints off mylar to ID people.
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Jan 11, 2021 17:33
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Chainclaw posted:I've been laser cutting some mylar sheets and generally liking the results. The only problem is how quickly these sheets pick up fingerprints. Is there anything I can coat these with to keep them looking nicer, longer?
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Jan 11, 2021 17:48
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Chainclaw posted:I've been laser cutting some mylar sheets and generally liking the results. The only problem is how quickly these sheets pick up fingerprints. Is there anything I can coat these with to keep them looking nicer, longer? When I worked at a photolab customers used to complain about one of my coworkers leaving fingerprints on everything when she went through the photos to check for defects. They got her a pair of soft cotton gloves that solved this problem. You could also just hold glossy things by their edge like a civilized person 
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Jan 11, 2021 19:25
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Can you get a generator that runs on your home natural gas connection? Is that a bad idea, since if your electricity is gone due to a natural disaster, natural gas might be gone too?
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Jan 12, 2021 00:05
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Can you get a generator that runs on your home natural gas connection? Is that a bad idea, since if your electricity is gone due to a natural disaster, natural gas might be gone too? Yes. No. Maybe but maybe not.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:07
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Can you get a generator that runs on your home natural gas connection? Is that a bad idea, since if your electricity is gone due to a natural disaster, natural gas might be gone too? In most areas, long term power outages are due to wind or ice. In those events, NG is usually unaffected. For most people, NG is the easiest and most reliable energy source for backup power where available, especially if you intend to get a whole house auto transfer setup.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:20
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HycoCam posted:Wear gloves? Depending on what I am doing and how clean I need things to stay, I wear either nitral gloves or white cotton gloves. Gloves won't work because I'm making Warhammer objective markers. I don't really want to force me and my opponent to find some gloves to play Warhammer. 
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Jan 12, 2021 00:27
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Chainclaw posted:Gloves won't work because I'm making Warhammer objective markers. I don't really want to force me and my opponent to find some gloves to play Warhammer. Big Dick Cheney posted:Can you get a generator that runs on your home natural gas connection? Is that a bad idea, since if your electricity is gone due to a natural disaster, natural gas might be gone too? Around here everyone with a permanently installed standby generator runs it on their normal natural gas. The only time in my parent's memory the gas has gone out was the worst hurricane in living memory 40-50 yrs ago, and that was because the gas company pre-emptively turned the gas off before the storm in case uprooted trees damaged the gas lines. They pretty quickly turned it back on when it became apparent there wasn't major damage to the gas lines.
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Jan 12, 2021 00:43
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Especially because natural gas lines are buried, so unless you live in a geologically active are I’d think they’d be pretty reliable.
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Jan 12, 2021 03:09
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OSU_Matthew posted:Especially because natural gas lines are buried, so unless you live in a geologically active are I’d think they’d be pretty reliable. Not necessarily. This depends on how natural gas makes it to your particular area. Sometimes it's pumped (read: electric) sometimes it's in a tank with a heavy lid that creates the required pressure (optimal for this scenario). This is very area and geography specific.
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Jan 12, 2021 03:40
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Anyone here ever used a bullet heater for their garage? My garage is an attached walkout, so it's sealed pretty tight (not leaky at all.) There's a door to the basement, a door to the outside, and the garage door itself. I got a bullet heater and fired it up the other day (left the door to the outside cracked open), but I'm having some serious reservations about going this route. It smelled (though I've heard these heaters all smell the first x hours, burning off oil or whatever), but I'm not familiar with "this is a bad smell" vs. "this is a dangerous smell". I did get a CO detector and mounted it near the floor and it stayed at 0ppm the entire time. I'm about 90% towards just calling in an electrician to have some 220 run and installing an electric heater (need more outlets in the garage anyway). e: the heater I got is a propane heater. This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRFVDP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jan 13, 2021 20:48
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Goddamn, my first ever "quote is not edit".
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Jan 13, 2021 20:50
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Get a CO detector, but yeah....I wouldn't run one in a space like that. I run a diesel one in my leaky rear end barn with no ceiling and an open ridge vent and coupola. With a CO detector. That works fine, but only because it's so freaking leaky..
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Jan 13, 2021 23:05
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'm about 90% towards just calling in an electrician to have some 220 run and installing an electric heater (need more outlets in the garage anyway). Round up to 100%
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Jan 14, 2021 01:49
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'm about 90% towards just calling in an electrician to have some 220 run and installing an electric heater (need more outlets in the garage anyway). If your main panel isn't in the garage have em put in a small sub panel so that you can run a car charger there along with your heater. 
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Jan 14, 2021 02:41
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Anyone here ever used a bullet heater for their garage? Another problem you're going to run into with a propane heater in a well sealed garage is moisture, since those ones that are rated to run indoors still produce tons of water vapor as a product of combustion, if you run that thing for long you'll turn your garage into a sauna. If your garage is well heated and insulated an installed electric heater is a good bet. E: also make sure that CO detector is at least 5 feet off the floor, CO tends to rise, being slightly lighter than air, and that's exacerbated by being mixed with hot combustion air. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jan 14, 2021 |
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Jan 14, 2021 04:02
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My doorbell doesn't work. The previous owner was using one of those wireless transmitter ones stuck over the original. I checked the wires for power with a multimeter where the switch used to be and at the transformer and both spots are dead. I could try finding where the power cable that should be tied into the transformer ends and why its not working anymore but I don't really want to use the old doorbell at all really. I bought one of those smart video doorbells and if my wiring had worked would have provided power as an alternative to the built in battery that would need topping off now and then. The benefit of having it wired is the doorbell can be in a more active recording mode. My question is, could I unhook the wires that connect the old switch to the transformer, splice on a usb connection to the end, and then connect that to a power bank hidden in the casing for the doorbell on the wall? That way I can pull out the power bank when its low from the comfort of inside the house, and the doorbell can top itself off as needed. I guess what I'm asking is if the wire thats already run through the house is suited for that sort of 'upgrade'.
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Jan 14, 2021 08:20
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Blackchamber posted:My doorbell doesn't work. The previous owner was using one of those wireless transmitter ones stuck over the original. I checked the wires for power with a multimeter where the switch used to be and at the transformer and both spots are dead. I could try finding where the power cable that should be tied into the transformer ends and why its not working anymore but I don't really want to use the old doorbell at all really. I bought one of those smart video doorbells and if my wiring had worked would have provided power as an alternative to the built in battery that would need topping off now and then. The benefit of having it wired is the doorbell can be in a more active recording mode. Nope. For one, usb has a significant current drop beyond 16 feet. For two, USB is 5v DC, with some protocols able to use higher voltage/amperage for charging, but doorbells are usually around 16v to 24v AC and that’s what your doorbell will expect if you’re hooking up the terminals. Modifying the plug end of a usb cable won’t help you out as it’s wholly incompatible. Your real options are: Can you run a cable? If so get a PoE doorbell and use a PoE switch or plug in an adapter next to your router and use the single line for data and power. This also cuts down consumption of an already crowded wireless spectrum. Fix your transformer. Is the transformer itself bumpkused? Is it just not getting power? You’re going to have to break out the multimeter again and verify power output. If it’s not getting power, follow the wiring back and see if it’s disconnected from a junction box or a breaker on the panel is turned off. Oftentimes it’ll be split off the basement lights circuit somewhere. Don’t forget to have the multimeter set to AC, and a voltage sniffer is also a good idea have and use here as well so you don’t accidentally come into contact with line voltage thinking the power is off.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:54
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Blackchamber posted:My doorbell doesn't work. The previous owner was using one of those wireless transmitter ones stuck over the original. I checked the wires for power with a multimeter where the switch used to be and at the transformer and both spots are dead. I could try finding where the power cable that should be tied into the transformer ends and why its not working anymore but I don't really want to use the old doorbell at all really. I bought one of those smart video doorbells and if my wiring had worked would have provided power as an alternative to the built in battery that would need topping off now and then. The benefit of having it wired is the doorbell can be in a more active recording mode. can you take a pic of the transformer and the wires running to/from it? I wouldn't really recommend splicing in a USB connection on both sides and runnign it it off of the powerbank, you'll end up with some voltage drop, and likely will drian the USB powercell somewhat quickly as it'll just keep tryign to "top off" the doorbell on a regular basis.
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Jan 14, 2021 12:54
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Elviscat posted:Another problem you're going to run into with a propane heater in a well sealed garage is moisture, since those ones that are rated to run indoors still produce tons of water vapor as a product of combustion, if you run that thing for long you'll turn your garage into a sauna. The garage isn't heated at all. Hence the need for a heater.  (It's pseudo insulated, as it's a walk-in garage under the house, so the sides are concrete surrounded by earth. The back wall to the basement is insulated, as is the ceiling.) And I don't know why, but I've always seen CO detectors near the floor and just assumed that's where they go. TIL that's wrong. That's useful info! Time to return the bullet heater.
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Jan 14, 2021 15:16
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:(It's pseudo insulated, as it's a walk-in garage under the house, Stop right there. Do not heat spaces that are UNDER your living area with a heater like that. Even if you CO detector doesn't go off there's the possibility that it's migrating up and into your living area.
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Jan 14, 2021 16:43
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Yeah, I had a plumber in yesterday to handle some unrelated stuff, and asked him about putting in a NG heater. The issue of venting is still there, though. There's just no good place to vent a heater from the garage. (His suggestion of coring a 5" hold in the foundation is a non-starter.) He did have an interesting idea of installing a Hydronic heater running pex from the boiler, but ultimately I think it makes more sense to just install Electrical since I want more outlets and some 220's in there anyway.
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Jan 14, 2021 17:28
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Yeah, I had a plumber in yesterday to handle some unrelated stuff, and asked him about putting in a NG heater. The issue of venting is still there, though. There's just no good place to vent a heater from the garage. (His suggestion of coring a 5" hold in the foundation is a non-starter.) He did have an interesting idea of installing a Hydronic heater running pex from the boiler, but ultimately I think it makes more sense to just install Electrical since I want more outlets and some 220's in there anyway. What are you trying to do in your garage? Like what's the purpose of heating it? My house has an under house garage similar to yours I found the key to keeping it comfortable was to never open the garage door in the winter (plus making sure it's well sealed, I put in new weatherstrip etc.) Then I just used a a small radiant electrical heater and would point it at myself for woodworking. Usually after 30 minutes or so I would be hot enough to turn the heater off and be fine for quite a while.
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Jan 15, 2021 01:54
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floWenoL posted:So I'm trying to remove a countertop soap dispenser (to install an air switch for my garbage disposal), but I'm having a hell of a time doing so. Okay, so I got a vise grip like someone recommended to hold the top, and it hits against the backsplash so I don't need someone to hold it. However, when I try to twist the nut, it really is stuck. I'm still using a regular wrench (vertically) and another vise grip, so I can't get that much leverage, but from the videos I've seen of basin wrenches, I'm not sure if they'll be able to grip the nut as well. Any advice on the next thing I should try? 
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Jan 15, 2021 08:48
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Have you tried PB Blaster or similar (not WD40)? I wonder if a socket could fit on it and then some appropriate extenders for the space, might let you get better torque on it without slippage.
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Jan 15, 2021 09:31
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floWenoL posted:Okay, so I got a vise grip like someone recommended to hold the top, and it hits against the backsplash so I don't need someone to hold it. However, when I try to twist the nut, it really is stuck. I'm still using a regular wrench (vertically) and another vise grip, so I can't get that much leverage, but from the videos I've seen of basin wrenches, I'm not sure if they'll be able to grip the nut as well. Its hard to tell from the picture, but is it possibly a reverse thread? If you have a dremel, you might consider getting a cutting disc and cutting through the nut.
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Jan 15, 2021 12:27
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That is almost certainly basin wrench territory, that’s exclusively what they’re designed to do. Only other thing to try is a socket and some extenders and see if that’ll do you.
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Jan 15, 2021 14:29
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If you don't care about the soap dispenser just use a pair of vice grips to crush the top and rip it right off.
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Jan 15, 2021 15:38
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Jerk McJerkface posted:If you don't care about the soap dispenser just use a pair of vice grips to crush the top and rip it right off. This. I mean you're not going to remove your dishwasher. What does it look like if you pull the pump part off? Pull hard on it straight up and see if you reveal a nut or something. Hard enough to destroy it.
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Jan 15, 2021 17:28
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Thanks all! I'll try a bunch of stuff.H110Hawk posted:This. I mean you're not going to remove your dishwasher. I was afraid to leave it in a half-state without more tools, but once I get some tools, I can try this! Edit: wesleywillis posted:Its hard to tell from the picture, but is it possibly a reverse thread? Good question, I half-heartedly tried to twist it clockwise, but I might have to try again once I get some better tools. floWenoL fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 19:41
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I made some poplar window stools to replace the ugly yellow fake marble ones that were original to the house and the window guys put them in with my replacement windows. They are not painted. My wife wants to paint them white. What type of paint should I use that can hold up best against potted plants being scooted around, and maybe a little bit of spilled water?
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Jan 16, 2021 15:42
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Go to your paint retailer of choice and get their best product that's made for trim, doors, and cabinets. Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane or Ben Moore Advance would be top of my list. Use an appropriate wood primer if the wood isn't preprimed. Do 2-3 coats and follow manufacturer instructions regarding dry time between coats. I'd let the paint cure for at least a week if not two before putting anything heavy like potted plants on it. The correct time between coats and before heavy use goes a real long way with those high end enamels in allowing them to cure properly and be as durable as they're capable of.
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Jan 16, 2021 16:08
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Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane has turned into the only paint I use on trim, doors, jambs, etc--I love the stuff. All the stuff that makes wood work look grimy over time wipes right off. We tend to have muddy dogs that will lay against the baseboards. A wipe with a damp cloth and the baseboards look like fresh paint even after a a few years.
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Jan 16, 2021 22:01
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tangy yet delightful posted:Have you tried PB Blaster or similar (not WD40)? I wonder if a socket could fit on it and then some appropriate extenders for the space, might let you get better torque on it without slippage. This ended up working! I had to get an extra-large socket (30mm), but with that and an extender I was able to get enough leverage to get it turning. Thanks all! 
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Jan 17, 2021 07:40
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I moved to a new apartment that has a drywall "semi" partition (not sure of the correct term for this - it's not completely dividing the room, it's an incomplete wall with four corners in the middle of the room) in the living room. The previous resident had a tv wall mount installed on this divider by the local electronics chain's installation service. They used 3 8mm molly bolts (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_(fastener))) and the wall is ~25mm thick - it kinda looks like it's two 12,5mm boards on top of each other. Here's a pic:  This should be completely fine to hang a 47" / 12kg TV + mount on, no? Also, can I put something on the other side of the wall within the limits for those drywall boards or do I need to worry about the load on the entire structure?
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Jan 17, 2021 12:55
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So we got an Ikea Nordli headboard and it uses what is basically a french cleat to attach to the wall. They don't include mounting screws because it is sold worldwide and different places have different wall materials. I am in the US where it is all drywall. What type of screw should I be using, and consindering it is a pretty heavy headboard, what kind of drywall anchor should I be using for areas I don't hit a stud?
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Jan 17, 2021 15:14
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