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Old Swerdlow posted:Arrgh. I’ve been trying to spray some metallic paint through my airbrush the past two nights and it keeps clogging instantly. I’ve been using VMC paint, but I may have to try my bottle of VMA instead tonight since it’s better formulated for airbrush use. I really don’t remember having such issues before though. What type of brush and what is the needle size? I could not spray VMC metallics through my renegade Krome with a .3 needle without it clogging. I gave up and only sprat metallics with my 105 now.
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Jan 8, 2021 07:49
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Yeah I run the vallejo metal colours through my old .4 airbrush with a tiny bit of flow improver. much nicer colour this time with a heavier metallic layer! More deep red and less brown. 
Sultan Tarquin fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jan 8, 2021 |
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Jan 8, 2021 16:38
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I've started on my next project before I've taken pictures of the last as the weather has been too miserable in the middle of the Australian summer to get decent pictures. While I wait for my paint, replacement decals and detail set to arrive from Melbourne I thought I'd crack on with the bits of painting that I know won't be affected by the detail parts which mainly cover the vents on the front wing and the part where the exhaust comes out of the bottom of the body work. The kit is tamiya's 787B but not the new boxing with a white plastic body but the one with a sea of bright orange plastic. Pictures of the process are below (just a little masking and plenty more to go).    Next steps are to mask off the painting I've done when it's properly dry so that I can prime the remainder of the body white before breaking out the fluro orange and green. There is the option to use the kit decals to do the green sections but I'd prefer to paint them for a smoother overall finish and also because I don't trust the nearly 30 year old decals despite them being printed by cartograph.
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Jan 9, 2021 08:12
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First time I've seen this much mold release on a kit:
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Jan 9, 2021 09:58
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You know it’s quality when you have to wash your hands after opening the box. 
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Jan 9, 2021 10:02
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Midjack posted:You know it’s quality when you have to wash your hands after opening the box. I've had a couple of older tamiya kits that have been rather greasy after opening the box but they're also kits that have been sitting in the box for 30 years so I dunno if that's part of it tbh.
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Jan 9, 2021 10:05
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I've started on my next project before I've taken pictures of the last as the weather has been too miserable in the middle of the Australian summer to get decent pictures. While I wait for my paint, replacement decals and detail set to arrive from Melbourne I thought I'd crack on with the bits of painting that I know won't be affected by the detail parts which mainly cover the vents on the front wing and the part where the exhaust comes out of the bottom of the body work. The kit is tamiya's 787B but not the new boxing with a white plastic body but the one with a sea of bright orange plastic. Pictures of the process are below (just a little masking and plenty more to go). Looking forward to watching this one come together. I really want to get my hands on a 787B kit but man they're hard to find. I did the Toyota 84C kit a bit ago and it was fun. All I want to build lately are Tamiya race cars.
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Jan 9, 2021 20:21
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Looking forward to watching this one come together. I really want to get my hands on a 787B kit but man they're hard to find. I did the Toyota 84C kit a bit ago and it was fun. All I want to build lately are Tamiya race cars. I looked for about 2 years for one of these kits and it was only a chance encounter on facebook that got me this kit. As I mentioned yesterday I needed to take photo's of the last kit I finished which becuase it was sunny I took some shots of my last build. It is tamiya's rather ancient Porsche 956 kit with zero paints used for the body, a scale motorsport detail up set and replacement decals from msm creations which where nice but also the thickest decals that I've ever used and they where an absolute pain to lay down on the body work. I also attempted to complete the engine bay as close to the prototype as I could which is part of why its taken me close to a year to get this done.      
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Jan 10, 2021 02:18
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Very very cool. Nice work.
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Jan 10, 2021 04:33
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my wife bought a vintage dollhouse, for the purposes of restoring. it's 1/12 scale and fuckin rules. anyone have advice on what types of wood she should use for things like crafting wooden shutters, door frames etc? she can buy premade stuff online but wants to handmake as much as possible
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Jan 10, 2021 23:40
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:my wife bought a vintage dollhouse, for the purposes of restoring. it's 1/12 scale and fuckin rules. anyone have advice on what types of wood she should use for things like crafting wooden shutters, door frames etc? she can buy premade stuff online but wants to handmake as much as possible A lot of what can be said on this subject for model ships can also be said for dollhouses. Suggest starting here, from one of the resident model shipwrights in this very thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3148869&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=462#post511038335 And possibly look at the scraper sets that are out there for making moldings and other architectural features too.
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Jan 11, 2021 00:25
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More boat stuff. The stuff I'm working on isn't very exciting to watch in pictures right now. I faired the other side of the hull, but nothing to see different so I didn't take any pictures of that. After the hull is faired, the next step in boat building is to figure out how many planks you need, and 'line out' the hull so you know where to put them. Well the number of planks on this model are known, as it's done off of an existing design, so I don't have to figure that out. I know it has 9 strakes (planks) all the way from bow to stern. There are no stealers or drop planks, so it makes things somewhat simpler, but it's still important to go through the process of marking all of the bulkheads to make sure the planks flow properly and will look good when done. Step one is pretty boring and time consuming, but really no way around it. First I make a bunch of 'tick strips'. These are just paper strips that are used to transfer measurements. I cut these out of manila folders as they are reasonably stiff and work well for this. Step one is to hold the 'tick strip' against the keel and along one of the frames, and mark the very top of the frame. Now my little tick strip has the length along the outside edge of that frame. Step two is to take that 'tick strip' and put it on a planking fan, which is simply a piece of paper with a bunch of lines on it, move it along the fan until the 10th line (for 9 planks between the lines) lines up with one end of the strip and the 0 line is lined up with my mark. I then use a pencil and transfer all the lines in between onto the tick strip. I use the square to keep the tick strip perfectly vertical and consistent and the planking fan is taped to the desk. Here you can see a tick strip for frame #2 with all the marks made on it.  Step three is to go back to the frame and transfer all these marks from the tick strip to the frame, again with a pencil.  This is repeated for every single frame on both sides of the hull except for the first three frames at both ends which are not marked.  Here all the marks are transferred to the frames.  Next I use pinstriping tape and working from frame #1 I place the tape along the marks I've transferred to the frames, and then sort of 'eyeball' the last three frames. This gives me a rough 'lining out' for the planks so that I can visually see how my planks will look if I follow my marks. The last three frames to the stem I just want to get to flow nice.   By sighting along the tape lines I can see where I need to adjust my marks slightly because my marks on some frames are slightly disrupting the smooth flow of the plank lines, as can be seen in the above photo. In the photo below I've adjusted the tape runs to smooth out the little places where it was slightly off.  Normally this would be the end of this step and I would move on to the next section, but the designer of this kit provides some cook templates to lay along the sternpost and see where my tape-lines are compared to the actual planking plan as designed.  As you can see, the lines I selected are a bit off from the design, so I use the template to make some new marks and then adjust the tape run across the last three frames to the transom.  At this point the transom and the 3 frames ahead of it, along with the other frames where there were adjustments made are remarked, and this 1/4 of the hull lining out is complete. I'll double check this against the template tomorrow when my eyes aren't as tired, and then move onto the bow on this side, and then repeat this process for the other side. After that the planking will begin. End of boring boat update.
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Jan 13, 2021 06:11
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The boat looks cool and it's good to see the construction process. I've made a little more progress on my 787B kit mostly focussing on getting the body painted so that once I'm back at work I can plug away at things like decals in the evenings. Like a silly person I decided not to use the kit decals for the green sections of the livery which has lead to a rather large amount of masking needing to happen. Once the green is on it should look pretty impressive even before the decals get applied. It's also not a major deal if the areas between colours are a little fuzzy as these will get covered by the dashes that deliniate the different colours on the car. I've also fitted the photoetched vents to the front of the car as these needed to be orange. The images below show the process.    
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Jan 13, 2021 06:47
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That's a bold move spraying the green instead of using the decals but I think you'll be glad you did. The green should look a ton better going over white rather than the orange.
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Jan 13, 2021 14:12
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:That's a bold move spraying the green instead of using the decals but I think you'll be glad you did. The green should look a ton better going over white rather than the orange. It was a choice between spraying the green or trusting the 30 year old decals that came with the kit as the replacment set doesn't come with that sort of decal at all. In the kit decals there are a pile of white decals that go under other decals and I might end up using a few of them as a block between the orange and the decal so that the white comes through correctly. It's also the most masking I've ever had to do for a single paint job so while it's kinda annoying it's a way of pushing my skillset a little further. I've sanded down the ridge between colours lightly but still want to leave the paint a full 24 hours to harden before I mask off the orange to do the green then a layer of clear to level things out before decaling which is a step I don't normally bother with but will in this case.
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Jan 13, 2021 14:28
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The Locator posted:More boat stuff. The stuff I'm working on isn't very exciting to watch in pictures right now. I’ve been following Acorn to Arabella for a while now, and lining out is the most unexpectedly intricate thing. They were trucking right along and then BAM, lining out took like six episodes.
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Jan 13, 2021 14:43
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MrYenko posted:I’ve been following Acorn to Arabella for a while now, and lining out is the most unexpectedly intricate thing. They were trucking right along and then BAM, lining out took like six episodes. It's a very important step on a model if you want it to look nice. I imagine it's even more important on a project like Acorn to Arabella where you not only want it to look nice, but you want to know how much wood to get, and also not waste any as it's incredibly expensive! Watching Leo building the Tally Ho it really struck me how large the pieces of wood need to be to cut out the shapes and sizes needed, and just how much of the wood is just waste, it's pretty incredible.
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Jan 13, 2021 16:38
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The Locator posted:
I still remember the eye-crossing headache I got when he was trying to explain the 1:1 scale lofting he was doing, how it worked, etc. Boat looks great so far though!
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Jan 15, 2021 00:53
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Vorenus posted:I still remember the eye-crossing headache I got when he was trying to explain the 1:1 scale lofting he was doing, how it worked, etc. Boat looks great so far though! That's why I just work off of plans that somebody else went through the headache to make!
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Jan 15, 2021 01:04
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final update on the Mazda 787B until the decals and clear are done at some point later on. The masking for this is the most complex I've ever tried and while there are a couple of issues they don't really affect the overall effect of the model. All of the border areas between colours will get broken up with dashed line decals which will make it look rather sharp. The second photo demostrates just how bright the orange is and it still doesn't quite come close to reality. 
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Jan 15, 2021 08:28
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So my Valejo Primer (basically latex rubber) has decided to gum up not one but two different airbrushes tonight. Most nights it goes on with no problem, it was probably a pressure problem or humidity or something. Some nights there's no fun to be had  at least Dr. Garbanzo's Mazda is pretty. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Jan 15, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 09:02
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 PE is really hard. My shaky hands are struggling with the railing for the gun platform. Otherwise going ok.
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Jan 15, 2021 13:41
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Jonny Nox posted:So my Valejo Primer (basically latex rubber) has decided to gum up not one but two different airbrushes tonight. Most nights it goes on with no problem, it was probably a pressure problem or humidity or something. I've definitely had days where everything comes out a mess for no clear reason. As in I'm running the same pressure, with the same brush, and it sputters like crazy or immediately gums up. Sometimes you just gotta walk away from it before things get worse.
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Jan 15, 2021 13:49
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:final update on the Mazda 787B until the decals and clear are done at some point later on. The masking for this is the most complex I've ever tried and while there are a couple of issues they don't really affect the overall effect of the model. All of the border areas between colours will get broken up with dashed line decals which will make it look rather sharp. The second photo demostrates just how bright the orange is and it still doesn't quite come close to reality. They call it fluorescent orange for a reason  . That looks great, dude. I can see a couple of the "issues" you mentioned if I look real hard for them, but yeah, the dashes should break them up nicely. I was going to paint my light switch cover in the Renown colors to match my Martini one but didn't have an orange nearly as obnoxious enough to pull it off.
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Jan 15, 2021 14:53
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Greetings, chums. With this pandemic and my city's (half-assed) new lockdown measures, I've felt compelled to take up some sort of constructive, indoor hobby. I was looking around at LEGO sets, even Warhammer, all things I've enjoyed constructing in the past. But as something of a casual aviation and automotive enthusiast, I landed on picking up some model airplanes and possibly some cars and motorcycles later down the line. I ordered some 1:72 and 1:144 models - a P-51, a Spitfire, a Tomcat and a Harrier, you know, the kind of planes for dudes who say they're "into planes" but don't really know anything outside of popular media. I also ordered some Tamiya extra-thin cement, a Touch-N-Flow applicator (thanks to the very informative and concise OP), and a small folding table so I can sit on the floor and glue stuff while watching TV, since space in my room is at a premium. I'll pick up some X-Acto knives and sandpaper (what grain?) from the local hardware store soon, anything else I should grab while I'm there? I'm curious how these models are going to look. Good photos are difficult to come by, if the retailer even has any pics that aren't just the box top. Also I have a hard time wrapping my head around scale. Painting, priming, if it's even necessary - not my strong suits but I'd like to learn. Display is another concern, since almost every inch of my room is occupied by something - I'm looking around now thinking of creative ways to rearrange things and install some small shelves on the walls. But since I'm primarily interested in building airplanes, I'm curious what kind of solutions y'all have found for flying them? My plaster ceiling is high enough to need a stepladder but that'd be the coolest way to display things in here for sure. I have some thoughts about photography as well, considering it's one of my more serious hobbies. Assuming these models are anything to write home about, I'll probably want to shoot them before displaying them. I'm assuming the best way to do this is with a light source or two, and the fastest glass possible. My 50mm f/1.8S should do the job, but I was playing around with it the other day wishing its minimum focal distance was even closer. Cropping down will probably be necessary, I'm also thinking maybe one of my telephotos, further away but zoomed in, would be a better solution - people seem to get some interesting 'almost macro' shots of insects and stuff, that way. Anyway this introduction post kind of got away from me. Curious to see what you guys think about the display and photography questions, but this was mostly just to say "hi".
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Jan 15, 2021 20:02
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It's probably easier than you think to find out of the box images of your models, as long as they're not crazy obscure. https://www.scalemates.com is also a great resource for info about any given kit, and will often include galleries and reviews. Which particular kits did you grab?
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Jan 15, 2021 20:33
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The kit in specific matters. As "how good the kit is" becomes a big deal. You should also look into some putty. None of the 144th scale kits I"ve used would look even "ok" without putty.
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Jan 15, 2021 22:13
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Putty, I'm assuming for smoothing out seams? Yeah I figured these aren't going to look fantastic as my first foray into models since childhood.grassy gnoll posted:Which particular kits did you grab? Revell 1:144 BAe Harrier GR.7 Revell F-14D Super Tomcat 1:100 Revell Supermarine Spitfire Mk.VB Revell P-51D Mustang
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Jan 15, 2021 22:17
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Mister Speaker posted:Putty, I'm assuming for smoothing out seams? Yeah I figured these aren't going to look fantastic as my first foray into models since childhood. You asked about grits. The roughest you might want is 400 grit, though since these are 72nd and smaller, 600+ Even up to and including 1500 grit. You're going to be in for a lot of hand work. Every Revel kit I've built has needed..... Well the P-61 i'm working on has ejection pins on every seam. Also more flash than 80's elton john. The P-40 I built, had mold errors so bad that I basicly had to build the wheel fairings from putty, and completely shave off one pin on a wing to allow the wings to close. I don't recall if my 1:144 tomcat revell or not...
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Jan 15, 2021 22:23
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Mister Speaker posted:Revell 1:144 BAe Harrier GR.7 These should have some manufacturer's photos, at the very least. A lot of the model companies out there will also have their own galleries, depending on how big they are. You can typically get a glamor photo like these, but finding bare spures are harder to come by unless you start digging into reviews for each item. I wasn't sure what scale Mustang you had, but you get the gist of it. Revell wouldn't be my first choice to get someone hooked, but not all of their kits are a pain. Definitely don't let it put you off 1:144 - it's pretty finnicky and detail-oriented, but a really good tiny kit can be really rewarding, since you can do the whole thing from start to detailed finish in a weekend, or less if you're really monomaniacal about it. Sweet is my go-to for 1:144 planes, but they tend to be WWII prop planes only. Platz has also been pretty nice, and they have a wider range of subjects. Some of Eduard's 1:144 planes are their own pressing, and some are rebadged kits from other manufacturers - check Scalemates to see the whole production history of a given kit. I hope you have a lot of fun with your planes! grassy gnoll fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 15, 2021 23:28
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grassy gnoll posted:I hope you have a lot of fun with your planes!
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Jan 16, 2021 03:42
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do not listen to satan when he whispers of 1/144 photo etch
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Jan 16, 2021 03:43
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1/144 scale manufacturers I've built and my opinion on the kits fo theirs that I've built: Revell: Largely good, like everything else Revell you might get an older mold but their Braille Scale stuff is pretty good Superb: F-14 (!!), F/A-18E/F, Eurofighter Good: E-2D (holes in bottom, details missing), Tornado, A-10 (scale issues), all WW2 planes, B-2, F-117, F-15E, F-16 Poor: Nothing comes to mind Trumpter: A collection of modern jets. Very Nice kits Superb: SU-27, F-22 Good, Poor: Nothing Dragon: Mostly good, some kits have bad/no cockpits, frequently come as 1+1 kits Superb: F/A-18E/F/G (much better than the Revell kits), H-60, B-1B, Good: Tornado (smoke the glass, now you've fixed the kit's problems), Poor: Kfir, Minicraft: Minefield, lots of bad old stuff with modern gems liberally mixed in. Don't even think of looking for detailed cockpits/flightdecks READ REVIEWS! Superb: B-52 Good: B-17, B-29, PBY-5A, A-26 varients, Lancaster Poor: F-4, F-111 For 1/72 stuff: I'm not going to list the kits I've built, but here's my thoughts when browsing the Model Aisle of my FLHS: Revell: Safe. Nothing they make is going to make you feel bad when done. I've just done their F-4 and the kit is old but goes together well, and looks good (from a few feet away) Exception: most WW1 planes Tamiya: Prop planes best, jets are generally Italeri reboxes (This is changing) Italeri: Cheap, but not good. Frequently fail the "look the part" test. Very bad instructions. I just finished their Intruder. It was good. Immediatly before that I threw their F-16C in the garbage. Acadamy: Safe and good. I've never built an Acadamy model and not loved the result. Airfix: Good. Full stop. With the giant caveat that they've only been good for a decade. If the box looks like it's been kicking around awhile, back away. Hasegawa: I could write an essay about my experience with Hasegawa. My favorite result ever is the Hasegawa A-10C. Used to be the only serious player in the game, but their tendancy to rebox old kits as "Special Editions" has burned me a couple times. I really hate how they try to keep detail up by breaking the fuselage into more pieces since that means that you introduce more and more error into the fit of each following piece. And then you're breaking out the putty, then details aren't lined up, then you file right though the side of an intake. Exuse me I need to go sit in a quiet room for awhile. edit: Other note I've just thought of: Italeri and Hasegawa are often your only option when you're looking for a specific subject in this scale. For Hasegawa, at least you can usually make a great model (apperently) if you spend more money on after-market kits. edit 2: Build an Airfix Spitfire in 1/72 I don't care about the Mark. Now you have a baseline for what to expect from a "Good" kit. Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 05:35
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So I've been going back and forth with a guy who says he has plenty of the type of wood I need to make my giant scratch build ship, and he told me that he would send me a sample package so I could see the quality of the wood before I decided to buy a bunch of it and make an 8 hour drive to pick it up. I told him that wasn't necessary, just pictures or something would do. He insisted though and I'm not going to argue over that and screw up the deal. I figured he would send a few small pieces, maybe cut into sheets or something. Today a package was on my doorstep, and from the length (just under 2') I figured it must be the wood, so I reached down to grab it with my left hand, and holy poo poo.. it's heavy! Took it inside and opened it, and this is apparently what he considered a 'sample'.  Lol.. the 2 chunks of Pearwood are 2" x 3-7/8" x 20", the Castello Boxwood is 2" x 3-1/2" x 20" and the Degame is 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 19" and there are two of them. Ignoring the Degame - the chunk of Castello would probably cost about $45~55 to buy from Gilmore. The Pearwood probably close to the same per piece.. So dude sent me like $120~$160 worth of wood (plus whatever it cost to ship) as a sample. Holy crap. Each one of these chunks would probably be enough to build my Armed Virginia Sloop out of in it's entirety if I milled it properly. Pretty good day in the ol' shipbuilding hobby even though I didn't do any shipbuilding!
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Jan 16, 2021 06:03
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This is the Acadamy M1126 Stryker in 1/72 I LOVED building this model. Mostly done while gazing through a magnifying lamp. Ignore the now missing bits. I have no carpet in this room yet still must make the sacrifice.   This is the Italeri KA-6D Intruder in 1/72 I was really liking this model, but the decals were THICK and bascially didn't respond to microsol at all. Nontheless I was quite please with the result until I tried to weather it and it became a smeared mess. Whatever, hit it with flat and I'm happy....enough. 
Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 06:25
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The Locator posted:
That's insane. Did you tell him what you do? or does he think you're a furniture maker? Either way, nice haul! edit: if you're a wood turner it that's a much more reasonable amount of wood.
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Jan 16, 2021 06:42
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Jonny Nox posted:That's insane. Nah, he knows what I am looking for the wood for. He used to run a company that supplied parts for model ship makers, things like blocks, rope, and I think milled wood. He closed the business and retired right about the time I was getting into the hobby, but I never tried to get anything from him because he never got 'modern'. He accepted personal checks or money orders prepaid via US Mail only and was kind of hard to get in touch with. When he retired he just closed up shop, never had any sort of clearance sale, and apparently still has a bunch of wood, so I plan to trade some money for as much of it as I can reasonably get my hands on! I'm waiting to hear back from him on just how much he has, and how much he wants for it, after which I'll make arrangements to get whatever he has, or whatever I can afford! Edit: For the Young America model I'm planning to build, I'll need about 15 chunks of wood this size in the pear, and another 10-12 in the Castello, although less than that if I use the Degame for the masting. Regardless I'm going to get just as much as I possibly can so I never have to worry about getting wood again hopefully, as it's getting ridiculously difficult (and expensive) to source these days. The Locator fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 08:04
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Made a slight bit of visible progress on le' boat. In my last post I had started lining out the hull for planking. I finished lining out the hull on both sides, and after this comes the planking. I only took one more picture of the lining out, as it's pretty much all the same. The planking on this kit is different than any kit I've ever done before. All the planks are pre-spiled, meaning that they are cut to match the shape of the hull already (they aren't just straight boards) and all I need to do is stick them on! Lol.. not really. They are pre-shaped, but they are still flat pieces of wood and the hull is all curvy, so it still takes a lot of heating and bending/twisting of the wood before it will fit into place. I had to do a bit of adjusting at the bottom of the frames where they meet the rabbet, but I expected that. I did struggle a bit with the curve on the first plank, it kept wanting to pull away from the keel in the center and it took a lot of tweaking and time to get it to where I thought I could hold it in place while gluing. The kit maker suggests using CA glue (superglue) to rapidly secure the planks, but I hate superglue for the smell and how easy it is to stain wood, and I always make a huge mess when I'm trying to use it, so I'm planning to do 100% of the planking using PVA wood glue, hence I need to hold the planks in place with clamps of some sort unless they lay in place perfectly. Since I failed at perfection, I clamped. Garboard plank on the starboard side goes in first, stern piece and then the bow piece.       Then I repeat the process on the port side, which went a bit faster.     At this point I decided that protecting the nice keel from my stupid clumsy hands was probably a good idea, so I used painters tape to mask it off.  The planks on these longboats were secured using copper nails. For this model this is simulated by using 10# black poly fishing line and inserting it into holes drilled with a #77 drill. In the instructions this is done much later after the planking is complete, but I decided to follow the lead of several others who have built this model and drill and place the nails as I go, while it's easier to see the frames and hopefully not miss them with the hole. I decided to just use a hand held pin-vise to hold the drill as the wood is fairly soft and using the Dremel would probably lead to disaster. The poly is dipped into white PVA glue so that it can be cleaned up easily later, and then stuck into the holes and trimmed short with a nipper. After it's dried the lines will be cut off flush with a flush cutter and then sanded smooth. I'll probably do the final sanding smooth after all the planks are on. Currently only the one side has the nails, will complete the other side today before moving to the next planking strake.   
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Jan 17, 2021 19:24
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A while back I posted about a Bandai Studio Ghibli Flaptter model I picked up, and then put on a shelf and forgot about while life got very busy. I finally got round to ordering the Mr Color paints and a matching white primer and made a start on it today.  Cockpit, some tidying up required, it's hard to get the edges of the dials neat.  Started on the body with a couple of coats, couple of spots need attention and I may put another coat on. Enjoying it so far, more body panels to do tomorrow, plus finishing up the cockpit and putting some light weathering on.
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Jan 17, 2021 19:32
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 13:08 |
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I haven't put together a non snap together kit in more than 15 years. I sometimes build Gundam robots because even when I did put model kits together, I sucked at painting. I want to buy something and was eyeballing the Airfix 1/35 M3 Stuart Honey kit. It looks fairly simple to get together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9RHfYvEwlo That's not too ambitious coming back into this hobby is it?
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Jan 18, 2021 06:59
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