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Enos Cabell posted:You're not really burning anything in a gas fireplace, so there isn't any ash to worry about. There is a big difference between wood burning and gas fireplaces. Actually this brings up a good point. Our last place had the exact same kind of gas setup but it was a wood burning fireplace with a gas lighter and the gas was only used to get the wood started. This one has the same type of gas setup as far as I can tell but maybe it is intended to be a non-wood burning gas fireplace where the gas stays on and heats up the stone "logs"? How do I tell the difference? Edit: either way I'll check for leaks, thanks for the advice on that. I've emailed the guy we bought it from for more info and if he can't help I'll get an expert out. D-Pad fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jan 10, 2021 |
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Jan 10, 2021 03:05
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Last house was a gas starter but wood burning, pretty awesome. Current one is just fake logs and it sucks, specially since it just vents everything straight into the room. My wife has expressed an interest in having a real, proper chimney installed so we could go back to wood. I don’t even wanna begin to think about those quotes even if it would be a relatively “easy” install all things considered.
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Jan 10, 2021 03:26
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D-Pad posted:Actually this brings up a good point. Our last place had the exact same kind of gas setup but it was a wood burning fireplace with a gas lighter and the gas was only used to get the wood started. This one has the same type of gas setup as far as I can tell but maybe it is intended to be a non-wood burning gas fireplace where the gas stays on and heats up the stone "logs"? How do I tell the difference? Yeah I think the only item of significance there is if your chimney works or not. If it does you should be able to start a fire in there. The only think I think I'd check would be to make sure that that gas-line attachment can handle having coals around it.
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Jan 10, 2021 04:31
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devmd01 posted:Last house was a gas starter but wood burning, pretty awesome. Current one is just fake logs and it sucks, specially since it just vents everything straight into the room. Which is funny because one of my backburner remodel projects is to remove a chimney. Of the three chimneys in the house, one has been almost completely removed, a second has been capped off below the roofline, and the third just sort of exists, drywalled in. Eventually I want to put a gas log fireplace back in there, but I don’t have a good spot for the mantle. Meanwhile the one capped off under the roof just takes up space and makes the kitchen kind of awkward.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:21
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Welp. For some reason the Samsung french door fridge (RF4287HARS) in this rental won't dispense ice anymore. It gladly makes ice, it gladly dispenses water but it's stopped returning ice out of the dispenser. No loving idea why. I've disconnected and reconnected the door wiring harness but no joy.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:23
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My house was built in 1929 and I have a copy of the original plans. There is a room off of the kitchen that is currently a breakfast nook that was originally listed as the "break room". WTF is a break room? Any idea what the original purpose of this room was? There's a room in the basement that used to be for coal storage. There was a chute from the front yard into it for loading of coal.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:36
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luminalflux posted:Welp. For some reason the Samsung french door fridge (RF4287HARS) in this rental won't dispense ice anymore. It gladly makes ice, it gladly dispenses water but it's stopped returning ice out of the dispenser. No loving idea why. I've disconnected and reconnected the door wiring harness but no joy. Bad switch for the motor which operates the auger, or the motor itself is toast, is my guess.
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Jan 10, 2021 06:44
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MrChrome posted:My house was built in 1929 and I have a copy of the original plans. There is a room off of the kitchen that is currently a breakfast nook that was originally listed as the "break room". WTF is a break room? Any idea what the original purpose of this room was? Literally a breakroom for the maid/housekeeper, or a casual space for coffee talk.
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Jan 10, 2021 08:09
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luminalflux posted:Welp. For some reason the Samsung french door fridge (RF4287HARS) in this rental won't dispense ice anymore. It gladly makes ice, it gladly dispenses water but it's stopped returning ice out of the dispenser. No loving idea why. I've disconnected and reconnected the door wiring harness but no joy. I have no useful advice except Samsung makes poo poo appliances. Great TVs & phones, but absolutely terrible appliances.
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Jan 10, 2021 14:04
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RoomSketcher still the HCH/Home Zone-endorsed layout/modeling software? Our kitchen is incredibly poorly designed, and we're planning to do a complete gut and rebuild in the spring/summer timeframe. We're trying to plan it out now, and I'd like to be able to iterate on a handful of different layouts for the counters and appliances relatively easily (more easily than CAD, for instance). Also this will absolutely not be the last question about this project.
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Jan 10, 2021 17:40
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Some Guy From NY posted:I have no useful advice except Samsung makes poo poo appliances. Great TVs & phones, but absolutely terrible appliances. Can confirm. Currently replacing a Samsung dishwasher with a Bosch. Eyeing Samsung washer, dryer and refrigerator with extreme suspicion. PO must have gotten some kind of poo poo appliance package deal or something.
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Jan 10, 2021 17:56
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Some Guy From NY posted:I have no useful advice except Samsung makes poo poo appliances. Great TVs & phones, but absolutely terrible appliances. From what I understand, Samsung’s appliances are generally as or more reliable than other stuff on the market, but their servicing has not kept up with their increasing market share. So, a failed compressor or something else that could be repaired just can’t be fixed for love or money because they don’t have much in the way of parts distribution, and nobody will work on them.
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Jan 11, 2021 05:01
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I mean, if a compressor shits the bed... is that not enough reason to just replace the fridge in most cases? I'm not the biggest fan of my Samsung fridge but at least the parts I have had to throw at it (all water supply related) weren't hard to come across or expensive. But it's over ten years old now and if anything expensive on it goes, I'm buying a new fridge.
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Jan 11, 2021 06:14
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Speaking of fridges, I've got a fairly old Kenmore that just started being 2/3x louder than normal when turning on. Is this a sign of a compressor problem?
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Jan 11, 2021 07:05
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OSU_Matthew posted:From what I understand, Samsung’s appliances are generally as or more reliable than other stuff on the market, but their servicing has not kept up with their increasing market share. So, a failed compressor or something else that could be repaired just can’t be fixed for love or money because they don’t have much in the way of parts distribution, and nobody will work on them. Since the topic is up, I know people love Bosch for dishwashers, what about a fridge? Not needing one right now but you know whenever the Samsung we have breaks it'd be good to know back in my mind.
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Jan 11, 2021 08:49
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El Mero Mero posted:Speaking of fridges, I've got a fairly old Kenmore that just started being 2/3x louder than normal when turning on. Is this a sign of a compressor problem? Coils and such clean? I've got a few appliances that make their maintenance/cleaning cycle known by being "a bit louder"
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Jan 11, 2021 16:15
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tangy yet delightful posted:Since the topic is up, I know people love Bosch for dishwashers, what about a fridge? Not needing one right now but you know whenever the Samsung we have breaks it'd be good to know back in my mind. Two resources to check: https://blog.yaleappliance.com/ https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/ They both have generally good recommendations and insights. Last November I bought a GE side by side fridge for 800$ because Wayfair had them half off and I stumbled across it slickdeals. Supposed to be delivered here sometime in February, so we’ll see if that actually pans out. Just praying we don’t have any fridge issues before then  One thing I was reading on Yale’s reliability report was that GE is now owned by Haier and seems to be doing pretty well for the new ownership
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Jan 11, 2021 19:57
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crossposting this from the January 2021 thread in AI... Long post, but I've had probably more than the normal persons experience with appliances in the last 8ish years. in 2013, i remodeled my (former) house. I had GE dishwasher, GE range, GE over the range microwave, LG fridge & LG washer & dryer. Absolutely no issues in the 3.5 years I was in that house with any of the LG appliances. The GE dishwasher would leak from one corner and damaged my floor. I had GE technician come out and couldn't find a problem, even though my floor had visible water damage from the corner where it was dripping. My GE range would burn food if it was placed on one side of the oven. GE tech actually admitted he owned the same GE range and had the same issue. His suggestion? Use convection so the fan blows the heat around inside. Then at another point the stove igniter kept clicking away - it needed a new wiring harness. At the same time, my mother also bought all new - and the same exact appliances as me. Her GE range also burns the food if cooked one on side. Last year, in 2020, a metal fan blade in the microwave broke off, shattering a plastic cover and fell into the microwave while it was on. Microwave burst into flame right in front of my mother who was cooking on the stove. Luckily she was able to shut it down immediately. She called GE who sent out a tech to see what happened, the actual tech who came, didn't give a poo poo that it could be a manufacturing defect and simply told us "you need a new one." She bought an LG microwave, no problems yet. I moved into a new house in 2017. We have all the appliances that came with the house, except for the range which we bought new, an LG. My wife says this is her favorite range she's ever used. Our other appliances are, LG washer & dryer, Maytag Fridge, Bosch dishwasher, Frigidaire over the range microwave. No problems with any of them so far. They Maytag fridge is as quiet as can be, the only very low noise it makes is when refilling the ice maker. The bosch dishwasher does leave plastic containers wet, but my former GE dishwasher also did. Both my LG w/d from my last house and this one, are the top of the line with steam options. No problems with either. edit: microwave after it caught fire. The plastic container inside was not inside when it caught fire, it has the fan blade and plastic cover that broke off from that circular opening at the top.  Now for Samsung appliances... The in-laws bought a new house/all new appliances in 2018. Samsung everything. Within 3 months they replaced the Samsung fridge because the compressor literally sounded like an idling diesel engine. They had a tech come out who said "it's normal." I heard it and can confirm how loud it was. It actually drowned out the TV in the living room which was separated from the kitchen by a wall. This last November, right before thanksgiving, they replaced the Samsung range, because it needed a THIRD new motherboard. They bought a GE range as replacement, against my suggestion. My grandfather in 2019 bought a different model Samsung fridge...it also has a noisy compressor but not as badly as the inlaws model. I know this is all anecdotal evidence, but that is my personal experiences anyway. Some Guy From NY fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 20:05
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That GE story reminds me of a Whirpool dishwasher I bought new around 2009. Kept having weird issues, techs kept coming out and replacing parts, finally one tech pointed out how the inside of the door wasn't molded properly but he couldn't explain how and suggested just giving up and returning it. Have owned some Siemens/Bosch poo poo both while I lived in the US and now here in Sweden and gotta say I have been very pleased with their stuff. I temporarily strayed when we build the new kitchen and I wanted to use Samsung fridge/freezer since they were nice and quiet and very roomy. But one was DOA so back they went and I got another pair of Siemens instead.
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Jan 11, 2021 21:01
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I think I know the answer here and this may be less of a question post and more me just trying to get my thoughts written down, but I am curious to see what goon opinions are on this: So I'm in the process of doing a bunch of ceiling and wall repair in my living room before I paint it and replace all the trim. I've already replaced a few existing outlets and added a couple new ones because I had a new circuit installed to handle the load of a bunch of computers and entertainment devices. My house is 80yo and the wiring is mostly original and ungrounded, except for a few outlets here and there where someone added a ground wire after the fact, or where I have since replaced them and updated the wiring. There are 2 outlets left in this room that are untouched and I've reached a bit of an impasse- I can't decide how far I want to go with replacing the wiring. I've already had the service panel upgraded and replaced in this house, and have replaced a bunch of easily assessible wiring in the basement, and had electricians run a couple new grounded circuits to key places. I was thinking my goal should be to rip out 100% of this old wiring and update it slowly as I go room to room remodeling this house, and so far this has been kind of easy. But the outlet I was going to start on next is a bit tricky, I don't have clear access to it from the basement because a furnace trunk line is directly underneath that spot and they drilled through a joist to even get the wiring up there in the first place. This outlet is also in the middle of a circuit-- I can easily move it and everything downstream onto a new circuit I just installed but I have no access to everything upstream without busting holes in multiple walls beyond the living room and whatever would be required to re-run wire to an exterior light. Now I don't have to replace the wiring upstream at all and could just rewire the living room outlet and everything coming off of it, but at that point I'm now back to wondering if there is a point in rewiring it at all? Besides lacking a ground and being extremely dusty, all the wiring I can see seems to be in fine condition. But if I'm going to try and rip out all the old, I'll have to put some more holes in the walls since wiring to switches etc isn't accessible to me now from underneath. Since I'm already patching holes and am preparing to do a bunch of sanding, should I just bite the bullet and do this now vs years down the road when I'll need to cut open finished walls and remove my brand new trim? Should I even be caring about this, considering the wiring is fine and I probably won't even be living here in 10 years anyway??
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Jan 13, 2021 15:29
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I bit the bullet and replaced every single thing in my 1937 vintage house, and I can tell you I sleep a _lot_ better after having yanked out all that aging poo poo together with various creative add-ons that had been done during the decades. Then again, it was a pretty simple operation since I live in a civilized country where even in an 80 year old house there's conduit running between everything.
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Jan 13, 2021 19:27
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Pray for me, for this weekend (assuming the materials arrive on time,) I will be undergoing the tedious process of running network cable in my house. Just starting with two rooms, living room and office, only a 2 jack panel in each (since I currently only have an 8 port switch, plus 3 ports on the router itself, so if I run 2 jacks to every room that's 10 of the 11 ports used.) Though honestly, I can probably get away with just a 1 jack panel in the two bedrooms so I can have 4 jacks in the office and behind TV. It shouldn't be THAT hard, given that it's a single story ranch with full basement giving easy access to the interior of the walls above. Thankfully, the TV is on an interior wall, and my desk in the office is against a corner that has an interior wall, as well. Right now that's all I plan to run, though maybe also to the bedroom for the Apple TV in there. Again, thankfully, it's against an interior wall. Not that having to fish through a little bit of insulation is that hard, especially coming from below instead of above, but I'd still rather not have to.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:14
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I've been working on updating the wiring in my 1955 house, both professionally in difficult areas and on my own in exposed areas, and it has led to some significant peace of mind after opening up junction boxes and finding wires taped together with adhesive that turns to dust when touched  I replaced nearly all the outlets and switches when I moved in and that too was a simple exercise that left me feeling better.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:15
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DrBouvenstein posted:Pray for me, for this weekend (assuming the materials arrive on time,) I will be undergoing the tedious process of running network cable in my house. This is on my to-do list as well. It sounds like we have a pretty similar situation house-wise but I'm not a networking-smarty guy so I'm not sure what all to look out for. What's the best option for network cable when considering future-proofing? We have gigabit fiber so CAT 6a, CAT 7?
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Jan 13, 2021 20:19
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DrBouvenstein posted:Just starting with two rooms, living room and office, only a 2 jack panel in each (since I currently only have an 8 port switch, plus 3 ports on the router itself, so if I run 2 jacks to every room that's 10 of the 11 ports used.) Though honestly, I can probably get away with just a 1 jack panel in the two bedrooms so I can have 4 jacks in the office and behind TV. Run 2 cables everywhere you're making an effort to add a jack. It is a minimal increase on effort when you're already running one, and you might end up using it in the future. Assuming you're using a patch panel, you don't actually have to connect it to anything while it's not in use.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:31
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Double post because I just some radon test results back. Had one done when I bought the place a bit over a year ago and the results were ~0.5 pCi/L iirc. Meant to retest after I had a bunch of foundation work done but procrastinated a bit, just did a new test last week and it came back as 7.0 pCi/L. (You are supposed to take action for any value higher than 4.0 pCi/L) Good thing I have a brand new sump pit to stick a blower pipe into I guess.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:41
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If you are running lots of ethernet--think about maybe planning for future PoE (power over ethernet) security cameras. Long flexible drill bit with a hole in the tip (fish bit), a fish tape, and a fish push/pull sticks make the job a little easier. Oh, and multiple boxes of cabling too--so you can pull multiple runs at once.
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Jan 13, 2021 20:46
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DrBouvenstein posted:Pray for me, for this weekend (assuming the materials arrive on time,) I will be undergoing the tedious process of running network cable in my house. Seriously, just run more cable than you think you need. No point in running 1 cable when you can just as easily pull a second cable at the same time. Sure, you only have an 8-port switch now, but switches (especially unmanaged ones) are dirt cheap, and a 16 or 24-port switch isn't going to break the bank down the road if you need it. There is no need to hook them all up to a switch right now if you aren't going to use them, but you might as well run an extra cable to each location to prevent you needing a little 4-port switch in the room down the road. I have run 2, 2-cable runs to each of our bedrooms, and 3 pairs of cables into our office, spread around the rooms. I have less than half of them currently actually hooked up to gear in my network rack. As a result, the only place I have actually needed a remote switch in a room is an 8-port I have feeding all of our home theater/game consoles/etc.
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Jan 14, 2021 05:47
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you can also run a string in lieu of a second cable for later use. you should run the string anyway.
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Jan 14, 2021 06:28
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falz posted:I opted for 1) and 4) which became 'use IKEA's NYTTIG microwave bracket the wrong way'. Just an updated post here, I was sink-less for about a week while I had floor installed (3 days) and then finally was able to install bottom counters, they measured, and a few days later i had countertops. It's now a few days after that and I've got all drawers assembled, installed, so it's starting to look finished. When i had someone install floor, i switched it up from ditra underlayment (orange sheets of lego-like stuff) to Ditra-HEAT, which is almost the same, but you put in a heating coil in the 'knobs' of the underlayment. Extra $500 or so but f it, i'm in a cold environment, so floor heat for the win. Waiting for 100% completion to turn it on though. I'm still missing some stuff from ikea - above fridge cabinet, and some of the finished cover panels, but hey i have a working near complete kitchen that's in moderately good shape. re-posting the original render/plan as well for comparison, it's fairly accurate. As you may have noticed, I made one huge mistake - the peninsula shows the wood floor where the toekick was. I planned it to be hidden, but didn't take in to account the toe kick. My ghetto plan is to sand it and stain it to be same colour as the tile. If that doesnt work.. well ill maybe cut it out and attempt to lay tile there.    
falz fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 21:04
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What I would do is get whatever you used for the back of the peninsula, rip a 3” or whatever the height of the toe kick is and then just basically build out the toe kick to be even with the tile.
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Jan 16, 2021 21:50
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It looks good! Are you planning on doing a backsplash? I feel like it needs one. Also I need the backstory on the rotary phone there.
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Jan 16, 2021 21:52
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Looking great!! Don't know if you noticed, but there is an ancient rotary dial phone hanging out in your modern kitchen!? As for the toe kick area--is it flush with the tile? Flush--you'd almost need to epoxy the area to make it not turn into a dirt magnet. If it is below the tile, maybe glue on some LVT pieces that look similar? The disparate floors could become an issue if there is a water accident...
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Jan 16, 2021 21:59
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My wife wants some shelves hung, and we have some studs there, which is good. My stud finder shows me where ac power is as well. Of course it's detecting it near the stud. How do I make sure I don't hit the wire. The stud finder shows the 'middle of the stud' - is that reliable? For reference it's a Zircon HD900
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Jan 17, 2021 00:53
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The Slack Lagoon posted:My wife wants some shelves hung, and we have some studs there, which is good. My stud finder shows me where ac power is as well. Of course it's detecting it near the stud. How do I make sure I don't hit the wire. The stud finder shows the 'middle of the stud' - is that reliable? For reference it's a Zircon HD900 I'm not familiar with that stud finder. Can you put it in a mode to detect just AC and see what direction the wire is running? Down the side of that stud is gonna be a lot different than THROUGH it, which, depending on age should have a metal plate between the stud and the sheetrock.
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Jan 17, 2021 00:59
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AFewBricksShy posted:What I would do is get whatever you used for the back of the peninsula, rip a 3” or whatever the height of the toe kick is and then just basically build out the toe kick to be even with the tile. I had considered this, but isn't the point of the toe kick area so you don't murder your toes? I'd assume you'd be stubbing always. Also I'm always barefoot at home so that may hurt. HycoCam posted:Looking great!! Don't know if you noticed, but there is an ancient rotary dial phone hanging out in your modern kitchen!? Sirotan posted:It looks good! Are you planning on doing a backsplash? I feel like it needs one. Also I need the backstory on the rotary phone there. Re phone: just a garage sale thing this summer, bought it to hang on the phone thing because it looked neat. However, once I had it, I had the desire to make it get a dial tone and make calls and stuff. The phone is of course built like a tank so its fine. Whenever i can have folks over again post-covid, it'll just be a fun 'omg does it work' party favour thing. I wrote up some instructions a few months back if anyone looking to do the same: https://falz.net/wiki/Rotary_Phone_POTS_VoIP_Line It probably won't stay here because of the long cord, but I do want to keep it hooked up, the area is open to the dining room and living area, so ill see if I can move it in there, and maybe just blank out the phone jack here. OR put a table top phone there, i also bought a rotary one of those too. Re: backsplash - It wasn't really in the original plan, but i had a suggestion on one that i'll probably do.. a bit later. This dark herringbone pattern, and this is the colours together (ignore the tile behind it, i didnt go with that for the floor) 
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Jan 17, 2021 03:15
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csammis posted:This is on my to-do list as well. It sounds like we have a pretty similar situation house-wise but I'm not a networking-smarty guy so I'm not sure what all to look out for. What's the best option for network cable when considering future-proofing? We have gigabit fiber so CAT 6a, CAT 7? Even cat5e is rated for gigabit and is still the default for home and business runs. Unless you have factory crimping to reduce the noise, there is functionally not much difference between cat6 and cat5e for home runs, especially as pretty much anything you’ll be connecting it to with have a gigabit NIC. The next step up, 10GbE, is primarily used as the backplane for stacking switches and servers, and you’ll primarily see that being used with optical cabling and SFP connectors. Optical is extremely fragile and doesn’t like bends, so it’s not very good for running through walls, and I don’t think we’ll ever see consumer devices with SFP NICs, outside of switches and other racked gear. That being said you should go ahead and run cat6 anyways, it’s the same price or cheaper. Only caveat being it’s more twisted to reduce crosstalk, so it’s slightly more annoying to crimp than CAT5e cabling, but not that much worse in my experience. Seconding running some twine as well in case you want to pull anything again, and think about PoE placement for stuff like sensors, wireless access points, cameras, etc. Honestly, the only runs I did in my house were to 1st and 2nd floor wireless access points, exterior cameras, one to my den for the entertainment console (to a switch feeding various consoles, roku, etc), another to the living room (another switch supplying smart home controllers and some compute resources in the shelves), and one to my office so I can mess with lab stuff without having to go to the basement. I wouldn’t worry about having a run to each room to plug a desktop into beyond say an office space, or an entertainment area. Hell, a lot of modern computers don’t even have an RJ45 port in their NIC. Just think about what you want to accomplish and go from there, don’t worry about trying to future proof anything because 802.11AC is more than adequate for most people to do most things. Don’t forget to map out where you want your central terminus to be and buy a patch panel to protect the in wall runs from overuse and failure. And don’t forget to tag and label runs and keep good documentation (eg a spreadsheet in your google docs or whatever).
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Jan 17, 2021 04:57
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Seconding the sentiment of don’t go way overkill with drops. Sure, if you’re gonna pull one pull two in a lot of cases but yeah you don’t need to saturate every room/wall with ports. I went overboard in my first house and ran a quad drop behind my desk...never ended up using more than two. Also most people don’t need a full blown wall mount rack, the 2-3u ones that mount on the wall and a 1-u 12port keystone panel to terminate drops into are plenty. Speaking of, don’t just buy a regular old punch down patch panel or wall plate; always buy keystones. It costs more but the modularity is nice to have - one of the ports on my panel is an rj-25x tied in with the house pots wiring so I can plug in a SIP ATA adapter. Then again don’t listen to me I tend to overbuild everything that I do. 
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Jan 17, 2021 13:21
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OSU_Matthew posted:Just think about what you want to accomplish and go from there, don’t worry about trying to future proof anything because 802.11AC is more than adequate for most people to do most things. I'm glad to see some reasonable recommendations about this. It seems like everywhere I've seen this discussed on the internet, nerds go insane and recommend dozens of drops per room. As I type this, I look over at an unused, double RJ11 jack that the the previous owners have sprinkled all around the house. Wireless keeps getting better, and most devices don't even have ports or wouldn't make sense to tether to a wall. It makes sense to ensure at least 1 (or 2 for redundancy if one is damaged) drops to a dedicated office room, an obvious area for mounting an AP (or 2 depending on house size), and possibly the main TV media area. Beyond that, it's just wasting money and effort for ports that will probably sit unused forever.
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Jan 17, 2021 15:43
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Yeah I invested in an Eero pro over Black Friday so I can have two points of tri-band WiFi 6 and it’s pretty nice to pull over 600mbps for all of my, *checks notes, shitposting in Awful. Actually we started to have some congestion when we added two 2k WiFi cameras and it was affecting my work from home calls so we did that and upgraded our plan to gigabit.
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Jan 17, 2021 15:47
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