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Tezer posted:[useful info, thank you]
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Jan 25, 2021 20:45
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HycoCam posted:Use those bolts to hold the fan junction box in place. That's the issue, those long bolts weren't holding the light; the electrical cables and wood screws in the drywall were. The fixture fell out of the ceiling when I applied any pressure to it. The box that was up there was secured by a single bolt in the middle of the bracket, and was jammed up between the longer bolts, which have been cut too short to reach anything. I've tried to get a new box up there and the bolts don't reach far enough to mount it up. I'm at the hardware store now, ill edit this post with pics to explain what I mean when I get back. Edit: Ok I misremembered, the box wasn't jammed between the bolts, the bolts were slotted through the box.  But, they were not securing the box at all, the single middle screw was. In fact, the long bolts are cut down to be as long as the bottom of the junction box:  This is a problem because the mount for the fan requires those long bolts:  This looks like a hackjob that I'm going have to get in the attic space and rip out to do over, doesn't it Sandwich Anarchist fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 20:56
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Sandwich Anarchist posted:That's the issue, those long bolts weren't holding the light; the electrical cables and wood screws in the drywall were. The fixture fell out of the ceiling when i applied any pressure to it. The box that was up there was secured by a single bolt in the middle of the bracket, and was jammed up between the longer bolts, which have been cut too short to reach anything. I've tried to get a new box up there and the bolts don't reach far enough to mount it up. It looks like you can loosen the nuts holding the longer bolts in place and slide them inwards a bit then retighten. If that works you can probably score a box that you can make them work with.
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Jan 25, 2021 21:31
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unlimited shrimp posted:Is there anything I can do to monitor for bulk water short of spending a pile of cash on a good infrared camera? Even that won't really help. Like, imagine every morning you measure out a 1/4 cup of water and carefully pour it into a funnel that dumps it into your wall cavity. That's not a lot of water, certainly not enough to show up on a thermal camera, but it's more than enough to wreck part of the wall over the course of a couple of years. You can get moisture sensors, but they tell you a lot about the micro (what is going on within 12 inches of the sensor) and nothing about the macro (what is happening in the rest of the wall), so acute issues like bulk water may never show up on a moisture sensor. I had a house where we took off this beautiful clapboard siding, like 70+ years old, looked great. Under one replacement window though, maybe done ten years earlier, they had hosed up a bit of the flashing and about 25 square feet of solid board sheathing was just trashed. Couldn't see it at all from the exterior. Have the exterior inspected, let the inspector know you are very interested in whether any of the siding or flashing doesn't look right even if it seems minor. Make sure the roof overhangs the walls, this will knock most of the moisture away from the siding and greatly reduce any possibility of problems. Don't let me frighten you though, it's just as easy if not easier to mess up a new house in the same ways. It's just with an old house you might be taking a really old mistake and turning it into a very new problem.
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Jan 25, 2021 21:31
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Sandwich Anarchist posted:That's the issue, those long bolts weren't holding the light; the electrical cables and wood screws in the drywall were. The fixture fell out of the ceiling when I applied any pressure to it. The box that was up there was secured by a single bolt in the middle of the bracket, and was jammed up between the longer bolts, which have been cut too short to reach anything. I've tried to get a new box up there and the bolts don't reach far enough to mount it up. Are you sure those are actually bolts and not just threaded rod screwed into nuts welded onto bracket? You can unscrew the old cut rod and screw replacement longer rods in their place. If they are welded bolts maybe see if there is enough thread left to use coupling nuts and extend with threaded rod.
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Jan 25, 2021 22:00
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iv46vi posted:Are you sure those are actually bolts and not just threaded rod screwed into nuts welded onto bracket? This is what I was coming to say. They are absolutely threaded rod. You can see the nut that's tack welded to the bracket in the photos.
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Jan 25, 2021 22:10
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I'm finally starting to see the endgame in a basement refinish after a couple water damage issues. Note: Mudding a ceiling sucks. Question: I'm looking at about 750 sq ft of carpeting. I've got 2 dogs that rumble hard. We've got existing carpet (apartment grade) that was new when we moved in about 14 years ago. It's definitely shown wear, but has held up to a lot of use and dog fights. With that -- what should I be looking for? Home Depot / Lowes, or a specialty carpet store? I know padding makes a huge difference, but I don't know how much tangible difference there is between apartment grade at $.70/sqft and high end at $2.50/sqft. Both areas to be carpeted are over 17' in their shortest length, so seams are going to be necessary. What parameters do I need to keep in mind as I go forward?
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Jan 25, 2021 22:13
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EVERYWHERE 
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Tezer posted:Even that won't really help. Like, imagine every morning you measure out a 1/4 cup of water and carefully pour it into a funnel that dumps it into your wall cavity. That's not a lot of water, certainly not enough to show up on a thermal camera, but it's more than enough to wreck part of the wall over the course of a couple of years. You can get moisture sensors, but they tell you a lot about the micro (what is going on within 12 inches of the sensor) and nothing about the macro (what is happening in the rest of the wall), so acute issues like bulk water may never show up on a moisture sensor. Thank you!
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Jan 25, 2021 22:52
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My wife and I are redoing the flooring on the upper level of our house, replacing the carpet with vinyl plank. It's going well and that's no issue, but the stairs were carpeted and now that we have that garbage torn off and are able to look at the stairs, we've run into some issues. It's a right-hand open staircase with two 90 degree turns and two landings before you get to the top floor. The treads are typical pine for a carpeted setup and the risers are plywood. The railing and balusters are that classic late 00's honey oak colonial setup, sturdy as hell but looking outdated (mainly that honey oak coloring). Our thought was simply to stain the treads and cut 1/8" Masonite boards for the risers (painted white) so we didn't have to remove the railings, but since there's no actual tread to start each landing and at the top of the staircase, we have a bit of a problem. There's just a piece of wood with a radius as the nose to start each landing and then the landings themselves are plywood, same as the upper subfloor. It would seem that this just became an expensive job, as the treads measure anywhere from 44" to 48" depending on which section of the staircase they're in. What options would we have here? The railing is almost certainly going to have to come off now, and looking at how it was built, I don't think it will come apart intact (each spacer piece on the underside of the handrail has no mark for a finishing nail so I assume they are glued in) so it'll need replacing as well. My first thought was just to get tread caps made up. Is there any way to do anything without having to replace the whole handrail? Each tread has 2 balusters attached to it on the right side. The left side goes inside the stringer. Apologies if this isn't clear, the whole situation has me stressed out.
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Jan 26, 2021 01:33
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Some guy who owns 2 empty lots on the corner of the street one road over from my house is trying to re-zone the lots to be a commercial lot that can sell alcohol for offsite consumption among other things. Basically a prime spot for a lovely corner convenience store, of which we already have plenty. One lot is currently residential and sits right next to a house. The other lot is just a paved parking lot, and was previously used by the church across the street for parking. It backs up to 2 houses on my street. It's currently zoned as some flavor of commercial already, but I assume that's what it defaulted to after it was sold because it was probably zoned for park/church/community use when the church owned it. What's the best method for arguing it? The guy that owns them lives on the other side of the city so I'm not worried about pissing him off because he's not my neighbor.
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Jan 26, 2021 01:53
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VERTiG0 posted:Apologies if this isn't clear, the whole situation has me stressed out. Post pictures. If you didn't budget to redo the stairs, the affordable option is going to be reinstalling carpet on the stairs.
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Jan 26, 2021 01:54
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Tezer posted:Post pictures. I'll snap some tomorrow when I've got daylight again. Budget isn't the problem, it's the 
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Jan 26, 2021 01:58
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SpartanIvy posted:Some guy who owns 2 empty lots on the corner of the street one road over from my house is trying to re-zone the lots to be a commercial lot that can sell alcohol for offsite consumption among other things. Basically a prime spot for a lovely corner convenience store, of which we already have plenty. One lot is currently residential and sits right next to a house. The other lot is just a paved parking lot, and was previously used by the church across the street for parking. It backs up to 2 houses on my street. It's currently zoned as some flavor of commercial already, but I assume that's what it defaulted to after it was sold because it was probably zoned for park/church/community use when the church owned it. Call your municipal office or city hall and find out what the process is for re-zoning so that you can anticipate the guy's moves. After that your best bet is probably to talk to your neighbors and get some sort of petition together, especially if re-zoning requires a vote of some sort.
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Jan 26, 2021 03:33
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SpartanIvy posted:Some guy who owns 2 empty lots on the corner of the street one road over from my house is trying to re-zone the lots to be a commercial lot that can sell alcohol for offsite consumption among other things. Basically a prime spot for a lovely corner convenience store, of which we already have plenty. One lot is currently residential and sits right next to a house. The other lot is just a paved parking lot, and was previously used by the church across the street for parking. It backs up to 2 houses on my street. It's currently zoned as some flavor of commercial already, but I assume that's what it defaulted to after it was sold because it was probably zoned for park/church/community use when the church owned it. Make all your neighbors aware of it and get as many as possible of them to show up to whatever planning/zoning commission meeting (or write? Idk how that stuff is working during covid) and be angry about it. Blow up your NextDoor if there is one. Knock on doors. Write to your city councilor and get your neighbors to as well. Get them worried about the bright lights in the parking lot being on all night and all the trash and traffic it might generate etc etc etc. be the scary local news guy saying they want TO SELL BATH SALTS TO YOU ARE KIDS!!!!! Read the zoning regs of your city and find the part where it says you can’t sell booze across the street from a church (oh yeah make sure all the congregation members know they are gonna start selling liquor across the street). Basically go kick the hornets nest of angry neighbors.
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Jan 26, 2021 04:43
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Enjoy convenient alcohol sales
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Jan 26, 2021 10:41
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peanut posted:Enjoy convenient alcohol sales Never underestimate NIMBY mobilization.
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Jan 26, 2021 13:18
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Well crud. The inspector decided that the header through an opening in a load bearing wall in my basement, the one that's been there since it was built 30+ years ago, is 5/8" too low. Technically it's right at the lowest it can be, without floors/ceilings. Anyways, so he goes "yeah just cut the top plate above it and move it up." Unfortunately it doesn't seem so easy. With the bulkhead where it is and the joists being two pieces that meet on top of the header, I'm quite unsure of how to tackle this.   I don't really have a question - I doubt anyone can really see enough to give advice without being here (though any thoughts are welcome!) - I think I'm just venting. loving homes.
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Jan 26, 2021 15:31
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5/8"? please. Couldn't you just.. trim the beam by that much? Signed - an engineer but not one relating to structure.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:09
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falz posted:5/8"? please. Couldn't you just.. trim the beam by that much? Signed - an engineer but not one relating to structure. Could I? I honestly don't know what the tolerances on this kind of thing are, or if that's even a big enough question I could pay an engineer for. I don't know what kind of load it was sized for really. My understanding is that a header shouldn't be notched that much, and it's effectively a giant notch that we're talking about.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:11
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peanut posted:Enjoy convenient alcohol sales That's not even my issue with it. There's a Walgreens/CVS across the major roadway from it(and another one across the road from that one), and 2 liquor stores about a block away from that. My issue is we're pretty loving saturated and we need homes instead of convenience stores in a neighborhood.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:13
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Jenkl posted:Well crud. Quick answer: steel. Just replace the header with steel. You'll pick up several inches.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:30
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Jenkl posted:Well crud. They don't accept previously signed off permits for something that petty? Are they worried that by the time you add sheet rock and flooring the walkway will be too low and people will hit their head?
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Jan 26, 2021 16:34
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Motronic posted:Quick answer: steel. Just replace the header with steel. You'll pick up several inches. The primary issue I'm having isn't even "how to get the additional head room", though steel is a great option there (and I just learnt the term "Flitch plate"), but rather "how to brace the joists while effecting said repair." You can see because of the side with the bulkhead, even if I raised the header, I'm still limited there. That area is super short too, but has room for floor/drywall unlike the header, before breaching the code requirement. There's very little room because of HVAC/pipes, and I can't just put the wall on the side without the bulkhead, since the joists are two pieces that meet over the header. The nearest clear area would be ~3-4' away, on the opposite side of the HVAC. I can put a support there, but I worry that's too far away. My current leading option is to see if I can't rent a jack post for each joist and slot them up there. Even if I had to cut duct to hit bearing I can patch that. Then a temp wall on the side without the bulkhead. Then snip snip!
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Jan 26, 2021 16:40
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H110Hawk posted:They don't accept previously signed off permits for something that petty? Are they worried that by the time you add sheet rock and flooring the walkway will be too low and people will hit their head? He claimed they can't know if it was properly permitted before. Which sounds like some BS tbh. I don't want to get into a code quoting contest, I will lose, but maybe if I send some pictures of the obstacles it will put things in perspective. One of the avenues I'm pursuing is just seeing if I can't talk him out of it. He spent so little time here I don't think he'd have realized that what he's asking isn't really as straightforward as one may like. EDIT: You know, I oddly enough have original drawings stamped by the city that have been left with the house since it was built. Technically they're stamped "approved for zoning only" but maybe that'd be enough to get them to agree this place was looked at before and should be grandfathered... Jenkl fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jan 26, 2021 |
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Jan 26, 2021 16:42
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Jenkl posted:He claimed they can't know if it was properly permitted before. Which sounds like some BS tbh. I don't want to get into a code quoting contest, I will lose, but maybe if I send some pictures of the obstacles it will put things in perspective.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:49
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Jenkl posted:My current leading option is to see if I can't rent a jack post for each joist and slot them up there. Even if I had to cut duct to hit bearing I can patch that. Yeah, can't really tell from your picture how challenging this will be but the answer always comes down to lally column or similar. And yes, sometimes you have to get creative with threading some short pieces of 2xwhatever through all the poo poo in your ceiling.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:50
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Motronic posted:You'll pick up several inches. 
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Jan 26, 2021 16:52
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falz posted:Out of curiosity how high is that spot? is it standard door height? No (std door is 80"?). It's 6' 4-1/2", the minimum allowed here. The Bulkheads are at about 6' 5-1/2". So 1/2" drywall + 1/4" vinyl plank and I'm still ok. For the record I'm not tall so these heights don't bother me. The inspector had at least a foot on me, so maybe it's a personal vendetta for them, haha. The actual problem apparently is egress. So I learnt that a sliding door does not count as a means of egress - I missed that in the code while planning this. That means the only "official" way out of the basement is a side door, that requires you to pass under that header. Hence the problem.
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Jan 26, 2021 16:57
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Jenkl posted:Well crud. Two temporary beams parallel to the existing but offset on each side to make for working room and supported by screw jacks. I would make them longer then the one you’ll be removing to spread the load more evenly. Then go to work removing accessible nails from the beam and possibly remove both jack studs, then crow bar the beam out. Replace with steel if possible and put the jack studs back.
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Jan 26, 2021 19:08
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Jenkl posted:He claimed they can't know if it was properly permitted before. Which sounds like some BS tbh. I don't want to get into a code quoting contest, I will lose, but maybe if I send some pictures of the obstacles it will put things in perspective. Not saying to get into a fight, just a conversation. If you have the stamped drawings and signed final permit it can help you out. Whenever you figure out the plan of action I would get this inspector involved to make sure they're OK with it. In that same conversation you could pull them out and ask if it really needs to be done because I found X and Y? If they say yes, do it. We had one or two things like that with our office outbuilding where tearing the drywall off uncovered all manner of atrocities. Sometimes you get em on a good day, and we never "fought" it was always conversational. Save the fight for when it's necessary. Though with egress on the line, you're unlikely to get much variance, I'm surprised a sliding glass door doesn't count.
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Jan 26, 2021 19:32
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Motronic posted:Quick answer: steel. Just replace the header with steel. You'll pick up several inches. I didn’t know you were a marriage counselor too! e;f;b, I should have read through. Oh well, I will leave my shame intact. devmd01 fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jan 26, 2021 |
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Jan 26, 2021 23:30
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falz posted:5/8"? please. Couldn't you just.. trim the beam by that much? Signed - an engineer but not one relating to structure. Iawtp. Just file it away in a cute arch shape.
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Jan 27, 2021 01:11
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falz posted:5/8"? please. Couldn't you just.. trim the beam by that much? Signed - an engineer but not one relating to structure. Very no. Unless your structural engineer is OK with it. Motronic posted:Yeah, can't really tell from your picture how challenging this will be but the answer always comes down to lally column or similar. And yes, sometimes you have to get creative with threading some short pieces of 2xwhatever through all the poo poo in your ceiling. Looking at that, generally I believe the inspector indeed is right about what they think is a fix and you should be able to remove the top plate and then put the beam there, then connect the side top plate to the beam using something from Simpson (probably some form of strap). To do that, you'd need to jack up the joists under a beam using a couple of 2x4s while doing the beam replacement. But then that would also require Simpson hangers for the column since you're doing work there (one of these) https://www.strongtie.com/postcaps_capsandbases/category https://www.strongtie.com/sdsscrewcolumncaps_columncaps/ccq-eccq_productgroup_wcc/p/ccq.eccq I'm not a structural engineer though, and the structural engineer would typically lay this out in their plans. But realistically, the inspector is stupid and the 'violation' here is so minor and has no impact to the structure and this is way more work than should be involved. ntan1 fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Jan 27, 2021 |
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Jan 27, 2021 01:27
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I think we're all tip toeing around the obvious solution of grinding down the floor 5/8".
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Jan 27, 2021 01:41
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DrBouvenstein posted:I think we're all tip toeing around the obvious solution of grinding down the floor 5/8". Right I'd you can't raise the bridge lower the road!
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Jan 27, 2021 01:49
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I'm thinking of sanding and finishing the wood and concrete, and otherwise leave it "unfinished". Well call it an art piece you know really makes you think. Just that strip. At least until the final inspection.
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Jan 27, 2021 04:01
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DrBouvenstein posted:I think we're all tip toeing around the obvious solution of grinding down the floor 5/8". If you cut far enough down into the joists you could probably even fit a decent sized tub into there!
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Jan 27, 2021 04:10
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tater_salad posted:Right I'd you can't raise the bridge lower the road! Oh man, well I did some research and it turns out the town's water main runs only 1/2" below Jenkl's basement...and on top of that, the grading with the surrounding basement would be messed up. Just put up a sign with flashing lights if someone taller than 6'2" gets too close, put up a live stream to record when someone smacks their head into it anyway, and go about your life.
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Jan 27, 2021 17:31
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DrBouvenstein posted:Oh man, well I did some research and it turns out the town's water main runs only 1/2" below Jenkl's basement...and on top of that, the grading with the surrounding basement would be messed up. There is a house on Peaks Island near Portland, Maine that was used by the island water utility as an office and central pumping location. It was decommissioned and went up for sale, I don't think the main was under the house at that point (it was in the side yard I think), but the basement still had all the valving and distro piping in it.
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Jan 27, 2021 17:50
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DrBouvenstein posted:Oh man, well I did some research and it turns out the town's water main runs only 1/2" below Jenkl's basement...and on top of that, the grading with the surrounding basement would be messed up. It's ok I will put in a sump pump.
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Jan 27, 2021 18:32
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