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Speaking of sharpening blades, is that something that can be done in the shop or should you really try and find a place that does it? My Freud definitely needs some love
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Jan 29, 2021 05:33
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i'd never let another man sharpen my blades
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Jan 29, 2021 05:42
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Huxley posted:Down here we can get it off the shelf in any pharmacy, or pharmacy section of a big-box store. It's not really the kind of thing you need to source. We can too but the price/volume on the pharmacy bottles is absolute garbage vs. buying the gallons if you're trying to make a big batch edit: to be fair a few seem to have gone down in price and some of the .com bottle now ship cheaply enough cross border that might even be worth it. I did find a source for a 5 gallon pail that would do me for ages if I'm churning out some boards for xmas next year but need to do more research to make sure it's the same level of food safe. Toast fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 06:38
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Generalissimo
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How easy/hard is cherry to dye stain consistently? I just finished a project with maple and it was a pain in the rear end to keep it consistent.
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Jan 29, 2021 07:23
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Super Waffle posted:Speaking of sharpening blades, is that something that can be done in the shop or should you really try and find a place that does it? My Freud definitely needs some love John Heisz at Ibuildit.ca has a video on sharpening table saw blades on the table saw! It's not as stupid as it sounds. I just got my Forrest back from their sharpening service, cost me $65 (includes shipping, had to have a few teeth replaced). Totally worth it, this thing beats the pants off my CMT blades (about ~70 each).
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Jan 29, 2021 12:29
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Huxley posted:Down here we can get it off the shelf in any pharmacy, or pharmacy section of a big-box store. It's not really the kind of thing you need to source. Literally the same in Canada.
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Jan 29, 2021 13:24
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:How easy/hard is cherry to dye stain consistently? I just finished a project with maple and it was a pain in the rear end to keep it consistent. You'd probably need some kind of sealer/conditioner if you are worried about blotching problems, just like with maple.
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Jan 29, 2021 14:40
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Super Waffle posted:Speaking of sharpening blades, is that something that can be done in the shop or should you really try and find a place that does it? My Freud definitely needs some love I get mine sharpened by Ridge Carbide. They do an incredible job and will braze new teeth on, straighten the plate, grind the sides, etc. It's really impressive. And slow as hell! https://ridgecarbidetool.com/ If you're near a big city with lots of industry you probably have somewhere local that will do it as well. You can sharpen in the shop but it's also a bad idea. Carbide dust is awful and the geometry is simple but tiny imperfections will take a blade that leaves a glue line rip to a blade that leaves an awful burn and ripples. You can't straighten in the shop, either. e: examples of what you're looking for with local places, this is just a few of what's around here. http://www.uhrichsvillecarbide.com/index.html https://www.cammelsaw.com/ http://www.sawservicesupply.com/ They're the kind of places that make industrial cutters for shapers and molding heads, often lots of them will also be into metalworking stuff with bandsaw blades, HSS cold saws, that kind of thing. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 15:19
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Huxley posted:Down here we can get it off the shelf in any pharmacy, or pharmacy section of a big-box store. It's not really the kind of thing you need to source. Mineral Oil has a medical purpose, its a laxative. But you generally don't find a medical need for gallons at a time, so people source quantity options. I have a 65 gallon Rubbermaid in the kitchen with ~ 10 gallons in it 
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Jan 29, 2021 15:41
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JEEVES420 posted:Mineral Oil has a medical purpose, its a laxative. But you generally don't find a medical need for gallons at a time, so people source quantity options. This is fair, and I didn't think about it because I've always used the finish on small projects and never had a need to mix up more than 16 oz of oil at a time, which is a standard $2 bottle of the stuff at Target. I guess that way it comes out to $16 a gallon, but you might have to buy out the entire neighborhood to get to quantity.
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Jan 29, 2021 16:15
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e. beaten
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Jan 29, 2021 16:18
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NomNomNom posted:John Heisz at Ibuildit.ca has a video on sharpening table saw blades on the table saw! It's not as stupid as it sounds.  Upon watching that video, this is way beyond what I'm comfortable doing myself.
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Jan 29, 2021 17:56
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Super Waffle posted:
That's every Jon Heisz video for me. Him and Izzy Swan are basically "hey, if you say you're comfortable with that, I guess I can't tell you you're wrong"
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Jan 29, 2021 18:02
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Cleaning blades goes a long way with how well they cut. Hitting them with a wire brush when they gunk up and soaking them in Simple Green when they are really gunked up prolong the life significantly. Be warned that Simple Green will take off any paint on them so the red of Diablo blades or Markings come off. I tend to stick with Diablo or Freud Industrial (Amazon has some pretty good prices on industrial compared to specialty shops) and don't bother with sharpening them.
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Jan 29, 2021 18:08
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I’m getting tons of ads on Instagram for Woodpeckers tools and they certainly look nice. Are they worth a drat?
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Jan 29, 2021 18:47
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I think that depends on your need/disposable income. They offer some unique tools that have functions that no one else has. But you could also just use a combo square, a marking knife, and a marking gauge. I will admit to being interested in their tiny Delve square for the sole purpose of reliably setting my table saw blade to 45 degrees. Is there any better way to do that?
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Jan 29, 2021 20:45
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NomNomNom posted:I think that depends on your need/disposable income. They offer some unique tools that have functions that no one else has. I use a wixey angle cube.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:51
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NomNomNom posted:I think that depends on your need/disposable income. They offer some unique tools that have functions that no one else has. Digital Angle Gauge for like $25.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:52
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Huxley posted:This is fair, and I didn't think about it because I've always used the finish on small projects and never had a need to mix up more than 16 oz of oil at a time, which is a standard $2 bottle of the stuff at Target. It's significantly more than $2/$16 a bottle here too, I forget the exact price I paid but it was definitely in the $10 neighbourhood. And yeah it's a quantity thing for me. I handed out cutting boards to a few folks at xmas this year and I gave them each a couple little amazon containers full of stuff to take care of it so I went through a fair bit of the stuff. edit: the woodpecker setup blocks look very nice but $$$$ Toast fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 20:53
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Discomancer posted:I'm sure other people know way more about blades than me, but the premium blades typically have a lot more carbide on them so you can resharpen them quite a bit and they become a better value pretty quickly. They'll also generally handle heat/burning a bit better, deflect less, and anecdotally seem to have less tearout than the cheaper blades. Maybe that's just me trying to justify spending that kind of money on the Ridge Carbide. If you're throwing the blade out instead of resharpening it, then no they aren't worth the extra money. A nice blade will last you decades and you can keep your 10" even when you upgrade the saw, so just get the nice blade? They're not going to have more carbide per tooth, but it's going to be better quality and better bonded so a tooth doesn't knock off randomly during a cut, better toleranced. The blades will also be better toleranced, like not likely to warp. I've got one 12" blade that I think was touted as being teflon coated, but idk if that even does anything, since it's the teeth make contact. Like Kaiser said, idk if a $150 blade is twice as good as a $77 one. Maybe yes?
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Jan 29, 2021 21:40
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NomNomNom posted:I will admit to being interested in their tiny Delve square for the sole purpose of reliably setting my table saw blade to 45 degrees. Is there any better way to do that? I used my mitre saw and a protractor to make a bunch of angled blocks and labeled them. Not .0001% accurate, but good enough for me.
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Jan 29, 2021 21:42
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Rutibex posted:i'd never let another man sharpen my blades any man who attempts to sharpen my blades should be prepared to taste them
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Jan 29, 2021 23:06
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Mr. Mambold posted:They're not going to have more carbide per tooth, but it's going to be better quality and better bonded so a tooth doesn't knock off randomly during a cut, better toleranced. The blades will also be better toleranced, like not likely to warp. I've got one 12" blade that I think was touted as being teflon coated, but idk if that even does anything, since it's the teeth make contact. At least with Ridge Carbide and Forrest blades, they really do have far more carbide. The teeth are obviously still 1/8" (or whatever kerf) but are significantly taller and deeper than cheap or mid-range blades. They'll handle over a dozen sharpenings without any problem. Quality of the grind, plate straightness and everything else is obviously better too. Not vastly better than stuff like the Italian made Freud blades (which I think are about the best of the ~$80 range) but noticeable. Anything under that price point is sort of a throwaway blade once it's dull (actually dull, not just dirty).
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Jan 29, 2021 23:19
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I found this pallet in a trash pile on a construction site near my house. Seems like the slats might be usable, any easy way to tell what kind of wood it is? Cedar maybe? 
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Jan 30, 2021 05:11
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I'm getting a little nervous about the desk I'm making. Everything seemed to be going smooth so maybe this is just paranoia. After sanding and putting on a few coats of danish oil I'm left with this. First, I feel like there is some inconsistency to the shine which may just be how the light above hits it. Second, there are a few rough spots now (raised grain?). Usually the darker parts. Not overly rough, but noticeable when you run your hand over it. My question is will adding poly fix those problems? My plan all along was to use the danish oil because I loved the color it made the walnut butcher block and then top it off a couple weeks later with semi-gloss polyurethane. Will the poly fill in the rough spots and be smooth with sanding? Will the uneven shine go away with poly or just make it worse? Not sure what to do. Here is a good angle with a well lit room:  Here is one with just the ceiling light on which kind of shows the uneven shine (that does look fine if I'm standing directly over it). 
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Jan 30, 2021 05:15
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/\ You're getting the uneven sheen because the different boards have different grains and the ones that are more raised will absorb more of whatever you put on them. A few coats of poly and some light sanding should rectify both of your issues.Bouillon Rube posted:I found this pallet in a trash pile on a construction site near my house. Gravel, nails, rust, hidden staples, mystery chemicals... 
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Jan 30, 2021 06:41
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I mean, it was from a single family home site, probably no chemicals to worry about (I don’t think anyone uses methyl bromide to treat pallets in the US at this point)
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Jan 30, 2021 07:11
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Bouillon Rube posted:I found this pallet in a trash pile on a construction site near my house. Seems like the slats might be usable, any easy way to tell what kind of wood it is? Cedar maybe?  Thats a good pallet! Be careful when you sand it, these pallets can have weird chemicals in them and it might not be great to breath the dust. From my experience pallets have a pretty rough surface.
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Jan 30, 2021 07:15
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Bouillon Rube posted:I mean, it was from a single family home site, probably no chemicals to worry about (I don’t think anyone uses methyl bromide to treat pallets in the US at this point) Even if they are not treated, they have a nasty habit of picking stuff up from spills on warehouse floors and the back of trucks. That aside, they are still bad for blades due to embedded gravel, nails... See my previous post. If you do decide to use them, heed our advice and wear a mask. Also maybe don't use your new Freud blades.
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Jan 30, 2021 07:26
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Blistex posted:/\ You're getting the uneven sheen because the different boards have different grains and the ones that are more raised will absorb more of whatever you put on them. A few coats of poly and some light sanding should rectify both of your issues. Thank you. When it comes to screws, would #8 1-1/4 be fine instead of #10 in a 1-1/2 butcher block? Going to be 3 or 4 screws on each leg (using pipes)? Can't find quality #10 ones in that size and don't want to skimp since I'm dealing with walnut. Not sure if that diameter really makes a difference there. Also are little tiny cracks and knicks normal? I don't remember this on the original butcher block I bought. It might have been there and only became noticeable when I oiled, but I feel like they've just slowly been popping up while I've used the danish oil. Not a big deal since they are tiny and add a little character to the desk, but wondering if I'm causing this somehow or it's normal.  
Niwrad fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 08:03
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We bought a beautiful old bureau. The finish has quite some odd stains on it though. Does anyone know how these stains can be mitigated, and how the glossy finish needs to be maintained? 
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Jan 30, 2021 12:03
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Bouillon Rube posted:I found this pallet in a trash pile on a construction site near my house. Seems like the slats might be usable, any easy way to tell what kind of wood it is? Cedar maybe?  If it's a locally made pallet then it's probably whatever wood is common in your area. The grade is likely about the worst possible. Sawmills will take the straight-clear stuff and sell it for the highest value. Then things like the core get sold for railroad ties (at least in my area with hard maple) and the slats or lower quality bits get trimmed into pallet wood. Sawmill operators are extremely clever at getting every single piece of usable wood out of a log. The thing that can make pallet wood so attractive is the defects because it is poo poo they would normally throw away. It'll have a HT stamp on it somewhere, or a certification mark, if it's heat treated. If you see that just throw it away. They assemble the pallets with green wood and heat treat the whole works. So once you start cutting and pulling nails you'll find that the wood is breaking apart or warping. The nails are not normal nails, they will be pneumatically driven, spiral, glue coated nails. We had an all birdseye maple pallet come in once and I snagged it. Instead of pulling the nails I just used a circular saw and cut parallel to the stringers. After about a month it had all split apart and was useless.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:23
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Niwrad posted:I'm getting a little nervous about the desk I'm making. Everything seemed to be going smooth so maybe this is just paranoia. Scuff sanding between coats with 320 paper or a maroon scotchbrite pad will help alot, especially with a few more coats of danish oil. I don't think you will need to put poly on unless you really want to. Lord Stimperor posted:We bought a beautiful old bureau. The finish has quite some odd stains on it though.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:19
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The Lost Art Press live stream q&a this morning was really good. At the end chris may have convinced me that I dont need a lathe.
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Jan 30, 2021 18:56
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Was bored yesterday and decided to clean up the garage. I noticed that there was an exceptional amount of dust on my dovetail jig that was stored on a forgotten shelf, and after cleaning it off I felt compelled to use it in some manner. I had some leftover 3/4" Birch plywood, some hinges, a handle, a clasp lock, a respirator and an idea.   I'm going to use the bottom part to store various filters and in the top section I'll rig up some sort of soft padded stand for my mask so it doesn't get scratched. Probably shaped foam and some felt. I have a carry handle on the top and some rubber feet on the bottom for transporting, but I figure it will spend 99% of it's life hanging up in the garage. This was a first attempt at dovetailing plywood, and if anyone else is interested in trying it I would recommend that you have a very good sharp blade, max out the RPM on your router, and go very, very slow and do multiple shallow passes. I also taped up the edges of the wood where tearout was likely to occur because it wasn't supported on the back. The 3M logo was tricky to do, but turned out really well. I printed out the logo to the desired size and set it aside. Then I used wide painter's tape and laid it in an overlapping rectangle on top of a nylon cutting board (easy to peel off later). Then I overlapped another layer of painter's tape going the other direction. Finally I laid the logo over the painter's tape and taped it down so it wouldn't move. I carefully cut out the logo (through the tape underneath it), removed the paper, removed the centre letter and number (saving the small wedge between the "3" and the "M") and positioned my sticky stencil on top of the door (which already had two layers of sanded poly so that it would be a perfectly flat and non-absorbent surface to paint on. I used a rattle can to do a few heavy layers and peeled the tape off before it really started to harden. There were a few bleed-under spots that I cleaned up with a flat razor blade, then I put another two coats of poly over top of the door. The piano hinge is not recessed into the wood on purpose so that I can fit some manner of thin foam gasket around the opening to make sure the container is 100% dust proof. I still have some ply left and might try making a chisel or hand plane box as well. I'm thinking that the theme is going to be portable boxes that are also able to hang on a wall for easy access.
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Jan 30, 2021 19:23
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Anyone have opinions on gouges for carving (and maybe turning sometime down the road)? Waffling between just grabbing the 1-3 sizes I need from Lee Valley (probably the Hirsch brand stuff) or rolling the dice on a medium sized eBay lot.GEMorris posted:The Lost Art Press live stream q&a this morning was really good. I was going to watch this live and then totally forgot 
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Jan 30, 2021 20:28
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Can we post cardboard projects too? I finally finished my first attempt at real craftsmanship, a radiator cover. I am pretty happy with how it turned out. Its made out of most of a sheet of 3/4" MDF and various pine moldings. Construction is super simple--just a bunch of pocket screwed butt joints. I spent by far the majority of the time filling gaps, sanding, and prepping for paint. I tried to get the butt joints totally hidden but after a few weeks, I'm starting to see some hairline cracks through the paint. Not totally surprised given the wild temperature fluctuations going on here, but I'm wondering if it might eventually settle and I will be able to permanently hide the joints by doing some paintwork in place.
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Jan 30, 2021 20:53
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Bouillon Rube posted:I found this pallet in a trash pile on a construction site near my house. Seems like the slats might be usable, any easy way to tell what kind of wood it is? Cedar maybe? Knotty pine.
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Jan 30, 2021 22:26
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I've never come across a real live 2x4 before.  Wowee, what a thrill this wood business is!
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Jan 30, 2021 23:42
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ColdPie posted:Anyone have opinions on gouges for carving (and maybe turning sometime down the road)? Waffling between just grabbing the 1-3 sizes I need from Lee Valley (probably the Hirsch brand stuff) or rolling the dice on a medium sized eBay lot. What kind of things do you want to carve? I have some big old straight gouges (never buy incannel gouges even though they seem cool) and some of these: https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/EE-SG500.XX that are great for roughing out mouldings or cabriole legs or w/e, but not great for any kind of relief carving (mostly because of the size and bevel angle). For relief carving, (acanthus leaves etc) pretty much any of the European makers (Ashley Iles, Henry Taylor, pfeil, Two Cherries, Hirsch, Stubai etc) are good I think. My tools are mostly Ashley iles or pfeil, and the main difference between them is how sharp they came, and the handles. Pfeil has octagonal handles which I really like, Ashley iles uses round handles which are comfortable to hold, but roll off the bench. The pfeil tools come razor sharp out of the box which is great, the Ashley iles needed a little final honing/polishing. Depending on what your plans are, it can be alot cheaper per tool to get a set. Woodcraft sometime has them on sale for more reasonable than normal. E: I wouldn’t hesitate to buy old ones in decent shape if you find them cheap. The important thing is that you can get them extremely sharp. V tools and some others can be a little tricky to grind and sharpen, but gouges are pretty easy if you have a fine rounded stone of some sort for the inside. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 23:44
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