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Maybe you can mount a glass breaker to the wall by the sliding door as a compromise 
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Jan 27, 2021 23:36
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My inspector is open to none of your brilliant suggestions. He basically doesn't give a gently caress. I'm only slightly paraphrasing: "code is code."
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Jan 28, 2021 16:31
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Jenkl posted:My inspector is open to none of your brilliant suggestions. My answer was always: There's one book. It's the same book for everyone. I didn't write it.
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Jan 28, 2021 16:52
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But you are the one interpreting it. In any case, it's now even more complicated since there's technically a beam in a room that's at that same height, except it's bigger - 3x 2x10 over about 6 to 7', that has the same problem. Thing is, he didn't actually mention this one when here, but I'm concerned he might make a big deal of it at final. So now I think I need to notch the beam 5/8" or notch the ~6 joists it supports. In one, a small notch like this wouldn't be a problem but over so many somewhat concerns me. I gotta admit it is infuriating sitting here thinking about getting an engineer over this. It's in the original drawings the city reviewed. Ugh.
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Jan 28, 2021 20:28
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Jenkl posted:But you are the one interpreting it. There is little interpretation about the required height and width of egress paths. They are tables full of numbers. Exact numbers, not ranges. What you are asking for is an exception. Not an interpretation. While it is possible to request and have a variance granted, the AHJ taking it upon themselves to grant one in the field is 100% on them as far as liability. The variance review process is going to be more complicated and costly than making this meet or exceed these bare minimum code standards. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jan 28, 2021 |
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Jan 28, 2021 20:38
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Yeah I know, and you're right. I'm just venting. It's a frustrating situation to run into.
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Jan 28, 2021 20:49
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Maybe you could change the type of door where your sliding door is, so this is no longer the egress route?
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Jan 28, 2021 20:54
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Jenkl posted:he didn't actually mention this one when here, but I'm concerned he might make a big deal of it at final. Do they do this? Add more finding down the road? Bummer man, hope that's the last they hit you with
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Jan 28, 2021 23:20
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falz posted:As you may have noticed, I made one huge mistake - the peninsula shows the wood floor where the toekick was. I planned it to be hidden, but didn't take in to account the toe kick. My ghetto plan is to sand it and stain it to be same colour as the tile. If that doesnt work.. well ill maybe cut it out and attempt to lay tile there. Quick note that I opted to sand and stain this and it turned out shockingly well, you really don't notice it unless looking for it. Sanding oak floor under a counter sucked balls, but I'm just going to deem this acceptable and move on. This is in winter, in a cold state, where its rarely sunny this time of year. We'll see if its worse in summer, when the sun is perhaps at a more direct angle + more sunlight. (Note I need to scrub out some saw dust from the groove still tho, appears in the last photo)   
falz fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 16:04
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Finally got my pellet stove installed, some part was back ordered for like a month or so. Guess I don't have to worry about my barely functional electric baseboard anymore. But two issues. 1) The outlet I want to plug it into is for some baffling reason on the same circuit as the whole garage. When I bought the place a little over a year ago, a condition of sale was an electrician GF I protect the garage...he did this by just popping in a GF I breaker. The pellet stove and the breaker don't get along, so it trips it 3 seconds after starting. Tested it on a heavy duty extension cord to another circuit and it runs fine, definitely the GFCI breaker not an actual ground fault in the stove. So now I gotta get an electrician out here. 2) The installers did a nice job on the inside... The outside vent, though, is ugly at best, completely wrong at worst.    Granted, I know almost nothing of chimney and vent installs, but shouldn't there be, like, some kind of fascia piece between the vent and siding to cover that gap? And those screws... At least they're exterior screws, but they're basically deck screws. I'd expect something nicer looking, like a pan head stainless steel, perhaps with a built in rubber gasket, not a counter sink style head that can't lay flush and looks terrible.
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Jan 29, 2021 19:59
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Uh.....that's so poorly installed I'd be afraid of what else is wrong. That's the wrong cap. That one is meant for a roof and the flat part goes under the shingles. E: wait no....the bottom is....... beats me. I know it's wrong. And after zooming in LOLOL at that silicone gooped around there.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:04
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I really like how they cracked the siding (probably because it was cold) and just slathered on some silicone and called it a day.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:18
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Motronic posted:Uh.....that's so poorly installed I'd be afraid of what else is wrong. Is there a right cap for this application? I assume that any vent cap requires installing flashing/block where it penetrates the siding, except for perhaps stucco, composite panel siding, and... brick? Like, any siding with a significant texture should get a block cut in. I'm not surprised they didn't cut a block in though, I doubt the installers are trained to do that and it adds a layer of complexity.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:30
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Tezer posted:Is there a right cap for this application? I assume that any vent cap requires installing flashing/block where it penetrates the siding, except for perhaps stucco, composite panel siding, and... brick? Like, any siding with a significant texture should get a block cut in. I dunno if there is or not, but they definitely needed to at least trough for that one. Or you know, just crush the vinyl siding and crack it. Whichever. Edit: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent-PelletVent-3-in-Stove-Pipe-Kit-3PVL-KHA/100195128 Yep, there sure is and you're supposed to cut the siding and trim it back out. Motronic fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 20:45
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Tezer posted:I'm not surprised they didn't cut a block in though, I doubt the installers are trained to do that and it adds a layer of complexity. Yeah, you should pretty much always use a 'mounting' j-block for any type of penetration or mount to vinyl siding. Of course, nobody ever does. They just cut the hole and goop it. It's more of an issue where, like here, the item being mounted spans multiple siding rows. You can't get it flush due to how siding has peaks and valleys. A mounting block gets around this by being flush with the sheathing and the channel hides the interface with the siding and the ugly cut.
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Jan 29, 2021 20:45
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It looks like they did not install the metal fire shielding right. Not a pro, but had to deal with the same thing in my place (similarly rushed job for fireplace vent, silicone goop and no block for vinyl, etc.). For my gas fireplace at least, the vent cap vaguely similar to that, and came with two metal shield pieces that wrapped around the duct, meant to maintain space between the ducting and wall assembly components (framing, insulation, etc.) I suspect that vent should go in from the inside, then there's a second plate that goes on from the outside. The rectangle would then sit flush with your siding (as flush as it can, anyways). Again, not a pro, but my impression is they forgot to do that piece first, but blocked it all when they finished up inside.
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Jan 29, 2021 22:46
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To be fair, I wouldn't try to install a j-block in siding when it's freezing cold outside either, because there's a very good chance of cracking the siding panels when manipulating them as you need to do. Of course, fear of cracking didn't seem to be an impediment here.
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Jan 30, 2021 00:57
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B-Nasty posted:To be fair, I wouldn't try to install a j-block in siding when it's freezing cold outside either, because there's a very good chance of cracking the siding panels when manipulating them as you need to do. Of course, fear of cracking didn't seem to be an impediment here. And if you do crack it, just silicone it. The bigger the glob, the better the job. And those screws. 
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Jan 30, 2021 13:28
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quote:I'm sorry, but this is the stuff of nightmares. It is absolutely horrendous looking and there is no way that is installed correctly or even the right type of vent for a side exit. And they destroyed your siding...holy hell.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:16
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Yeah, I gave them a call yesterday and a guy is coming by this week to look at it, hopefully a more experienced guy and not one of the stooges that were here yesterday.
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Jan 30, 2021 15:22
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We looked at an old 1919 farmhouse today that had been opened up on the main floor. A wall was removed that would have run directly under the upstairs bathroom wall. We were told the work was done by a carpenter but that it didn't have permits, so we walked away from it.  Actually, both of those gray beams are locations of former walls. I don't think the one under the bathroom was load bearing as far as the shower & tub go but it still seemed like a red flag. Was I overthinking it?
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Jan 30, 2021 18:28
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After more sanding, priming, texturing, and painting, I have replaced my still-obvious celling crack with a newly-obvious patch edge that looked and felt seamless up until my latest coat of celling paint. I am throwing in the towel. I'll do one or two more coats of this flat white paint and hope it disappears a little bit more. You win ceiling, you win.
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Jan 30, 2021 19:17
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unlimited shrimp posted:We looked at an old 1919 farmhouse today that had been opened up on the main floor. A wall was removed that would have run directly under the upstairs bathroom wall. We were told the work was done by a carpenter but that it didn't have permits, so we walked away from it. Overthinking unpermitted structural modifications? No, I don't think so. Also not overthinking on trying to turn a house from 1919 into an open floor plan Besides all the gray, I'm counting at least 4 different metal finishes in that one picture.
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Jan 30, 2021 19:36
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unlimited shrimp posted:We looked at an old 1919 farmhouse today that had been opened up on the main floor. A wall was removed that would have run directly under the upstairs bathroom wall. We were told the work was done by a carpenter but that it didn't have permits, so we walked away from it. That floor is laid completely wrong. You see how every other course the ends line up? That's exactly how you're not supposed to do that. Pretty minor in the scheme of unpermitted structural work, but a good indication whoever did the work doesn't even read instructions. It's a poorly done flip and you were right to pass. E: also unless it's just fisheye fuckery, there's no way the tread depths on those stairs are even. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 21:10
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Dishwasher didn't drain (first time this has happened, lived here for a year). Looked under the sink and the drain line didn't have a high loop, so I set that up, but I have quite a bit of extra hose below the loop before it hits the garbage disposal. Is it ok to have extra hose there? I suspect it's so the dishwasher can be pulled out without detaching the drain hose, but it seems excessive. After I took that picture I moved the drain hose below the outlet, not sure if that matters or not but it gives me more peace of mind to have the water under the electric.
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Jan 30, 2021 22:10
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mods, change my name to sisyphus Edit: I already retextured and painted a coat and it looks a lot better, I might actually be almost done with this 
Sirotan fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jan 30, 2021 |
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Jan 30, 2021 22:13
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I bet you a nickle the round part is supposed to be inside the wall. (laughcry emoji)
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Jan 30, 2021 22:46
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Holy loving poo poo that's bad. Source: I just installed one of those correctly Edit: thought it was a dryer vent but the principle is largely the same.
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Jan 30, 2021 22:59
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Dishwasher didn't drain (first time this has happened, lived here for a year). Looked under the sink and the drain line didn't have a high loop, so I set that up, but I have quite a bit of extra hose below the loop before it hits the garbage disposal. Is it ok to have extra hose there? I suspect it's so the dishwasher can be pulled out without detaching the drain hose, but it seems excessive. Force a drain cycle and watch the water at the high point of that hose. It should push toward the disposal, not rock back and forth. My first guess would be the check-valve on the drain pump. That’s the thing that makes sure water can only exit, and the water in the drain tube can’t fall back into the machine when the pump stops. If you’re lucky, that valve will have an accessible cleanout. More likely, it’ll be molded into the drain hose at the pump end and be kind of a pain to get at. A lemon seed stuck in the check valve made mine not drain.
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Jan 30, 2021 23:03
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Dishwasher didn't drain (first time this has happened, lived here for a year). Looked under the sink and the drain line didn't have a high loop, so I set that up, but I have quite a bit of extra hose below the loop before it hits the garbage disposal. Is it ok to have extra hose there? I suspect it's so the dishwasher can be pulled out without detaching the drain hose, but it seems excessive. No, get rid of the python you're hiding down there. You don't want stank-rear end water getting trapped in those loops. You can usually disconnect the drain hose from the bottom of the dishwasher by removing the bottom access panel or, failing that, you can disconnect the drain side if you need to pull the dishwasher out. There's no need to keep extra hose for that purpose.
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Jan 30, 2021 23:09
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unlimited shrimp posted:We looked at an old 1919 farmhouse today that had been opened up on the main floor. A wall was removed that would have run directly under the upstairs bathroom wall. We were told the work was done by a carpenter but that it didn't have permits, so we walked away from it. Imagine putting the time/money/effort in to a reno/flip and choosing brass for the hardware i mean tbh it'd be worse if ALL the metal were brass, so there's that at least.
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Jan 31, 2021 02:26
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The best part of the entire house (besides the colossal yard) was the almost untouched upstairs, which still had the plaster walls, original floorplan, and four massive bedrooms because closets were never added. The downstairs was stripped of all charm. We liked it enough that undoing the reno over the years would have been a nice hobby (definitely forever home-tier for layout and location) but I don't want to have to worry about the upstairs floors sagging or the tub coming through the ceiling because the weight distribution is all screwed up now.
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Jan 31, 2021 03:29
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DaveSauce posted:i mean tbh it'd be worse if ALL the metal were brass, so there's that at least. Theres actually nothing wrong with brass and depending on the house look it may work. But that house is depressing.
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Jan 31, 2021 09:07
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ntan1 posted:Theres actually nothing wrong with brass and depending on the house look it may work. There is when it's 3 different kinds within view in that one picture, plus a light fixture that should be brass and not white. ntan1 posted:But that house is depressing. Yeah, someone sucked all the life out of it and made it into what somehow became a shittier version of an already lovely-style floorplan.
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Jan 31, 2021 13:23
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Too much HGTV and not enough taste.
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Jan 31, 2021 15:25
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The hosed up floor pattern would demolish my brain
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Jan 31, 2021 15:46
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Is the beam coming from the top left just cosmetic? It butt ends to the other beam without a post or any joist hanger visible. That seems realbad if it's structural. Re the floor comment, on the left it looks like every other board end is matched up, which is fine. But those board look thinner than those on the right, hard to tell.
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Jan 31, 2021 15:50
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falz posted:Re the floor comment, on the left it looks like every other board end is matched up, which is fine. But those board look thinner than those on the right, hard to tell. That's not fine. It's not how it's intended to be installed. No professional installer would ever do that. No reasonable person would allow it. The planks look different widths because of stupid realtor fisheye bullshit.
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Jan 31, 2021 16:07
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Motronic posted:That's not fine. It's not how it's intended to be installed. No professional installer would ever do that. No reasonable person would allow it. Agreed. But for some reason, there's too many people that think it's okay to install like that. And it's almost always a red flag DIY job. I point out a couple houses per week to my wife for having stupid "ladder install" floors. It's one of my triggers. Edit: Proper name is an "H Joint" and is universally frowned upon by any professional installer. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jan 31, 2021 |
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Jan 31, 2021 17:07
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I mean lvp varies and usually has a few install methods. For something that slender and long, it definitely seems whack. If it were like 1x2' lvp with tile look, it'd be fine. I almost wonder if this is the longer type that also has various widths and they hilariously used the wide ones in one area and the skinny ones in another.
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Jan 31, 2021 17:12
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