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Wallet posted:Those look like V-nails, which are often used for framing. If you want it to stay together long-term, you probably want to put it back together with v-nails and glue (or have a framer do it). Staples aren't going to do a lot. Ah, was searching for the wrong letter! This puts me on the right path, thanks!
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Feb 1, 2021 01:34
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They make L shaped mending plates that screw in from the back too. Whatever you choose I’d clamp the piece before installing, a little wiggle room is pretty apparent.
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Feb 1, 2021 03:30
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I have a question about grouting and sealing some mosaic tile for a backsplash that I installed this weekend. I'm in the middle of my 24-72 hour window for the tile adhesive to dry. My mosaic is is made up of about 80% glass tiles and 20% some kind of grey stone tile. The grey stone tiles seem really porous--I got a small amount of blood from my hand on one while cutting, and it stained it so bad I had to just replace that tile. Will the white grout I want to apply next also stain the grey stone tile? I assumed that the order of operations would be to apply the grout once the tile adhesive has set, allow the grout to set, and then spray tile/grout sealant on on the tiles and the grout all at once, but I'm reading on the back of my spray bottle of sealant that it can be applied directly to stone before grouting to avoid staining. So now I'm wondering if I should be sealing the tiles before I apply the grout and then sealing the grout after it cures? melon cat posted:Is it worthwhile to buy a FLIR camera for home projects? Asking because I have an old century home with plaster and lathe and I'm doing all sorts of work that requires finding the studs. Stud finders and rare earth magnets haven't been helpful. I know that FLIR cams help find wall studs in drywall but I'm wondering if it will do the same with plaster and lathe. I've had good luck finding studs through my plaster walls using a cheap magnetic stud finder, like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/C-H-Hanson-Magnetic-Stud-Finder-03040/202563186 The idea is that you use the magnet to find the screws or nails that fasten the lathe to the studs, and then you know you've got a stud running that full vertical distance and can measure in 16" increments from there. I prefer this solution to drilling a bunch of exploratory holes myself. Blakkout fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 17:27
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Blakkout posted:Will the white grout I want to apply next also stain the grey stone tile? Anytime you're concerned about materials interacting, prepare a sample. Mix up a little bit of the grout and apply it to an extra tile (I know you have at least one - the one with the blood on it). There's a tile setting poster, hopefully they will see your question. I'm blanking on their name. Here's a website that might address your question: https://floorelf.com/
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Feb 1, 2021 17:40
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Blakkout posted:I have a question about grouting and sealing some mosaic tile for a backsplash that I installed this weekend. Hi. Tile setting poster here. White grout shouldn't stain the stone. If you're worried, seal the tile first then grout it, that won't hurt anything, and is probably what I'd do in your situation. There's also a product called grout release. I don't know if they sell it at the depot, but it's a sealer that washes off when you do your cleaning of the grout. I think it's cheaper, but if you're only doing a splash you probably have more than enough grout sealer anyway. Edit: Also what kind of grout and what kind of sealer? AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Feb 1, 2021 |
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Feb 1, 2021 21:44
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Thanks for both responses.AFewBricksShy posted:Edit: Also what kind of grout and what kind of sealer? Grout: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polyblend-381-Bright-White-10-lb-Non-Sanded-Grout-PBG38110/100553533 Sealer: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-TileLab-SurfaceGard-24-oz-Penetrating-Sealer-TLSGS24Z/202907662
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Feb 1, 2021 22:41
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Blakkout posted:Thanks for both responses. What's your joint size? I generally don't like wall grout (unsanded) for anything bigger than 1/16". The sanded grout allows it to have a little more body, there's a chance you could have it kind of slump out of the joints unless they are nice and tight. That is also something that only the person who did it might notice, but just something to consider. If you're sticking with Custom, and your joints are 1/8" or more, you might want to consider their prism line. It will cost a bit more, but will also provide a little bit of stain protection in the grout itself, which is nice for white grout. Your grout sealer will do just fine. You'll want to re-up every now and then, mainly if you ever notice that water isn't beading on it anymore, which you'll only notice if you're as messy of a cook as I am.
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Feb 2, 2021 00:53
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floWenoL posted:Cool thanks, wire brush and Vaseline sounds like what I want! You can try, but the bolt might snap off anyway. Before you get started, consider if you want to replace the toilet if one of the bolts snaps. If you end up having to pull the toilet because a bolt snapped, replacing the entire toilet is not much more work then just replacing the bolt.
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Feb 2, 2021 00:59
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AFewBricksShy posted:What's your joint size? I generally don't like wall grout (unsanded) for anything bigger than 1/16". The sanded grout allows it to have a little more body, there's a chance you could have it kind of slump out of the joints unless they are nice and tight. That is also something that only the person who did it might notice, but just something to consider. If you're sticking with Custom, and your joints are 1/8" or more, you might want to consider their prism line. It will cost a bit more, but will also provide a little bit of stain protection in the grout itself, which is nice for white grout. drat. My joints are1/8”. Bought unsanded grout because I read that sanded grout can scratch high-polish glass tiles during application.
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Feb 2, 2021 03:57
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Blakkout posted:drat. My joints are1/8”. Bought unsanded grout because I read that sanded grout can scratch high-polish glass tiles during application. You'll probably be fine, you're at the high end of the limits of that grout. Just mix it up exactly as they say, don't add any more water than they tell you to. Pretty much the only grouts we use now are the higher tier grouts. That's Mapei's Ultracolor, Laticrete's Permacolor, and Custom's Prism because we just end up having less problems with them overall. You can't go wrong with them. I don't think scratching the grout is an issue with them, just the sanded grouts. I might be wrong though.
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Feb 2, 2021 14:30
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Blakkout posted:drat. My joints are1/8”. Bought unsanded grout because I read that sanded grout can scratch high-polish glass tiles during application. For what it's worth, I (mistakenly) grouted my woodstove backstop & base with unsanded grout in 2006, and those joints are at least 1/4" (8" terra-cotta) 
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Feb 2, 2021 16:42
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Is there a way to make a driveway surface like this less slippery? I keep falling on it.  It has some moss or something on parts of it, but I don't know if that's there at the steepest part where I slip.
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Feb 2, 2021 21:23
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Pressure wash it first. If that doesn't fix it you may need to acid etch it or something more involved that I haven't done. But pressure washing it will insure anything that may be making it invisibly slippery is blasted out of the surface, and that could be enough to save it. Oh and it could be your shoes too. I've had some pairs of worn out shoes be dangerously slippery on random surfaces, and not noticing until it's too late. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Feb 2, 2021 |
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Feb 2, 2021 21:34
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Wasabi the J posted:Pressure wash it first. I'll see if I can borrow a pressure washer! They're brand new shoes, but I know what you mean. I've had the soles of shoes degraded by working with strong bleach solutions which turns them into slicks!
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Feb 2, 2021 21:42
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renting one of these things is probably the cheapest/easiest bet. There's also this stuff I haven't used it, and I don't know how DIYable it is, looks pretty easy? They make zinc powders for moss control, though that doesn't look like your problem in that area, pressure washing is good at removing moss too E: it does look like it's slippery because of wet, smooth aggregate, not contamination. Comedy option: glue outdoor carpet down on it. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Feb 2, 2021 |
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Feb 2, 2021 21:42
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Elviscat posted:renting one of these things is probably the cheapest/easiest bet. That looks like it's beyond my skill level. I am not very handy 😂 I'll try the pressure washer first and if that doesn't seem better, I'll look for pros.
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Feb 2, 2021 22:02
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Elviscat posted:
I agree. On both counts. In all honesty though, pressure washing is one of the less risky or skill intensive options, but it's still a long shot.
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Feb 2, 2021 22:03
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Wasabi the J posted:I agree. So this kind of surface is inherently slippery? I thought that might be the case. Would putting sand down be a temporary solution? Like if Halloween comes around and it's raining, so trick or treaters don't slip?
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Feb 2, 2021 22:11
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Blakkout posted:I've had good luck finding studs through my plaster walls using a cheap magnetic stud finder, like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/C-H-Hanson-Magnetic-Stud-Finder-03040/202563186
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Feb 2, 2021 22:25
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Yeah it is, it's the smooth stones, if you pay attention you'll notice that concrete surfaced freeways start to become slippery as tires wear the cement between the stones down, and they'll come out with big scarifiers (like that machine I linked) and grind it all down to improve wet stopping distances. Some googling indicates that some people mix sand in concrete sealer, or use a diy product like this. I could see loose sand helping a bit too.
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Feb 2, 2021 22:28
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You can roll out a coat of Chattahoochee Sealer on it with a non-skid additive mixed in. If thinking about going this route I would do a small test area first to make sure it gives you worthwhile results before doing the whole thing.
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Feb 2, 2021 22:47
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I wouldn't put sand on it unless it's wet. I slip hiking over boulders with loose sand covering them, even in pretty grippy shoes.
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Feb 2, 2021 22:55
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Is there a solar thread? I didn't see one. I live in Southern California and have a fairly large southern facing roof, which seems ideal for solar production. However my electric bill is fairly low - about $100 a month average. This may be relevant, I have a shingle roof with two layers of shingles, the newest layer being six years old. I'm not into the solar leases at all. That said, I'm not sure if it's worth buying them outright. It's a pretty large investment. It's hard to find any math that isn't a sales pitch. Are there any good resources on this?
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Feb 3, 2021 05:13
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Not even a question for home improvement purposes, I'm already working on handling the "poo poo ain't sealed against winter air" problem, but an intent/purpose check as I investigate this apartment's HVAC to figure out why I am always goddamn freezing: Why would anyone EVER install an "air heater" that just runs air through the water the adjacent water heater creates, relying entirely on the water heater with no heat source of its own? This is the least functional design I've ever seen, it blows cold air half the time! To clarify: this is a forced air system mated to a water heater, NOT a radiator system.
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Feb 3, 2021 07:24
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FogHelmut posted:Is there a solar thread? I didn't see one. https://www.google.com/get/sunroof I only know what I've read about on these here forums but generally if you don't have government subsidies and you can't sell back to your utility for a good rate it won't be worth it. As for the 2 layers of shingles I think roofers rip off when it gets to 3 layers normally but totally guessing, for a solar install you'll want an entire fresh roof put on (rip off old layers, install new).
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Feb 3, 2021 08:00
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Another weird issue. My new house has a finished basement and I was futzing with some cable ties down in the corner of the room and felt a very slight draft of cold air coming from a gap between the bottom of the trim and the floor. Should I just caulk the gap OR should I remove the trim and fill the entire lower gap with great stuff?
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Feb 3, 2021 18:41
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I have an odd question, but I figure if anyone knows the answer, it'll be one of you goons. Are there good shows or youtube channels for DIY/gardening/outdoor survival? My wife and I really enjoyed watching Survivorman when it came out several years ago. Recently we've tried watching shows like Alone and The Repair Shop, but they both focus too much on the human element. What we really want is something more focused on skills and techniques. Maybe something like How It's Made, but at a level that's at least theoretically possible for one or two people to do without needing a whole factory. Or maybe something like a cooking show, but for other household tasks. Good cooking show suggestions are also welcome, but I will be surprised if you can recommend something we haven't already watched.
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Feb 3, 2021 18:44
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LLSix posted:I have an odd question, but I figure if anyone knows the answer, it'll be one of you goons. Are there good shows or youtube channels for DIY/gardening/outdoor survival? 'This Old House 'The Victory Garden' 'P. Allen Smith's Garden home' or w/e it's called 'The Woodwright's shop' 'New Yankee Workshop' 'Hometime'
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Feb 3, 2021 19:16
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Rhyno posted:Another weird issue. Both locations are the 'wrong' place to fix the issue, but may be the only options available to you. It is unlikely that either of your proposed solutions will cause a problem, it's just important to keep in mind that there may be a systemic issue that you're just papering over a bit. Air should never be able to move freely through a wall assembly, and should be stopped closest to the side it originates from. So if air is coming into the room, it should be stopped on the exterior of the assembly not the interior. Ok, that said, I would probably use caulk because it's going to be more flexible and inspectable over the long-term. Expanding foam may fill the cavity and provide some insulating value, but it has a tendency to crack off of adjacent surfaces over time which will re-open the air leak. Read the label on the caulk to ensure it will stick to the materials you are using it on, and it doesn't have any qualities you don't want (for example, some caulks are not paintable).
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Feb 3, 2021 19:29
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I'm doing a CAT5 cable routing. Old century home. Which means boring holes though wall studs. Problem is I have some skinny rear end studs holding up the plaster and lathe Would you drill through this with a ½" fish bit? Studs appear to be approx ¾" wide. Which isn't much. According to this source the bored hole should be "not more than 60 percent of the stud width" and the edge of the hole shouldn't be more than 5/8 inch (16 mm) to the edge of the stud. Really thinking that my fish bit's hole might be too large and weaken the stud. melon cat fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Feb 3, 2021 |
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Feb 3, 2021 19:36
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Tezer posted:Both locations are the 'wrong' place to fix the issue, but may be the only options available to you. It is unlikely that either of your proposed solutions will cause a problem, it's just important to keep in mind that there may be a systemic issue that you're just papering over a bit. Air should never be able to move freely through a wall assembly, and should be stopped closest to the side it originates from. So if air is coming into the room, it should be stopped on the exterior of the assembly not the interior. Okay, noted. I think "draft" might be the wrong word. I don't feel actual air moving, it's just noticeably cold down there. So I'm thinking there might just be an insulation gap as I don't feel the cold along the entire wall.
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Feb 3, 2021 19:52
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A lighter (especially a nice long, grill lighter) is a great tool to figure out how bad of draft you have. Put the flame in front of the area with the draft and watch--if it blows out you got big issues. If it flickers, not so bad. But you get the idea--just don't burn anything. As Tezer mentioned--if you are getting a draft at floor level, you'd really want to figure out from the outside of the house how it is getting though. But if it is just cold flooring. Is it concrete/slab? Expect some thermal dissipation in the concrete closest to the outside walls.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:04
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Rhyno posted:Okay, noted. I think "draft" might be the wrong word. I don't feel actual air moving, it's just noticeably cold down there. So I'm thinking there might just be an insulation gap as I don't feel the cold along the entire wall. Ah, got it. If there isn't a pressure differential (ie - a draft) caulking isn't going to help very much. It may stop a little bit of air movement, but it isn't going to stop the 'cold.' So in that case, foaming behind the baseboard (if there is a void there) is the right way to address it. Given that location is one of the most likely places moisture will sit if you have a moisture issue, spray foam is really the only recommended material to use because it bonds well with other materials (reducing the opportunity for condensation to form) and doesn't hold moisture/support mold growth as well as other materials. There are many reasons why a finished basement may be unusually cold at that location (no insulation under the slab for example, it's also probably far from where heat enters the room, and there is a sill plate there which will be colder than the surrounding insulation because it has a lower R value). If it isn't impacting general room comfort, it may not be worth the effort to address. Like, if you pull the baseboard off and there isn't anywhere to put insulation, now you've just created a trim repair project and haven't even addressed the original issue. So beware of creating a bigger problem than you start with.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:08
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Excellent info, thank you. Full disclosure: i never got around to caulking the trim after we painted and put in new floors so I will take advantage of the furniture being pulled away from the wall and caulk it up just so it looks nice.
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Feb 3, 2021 20:45
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LLSix posted:I have an odd question, but I figure if anyone knows the answer, it'll be one of you goons. Are there good shows or youtube channels for DIY/gardening/outdoor survival? Townsend and Sons 18th-19th century reenactment and historical cooking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlVENzhq_Xw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WLebI5eNlg
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Feb 4, 2021 00:25
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Has there been a thread on low impact / high efficiency housing? I was considering starting a thread to discuss Earthbag houses - I've researched quite a bit but never met anyone with direct experience
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Feb 5, 2021 05:50
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LLSix posted:I have an odd question, but I figure if anyone knows the answer, it'll be one of you goons. Are there good shows or youtube channels for DIY/gardening/outdoor survival? The least crazy guy from Dual Survival https://youtube.com/c/DavidCanterbury Really sincere cowboy guy cooking https://youtube.com/c/CowboyKentRollins Everything you need to know about tile showers https://youtube.com/user/StarrTile Everything you need to know about stucco https://youtube.com/c/StuccoPlastering
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Feb 5, 2021 07:54
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The grout at the seam of where my tiled floor meets my tiled tub/shower in a guest bath is cracked all the way through. Do I need to get an oscillating tool to remove it and then try to match the original grout? Remove the bad stuff and put in something else?
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Feb 5, 2021 16:46
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Omne posted:The grout at the seam of where my tiled floor meets my tiled tub/shower in a guest bath is cracked all the way through. Do I need to get an oscillating tool to remove it and then try to match the original grout? Remove the bad stuff and put in something else? I'm assuming this is happening at a horizontal->vertical transition. You can get a grout removal tool, something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Coitak-Angled-Pieces-Replacement-Cleaning/dp/B085R9S368/ Be careful, you might scratch your tub if it slips (assuming tub to tile, not tile to tile) Replace it with caulk to match your grout. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 5, 2021 18:08
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AFewBricksShy posted:Replace it with caulk to match your grout. Important.
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Feb 5, 2021 18:15
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