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went out to water some of the overwintering plants in the shed and found this guy all confused definitely the first time it’s flowered in several years. this thing has almost died (mostly via neglect) so many times; at one point the entire root system bit it and i took some wilted cuttings without much hope and stuck them back in the pot but three of them took!
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Feb 7, 2021 19:24
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I've got this Japanese maple (don't know which variety it has red leaves) that has had a bad time of it. The twigs at the top are healthy and producing leaves, but as you can see there's a huge length of trunk with no branches. I'm planning on keeping the tree potted so I'd like to get some branches growing further down the trunk if at all possible. Can anyone point me in the direction of what techniques I'd need to go about doing this? I assume I'll need to graft some of the twigs up top to the trunk, but I've never done anything like that and don't know what I should be researching how to do. Here's the tree in question: 
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Feb 9, 2021 02:19
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 The frostbitten crassula is doing well, except for this bit which is growing some fungus. Should I cut more off? There’s growth there, which is why I’m apprehensive.
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Feb 9, 2021 09:30
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the fart question posted:
If it’s growing new stuff I’d leave it. You can always clip it in a few days/weeks if it looks bad but my hunch is the wound will eventually dry up and potentially die back a tiny bit (look at old plants with lots of pruning/lopping scars). If you shave even a tiny bit off you might lose all that new growth that’s alread close to the edge of the wound. You could use an old toothbrush and some clean water/peroxide to brush off the fungus, but I’d prioritize keeping that tissue dry rather than chopping it off. Maybe just dab some of the fluid off every day. Remember that dead, necrotic tissue wouldn’t be growing new leaves.
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Feb 9, 2021 10:22
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the fart question posted:
I was just thinking about this plant and wondering what happened to it yesterday. I'd try to gently clean that off with hydrogen peroxide (3%) or Dr. Bronner's and then try to make sure that spot stays nice and dry. The darker, moist looking area around the mold/fungus is a lot more worrying to me than the mold itself. If that bit is getting mushy I would personally be tempted to cut it back further, despite the new growth, because with the size of that Crassula letting rot get into it is a much bigger risk to it than removing that bit of new growth. Stringent posted:I've got this Japanese maple (don't know which variety it has red leaves) that has had a bad time of it. The twigs at the top are healthy and producing leaves, but as you can see there's a huge length of trunk with no branches. I'm planning on keeping the tree potted so I'd like to get some branches growing further down the trunk if at all possible. Can anyone point me in the direction of what techniques I'd need to go about doing this? I assume I'll need to graft some of the twigs up top to the trunk, but I've never done anything like that and don't know what I should be researching how to do. The folks in the Bonsai thread can probably point you in the right direction.
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Feb 9, 2021 14:56
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i was also thinking about h2o2 when i saw it
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Feb 9, 2021 15:23
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Wallet posted:I was just thinking about this plant and wondering what happened to it yesterday. I'd try to gently clean that off with hydrogen peroxide (3%) or Dr. Bronner's and then try to make sure that spot stays nice and dry. The darker, moist looking area around the mold/fungus is a lot more worrying to me than the mold itself.  The plant as a whole is doing great, loads of new growth all over; it’ll look great when it goes out for summer and starts growing like crazy. I chopped a thin slice off the stem and there’s no deeper rot so I’ll see how this bit dries out.  And I’m 100% sure I’ll get a new plant from this; there’s already a root 
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Feb 9, 2021 18:04
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Wallet posted:The folks in the Bonsai thread can probably point you in the right direction. Cheers!
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Feb 10, 2021 00:39
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Stringent posted:Cheers! Be warned, as may be expected, it is a slow thread
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Feb 10, 2021 01:54
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Jestery posted:Be warned, as may be expected, it is a slow thread No sweat, the tree isn't going anywhere.
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Feb 10, 2021 02:44
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If you're just trying to do a graft, it's pretty simple in practice, here's a very short video but there's much more detailed stuff out there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUusOkwM0jM Considering the size of the plant and the fact that it looks like you've got some dormant buds there, so you could also just do some notching and encourage those buds to become new branches, pretty simple: https://www.ediblebackyard.co.nz/branching-out/ You keep this thing outside and in good light during the growing season, right?
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Feb 10, 2021 12:01
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Oil of Paris posted:You keep this thing outside and in good light during the growing season, right? I just got it. It's been kept in a narrow gap between two walls thusfar, hence the shape. I've got it outside in full sun now, I'll move it into half shade once it starts getting warmer. Does that sound right?
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Feb 10, 2021 12:08
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Yeah I figured it was growing somewhere with hosed up light given the direction of the branches. That setup sounds fine, morning full sun and then afternoon shade would be ideal of course but that's not always possible. Probably wouldn't hurt to repot into something bigger as well, would help with thickening up the trunk
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Feb 10, 2021 12:41
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Oil of Paris posted:Yeah I figured it was growing somewhere with hosed up light given the direction of the branches. That setup sounds fine, morning full sun and then afternoon shade would be ideal of course but that's not always possible. Probably wouldn't hurt to repot into something bigger as well, would help with thickening up the trunk The roots are pretty anemic so I figured that pot was fine for the time being, but I'll keep an eye on it. Can I cut the bark above the buds and do a couple grafts at the same time or is that a one or the other kind of thing?
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Feb 10, 2021 13:15
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If it was me I’d just stick to one or the other considering how small it is but someone else who does more grafting might have a more expert opinion. I would be worried about doing too many cuts and inadvertently girdling it
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Feb 10, 2021 22:06
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Now that I finished my shelves and I have somewhere to put them with appropriate light I've finally been picking up some of the succulents I've been wanting for a while. I always take pictures when I get in a new plant so I can keep track of how it's doing and this thread is light on pictures in the winter so here's some new arrivals. Some of them are looking a little disheveled from living in a dark box for longer than expected—USPS is really poo poo lately. Thirsty Curio citriformus (with titty cactus cameo)  I know there were some Haworthia fans in here. I picked up this two-headed 'Fat Albert' to qualify for free shipping on another order and he showed up a lot more chonky than I was expecting.  A slightly disheveled Selcorebutia rauschii.  This Gymnocalycium stenopleurum had a bud on it but it broke off in shipping  . Aloinopsis schoonesii.  These Obregonia denegrii arrived impressively well rooted.  My phone's camera can just barely handle how small this Monanthes polyphylla is.  These weird looking goobers are Adromischus marianiae 'Herrei' f. green. Wallet fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Feb 11, 2021 |
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Feb 11, 2021 16:40
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Wallet posted:Now that I finished my shelves and I have somewhere to put them with appropriate light I've finally been picking up some of the succulents I've been wanting for a while. I always take pictures when I get in a new plant so I can keep track of how it's doing and this thread is light on pictures in the winter so here's some new arrivals. Some of them are looking a little disheveled from living in a dark box for longer than expected—USPS is really poo poo lately. those are great! succulents always amaze me. in a similar vein my so went back to their office late last year after having been gone for 8+ months. the cactus and all the african violets looked super dead, but every one of them came back, both cuttings and the original crown. 
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Feb 11, 2021 18:26
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Wallet posted:Now that I finished my shelves and I have somewhere to put them with appropriate light I've finally been picking up some of the succulents I've been wanting for a while. I always take pictures when I get in a new plant so I can keep track of how it's doing and this thread is light on pictures in the winter so here's some new arrivals. Some of them are looking a little disheveled from living in a dark box for longer than expected—USPS is really poo poo lately.
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Feb 11, 2021 23:08
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Wallet posted:Now that I finished my shelves and I have somewhere to put them with appropriate light I've finally been picking up some of the succulents I've been wanting for a while. I always take pictures when I get in a new plant so I can keep track of how it's doing and this thread is light on pictures in the winter so here's some new arrivals. Some of them are looking a little disheveled from living in a dark box for longer than expected—USPS is really poo poo lately. This is why I love succulents: some of those don’t look like plants at all
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Feb 11, 2021 23:39
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Hirayuki posted:I'm not a succulents person, but I really like the way you've potted all of these. It's pleasingly uniform and really attractive. Thanks! Most of the plants in my living room are in white ceramic. Bigger pots are from wherever, but most of the small ones are from Potey because I can afford them and their pots are decent (they have more variety on Amazon than their own website for some reason). Ok Comboomer posted:lol 90% of my poo poo goes into $0.50-5.00 terra cotta if it doesn’t go into plastic Whatever floats your boat. Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 00:19
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lol 90% of my poo poo goes into $0.50-5.00 terra cotta if it doesn’t go into plastic
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Feb 12, 2021 00:34
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I had the bright idea to start growing mounted orchids in my room during lockdown. No, I don't care about the fact my room humidity is too low for that, thank you very much. It's actually been working out ok for Phalaenopsis and Brassavola (they are indestructible and everyone should have them), mostly ok for smaller Angraecums, but not well for Aerangis (they were sulking because the roots dried out before getting long). I moved the Aerangis into crates with sphagnum in the bottom to raise humidity. Good: they're all growing happily, new roots are covering everything in sight. Bad: two came from the shop with fungal infections, and oh boy do the fungi love taking over orchids with water pooling on the leaves for hours after the daily watering. Let's see if inverting the things after applying hydrogen peroxide and fungicide will solve the issue.
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Feb 12, 2021 02:33
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I CANNOT EJACULATE WITHOUT SEEING NATIVE AMERICANS BRUTALISED!
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suck my woke dick posted:I had the bright idea to start growing mounted orchids in my room during lockdown. No, I don't care about the fact my room humidity is too low for that, thank you very much. It's actually been working out ok for Phalaenopsis and Brassavola (they are indestructible and everyone should have them), mostly ok for smaller Angraecums, but not well for Aerangis (they were sulking because the roots dried out before getting long). I’ve read that ground cinnamon works as an orchid fungicide. No idea how efficacious it is.
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Feb 12, 2021 06:30
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Yoruichi posted:Does anyone know what these are and what they want? I was given them by some friends who were moving house and didn't want them. Currently they are just sitting on my lawn. I would like for them to not die. Thank you for the advice about these cressula. It's been 6 weeks and they're not dead! Woo! I brought them inside and put them in a sunny spot. They've lost some leaves but are definitely getting greener. When should I start watering them again? How does one tell if plants like this need watering?  
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Feb 12, 2021 08:20
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Yoruichi posted:Thank you for the advice about these cressula. It's been 6 weeks and they're not dead! Woo! they look great! You want to water between 1 and 2 times per month. Maybe once per 7-10 days if you've got one in a super hot/dry/sunny spot midsummer where it's hitting the 90s-100s. But a good rule of thumb is 2x per month in spring and summer and early fall, and 1x during winter. You should be able to figure it out and tell based on the plant's behavior and reactions soon enough. also generally a plant that's in a pot is much more prone to drying and running out of water than a plant that's in the ground, for reasons that should be obvious. If the leaves are soft, wrinkly, dry, droopy looking then the plant wants water. If they look healthy and plump then it probably doesn't, but if it's due for a watering (ie it's been a month and the soil is bone dry and crispy/crusty) you can go ahead and water it anyway. I like soaking my pots in water overnight for watering, I get the soil nice and saturated but no flooding. Terra cotta is great because it soaks up water through its pores and then provides nice ventilation for the roots, which I find that the plants really like in my dry-as-hell New England apartment. When people say that crassula are some of the easiest plants that you can keep it's not to shame people into not asking questions, it's to get you to not overthink them too much. Also--note that the yellow on your leaves is normal and expected, it's a key feature of your specific variegated "breed". Regular crassula kept in relatively low light will be dark and green too, so you're going to want to use other signs to gauge health (turgor, growth vigor, number and bushiness of leaves, etc). trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 08:32
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Ok Comboomer posted:I’ve read that ground cinnamon works as an orchid fungicide. No idea how efficacious it is. I've mainly seen it used as wound treatment to prevent infections from establishing, and I use it after cutting things off. I don't think it'll do anything if the pathogen is already inside. The plants are doing a decent job containing infection locally, the problem is they keep getting reinfected in new spots probably because water washes spores all over the leaf. I'll just blast whatever they've got with systemic fungicide (Trifloxystrobin and Tebuconazole mix, somehow an actual highly effective combo despite being advertised as a consumer grade rose fungicide in the UK  ). As long as it's knocked down long enough to prevent further infection it'll probably die out. Inverting the plants as a further precaution should prevent future infection near the growing point.
suck my woke dick fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 12:41
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Wallet posted:Whatever floats your boat. Sorry, that wasn’t intended to be lovely on my part. I also love the uniform pot look but went with terra cotta due to utility and cost. It was more of a comment on my own cheapness/destitution than a dig at you
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Feb 12, 2021 12:47
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it’s lime time 
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Feb 12, 2021 14:03
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Ok Comboomer posted:When people say that crassula are some of the easiest plants that you can keep it's not to shame people into not asking questions, it's to get you to not overthink them too much. You have to work pretty hard to kill a big jade like that by accident (except by loving it to death). A couple of times a month during the growing season is a good rule of thumb but it's really dependent on what it's planted in, the conditions in your house, and how much light it gets (water needs are directly proportional to how much light a plant gets). Most succulents are either summer or winter dormant depending on the conditions in their native range—Crassula IIRC are summer dormant so most of their growth occurs in fall/winter/spring. You don't need to be terribly concerned about it, but if those plants have been in those pots for a long time realize that the only nutrients they will get are those you give them. A lot of succulents are sensitive to fertilization so if you decide to fertilize during the growing season you should stick with an organic fertilizer that's formulated for succulents/cacti—Espoma makes one that's widely available. IMO 90% of keeping plants alive is spending time with them and paying attention to what they're doing so that you can learn to recognize when they need water or notice other problems like pests before they have a chance to do a lot of damage. Ok Comboomer posted:I also love the uniform pot look but went with terra cotta due to utility and cost. It was more of a comment on my own cheapness/destitution than a dig at you Ain't nothing wrong with terracotta. suck my woke dick posted:I moved the Aerangis into crates with sphagnum in the bottom to raise humidity. Good: they're all growing happily, new roots are covering everything in sight. Bad: two came from the shop with fungal infections, and oh boy do the fungi love taking over orchids with water pooling on the leaves for hours after the daily watering. Let's see if inverting the things after applying hydrogen peroxide and fungicide will solve the issue. How's the air flow? Constant high humidity and moisture without good air flow is going to be a fungus magnet. As Comboomer said, cinnamon is supposedly an effective fungicide for orchids (though a lot of cinnamon is sold mixed with sugar which could cause some weird poo poo). Neem oil is also effective at smothering fungal spores (and it sticks around for a while) but some plants are sensitive to it. The internet seems to suggest Phalaenopsis, at least, deal with it fine. If you get some you should be careful to pay attention to exactly what you're buying; some places sell neem oil pre-mixed with various insecticides which is probably not what you want. Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 14:40
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anybody here have any moon cactus or are they simply too trashy and common to be popular with people who know the names of their plants? I caved on my ‘no popular novelty poo poo’ rule and got two grafted crested euphorbia over the holidays because I need to have all of the euphorbia, but these feel like the comet goldfish of the houseplant world
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Feb 14, 2021 22:07
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Ok Comboomer posted:anybody here have any moon cactus or are they simply too trashy and common to be popular with people who know the names of their plants? You mean the bright red/yellow/pink jobbers they graft because they don't have any chlorophyll? Those are mutant Gymnocalycium mihanovichii—if you look around there are some that have less intense colors or have the bright red in patches rather than universally that don't have to be grafted.   I posted a Gymnocalycium stenopleurum I just got earlier on the page which should also be a pretty strong red/purple when it's less pissed off about being shipped in a box. There's also a number of people that seem to be importing crested Gymnocalycium baldianum which are pretty cool if you're into that kind of thing.  I pretty much ignore what is or isn't popular and just grow what I like (which is easier because I'm not even sure what's popular). There's enough cool Euphorbia out there to keep yourself busy for a lifetime, though: these motherfuckers have >100 species of succulent Euphorbia listed. Someone is selling an insane cristate lactea on Etsy if you have $600 burning a hole in your pocket.  Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Feb 15, 2021 |
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Feb 15, 2021 14:32
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Wallet posted:You mean the bright red/yellow/pink jobbers they graft because they don't have any chlorophyll? Those are mutant Gymnocalycium mihanovichii—if you look around there are some that have less intense colors or have the bright red in patches rather than universally that don't have to be grafted. oh, I'm aware of how they work--it's the cheap grafted ones I was talking about. I'd love some WT and variegated Gymno (and will probably get some at some point, let's be honest) but unless you come across one in person for the right price they all seem really expensive and in demand. I'm not really interested in spending $60 on a blind-draw 2" plant with a disappointing stripe of yellow in it yet, Mr. Etsy Seller, thank you very much. with the grafteds it seems the biggest issue is making sure the graft is healthy and regrafting after a couple of years when it starts to separate and fail. There also seems to be a small scene of people trying different creative grafts--taking moon Gymno pups and grafting them to the tips of fairy castle Acanthocereus, etc. and yeah, there are some big-time Euphorbia collectors out there, including some dude in Australia who just has a big empty desert plot with like 200 of the biggest fuckers you've ever seen, just like bus-sized plants. I recently got a tiny clump of very stressed 'Firesticks' E. tirucalli to try to nurse back to health. Supposedly they're pretty hardy and vigorous, and good in containers. They get used in landscaping in the southwest a lot and then 1) quickly overgrow and overwhelm their owners or/and 2) bleed caustic xenomorph Euphorbia sap when pruned or/and 3) injure and sicken unsuspecting children and pets who can't resist the beautiful red plant. Mine aren't remotely red yet, but I hope they pull through and multiply, or else I'm going to wind up buying a gallon pot in the summer, most likely. I've got a small container of 'briar patch" tirucalli x stenoclada hybrid, which looks rad. Apparently doesn't turn red like the firesticks but does seem to get a lovely silver-orange patina in places under the right conditions. I need to get a stenoclada cutting, they look amazing. And there's variegated forms out there. In terms of 'wish list' Euphorbia, I still need to get my hands on some lactea and trigona variegates. The lactea crests I have are the blue achromic kind, so that kinda scratches my itch for a white dragon bones lactea, but those lime green/yellow variegated trigonas are something else. Pics:  Euphorbia tirucalli looking better than before, but still kinda sad, next to it is variegated P. afra  Is it future? Or is it past? Euphorbia ‘Briar Patch’ is the arm......and it sounds like this   two shots of Firesticks looking awesome (not mine) Firesticks aren’t even the biggest form of E. tirucalli. The wild type, which doesn’t get red like that, turns into a massive tree. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Feb 15, 2021 |
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Feb 15, 2021 19:56
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I've been water propagating a Maranta leuconeura and a Monstera adansonii, and the former has sprouted 5 2-3cm roots. I think it's ready to put in a pot. In the past I've just used generic garden compost for all my houseplants plants, and it hasn't really caused any problems. But I'd really like these cuttings to be happy - would using a store-bought houseplant mix be worth it? Making my own mix doesn't make any economic sense for me - I would wind up with far too much soil and I'm moving in about six months.
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Feb 15, 2021 23:29
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AfricanBootyShine posted:I've been water propagating a Maranta leuconeura and a Monstera adansonii, and the former has sprouted 5 2-3cm roots. I think it's ready to put in a pot. Get something with perlite for aeration I guess. Might still be cheaper to just get a bag of perlite and mix it into some basic cheap compost.
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Feb 16, 2021 00:25
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Ok Comboomer posted:oh, I'm aware of how they work--it's the cheap grafted ones I was talking about. I'd love some WT and variegated Gymno (and will probably get some at some point, let's be honest) but unless you come across one in person for the right price they all seem really expensive and in demand. I'm not really interested in spending $60 on a blind-draw 2" plant with a disappointing stripe of yellow in it yet, Mr. Etsy Seller, thank you very much. Yeah, I avoid buying plants that small in general because shipping seems to be particularly hard on them, and I definitely wouldn't do it blind. I usually just wait it out until I can find an exact or find it in stock at a seller I have enough experience with to know they won't send me dogshit. There aren't a lot of places to get succulents around here in person unless you're after the common stuff every nursery has. Ok Comboomer posted:Mine aren't remotely red yet, but I hope they pull through and multiply, or else I'm going to wind up buying a gallon pot in the summer, most likely. I try not to torment myself with pictures of perfectly colored up sun stressed succulents. Most of them are from people who live somewhere they can keep their succulents outdoors which is clearly cheating. The tirucalli don't look too bad, though, maybe just a little tired of winter.
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Feb 16, 2021 02:10
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Wallet posted:Yeah, I avoid buying plants that small in general because shipping seems to be particularly hard on them, and I definitely wouldn't do it blind. I usually just wait it out until I can find an exact or find it in stock at a seller I have enough experience with to know they won't send me dogshit. There aren't a lot of places to get succulents around here in person unless you're after the common stuff every nursery has. if you're talking about the pigments that form in ridiculo light, you can pretty easily do that with a simple led strip that's placed close to your plants. pretty much all of our succulents have colouring on them to one degree or another for that reason.
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Feb 16, 2021 04:27
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mediaphage posted:if you're talking about the pigments that form in ridiculo light, you can pretty easily do that with a simple led strip that's placed close to your plants. pretty much all of our succulents have colouring on them to one degree or another for that reason. Eh, sort of. Getting good sun stress coloration isn't always that easy.
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Feb 16, 2021 14:26
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Wallet posted:Eh, sort of. Getting good sun stress coloration isn't always that easy. perhaps i am misunderstanding the term. for example here’s what i’m talking about :  these are both normally green with little to no red (the Schlumbergera sp. sometimes have red tints on new leaves) we just have them under an led strip. in fairness, it’s relatively powerful but imo the key thing is that they’re only a few inches away.
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Feb 16, 2021 15:11
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Could someone recommend a grow light for me? I don't need anything crazy, I just want something to put on my little desk where my succulents live to stop them from stretching out so much looking for light. Also, is there a good beginner guide to propagating these little guys? One of mine has gotten extremely tall and I'd like to cut it up and turn it into a couple more succulents if that's possible.
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Feb 16, 2021 20:27
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tildes posted:Could someone recommend a grow light for me? I don't need anything crazy, I just want something to put on my little desk where my succulents live to stop them from stretching out so much looking for light. what’s your price range? also, how bright are you willing to put up with?
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Feb 16, 2021 21:41
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