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WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh
So once again Amazon have let me down and I won't be getting my Hyper 212 Black Edition tomorrow.

I've now ordered an Arctic Freezer 34 eSports from another site. Is that a decent/good/better choice?

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Sarcastro posted:

I'm gradually building into my Meshify C, and while it's great so far, a couple of thoughts have occurred as I go along:
1) the SATA cables that came with my power supply for the SSDs have the connectors spliced in as perpendicular to the length of the cable, and I can't fathom how a person would correctly get those twisted in order to connect to where the SSDs would go on the backside of the motherboard area, given the very slim space between the SSD plate and the case panel. Contributory to my decision to just go entirely with M2 drives for now.
2) I can't fathom how a builder would be able to thread the power cables out of the supply and up to where they need to go if one were actually using the HDD cage. It sits directly where the power supply cables connect! There's no loving way! Moot, since I (and I'd imagine most people right now) aren't using it at all and just took it out, or at most just use one of its slots and then the power cables could slide through the second, but it's really odd.
3) Same with the removable plate on the power supply shroud - it seems like the cabling would be extremely tight through the back if you left the plate on, but maybe I'm mistaken there.

Shove the cage all the way against the front of the case. That’s we’re it ends up for most people if they’re going to use it.

Al2001
Apr 7, 2007

You've gone through at the back

Butterfly Valley posted:

Honestly that's not the worst deal. If you were buying both separately at RRP it would come to ~£200, and from a quick check the 3400G looks even more scarce than when I scouted for one for my friend to order. It's a decent quality motherboard rather than the poo poo that's usually packed in with these bundles, and it does everything you'd need it to. For your use case though 32GB of RAM is totally unnecessary and I'd stick with your original choice and save some money there. Microsoft Flight Sim is the only game that exists that even uses more than 16GB and you're not going to be playing that on an APU.

Thanks again. I was almost ready to pull the trigger when I spotted this i5-based Dell, and wondered if it's a better bet.

Any thoughts?

EDIT2: the reviews for this thing suck, I should do basic research before posting!
EDIT: I just realised the price is £700+ including VAT which makes it a bit less interesting

Al2001 fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Feb 9, 2021

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

WattsvilleBlues posted:

So once again Amazon have let me down and I won't be getting my Hyper 212 Black Edition tomorrow.

I've now ordered an Arctic Freezer 34 eSports from another site. Is that a decent/good/better choice?

I think that’s a fine choice. Looks like it’s done well in reviews and is a little less fuss to install.

Al2001 posted:

Thanks again. I was almost ready to pull the trigger when I spotted this i5-based Dell, and wondered if it's a better bet.

Any thoughts?

EDIT: I just realised the price is £700+ including VAT which makes it a bit less interesting

The Dell would be more capable, but I think a 3400G will do what you have in mind pretty well. There definitely is a performance increase (with the GPU mostly), but if it’s beyond your budget, I really wouldn’t fret. There’s still plenty of games the Vega can run, and you can always add a GPU later when the market (hopefully) stabilizes.

Bakalakadaka
Sep 18, 2004

spunkshui posted:

During normal hardware prices it was already not recommended to upgrade "just because."

Its best to upgrade when you actually can tell your hardware has become unacceptable.

Every year you wait hardware improves. DDR5 will be here very very soon.

What does your current setup not do correctly?

Honestly the current setup for my gaming PC is fine. I could maybe get slightly better performance in a few of the games I play but I don't particularly need that. I'm really just trying to gauge if it's worth upgrading anything right now after the old 128GB SSD I had windows on for my work PC died on me (everything important was on a separate HDD in the system and I replaced the SSD with a newer 500GB one). I'll probably be fine just making sure I still have things backed up in case the other parts do decide to start dying on me.

The Grumbles
Jun 5, 2006
As dumb and faux-macho pro gamer a lot of PC component naming conventions are, I think I find branding on RAM the most hilarious. G.Skill Ripjaws, Corsair Vengeance and Cruial Ballistix are the main high-end brands, and they all sound like they were named by a dude who works at a paintball range and owns a lighter with the US Marines emblem on it. It loads data from the hard drive so it can be read by a CPU. Its RAM.

I wouldn't mind if it weren't for the fact that the stupid branding is usually plastered all over the components themselves. I wish there were more hi-end components like Noctua, that were just a bit more - tasteful? - while still being good for games.

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


At least most of it isn't visible branding once it's actually slotted in. I got Vengeance RAM for my upgrade and it's just plain black on top. Sadly not a patch visually on the blue and white HyperX sticks I've had for the last 5 years though. Noctua stuff I just can't ever get over how Brown they are.

The Grumbles
Jun 5, 2006

njsykora posted:

At least most of it isn't visible branding once it's actually slotted in. I got Vengeance RAM for my upgrade and it's just plain black on top. Sadly not a patch visually on the blue and white HyperX sticks I've had for the last 5 years though. Noctua stuff I just can't ever get over how Brown they are.

Mine is completely visible! I can just see the word BALLISTIX in a vaguely army style font through the glass side panel of my case. Please, manufacturers. I'm in my 30's. Just give me some plain components in tasteful colours with scandinavian sounding brand names that don't actually mean anything.

Fantastic Foreskin
Jan 6, 2013

A golden helix streaked skyward from the Helvault. A thunderous explosion shattered the silver monolith and Avacyn emerged, free from her prison at last.

The Grumbles posted:

Mine is completely visible! I can just see the word BALLISTIX in a vaguely army style font through the glass side panel of my case. Please, manufacturers. I'm in my 30's. Just give me some plain components in tasteful colours with scandinavian sounding brand names that don't actually mean anything.

Paint the side panel?

MaxxBot
Oct 6, 2003

you could have clapped

you should have clapped!!

The Grumbles posted:

As dumb and faux-macho pro gamer a lot of PC component naming conventions are, I think I find branding on RAM the most hilarious. G.Skill Ripjaws, Corsair Vengeance and Cruial Ballistix are the main high-end brands, and they all sound like they were named by a dude who works at a paintball range and owns a lighter with the US Marines emblem on it. It loads data from the hard drive so it can be read by a CPU. Its RAM.

I wouldn't mind if it weren't for the fact that the stupid branding is usually plastered all over the components themselves. I wish there were more hi-end components like Noctua, that were just a bit more - tasteful? - while still being good for games.

At least the trend in cases seems to be away from this and towards simpler, cleaner styling. You can hide away all of your RGB, bullet heatsinked parts out of sight too.

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


At least it's still the case that RGB enabled components cost more so you save money by not giving a poo poo about it.

Gaj
Apr 30, 2006
Hey thread. I want to build a new better gaming rig based on my existing hardware. My current comp is dying from memory and power issues so I just want to start with fresh new parts.

Current rig:
CPU: Intel i5 7600k (discontinued)
MOBO: Asus PRIME Z270-A
RAM: Corsair DDR4 16 gigs
VIDEO: Nvidia GTX 1080 (2 years old,unknown ram amount, cpu-z aint helping)

This is my tentative set up for a replacement rig for about 2kish~
CPU: Intel Core i7-10700 https://www.newegg.com/intel-core-i7-10700-core-i7-10th-gen/p/N82E16819118126?Item=N82E16819118126
MOBO: ASUS PRIME Z490 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813119289?Item=N82E16813119289
RAM: CORSAIR 32g https://www.newegg.com/corsair-32gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820236607?Item=N82E16820236607
VIDEO: RADEON RX-5600XT https://www.newegg.com/msi-radeon-rx-5600-xt-rx-5600-xt-gaming-mx/p/N82E16814137571?Item=9SIA23XDH21025

So the thing Im most out of touch with is vcard pricing, what the gently caress is going on here? Is this all just bitcoiners going crazy or is the market still hosed because of the pandemic? I havent read up on new cards coming out I dont know what would be an upgrade or just considered a spec replacement.

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.
Throw that build out and go with one based around a Ryzen 5600x or 5800x if you have specific workloads that take advantage of extra cores/want to spend a bit more because it would fit in a $2k budget, a b550 motherboard and an RTX 3080. In answer to your question: yes.

You should at least be able to get together most of your build easily enough and drop in your 1080 to tide you over until you can find an RTX 3080 at non-insane prices ($700 MSRP for the FE card in the US, with AIBs going for $100 or so more, although there's some tariff fuckery potentially affecting prices and idk I'm not American). The card you selected is not an $800 card, it's over a year old and should retail for $270ish. Don't trust random reseller prices on newegg or amazon or whatever.

Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Feb 9, 2021

Gaj
Apr 30, 2006

Butterfly Valley posted:

Throw that build out and go with one based around a Ryzen 5600x or 5800x if you have specific workloads that take advantage of extra cores/want to spend a bit more because it would fit in a $2k budget, a b550 motherboard and an RTX 3080. In answer to your question: yes.

You should at least be able to get together most of your build easily enough and drop in your 1080 to tide you over until you can find an RTX 3080 at non-insane prices ($700 MSRP for the FE card in the US, with AIBs going for $100 or so more, although there's some tariff fuckery potentially affecting prices and idk I'm not American). The card you selected is not an $800 card, it's over a year old and should retail for $270ish. Don't trust random reseller prices on newegg or amazon or whatever.

OK I can do that. Just one issue, how do I sift through the lovely amazon sellers?

OutletPC
eTronix World
USA BUY
ZAR Systems Germany
AztekComputers
BeachAudio
Joe's Tech Shop
MLCS JAPAN
Platinum Micro, Inc.
SavingCOST

I can get a Ryzen reasonably priced from these guys but Ive only ever used Newegg in the past.

New Specs:
CPU Ryzen 5600
MOBO Asus ROG STRIX B550 https://www.newegg.com/asus-rog-str...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds
RAM: can I use the same listed above?
Vard: A GTX 3080, when available, for 800~900 when its available?

Scythe
Jan 26, 2004
Apologies if this should go in the GPU or Monitors threads, I'm in the market for everything at once and trying to figure out which decision to make first. I'll delete/repost if this seems like the wrong spot.

I'd like to get a gaming PC together again for the first time in like 20 years. The last PC I built myself I think had a Pentium III, a Voodoo3, and a Trinitron (it was pretty sick at the time). I don't need super-top-end money-is-no-object poo poo, but I don't want to needlessly limit myself either. I'm looking for the best performance/$ possible, with "as quiet as possible" a secondary goal. Will be using this for games and that's pretty much it, no streaming or anything. I'll probably dual boot Linux because that's something else I haven't done in a decade plus, but whatever.

Question area 1: Non-graphics parts: The OP says not to build a PC because of part shortages right now. I'm... not seeing much of a problem over the last few days with CPUs/memory/cases/etc on pcpartpicker, with most things being in stock and with stable prices over the last few months, excepting GPUs which appear to be a shitshow. Am I missing something here?

Assuming the shortages are mostly localized to GPUs, I was thinking about an AMD Ryzen 5 3600, 16GB of DDR3-3600 RAM, some kind of mini-ITX board (why not make it small too? though, recommendations welcome here), a 500GB M.2 SSD, whatever Gold+ PSU and decent ITX case. This example build, minus graphics, is netting out at ~$650 right now.

  • Does this seem like the right point on the value curve for most bang for buck? Is anything I've written wrong?
  • For quiet, should I be looking at third-party CPU coolers? If so, which? And are there any cases that are especially quiet? Should I be considering replacing case fans with like Noctuas (are they still the quietest?) or something?
  • For motherboards, I care about compatibility/stability more than anything else, then audio quality (since I gather onboard audio is fine now, but maybe some are better than others?). Wifi is a nice plus but this computer will be right next to my router so wired ethernet is fine too. Given the above, should I be looking at ASRock or Asus or something besides the Gigabyte I linked in that pcpartpicker list? Should I move up to microATX rather than mini-ITX for some reason?

Question area 2: Graphics parts: Since I don't have a monitor either, it seems like I should be choosing my GPU and monitor simultaneously to work well together. Also, it does seem like midrange GPUs are somewhat impossible to find at the moment.

  • Is 1440p the best spot on the price/performance curve? It seems like 4K is twice the price for both GPUs and monitors, and 1080p is only a little cheaper, if I'm understanding which cards can do what properly.
  • I was thinking about GeForce GTX 1660/Super/Ti as a GPU chipset--does that seem about right for 1440p, or should I be looking higher or lower, or at AMD?
  • Are there any 1660 cards that are especially good/quiet, or are they pretty much the same as long as they're a reputable brand? Should I be thinking about swapping in aftermarket cooling to make the card quieter, and if so, how does that work these days?
  • What's the best way to actually get a GPU at/near MSRP right now? Watch pcpartpicker and pounce? Is that a fool's errand and I should just wait a few months?
  • Monitor recs? I, again, mostly just want value and a good match for whatever GPU (i.e. the right native res to match the card's sweet spot for game performance). Ideally it'd also have USB-C input so I could use it as a secondary monitor for my work laptop (2017 MBP) during the day.

Sorry for the questions all at once, but all these things seem bound up together, maybe just because I've been out of the game so long. Thanks!

Tiggum
Oct 24, 2007

Your life and your quest end here.


Boxman posted:

A small thing - I think it would be a really hard mistake to make by accident, but SATA M.2 drives do exist. Tiggum needs to buy a 2.5" form factor SSD (which will be SATA, so you weren't wrong, I'm just nitpicking).

In terms of quality, like most things, there's a sweet spot. You don't need to go super high end. There are performance gains to be had, but they're way out of whack with cost increases. Dodge the bottom of the barrel, too; again, there are performance losses, but the risk of data loss is greater. Realistically its unlikely to be an issue on the low end, but its one of those low risk/high impact things. I think Crucial, WD's Blue line, and whatever Samsung is calling their lower end drives are all generally accepted choices.
Thanks. This is exactly the information I was looking for.

Ugly In The Morning
Jul 1, 2010
Pillbug
I have a crucial BX500 and for a lower end drive it’s been pretty great. Was nice to be able to just chuck 2TB in for 200 bucks.

E:the MX500 2TB is only 20 bucks more than the BX right now and it’s a little higher end. Unlikely to make a major difference either way. I use an MX in my laptop since that’s only got one drive in it. The BX is in my desktop computer and it’s one of like five drives in there so I didn’t go fancy.

Ugly In The Morning fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Feb 9, 2021

Palladium
May 8, 2012

Very Good
✔️✔️✔️✔️

Ugly In The Morning posted:

I have a crucial BX500 and for a lower end drive it’s been pretty great. Was nice to be able to just chuck 2TB in for 200 bucks.

E:the MX500 2TB is only 20 bucks more than the BX right now and it’s a little higher end. Unlikely to make a major difference either way. I use an MX in my laptop since that’s only got one drive in it. The BX is in my desktop computer and it’s one of like five drives in there so I didn’t go fancy.

Sorry to burst your bubble but the BX500 is godawful even for low end SATA drive.

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh

nitsuga posted:

I think that’s a fine choice. Looks like it’s done well in reviews and is a little less fuss to install.

Cheers squire. Feel like I've been waiting on building this thing for months but it's only been a week.

life of lemons
Sep 7, 2005

I steal stuff all the time.
Hi,

Looking to start fresh after 7 or so years on my current PC that's slowly fading away.
I'm in Australia, so haven't bothered with the prices. Appears to be a GPU shortage so had to go a shelf higher than expected on that component.

I've got a 144hz 1440 monitor ready to go and don't really have any concrete aims aside from hopefully being able to use the new PC for a fair amount of time too.
I play CS and know that won't be an issue getting up to the higher frame rates with practically any PC these days, and aside from that just general gaming and maybe a look into VR later this year.

The other thing I have no clue about is wifi. My current PC doesn't have a wifi connection, so I have am using a little wifi receiver that sits on my desktop and plugs into a usb port. I'm pretty happy with it, though it feels a little clunky, and I see there are options to have a similar adaptor slot directly into the motherboard, so I'd like to make sure the board I get can accommodate something like that.

I chose the case somewhat arbitrarily, I couldn't care less what the box looks like.

CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 3600

Motherboard
Gigabyte - GA-B550M AORUS PRO

Graphics
ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 3070 Twin Edge OC

Memory
Crucial Ballistix 16GB (2x8GB) PC-25600 (3200MHz) DDR4

SDD
Kingston 1TB SSD, A2000

Case
Cougar MX330-G Air Black ATX Case

Power Supply
Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 650W Power Supply

I'm happy with the price this all costs, but if there's anything obviously stupid I'd love to know.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
Two options for non-USB wifi:

1) Board with wifi built in is most straightforward. The MSI MAG B550 Mortar Wifi is a decent choice that's relatively cheap, as is the Asus TUF Gaming B550 M Plus.

2) Alternatively, a PCI-e card will do the trick.

Specific to your build, your video card is 2 slots wide, so any 3-slot mATX motherboard will technically fit a wifi card. Wifi cards are small, so airflow impact is low, but you could buy the full ATX version of your selected motherboard and get a little bit more space and extra PCI-e slots to provide more room between your GPU and wifi card. Full ATX version is the Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro, vs the B550M Aorus Pro which is mATX. There's no downside in your case which is already huge, you might as well take advantage of full ATX case size.

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Scythe posted:

Sorry for the questions all at once, but all these things seem bound up together, maybe just because I've been out of the game so long. Thanks!

Rather than going through your post question by question I'll address these important ones and the rest with broad strokes.

What's your overall budget?

Scythe posted:

Is 1440p the best spot on the price/performance curve? It seems like 4K is twice the price for both GPUs and monitors, and 1080p is only a little cheaper, if I'm understanding which cards can do what properly.
I was thinking about GeForce GTX 1660/Super/Ti as a GPU chipset--does that seem about right for 1440p, or should I be looking higher or lower, or at AMD?

Yes, 1440p 144hz monitors are the sweet spot at the moment. No, a 1660 isn't going to cut it at that resolution. You want at least a 3060ti, preferably higher imo.

Scythe posted:

I don't need super-top-end money-is-no-object poo poo, but I don't want to needlessly limit myself either. I'm looking for the best performance/$ possible, with "as quiet as possible" a secondary goal.

There's best value builds at a range of different budgets, apart from the usual caveats with the super high end stuff representing very diminishing returns, hence the need to state an overall budget. If you want to aim for the mid to high range required to decently power a high refresh rate 1440p screen though you need to spend around $1000 sans monitor, but you could spend up to $1600ish before you get to 'money for the sake of it' territory. If you have niche workflow needs or you're trying to power a 4k monitor this range is obviously very different.

Scythe posted:

Monitor recs? I, again, mostly just want value and a good match for whatever GPU (i.e. the right native res to match the card's sweet spot for game performance). Ideally it'd also have USB-C input so I could use it as a secondary monitor for my work laptop (2017 MBP) during the day.

There's a specific monitor thread for this, but I don't think you'll find thunderbolt on any of the monitors you're looking for. There are Thunderbolt 3 to displayport adapters that seem to work but you definitely need to do more research there because it's a notoriously finicky standard.

To your general questions, settle on your main components (GPU, CPU and case size to determine mATX/ITX mobo) and then worry about the rest once you have more of an idea. One of the current best regarded and value ITX cases is the Coolermaster NR200p, which is a high airflow case and has great cooling potential so it doesn't run overly hot or noisy compared to larger builds. It's still an ITX case so building in it is tougher than a giant ATX box although I just had my first build in 15 years in one and found it an enjoyable experience. Noctua do still make the best fans but there's other options that perform nearly as well for a fraction of the price. You don't need to worry about deshrouding a GPU. The main motherboard manufacturers are much of a muchness these days and you can just pick based on what features they have and the I/O.

Buying a GPU is hard. There's stock tracking discords you need to set up to ping alerts if you want any chance of getting one at a reasonable price in a reasonable time frame.

Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Feb 9, 2021

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
My nephew is getting ready to build his first PC, and I wanted to run it by the thread to get some input on it. I haven't built one before, I just got mine prebuilt. Any issues here? He's 14, so no need for any real high end stuff. He's mostly going to be playing some games on it.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($53.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.49 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB AERO ITX OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $964.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-09 10:23 EST-0500

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Zuul the Cat posted:

My nephew is getting ready to build his first PC, and I wanted to run it by the thread to get some input on it. I haven't built one before, I just got mine prebuilt. Any issues here? He's 14, so no need for any real high end stuff. He's mostly going to be playing some games on it.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($53.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.49 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB AERO ITX OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $964.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-09 10:23 EST-0500

This seems totally fine for gaming at 1080p but for the love of god don't spend over $300 on a 1650 super if you can help it

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Zuul the Cat posted:

Any issues here?


spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Zuul the Cat posted:

My nephew is getting ready to build his first PC, and I wanted to run it by the thread to get some input on it. I haven't built one before, I just got mine prebuilt. Any issues here? He's 14, so no need for any real high end stuff. He's mostly going to be playing some games on it.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($53.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.49 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB AERO ITX OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $964.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-09 10:23 EST-0500

Id try to find the GPU used.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Zuul the Cat posted:

My nephew is getting ready to build his first PC, and I wanted to run it by the thread to get some input on it. I haven't built one before, I just got mine prebuilt. Any issues here? He's 14, so no need for any real high end stuff. He's mostly going to be playing some games on it.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($53.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.49 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB AERO ITX OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $964.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-09 10:23 EST-0500

Actual max budget would be helpful.

CPU and board should be fine.

3600Mhz ram is preferable if you can find a good price, but not required. You're paying an absolute ton for RGB and I dunno how much you care.

Ideally, you want an SN550 for the ssd. I'd cut the 2TB rust and buy a 1tb SN550 ssd. The only way I wouldn't do that is if he needs that 2TB space right this second. HDDs only get cheaper as time goes on and he can upgrade later.

If you can wait it out, a 1650 super at $349 is not a good value. GPU availability is a huge issue though.

That PSU is asking for it.

You don't have a case. Cases are highly preferential and we'd need more input to help with a case pick.


PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($86.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $591.95
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-09 10:53 EST-0500



This is what I'd do, and add a 3060 (when they drop) or 3060Ti, if you can get one. Or buy a used GPU like spunkshui said. It's a good option.

The ram can be red or white as well.

You can spend $10 more for the a fully modular PSU.

Boxman
Sep 27, 2004

Big fan of :frog:


spunkshui posted:

Id try to find the GPU used.

That doesn't even help. The drat thing regularly sells for $300 on eBay.

Just to make it explicit for Zuul's benefit - this is an insanely bad time to build a machine that needs a discrete GPU. Buying pre-built will let you get newer hardware for less of a headache than retail, and you don't have to worry about insane secondary market prices like you're seeing there. Alternatively, tell the kid to sign up for some stock drop discords and snipe a card.

Also, if the primary use case is just games, it's possible that a spinning disc for secondary storage is wrong. On a $1k budget, I'd recommend paying the extra $40 and side-grading to a 1TB SSD. Nephew's patterns matter a lot (if they're jumping between 15 different games frequently and have a lovely internet connection, I guess they might want all those installed at once) but for most people the improvement in load times is the correct trade off.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
Best Buy has Nvidia 3 series cards up now gogogogo

Electric Crayon
Jul 20, 2004

Oh, it's you!
Failed to secure a ryzen 5900 or a 5950 from the Best Buy drop. I wish I lived in a city with a Microcenter or any sort of store that received actual units so I could just waste a night, pick one up and build my computer - but I guess the South Florida metropolitan area is unworthy of such luxury. My 3090 will continue to collect dust.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



Electric Crayon posted:

Failed to secure a ryzen 5900 or a 5950 from the Best Buy drop. I wish I lived in a city with a Microcenter or any sort of store that received actual units so I could just waste a night, pick one up and build my computer - but I guess the South Florida metropolitan area is unworthy of such luxury. My 3090 will continue to collect dust.

More like, "waste a night for the chance to maybe buy some random current gen parts."

doomrider7
Nov 29, 2018

canyoneer posted:

Best Buy has Nvidia 3 series cards up now gogogogo

I missed the drop. :'(

doomrider7
Nov 29, 2018

Zuul the Cat posted:

My nephew is getting ready to build his first PC, and I wanted to run it by the thread to get some input on it. I haven't built one before, I just got mine prebuilt. Any issues here? He's 14, so no need for any real high end stuff. He's mostly going to be playing some games on it.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($53.99 @ Western Digital)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.49 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB AERO ITX OC Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($74.98 @ Amazon)
Total: $964.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-02-09 10:23 EST-0500

In the implausible event that I score a card and thus no longer need mine, I can sell you my 1080 Zotac amp extreme for $320(shipping free) or whatever you think is a fair deal.

SeXTcube
Jan 1, 2009

doomrider7 posted:

I missed the drop. :'(
I was fantasizing over my part list and looking at stock, instead of working, and saw them up nearly the moment they went live. Still got queued and missed out on CPU and GPU.

I haven't built a PC from scratch since like 2011 and this has been a miserable experience.

Upside Potential
Jun 14, 2006
If you think this guy is terrible, wait till next year.
I have given up on finding a GPU. How terrible of a value is this:
https://www.costco.com/hp-omen-25l-gaming-desktop---amd-ryzen-7-3700x---radeon-rx-5700.product.100579374.html

Mainly play Stellaris and older games.

Ugly In The Morning
Jul 1, 2010
Pillbug

Upside Potential posted:

I have given up on finding a GPU. How terrible of a value is this:
https://www.costco.com/hp-omen-25l-gaming-desktop---amd-ryzen-7-3700x---radeon-rx-5700.product.100579374.html

Mainly play Stellaris and older games.

I had an Omen and it was decent, but the case left something to be desired in terms of being able to do upgrades. It could fit a 3080 but it would have to be a Founder’s Edition. Only one M.2 slot on the motherboard, too.

Palladium posted:

Sorry to burst your bubble but the BX500 is godawful even for low end SATA drive.

My read/write speeds are fine when I benchmark them. It’s not my boot drive so I can’t speak to how long it takes to get Windows up and running.

doomrider7
Nov 29, 2018

Steve Jorbs posted:

I was fantasizing over my part list and looking at stock, instead of working, and saw them up nearly the moment they went live. Still got queued and missed out on CPU and GPU.

I haven't built a PC from scratch since like 2011 and this has been a miserable experience.

I was right there on the page. Clicked the loving thing and everything. When it stopped, it told me sold out on both the 3080 and 3090. Am bummed. I might actually try and buy a PS5 and parlay that into 3080 or something since I have seen some people accept those as trades.

vanilla slimfast
Dec 6, 2006

If anyone needs me, I'll be in the Angry Dome



Scythe posted:

Monitor recs? I, again, mostly just want value and a good match for whatever GPU (i.e. the right native res to match the card's sweet spot for game performance). Ideally it'd also have USB-C input so I could use it as a secondary monitor for my work laptop (2017 MBP) during the day.

You can connect a MBP to a monitor using USB-C to HDMI or USB-C to DisplayPort cables. I’m currently using two Dell curved 32” 1440p monitors that I switch between my work MBP and my personal PC and it works fine. For bonus points I have all my other peripherals running through a USB switch that effectively allows me to use it like a KVM so I only have one keyboard/camera/audio interface for my desk that hot swaps between both setups.

Be aware that going this route is not a Thunderbolt 3 connection, so it won’t allow you to extend peripherals and it won’t charge your laptop the way that native TB3 monitors can like the LG UltraFine

I had one of those TB3 LG monitors from work as well, and they are extremely nice, but it is extremely convoluted to try and use them with anything other than a Mac which is why I eventually got two of the same Dell monitors for consistency

doomrider7
Nov 29, 2018
Finished upgrading the parts, but it's not booting into my SSD with windows in it. Everything is plugged in and running just fine. Any suggestions?

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stellers bae
Feb 10, 2021

by Hand Knit
https://slickdeals.net/f/14826469-1200-begins-02-11-alienware-aurora-r10-desktop-3700x-rtx-3070-16gb-ram-512gb-nvme?page=15

I was able to snag this Alienware (lol) with a 3700X + 3070 for $1239 before the deal goes live by talking to the Dell chat agent - is this thing worth it for that price?

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