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dupersaurus posted:I've got a motion-detecting light switch in my mud room, with two doors. It's about 8ft away from the second door, and triggering it from that far away is a bit of a coin flip. The device doesn't say anything about range, but it's obviously struggling. Is there anything I can do (like maybe stick something reflective on the door) to help it out? Yeah if it's a Lutron switch there is definitely a setting for high sensitivity, and also you may have it in the wrong mode; Lutron sometimes has a really dumb "daylight sensing" option that is supposed to only work after the sun goes down but in reality just makes the poo poo really inconsistent.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 04:26 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:20 |
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Hi kind and artisty people I have been trying to find a piece of data for a project and I can't find the precise answer online. Are the sized of watercolor pans standarized across brands in any way ? If I buy, say, half pans from different brands will they be the same size? I would to shops and check myself, but between lockdowns and a high-risk spouse, well, I ain't, doing that. Thanks in advance!
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 20:31 |
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Most half pans, across brands, appear to be 19x16x10mm/0.7x0.6x0.4inch; Capacity: 1.6ml. Some are 9.5mm high.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 20:36 |
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floWenoL posted:Nope, no lever! I took off the tub overflow plate a while ago and didn't see anything a lever would attach to, but I'll double-check. Does your drain have a black/grey plate at the bottom inside, or is that literally raw sewage?
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 21:05 |
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Weird question I know, but is there any way to use a European light fixture (in this case a floor lamp) in an American home? Obviously it would be 230V and I would have 120V. Yes I have an actual reason for this question :p
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 21:16 |
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actionjackson posted:Weird question I know, but is there any way to use a European light fixture (in this case a floor lamp) in an American home? Obviously it would be 230V and I would have 120V. Yes I have an actual reason for this question :p Probably/it depends, do you have a picture/description of this floor lamp?
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 21:24 |
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Elviscat posted:Probably/it depends, do you have a picture/description of this floor lamp? https://www.dmlights.com/louis_poulsen_yuh_floor_dim___automatic_switch_off_black~12ZKZ technical details are about halfway down they also said it's not UL listed, is that a safety issue?
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 21:36 |
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Wasabi the J posted:Yeah if it's a Lutron switch there is definitely a setting for high sensitivity, and also you may have it in the wrong mode; Lutron sometimes has a really dumb "daylight sensing" option that is supposed to only work after the sun goes down but in reality just makes the poo poo really inconsistent. I thought I had it set high (of course it doesn't tell you), but I re-set it just in case. Also turned daylight mode off. We'll see how it goes
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 21:46 |
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actionjackson posted:https://www.dmlights.com/louis_poulsen_yuh_floor_dim___automatic_switch_off_black~12ZKZ Lol, they hide the appearance of the wall wart in every picture. So, it's powered by a 12V power supply, there's a good chance that it's a voltage detecting power supply, you'll have to look at the power supply to determine if that's true (should say something like input voltage: 100-240V), if it is true you can put an American plug on it and use it. If it's not a multi voltage power supply, you'll have to get a 120V 12V power supply and wire it in, which should be doable pretty easy and safely. Something like this should work fine. For UL listing, I can pretty much guarantee you the $500 floor lamp sold in a Scandanavian country is listed by some sort of testing lab, and the product will be safe, the EU's NRTL equivalent, CE, is more thorough than UL anyways, no one's breaking your door down and checking your NRTL stickers either way, plus if you modify it you're invalidating any sort of listing anyway. E: The manufacturer sells a power supply with a US adapter in their website. That is a generic as gently caress Chinese-made LED power supply if you want to get one for $10 on Amazon instead of paying $50. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Feb 9, 2021 |
# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:06 |
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Elviscat posted:So, it's powered by a 12V power supply, there's a good chance that it's a voltage detecting power supply, you'll have to look at the power supply to determine if that's true (should say something like input voltage: 100-240V), if it is true you can put an American plug on it and use it.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:18 |
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Flipperwaldt posted:This is stated explicitly in the manual you can find on that page. Yes, 100-240V 50/60Hz compatible power supply. There's even a picture where it shows it comes with a set of pin adapter plates so you're fine buying this for the US from the EU, UK, Japan or Singapore. Buying from Australia, Korea and China would give you a different set of adapter plates that wouldn't include a fitting one for the US. Yeah, I found that and edited my post, they kinda bury that info.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:21 |
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, I found that and edited my post, they kinda bury that info.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:32 |
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thanks guys, so I could use that lamp as long as I buy the adaptor? the reason I asked is because that's quite a bit less than buying it from a US store, and there's no VAT or shipping cost. But there is still an import tax which might erase much of the difference.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:40 |
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actionjackson posted:thanks guys, so I could use that lamp as long as I buy the adaptor? No, the adapter is included.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:42 |
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Elviscat posted:No, the adapter is included. I wasn't sure if I would get all four of those plugs/plates in the picture with the red box around it, or just the EU one. Though even if it just came with the EU one I already have an adapter that I used for traveling.
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# ? Feb 9, 2021 22:49 |
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actionjackson posted:Weird question I know, but is there any way to use a European light fixture (in this case a floor lamp) in an American home? Obviously it would be 230V and I would have 120V. Yes I have an actual reason for this question :p Assuming you have a standard threaded bulb socket: Put on a US plug and screw in a 110V bulb. My family lived in Europe for seven years. We brought our lamps & put plugs on, and (in France in 1975) installed bayonet sockets.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 00:19 |
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How do I change the bulbs in these fuckers? Every set of instructions I can find for these sorts of recessed ceiling lights is either "grasp the inner ring and rotate it" or "press against the bulb and rotate it", but the inner ring doesn't rotate, it just swivels ~30° left or right (presumably, the mountings that let it swivel also couple it to the outer ring, so it can't be rotated that way), and the bulb recesses slightly when pressed but does not rotate either -- and even if it did, the inner ring is narrower at the front than the bulb itself, so I don't see how it could be removed that way. I can't rotate the outer ring either. At this point my best guess is "remove an adjacent ceiling tile and dismantle the entire light fixture from behind", but that can't possibly be how you're meant to do this, can it?
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 00:51 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Assuming you have a standard threaded bulb socket: Put on a US plug and screw in a 110V bulb. thanks - it's not standard. I don't even think the light itself can be replaced except by a professional, but they typically last forever. I looked at the product info for the US and EU version, and in both cases it said "LED 2700K 10W" for the bulb, so maybe I would only need to change the plug?
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 01:00 |
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actionjackson posted:thanks - it's not standard. I don't even think the light itself can be replaced except by a professional, but they typically last forever. Sorry, thought you were referring to a standard light fixture until I saw the following replies. The tech spec manual you posted shows the transformer is rated to handle 100V-230V so in a pinch, you could either stick a Euro ---> US plug adapter on it, or cut the Euro plug off and wire on a US plug as long as you preserve polarity - plus (hot) to plus, and ground/common to ground/common.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 01:12 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Sorry, thought you were referring to a standard light fixture until I saw the following replies. thanks, I don't have electrical skills behind plugging in an adaptor, but it sounds like just doing that is fine, since it covers 100-230V? edit: I'd also be curious why there would be such a big price difference between the US and EU versions of a light fixture. Does it have to do with electrical standards required? actionjackson fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Feb 10, 2021 |
# ? Feb 10, 2021 01:23 |
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ToxicFrog posted:
If they're like the lights in my ceiling you grab the outer ring and pull it out. Both the outer ring, inner ring and bulb will come down, from there you can easily separate the rings from the bulb, swap the bulb and reattach everything. The outer ring is friction fit in a can, a bit of twisting can help loosen it if it's too tight.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 01:49 |
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Meow Meow Meow posted:If they're like the lights in my ceiling you grab the outer ring and pull it out. Both the outer ring, inner ring and bulb will come down, from there you can easily separate the rings from the bulb, swap the bulb and reattach everything. The outer ring is friction fit in a can, a bit of twisting can help loosen it if it's too tight. Ok, I'll give that a try -- that may be tricky to do without damaging the ceiling tile (which is all that's supporting the light fixture) but if that's how you do it that might explain the damage some of the other tiles have.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 01:59 |
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actionjackson posted:thanks, I don't have electrical skills behind plugging in an adaptor, but it sounds like just doing that is fine, since it covers 100-230V? You can't cut the plug off, because it's molded into the power supply case, it most likely comes with the adapter, if not it's fed by a little LED power supply, google "LED Power Supply" and you'll get your choice of a billion cheap power supplies with a 5.5mm DC cannon plug that should work with the light as-is.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 02:09 |
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Elviscat posted:You can't cut the plug off, because it's molded into the power supply case, it most likely comes with the adapter, if not it's fed by a little LED power supply, google "LED Power Supply" and you'll get your choice of a billion cheap power supplies with a 5.5mm DC cannon plug that should work with the light as-is. Just check that the current matches.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 03:38 |
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yippee cahier posted:Just check that the current matches. It's 10W, you would have to search really hard for a power supply that delivers under 10W (0.83A)
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 04:09 |
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Elviscat posted:You can't cut the plug off, because it's molded into the power supply case, it most likely comes with the adapter, if not it's fed by a little LED power supply, google "LED Power Supply" and you'll get your choice of a billion cheap power supplies with a 5.5mm DC cannon plug that should work with the light as-is. Yeah, and as mentioned above the adaptor is exactly the same in the US and EU version, it's just the plug on the end is different of course. So I should be able to use the EU plug and then a EU-US adaptor like the ones you use when travelling.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 06:17 |
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FogHelmut posted:Does your drain have a black/grey plate at the bottom inside, or is that literally raw sewage? That's not a plate, that's a sharp bend in the drain pipe itself (AFAICT). I'm guessing it's a fairly old pipe, which is why the texture is so rough and the color is so dark. I've verified that it's not raw sewage. :P For comparison, here's a pic of the overflow pipe:
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 06:37 |
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So I was inspecting the faucet supply lines in the bathroom, and I noticed that they were copper pipes: Is there any reason to keep them, or can I just replace them with the usual braided stainless steel ones, e.g. these? (I was planning on replacing the shutoff valves since one of them won't even turn anymore, so I figure I may as well replace the supply lines...)
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 06:46 |
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floWenoL posted:So I was inspecting the faucet supply lines in the bathroom, and I noticed that they were copper pipes: You can, but that malleable copper tubing is superior to any braided (SS over rubber) line and it's pre-bent for your application. You should be able to find new valves that will accept the compression ferrule on the end of those copper lines. You can, of course, replace them with the type of valve that accepts a braided hose if you want, it's all standard stuff in the plumbing section.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 07:29 |
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Elviscat posted:You can, but that malleable copper tubing is superior to any braided (SS over rubber) line and it's pre-bent for your application. Ah, thanks, good to know! I'll keep them then. Is there any reason why they're not more popular? Cost and convenience, I'm guessing?
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 08:30 |
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floWenoL posted:Ah, thanks, good to know! I'll keep them then. Is there any reason why they're not more popular? Cost and convenience, I'm guessing? Yeah, bending Cu is a PITA, if you mess it up it leaks, it's more expensive is pretty much the exhaustive list
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 08:47 |
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We moved into a house where the owner took the bathroom mirror (it had been made for them by a loved one), leaving this: This is the back of the mirror I bought to put in: Am I correct that I'll need to buy a ~24" French Cleat in order to mount this thing?
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 13:48 |
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Professor Shark posted:We moved into a house where the owner took the bathroom mirror (it had been made for them by a loved one), leaving this: Not certain but that doesn’t look like a French cleat to me, it looks like those eyes hang on anchors and screws Not relevant but how are those light bulb color temps not driving you up the wall?
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 18:38 |
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floWenoL posted:That's not a plate, that's a sharp bend in the drain pipe itself (AFAICT). I'm guessing it's a fairly old pipe, which is why the texture is so rough and the color is so dark. I've verified that it's not raw sewage. :P The picture makes it look extremely close to the surface, like its about to overflow.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 18:46 |
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life is killing me posted:Not certain but that doesn’t look like a French cleat to me, it looks like those eyes hang on anchors and screws I thought that given the position of the holes that I'd have to use a French Cleat to get the mirror into a proper position... I'm still leaning towards it I haven't gotten around to changing the bulbs yet- it's bad, I think that the owners just stuck whatever bulb they had in there before they left
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 20:27 |
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Hey, we need to paint over an ugly darker beige colour in our entire home quickly. Are there any recommended brands of primer you guys can think of?
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 23:03 |
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redbrouw posted:Hey, we need to paint over an ugly darker beige colour in our entire home quickly. Are there any recommended brands of primer you guys can think of? What color is your new topcoat going to be? My opinion is that priming previously painted interior walls is unnecessary* unless you're going to or from something really extreme like a really dark or bright red, blue, orange, etc. If you prime, best case you're painting the wall twice. One prime coat and one topcoat. If you need two coats of topcoat now you're painting the wall three times. If you use a high quality paint and you're not changing to a crazy color, then most likely you'll easily cover the existing ugly beige with two coats of paint and no primer. *Not including scenarios such as priming to block stains, seal new texture or drywall, or any number of other reasons.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 23:17 |
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Killz 2 works well if you don't want to have to think about it. Residue from stickers, stains, grease, oil based or latex, it'll prep the wall fine over any of that. Not the cheapest option though.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 23:18 |
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If you NEED primer Kilz is it. Full stop. That poo poo will stick to anything.
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# ? Feb 10, 2021 23:49 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 13:20 |
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Final Blog Entry posted:What color is your new topcoat going to be? My opinion is that priming previously painted interior walls is unnecessary* unless you're going to or from something really extreme like a really dark or bright red, blue, orange, etc. If you prime, best case you're painting the wall twice. One prime coat and one topcoat. If you need two coats of topcoat now you're painting the wall three times. If you use a high quality paint and you're not changing to a crazy color, then most likely you'll easily cover the existing ugly beige with two coats of paint and no primer. I think we're going to end up on something like very light grey with dark grey accent walls, but we don't know. My partner just hates the colour it is right now and doesn't want to rush into anything (especially since a lot of the paint places are closed right now.)
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# ? Feb 11, 2021 00:14 |