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redbrouw posted:I think we're going to end up on something like very light grey with dark grey accent walls, but we don't know. My partner just hates the colour it is right now and doesn't want to rush into anything (especially since a lot of the paint places are closed right now.) The big box stores are open and are fine for paint, unless you prefer to support smaller businesses.
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Feb 11, 2021 05:32
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Final Blog Entry posted:My opinion is that priming previously painted interior walls is unnecessary* unless you're going to or from something really extreme like a really dark or bright red, blue, orange, etc. This is really dependent on the paint you use. If you go to a big box there's often 3 or 4 different tiers of each paint brand. If you buy the cheap ones you're going to be putting a lot of coats on if you haven't primed and your new color isn't darker than the old one. The actual solution there is probably not to be cheap buying the paint rather than priming in most cases, though.
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Feb 11, 2021 18:20
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Honestly, if you need to paint urgently I would highly recommend finding a Benjamin Moore retailer near you. They have a massive selection of colors and finishes and the regal select, although expensive, is really thick, covers extremely well, and looks nearly-professional even if you’ve never painted yourself before.
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Feb 11, 2021 18:23
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Wallet posted:This is really dependent on the paint you use. If you go to a big box there's often 3 or 4 different tiers of each paint brand. If you buy the cheap ones you're going to be putting a lot of coats on if you haven't primed and your new color isn't darker than the old one. The actual solution there is probably not to be cheap buying the paint rather than priming in most cases, though. Absolutely and I should have put more emphasis on the "high quality" part of my post. Spending an extra $10 or more per gallon to jump up in quality levels will be worth it every time in saved time, aggravation, and amount of paint used.
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Feb 11, 2021 18:38
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FogHelmut posted:The picture makes it look extremely close to the surface, like its about to overflow. Yeah, the first time I saw it I thought the same thing, that it was the top of some standing water or something. But no, it's just pipe -- this image made it clear for me:  .
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Feb 12, 2021 02:01
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Our 1968 house in Oregon came with a plug in the garage clearly labeled "Generator" and a switch to flip, but no other documentation about how it's setup or what it can handle. I'm keen to get something to help heat the house and run the router in the event of a 3-7 day power outage, which might happen once every 5-10 years. We get shorter outages of a few hours to overnight every other year. I don't mind manual failover. 1. Do I need to get an electrician to inspect it, or can I go right into shopping for generators and testing it out? 2. What should I look for in the sub $3k range?
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Feb 12, 2021 02:28
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porkface posted:Our 1968 house in Oregon came with a plug in the garage clearly labeled "Generator" and a switch to flip, but no other documentation about how it's setup or what it can handle. Take a picture. If it's not a normal household plug like what is in your bedroom ( | | or | |- prongs) look closely at the face of it, embossed into it is likely something like "NEMA 6-30R" or whatever. Read that off. Take a picture of the switch, take a picture of your electrical panel with the door open and look for a breaker labeled "generator" or something. From there we will probably need to take the cover off if it's non-obvious what's going on.
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Feb 12, 2021 02:51
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Okay, product rec time. What's the heaviest-duty tension rod without an offset that anyone here can recommend? I'm sick of fighting to get my apartment's maintenance crew to actually fix my sliding glass door insulation, I'm ready to just put up thermal curtains (plastic wrapping it is a temporary solution but I'm pretty sure this will be coming back to haunt me in the summer when I need to be able to open it too). Most of the tension rods I've found in person have either had an offset from the bracket to the rod or been flimsy plastic junk that will break down immediately trying to hold a heavier curtain. The sliding glass door has a very bulky vertical blind assembly mounted on it that blocks an offset rod even when it's fully open, so those are untenable. Corollary: any advice for filling a gap that's adjacent to and possibly under carpet in a recess, short of "cut some foam insulation to size, stuff it in there, and pray"? Same with a crack on wood molding that I don't really want to damage... Hate going from an apartment so well insulated the interior temperatures still crossed 80 F with A/C running to one so poorly insulated there's a noticeable 3-4 degree drop over the span of about 8 feet (that apparently doesn't exist to our maintenance crew despite pointing to where it's visible).
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Feb 12, 2021 06:46
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You can screw in a regular curtain rod. Regular wear and tear and all that. Whatever Lowes had for cheap holds up my blackout curtains in my office against a sliding glass door. It's always the opposite temperature behind them than the room. Take down the verticals. gently caress em.
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Feb 12, 2021 07:09
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Adjustable-tension shower curtain rods should work. Mine's holding two curtains & all of the hardware and it has never come down.
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Feb 12, 2021 07:11
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I need a new pair of work boots. No steel toe necessary, and preferably 4.5-6" ish height. Recommendations? I'm looking at Redwing or Danner right now. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 15:05
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AFewBricksShy posted:I need a new pair of work boots. No steel toe necessary, and preferably 4.5-6" ish height. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3522228 has your answers. Beware the rabbit hole, those people really like boots.
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Feb 12, 2021 15:36
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I imagine that asking in this thread they're for work, not for fashion. What type of work? Indoor? Outdoor? Ladders? Wet? Dry? The guy from the Rose Anvil youtube channel put Redback boots as the most comfortable. I mean if you want to go down a hole of an expert cobbler cutting boots in half and describing how they're made and ranking them on quality, that's the place. edit- don't get "heritage" boots unless you're a fashion weirdo. They're horribly uncomfortable compared to modern materials, even after break-in. My brother works for Red Wing and says no one who actually works for a living buys those. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 15:49
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FogHelmut posted:I imagine that asking in this thread they're for work, not for fashion. I'm mainly an office shlub, but need work boots if I go to a job site. So something comfortable that can get dirty. I don't need steel toe and I'm not doing any ladder work. I'm looking at the Danner Springfields (hiking boot looking work boot) and redwing dynaforce or classic supersole. I'm looking for something that will be comfortable and last a long time. Otherwise I'd just buy another pair of timberlands, which the toe is currently falling off of after only a couple of years. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 16:02
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The people at the job site will hate you more if you're an office schlub with nicer boots than them. According to my brother: Top selling at Redwing are the 4420 Logger boots because short insecure dudes. Most comfortable are going to be any of the Supersole 2.0 If you're just going to the job site once a month or whatever, get what you think looks cool and are comfortable.
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Feb 12, 2021 16:33
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FogHelmut posted:The people at the job site will hate you more if you're an office schlub with nicer boots than them. Can confirm this is the case in manufacturing too, having both been on the floor and in the office. Get nice boots anyway. Don't be like me with hosed feet. e: for one, today I learned Awful automatically saves comments but not edits, not retyping that whole thing. unfortunately means I also have to edit multiple times to copy multiple things because Android insta kills the app. for two, meant to come back to this. H110Hawk posted:You can screw in a regular curtain rod. Regular wear and tear and all that. Whatever Lowes had for cheap holds up my blackout curtains in my office against a sliding glass door. It's always the opposite temperature behind them than the room. Good idea that requires taking down the original brackets in a very visible way, and I will immediately be hosed by the property manager if maintenance sees it - with how lovely my "furnace" is that's a very likely scenario. Going to have to try and fit something inside/underneath. Took some pictures this morning since it was light out. About 2" clearance, 72" total span. Shouldn't be too hard to find quality there, I imagine   yes my chair looks stupid SkyeAuroline fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Feb 12, 2021 |
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Feb 12, 2021 16:34
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Mega confirm. Carolina's are nice but we have to have steel/composite toe. Spring for composite toe, it'll pay off over time.
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Feb 12, 2021 16:46
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I have a pair of Blundstones which are fine multipurpose light duty. You can usually find them in the $130 to $200 range. Price varies on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y0BBG8/
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Feb 12, 2021 17:01
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm mainly an office shlub, but need work boots if I go to a job site. I really like my red wings 2406 and 2 pairs have lasted me a decade. https://www.redwingshoes.com/work/mens/boots/SuperSole-2.0-02406.html?cgid=mens-work-boots Both pairs still exist-the first pair has been resoled twice and now they’re my painting boots. I think there is a soft toe version too. I think they look decent-just kind of a plain work boot that doesn’t stand out and looks okay for office work too. They’re the most comfortable shoes I own, but more fitted insoles definitely help. I don’t really like the lighter leather of timberlands and something about Danners have always looked goofy to me, but that’s entirely personal.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:33
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If you’re buying work boots then do yourself a favor and get a pair with a hard toe cap. You might not be required to have it but you would be surprised at how much peace of mind comes from wearing steel toes. Plus, you might need them in the future and this saves you another purchase, which would certainly be more expensive than getting one good pair of steel toes now. I wore mine the last time I moved, it’s great being able to rest furniture etc on your toe cap while you’re getting a handle on the item.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:36
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm mainly an office shlub, but need work boots if I go to a job site. Those days are long gone. gently caress paying $200 for a pair of boots. I go to walmart and buy the boot one up from the cheapest---they never cost more than $50 and most the time are right around $35. I care more about the sole of the boot than anything else--will it clump up with mud/hold rocks/etc... (But if I'm working inside I have switched from boots to steel toed clogs.) I've got three pairs of WalMart boots--a clean pair, a truck pair, and a work pair. They are all between three to five years old--so holding up pretty good for costing less thant one pair of Timberlands that never would have made it three years--especially with daily use.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:42
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Lawnie posted:If you’re buying work boots then do yourself a favor and get a pair with a hard toe cap. You might not be required to have it but you would be surprised at how much peace of mind comes from wearing steel toes. Plus, you might need them in the future and this saves you another purchase, which would certainly be more expensive than getting one good pair of steel toes now. Agreed. Safety toes don't add as much weight as they used to, and I've never encountered a situation where it was a disadvantage to have them.
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Feb 12, 2021 17:54
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Agreed. Safety toes don't add as much weight as they used to, and I've never encountered a situation where it was a disadvantage to have them. I had a pair of steel toe docs about 10 years ago and the toe ended up being super uncomfortable (basically I could feel it pressing against the side of my toe when wearing them). I'll try on redwing's steel toes but I'm not treating it like a must have.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:03
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AFewBricksShy posted:I had a pair of steel toe docs about 10 years ago and the toe ended up being super uncomfortable (basically I could feel it pressing against the side of my toe when wearing them). That’s an issue with 1 pair of steel toes you tried on, not steel toes in general. Red wing offers a huge variety of sizes and widths. Mine are extremely comfortable, as comfortable as my LL Bean boots that I wear casually.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:14
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AFewBricksShy posted:I had a pair of steel toe docs about 10 years ago and the toe ended up being super uncomfortable (basically I could feel it pressing against the side of my toe when wearing them). They didn't fit properly then. I have wide feet and wear steel toes every day and just get boots that are a haalf or one size bigger. Stock insoles suck too. Spring for a good set.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:20
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I wanted to follow-up on my post a few pages ago about buying that floor lamp from an EU site, where you guys pointed out the EU and US model are basically the same (the product sheet mentioned accepting 100-240V), you just put on a different plug. I did email them and they said "We as an EU based supplier can only acquire CE certified items. This fixture is UL listed, however the power supply is a switched one and should work on 110v. Normally the different socket plates should be included in the box." (I think they meant "not UL listed") I'm just wondering what a "switched" power supply is? Is that one that can accept a range of different voltages?
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Feb 12, 2021 18:26
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I have a pair of Timberland Pro steel toes, and the boots are fine, but the steel toe box is not as wide as I would like, and the treads are mud magnets. And they weigh about 50lbs each.
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Feb 12, 2021 18:45
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actionjackson posted:I wanted to follow-up on my post a few pages ago about buying that floor lamp from an EU site, where you guys pointed out the EU and US model are basically the same (the product sheet mentioned accepting 100-240V), you just put on a different plug. I did email them and they said Kind of, if you don't want to read all that they're referring to it being a "switch mode power supply" which uses transistors (the eponymous switches) to buck/boost voltage, they're in about anything that you plug in a wall and get different voltage out of nowadays, as a side benefit they're absurdly easy to make work on a wide array of input voltages. This is as opposed to an old style transformer and bridge rectifier power supply, that would require moveable taps to work on multiple voltages, and generally wouldn't work for the US if they came with an EU light.
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Feb 12, 2021 21:07
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Got the red wing 2406 supersole with the steel toe. Thanks for all the input
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Feb 12, 2021 22:46
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Yeah I found even the cheap red wings my work bought are comfortable, but not anything too special. They sell like they'll last for a while though.
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Feb 12, 2021 22:54
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I have Red Wing classic/blacksmiths which were around $300 CAD and have lasted 5 years and I think will last another 10 if I keep cleaning them once a year. Great boot.
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Feb 13, 2021 02:13
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SkyeAuroline posted:Good idea that requires taking down the original brackets in a very visible way, and I will immediately be hosed by the property manager if maintenance sees it - with how lovely my "furnace" is that's a very likely scenario. Going to have to try and fit something inside/underneath. Took some pictures this morning since it was light out. About 2" clearance, 72" total span. Shouldn't be too hard to find quality there, I imagine Your chair looks great. They can only ding you when you move out or for things you do to space you aren't renting. They can raise a fuss all they want. If you put them back when you leave, undamaged, that's it - no charge. If you drill a couple holes to put up curtain rods or whatever, that's "normal wear and tear" and will not be dinged, but also takes like 30 minutes to patch when you leave. But you're well within the realm of "just buy something from Lowes Depot and see if it works. If it falls down you just have to go pick it up and return it. I mean hell you could literally nail a curtain to the wall there and other than it being super frat housey it wouldn't be a thing they could ding you for so long as it didn't prevent egress (nail across the top only.)
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Feb 13, 2021 03:54
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H110Hawk posted:Your chair looks great. Drilling something in that'll be behind the blinds might be the way I go. Now if only I could figure out this godforsaken heater and why it blows cold air only at night, that would be something off my plate...
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Feb 13, 2021 05:01
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Final Blog Entry posted:Absolutely and I should have put more emphasis on the "high quality" part of my post. Spending an extra $10 or more per gallon to jump up in quality levels will be worth it every time in saved time, aggravation, and amount of paint used. I was shocked at how much better the Benjmain Moore Regal Select was then the stuff I was getting from the Lowes. I was able to cover the entire room in two coats with a single gallon. As a bonus, I didn't have to wait around for 30 minutes for someone at Lowes to show up at the paint desk. I also got to witness a couple talking to an employee there about things like "what's the most popular shade of grey", and "can we return this if we don't like the color". I fully understand why the employee looked pissed off when I showed up.
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Feb 14, 2021 20:20
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I was doing laundry today and noticed the two pipes that are exhaust from my furnace aren't sealed at all. What would be best to seal them?
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Feb 14, 2021 21:06
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I was doing laundry today and noticed the two pipes that are exhaust from my furnace aren't sealed at all. What would be best to seal them? Caulk. If the gap is too big, buy 'backer rod' to fill first. It's just flexible foam used to create a surface for the caulk to adhere to.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:14
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Tezer posted:Caulk. If the gap is too big, buy 'backer rod' to fill first. It's just flexible foam used to create a surface for the caulk to adhere to. Just regular caulk? Nothing special?
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Feb 14, 2021 21:20
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Looking for opinions on how to finish a ceiling in a portion of a room of our house. We knocked down the popcorn ceilings when we moved in. The ceiling in this portion of the room was extra sealed or super durable or something, and it wouldn't just fall apart with some water like they normally do. As a result it is gouged up and uneven beyond my ability to mud and sand (at least in a reasonable timeframe). Also it's in kind of a unique spot that seems worth doing something different than the rest of the house. We're planning to sell as soon as we're done remodeling in a few years, so it just has to not detract from the space. It is above the living/family room portion of a long, narrow room that is the kitchen, dining room, and living/family room.   My first thought was some kind of tongue and groove ceiling, but I'm not sure how to address this point where the flat and angle ceilings come together: 
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Feb 14, 2021 21:25
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Just regular caulk? Nothing special? The location is protected from exterior conditions and isn't visible (doesn't need to be painted) so the vast majority of caulks will work. Like, if you have a partial tube of something kicking around you can probably use it. Polyurethane caulk is the typical recommendation for "construction" caulking, but the majority of caulks in the average hardware store will be fine. I'm sure there is at least one that won't though, so read the label to make sure you haven't picked up something weird.
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Feb 14, 2021 21:40
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Tezer posted:The location is protected from exterior conditions and isn't visible (doesn't need to be painted) so the vast majority of caulks will work. Like, if you have a partial tube of something kicking around you can probably use it. Awesome, thanks!
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Feb 14, 2021 21:43
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