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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is the factory edge of plywood straight enough? Yes, the factory edge will likely be straight enough. I made a few different lengths of this zero-clearance guide out of mdf and I'm still happy with the straightness a year+ later.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:34
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It's almost a rite of passage to build something/do some home improvement, only to find out that nothing in your house is square, flat, or level, and have to do a bunch of extra work to account for all that.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:49
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Just Winging It posted:It's almost a rite of passage to build something/do some home improvement, only to find out that nothing in your house is square, flat, or level, and have to do a bunch of extra work to account for all that. See you found out what happened to my bookcases. Also I know it's Harbor Freight but they do have 6 ft drywall levels for pretty cheap and it's been straight enough for most of my things.
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Mar 8, 2021 17:50
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Since covid, I've been getting into the Tally Ho restoration and the Acorn to Arabella project on Youtube. I like sailing, but I have no interest in putting the time and money into a wooden boat. However, the process of framing and planking a boat seems really cool, and I've been thinking about whether it'd be possible to use the same techniques on a teardrop camper. What I'm wondering is whether wood movement is going to end up cause endless grief from leaks. The traditional method is carvel planking, with each plank attached to the frame and the gaps filled with cotton and caulk. Boats rely on being in contact with water to swell the wood and cotton, creating a more watertight seal. In my mind, I can compensate for this a bit with tighter gaps, but I'm unsure of how I can maintain the watertightness in the face of temperature and humidity changes that can accompany a long camping trip. Any thoughts on a caulking product that handles seasonal wood movement? I also really like the look of strip planking, where thin planks (around 1/2") are edge-glued together and then the whole boat is fiberglassed inside and out. This seems like it'd be worse for wood movement, since the whole thing would be trying to contract or expand along multiple directions. If the planks are thin enough, is it possible that the strength of the glue and fiberglass would be enough to prevent splits from appearing?
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Mar 8, 2021 18:42
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Baronash posted:Since covid, I've been getting into the Tally Ho restoration and the Acorn to Arabella project on Youtube. I like sailing, but I have no interest in putting the time and money into a wooden boat. However, the process of framing and planking a boat seems really cool, and I've been thinking about whether it'd be possible to use the same techniques on a teardrop camper. What I'm wondering is whether wood movement is going to end up cause endless grief from leaks. I am working on rebuilding parts for a boat right now and it's one of those things where, as a person who loves wood, just don't build a boat out of wood! It's a terribly material to build boats out of. It's heavy and it rots and it move and cracks and degrades in UV light. Build an aluminum boat or a fiberglass boat. They're just like....way better materials for small boats to be made of. Same with the outside of your house. gently caress wooden siding and trim-stick some cement board and PVC up there. The reason we build houses out of wood is because it's cheap, not because it's the best/strongest/most durable whatever. That being said, wood boats are cool and rad and a wooden camper would be too.
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Mar 8, 2021 19:09
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Just bought a pile of tools from an old dude who is cleaning out his garage. Highlights include a "Rapier 500" no5 corrugated jack plane, a couple of extra plane irons, a heap of chisels which need some restoration (and which I'm going to give to a low-income buddy of mine once I've cleaned them up), and a Stanley 42x saw set. He was happy, I'm happy, and everyone is happy.
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Mar 8, 2021 20:00
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Just Winging It posted:It's almost a rite of passage to build something/do some home improvement, only to find out that nothing in your house is square, flat, or level, and have to do a bunch of extra work to account for all that. You better not think that corner is 90 degrees either, because it isn't! And it will be a different angle at the bottom to the top too!
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Mar 8, 2021 21:03
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CommonShore posted:When I was growing up saber saw referred to a reciprocating saw. People stopped using that term when they started calling them sawzall. Huh. When I was growing up, the saber saw was something of a hybrid jigsaw with a longer blade. There's still some floating around. Milwaukee put out the first reciprocating saw brand-name sawzall, or at least it was the only maker I saw for a long time. serious gaylord posted:You better not think that corner is 90 degrees either, because it isn't! And it will be a different angle at the bottom to the top too! Lemme tellsya, when I was a cabinet & interior trim guy, we used to find and bow down to the fastidious frame carpenters who knew how to use a level. And strongly recommend them to contractors.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:Huh. When I was growing up, the saber saw was something of a hybrid jigsaw with a longer blade. There's still some floating around. Milwaukee put out the first reciprocating saw brand-name sawzall, or at least it was the only maker I saw for a long time. If you don't plan for 100mm of trim tolerance all around your built ins you haven't lived.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:26
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When I was making my built in shelves there was as much as a 3/4" dip concavity in the wall between floor and ceiling. I ended up ignoring the back wall entirely and anchoring the uprights into the floor and ceiling joists.
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Mar 8, 2021 23:29
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IMO just build your thing so structurally sturdy and powerful that when you screw it to the studs, your thing pulls the studs to true and squares up your wall for you.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:11
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I'm building some cabinets for our bathroom that included shelves that butted up to the wall in a corner. Even though they were only about a foot apart, each had to be custom cut to fit the contour of the wall and corner at that particular point. Keeping straight which one had to go where and in what orientation was a pain.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:17
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Deteriorata posted:I'm building some cabinets for our bathroom that included shelves that butted up to the wall in a corner. Even though they were only about a foot apart, each had to be custom cut to fit the contour of the wall and corner at that particular point. this is my bathroom right now, except the same guys trying to build the shelves (and doing an...acceptable job, kind of) were the ones who put in the framing and the drywall. it did not help.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:21
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When I did a wall of bookshelves, I did each vertical unit separately to account for the wall and floor variations and hid it with the face frame.
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Mar 9, 2021 00:23
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Just Winging It posted:It's almost a rite of passage to build something/do some home improvement, only to find out that nothing in your house is square, flat, or level, and have to do a bunch of extra work to account for all that. Drywalling our basement in the house I grew up in taught us that there was a 3" difference between the floor and ceiling in one direction and 2" in the other. Upstairs literally none of the rooms were actually square with a 1 to 2" difference on various walls. One of the garage walls also wasn't tied into the foundation. When I was younger I was backing the car out for my mom and clipped it with the mirror (which didn't break) and it slid off a bit. Thankfully we were able to push it back on and my dad tied it in with plates and bolts. The house was actually built, remodeled, and lived in by a big house builder in our area. I'll never buy one of his houses of I can avoid it.
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Mar 9, 2021 01:01
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Hi guys. I've just been going through the last 80-100 pages of this thread to make sure my question wasn't already covered, and as far as I can see it wasn't. I'm building a large box for my turntables/mixer. The current solution is two long and two short Ikea shelves screwed together sitting on a pair of plastic sawhorses. It actually remarkably strong and stable. But it looks like boiled rear end. I've been thinking about this upgrade for the last year. The first part of this is going to be a box with a flip-top. Like this:  Dimensions are 1200mm*560mm (48"*22"-ish) This isn't entirely accurate, because I haven't used Blender in a while and a bunch of stuff eludes me right now. But the joins are as planned so it's enough to explain. I have given my cut list to the local timber guys so they can get me all the pieces cut to size from 15mm (5/8?) Birch ply. With any luck, the cutting will be accurate because I have neither the room not tools to do much about it if it's not. My question is what is the best way to do these butt joins? I don't currently have a pocket hole jig, but can get one if that is considered the most appropriate solution. My other options are to use a pilot countersink bit and screw throught the faces into the end grain or put blocks inside the corners and screw into those instead. All options involve wood glue. Aesthetics are not a major issue, and I don't have a problem with countersunk screws in the front of the unit. I don't really want pocket holes in the front face if possible. Obviously I want it to have right angles, but beyond that I'm not too picky. Other irrelevant details - I'm going to use gas springs to hold the lid up and have a piano hinge along the back. And it's going to sit on the sawhorses for now. So my main questions are: Will pilot-drilled 4mm/#8 screws through the faces into the 15mm end grain be suitable? And will a 900mm/3ft piano hinge along the back be a good solution for the lid, or should I go for something beefier? Is there anything else I should be taking into account that my lack of experience is shielding me from? So far I haven't made anything that wouldn't fit in a pocket, so this is a big step up.
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Mar 9, 2021 01:09
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Screwing straight into the "end grain" of good plywood like baltic birch, plus glue, will probably work fine. Maybe if this box will have to take a lot of abuse you could consider a different joinery method, but even then I suspect it'd be fine. If you wanted to beef it up, one option would be to add small blocks inside each corner: that gives you something to screw into from the face of each plank, if you offset screws between sides and back/front. This does use some of the internal volume, though. Another option is to add corner/angle brackets, interior or exterior. These also alter the look and may not suit, depends on your needs. But I think none of that is likely necessary. A piano hinge is probably overkill, e.g. it'll work great. The main thing that throws me with that design is that the "lid" looks like it'll be heavier than the base, so empty it'd want to tip over backwards when open; but if the contents are plenty heavy they'll probably hold it in place. It still will look a bit unbalanced visually, if those record players are representative of your actual equipment? Maybe the lid is extra-tall to accommodate the record player arms, which you probably can't do anything about. Last thing: will the lid be in your way visually? Like, it'll hide you while you're rockin' out DJing? You could always just make the lid fully removable instead of on a hinge, and set it aside when not in use.
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Mar 9, 2021 02:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'm not suuuuuper familiar with that kind of boat work, but I think carvel planking would be a nightmare. You could probably caulk it so it didn't leak, but then you have nasty caulking all over your pretty wood thing. Stripping it together is probably better, and my understanding of the fiberglass/epoxy process is that you encapsulate the wood completely on all 6 sides so water can't go in or out which really helps with wood movement/stability. Weight is probably a consideration with a camper too. I think 3/8" (might could even get away with 1/4"?) ply fiberglassed inside and out makes a ridgid enough construction. West system has some great free publications: https://www.westsystem.com/instruction-manuals/ You are basically building an upside down boat so some of that should be relevant. I'll give the links a look, and I'm deciding between a couple books on strip planking to better understanding the technique.
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Mar 9, 2021 02:56
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Leperflesh posted:Screwing straight into the "end grain" of good plywood like baltic birch, plus glue, will probably work fine. Maybe if this box will have to take a lot of abuse you could consider a different joinery method, but even then I suspect it'd be fine. Thanks for the tips. I'm considering the blocks, as I do have enough space in there. The lid looks heavier than the base but that's only because I didn't do it exactly to spec in Blender. The shorter edge panels are all on the lid except for the front one. The overall height is because I have a small controller unit that sits above the mixer and eventually I will be attaching a touchscreen monitor to the inside of the lid. And while it would get in my way visually, it's going to be up against the wall and streaming will be via top-down and side cameras. If I ever get the chance to have it face into a room I'll build something nicer. And I'll make legs for it. I'll report back during/after the build. frankenbeans fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 09:21
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Baronash posted:Since covid, I've been getting into the Tally Ho restoration and the Acorn to Arabella project on Youtube. I like sailing, but I have no interest in putting the time and money into a wooden boat. However, the process of framing and planking a boat seems really cool, and I've been thinking about whether it'd be possible to use the same techniques on a teardrop camper. What I'm wondering is whether wood movement is going to end up cause endless grief from leaks. In short there isn't a single method of planking that would get you a watertight Teardrop. A good and moderately popular method if you want planking look is strip planking with fibreglass over the top. Build it as a single piece and then bolt it onto the trailer frame. It'll do a lot to keep the trailer rigid rather than the other way around.
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Mar 9, 2021 13:42
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Mar 9, 2021 14:52
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I would like to recieve your newsletter
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Mar 9, 2021 16:19
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My last big project I meticulously followed pre-existing plans. Now I'm trying to design something and I don't know how anyone does this. I'm going to try to make a mid-century modern style sideboard/console for our turntable and records. It'll have a lower shelf for the records with a vertical partition, and an upper, shorter shelf with three parts—a cubby for the receiver in the middle, and a drawer on each side. I finally decided how I wanted to shape/join the carcass and then realized I needed to determine how I'd join partitions, shelves, and the back. Then, what do I want to do for the base? What about the back? I don't really want to use plywood so that means hardwood paneling. How do I create those panels and join them? Then from that, figure out how much material I need for each part. I've also never done drawers before, so I gotta figure those out. Being me, I'm also being likely way overambitious. I'm going to try to make this in maple using mitered dovetails for the carcass. I can already see myself completely ruining a couple hundred dollars worth of wood. But I know I want to go with the mid-century modern look to match the record player itself, and I just find the 90-degree rabbets you see on a lot of comparable pieces really uninteresting. z0331 fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 19:11
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Work from mass to detail, and bit by bit. Cut parts to fit what you’ve done already, don’t try to make every part and then assemble it and hope they fit. Don’t worry about the doors or drawers or whatever yet-get the carcase put together and then see how big the openings are etc etc. MCM furniture is really quite difficult to make at home compared to older styles. Having some molding or trim to hide behind helps a ton, and and many of the ‘classic’ mid century designs were always intended to be done in large production runs in factories where it’s easy to set up fixtures to make curved panels or cut big perfect miters or whatever.
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Mar 9, 2021 19:20
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Also, remember that you learn to make nice things by making lots of crappy things first. Practice your joinery on some scrap wood before you commit to expensive stuff. It's not just technique, it helps you identify the set-up issues and details that you didn't realize existed, let alone pay attention to.
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Mar 9, 2021 19:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Actually, one kind of interesting thing is that, in researching this (staring a lot of Google image results) and deciding how to go about it, I realized basically exactly this without having thought much about it before: the style being so minimal means it's really hard to do well without machines and, yeah, really hard to hide mistakes. I've done a couple tester mitered boxes and it is very difficult. But yeah, once I get started, I'll worry about the carcass first and see how it goes. My backup plan is to go with a more traditional style if things go south early on. I actually think trying to use mitered dovetails helps a little since it's not like I'm trying to make sure wider panels are perfectly matching. I only really have to worry about the angles on the edge.
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Mar 9, 2021 19:52
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If you're interested in MCM style and want to see what's possible, check out Chris Salamone at Four Eyes Furniture on youtube. Unfortunately he does use a domino extensively, but his designs are achievable with other means.
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Mar 9, 2021 20:13
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I think it would be a good idea to build it out of plywood first as a practice run. A lot less tears shed over ruining sheet or two of plywood over ruining some of your glued up panels. It is going to help you a lot with the process, you'll be working out a lot of kinks on the first one that will make your hardwood version go a lot smoother.
Rufio fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Mar 9, 2021 |
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Mar 9, 2021 20:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Work from mass to detail, and bit by bit. Cut parts to fit what you’ve done already, don’t try to make every part and then assemble it and hope they fit. Don’t worry about the doors or drawers or whatever yet-get the carcase put together and then see how big the openings are etc etc. A lot of it was also designed to be made with plywood and veneer on those big machine precision lines. I frequently need to remind the person in my house who likes to buy old furniture to watch out for crappy jobs/care/maintenance on the old MCM furniture. I do like how precise a lot of it can be, but the veneer/plywood stuff doesn’t hold up nearly as well as you’d want long term. One of those subtle shifts from furniture as heirloom to furniture as future landfill consumable. There are a lot of craftsmanship going into reversing some of that, but I’m sure most people can count the number of chairs and tables they had growing up versus the number of chairs that get thrown out after a couple years in a college dorm. tl:dr MCM cool, consumable level furniture not so cool.
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Mar 9, 2021 20:48
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I spent a couple of hours relearning Blender and finding out all my hdri images are gone, but I fixed up the dimensions and overall design. Excuse my wood texture, I don't have a ply texture. If I ever rebuild it as a fancy one with solid wood, it will actually look more like this. So now it's a good approximation of the planned final product give/take my skill at assembling it. Ignore the legs, they're not happening.  There will be LED lighting around the inside of the lid, but I'm not going to try to model/light that. I'm going to get the offcuts from the ply sheet, so I'll do some practice butt joints with/without interior blocks and see what works. And probably try some finishes, but I'll probably be back in here to ask about finishing. I hit the buy button on all the internal hardware except for the gas springs and trim materials, and now I'm getting nervous/excited.
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Mar 10, 2021 01:16
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serious gaylord posted:If you don't plan for 100mm of trim tolerance all around your built ins you haven't lived. Tbf, some of the dwellings around you have been standing twice as long as these United States or more. So it's understandable. I did a massive commercial display showcase (honduran mahogany) back when in a historical mansion museum that was built in the 1900's or so, so it was 80 years old at that time. 3rd floor had some dips and sags, yeah. Shims and the cabinets were all plywood backed with tall baseboard. I know I've got a few pics from then somewhere..
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Mar 10, 2021 03:03
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Neat article I saw recently about Bog Oak. Sounds like a pain in the butt and a labour of love at the same time. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/02/21/adamson-low-treasure-out-of-the-bog/ quote:Amazing grain and visual impact can be created from pretty poo poo trees. If you’re a little bit savvy and a little bit arty about how you apply yourself to using very defective trees, you can produce some very beautiful things.
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Mar 10, 2021 05:36
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Going to dip my toes into timber framing this spring/summer with a pergola and I'm super excited! Took a plan from Timber Frame HQ and translated it to SketchUp to fit my actual situation. Plan is to do some ornate wood carving on the posts and ends of the beams and rafters. Not something I've done before so I'll start with the one beam that nobody will look at first  Eventually going to have some retractable cloth or canvas coverings between the rafters for the long rainy season here in Portland, but bridges get crossed when they're gotten to.It's only 12' x 15', so not too big. I figure a pergola is a good intro to timber framing since there's no further steps, it's just a frame. The knee braces in the design have a curve on the bottom but I think I'll skip that, don't care for the look plus not doing it means less work.
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Mar 10, 2021 06:01
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Hey timber framing reminds me - I'm planning to make some raised beds for a friend's garden using half lap joints in the corner but we're using 2x8s so my circular saw only has enough cut depth if I work from the end grain which idk feels sketchy? I'm struggling to come up with a decent plan for cutting adequate half laps. Hand cutting them sounds just exhausting, jigsaw sounds like a good comedy option, circ saw and chisel seems like the standard approach but I'm weirded out at the idea of using the saw tangent to the ground I guess. Is this safe??
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Mar 10, 2021 06:25
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epswing posted:Neat article I saw recently about Bog Oak. Sounds like a pain in the butt and a labour of love at the same time. This is cool as hell. Can't imagine what these trees must've looked like 5000 years ago
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Mar 10, 2021 06:26
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epswing posted:Neat article I saw recently about Bog Oak. Sounds like a pain in the butt and a labour of love at the same time. quote:Tell me you’re not drooling as you look at this material. ok maybe a little
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Mar 10, 2021 06:32
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epswing posted:Neat article I saw recently about Bog Oak. Sounds like a pain in the butt and a labour of love at the same time. Bog oak is often harvested in the baltic sea because ship worm cannot surive in the brackish water so old ships are preserved for a very long time.
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Mar 10, 2021 07:42
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Bloody posted:Hey timber framing reminds me - I'm planning to make some raised beds for a friend's garden using half lap joints in the corner but we're using 2x8s so my circular saw only has enough cut depth if I work from the end grain which idk feels sketchy? I'm struggling to come up with a decent plan for cutting adequate half laps. Hand cutting them sounds just exhausting, jigsaw sounds like a good comedy option, circ saw and chisel seems like the standard approach but I'm weirded out at the idea of using the saw tangent to the ground I guess. Is this safe?? Why not set the depth of your circular saw to your half lap depth then run it across a few times to kerf cut the wood, then chisel out the remains. Unless I'm not understanding something here?
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Mar 10, 2021 13:42
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Rufio posted:Why not set the depth of your circular saw to your half lap depth then run it across a few times to kerf cut the wood, then chisel out the remains. Unless I'm not understanding something here? Yep, this is what I'd recommend. You can have a spare piece of 2x on the other side of the cut to support the saw, if you're feeling antsy.
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Mar 10, 2021 16:04
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His Divine Shadow posted:Bog oak is often harvested in the baltic sea because ship worm cannot surive in the brackish water so old ships are preserved for a very long time. Reminder if you're ever in Stockholm to visit the Vasa museum, which is all about a boat that sank in like 1528 and was dredged up in the 50s and restored.
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Mar 10, 2021 16:15
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