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Plastik posted:...Now he has a hole in the floor of what will be a closet and neither he nor I really know what to do with it. You are on the right track. Box it with toenailed 2x6, use joist ties if you want to get fancy. Then throw a piece of 3/4" plywood over it. On the other hand, if you can get another course of the block out, it would be a great hidey-hole. Put a firebox (one of those waterproof home safe boxes) in it. If you box it & plate is as-is, it would also be a great opportunity to leave a time capsule in that block.
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Mar 22, 2021 03:52
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Who do you call to do a full replacement window including the framing? All the window companies I talk to just want to do inserts but the window I need to replace will probably need to be reframed. A carpenter?
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Mar 22, 2021 04:07
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:There was one of these in my yard when I bought the house. I think it's going on about year 7 now, and it's completely falling apart. Not from the ground up, surprisingly. Just in general, these are just so cheaply made that they disintegrate. I think mine was from Lowes, but same thing I'm sure. Hoo boy, that is not a joke. They are for real about the recommended 120 lb weight limits. I'm about 100 lbs over and these boards are flexing and creaking under my weight. I can see how it might fall apart - this wood cracks really easily if you don't predrill everything. Anyway, went with a paver brick foundation-  And painted the bottom area that touches the brick with copper green. Still need to finish the roof 
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Mar 22, 2021 05:29
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Who do you call to do a full replacement window including the framing? All the window companies I talk to just want to do inserts but the window I need to replace will probably need to be reframed. A carpenter? Ya, you need a carpenter. A lot of carpenters eventually just become general contractors, so that might be a better search term. Like, I only know... four carpentry companies that aren't also general contractors. Your window vendor might be able to recommend one.
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Mar 22, 2021 05:32
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FogHelmut posted:Hoo boy, that is not a joke. They are for real about the recommended 120 lb weight limits. I'm about 100 lbs over and these boards are flexing and creaking under my weight. Oh wow, that looks super cool, I like your foundation solution too, that plus copper green should keep it together for a decent while.
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Mar 22, 2021 05:49
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PainterofCrap posted:If you box it & plate is as-is, it would also be a great opportunity to leave a time capsule in that block. As a kid I put a signed Pavel Bure rookie card into such a time capsule in a wall in my childhood home as my dad extended it or did some reno I don't remember. My parents then divorced, sold the house, and I'm sure it'll just be torn down one day and end up in a dump. I guess what I'm saying is don't put anything too worthwhile in there because you might not actually be able to pull it up and look at it down the road. OP just put 4 dolls covered in fake blood into the spaces in the cinderblocks and close it up. Best case scenario you gently caress with a contractor in 40 years that isn't even born yet.
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Mar 22, 2021 07:03
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I took my doors off of my Queens, NYC apartment's bedroom's closet because the shitheads building the closet made it so thin shirts and pants don't hang up. I had to readjust the rod so they don't tilt up at an angle against the wall. I'm getting sick of shirts and pants sticking out 2-3 inches from the closet so I was wondering if anyone can recommend something to not make it look so.... poor and lovely. And this poo poo is why NYC is emptying out. WFH is here to stay so people with money will laugh in your face at your overpriced hovel and leave, I could go on and on about how so many ancient lovely buildings need to be razed to the ground here, but I digress. CHEF!!! fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 07:15
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CHEF!!! posted:I took my doors off of my Queens, NYC apartment's bedroom's closet because the shitheads building the closet made it so thin shirts and pants don't hang up. I had to readjust the rod so they don't tilt up at an angle against the wall. I'm getting sick of shirts and pants sticking out 2-3 inches from the closet so I was wondering if anyone can recommend something to not make it look so.... poor and lovely. I'd think anything attached to the closet to put doors back on might be too permanent for an apartment. Maybe a free standing partition? There's a lot of styles. I hid a network rack behind one in an office and they don't seem to mind but your taste may vary compared to a code enforcement and zoning dude. https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=partition
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Mar 24, 2021 09:33
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CHEF!!! posted:I took my doors off of my Queens, NYC apartment's bedroom's closet because the shitheads building the closet made it so thin shirts and pants don't hang up. I had to readjust the rod so they don't tilt up at an angle against the wall. I'm getting sick of shirts and pants sticking out 2-3 inches from the closet so I was wondering if anyone can recommend something to not make it look so.... poor and lovely. My house was built in 1930 and had two closets that weren't quite a foot deep. Found evidence on the wall that the clothes were hung flat against the back wall using brackets attached to that wall. In other words, hung 90-degrees off of typical & racked in depth.
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Mar 24, 2021 15:42
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I'm in the process of waging war on cable clutter in my home office. I'm planning to mount my monitor on a gas arm and then I was thinking of running cables from the basement. So to do it right I need some kind of "cable gland" for the drywall I think. https://smile.amazon.com/Buyers-Point-Through-Theater-Systems/dp/B075343YSZ these look like they need to be mounted to an in-wall receptacle box? how do you get the wires into the junction box from inside the wall/etc? or do I just cut a hole and then drill the screws right into the drywall? or is there a version of these that don't need the receptacle box? I'd rather do this than an actual keystone plate, there's too many signal integrity problems with displayport/etc already. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 17:52
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Paul MaudDib posted:I'm in the process of waging war on cable clutter in my home office. I'm planning to mount my monitor on a gas arm and then I was thinking of running cables from the basement. So to do it right I need some kind of "cable gland" for the drywall I think. You want a low voltage bracket. Its basically just a frame that attaches to the drywall. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916 edit- They're also listed in the related items on your amazon link. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 18:06
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Specifically a box for "old work", it has little arms that fold out to hold it onto the drywall instead of being nailed into a stud. A small set of fish rods is probably the easiest way to feed the wire through the wall, I just ran ethernet from my ground floor up to the attic and dropped back down to the second floor with a 10' set and a fair amount of patience. Edit: what that guy said ^^^
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Mar 24, 2021 18:12
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FogHelmut posted:Hoo boy, that is not a joke. They are for real about the recommended 120 lb weight limits. I'm about 100 lbs over and these boards are flexing and creaking under my weight. In a few years your kids will forget about it and then it will become a public health hazard after a family of possums moves in and shits all over every inch of it if my experience is anything to go by. Looks good though!
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Mar 24, 2021 21:32
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Paul MaudDib posted:running cables from the basement. displayport/etc already. What? What is your run length here? What are you going to use to shoot this? Are you sure you don't want to run cat6a and do DP->Ethernet->DP? Please do this instead, and use keystones for your ethernet. Not these specifically, but you get the idea. https://www.cablestogo.com/category/displayport/displayport-extenders
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Mar 24, 2021 21:55
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H110Hawk posted:What? What is your run length here? What are you going to use to shoot this? Are you sure you don't want to run cat6a and do DP->Ethernet->DP? Please do this instead, and use keystones for your ethernet. not sure if gsync or adaptive sync would work through those, though. Also, it would be more stuff that I'd have to stick on the wall behind the monitor. and latency might not be the best. I think I can keep cable length to 2 meters, which is in-spec for displayport, I'll throw the PC on the top of a shelf or rack to get it close to the rafters. if I can't quite make it I'll use a displayport repeater, I've got one that works for DP 1.2 at least (tested it and it works with g-sync), or I can try an active cable, which I think I'm probably more likely to have success with than the ethernet adapter. my understanding is those are really meant more for industrial or signage type applications than gaming.
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Mar 24, 2021 22:43
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Paul MaudDib posted:not sure if gsync or adaptive sync would work through those, though. Also, it would be more stuff that I'd have to stick on the wall behind the monitor. and latency might not be the best. Yeah, 2 meters is much much shorter than I expected you to say. I was expecting you to throw out like 25'+, and while 25' should work, anything longer is going to get dicey. Enjoy your new cable anus.
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Mar 24, 2021 23:27
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah, 2 meters is much much shorter than I expected you to say. I was expecting you to throw out like 25'+, and while 25' should work, anything longer is going to get dicey. Enjoy your new cable anus. haha, it sure is going to look weird if I ever sell the house, but I'm not planning on it. just a cable anus (or a keystone plate) sitting in the middle of the loving wall. I'd have to patch it and repaint for sure if I ever wanted to reconfigure it. Fortunately there is basically only one good way to set up this room, so... edit: it really is a shame that HDMI 2.1 dumped the ability to have super long cables, because that was really the major distinguishing factor against displayport imo. Now it's 2 meters-ish just like DP - unless you go to an active cable (which also exist for displayport as well). Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 23:36
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Also, make sure the cables have the desired/required in-wall rating on them too.
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Mar 25, 2021 07:46
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Is it overkill to build a base cabinet by making a frame out of 2x3s and then nailing faceboards on top of it? It seems just using plywood/mdf sheets with some bracing is the standard method but I just can't imagine my skillset doing that and then one of my fatter friends jumping up to sit on the counter and the whole thing not collapsing.
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Mar 25, 2021 11:27
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I wanna turn this: Into this:  I was thinking of making the actual bookcases out of 3/4 plywood (extending them almost too the top and attaching trim against the ceiling), but I'm unsure about how to go about securing them, I was thinking of either just stacking them on the top shelf and using a french cleat system in the span above the opening or constructing a ladder of 2x2s covered in thin plywood sheating that spans the entire length of planned shelving (about 15 feet) that'd be screwed down to the exisiting bookcase, the wall behind it and the wall at the opposite end (both brick), and placing the plywood bookcases on top of that, using trim to hide th thoughts? other ideas?
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Mar 25, 2021 16:12
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Edit: Nevermind
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Mar 25, 2021 16:23
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Charles Ingalls posted:I wanna turn this: Lag bolt through the back of the shelf into a stud is the easiest solution. The bolt head is visible of course, but you're putting stuff on the shelves, presumably, so you can just put stuff in front of the bolt.
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Mar 25, 2021 17:09
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Charles Ingalls posted:other ideas? Ikea
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Mar 25, 2021 17:24
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FogHelmut posted:Ikea It'd be more expensive, less fun, look worse and there's probably not a unit they have that would fit. And all the Ikea shelves I've had have developed visible sag after a few years. Thanks for all the suggestions, any reason a french cleat system would be a bad idea? I have to build it out a little in any case due to the piece of trim on the wall behind it
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Mar 25, 2021 17:33
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My main thought with French cleats is that you need some clearance above the shelf in order to be able to put it over the lip of the cleat. That means you can't build the shelf all the way up to the ceiling. As long as you're fine with that, I don't see a problem with using cleats here.
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Mar 25, 2021 18:13
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I would think OP would rather have taller shelves and lag bolts that aren't even visible, the French cleat is a cool method but when it limits the size of the thing you're building that kinda needs to be taken into consideration.
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Mar 25, 2021 18:46
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Charles Ingalls posted:I wanna turn this: please give me your kitchen (btw are those nelson bubble lamps)? unrelated - when hiring someone to replace the tile floor in a bathroom, is removing the vanity typically required (in addition to the toilet of course)? my bathroom floor is hella ugly, so I'm looking to do this, but I've also found places that do refinishing which is why more affordable. They use a "binary compound chemical coating" since obviously paint won't work, and it isn't affected by humidity. They said they don't typically do it and is not covered by warranty, but at the same time it's only $650 and I don't need to remove any fixtures. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 19:02
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Oh yeah, it's worth remembering that you won't be able to see the lower backs of those shelves because of how high up they are, unless you grab a ladder or something. So there's plenty of space back there to bolt poo poo to the wall without it hurting your aesthetics any.
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Mar 25, 2021 19:06
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RE: throwing a slab of drywall onto a small bathroom ceiling. Is it a bad idea to cut a larger piece of drywall into small pieces for ease of installation? Asking because my bathroom too drat small to fit drywall lift. And due to COVID I can't utilize any slave labor from friends.
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Mar 25, 2021 19:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My main thought with French cleats is that you need some clearance above the shelf in order to be able to put it over the lip of the cleat. That means you can't build the shelf all the way up to the ceiling. As long as you're fine with that, I don't see a problem with using cleats here. That's what moulding is for.
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Mar 25, 2021 19:18
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Wasabi the J posted:That's what moulding is for. The moulding would cover the gap, but your shelves would still be more limited in how tall they could be.
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Mar 25, 2021 19:25
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We had our front porch and sidewalk demolished to replace the drain system under the house and in the front yard. There was a decent hole in the ground. This was 4 months ago. Mason #1 told me that the the ground must settle and then the porch and the sidewalk can be rebuilt in the spring (now). Mason #2 told me that the porch has a foundation so the ground didn't need to settle. He said he could have rebuild the porch immediately. He said the sidewalk cannot be repaired for 1 year so that the ground can settle. I'm trying to figure out which one of these guys is right, if any. I do have #3 scheduled to come out for an estimate, but not for two weeks. MrChrome fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Mar 25, 2021 |
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Mar 25, 2021 22:17
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Gathering that neither of these dingdongs have heard of a tamper.
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Mar 26, 2021 04:06
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Aside from pain-in-rear end factor of install, are there any downsides to using glass subway tiles as backsplash, like these? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Elida-Ceramica-3x12-Super-White-Glass-3-in-x-12-in-Glossy-Glass-Subway-Wall-Tile/1001027586 I'd love to go with a white grout, but I'm worried about discoloration and uneven colors after some years from grease splashes.
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Mar 26, 2021 04:13
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GD_American posted:I'd love to go with a white grout, but I'm worried about discoloration and uneven colors after some years from grease splashes. 10 minutes with an electric toothbrush followed by using a white grout pen if needed should fix and discoloration or uneven colors so I wouldn't let that stop me
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Mar 26, 2021 07:23
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I live in an apartment building with big single-hung aluminum windows that have spiral balances. The windows are very difficult to open and close, so I swung one out to see what's going on. I can't tell if the balances are broken or not, but they're covered with a thick, sticky goo that was probably once some kind of grease. They also make an unpleasant grating noise when you open and close the window. Are these even supposed to have lubricant on them? My guess is no, which means these have been trashed for a while and maintenance is bandaiding it. The building is only doing emergency maintenance requests due to covid, so I was hoping to be able to at least mitigate the issue if I could do it myself.
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Mar 27, 2021 00:06
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Charles Ingalls posted:10 minutes with an electric toothbrush followed by using a white grout pen if needed should fix and discoloration or uneven colors so I wouldn't let that stop me I use a steam cleaner and it immediately restores grout color, no matter how gross it got. The grout sealant stuff works really well for preventing it, the goo and splatter just bead off.
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Mar 27, 2021 00:20
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PainterofCrap posted:Gathering that neither of these dingdongs have heard of a tamper. Most dingdongs that used tampers probably just fully backfill and then tamper, so there'd still be a good chance of enough settlement to cause visible cracking or separation at CJs anyway. I'll never understand why it's so hard to get people to simply do proper lifts and tampers.
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Mar 27, 2021 07:05
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So we've got aluminum-sided french doors on our patio and as we've been coming into spring I've noticed that they're making loud popping noises as it starts to get dark and cool off. Some nights it's a pretty dramatic cracking sound that can even wake us up. I think they may be doing this because they're expanding/contracting in the heat. Is there anything to be done to dampen/limit this? Or is it otherwise even repairable?
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Mar 27, 2021 08:44
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I’m peeling off wall decals in my sons room and they are not coming off as advertised...they’re peeling the paint and it looks like the first layer of drywall with them, so it looks like brown cardboard on the wall if that makes any sense. What’s the best way to fix this? I think if I just do a layer or two of paint, you’ll still see the circles where it took the paint and drywall off. Maybe a layer of mud? Also-is there a better way to prevent this on other walls I’ll be putting decals on? Maybe the surface wasn’t prepped correctly or something?
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Mar 27, 2021 20:42
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