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People replace cabinet doors all the time. You can measure them and mail order them yourself, or take the measurements to a cabinet shop, that's what most people I know have done.
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Apr 11, 2021 17:55
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Yup, you can get new doors with all the fancy soft close hardware and everything, a cheap Condo's usually standard sizes, so if you can find a cabinet wholesaler and wait for slow-boat shipping from China, you can probably find nice solid wood doors for the cost of cheapies from Lowes or HD.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:10
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I talked to a place that did "cabinet remodeling" where they keep the frame, but put on larger doors that give a frameless look, and the appropriate hinges, and paint them. It was about 1/3 the cost of putting in new cabinets. Dryer question: recently, a lot of condensation builds up when running my electric dryer, so much so that there is moisture on the wall, and on the glass top of my washer. Should I be purchasing a dryer vent cleaning kit to help with this? It also looks like I should be checking for the debris where the dryer vents to the outside. edit: never mind, it seems that the vent on the back of the dryer is not going into the ducting. This might have happened when I was trying to clean out all the dust from back there. I assume that's the source of the issue. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Apr 11, 2021 |
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Apr 11, 2021 18:43
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Yeah, something's wrong with your vent, make sure it's run straight, well sealed at any connections, and clean.
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Apr 11, 2021 18:55
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FogHelmut posted:Is there a place that does? Sherwin Williams/Benjamin Moore/any real paint store
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Apr 11, 2021 19:07
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, something's wrong with your vent, make sure it's run straight, well sealed at any connections, and clean. I went and pushed it back in, seems fine now. I'm just an idiot. Is there supposed to be any sort of tape or other sealant where the vent coming from the back of the dryer goes into the venting coming from the wall? I don't see anything. There is some sort of tape or sealant where the venting goes into the wall though.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:17
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Yeah, you're gonna want to tape that, aluminum foil ducting tape (not duct tape) is best.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:18
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Elviscat posted:Yeah, you're gonna want to tape that, aluminum foil ducting tape (not duct tape) is best. thanks! It's weird because I don't think it was ever taped and I've been here ten years. At least I don't see any tape or tape residue. btw for the "cabinet" remodeling thing, I have a small galley kitchen with six lower cabinets, six upper cabinets, and six doors. The estimate I got was as follows: paint existing cabinet boxes 255 x 9 = 2295 doors replaced with new doors and hinges 155 x 12 = 1860 drawers replaced with new door fronts and glides 115 x 6 = 690 so that's about 5k. Of course there's a million other "extras" you can do that inflate the cost if you want, like trash pull-outs, one of those little pull down drawers right below the sink to hold sponges and such, etc. I have framed cabinets, and I want a frameless appearance, so this is a pretty good deal - a full reno would be at least 15k based on various estimates. Also this let's me keep my countertops, which I got a couple years ago.
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Apr 11, 2021 19:22
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My wood deck needs a stain and protection badly. I have a Sherwin-Williams nearby--assume that is better than picking up Thompson's water sealer or whatever. Can someone check my prep and materials steps? Clean Prep: lightly pressure wash the wood so that the spots where existing stain is still around is gone, get a consistent "bare wood" look. Materials: assume separate stain and protectant is the way to go, kind of like wood stain and varnish? Do I want waterborne or oil based? Is the IR-reflective stuff as gimmicky as it sounds? Anything other advice would be appreciated.
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Apr 11, 2021 22:20
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Hed posted:My wood deck needs a stain and protection badly. I have a Sherwin-Williams nearby--assume that is better than picking up Thompson's water sealer or whatever. That ought to be good for prep. Make sure any remaining old stain doesn't still bead water. Any of those deck stains are made to be standalone products, you don't put a separate clear sealer on top. Figure out what kind of look you want first. That SW stain line has the following options, in order of least to most pigment/opacity: Transparent (not clear, has a little tint to it)- available oil-based only Semitransparent- available oil or water based Semisolid- available water based only Solid- available waterbased only Generally speaking, oil based will penetrate deeper into the wood so it wears better in high traffic areas and has better water repellancy. Waterbased is more UV resistant and much more mildew resistant. The pigments in the stain provide much of the UV resistance so the further down you go towards the solid end, the longer the stain will usually last.
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Apr 11, 2021 23:12
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actionjackson posted:thanks! It's weird because I don't think it was ever taped and I've been here ten years. At least I don't see any tape or tape residue. Thanks for the advice, to the other goons too. Did they paint right over the veneer (?) or did they peel it off and paint the particle board directly? Or do you have wood (heh)? If I could, I wouldn't mind replacing the whole thing with the exact same configuration, just better materials, while keeping my same (granite) counter tops, sink etc. As they are still fine. At least in my mind, they are fine. Its the veneer thats kinda peeling and or chipping a little bit. TBH, everything else *seems* ok if just needing a good deep cleaning and if I just did the doors, I'd see about getting wood (heh) thats roughly the same color/shade so that it doesn't look out of place having like darker doors, but lighter framing, or whatever its called. The insides of my cupboards are generic white, slightly coarse plastic glued to the particle board, which I'm fine with.
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Apr 11, 2021 23:53
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Thanks for the advice, to the other goons too. I haven't had it done, I just had them come by for an estimate. For the door it says "maple veneer, solid panel with MDF center" I assume they paint over the veneer - choosing maple makes sense than as it's one of the easiest woods to paint. I would definitely try the remodeling, if you do a full reno they may not be able to save the existing countertops (depends on how they are attached).
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Apr 12, 2021 00:02
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actionjackson posted:I haven't had it done, I just had them come by for an estimate. For the door it says "maple veneer, solid panel with MDF center" Word. Thanks for the advice. I'll look in to just doing the doors and then deep cleaning the poo poo out of the rest of it. Its not that bad, despite the goon stereotype, but I should probably pay a bit more attention to the non-visible places in here.
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Apr 12, 2021 00:33
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What are some high quality screwdriver sets for Philips and slotted (maybe some other ones)? I have a drill, but it's a bit silly to bust out the drill for something I can manually tighten or loosen. I'm looking for a decent sized set that is built with quality. A friend suggested a Vessel Ball Grip to me, but I can't seem to find any "sets" on Amazon, only single pieces. Any suggestions?
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Apr 12, 2021 01:45
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obi_ant posted:What are some high quality screwdriver sets for Philips and slotted (maybe some other ones)? Just want to piggyback onto this question to ask what the absolute best screwdriver set would be if money was no object.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:49
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It's the one that feels best in your hand. We all have different hands with different preferences. Kids do love the "Wera" though, start there. I have a ton of the red/blue handle buy-by-the-ton manual drivers from the bottom bin in home depot. They're screwdrivers.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:53
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obi_ant posted:What are some high quality screwdriver sets for Philips and slotted (maybe some other ones)? I picked up a Wera Kraftform recently. Their stuff is a little pricey but the laser tips are good at grabbing fasteners. https://smile.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Pieces/dp/B0001NQQCM/ Amazon's got a four piece Vessel Ball Grip set for about the same price. Not sure if it's what you were looking for, though: https://smile.amazon.com/VESSEL-No-2204CS-Ball-Screwdriver-4pcs/dp/B07QK2V9X3/ VelociBacon posted:Just want to piggyback onto this question to ask what the absolute best screwdriver set would be if money was no object. I think that's a hard question to answer definitively since there's a lot of different uses that different screwdrivers are for. I like the Wera for general stuff, but if you're doing high voltage there are sets for that (made by lots of brands). I've got four or five sets of precision screwdrivers and prying tools for working on electronics and cell phones and tablets. Ifixit has some good kits for that. I've also got some stubby handle screwdrivers for hard to reach areas and even a super slim sideways screwdriver I had to use to get the screw out of a curtain track that was less than half an inch from its neighbor when I didn't want to remove them from the wall. So for general use I'm happy with Wera but there's a lot of higher end brands that are good. If you want one set to do everything you might need something more expansive or a few sets for specific tasks. If money is really no object I'm sure Snap-On has kits to sell you.
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Apr 12, 2021 01:57
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^^^ Snap-on screw drivers are surprisingly lovely. They have those horrible square handles, and the steel they're made of is bad compared to Wera or Wiha, they're about as good as Kleins, but with dogshit handles instead of nice handles. Wera's are excellent, so are Wiha, Klein and Stanley makes a decent screwdriver you can hop down to Home Depot and buy. Honestly, while I have a set of ancient Weras, and will use them if I'm driving screws all day, a $10 10-in-one, Husky or Kobalt, or preferably Klein is your best bet, the tips are all cast from hard and brittle as gently caress steel, so they fit screws and wear really well, and they're near disposable.
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Apr 12, 2021 02:23
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My first Wera purchase was a Kraftform Kompakt 25 and it has an array of phillips and flat bits, the flats are hollow ground. So not a laser tip set but better for say not chipping the paint on wall plate screws. For OPs use case I'd recommend considering that if you do go Wera.
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Apr 12, 2021 03:19
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I love tool talk. I've noticed the Weras before and yes I should have specified it would be for general purpose - I have this flathead/phillips set from Jonnesway that I've been using for about 12 years but I've lost one of the flatheads and the blow molded case no longer locks shut, I was thinking it was time for an upgrade if possible although I've been very happy with these. e: I have a bunch of other drivers for small stuff and a few ifixit-type kits.
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Apr 12, 2021 03:48
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Anyone want to help me diagnose my riding mower engine that won't start? It's a Kohler 7000-series in a cub cadet. The symptom: pressing the key, the lights and dash display come on, and a second later, I hear a faint click, but nothing else. Start motor doesn't even try to move. I've made sure I'm activating the safety interlock on the seat and the brake. The dash displays errors for those if I'm not. The lights come on, so I know I'm getting juice to the system in general. I put the battery on a charger, it said it was good to go, and I left it for a day on there anyhow. Didn't help anything. I also tried starting it with the charger in starter assist mode, which is like 60A, and got the same response. Based on some googling, I decided it was the starter solenoid, the one just off the battery that provides power to the starter itself. My voltmeter, from the post on the starter itself to a random bare screw on the chassis, said 0V when I had my wife sit on the seat and attempt to start it, so that tracked. No juice to the starter, it's not gonna do anything. That's a $30 part, so I gave it a shot. Swapped that out, pretty easy, tried again and...nothing, same response. On a whim, I grabbed a jumper cable and put that on the positive battery terminal and then touched it to the post on the starter motor. It went for it! Couldn't actually turn the motor over, but it sure tried, and I suspect it just had a poo poo connection and maybe some other electronics weren't engaged. But the point is, that starter motor is alive and kicking. So if the starter motor is alive, and the battery is good, and there's a brand new starter solenoid in there, what the hell else could it be? Software?!
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Apr 12, 2021 19:35
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone want to help me diagnose my riding mower engine that won't start? It's a Kohler 7000-series in a cub cadet. what does your multimeter do if you set it to DC and bridge + and - on battery? your battery is most likely dead / your connections are bad.. so get a wire brush and clean the contacts on the battery and on the terminals, Check for the grounds to ensure it's in place and working properly. "starter assist mode" of 60a might not be anywhere near enough since it seems like the 25HP motor needs 300CCA Clicking generally means it's about to start but doesn't have the juice. shorting out the starter and it not actually being able to do that makes me think the battery isn't that great. If this was me I'd 100% try and get a replacement battery / get my battery tested prior to dealing with starters etc. Especially considering you did a manual attempt to start by jumping battery directly to starter. edit: I'm not sure about fancy rear end mowers with big motors but maybe there's a low voltage cutoff that keeps you from burning up your starter with low voltage. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 19:44
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Bad Munki posted:Anyone want to help me diagnose my riding mower engine that won't start? It's a Kohler 7000-series in a cub cadet. Sounds like the wire that brings + power to the starter isn't able to (broken, corroded, etc) but it's helpful to know if this is an old thing with corrosion everywhere or if it's a new looking situation. I'd also check the grounds from the starter but if it's doing something when you jump the starter it's unlikely to be that. Honestly you can just put the key in the on position and try to start it by jumping the starter itself like you did. If that's not enough power to turn it over I'd try putting the charger thing on it in 'jump mode' and try to jump directly to the starter with that also on the battery terminals.
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Apr 12, 2021 19:47
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I had a simular issue with my Cub Cadet I thought was the battery which ended up testing good at an auto parts store. There ended up being a fuse mounted inline on one of the wires that had blown. Might be worth checking for.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:23
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It’s only a few years old, and everything looks drat near new inside, no corrosion or anything, just a little dust. There’s actually a voltage readout on the dash, says 12.4 when it’s on, and drops to like 12.3 when attempting to start. I’ll check with an actual voltmeter the same way when I get home. Gonna make sure I didn’t mix up the control pins on the solenoid when I installed it, too. Not sure how I could, there’s not really enough slop in the wiring harness, but I’ll check the connections there either way. When I did the starter assist with the charger, that was with the charger on the battery posts, so in parallel with the battery. When I attempted to jump the starter directly, that was just the battery alone. Also, is there a better way to do that without throwing sparks?
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Apr 12, 2021 20:26
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Final Blog Entry posted:I had a simular issue with my Cub Cadet I thought was the battery which ended up testing good at an auto parts store. There ended up being a fuse mounted inline on one of the wires that had blown. Might be worth checking for. There is a 20A auto fuse mounted in-line just off the battery, but that looked good as well. Basically, if I can’t figure it out tonight, I’m just gonna call it an “oh well I tried” and drop it off at the place I bought it tomorrow morning. They’re pretty awesome and won’t gently caress me around or anything, it’ll just be a week or two before I get it back and I should have mowed last weekend.
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Apr 12, 2021 20:29
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Bad Munki posted:There’s actually a voltage readout on the dash, says 12.4 when it’s on, and drops to like 12.3 when attempting to start. That reads good to me, though it should be closer to 14v iirc. That low drop makes me think it's not "trying" to start as much as it sounds like. Are you sure the new solenoid is good? Assuming it's smaller than your car battery what if you hook it up to your car and do a traditional jump start on it? Bad Munki posted:When I did the starter assist with the charger, that was with the charger on the battery posts, so in parallel with the battery. When I attempted to jump the starter directly, that was just the battery alone. Also, is there a better way to do that without throwing sparks? Squint and look away when you do it.  (Seriously wear safety glasses.)Dumb other questions because I know nothing about these: There isn't some kind of clutch that should be disengaged to reduce load on the starter? If you can physically see the starter, what if you unbolt it (I assume it's like 3 bolts) and try to start? Does it whiz around like it's going to zoom off into orbit? (Wear safety glasses.) Ohm out your + and - connections and make sure they aren't through the roof. Check lug tightness the whole path along.
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Apr 12, 2021 21:02
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It’s a hydrostatic transmission or whatever so no, it’s not engaged until you hit the go pedal. PTO doesn’t engage unless you press the PTO button, for which there’s a safety interlock as well, and it pops an error on the dash if you try to start with that on. I’m a little wary of this whole thing because there’s a lot of computer in here, like, even starting it isn’t closing a circuit to the starter solenoid, you press a button and it’s actually telling the computer to do that, so it runs whatever checks, and then turns on, so I’m inherently suspicious that the computer has decided to not cooperate based on some of the behavior here. Gonna try jumping it off the truck, though, that’s not a bad idea.
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Apr 12, 2021 21:39
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Hey boys, we got it! I guess the crank assist on my charger is just poo poo, jumping it off the truck got it going with relatively little fuss. New battery it is!
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Apr 12, 2021 22:30
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Bad Munki posted:Hey boys, we got it! I guess the crank assist on my charger is just poo poo, jumping it off the truck got it going with relatively little fuss. yeah "start assist" at 60 amps.. is not enough to kick off a decent sized lawnmower engine.. like I said the spec I came across on the interwebs suggested a 300 Cold Crank amp battery.. so 60 amps + what was left in the battery is not enough. you can try and clean off your connections to see if it's corroded from sitting in the garage/shed all winter before throwing money at a new battery. if not then battery it up son.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:15
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I've never had the "start assist" on any modern 12V charger do anything worth a drat. The giant buzzbox-on-wheels charger my mom got at a K-mart when they closed up around here, that fucker will jump something. I just went through the same poo poo with the absolute poo poo Deere L100 riding mower the PO of my house left me. They killed the eight month old battery by leaving the key on forever for no good reason. It would instantly jump to 12V when hit with a charger, but would plummet sub-6V while trying to crank. Positive cable was also rotten as hell so I replaced that with a $3 Walmart cable. Starts up perfectly now, but mowing is still a nightmare because it clogs the chute to the bags almost immediately.
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Apr 12, 2021 23:36
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The contacts are lovely, no corrosion at all, like they’re darn near pretty. I’ll bring the battery along when I go to replace it, have them check it just to be sure. Either way, now I’m not delivering the thing to the shop just for them to call me in a week telling me my battery is shot. That’d be almost disappointing. The worst part of all this is that I ended up with a spare solenoid? And by all accounts, those DO go kaput from time to time, so now I have a spare all ready to go. I’ll call this a net win. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Apr 12, 2021 |
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Apr 12, 2021 23:38
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Here is the AI small engine repair thread which I just added to the OP, for anyone who might be looking: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888147
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Apr 12, 2021 23:45
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Small?! I have the souls of 26 purebred race horses trapped within this thing, how dare you
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Apr 12, 2021 23:54
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Bad Munki posted:Hey boys, we got it! I guess the crank assist on my charger is just poo poo, jumping it off the truck got it going with relatively little fuss. 
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Apr 13, 2021 01:46
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My garage door cables snapped on both sides. I'm not really familiar with the variations in garage doors so I'm not even sure what I am getting into. Each side has a pulley overhead of the vertical section of track. The pulleys are on some rod with springs around them. The cables don't, say, turn 90 degrees in the pulley and go to a separate spring setup. Can I normally expect to just replace the cables or should I be doubting the pulleys too? The problem is that both broke so I can't readily just compare one side to the other, figuring out the differences, and use that to determine all I have to replace.
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Apr 13, 2021 04:12
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I'm pretty sure snapped cables mean you have to rewind the spring, which is some high-energy poo poo you really don't want to get in to if you're not familiar with garage doors. I recommend calling a garage door company.
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Apr 13, 2021 04:16
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Yeah, the garage door springs are one of the few things that could easily maim/kill a person who isn't familiar with them. Getting them replaced by a local garage door tech isn't very expensive usually either.
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Apr 13, 2021 07:56
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:My garage door cables snapped on both sides. I'm not really familiar with the variations in garage doors so I'm not even sure what I am getting into. Each side has a pulley overhead of the vertical section of track. The pulleys are on some rod with springs around them. The cables don't, say, turn 90 degrees in the pulley and go to a separate spring setup. Can I normally expect to just replace the cables or should I be doubting the pulleys too? Yeah there's going to be a spring somewhere in there that assists with pulling the door up/down. If the cables snapped, the spring will have unwound itself and will need to be re-tensioned. Do NOT gently caress with the springs. The amount of tension needed to pull the door up is huge and incredibly dangerous. Call a garage door service place. A new set of springs was like $250 installed for ours, and IIRC that included new cables.
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Apr 13, 2021 13:08
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| # ? May 29, 2024 00:09 |
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I've got an uncle that's one of those guys that could probably build an entire garage door system from scratch if he had to and he still calls the garage door guys when there's a problem with one at the farm or his house.
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Apr 13, 2021 20:49
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