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i think they're trying to shake their reputation as the place where you get poo poo you don't mind if it breaks the third time you use it, but i don't think they realize that prices them into a much more competitive market
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 03:08 |
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Yeah. I noted this thing yesterday: https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-ratchet-genuine-24-karat-gold-plated-56907.html And in the comments...: quote:I would love to have this rare edition.. but I would never use it because its only so often to use a 3/8 drive in aviation work... please ICON. Make a 1/4 drive of this ratchet so I can buy one and flex on the snapon users. About that ...
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The self proclaimed tool daddy seems to love it. I guess I have to use it with black sockets only because chrome will clash.
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For those of you that remember a few months ago, I was looking for some 12 point crow foot sockets. The set that I ordered for 17 bucks (and paid 15 bucks to poo poo) was good, but didnt have the right size I needed 1 1/8" SOOOOOO............ After looking for a while, I came across the snap on website, and bought (just to be sure) both 1 1/16" and 1 1/8" sockets. Each socket costing more than the entire set that I bought a couple months ago. I Finally got around to trying to tighten the fitting that has been just ever so slowly sweating out hydraulic fluid, and also to change a line that was leaking at the hose/fitting connection. I was all like "gently caress yeah, finally going to do something about this poo poo". Then I went to try and put the wrench on the fitting. Its too fuckin tall now.... ![]() To make things even more ![]() A goon up thread suggested I sand down the crow foot. gently caress, do I really want to do that to one that cost more than my entire set? FFFFFFFUUUUcccccckkkk!!
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I've used a bench grinder to modify soooo many snap-on crow foots, shaving them down to fit in tight places, adjusting their size....
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Krakkles posted:Yeah. I noted this thing yesterday: I have a friend who is an aviation tech, works on helicopters. His boss made him get snap-on tools because the master craft and power fist tools he was using didn’t “project the right image to customers”
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personally i love that hf is making the ratchet equivalent of a grille
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Frank Dillinger posted:I have a friend who is an aviation tech, works on helicopters. His boss made him get snap-on tools because the master craft and power fist tools he was using didn’t “project the right image to customers” his boss had better have paid for them. OMGVBFLOL posted:personally i love that hf is making the ratchet equivalent of a grille Same. If I still worked auto I would totally buy and rub it in the face of the guys decked out with snapon and matco.
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Frank Dillinger posted:I have a friend who is an aviation tech, works on helicopters. His boss made him get snap-on tools because the master craft and power fist tools he was using didn’t “project the right image to customers” what the gently caress person that owns a heli is looking over the shoulder of a tech? Even if he works for somebody contracting out work for a leasing company...provide the tools if you're going to make it a requirement. So long as he can do the job... If my company that did Apple-specific stuff told me to buy a MBP upon starting I'd tell them to gently caress off.
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Crunchy Black posted:what the gently caress person that owns a heli is looking over the shoulder of a tech? His father in law. It’s complicated!
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Frank Dillinger posted:His father in law. It’s complicated! Nah, his FIL is a dick.
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Elmnt80 posted:Nah, his FIL is a dick. he already said he owned a helicopter ![]()
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Are there any scan tools that allow visualizing fuel trims that are not stupid expensive? Do the fancy $300 harbor freight scanners do anything that comes close to a real deal oem technicians scanner or snapon level multiple thousand dollar unit? I am chasing fuel trim/maf/injector stuff and my bargain basement code reader is just not the right tool. Do you have recommendation? (early 2000s Toyotas) I think I know the answer but hoping to be wrong.
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I've always used Torque and an elm327 Bluetooth adapter.
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It's mostly dependent on the car, in my experience. I could see it through Torque and my $18 Bluetooth tool on some cars, but others just didn't show up for whatever reason
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meatpimp posted:Just shipped my No-loving-Good Milwaukee M18 circular saw off to get warranty service. The first part was easy, Milwaukee just asks for model and proof of purchase, then prints out a prepaid FedEx label. I dropped it off for FedEx to pick up and we'll see how the process goes. Last night, a week after shipping it out, I got an email with a tracking number from Milwaukee. Shows delivery scheduled for tomorrow. No notes as to what they did, but I'm curious to see what shows up!
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That's how both of my experiences were - there'll be notes in the box with whatever they ship back. I look forward to finding out if it's a nicely packaged brand new tool or a battered box with your barely "fixed" tool hanging halfway out! ![]()
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New tool arrived:![]() I have their 1/2" 20v and love it. It is a beast. But it is either a bit big or overkill for a lot of things. Initial impressions I have of the 3/8" is great size, decent power. I'm sure I will get a lot of use out of this thing going forward.
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That’ll get anywhere the 1/2” won’t and weighs a fraction what it does too. It’s one of those tools that has me eyeing an old Miata just so I can wrench more.
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I want one of those, but can't justify it with already having the big hoss 1/2" and the 1/4" hex with various adaptors. Them and a bunch of extensions and wobble joints really do make wrenching a whole lot easier, though my arms do get tired of hefting the big boy around all day for, say, dropping a transmission.
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Those bug me because I already have the 3/8" Milwaukee because I wanted something smaller/lighter/faster than the big one, and if I'd held out, I'd have the same torque in a smaller/lighter(?)package. I'll probably end up buying the 1/2" stubby at some point, just can't really justify it.
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Krakkles posted:Those bug me because I already have the 3/8" Milwaukee because I wanted something smaller/lighter/faster than the big one, and if I'd held out, I'd have the same torque in a smaller/lighter(?)package. I'll probably end up buying the 1/2" stubby at some point, just can't really justify it. Sell your compact and buy a stubby. It’s good
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I know it's been asked before but what are the threads fav ways to store their battery powered tools? I've got all Milwaukee M18, 5 batteries + drill, driver, circ saw, flashlight I'd like to store.
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Depends on your application. Are you mobile (van/truck/trailer), or stationary (workshop)
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CarForumPoster posted:I know it's been asked before but what are the threads fav ways to store their battery powered tools? I've got all Milwaukee M18, 5 batteries + drill, driver, circ saw, flashlight I'd like to store. For my application, which is mostly in the shop at work, but sometimes at home or other places, I use bags. ![]() Originally I got the drill and impact which came with a battery for each and a tool bag. I kinda wanted the hard case, but soon after I decided that the bag was better (IMHO), because I'm not limited to the molded spaces for what I can carry. Later I got two more batteries, and a bunch of other poo poo and I grew out of the bag. Milwaukee has discontinued its tool bags likely in favour of their packout stuff. But I went to Home Depot and just got a big-ish husky tool bag and it fits my Drill, driver, Sawzall, work light, m12 ratchet, nut fucker 5000, and most recently a 5 inch angle grinder. The bag is getting pretty heavy now though, so I might have to buy another and split things up. The original tool bag that came with my drill and driver is now relegated to battery, bit set and blade carrying duty and still has a decent amount of room in it for more poo poo if I want. Also, box vs bag: most bigger tool bags that I've seen come with a shoulder strap. Good if you've got a lot of heavy poo poo in your bag.
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Someone in HCH whipped up some 3d printed "feet" with the same pattern as the battery interface and screwed them to the wall, pretty slick. I like to leave them in a haphazard pile wherever I'm working though.
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I'm not 100% happy with this layout, but it works with the space I have (under the tool cart) and anything more elaborate would require a tool chest or some permanent built in solution I'm reluctant to do in a rental.![]() Bunch of 1/8" ply dividers with enough random spaces for driver bits, grinder disks, etc. The chargers and batteries just kinda pile up inelegantly and there's not a lot of room to expand.
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Hoping to mount them somewhere visible so I can see when something is out of place Elviscat posted:Someone in HCH whipped up some 3d printed "feet" with the same pattern as the battery interface and screwed them to the wall, pretty slick. lol this is also my current setup for most of them AmbassadorofSodomy posted:For my application, which is mostly in the shop at work, but sometimes at home or other places, I use bags. You can still get the bags as a combo deal, thats how I got mine actually. And this is what I do with the drill driver and batteries but I find that I always have a battery laying about somewhere. My biggest tool problem is that I am usually hot and tired when done and thus all my poo poo goes in a pile on my work bench for months.
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CarForumPoster posted:Hoping to mount them somewhere visible so I can see when something is out of place I've seen people use ~3ish inch PVC to make power-tool holsters that go under shelves, like this: ![]() https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/how-to/a19471/drill-storage-holsters/ I've used some screws driven into plywood to make little racks for DeWalt batteries before. It wasn't terrible, but it also wasn't great.
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That pvc pipe thing is cool but most of my 18v stuff is to weirdly shaped for that to work. I was thinking pegboard but I'll probably just buy a box with deep drawers to stow them.
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I have ridgid brushless 5x impact that I bought a year ago or so. It has seen light homeowner use in that time. I’ve noticed that the impact function is engaging poorly ie when driving a screw it will just stay in high speed drill mode and then I end up stripping the head out. I’ve got another older kobalt impact and it has no problems with this. Anyone experience something like this? I have the LSA so I guess I can just call them.
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ThirstyBuck posted:I have ridgid brushless 5x impact that I bought a year ago or so. It has seen light homeowner use in that time. I’ve noticed that the impact function is engaging poorly ie when driving a screw it will just stay in high speed drill mode and then I end up stripping the head out. I’ve got another older kobalt impact and it has no problems with this. If it ain't doing what its supposed to and its still under warranty, bring that poo poo back.
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Rhyno posted:That pvc pipe thing is cool but most of my 18v stuff is to weirdly shaped for that to work. I was thinking pegboard but I'll probably just buy a box with deep drawers to stow them. Search my posts here. I made custom mounts for all my Makita LXT stuff.
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meatpimp posted:Last night, a week after shipping it out, I got an email with a tracking number from Milwaukee. Shows delivery scheduled for tomorrow. FedEx showed scheduled delivery of Friday all day Friday... until Saturday, when it changed to "Pending." Still showing "Pending" now. Hopefully it shows up tomorrow. In other news, my cousin just got a job at TTI, which is the parent company of Milwaukee, among others. Employee pricing is pretty sweet. I may need to give him a list. ![]()
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Frank Dillinger posted:Sell your compact and buy a stubby. It’s good Slick deals has a Grainger deal for the 3/8” stubby, a rapid charger, and a 12ah battery for $250, which is apparently 46% better than the previous recorded deal. I needed new m18 batteries anyway.
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meatpimp posted:FedEx showed scheduled delivery of Friday all day Friday... until Saturday, when it changed to "Pending." Still showing "Pending" now. Hopefully it shows up tomorrow. I've had more problems with FedEx during the pandemic than every other carrier combined. At this point I completely ignore the first delivery estimate and remain skeptical about the second one.
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Krakkles posted:Welp. That didn’t take long. ive been thinking of getting onto the cordless train for when i dont want to haul my air hose out to the car. got a link?
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Raluek posted:ive been thinking of getting onto the cordless train for when i dont want to haul my air hose out to the car. got a link? https://www.grainger.com/product/MILWAUKEE-Cordless-359YV8 I have no business buying this. Add to cart.
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StormDrain posted:https://www.grainger.com/product/MILWAUKEE-Cordless-359YV8 looks pretty good, though now that i think of it, since compactness is its biggest asset, would the big chonky M18 battery be a liability? maybe the M12 fuel version is more desirable, since it has a smaller battery but the same torque output. not like a nutfucker that would need to be M18
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# ? Jun 11, 2024 03:08 |
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If it's your only one, yeah probably. I figured it would be nice having the big rear end battery for my big rear end impact. Truly I have no business buying that so I was joking for the record, I am holding out for a deal on a M12 Stubby kit,or at least a good deal on a bare tool plus a big battery. I could use a big m12 battery for my die grinder which seems to run out in the middle of a cut.
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