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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Baltic birch and hardwood plywood/lumber haven’t been as crazy as softwood stuff that gets used for building houses. That being said, prices there are definitely going up too, though not nearly as fast. I’d buy it sooner rather than later but it’s probably gonna be a $5-10/sheet difference at most if you wait. Prices on stuff like hardwood plywood have definitely gone up a lot more at the big box places than at specialty suppliers. Yep, a lot of end point sales yards don't keep a huge stock on hand anymore, and what stock they had evaporated over the last year. The best way I find to explain it is that if we can produce 10 'lumbers' a day and we sell 11, eventually we'll have 0. So if I'm a lumber maker I want to get as much money as I can for the 10 I can make. Which is why prices are going up and quality is going down. I know our big box stores over in the UK brought in a shed load of plywood a grade lower than they normally have on the shelf for the same price and even that has run out. I went to go and get some Ply to make some tool storage and what little they had was way more expensive than I was willing to pay. We haven't even got to the summer yet too, which is when Garden projects go bonkers so we've still got that rumbling away in the background. Treated timber is already ridiculously pricey.
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Apr 25, 2021 21:28
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Anyone have strong feelings about wall paneling and columns? I'm building a dividing wall behind my bed and trying to figure out what would look best (and how thick the columns should be) Edit: The goal is to have it look like this  or this 
Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Apr 26, 2021 |
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Apr 25, 2021 23:30
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signalnoise posted:For a novice woodworker, what are good practices for getting useful wood at lower prices? I keep hesitating to buy materials because I feel like I'm going to waste money on wood I'm not prepared to use well, but at the same time, I have had bad experiences with construction lumber for practice stuff because it can be full of knots that my tools hate, and some lumber has a ridiculous grain that chips out in huge pieces when trying to use a chisel on it. I'd like to practice joinery and stuff but navigating the world of materials for decent prices is intimidating because I don't know how to evaluate wood well in the first place. The short version is that you try to find a hardwood lumber yard, then go there and see what their prices are. Prices often vary by location, so e.g. what's cheap where I am in California may not match what's cheap where Kaiser Schnitzel is (IIRC in Georgia?). For workability, the three main things you want to watch out for in a hardwood are how hard it is (Janka hardness test, higher is harder; just search for the species of wood you're wondering about), how straight the grain is, and how interlocked the grain is. Harder woods are of course harder to work, and they're harder on tools as well. But the stuff you make from them is correspondingly more durable. A hard maple cutting board will last a lot better than one made from poplar (you really shouldn't make a poplar cutting board). Straight grain is easier to work than curved, wavy, or otherwise irregular grain, because when you hit a change in the grain pattern, the wood changes density, which changes how it responds to your tools. Interlocking grain is a little harder to describe, but basically it makes the wood more prone to tearing instead of slicing. When you cut the wood, you're trying to grab part of it and pull it away from the rest of the wood, and interlocking helps that little bit of wood pull the fibers close to it along for the ride. It's far from a death sentence, but it does make getting clean results harder. For my money, my favorite wood is cherry. It has decent but not exceptional hardness, the grain is straight, and it isn't interlocked. It's also relatively cheap in my area, and it's attractive. Pretty much the only reasons I buy non-cherry wood these days are either for variety, or because they were out of cherry in the sizes I needed when I went to the yard. 
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Apr 26, 2021 01:34
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signalnoise posted:For a novice woodworker, what are good practices for getting useful wood at lower prices? I keep hesitating to buy materials because I feel like I'm going to waste money on wood I'm not prepared to use well, but at the same time, I have had bad experiences with construction lumber for practice stuff because it can be full of knots that my tools hate, and some lumber has a ridiculous grain that chips out in huge pieces when trying to use a chisel on it. I'd like to practice joinery and stuff but navigating the world of materials for decent prices is intimidating because I don't know how to evaluate wood well in the first place. Like others have said, hardwood lumber places are good. If they have cut-off bins, absolutely go through those. It's usually way cheaper since it would otherwise just be waste. The place I go to gave me this whole pile for $20: 
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Apr 26, 2021 04:10
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drat, 20 bucks for that seems like a bargain. Thanks for all the replies yall Also, I'm in Georgia myself, just outside Atlanta. I found a place that has this price list online, and yeah comparing to Home Depot it definitely is much less expensive per board foot. I figured that would be the case, but this is really good info regarding various wood types and what to look for. It might just be the case that much of the frustrations I have are less about processes and more that the consistency of the wood I generally try to use, given that it's intended for carpentry rather than for woodworking projects, is just not suited for the work I'm doing. Experience is work a hell of a lot more than words though so I'll just need to buy some of each of the woods mentioned and try to do things with them and see how they behave. Kaiser, if you are indeed in Georgia, where do you shop for wood?
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Apr 26, 2021 06:01
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For all your wood finding needs use https://www.woodfinder.com That sounds like a lovely ad but it lets you search by your zip code to find places nearby that you never knew existed. I found a couple of places near me before I moved to buy wood at for reasonable prices. I haven't used it lately since I haven't been doing much with stuff I haven't found laying around but I checked it out again before posting the link and it still works as intended. Also the local to me architectural recycling store has a guy who does urban logging that sells live edge slabs for a pretty reasonable prices. It's worth looking into if you have something similar nearby you if your looking for something like that as well. Thumposaurus fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Apr 26, 2021 |
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Apr 26, 2021 14:17
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Thumposaurus posted:For all your wood finding needs use https://www.woodfinder.com This seems like it's going to depend on how online your local area is, because I put in my zip code and it failed to list the two closest places I know of that are each about 30 miles from me and went to places that are 80 miles.
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Apr 26, 2021 14:33
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Yeah, that gave me the Rockler twenty miles from me which carries tiny pieces and scrap and missed the lumber yard five miles away.
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Apr 26, 2021 14:34
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signalnoise posted:For a novice woodworker, what are good practices for getting useful wood at lower prices? I keep hesitating to buy materials because I feel like I'm going to waste money on wood I'm not prepared to use well, but at the same time, I have had bad experiences with construction lumber for practice stuff because it can be full of knots that my tools hate, and some lumber has a ridiculous grain that chips out in huge pieces when trying to use a chisel on it. I'd like to practice joinery and stuff but navigating the world of materials for decent prices is intimidating because I don't know how to evaluate wood well in the first place. Find old pallets to practice on
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Apr 26, 2021 14:49
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Rutibex posted:Find old pallets to practice on Counterpoint: Pallets are full of sand and nails. They dull your saws and chip your chisels. Buying cheap poplar from somewhere is less expensive than your tools. e. The real answer is to get a froe and start riving planks from firewood.
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Apr 26, 2021 14:55
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Is there an equivalent (or supplement) to Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing" that includes paint? I'm doing more painted furniture this summer, and have previously had mixed results with painting. I've used deck stains (good results so far), as well as interior/exterior latex with and without primer (solidly mixed results, primer-to-paint adhesion has been an issue for some of the outdoor pieces). I feel like Flexner's book pretty much solved interior (and some exterior) sealers/stains/topcoats for me. But when it comes to paint, I'm having a hard time getting the full "systematic" understanding of what my options are, how various oil and water-based paints and primers interact with wood and each other, etc.
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Apr 26, 2021 15:43
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Application process is the biggest hurdle to getting consistently good finishes on paint. If you're going to paint something and want the best finish you can get. Spray it.
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Apr 26, 2021 19:52
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How much air does one need for a sprayer? My dad has a pancake compressor (5 gal?) and I'm wondering it it'd be enough to spray at least small objects.
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Apr 26, 2021 19:57
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Uthor posted:How much air does one need for a sprayer? My dad has a pancake compressor (5 gal?) and I'm wondering it it'd be enough to spray at least small objects. Depends on the sprayer. I have one that doesn't even need a compressor and it works fine. But you should be fine for most of them I'd expect? My old neighbor did all his cabinets with his small compressor and sprayer, so there are plenty of options.
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Apr 26, 2021 20:41
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Uthor posted:How much air does one need for a sprayer? My dad has a pancake compressor (5 gal?) and I'm wondering it it'd be enough to spray at least small objects. Depends on so much of the setup. The sprayer you use, the appropriate PSI for the sprayer and the paint, etc. In my experience, pancake compressors with tanks generally will auto-shutoff when above a certain threshold, and then turn back on when they are below a certain threshold. So, for example, if you need 50 PSI for your sprayer and your compressor turns on at 70 PSI, and can produce air fast enough that you don't drop below 50 PSI and your regulator is good, then you can just leave it plugged in and you won't run out once you get going. That's all a very arbitrary hypothetical, but it should help you wrap your head around it. The arbitrary 50 PSI there is pretty high for spraying paint, by the way. I highly suggest you test your paint on a scrap to see how the finish comes out with the paint and pressure you're going to use before using it on a real project. Also, if you do not have a regulator, get one. Check what the paint and sprayer say about operating pressure.
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Apr 26, 2021 21:11
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JEEVES420 posted:Adding on to this. If you are using the face shield while turning it might keep the chips/dust out of your face but will do gently caress all for a thrown piece. Get a proper face shield, they are cheap. $25.66 ?! The same is $70.66 from amazon.co.uk 
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Apr 26, 2021 21:29
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Vier posted:$25.66 ?! The same is $70.66 from amazon.co.uk If you need a face shield in the UK drop me a PM. I work for a PPE company. That goes for anyone needing anything like respirators, gloves, shoes whatever.
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Apr 26, 2021 21:39
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Uthor posted:How much air does one need for a sprayer? My dad has a pancake compressor (5 gal?) and I'm wondering it it'd be enough to spray at least small objects. Yeah, but the keyword is *small*. serious gaylord posted:If you need a face shield in the UK drop me a PM. I work for a PPE company. I guess you moved on from upscale menswear? I'm seeing a goon project here, friend. Upscale PPE. Fashionable, modest, yet safe.
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Apr 26, 2021 22:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yeah, but the keyword is *small*. Sales is a pretty universal skill.
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Apr 26, 2021 22:56
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yeah, but the keyword is *small*. Yeah, just wondering if it's even worth the effort to explore. Air sprayers seem fairly cheap. I used it for an air impact and I wouldn't want to use it professionally, but it would take off a tire at a time. Maybe look at air nailers, too... I don't think those take a lot of air.
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Apr 26, 2021 22:58
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If you want to spray get a hvlp turbine from earlex or fuji imo.
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Apr 26, 2021 23:08
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What's the opinion on the new Veritas Side Clamping Honing Guide? https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/sharpening/guides/111759-veritas-side-clamping-honing-guide I'm fine with a basic guide but my cheap knockoff guide is annoying. The Lie Nielsen is so pricy for what it is.
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Apr 27, 2021 01:03
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serious gaylord posted:Application process is the biggest hurdle to getting consistently good finishes on paint. I’ve been using a cheap HVLP sprayer from Rockler, it does a pretty good job with everything I’ve sprayed with it, mostly water based poly and thinned latex paint. I haven’t used it for anything oil-based because of the cleanup hassle. I haven’t tried spraying deck stain yet, but might give that a shot for some of these pieces. A specific issue I’ve had on outdoor pieces is poor adhesion between oil- and shellac- based primers underneath mid-grade indoor/outdoor latex paint. I’m going to try higher-quality 100% acrylic outdoor latex; any other tips? The reason I’m looking for a comprehensive book on the subject is that I’m sick of googling “can you use latex paint over X” or “adhesion between latex paint and Y” and getting terrible SEO content mills like SFGate.
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Apr 27, 2021 01:06
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NomNomNom posted:What's the opinion on the new Veritas Side Clamping Honing Guide? Hey, timely question. I just bought both of the new Veritas guides, the side clamp and the short blade (which can also handle skew blades). So far I've only tried the side clamp. Context: I've owned an eclipse side clamp guide, and the entire Veritas MKii set of guides which I was using til now. I sharpen using mylar backed adhesive sandpaper on a granite tile. My take: the side clamp guide is really good. I can't say if its better than the lie nielsen, but its way better than the eclipse style guides, and much leas fiddly than the mkii guides. If the short blade guide hods up to expectations my mkii set will be going up for sale. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Apr 27, 2021 |
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Apr 27, 2021 01:07
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Thanks for the insight, I knew someone had picked it up recently. Seems like exactly what I'm looking for: a quality guide at a good price.
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Apr 27, 2021 01:22
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I picked one up, and I've got the MkII setup as well (which is very good and I want to throw it across the shop on a regular basis). Wide roller and the three points of contact is excellent, and a positive over the Lie Nielsen jig, and obviously it's a thousand times simpler than the MkII. I really see zero reason to get anything else for normal plane irons and chisels (and normal angles). Sort of striking sitting next to the functional travesty that is the MkII   Because one side has a straight wall under the registration face, it means that flipping the jig bevel-up to set depth can be fiddly. It'll want to drop down and lose contact with the three registration faces. I'm going to make a version like Lie-Nielsen usually shows with blocks instead of drawn lines so setting depth can be done accurately with the bevel down (and gravity keeps the tool in alignment with the top of the jig). 
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Apr 27, 2021 02:01
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GEMorris posted:If you want to spray get a hvlp turbine from earlex or fuji imo. I think a $100 chinese Iwata knockoff gun run on a small compressor (which has lots of other uses besides just spraying) will leave give a much better finish. I sprayed several beds with a 5 gal hitachi compressor before I got a big one and it worked fine. It would run alot, but as long as I tooksome breaks to let it catch up, it was fine. It made not have kept up on a big dining table top, but on a normal hobby table/sideboard/whatever it would do fine, if a little slow. Probably still save time (and definitely effort) vs. sanding and rubbing all the orange peel out of the earlex finish. Uthor posted:How much air does one need for a sprayer? My dad has a pancake compressor (5 gal?) and I'm wondering it it'd be enough to spray at least small objects. signalnoise posted:drat, 20 bucks for that seems like a bargain. Thanks for all the replies yall
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Apr 27, 2021 02:57
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I finished up a thing finally. Designed it myself to fit the space / accommodate 1/2gal Ball Jars which is our primary dry good storage device. It's about 8' long and I had to assemble the outer wings 1st and partially finish then move it up to the dining room to assemble around the center portion / hang the doors otherwise it wouldn't have been able to get out of the basement woodshop. Mortise and tenon joinery, maple stringers and top, cherry breadboard ends, pine veneer plywood panels. Biggest piece of furniture I've made yet. At some point I'll turn my own pulls out of cherry to help color contrast a bit more with the maple, using some cheap commercial pulls for now. 
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Apr 27, 2021 14:18
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benthic posted:I’ve been using a cheap HVLP sprayer from Rockler, it does a pretty good job with everything I’ve sprayed with it, mostly water based poly and thinned latex paint. I haven’t used it for anything oil-based because of the cleanup hassle. If the primer is fully dry and clean, it shouldn't be problematic. Always better to spend a few  for better quality than go with bargain bin stuff.
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Apr 27, 2021 15:48
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That Works posted:I finished up a thing finally. Great work! What'd you use to make the breadboard mortises?
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Apr 27, 2021 16:21
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ColdPie posted:Great work! What'd you use to make the breadboard mortises? Thanks! Router table for the mortises and then with an end guide and router jig / handsaw and block plane to cut down the tenon and snug it in. It's got 3 1"x2" tenons at the center and ends that I drawbored the ends onto (since I don't have any 8' long clamps!).
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Apr 27, 2021 16:24
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That Works posted:that I drawbored the ends onto what does this mean?
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Apr 27, 2021 18:33
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Leperflesh posted:what does this mean? https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/drawboring-resurrected/
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Apr 27, 2021 19:03
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Its cheating to use dowels and mortises 
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Apr 27, 2021 19:09
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Ahah! OK I remembered the technique but not its name. I assume you did this from the underside, to hide the peg ends, although I might consider showing them as a detail if I could do them neat enough. What wood species do you usually use for the pegs, I imagine they need to be hardwood?
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Apr 27, 2021 19:14
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That Works posted:I finished up a thing finally. I like this. Lovely colour choices as well. Really works with the room its in.
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Apr 27, 2021 19:19
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Leperflesh posted:Ahah! OK I remembered the technique but not its name. I assume you did this from the underside, to hide the peg ends, although I might consider showing them as a detail if I could do them neat enough. What wood species do you usually use for the pegs, I imagine they need to be hardwood? You can do hidden ones from underneath. I did them all the way through because I think it's a nice visual accent.  The dowels were oak and the cherry is newly cut so it's very pale. By the end of summer it'll be dark brown and the contrast will look even nicer. serious gaylord posted:I like this. Lovely colour choices as well. Really works with the room its in. Thanks a bunch! Looking back at it now I wish I had sprung the extra for some maple veneered plywood for the panels but the pine works pretty well. The dining table that I am making for this room next will have an identical top, same length but 1' wider with 2" longer breadboards on each end. It will be a trestle table mostly in the same maple with some cherry accents laminated into the center legs and cherry breadboards also drawbored like these.
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Apr 27, 2021 19:35
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Chiming in on prices as of this weekend, my local (expensive, bay area) California lumber shop is still about the same prices on all of the fine woodworking stock (hardwood dimensional lumber, higher quality hardwood plywood), up 10% at most. Cheaper stuff for cabinetry is up 30 - 50%
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Apr 27, 2021 20:41
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HolHorsejob posted:Chiming in on prices as of this weekend, my local (expensive, bay area) California lumber shop is still about the same prices on all of the fine woodworking stock (hardwood dimensional lumber, higher quality hardwood plywood), up 10% at most. I'm bay area, which shop is that?
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Apr 27, 2021 20:48
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As soon as we hit our self-imposed deadline for buying a new house (and thus just staying and doing some updates, yes I know the contractor market is also poo poo) I am going to put in a huge lee valley order and (for me) a huge hardwood lumber order as well. This poo poo isn't going to get any better any time soon imo.
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Apr 27, 2021 20:50
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