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i'm rapidly realizing how rusty I am with this kind of design + recalling that I've never designed injection mold tooling in particular, i'm getting absurdly ahead of myself here asking about conformal cooling (thanks for that btw). i need another grand-ambition half-finished project at this moment like i need another hole in my head i think i'm mostly excited from realizing i'll able to use this low-melt metal mold tool workflow for a second, potentially more practical/useful manufacturing tool, and the barriers to doing that second thing are much lower than i would have expected Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:45 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 03:43
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I am looking to have this printed: Here, I put together a world-editable google sheet for people to offer up their services https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UAebpOkdSKwWXIIBAJa8V4Sl3w1Bfk1Il2v5iF_SEgA/edit?usp=sharing You put in your name, your region (NE, SE, NW, California, etc), your pricing (free-$-$$-$$$-$$$$), approximate quality (1-5), what type of machine (filament, resin etc) e.g. for my entry I put "norcal", "really cheap", "it'll probably come out good" and "filament" with a note that I only do local pickup maybe that will help 
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May 17, 2021 03:53
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Sailboat project in progress, 5 of 5 sections printed, now I have to glue them together  Total length 1 meter, part of an RC sailboat project  edit: now with less unintended cropping Hadlock fucked around with this message at 04:50 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 04:37
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Awesome, will you be weighting the keel with sand or something?
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May 17, 2021 06:15
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Siraya Sculpt Ultra preliminary review: this stuff is great ran a single small figurine test print. forgot to follow the involved pre-printing prep Siraya recommends (warming the bottle up, inverting it for 10 minutes, shaking for 5 more, shaking the bottle for 5 before every print and mixing up the vat every single time, run it at 30C, etc etc) but the part still has the crispest surface definition and best finish ive ever gotten off the printer before, i'm p sure. it's very hard and holds fine detail phenomenally, kind of feels like a nice upscale phenolic resin sorta material in the hand. yeah this is gonna be the perfect stuff for dies
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May 17, 2021 06:43
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I am going to be the god awful newbie with the god awful newbie question. What entry level 3D printer is best for a beginner who wants to primarily print enclosures for DIY electronics projects? It seems every Instructable now has a 3D printed component. Also, yes, I’ll probably want to print mini figs for gaming group…but mostly the enclosures and such. I did the math on how much the tools for making traditional DIY enclosures are (drill press, table saw, etc), and the entry level printers I have skimmed will cost about the same.
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May 17, 2021 06:57
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Ender 3 if your budget is around $250. Prusa i3 if your budget is around $800. They will both make good parts, but the Ender has a number of recommended upgrades out of the box (not expensive) and will require a little more frequent fussing. The Prusa is more expensive but it tends to just work. If you want to make game figures you probably should be looking at resin printers, which is a different ballgame. Their resolution is much better than the FDM printers mentioned above but they are much less suited to making electronics enclosures.
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May 17, 2021 07:04
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The Ender 3 v2 or a Prusa are your best choices. The Ender 3 v2 is a little over $250 with sales from time to time and Prusa has the mini+ at $350 for a kit or the i3 mk3s for $750 for a kit. Prusa's got some lead time on their shipping at the moment but are good. The Ender 3 v2 is like the Ender 3 with much fewer teething problems and some upgraded components, and is decent out of the box.
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May 17, 2021 07:11
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Rexxed posted:The Ender 3 v2 or a Prusa are your best choices. The Ender 3 v2 is a little over $250 with sales from time to time and Prusa has the mini+ at $350 for a kit or the i3 mk3s for $750 for a kit. Prusa's got some lead time on their shipping at the moment but are good. The Ender 3 v2 is like the Ender 3 with much fewer teething problems and some upgraded components, and is decent out of the box. The Ender 3 v2 is the one that I keep seeing recommended, but I am open to all suggestions. Thanks. Edit: ok, real talk: which printer am I least likely to become incredibly frustrated with and toss across the room? Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 07:36 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 07:29
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Marsupial Ape posted:The Ender 3 v2 is the one that I keep seeing recommended, but I am open to all suggestions. I feel like dumping mine in the river every goddamn time I have problems but troubleshooting and fixing stuff is kind of a part of the hobby. There's a ton of help online as long as you buy a printer that a lot of other people have and all of the above fit that bill. The Prusa kits take some time to assemble but you learn how everything goes together. The Ender 3 has less assembly but there's a wealth of information online about them. I think it really comes down to if you're willing to pay a bit more for a Prusa to potentially have fewer issues over time. It'd be even less of a decision if they could ship them more quickly but they're having supply chain issues just like everyone else. The Ender 3 is assembled in Shenzen but they have warehouses all over the place and is probably the most widely owned platform at this point, even though the v2 is slightly different than the basic one. Here's Thomas Sanlanderer talking about the Ender 3 v2 (and comparing it with the CR-6 SE which was a kickstarter printer made by the same company): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jkrblU9lMI Here's his review for the Prusa mini. I'm not sure what upgrades are on the mini+ but there's likely some quality of life improvements: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce4oluQxyc0 Tomb of 3d printed horrors (his channel is Fat Dragon Games' youtube channel, they do 3d printed miniature stuff) assembling the Ender 3 v2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTN6jtB5mqk Chuck Hellebuyck assembling the Ender 3 v2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6cqQZTc-4Q
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May 17, 2021 07:56
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Marsupial Ape posted:Edit: ok, real talk: which printer am I least likely to become incredibly frustrated with and toss across the room? None of them. None of them will give you this, but the closest would be the Prusa.
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May 17, 2021 07:57
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It really depends on how easily you get frustrated, but the prusa is going to be about as good an experience as you can hope for. FDM printing involves a fair amount of tweaking and tuning regardless of the printer.
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May 17, 2021 08:03
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Get one too big to throw, bish bosh, problem solved.
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May 17, 2021 08:15
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Another dumb newbie thinking about getting into the hobby here, what's the general consensus on a creality cr-10 on the throw-across-the-room scale?
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May 17, 2021 08:25
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Radio! posted:Another dumb newbie thinking about getting into the hobby here, what's the general consensus on a creality cr-10 on the throw-across-the-room scale? The urge to hurl it into the Sun is only matched by the knowledge that even attempting it would throw your back out forever.
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May 17, 2021 09:14
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Radio! posted:Another dumb newbie thinking about getting into the hobby here, what's the general consensus on a creality cr-10 on the throw-across-the-room scale? I recently got an Ender 3 Max which is basically a larger Ender 3 Pro, while a friend of mine got a CR-10 V3. I've been able to get some decent results with mine and haven't had any major issues except having to learn how to level the bed properly. My friend is still having to calibrate his CR-10 since his prints are still failing at pretty odd times - His prints generally fail a few hours in while mine fail in the beginning if they fail at all. I haven't personally tried the CR-10 printers nor am I any kind of expert on them, but a youtube channel I follow has a print farm running only CR-10 printers to make helmets from Star Wars and he seems to do pretty well with them - It's called Galactic Armory on Youtube.
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May 17, 2021 09:52
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KFJ posted:I haven't personally tried the CR-10 printers nor am I any kind of expert on them, but a youtube channel I follow has a print farm running only CR-10 printers to make helmets from Star Wars and he seems to do pretty well with them - It's called Galactic Armory on Youtube. Yeah I've always wanted to get into making costumes/cosplay/etc and that's actually the channel that made me start seriously thinking about buying a printer! It's also why I was thinking about the CR-10 to begin with, but I'm definitely going to look into the various Ender 3s now too.
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May 17, 2021 10:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:Awesome, will you be weighting the keel with sand or something? Yeah I have 3lbs of lead shot (from a diving weight) but I suspect I'll need another 1.5 lbs to hit the water line and be useful. There's some 2.5mm carbon fiber rod glued in the bottom, my hope is that the epoxy and lead shot will mix with that and provide some kind of axial/transverse load support as the whole thing is just 0.8mm filament shell Mistakes... were made gluing two of the joints together, the 2nd and 3rd largest (of 5) segments were misaligned by about 1.5mm and, suprise, you can't go back and fixed fast-cure superglue, so I tried fairing the alignment issue with... hot glue? Which was a disaster, as I'm remembering now that you cannot sand hot glue under any circumstances. So I threw some paint on it, as my fairing compound seems to stick to that pretty well, and I'll give it a go tomorrow I cut a hole in the deck for an access hatch, and I have to say, this stuff despite being a single layer thick is actually quite durable and doesn't appear to want to come apart until you get really rough with it with pointy objects like knives. Overall really pleased with this method of construction, people build these things out of wood and/or fiberglass and have build logs that stretch on for weeks and months as they have to build a stand, then cut out the temporary bulk heads, then cut out hundreds of tiny strips of wood, then glue those on, THEN cut out more strips of wood, and glue them in an opposite hatch pattern, finally sand sand sand, and paint. And then start work on the deck. This thing was literally printed in my sleep across 5 nights and I'm at where a traditional wood guy would be around week six. Hull crudely sanded, with access hatch in place: 
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May 17, 2021 12:52
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Marsupial Ape posted:The Ender 3 v2 is the one that I keep seeing recommended, but I am open to all suggestions. I'm gonna recommend the Prusa Mini+ because you get access to tech support. There's plenty of information out there on the Enders and so on for you to troubleshoot, which is great, but it's also hard to beat dedicated tech support. The Prusas have a great KB, and also someone paid to help you figure out what's wrong with your printer. For a first timer, I think it's invaluable because it helps you figure out how and what questions to ask to troubleshoot, and if you want something bigger or a resin printer later on, you'll have the vocabulary to troubleshoot them. Lastly, Prusa have tested a gazillion filaments for their own printers, and they make really good filaments, too. I got my Mini over anything else because if I get Prusament to use with it, the only likely source of errors is going to be me, which the tech support people can figure out pretty easily. TL;DR, it's the smoothest possible entry into 3Db printing and the choice to make under $500 if you want what comes out of the printer to be your hobby instead of the printer itself.
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May 17, 2021 13:43
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Radio! posted:Another dumb newbie thinking about getting into the hobby here, what's the general consensus on a creality cr-10 on the throw-across-the-room scale? CR-10 is getting long in the tooth these days. I’d go for an Ender 5 plus if you want something that big. Ender 5 is basically an Ender 3 so a lot of the E3 stuff is applicable to the E5. I’m not sure how tolerant of forging new paths you are (sounds like not very based upon the throwing question (and the only way to avoid that is to have someone else print things for you)) but Elegoo came out with the Neptune 2 which is an FDM printer that is getting very good reviews and is only $160-$170 bucks. They sell out fast though and I finally just found one in stock on Amazon this morning and ordered one. Otherwise I would say that the Prusa mini will be the least frustrating but also a lot more expensive. I can attest that they are worth the cost if you are fairly sure you won’t get bored of the hobby after 6 months. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 14:07 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 14:04
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My vote is for the Ender 3 V2, it made great prints right out of the box. Leveling the bed takes about 30-45 minutes the very first time. I only got the BLTouch because I felt like I needed to modify my device in some way. 180x180mm seems pretty small, I am already running into sizing issues after a month with 225x225mm. At least with a Ender 3 V2 you can just get an "ender extender" upgrade kit if you need to size up. I was printing a multi-story/multi-raspberry pi enclosure, and I could only print two levels at a time with my 225x225. If you're only using the thing for very occasional projects and minatures, then 180x180 is probably fine. Ender Extender XL allows you go go from 225x225x250 all the way up to 400x400x450mm, but there's smaller, cheaper upgrade kits as well.
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May 17, 2021 14:06
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Ender V2 is a good plan. They have delicate mainboards... but weather that hits you or not is really quite the toss up. I back up the Prusa too. Size starts to be a thing there... that difference bewteen 200mm and 235mm ends up being rather significant. Comedy Option: Voron v2.4 kit from china... Hadlock posted:Sailboat project in progress, 5 of 5 sections printed, now I have to glue them together Wow. Is this your design? R/C sailboats are really rewarding. Hadlock posted:Here, I put together a world-editable google sheet for people to offer up their services I'm on the spreadsheet now. I can do the whole range of printing from "this is ugly but structurally fine" to "this looks like art". Nerobro fucked around with this message at 15:35 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 15:28
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Nerobro posted:Wow. Is this your design? R/C sailboats are really rewarding. No, this is a J-Class, originally designed in the 1930s and built to determine if the US or UK were the best sailors in what came to be known as the America's Cup (named after the boat, not the county) they're usually about 125-140 feet long with a crew of 60. They're giant, enormous, an elegant boat for a more civilized age https://www.yachtingworld.com/j-class/j-class-endeavour-sale-rare-chance-buy-one-iconic-yachts-ever-built-61761 Most of my "designs" look like variants of the IMOCA 60 which look like the love child between a 60' slice of inflated pizza and carbon fiber https://www.imoca.org/en/boats This j class boat just happened to be the most sliceable boat on thingverse, to give me some practice 3d printing boats before I attempt to print one of my own designs https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4095781 Hadlock fucked around with this message at 15:48 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 15:45
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Hadlock posted:180x180mm seems pretty small, I am already running into sizing issues after a month with 225x225mm. At least with a Ender 3 V2 you can just get an "ender extender" upgrade kit if you need to size up. I was printing a multi-story/multi-raspberry pi enclosure, and I could only print two levels at a time with my 225x225. If you're only using the thing for very occasional projects and minatures, then 180x180 is probably fine. Ender Extender XL allows you go go from 225x225x250 all the way up to 400x400x450mm, but there's smaller, cheaper upgrade kits as well. Yeah, I'd also say get the Ender 3 v2 for exactly the reason, at least if you're cross-shopping with the MINI+. I've done print-in-place enclosures on a V2 that barely fit on the bed. Obviously, it depends on exactly what kind of electronics projects you'll be working on, but I think the smaller build volume of the MINI+ is actually going to end up being a pretty big point of frustration for this particular use case. If you're bumping up to an MK3S+ then you can ignore this.
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May 17, 2021 16:32
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All the build area in the world is worthless if you're constantly troubleshooting the hardware though. I miss the days when Monoprice printers weren't so hilariously out of date and you could do the "buy it, play with it for a couple weeks and return it for a refund if you hate 3d printing" newbie path.
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May 17, 2021 16:57
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What's the current go-to for a first FDM printer these days - Ender 3? Edit: somehow I missed the last page of discussion, never mind 
Toebone fucked around with this message at 18:36 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 18:33
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Toebone posted:What's the current go-to for a first FDM printer these days - Ender 3? When you order it, make sure to get yellow springs, and a metal extruder. Adds about $20, and does amazing things for QOL. And your .. second? third? print should be a santsana cooling duct. I can dig up the $20 amazon link.... There's a whole ecosystem of "stuff" to print to bling out your printer. 95% is varying levels of useless drifting into harmful.
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May 17, 2021 19:06
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Nerobro posted:When you order it, make sure to get yellow springs, and a metal extruder. Adds about $20, and does amazing things for QOL. And your .. second? third? print should be a santsana cooling duct. I can dig up the $20 amazon link.... That was going to be my next question: what after market addons should I immediately buy. I have read enough to know the metal extruder is a must.
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May 17, 2021 19:21
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Marsupial Ape posted:That was going to be my next question: what after market addons should I immediately buy. I have read enough to know the metal extruder is a must. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DN6RM2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the one I went with. Has a better Boden Tube, Boden Connectors, Metal Extruder, and Yellow Springs for the bed. It's probably the best combo, since all of those are weak points for the stock ender. My SD card that came with the printer failed pretty quickly, but those are hit or miss according to Reddit. The stock SD card to USB reader has been great at least.
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May 17, 2021 19:56
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Came in today! Now to install it on my E10 and find something to print!
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May 17, 2021 21:14
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Bondematt posted:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DN6RM2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the right answer.
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May 17, 2021 21:56
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Bondematt posted:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DN6RM2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Just one caveat here. If you get the Ender 3 Max this recommendation may or may not apply perfectly. On the Max specifically. No idea on other models. The springs are shorter than the stock ones. That would be fine but you can't adjust the height of the z-stop switch so the shorter springs end up leaving the bed way too high even with no compression. I printed some spacers which helped but currently it comes out of level after a single print and I was doing better than that with the stock springs. A few things are different from the standard Ender 3 on the Max from what I can tell based on what I've read of folks recommendations. My extruder was already all metal. Z-stop cannot be adjusted in height as the holes are bored directly into the frame instead of tension based. The springs are already the yellow flat type but I think they feel a bit softer than the oft recommended ones. Anyway, these differences made a lot of standard "Buy this for ender 3" write-ups really confusing! Also, if you always get the first few layers squished no matter what you do for bed temp it's probably the eccentric nuts on the x-gantry. Mine were too tight and causing binding on the lowest heights making my low layers smooshed. Getting great results now but yeah, I had to do some learning/trial and error. Basically, the advice people give is good but I recommend buying a thing at a time to address specific problems instead of immediately throwing on all the recommended upgrade parts. You might actually create more problems for yourself than you solve. Edit: The cooling duct is also different. It appears shaped similarly to the Sansana on a cursory glance but I'm not sure how close. DisposableHero fucked around with this message at 22:55 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 22:48
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I think we can just call the ender 3 max it's own printer. Versus the Ender 3, ender 3 pro, or ender 3 v2. There's enough differences.
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May 17, 2021 23:01
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mattfl posted:Came in today! I need a trip report. I didn’t realize they finally have the right size for an E10.
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May 17, 2021 23:49
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Anyone using sirayatech fast grey on a mars pro/mars 2? Im getting this weird issue on my machines where the supports occasionally don't attach to the raft and fail. I'm not sure if I just hosed up something but I'm printing 0.03mm on them and I'm still seeing the issue after ramping up from 2s on on the mars 2 and 7s on the mars pro...
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May 18, 2021 00:53
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i learned that the prusa mk3 can truly print to the very edge of its build plate today, when i made a vat lid for the mono X. Can anyone recommend a mono x sized vat drain...rack...thingy i can print up or buy? I have shaky hands so it's tough for me to hold the vat long enough to fully drain the resin. Something like this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754901 Deviant fucked around with this message at 01:14 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 01:07
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meatpimp posted:I've just dug out my Da Vinci 1.0A and found that it's actually pretty okay for a printer, but I've got a question -- Okay, I passed on the Zcorporation 310 Plus, even though it sold for $13 and I'm sure I could have made money in the parts. But as I've played with the Da Vinci 1.0A more, I'm tired of the piece of poo poo and remembered why I stopped trying with it in the first place -- if it prints, it'll print fairly well for an 8 year old printer. But getting a good print is one out of seven tries or so... I have continuous problems with first layer, and I'm done trying to shuffle variables to make it print reliably. So, what is the current mid-2021 go-to for a 3D printer that will work well out of the box and have room to grow in the $2-400 range?
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May 18, 2021 15:02
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:
Take a gander at the previous posts on the page! Spoiler: Ender 3
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May 18, 2021 15:25
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Doctor Zero posted:Take a gander at the previous posts on the page! poo poo. Sorry, I read through the posts on the page that I posted last and it was all higher-end discussion.  Edit: So what you're saying is that I should get a Prusa MK3S+? (But it looks like that thing has been out for several years... should I be concerned with a new release that makes it obsolete, or is this becoming developed technology at this point?) meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:15 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 15:39
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Prusa is the benchmark by which all other similar style printers are judged. Saying this as someone who really enjoys his cheaper Chinese machines - if you have Prusa money to spend, you won't regret getting one. Aside from that, get an Ender 3 and the recommended upgrades. I have three Ender 3 Pros that I work pretty hard, and they always deliver.
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May 18, 2021 16:40
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