|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:A simple shelf I made to take advantage of some wasted volume in my house. At first I thought you edge glued some 2" maple with a miter rip and was well impressed. Then I realized that hickory sapwood looks a hella like maple. 
|
#
?
May 16, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 10:04 |
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you are set up to spray, it doesn't get better than pre-cat lacquer for 'easy, fast, durable.' Varnish and 'fast' don't usually go together in my mind, but that stuff seems much faster drying than traditional oil based varnish. Reading the TDS "Depending on temperature and environmental conditions, you have only 45-90 seconds to maintain a workable edge, so it is recommended that you work diligently" seems like it might be a pain? It says it is a water based poly that I guess has something in it to make it dry super fast. I had never heard of pre-cat lacquer before and now I'm on the hunt for some to try it out. I already have an HVLP setup that should work but holy poo poo is it impossible to find in my area. I may have to find a reputable online dealer. I found General Finishes Enduro pre-cat lacquer on amazon but a bunch of the reviews said it was expired when they received it. I called every Sherwin Williams store in my area but no go. I even have a local Rockler store in the area but they don't carry that line from General Finishes. It's probably because I'm in NY and they have very restrictive rules on VOCs compared to other states but I'm committed now. Need to find.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 18:29
|
|
|
You should see if there’s someone that carries it for commercial customers. There’s whole classes of finishes that the guy who did my floors can buy that I can’t without that business license. It’s supposed to be a training thing where pro customers will know how to use it safely, but these are the same people who will do a whole old floor refinishing job and not wear masks. So it probably exists in other places, even in NY. Maybe you can get one of them to buy some for you.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 18:38
|
|
|
Numinous posted:I had never heard of pre-cat lacquer before and now I'm on the hunt for some to try it out. I already have an HVLP setup that should work but holy poo poo is it impossible to find in my area. I may have to find a reputable online dealer. I found General Finishes Enduro pre-cat lacquer on amazon but a bunch of the reviews said it was expired when they received it. I called every Sherwin Williams store in my area but no go. There are waterborne, catalyzed lacquers as well that may be an option. I looked into them a few years ago because I didn’t want to go to the expense of setting up a spray booth for solvent stuff, but didn’t wind up trying any out for a number of reasons. It’s very humid here which can really slow the drying, and I use water borne dyes which can bleed out into water borne lacquers. Target Coatings got recommended a bunch on the internet as acting the most like solvent based lacquer-you might look around for them. I use ML Campbells finishes and my local sales rep for them really didn’t recommend their water borne lacquer until a year or two ago when they they came out with a new product/formula and he says it works well even in this swamp. They’re definitely getting better all the time as more and more places restrict VOCs. I’ll try it out sometime in a personal project. They do have the advantage of mostly being non-yellowing too iirc. E: you may have a hard time finding a pre-cat. Usually the tougher the finish with a pre-cat, the shorter the shelf life. I use 2 different precats-one is Very Tough and has to be used within 120 days after the catalyst added (they add right before I pick it up) the other one is sort of halfway between a normal, uncatalyzed nitrocellulose lacquer and the super tough one and it has a 1 yr shelf life and is catalyzed at the factory. More catalyst also means faster cure and so the finish reaches maximum toughness in a day or three vs a few weeks. Tougher finish also means harder to sand/rub though, so I usually use the middle of the road one, but the tougher one has more solids and needs fewer coats but you can’t build as thick of a finish or it will crack etc etc etc. There’s no perfect clear coat out there-they all have compromises. Another disadvantage imo of the precats is you do have to scuff sand between coats as they need some mechanical bonding, which nitrocellulose does not. I only scuff NC after the first and maybe 3rd coat to knock down any nibs, and that really saves a lot of time and honestly NC lacquers are plenty tough. It’s what’s every piece of factory furniture from 1920-1970 at least had on it, and it makes a beautiful finish. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:51 on May 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 19:40
|
|
|
I just tried to order some Baltic birch and they said don’t expect to see any until January, lol.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:05
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oh hmm I didn’t think about that. The stuff I use I get from a cabinet supplier and it does say INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY on it. Sherwin Williams definitely makes precats but you have to find the store that supplies cabinet/millwork shops, which is not the normal SW. If you’re near a decent sized city I am sure there is one, but no idea if they’ll sell to you. You need to spray any solvent born lacquer outside because the spray and solvents as they dry are very very flammable. It sounds like in NY that point may be moot anyway. I found this https://www.alpinefinishes.com/prod...VOC/p/267548894 and placed an order. The 550VOC is still above the NY limit but if they ship it, I'm good. I had to do the same when I refinished some floors and wanted to use a nicer commercial grade oil based poly. Most of the online places don't seem to care. Idiots not wearing proper PPE ruining it for the rest of us. This is why we can't have nice things...
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:09
|
|
|
There are UV cured lacquers available too but I have never personally used them. This showed up with s quick Google https://www.solarez.com/product/i-cant-believe-its-not-lacquer-quart-only/ I just use NC lacquer cause it meets all my needs and is easy to spray and clean up.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:11
|
|
|
I swear every time I eyeball something all it does it prove my eyeballs are not good
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:25
|
|
|
Numinous posted:I found this Again, spray outside! Not in your garage with the door open-outside! My old boss’s first shop burned from a spark from turning the lights on igniting the spray room first thing in the morning from lacquer off-gassing overnight. It’s serious business.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:29
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’ve used the duracote stuff before and it’s not my favorite for a few reasons I’m really picky about (mostly color and how it rubs out), but it’s basically fine. I’d get a vinyl sanding sealer to put under it, but it may not need one-I can’t remember. Even if it doesn’t require a sanding sealer, it makes sanding all the trash under the first coat a ton easier. Good advice on the sanding sealer. I will do that. I've got one of those popup spray shelters I set in my back yard. Put some cardboard down on the ground. Full paint suit, gloves, goggles, and organic respirator. Not loving around with things that contain VOCs. I'll spray it outside, wait a couple hours, and then move it to my detached garage for a couple days before a second coat with the windows open and a box fan circulating.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:51
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I just tried to order some Baltic birch and they said don’t expect to see any until January, lol. I've got three pieces of 3/4" 24"x30" baltic birch that I ordered from Rockler back in December that I was going to use to re-do my workbench surface but now it feels too valuable to use for that purpose. Edit: Speaking of, it looks like Rockler has baltic birch in stock. It's expensive but might be good enough for your purposes.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 20:52
|
|
|
Numinous posted:Not loving around with things that contain VOCs. I'll spray it outside, wait a couple hours, and then move it to my detached garage for a couple days before a second coat with the windows open and a box fan circulating. I wish you worked at my old job. "we wanna spray two part epoxie." "it will instantly give you cancer and you need a booth and a respirator." "so, in the back with the door open (if it's not too cold), we'll keep the vent off because it squeaks and is annoying, I'll take a smoke break between coats." "sure, as long as I'm out of the building when you do this."
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2021 21:18
|
|
|
Did some rustic outdoor carpentry today: made myself two barn doors for my hoop house! They're made of cedar planks that I got when my friend moved. I'm super happy with them and it was a fun project. I might upgrade the hinges though, as those ones look a bit flimsy in context E. It's square: the hoop house is on a slope CommonShore fucked around with this message at 00:18 on May 18, 2021 |
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 00:15
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:Did some rustic outdoor carpentry today: made myself two barn doors for my hoop house! They're made of cedar planks that I got when my friend moved. That looks like it turned out great and let a nice amount of cross breeze through when you pull back the poly. Now I'm looking forward to seeing the inside of it when you have all your plants taking over.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 00:27
|
|
|
Does anyone have a favorite / preferred design for homemade shelf brackets? Brother in law is moving into a new apt in Brooklyn and is gonna be here this weekend. He's done a bunch of measurements and I was going to cut some plywood for shelving, route the edges, wood putty in any voids and sand it up for him to paint in the trim color (they are repainting the apt). These are going to be installed into plaster and lath walls also. I can just have him buy some brackets from the store, but I figure I can make some brackets also to save them some money since I have a ton of scrap wood that would probably be useful.
|
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 13:21
|
|
|
That Works posted:Does anyone have a favorite / preferred design for homemade shelf brackets? Brother in law is moving into a new apt in Brooklyn and is gonna be here this weekend. He's done a bunch of measurements and I was going to cut some plywood for shelving, route the edges, wood putty in any voids and sand it up for him to paint in the trim color (they are repainting the apt). I'm pretty fond of this style, because there's no visible fasteners once the shelves are installed. But they do pretty much require custom fitting to achieve that, since the triangular pieces are glued/doweled to the shelf itself. You could use screws for that if you wanted, though, in which case they could easily be assembled on-site.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 14:49
|
|
|
Ok the 66 inch birch ply + maple legs console table is almost finished. I just put the second coat of stain on it. What type of finish should I do on top of the stain? BLO rubbed in with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper then beeswax, or a brushed and sanded laquer/shellac (I can't remember which of those two I have in my cupboard) After that the projects are going to be shop organization/renovation work for the next while.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2021 21:28
|
|
|
Just got a new set of the Narex Richter chisels. Flattening the backs of 7 chisels is not fun. They aren't egregiously unflat, but it's still taking 30 minutes per chisels to work through the coarsest grit. It's a shame too because they come mirror polished.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 01:39
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Just got a new set of the Narex Richter chisels. Flattening the backs of 7 chisels is not fun. They aren't egregiously unflat, but it's still taking 30 minutes per chisels to work through the coarsest grit. It's a shame too because they come mirror polished.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:13
|
|
|
IMO the backs need to not be convex, but a little concavity between the sides is OK. Convex back won't let the chisel ride flat flush with a surface when you use one to eg. trim a dowel end or scrape off some proud glue drops. But also if it's really close to flat, that's good enough.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:21
|
|
|
When I've been buying and restoring garage sale chisels that's my MO - flatten the bottom half inch or so and then lap it a few times each time I sharpen it after that
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:25
|
|
|
At the very least, the 1/4" behind the edge needs to be flat and up to the same grit as your bevel, purely because it's the other side of your cutting edge. Not-flat is a problem, but not flat and serrate/gouged/rounded over/etc is even more of a problem because you can literally never get the chisel sharp. A scratch on the back is a gouge in the cutting edge, regardless of how long you spend sharpening the bevel.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2021 02:26
|
|
|
I'm new to wood working, but is 3/8in birch plywood supposed to remove teeth from a saw: It was a cheap pull saw, but I didn't think it wouldn't make it though a single box.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 01:28
|
|
|
Plywood is hard on saws because it contains a bunch of glue, which is hard. There are plywood-specific circular saw blades out there. I don't know if there are plywood hand saws though.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 02:25
|
|
|
Plywood is also strong because they alternate the grain direction in the layers. So you're effectively ripping and cross cutting at the same time, which usually doesn't happen and leaves your saw teeth ill suited for half the work. It's very possible that the layers are thin enough that this is a non-issue, I don't know. But I've tried to hand saw plywood and it sucks.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 04:13
|
|
|
That explains so much about my own experience, I thought I had just been securing it wrong or something. Thanks for this
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 06:52
|
|
|
Yeah plywood is a wonderful material but it really sucks to work with hand tools.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 13:03
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Plywood is hard on saws because it contains a bunch of glue, which is hard. There are plywood-specific circular saw blades out there. I don't know if there are plywood hand saws though. I use a handsaw with like this with "triple ground teeth" and it works pretty good on plywood. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...20293901&ipos=3 "Triple Ground Teeth that cut on both the push and pull stroke to achieve coarse cut speed, fine cut finish and ease of start"
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 13:49
|
|
|
Yeah, thanks for these answers, makes a lot of sense. I have an old circular saw lying around, guess it's time to learn how to use it.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 13:51
|
|
|
Serenade posted:Yeah, thanks for these answers, makes a lot of sense. I have an old circular saw lying around, guess it's time to learn how to use it. Keep your non-saw trigger hand on the top handle of the saw please. Digital amputation via circular saw is the #1 emergency room visit.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 13:54
|
|
|
Lee valley makes a hand saw they say is specifically for plywood https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/saws/japanese/32939-japanese-plywood-saw
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 14:10
|
|
|
The saw in the picture has really fine teeth. If you want to use a handsaw, I think a cheap hardware store crosscut saw would probably do well enough, especially if it's "good" plywood and not like, construction grade sheets. You'll probably get rough edges but can clean that up with a plane or just hide them in joinery. Or maybe score the veneer with a knife to get a cleaner cut.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 14:11
|
|
Squibbles posted:Lee valley makes a hand saw they say is specifically for plywood I use one of these for small jobs. It's awesome for 1/4 and 1/2 but 3/4 starts to become a chore. It's doable but if you had to like rip down an 8' sheet of 3/4 ply I'd just get a power tool in the end.
|
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 14:16
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah plywood is a wonderful material but it really sucks to work with hand tools. Which is ironic, since plywood was used in ancient Egypt thousands of years ago. "Welp, Hosphenat, we've got this mighty fine idea, but I reckon we'll have to wait until the Dog Star Sirius moves 2 cubits, when mankind figure out how to use these things "nods toward battery jars" and build tools with teeth that are, hehe, get this, harder than steel. bwahahaahsphetah!" /The FarSide
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 16:47
|
|
|
Grizzly's giving me a full refund on the bandsaw order  Even the stuff that actually showed up and is fine, so free featherboards and heavy duty mobile base! All it cost was an incredible amount of my time.The smaller fancier powermatic one is now "shipped" as of earlier this week but with absolutely no shipping information other than it should be here by June 2nd. Which carrier has it? Will it show up ok? Will it show up at all?? Life is full of mysteries
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 18:45
|
|
|
Visited an antique mall outside Columbus OH, walked away with a dope wooden skew rabbet plane, a mortise gauge, and a ball peen hammer.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 21:55
|
|
|
ohhhh poo poo yeah I hate paying "boutique antique store" prices for tools that are being sold as decorative objects but gently caress me I do it anyway, a place like that would have allll my money e. that frame saw, and those planes, and lookit all those cool drawknives, and and and
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2021 22:23
|
|
|
Yeah they wanted 40 to 50 bucks for the draw knives, regardless of condition. I think they look too cool as wall decoration. Hammers were 5 to 10, the molding planes were 10 to 15 (from the Ohio Tool Company). Every hand saw I came across had a bent plate. There was a mint condition Disston that had an unpunched plate i.e. no teeth. No idea if that's rare or valuable.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2021 14:02
|
|
|
I'm done my lathe stand, complete overkill, but that's what I was going for. Cherry with spalted chenchen panels/drawers, the top is an old piece of bowling alley. It's finished with Osmo oil.  In the shop. 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2021 22:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 10:04 |
|
|
Holy smokes. That's good enough to live in the house, and that shop is clean as hell.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2021 22:42
|
|