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I've just had a handyman in to fix some stuff at my place, yesterday. One of the things was repairing the corner of my fibreglass shower base. He filled in the damaged area with some goop, then repainted the whole thing shiny white. Today I've just run my hand over it and came away with white residue on my hand. It's also rough to the touch. Is this anything to worry about? Did he use the wrong paint? It's this stuff: 
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May 18, 2021 23:59
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VelociBacon posted:I would try the magic eraser Mr Clean thing. Give it a shot somewhere very out of sight first to make sure it won't bleach the floor or whatever but I use it on my painted walls all the time and it's been safe for me so I can't imagine you'll have a problem.
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May 19, 2021 00:08
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neogeo0823 posted:I mean, ok, but how do I get the paper out? Pop the rivet, but then move the pieces back and forth until the paper disintegrates.
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May 19, 2021 00:50
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Elviscat posted:Does it have to be riveted? Seems like an ideal.application for a bushing/spacer, bolt, and a nylock nut. Originally I was going to use clevis pins, but couldn't find any that were the size I needed locally, and online only sold packs of 100+ for $70+ as far as I could find. Then I thought about nylon spacers, but I couldn't even find decently sized ones online, let alone locally. I settled on the rivets since it was $5 for a box of 50, and they came in the size and length I could use. Full disclosure: the material I'm working with is 1/8in thick, 3/4in wide aluminum. I can do 3 layers and 2 washers and fit all that into exactly 1/2in of space in a -=- sort of configuration. For bushings, the smallest I could find was an OD of 1/2in, which would leave me with 1/8in of material at the thinnest points, which didn't sit well with me. Though, I do suppose if the rivets don't work for this, I could go with machine bolts and nylock nuts. My main concern is having as low a profile as possible on each side of the joint.
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May 19, 2021 01:03
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neogeo0823 posted:Originally I was going to use clevis pins, but couldn't find any that were the size I needed locally, and online only sold packs of 100+ for $70+ as far as I could find. Then I thought about nylon spacers, but I couldn't even find decently sized ones online, let alone locally. I settled on the rivets since it was $5 for a box of 50, and they came in the size and length I could use. What size do you need? https://www.mcmaster.com/pins/clevis-pins-7/?SrchEntryWebPart_InpBox=clevis+pin
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May 19, 2021 01:42
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I often use a piece of a plastic milk jug for spacers or washers.
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May 19, 2021 01:56
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DaveSauce posted:What size do you need? Huh. Where the gently caress was that when I was googling around for those pins? Looks like I can go with these pins, and these cotter rings. Too bad I only need 8 sets of pins/rings, but 25/50 will last me for literal years of weird projects.
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May 19, 2021 02:58
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neogeo0823 posted:Huh. Where the gently caress was that when I was googling around for those pins? Looks like I can go with these pins, and these cotter rings. McMaster-Carr is your friend, particularly for any sort of mechanical project. Not sure if McMaster does any sort of SEO, so they probably aren't high up in the results. The best part is if you go to the main page, literally everything is a picture. If you don't know the name of the thing you're looking for, the pictures will guide you, and you just keep clicking on things until it narrows your search down to what you want. It's fantastic. And if you don't know what you NEED (like what type of material, etc.), then they offer pretty decent explanations for things. Only downside is it's a tad expensive, but really only compared to OEM pricing through non-public distributors. It's really not all that bad, and even equipment builders buy from them because they have things in stock and ship fast. Bonus is they have 2D and 3D drawings for pretty much everything in their catalog, if you're in to that sort of thing. neogeo0823 posted:Too bad I only need 8 sets of pins/rings, but 25/50 will last me for literal years of weird projects. Yup, that's the other downside. But, prices are so low for stuff like that where it's easy to justify. McMaster will have any spacers/washers/etc. you may need as well. Also, Misumi might be an option for harder to find configurations: https://us.misumi-ec.com/ I'm not remotely as familiar with that site, but I've heard others in my office talk about it a lot.
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May 19, 2021 13:48
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DaveSauce posted:McMaster-Carr is your friend, particularly for any sort of mechanical project. They really are; lots of useful poo poo that you can't find at your local Home Despot.
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May 19, 2021 15:36
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Plus you can buy lots of things like, say stub length 1/4" or jobber length 5/16" bits or extended length 3/8" drill bits, and they're all high quality made in the US ones, that are far superior to even the name brand made in China ones you'll find at a big box store. Shipping is fast as hell, but expensive and they won't tell you how much it's gonna be which is a rip.
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May 19, 2021 16:17
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Elviscat posted:Plus you can buy lots of things like, say stub length 1/4" or jobber length 5/16" bits or extended length 3/8" drill bits, and they're all high quality made in the US ones, that are far superior to even the name brand made in China ones you'll find at a big box store. Yeah I forgot about shipping cost. Usually when I get stuff there it's on the company's dime, so I never see that. That said, the biggest physical personal purchase I've made the shipping was like $8 on a $50 order, and that included a 12"x12" square of polycarbonate, so it wasn't like a tiny bag of fasteners or something. So maybe a 12x12x8 box or something, a few lbs at most. Last thing I ordered was a handful of 1"x1" L brackets and fasteners, and shipping was like $6. Granted that ended up being like 1/3 of the cost of that order, but for the time savings of finding exactly what you need in stock and shipped quickly it's totally worth it.
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May 19, 2021 16:44
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Worth noting that if you live near one of McMasters handful of distribution centers, you can order stuff and pick it up in person. Their NJ center is on my way home from work, saved me a couple bucks and shipping time on more than a few occasions.
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May 19, 2021 17:47
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McMaster delivers stuff to my lab same-day if it’s ordered early enough. They do big business supplying just-in-time widgets and whatsits.
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May 19, 2021 20:31
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Wooo! High score! Currently have all the upstairs windows open and a fan blowing air out of a basement window. Any other suggestions? The house is being sold for teardown fairly soon so I'm not going to put money into a remediation system, but I'd like to keep the level down for when we clear out the basement.
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May 19, 2021 23:59
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Rent a blower with flexible ducting, and put the suction ducting at a low point.
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May 20, 2021 00:34
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A month or two ago (as documented in this thread), I had a plumber replace the mixing valve in my downstairs shower because I was getting really bad hot water flow. That problem has now reoccurred. The upstairs shower remains fine in both cases. The work done by the plumber is still guaranteed for most of a year, so the obvious answer here is to just call them back in and have them fix it. But my dog is extremely bad with having contractors around, like constant barking, trying to destroy the door in his way, it's very stressful. How likely is this to be something that I can handle myself? I would guess that I need to shut the water off, disassemble the shower handle, remove the cartridge, find whatever damage or debris is getting in the way, fix that, and put it all back together. Any advice?
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May 20, 2021 01:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:A month or two ago (as documented in this thread), I had a plumber replace the mixing valve in my downstairs shower because I was getting really bad hot water flow. That problem has now reoccurred. The upstairs shower remains fine in both cases.
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May 20, 2021 01:41
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GWBBQ posted:That's all you need to do. Is hot water from other fixtures the right temperature? Yep. I've been using the upstairs shower since the downstairs one isn't working properly, and it's perfectly comfortable temperature-wise. It's just the size of a shoebox and has the shower nozzle at the perfect height for someone who's no more than 5'6" tall. And thanks, guess I know what project I'll be tackling this weekend.
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May 20, 2021 01:44
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yep. I've been using the upstairs shower since the downstairs one isn't working properly, and it's perfectly comfortable temperature-wise. It's just the size of a shoebox and has the shower nozzle at the perfect height for someone who's no more than 5'6" tall. edit: if you want to raise the showerhead upstairs, get one of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-11-in-S-Style-Shower-Arm-and-Flange-in-Brushed-Nickel-3075-514/204511140 GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 03:49 on May 20, 2021 |
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May 20, 2021 03:47
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Sometimes I idly wonder what the cheapest form of livable building is, is it a timber A-frame, a geodesic dome, one of those concrete over inflatable form buildings? Curious about it from the material rather than labour cost.
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May 20, 2021 18:21
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Crankit posted:Sometimes I idly wonder what the cheapest form of livable building is, is it a timber A-frame, a geodesic dome, one of those concrete over inflatable form buildings? Curious about it from the material rather than labour cost. Probably cob or rammed earth of some sort, but it depends a lot on what building materials are available locally as transport is a big part of the cost for low value-high bulk stuff
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May 20, 2021 18:25
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GWBBQ posted:Don't be afraid to post pictures if you're not sure of anything, and if you have any questions, I can walk you through it over voice or video and plenty of other people here could, too. Thanks! I think I could probably have handled the previous job myself, if it weren't for the fact that the old fixture was basically glued together by sediment. Which is surprising, as we don't have even remotely hard water here. But yeah, even the plumber had to break the old fixture to get it off the wall; it wouldn't disassemble cleanly. Now that there's a new one on there I'm hoping that maintenance will be easier. As for the upstairs shower, I'm aware of those products, but the shower's a cheap fiberglass thing and doesn't go all the way up the wall. I'm worried that if I raised the shower head, then I'd be spraying a lot of water onto the regular wall instead of the fiberglass. And while that should be a moisture-rated greenboard according to code, I've never had cause to check, and I'd rather not take the chance.
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May 20, 2021 18:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:A month or two ago (as documented in this thread), I had a plumber replace the mixing valve in my downstairs shower because I was getting really bad hot water flow. That problem has now reoccurred. The upstairs shower remains fine in both cases. Take your dog on a long walk? Seriously the best thing to do is use the warranty you paid for. How do you have other strangers in your home?
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May 21, 2021 01:26
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H110Hawk posted:Take your dog on a long walk? Seriously the best thing to do is use the warranty you paid for. How do you have other strangers in your home? This goon is Hank Hill, and Ladybird just doesn't like repairmen. Everyone else is fine.
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May 21, 2021 02:00
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We have floor vents that at the moment are only covered by basic metal grills that are easy to drop little objects through. From Googling the issue looks like getting some mesh screen might be a good solution, then to cut to size and attach with velcro tape. I wanted to check if that sounded like a good idea and wouldn't impede heat airflow. If that's not an awful idea, is there a recommended type of mesh? Probably would also need a type of scissors to cut it. Thanks!
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May 21, 2021 15:12
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Hyrax Attack! posted:We have floor vents that at the moment are only covered by basic metal grills that are easy to drop little objects through. From Googling the issue looks like getting some mesh screen might be a good solution, then to cut to size and attach with velcro tape. I wanted to check if that sounded like a good idea and wouldn't impede heat airflow. Fine mesh screen shouldn't be a problem, kinda like what you use on windows. Just make sure to keep them clean, change your air filters, etc, to prevent dust build up. Tin snips are probably the most correct, but "free with coupon" at hazard fraught are the ideal scissor for this. Don't use ones you care about. Certainly don't use your fabric scissors.
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May 21, 2021 18:08
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Hyrax Attack! posted:We have floor vents that at the moment are only covered by basic metal grills that are easy to drop little objects through. From Googling the issue looks like getting some mesh screen might be a good solution, then to cut to size and attach with velcro tape. I wanted to check if that sounded like a good idea and wouldn't impede heat airflow. Dropping things into the floor air vents was an important part of my childhood and I beg you to reconsider.
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May 21, 2021 18:11
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H110Hawk posted:Fine mesh screen shouldn't be a problem, kinda like what you use on windows. Just make sure to keep them clean, change your air filters, etc, to prevent dust build up. Tin snips are probably the most correct, but "free with coupon" at hazard fraught are the ideal scissor for this. Don't use ones you care about. Certainly don't use your fabric scissors. Thanks! That's good reminder that I'll need to clean them Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Dropping things into the floor air vents was an important part of my childhood and I beg you to reconsider. Lol
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May 21, 2021 18:36
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I was looking at the American Standard Cadet 3 toilet. It comes in both a pressure assisted (1.1gpf) and a non-pressure-assisted (1.6gpf). They both have the same 1000g flush rating, would it be correct to say that what pressure assist is getting you here is a reduction in water usage at the same flush rating? Is there any reason to prefer pressure-assist if you live in an area with plentiful water? I have well water+septic field if it matters.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:33 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 04:29
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Apologies if this is not the right place for this question. I’m happy to go elsewhere if there’s a better thread. My mom’s visiting this weekend for the first time in over a year. So of course, her upstairs sink burst somehow and flooded the house. Part of the upstairs floor has collapsed. She’s insured and wants to negotiate as successfully as possible with the insurance company. What should she do?
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May 22, 2021 20:32
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Steely Dad posted:Apologies if this is not the right place for this question. I’m happy to go elsewhere if there’s a better thread. Call them immediately and ask for help. Time is of the essence in mitigating the damage caused by the water. If no one picks up at the insurance claims line then call servpro or another mitigation company and tell them your insurance carrier and ask for help. They need to start today.
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May 22, 2021 21:06
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H110Hawk posted:Call them immediately and ask for help. Time is of the essence in mitigating the damage caused by the water. If no one picks up at the insurance claims line then call servpro or another mitigation company and tell them your insurance carrier and ask for help. They need to start today. Ya, this is good advice. There are one or two insurance related people on SA, hopefully one will pop into this thread soon. Getting the water out ASAP is important. Items that can't be saved go into a dumpster (drywall, insulation, etc.), everything else needs air flow. While running a consumer dehumidifier and such can't hurt if your mom has one, professional equipment is the only solution that will get the moisture out of the house before it becomes an unsolvable issue.
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May 22, 2021 21:19
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Get photos of everything. That'll help prove damage to the insurance company.
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May 22, 2021 21:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Dropping things into the floor air vents was an important part of my childhood and I beg you to reconsider. This.. time to go to grandmas house.. Hey that crayon is still there!
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May 22, 2021 21:52
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About to embark on my first real homeownership project, which is to paint a closet wall in our finished basement. Do we have a painting thread where I can make desperate pleas when I'm halfway through painting and realizing that I'm in over my head? Alternatively, what's the proper way to apply painter's tape around an outlet? I popped the covers off of the outlets in said closet, but am not sure if I just tape over the hardware or around the perimeter of the outlet.
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May 22, 2021 22:21
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C-Euro posted:About to embark on my first real homeownership project, which is to paint a closet wall in our finished basement. Do we have a painting thread where I can make desperate pleas when I'm halfway through painting and realizing that I'm in over my head? Fix any imperfections with spackle and a putty knife. Always remove outlet covers. Cut in your room corners, tops, bottoms and around outlets with a small brush. I like an angled 3” with a stubby comfortable handle. Try to brush in one direction. Don’t push back and forth into your work. Paint starts to dry faster than you think, but also takes longer to fully dry than you think. When everything is cut in, roll the rest. Buy nice rollers. The cheap ones shed hairs into your paint. The nicer ones will too, not as much. Start on one side of each field and maintain a wet edge. If you see a spot you missed earlier, resist the urge to touch it up until the coat has dried at least overnight. Painting takes practice and there are a lot of little tricks to getting good results. Watch some YouTube. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 22:32 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 22:28
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C-Euro posted:About to embark on my first real homeownership project, which is to paint a closet wall in our finished basement. Do we have a painting thread where I can make desperate pleas when I'm halfway through painting and realizing that I'm in over my head? If you've popped the covers off and you just have the metal frame of the outlet inside the drywall hole and the plugs themselves in the middle, I'd just throw some tape quickly over the plug faces and the screw heads and wouldn't worry about the rest. If you do start taping off the inside of the box for some reason be aware those are live wires unless you've turned the circuit breaker off. e: assuming this is basically what you're looking at: 
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 22:32 on May 22, 2021 |
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May 22, 2021 22:30
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Paint over all outlets and switches so they match the walls. Make sure to REALLY cake it on over screw heads to get paint into all of the nooks and crannies.
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May 22, 2021 23:35
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mutata posted:Paint over all outlets and switches so they match the walls. Make sure to REALLY cake it on over screw heads to get paint into all of the nooks and crannies. Swap to oversized outlet covers first so there’s no easy fix.
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May 23, 2021 00:01
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mutata posted:Paint over all outlets and switches so they match the walls. Make sure to REALLY cake it on over screw heads to get paint into all of the nooks and crannies. Just to be clear to the newbie, this is sarcastic advice given by someone who's had to deal with previous owners making bad painting decisions
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May 23, 2021 00:18
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