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I want to make a long, narrow and thin lightweight shelf, about 250cm long, 25cm deep and 2.5cm thick, supported in the back against the wall with a french cleat probably and at either end, but otherwise free floating, the load it'd be carrying would be mostly paperbacks so nothing insane in terms of load I was thinking the best way to construct it would be as torsion box and I'd be able to get the required thickness with 8mm and 6mm plywood as the top and bottom sheets and 11x36mm dimensional lumber as center grid would it be better/more rigid if the sheets were thinner and the grid thicker, say 4mm plywood sheets top and bottom 17mm thick wood for the center?
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May 25, 2021 15:34
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The Swinemaster posted:I think any soap will be fine - it will hit reset on their trails. Of course, if they can still come inside (and have a reason to) they will eventually do so. I paid $875 Canuckistanian shekels for a pro. That was for 3 visits and a one-year guarantee. For me, it was worth every penny. Getting bit on the neck by a carpenter ant sold me on it. Thanks for the responses. I've been trying everything the last couple of days and they just keep coming. I gave up and called the exterminator today because I saw some in 2 rooms I haven't yet and they are coming tomorrow.
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May 25, 2021 18:54
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I need to put up some simple shelves in the laundry room. How can I tell where the electrical wiring is before I discover it with the drill? The voltage detection function on the studfinder isn't showing me anything, and neither is a voltage pen, but I'm wondering if that's operator error because I'm pretty sure there's something back there.
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May 25, 2021 20:29
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Khizan posted:I need to put up some simple shelves in the laundry room. How can I tell where the electrical wiring is before I discover it with the drill? The voltage detection function on the studfinder isn't showing me anything, and neither is a voltage pen, but I'm wondering if that's operator error because I'm pretty sure there's something back there. Go try it out where you know there is electricity, like around an outlet.
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May 25, 2021 20:34
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Hed posted:What did you use to make those beautiful annotations? devicenull posted:The joints on the elbow that rotate are generally not air tight. Are you sure t's not leaking from there and just blowing up the side of the straight ducting? Oh I didn't know that. It COULD be blowing up the side of the straight ducting. Hard to tell since there's foil tape there. Hed posted:Yes, more turns of tape around the joint and feathered out is also my vote.
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May 25, 2021 23:34
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melon cat posted:Paint.NET! It's better than MS Paint but loads easier to use than Adobe Photoshop. It has a "line" tool that has a lot of customization options for color, thickness, dotted lines, arrowheads, etc. Do you smoke? Have an incense stick? Or anything else that can generate small amounts of smoke? It can help you trace out exactly where it's coming out. Otherwise I bet just going hog wild with tape will solve your problem. 
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May 25, 2021 23:38
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H110Hawk posted:Do you smoke? Have an incense stick? Or anything else that can generate small amounts of smoke? It can help you trace out exactly where it's coming out. Otherwise I bet just going hog wild with tape will solve your problem. That is one advantage of mastic - you just get a lovely $2 paint brush and go crazy with it anywhere you think there's a leak. I'd be surprised if your tape were somehow not air tight, even regular duct tape will block leaks for awhile. While you're up there next, that pipe strap holding the duct doesn't appear to be doing much with that giant U in it - that should be tight to the duct.
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May 26, 2021 01:04
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H110Hawk posted:Do you smoke? Have an incense stick? Or anything else that can generate small amounts of smoke? It can help you trace out exactly where it's coming out. Otherwise I bet just going hog wild with tape will solve your problem. Couldn't you just use the tire leak method of a spray bottle of water and a little dish soap?
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May 26, 2021 04:35
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couldcareless posted:Couldn't you just use the tire leak method of a spray bottle of water and a little dish soap? I was going to suggest that but I figured spraying soapy water on something you wanted to tape up after would be counter productive.
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May 26, 2021 11:08
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Speaking of soapy water I am not 100% certain the regulator on my grill isn't busted.
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May 26, 2021 16:32
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Is it ok to install a Ring type doorbell to the non-used door in a double door set up? I have a weird column that obstructs my view, so I was thinking about placing it on the non-dominant door itself since it's wireless. When I place the camera in position A, the wall takes up half of the camera. When I use C (I am using an angle wedge), it doesn't trigger the doorbell until it's too late. Would it be ok to just drill a pilot hole into the door and place it in position B? 
Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 22:53 on May 26, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 22:41
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I'd like to gently remind everyone that Ring will share all of your footage with the police and have even used it in their advertising without notifying customers: https://www.businessinsider.com/police-keep-amazon-ring-doorbell-videos-forever-2019-11 https://mashable.com/article/ring-halloween-surveillance/ Besides the general advice that it's a bad service, where you mount it shouldn't matter. If you get the battery powered cameras they can pretty much go anywhere that there's a wifi signal. The only concern I'd have about the mounting location is damage to the door and if you own it then you can make that decision. Also, if you have a storm door that will go outside of it I'd also check that the glass on that isn't reflective to infrared like a lot of window glass is, since at night it'll just bounce off the glass and blind the camera.
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May 26, 2021 23:11
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I thought I was so smart for skipping the Ring to get a Eufy, then the security breech happened. I guess no company can be trusted. At least I don't have cameras inside. I have a frame that comes down the middle (where the door latches), and I'm thinking about mounting the plate on that frame. I do not have any screen doors or storm doors, so it's just the wooden door. I was thinking I wouldn't have to worry about damaging the door if I drilled a pilot hole first. Are there any additional measures I should take to minimize the damage?
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May 26, 2021 23:25
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Wyze continues to be the least off-putting IoT company to me, but I mostly just have a couple exterior cams because people mess with our poo poo a couple times a year. I believe they have doorbells and other junk too, though. Edit: They're still IoT and therefore still gonna hand over your poo poo if asked, but you can also use them without a subscription and record locally and they're cheap. mutata fucked around with this message at 23:41 on May 26, 2021 |
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May 26, 2021 23:34
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Bioshuffle posted:I thought I was so smart for skipping the Ring to get a Eufy, then the security breech happened. I guess no company can be trusted. At least I don't have cameras inside. Don't have cameras inside that connect to a third party service unless you want unknown third parties (including the service itself, the police, and unaffiliated strangers) looking at the content. In the USA a simple warrant would get them all the access they need. See also: Rexxed posted:I'd like to gently remind everyone that Ring will share all of your footage with the police and have even used it in their advertising without notifying customers: Just don't.
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May 26, 2021 23:38
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I wonder what sort of data there is that shows the effectiveness of video doorbells or even full blown camera systems for deterrence of residential burglary or vandalism.
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May 27, 2021 02:17
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Years ago when I lived in a lovely part of town, having a very visible IP camera just meant that people put on masks before grabbing deliveries off my doorstep, so I took it down and started shipping stuff to a PO box. And I don't think package theft is exactly endemic to the suburban neighborhoods these cloud-connected IoT cameras are marketed to, so they're probably even more useless there except as nextdoor post bait. I know my house came with two and I pulled power to them and plan on removing them when I get around to working on the spots where they're installed.
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May 27, 2021 02:37
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We got ours because cars drive by and do poo poo, so I wanted video of the cars, but mostly because we have a neighbor who lets their untrained giant dog occasionally escape their backyard and she's charged us and gone after us before and if poo poo goes down I want evidence. They've had animal control called on them before (not by us, by other neighbors who have had encounters). The usual suburban nonsense, in other words. mutata fucked around with this message at 02:44 on May 27, 2021 |
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May 27, 2021 02:42
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Literally no one rings our doorbell, so the only way I know a package came or food got delivered is the Ring going off Also it is useful for scaring the poo poo out of you when a fox walks across the porch at 3:46 in the morning
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May 27, 2021 16:46
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Sash! posted:Also it is useful for scaring the poo poo out of you when a fox walks across the porch at 3:46 in the morning So it's as well loved as a smoke detector battery chirp, got it. At least the chirp serves a purpose.
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May 27, 2021 17:20
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I kinda like seeing the foxes. There's a lot of them!
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May 27, 2021 19:53
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We just got a door knocker. 
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May 27, 2021 20:32
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Khizan posted:I need to put up some simple shelves in the laundry room. How can I tell where the electrical wiring is before I discover it with the drill? The voltage detection function on the studfinder isn't showing me anything, and neither is a voltage pen, but I'm wondering if that's operator error because I'm pretty sure there's something back there. So after replacing the battery in the studfinder (  ) it started picking up wiring right where I thought it would be for the 110V outlet the washing machine is plugged into. However, it's not picking up anything near where I think the wiring should be for the 220V outlet for the dryer. The outlets are separated by a couple of stud bays, so I'm fairly sure they're not running down the same stud. After looking up the direction sheet for the studfinder(Zircon i520), it says that it is "intended only for use with an optimum voltage range of 110–127 V", so I'm wondering if it's just not picking up the 220V. How do I go about finding 220V wires behind the drywall? I've got a cheap borescope somewhere around here, do I just drill a hole through the drywall and take a look?
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May 27, 2021 22:45
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Khizan posted:So after replacing the battery in the studfinder ( Put it right on either side of your 220V outlet, or go find the flex conduit for your AC unit and test it out. Or the power cord for your dryer.
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May 27, 2021 22:49
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Khizan posted:So after replacing the battery in the studfinder ( Buy one of these. https://www.tenaquip.com/product/mi...ASABEgJLo_D_BwE
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May 28, 2021 00:45
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We're replacing the shutters and I've never done anything to the exterior of my house and I'm a little paranoid. The replacements should be the same size as the old ones. I should be able to just use the old holes right? They're currently mounted with metal screws. The new shutters came with both metal screws and plastic ones but they're like 3 inches long which seems excessive. Any hot tops?
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May 28, 2021 17:23
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H110Hawk posted:Fine mesh screen shouldn't be a problem, kinda like what you use on windows. Just make sure to keep them clean, change your air filters, etc, to prevent dust build up. Tin snips are probably the most correct, but "free with coupon" at hazard fraught are the ideal scissor for this. Don't use ones you care about. Certainly don't use your fabric scissors. Follow up question for a heating vent mesh to keep out loose objects, is fiberglass mesh fine? Was looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/ADFORS-Vent-Mesh-100-Charcoal/dp/B00IKVH7SY It looks fine for heat resistance, just wanted to make sure I’m not dumb for having air regularly go through it.
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May 30, 2021 01:24
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Stack Machine posted:I have an old garden shed. The roof is failing and caving in in places because it was never cleaned. The siding/sheathing plywood is rotting near the ground because moist leaves were up against it for years before I moved in. I'm replacing all the plywood, adding siding, and re-roofing it, but I wanted to address this decay issue in the framing: An update on this: repairing the frame was a nice dream but as soon as I removed the first section of sill plate I noticed just how bad all the rest of that sill and some of the studs were (not only were they brittle, some of them had just a perplexing number of ants living inside of them that would pour out if I tapped it with a hammer). So I'm just re-framing the whole thing using the old shed as a template.
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May 30, 2021 13:11
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Stack Machine posted:An update on this: repairing the frame was a nice dream but as soon as I removed the first section of sill plate I noticed just how bad all the rest of that sill and some of the studs were (not only were they brittle, some of them had just a perplexing number of ants living inside of them that would pour out if I tapped it with a hammer). So I'm just re-framing the whole thing using the old shed as a template. Would love to subscribe to this, I’m in the same boat but probably worse damage. I keep on wishing the shed could just be jacked up and the plate replaced but the whole thing really needs to go. We had a guy look at it last year and offer to remove and rebuild for $3500 and now we feel really drat stupid for not signing that contract.
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May 30, 2021 13:16
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Wife bought a ceiling fixture online for me to replace a boob light with. This is the light in question The mounting it comes with doesn't match a standard ceiling box so I'm left trying to figure out how this thing is supposed to be mounted or how I can rig something together to make it work. See pictures for the confusion    The housing is smaller than a standard 4" box so if I somehow figure out how to mount this thing, I'm gonna need to source a small medallion to put around it. The bracket the housing attaches to doesn't fit standard holes on a 4" box. This decidedly poorly thought out fixture just has 2 packets of screws with drywall anchors and some decorative machine screws to attach the brass housing to the bracket. I'm open to creative solutions, or even "You should probably toss that piece of junk"
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May 30, 2021 18:31
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Is replacing the box out of the question?
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May 30, 2021 18:40
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The Dave posted:Is replacing the box out of the question? I couldn't find any shallow boxes smaller than 4" but I would admit I didn't look super hard. I definitely would accept a smaller box, but with the ceiling joist being right there, I'd have to use a shallow one. Moving the opening is a possibility, but I'm not sure the slack situation on that run (likely not much if my tugging has indicated anything)
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May 30, 2021 18:43
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couldcareless posted:Wife bought a ceiling fixture online for me to replace a boob light with. This is the light in question That looks like a bracket designed to be used with drywall anchors. Did it come with a different one for the electrical box?
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May 30, 2021 19:44
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devicenull posted:That looks like a bracket designed to be used with drywall anchors. Did it come with a different one for the electrical box? Nope! Judging by the lack of any sort of documentation and the total lack of sensible hardware, this appears to be a pretty janky piece, but she got it for pretty cheap so I'm trying to make it work. I rigged up a jbox cover by drilling some extra holes and using some spare screws with matching nuts and teeth washers to attach the bracket then drilled a couple holes to feed the romex though (and sanded the edges a bit and taped up liberally). I'm gonna see if I can make this work for now and henceforth be labeled as the PO who made weird decisions. Now I'll have to find some sort of medallion situation that works but is closer to 5" or so Picture below for my handiwork 
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May 30, 2021 20:07
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Is it just supposed to go in a 3.5" box? https://www.homedepot.com/p/RACO-3-1-2-in-Round-Ceiling-Pan-1-2-in-Deep-with-NMSC-Clamps-25-Pack-8292/202058368
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May 30, 2021 20:44
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couldcareless posted:Wife bought a ceiling fixture online for me to replace a boob light with. This is the light in question I guessed the vendor before I clicked the link. Unless that company has strikingly modified their product line-up, the electricians I work with will not install those fixtures due to the build quality. I have had two client's insist on ordering them and both times they ended up in the dumpster. As of a year ago they ship directly from China and we never had any luck getting someone on the phone (I think they used to have a Hong Kong number somewhere?) for a refund/return.
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May 30, 2021 21:12
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Tezer posted:I guessed the vendor before I clicked the link. Unless that company has strikingly modified their product line-up, the electricians I work with will not install those fixtures due to the build quality. I have had two client's insist on ordering them and both times they ended up in the dumpster. Lol, I figured it was something like that. My jbox cover solution appears to be holding, it's not pretty but it works. Here's hoping my house doesn't burn down
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May 30, 2021 21:19
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I've cheaply acquired an old swingset. One of those larger cedar or redwood ones, thats got a 14 ft beam for the swings then a little double ladder/clubhouse/tree fort section. It might even be some kind of pine but I can't tell, its quite weathered with some generic red stain -  Anyway, a bunch of the smaller pieces need replacing, no big deal, the main beams are all ok. But there are some carpenter bee holes and minor splits I want to seal and repair. And the foot of the beams touching the ground are half rotted where they were buried in the soil. My thoughts are to do the following: 1) Power wash the thing clean 2) Sand it nice and smooth 3) Seal the surface with some kind of penetrating epoxy 4) Use bondo to fill in some of the minor splits and gaps 5) Cut out the rotten feet and replace with treat lumber doweled and then filling minor gaps there with more filler. 6) Sand filled areas 7) Prime and paint with exterior enamel paint. I think that would work ? My main concern is filling the voids and using something to penetrate and strengthen the wood after cleaning.
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May 31, 2021 00:35
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The Dave posted:Would love to subscribe to this, I’m in the same boat but probably worse damage. I keep on wishing the shed could just be jacked up and the plate replaced but the whole thing really needs to go. We had a guy look at it last year and offer to remove and rebuild for $3500 and now we feel really drat stupid for not signing that contract. Well it's, um progressing. 2 days in and half of the walls have been reframed and I'm about $2200 in for materials and tools for a 6x10 shed. The 3-day weekend will probably end with 4 walls framed and no sheathing or roofing up but we'll see.  We don't know what we're doing really but the idea is to take the walls down and renew them one by one so at any given time it's still a mostly-intact building that can hold itself up. This is the wall from the previous photo re-built from new 2x4s. I'll probably also do some carpenter ant mitigation since those seem to have been the main agent of rot (but it was constantly damp so it was going to be something).
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May 31, 2021 03:11
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I can't really tell, but is that a concrete slab foundation? If so, you'll want your bottom plate to be pressure-treated, otherwise it'll rot out from moisture.
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May 31, 2021 03:24
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