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BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

gay_crimes posted:

How does that even proceed without agreement on following the instructions?

It'll be my last e/n style post on the subject but the trick is to marry someone who immediately defers to their parents no matter how stupid the idea.

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biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


:psyduck:

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

I mean, I defer to my dad a lot on house stuff but that's because he has built or remodeled several houses and generally knows what he's talking about.

But seriously, with $500+ of materials on the line why would you cheap out on the loving mortar and half-rear end the installation? The difference between good and irredeemably lovely is in the prep for a lot of this type of work.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

El Mero Mero posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations on a ventless-all-in-one washer/dryer? I know these are a lot more common in europe, but I'm interested in building out a bunch of shelving in our laundry space and it seems that if they're not all garbage that it would be a no brainer solution. Also, I like the idea of taking a step out of that particular chore.
I have a portable washing machine that's also a spin dryer. It's great for my purposes (NYC apartment), but even though it could be plumbed in permanently, I don't think the drying is what you're looking for. Mine gets clothes to damp -- you couldn't possibly wring a drop out of it -- but you do need to hang them over the shower rod to finish drying completely. I don't know of any nonvented dryers that do a better job than that.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


PainterofCrap posted:

Some deductibles are for wind AND hail. Do you have a copy of your policy, or at least the partial that they send with the declarations page every year?

Or - PM me. I'm an insurance adjuster.

They corrected it. The wrong deductible was specifically for Hurricane Events, so i got my AOP and the check is in the mail.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jun 9, 2021

Bobulus
Jan 28, 2007

I wanna show off my bathroom renovation! This is the right thread, right?



Old vanity was water-damaged and (we think) rescued from some other location, because it had a bunch of drain and screw holes that didn't match the place of installation. New vanity is taller, wider, and deeper. Replaced a wall-mounted tri-fold mirror with a in-wall medicine cabinet. Swapped the 1963 toilet with a new one.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Bobulus posted:

Swapped the 1963 toilet with a new one.

low flow! *screeching boomer noises*

Sticky Date
Apr 4, 2009
Is this the right thread for sinks? Doing a kitchen reno and looking at the granite/quartz composite sinks, there are a lot of reviews about cracking and chipping, basically people having to baby them.

Any real world experiences?

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

BonerGhost posted:

Settle a dispute for me: my husband wants to be cute and mix up only part of a $30 bag of mortar for the $500+ we spent on tiles and material, and not back butter these 12" x 24" tiles because *-*reasons*-*

Seems pretty stupid to me but maybe I'm just concerned over nothing?

Everyone has covered most of this but…what are they saving the rest of the mortar for? Why not use it all?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Phil Moscowitz posted:

Everyone has covered most of this but…what are they saving the rest of the mortar for? Why not use it all?

That's a future husband problem.

The former bag of mortar, now a brick, will be used to brain him when the tile cracks and the job needs to be redone.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

El Mero Mero posted:

Does anyone have any recommendations on a ventless-all-in-one washer/dryer? I know these are a lot more common in europe, but I'm interested in building out a bunch of shelving in our laundry space and it seems that if they're not all garbage that it would be a no brainer solution. Also, I like the idea of taking a step out of that particular chore.

I have a Samsung ventless washer/dryer that works pretty good. No idea if it's better or worse than other brands (it came with the place) but it does both wash and dry clothes (and a bunch of other nonsense I never use). It is significantly slower at drying than a vented dryer though it's also a lot more energy efficient.

Anne Whateley posted:

I don't know of any nonvented dryers that do a better job than that.

They exist, they just take a while.

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad

Sticky Date posted:

Is this the right thread for sinks? Doing a kitchen reno and looking at the granite/quartz composite sinks, there are a lot of reviews about cracking and chipping, basically people having to baby them.

Any real world experiences?

Much like the old ceramic sinks, it's extremely easy to break glassware due to the hardness. Stainless is much more forgiving in that regard and I think better all-around.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Sticky Date posted:

Is this the right thread for sinks? Doing a kitchen reno and looking at the granite/quartz composite sinks, there are a lot of reviews about cracking and chipping, basically people having to baby them.

Any real world experiences?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-...1-CM1/206891069

The one I bought from Depot six years ago when I remodelled our kitchen was similar to this, but with a center drain.

It's been fine, no cracks or chips. I even drilled more holes (for a 3-hole faucet) no problem.

As noted, it is not as forgiving as stainless, so things dropped are at greater risk for breakage. The sink itself is perfect.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009

Bobulus posted:

I wanna show off my bathroom renovation! This is the right thread, right?



Old vanity was water-damaged and (we think) rescued from some other location, because it had a bunch of drain and screw holes that didn't match the place of installation. New vanity is taller, wider, and deeper. Replaced a wall-mounted tri-fold mirror with a in-wall medicine cabinet. Swapped the 1963 toilet with a new one.

Sorry to hijack your post, but would you care to say or take a picture of how your undermount sink is held and if your countertop sits directly on the cabinet or plywood? We're going through the same remodel and the installers are done but I don't know if I entirely trust their work; may just be me being harsher in my stuff but yours looks perfect so I can go back and argue with the installer about how to fix it.

For example, here's the mechanical clips used to hold the sink (came with the sink) which I don't think is correct (nor reliable) unless they're just in addition to epoxy:



I think the plywood might also be just acting as a riser to keep the countertop lip from blocking drawers, but should not be this tall:

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



PageMaster posted:

Sorry to hijack your post, but would you care to say or take a picture of how your undermount sink is held and if your countertop sits directly on the cabinet or plywood? We're going through the same remodel and the installers are done but I don't know if I entirely trust their work; may just be me being harsher in my stuff but yours looks perfect so I can go back and argue with the installer about how to fix it.

For example, here's the mechanical clips used to hold the sink (came with the sink) which I don't think is correct (nor reliable) unless they're just in addition to epoxy:

The clip system itself is fine, but using drywall screws is a hard "no"; they are not designed for shear loads like that. If you can, drill pilot holes near the inner end of the bracket loop (mark the depth on the drill bit with tape, go in about 1/4") and get good steel wood screws along with washers.

And yes, there should be adhesive caulk applied around the perimeter of the sink's contact surface.

PageMaster posted:

I think the plywood might also be just acting as a riser to keep the countertop lip from blocking drawers, but should not be this tall:
I'd rather have the 3/4" plywood and that gap (which can only be seen by house pets and 2-year-olds) than a thinner top surface.

Bobulus
Jan 28, 2007

No worries! We got the vanity and the countertop/sink separately, so we put them together ourselves.

(Warning: We just did what seemed right, we could be totally wrong in how we did this)

For attaching the countertop to the vanity, the vanity had these corner-mounted plastic pieces:



If you look carefully, they have little tabs that sit on top of the plywood walls of the vanity. This meant that when the countertop was placed on the vanity, those tabs acted as spacers that prevented the countertop from coming in contact with the vanity plywood. We just put some silicone caulk on the edge of the vanity top and inside those plastic pieces, and gently set the countertop on top. It was solidly secure in short order. Caulking the side-splash and back-splash to the wall could only help.

tl;dr, there is a small space between countertop and cabinet, but it's due to the cabinet, not the countertop.


I don't have a picture of the underside of the sink handy, but it's basically caulked into place to the underside of the countertop. Just, like, a shitload of caulk. An excess. I didn't do this. It came like that. No clips or anything like that.

PageMaster
Nov 4, 2009
Thanks! It sounds like the epoxy/caulk is the way a lot of people do it. My mind just can't wrap around the idea of it being strong enough to just 'glue' the sink to the countertop, but checked online after seeing yours and Painter's post and I guess it's not crazy.

I can probably just add the wood screws myself if I have enough finesse to be extra safe (I'll follow up in a week about how I somehow destroyed my counter trying to do this).

PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jun 9, 2021

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
I now have a new water heater, a water softener, and a few thousand less dollars. Feels good, that 18 year old water heater was making me nervous and we have pretty drat hard water so hopefully that's a nice quality of life improvement.

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


Final Blog Entry posted:

Feels good, that 18 year old water heater was making me nervous and we have pretty drat hard water so hopefully that's a nice quality of life improvement.

Happy are those whose walls already rise basements don’t flood while they try to run down the clock on their water heater.

iv46vi
Apr 2, 2010

Bobulus posted:

I wanna show off my bathroom renovation! This is the right thread, right?



Old vanity was water-damaged and (we think) rescued from some other location, because it had a bunch of drain and screw holes that didn't match the place of installation. New vanity is taller, wider, and deeper. Replaced a wall-mounted tri-fold mirror with a in-wall medicine cabinet. Swapped the 1963 toilet with a new one.

You should also get a warm bidet seat from Costco* and welcome yourselves to the 2021.

* Because Costco will take them back in a month if you don’t like it, but you will.

Vintersorg
Mar 3, 2004

President of
the Brendan Fraser
Fan Club



I didnt put my eaves troths down and it's raining all day. Thank god for a new sump pump!

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Does anyone have a good medicine cabinet that I can put between two mirrors in my master bath? Ideally i'd like it to open vertically or slide side to side so that either side has equal access.

Should be less than 20"W x 29"H, depth is flexible but the mirrors are 2" deep w/ their frames.

There's a drat stud right between the mirrors, because there's an outlet mounted, as far as i can tell. Good for surface mount, bad for cutting into the wall and flush setting it.

I could take the mirrors down or adjust them, but I really don't want to.

Edit: Alternately I could do a regular cabinet between the two that sits on the vanity surface, but i'd have to notch the back bottom to sit against the backsplash.
Edit Edit: I could replace both mirrors with surface mount mirror cabinets, but now i'm buying two things?
Edit Edit Edit: Why the _fuck_ are medicine cabinets so expensive?

Deviant fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jun 10, 2021

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000



Ultra Carp
eh, cut through the stud if you want. You probably have plenty more in that wall

I can't believe there's no "yolo" smiley, I was gonna end this post with one. What an oversight

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Vim Fuego posted:

eh, cut through the stud if you want. You probably have plenty more in that wall

I can't believe there's no "yolo" smiley, I was gonna end this post with one. What an oversight

I really don't want to do all the work of framing that out, particularly not when i have electrical running to it. I'd rather just do two surface mount cabinets to replace the mirrors if the center option isn't viable.

Edit: For these goddamn prices i'm about to just mount a set of floating shelves.

Deviant fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Jun 10, 2021

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
I posted a while ago about my new fridge not cooling to the right temp. Had a tech come out today and said it seems like it’s low Freon and may have a small leak. They will order a part and then come back in a week or so to fix it. We bought this fridge to replace one that had a leak. :bang:

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

slave to my cravings posted:

I posted a while ago about my new fridge not cooling to the right temp. Had a tech come out today and said it seems like it’s low Freon and may have a small leak. They will order a part and then come back in a week or so to fix it. We bought this fridge to replace one that had a leak. :bang:

If your sealed system is doa from the factory I would be pushing for complete replacement. Those systems shouldn't leak for at least a decade.

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
Good to know thanks. I got it from Costco so I have at least another 75 days or so to return it. Just don’t think I would be able to get a same fridge replacement from them at least because everything keeps going out of stock. I’ll wait a week to see what the options are. Why do all modern fridges suck rear end.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Klein tools has a recall on one of their volt testers. Don't shock yo'self.

https://www.kleintools.com/recall/ncvt1

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
We have a cracked floor joist in the basement of our 90 year old house. It's cracked through a knot in the board, and I don't think there are any unusual loads right above it, it's near the wall in the dining room. No bits carved out of it nearby. Should I get a structural engineer out to inspect and make a set of suggestions before involving a general contractor?

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Danhenge posted:

We have a cracked floor joist in the basement of our 90 year old house. It's cracked through a knot in the board, and I don't think there are any unusual loads right above it, it's near the wall in the dining room. No bits carved out of it nearby. Should I get a structural engineer out to inspect and make a set of suggestions before involving a general contractor?

You can if you want, but the typical repair is to sister the joist with an equivalently sized piece of dimensional lumber.

Is the joist obviously sagging in that spot?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Danhenge posted:

We have a cracked floor joist in the basement of our 90 year old house. It's cracked through a knot in the board, and I don't think there are any unusual loads right above it, it's near the wall in the dining room. No bits carved out of it nearby. Should I get a structural engineer out to inspect and make a set of suggestions before involving a general contractor?

How fresh is the crack? Is the wood bright and new inside the crack or has it been there for 40 years? Pictures?

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

slave to my cravings posted:

Why do all modern fridges suck rear end.

It's a combination of chasing maximum energy efficiency and lowest cost possible.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

How fresh is the crack? Is the wood bright and new inside the crack or has it been there for 40 years? Pictures?

Looks pretty old to me but I'm not an expert. It's tough to get a good photo in there with the way the lighting is:



So there's like a vertical-ish crack that's been there forever and some smaller horizontal cracking going in either direction. I'm sure there's at least one other horrible thing happening in that photo and a half dozen code violations but I'm dealing with these problems as they come.

Re: B-nasty's question I think there's some sagging you can see at the bottom of the crack.

EDIT: That hanging ground wire in the back used to be connected to the electric box. It's still connected to the piping and stapled to the joist, the part that was formerly inside the electrical box is now hanging. There's a ground rod outside in its place.

edit2: replaced the original image with one that has more clear markings

Danhenge fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jun 10, 2021

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Looks old and non-worrying to my untrained eye outside of just how dang close to the wall it is. As the B-Nasty said - Grab a piece of PT dimensional that matches (an off cut will do, it just has to hit the wall and extend out past the horizontal crack) and a box of correct screws. Screw a piece onto both sides with far more screws than you think. 100% DIY-able if you can get the wood in there yourself. Couple clamps can hold it in place until you get it started. There is probably something you can use to affix it to the horizontal piece next to it from Simpson to gain additional strength.

Again, I'm a computer nerd not an engineer.

Google for "sister joist hanger" got me this persons site: See that hanger that's in the middle joist on the left? That's what I would slap on there.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jun 10, 2021

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

H110Hawk posted:

Looks old and non-worrying to my untrained eye outside of just how dang close to the wall it is. As the B-Nasty said - Grab a piece of PT dimensional that matches (an off cut will do, it just has to hit the wall and extend out past the horizontal crack) and a box of correct screws. Screw a piece onto both sides with far more screws than you think. 100% DIY-able if you can get the wood in there yourself. Couple clamps can hold it in place until you get it started. There is probably something you can use to affix it to the horizontal piece next to it from Simpson to gain additional strength.

Again, I'm a computer nerd not an engineer.

Our inspector noted it in the inspection and said that he didn't think it was a near term problem, so we didn't ask for it to get repaired. But I'd still like to get it taken care of. Thanks!

Sam Hall
Jun 29, 2003

Huh, my mom's 40 year old fridge just caught on fire and some of its working parts melted. That doesn't seem like the kind of thing fridges are usually supposed to do.

Think I'm gonna need to get her a new one; anybody know if there are any fridge brands that ain't complete dogshit currently?

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

Danhenge posted:

We have a cracked floor joist in the basement of our 90 year old house. It's cracked through a knot in the board, and I don't think there are any unusual loads right above it, it's near the wall in the dining room. No bits carved out of it nearby. Should I get a structural engineer out to inspect and make a set of suggestions before involving a general contractor?

I doubt yours failed this same way but lulz at this engineering design.

https://youtu.be/23amU7EWy7g

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


Sam Hall posted:

Huh, my mom's 40 year old fridge just caught on fire and some of its working parts melted. That doesn't seem like the kind of thing fridges are usually supposed to do.

Think I'm gonna need to get her a new one; anybody know if there are any fridge brands that ain't complete dogshit currently?

I like my Kenmore branded LG and it's linear compressor.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

put in my new bathroom light (definitely with help)! turned that poo poo on and it was like chevy chase christmas lights scene, so I put on a dimmer

also I can't believe I got this fucker out, but I did. Unfortunately I have no idea how to get the extractor tool out of the old drain in case I need it again!

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Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

falz posted:

I doubt yours failed this same way but lulz at this engineering design.

https://youtu.be/23amU7EWy7g

Watching this made me curious since I have a similar looking basement except that it's brick all the way down. It's in bad need of repointing, which is another problem we need to solve soon-ish. We similar-ish joints between the floor joists and the...crossbeams? I don't know the right term. Except the cutout for the joists is maybe 1/6th the total depth at most, so I assume it's probably not going to an issue in the same. I also have some of those diagonal beams between joists for sharing the load. I've been wondering what those were! Anyway, I looked at the other end of the same joist where the notch was is and it looks crack-free to me so it seems like it's the old beam.

If I want to sister new dimensional lumber on, it doesn't require any jacking of the old cracked beam to make it level? I think the potential need to jack the old joist is what concerns me the most about the whole process.

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